Alpine Club of • Vancouver Section News September - October 2013

Swiss Summer Excursion 2013 JOIN US AS MEMBERS OF THIS SUMMER’S SECTION EXCURSION TO presentationTuesday, S byeptEMBER 24th SWITZERLAND (& A BIT OF FRANCE) JOHN BALDWIN7:30 PM

Meeting is in the floral hall at vandusen gardens, west 37th and oak, vancouver executive Chair Rob Brusse 604 732 7730 vice-chair “Mountains are not stadiums where I Caroline Clapham 604 351 7149 satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the Secretary cathedrals where I practice my religion.” Aimee Schalles 604 848 4134 - Anatoli Boukreev Treasurer Travis McClinchey 604 760 9276 Activities Chair Cam Miller 778 389 1519 acc VANCOUVER SECTION Camps Coordinator Announcements The club meets monthly, usually for Lynn Erickson 604 224 4883 a slide presentation, at the Floral Courses Coordinator New home needed for the Vancouver Section Library Hall in VanDusen Gardens, W 37th Martin Siegert 778 918 3639 Do you have some free wall space or shelf space available for the and Oak St., at 7:30 PM on the fourth Access & Environment Vancouver Section’s collection of mountain books? We have about Tuesday of the month, except in David Overall 778 989 3295 July, August and December. 200 of them... picture books, travelogues, guidebooks, and technique books. The Section is looking for a volunteer who can house the www.accvancouver.ca Quarter Master Bill Sims 604 734 8870 books, keep them clean and in order, and make them available (by [email protected] appointment) to the occasional visitor. Shelving can be provided, Mailing address: Programs Coordinator if need be. A central location in Greater Vancouver would be ideal ACC Vancouver Section, Marie Cummings 604 669 7289 for accessibility. Just think of all the wonderful reading material at c/o Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Membership your fingertips! If this could be you, please contact Liz Scremin at: 130 W Broadway, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1P3 Tony Knight 604 873 2276 T: 604-921-2651; email: [email protected] ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP DUES web administrator Single $ 41 / $ 51 * Kayla Stevenson 604 619 7978 Attention all past Vancouver Section Executive: Family $ 61 / $ 71 * We’re looking for Vancouver Section records Junior (under 18) $ 31 / $ 41 * Newsletter Editor * Includes postal delivery of the Bethan Lewis 604 710 6659 The archivists are asking all past Vancouver Section executive members (all positions and all years) to review their belongings Avalanche Echoes NEWSLETTER designer and consider donating back to the Section any records pertaining NATIONAL ACC OFFICE Iwona Erskine-Kellie 604 351 4891 to the Section. As an example, these records might be executive For new memberships and renewals, ALpin-E-R editor minutes, correspondence, financial statements, membership changes of address or other details, Steven Legault 604 353 1159 and booking huts, contact the ACC information, hut records, or copies of photographs of social events. National office directly. News & Upcoming Events The Section is trying to put its ‘house in order’ and assemble a full Karen Jensen 604 536 0075 record of our history. Please contact Liz Scremin at: T: 604-921-2651; www.alpineclubofcanada.ca email: [email protected] [email protected] National Club Rep 403-678-3200, 403-678-3224 (fax) Rob Brusse 604 732 7730 Woodbury and Silverspray cabins open for business P.O. Box 8040 Canmore, AB, T1W 2T8 FMCBC Rep David Overall 778 989 3295 BC Parks have now completed repairs on the road leading to the THE AVALANCHE ECHOES Woodbury and Silverspray Cabins in Kokanee Glacier Provincial is the official publication of committees + special projects Park. To book the cabins, contact the ACC by phone (403) 678-3200, the , Best of Banff committee ext. 0 or by email. Vancouver Section. Rob Brusse 604 732 7730 Volume 102 • Issue no. 4 • Sept 2013 John Lauchlan Memorial Award Camps Committee Editor: Bethan Lewis, 604-710-6659 Lynn Erickson 604 224 4883 The John Lauchlan Memorial Award provides cash and gear for [email protected] Rob Brusse 604 224 0747 Canadian alpinists who are planning a trip that involves pushing SUBMISSIONS new boundaries at an internationally recognized level. Many of We encourage submissions of Tantalus And Haberl Hut Booking Canada's top alpinists have used the award in the past to put up Ron Royston 604 921 8164 writing (txt, rtf and doc formats), new routes in Patagonia, Alaska, northern Canada, Greenland, Peru, photography and drawings (jpg, tif, Haberl Hut Committee Nepal, India, China, Pakistan and Tibet. The deadline for application png). Email your submission or call Liz Scremin (acting) 604 921 2651 is September 30 each year. Apply for the award or become a sponsor the editor. Deadline is the 20th day Archives Committee at johnlauchlanaward.com of the previous month. Liz Scremin 604 921 2651 ADVERTISING Irene Goldstone 604 689 8737 Sonnie Trotter climbs hardest multi-pitch in Canada Advertising shall be accepted at the Pro-climber and instructor Sonnie Trotter completed a new route discretion of the editor. All advertis- Socials & refreshments on in the Rockies on Labour Day weekend. At ing shall be for products or services Olga Turok 604 228 0628 five pitches long, he has graded it at 5.14a and named it “Castles of direct interest to our membership. promotions in the Sky”. Gripped reporter Brandon Pullan likens it to “hanging Jay MacArthur 604 987 1232 EDITORIAL POLICY around on El Cap, with the valley floor 1,500m below.” Read more at: Suitability for publication is at Endowment Fund http://gripped.com/2013/09/sections/news/trotter-sends-castle- the editor’s discretion within the Rob Brusse 604 224 0747 mountain-project. guidelines of the Section Executive. Articles may be edited for clarity or WebSite Committee to fit the available space. Richard Keltie 604 738 4583 Tony Knight, Kayla Stevenson In Memoriam: Peter Almerling Sadly, we share the loss of avid ACC and BCMC member, Peter Almerling.

Peter was critically injured in a skiing as if he was headed to a board meeting: he accident on July 7, 2013, on Mount Rainier, did his research, he read books, he studied and succumbed to his injuries on July 11, maps, he asked lots of questions, he studied 2013. He is survived by his wife, Estelle the night before - and he showed up early, and three children Alyssa, 11, Sofia, 9, and prepared and ready to take on anything. Our Aidan, 3. conversations ranged from the best way to coil a rope, to the best waterproof materials According to BCMC member, Brittany, on for specific outdoor conditions, to cost the weekend ski trip that was Peter's last, accounting, to world politics, to the merits he summited Mt Rainier. One fellow trip of carb-free diets. He was passionate about participant noted, "he was really happy to everything." be on the trip and boy was he happy to have gotten to the summit". On the ski descent, ACC member David Ferrante shares more trip Peter caught an edge, and was unable to memories: "I partnered with Peter in the top self-arrest. rope course in April and shared a tent with him on Seymour for basic . Valiant rescue efforts were made by fellow What struck me about him was how BCMC members and climbing rangers. They genuinely interested he was in hearing about were able to, with the help of a U.S. Army people’s experiences, history or anything Reserve Chinook helicopter, air lift him off they had to say really. Absolutely a great the mountain the same day. Peter never woke guy with a great laugh, a great disposition up from the traumatic injuries suffered in and an honest pleasure to be around. He will his fall. He went on to save other lives as an certainly be missed and remembered." organ donor. Deon Molloy, a joint ACC-BCMC member, ACC member Alex Armitage recalls Peter’s has set up a “Donations Account” at TD for vibrant nature. “He was as keen to be people who wish to make an anonymous outdoors as he was to be working hard for donation to Peter’s family. As Deon says, his company and to be with his family. From “our community, as small as we may seem, is the moment I first met Peter, I realized he capable of big things, more selfless than our was outspoken, passionate, curious and personal objectives.” generous. He offered free and valuable accounting advice in exchange for climbing Branch #91940 Photos by: Gina Hopper & Grant Pearse and mountaineering tips - and occasionally Account #5242657 ------some gas money. (More often than not he refused the money). Name - Peter Almerling Fundraiser AVALANCHE ECHOES FRONT COVER: “Peter prepared for trips to the mountains - Matterhorn north face and Hornli Ridge, by Amir A. Khanlou.

Upcoming social s 24 September 2013 Swiss Summer Excursion 2013 Join us as members of this summer’s Section excursion to Switzerland and France recount & illustrate their recent experiences in the Bernese Oberland, tackling the Monch, Jungfrau & Eiger. Hear about Amir & Eva’s exciting ascent from the Mittelegi Hut on the Eiger and their even more exciting descent; travel to Chamonix for ascents of Mt Blanc & other peaks in the region and finally take a train to Zermatt for accounts of an ascent (& bivi) of the Matterhorn, a great day on the Dufourspitze, of Monte Rosa (highest peak in Switzerland), some hiking - and a little Parapenting to keep things interesting.

3 • Avalanche Echoes • September - October 2013 BASIC MOUNTAINEERING COURSE (BM1) - 2013 Words: Julien Simon Photos: Julien Simon, Iwona Erskine-Kellie

I joined the Alpine Club of Canada - Vancouver Section because I was very interested in one course in particular: Basic Mountaineering 1. MOUNTAINEERS VS SPARTAN RACERS The course took place during the first two weekends of June on Mt. Seymour and Mt. Matier, with the option of an extra weekend spent in We hiked up Mt Seymour on June 1st, our trip coinciding with the Squamish learning the basics of rock climbing for those who needed Vancouver Spartan Race. The start of the expedition saw 25 plus it. hikers in full mountaineering gear with heavy backpacks walking alongside Spartan Racers who were more scantily kitted out in Our group was a friendly bunch with varying skill levels from first tim- shorts, t-shirts and running shoes while they navigated their ob- ers to fairly experienced. The instruction we received was awesome stacle course. Quite the contrast. with a ratio of four students to every skilled leader. We camped near the top of Seymour and practiced ascending Set up to give us a taste of mountaineering, the Seymour weekend steep slopes using an ice axe, building snow anchors, boot skiing allowed us to familiarize ourselves with the all gear as we practiced (fun!), self-arrest using an ice axe in case of a fall, hiking in rope drills. It was very helpful to learn how to use crampons, ice axes and teams and more. It was a great weekend that prepared us well for staying warm but not too warm - and keeping our feet dry! Mt. Matier.

Avalanche Echoes • September - October 2013 • 4 SELF-ARRESTING FOR REAL During the descent, two people on my rope team tripped and start- ed to slide down but managed to self-arrest themselves while other three jumped into self-arrest position themselves to stop them if needed. It was nice to see that the drills worked and that a team of novice mountaineers was so quick to react to this situation. Credits BRING ON MATIER to the great instructors! Next came the ascent of Mt Matier, a 2,783m peak in Joffre Lakes Back at the hut, we packed everything up and made our way down, Provincial Park, near Pemberton. We hiked up on the Saturday to reaching the parking lot around 6pm. A long day but very fulfilling. Keith’s hut. The hike was pleasant and we made good time. We set We left with beautiful scenery in mind and a stomach full of cereal up camp and had more time to practice snow anchors and bars, looking forward to a burger and beers in Whistler. rescue. BM1 was a truly fantastic experience... I can't wait for the next moun- At 4am the following morning we set off, to take advantage of firm taineering adventure! snow. We reached a small plateau at the northeast base of Joffre Peak known as “Motel 66” around 5am where we roped up in teams of five and applied sunscreen. It was an awesome opportunity to enjoy a spectacular sunrise and take pictures while the different rope teams were getting ready. We crossed the Anniversary Glacier on avalanche remains and took a quick break at the top of that section to enjoy the scenery some more, eat a quick snack and put on our crampons. The last part of the hike up was very steep and we summited Mt. Matier at around 10am after crossing a very narrow ridge. After a 15 minute break at the top spent enjoying the view and taking more pictures, we start- ed the descent to make room for other rope teams on the narrow ledge. The conditions of the hike were nearly perfect as firm snow and a clear blue sky made for a smooth descent.

5 • Avalanche Echoes • September - October 2013 Mount Victoria – 2013 Words & Photos by: Mandana Amiri

The week long ACC trip to Lake O’Hara at in August 2013 was absolutely spectacular! Our group was a compatible mix Next morning, we set off at 5am in and the weather for the most part three rope teams, with help from co-operated, enabling us to do some our support team. Flagging that climbing on Shaeffer, Wiwaxy, Yuk- we’d placed earlier made for an ness, Little Odaray, and easy travel up to the ridge where we Mount Victoria. watched the sun rising, and the val- Before ascending Mount Victoria’s ley and Chateau lighting south summit (3,464m), we hiked up up in the morning glow. to the Abbot Pass Hut. We hit the Continuing along the ridge, with trail to Lake Osea, arriving at the on our left, we all pass within four hours after passing agreed that despite the cloud cover through the tricky scree slope and and high winds at times, the weath- easier snow band. On the pass, the er was alright to continue. The snow views of surrounding peaks includ- coverage was quite bare so we only ing were stunning, needed crampons for a short section although the sound of falling rocks of icy snow traverse, and we placed constantly buzzing in our ears re- protection for a couple of sections. minded us that we were in a more We were the last rope team to hit serious mountain zone. the summit at 11am. The return was At just under 3000m, the hut was long but smooth travel. well equipped with foams and blan- In summary it was a rewarding climb kets. We spent a cozy evening with with gorgeous colorful view of the good food, good laughs, and a mys- . tery to solve about a missing choco- late bar...

Avalanche Echoes • September - October 2013 • 6 ACC Lake O'Hara Camp

A bus to the shelter Twenty four in the crew Weather sunny and warm Skies a radiant blue.

Two huts in the meadow With kitchen and bunk The packs were unloaded Then off for some fun.

Schaffer, Odaray, and Yukness These peaks all nearby Huber and Victoria Reaching the sky.

Lakes adorning the landscape Blue, green, grey, shimmering Water from the glaciers Occasional skinny dipping.

Marmots and picas Wolves visiting one night Lightning, constellations All within sight.

Climbing and hiking Catered food at its best A diverse group together Melding knowledge and interest.

Lake O’Hara in Yoho A gem of a place A playground for all of us A magical space. REIGNING VICTORIOUS

Thanks to all participants For this seven-day home This camp will be remembered For many years to come.

Thank you! Marian Jans

Photos by: Iwona Erskine-Kellie 7 • Avalanche Echoes • September - October 2013 Mount Victoria – a retrospective

Words by: Ian Ross It had been almost 40 years since I last attempted Mount Photos by: Iwona Erskine-Kellie Victoria and I’d been thinking about our attempt back in the early 1970s and particularly about the changes in gear and mental attitude.

The harnesses of that era essentially turned people from coming off the ridge. you upside down in a fall. I decided to leave I have not heard if in fact this was ever a suc- mine at home. Most people merely tied the cessful manoeuvre or just a myth to keep ev- rope a few times around their waists and eryone cheerful. My partner and I discussed hoped for the best. The axim that ‘the leader the possibilities and decided it was time to does not fall’ was part of the mindset. Cram- turn back. A good decision based on the con- pons were a pain in the neck and balled up ditions of the sickle and our experience level with snow very easily making them danger- at that time. ous in mixed conditions. The conditions on the sickle in 2013 were When we attempted Victoria back then, we quite different. The snow and ice wall, pre- used a fairly heavy 11mm nylon rope, which sumably generated in winter and early although was dynamic, stretched very little spring by the strong updraft winds on both in comparison to our modern ropes. A good sides of the mountain, had disappeared. fall would loosen up most of your tooth fill- What remained was a (fairly wide) rounded ings. ridge with a little ice and mostly snow. This It was to be a number of years later before huge difference in conditions, along with I climbed with a helmet. our modern gear meant that once past the sickle, each group made good time to the As people talk about the route on Victoria, summit. the section known as the ‘sickle’ usually is brought up. The sickle is normally the crux On this summer’s trip, although the weather of the climb on Victoria. It is a semi-circular cooperated, the wind did get our attention. ridge of ice and snow with very exposed On certain parts of this shattered ridge, drops either side. When we tried Victoria gusts were close to 50 km/hr. 40 years ago, it stopped us in our tracks. As ever, the mountain was reminding us to If someone fell, the other person had to pay attention and take nothing for granted. launch off to the other side to prevent both

Avalanche Echoes • September - October 2013 • 8 climbing Words: Jay MacArthur Photos: Jay MacArthur & Martin Naroznik Participants: Robie Reid Daniel Friedmann, Martin Naroznik and Jay MacArthur (leader)

20m before traversing up to a flatter spot Robie Reid (2,095m) had been on my list for end of the lake after hiking the new trail on where we could descend to more snow. about 35 years and I finally climbed it in the east side. From there it was just under From there it was a pretty easy walk to the July 2013. One of the highest peaks on the 1500m up a very steep section to the top of false summit (with a radio tower) and then north side of the Fraser Valley, it’s located the hiking trail. Even if you’re not a climber a short class 3 scramble to the true summit. in Golden Ears Provincial Park. The access it’s worth doing this to see the tarns and the used to require a boat or canoe to get to view. It took nine hours for the “old-guys” to reach the trail head and I was interested to read From the top of the ridge, an indistinct trail the summit and seven hours down. A high- last year that Jeff Hann had led a trip up it headed west to a snowfield and gullies that light was a swim in Allouette Lake at sunset. on a new trail that started at the end of a led to the climb. At Dan’s suggestion we logging road close to the north end of Al- took the first gully on the left, since he had louette Lake. After a bit of research on the tried unsuccessfully on another one further internet I found a trail description in Club up. We needed an ice axe on the snow and Tread (http://www.clubtread.com/Routes/ a short rope to get over a tricky spot. Don’t Route.aspx?Route=1103) and on the Maple forget your helmet since the rock is loose in Ridge rescue team’s website. the gully. If you look closely you might see We drove to the end of the road on Friday some slings part-way up - thanks to Martin night for a 4:30am start the following morn- for leading the chimney. ing. It took about an hour to get to the north From the top of the gully, we dropped down

9 • Avalanche Echoes • September - October 2013 Upcoming Socials & Courses

Crevasse Rescue – Dry School Tuesday September 17, 2013 (BCIT climbing wall at the BCIT Burnaby Campus) This evening course introduces participants to Prussik practice and building various pulley systems used in crevasse rescue.

Technology in the Backcountry Tuesday September 24, 2013 (Floral Hall, Van Dusen Gardens) Do you want to get more out of your smart phone or GPS on trips? Already an expert and have knowledge or tips to share? Join the ACC Vancouver for this interactive workshop featuring discussion around: Upcoming Trips & Socials •GPS: downloading maps, entering waypoints, tracking prog- Sat Sept 21-22, 2013 – – North Nesakwatch Spire (Dif- ficult) ress, posting trip results Tue Sept 24 2013 – Social – Swiss Summer Excursion 2013 (Easy) •Apps: Weather, navigation, GPS & more Tue Oct 1 2013 - Skiing – Group purchase discount option for skiing •Data-less apps for tablets on Cypress Mountain (Easy) Come for the workshop, stay for the pizza ($2/slice). Sat Oct 5, 2013 – hiking – Mt. Barbour hike and fish (Difficult) Pre-registration is a MUST. Sat Oct 5 - 6, 2013 – Scrambling – Welch and Foley Peaks (Difficult) Fri Oct 11 – 13, 2013 – Scrambling – Downton Creek Basin (Moder- ate) Swiss Summer Excursion 2013 Sat Oct 19, 2013 – Scrambling – Ashlu Mountain (Difficult) September 24, 2013 Wed Dec 4, 2013 – Skiing – Skimo Training/ Race Series (Easy) (Floral Hall, Van Dusen Gardens) Fri Dec 13 – 16, 2013 – Skiing – Marriott Basin/ Wendy Thompson Hut Join us as members of this summer’s Section excursion to Swit- Wed Dec 18, 2013 - Skiing - Skimo Training/Race Series (D1: Easy) zerland and France recount & illustrate their recent experiences Wed Jan 8 2014 – Skiing – Skimo Training/ Race Series (Easy) in the Bernese Oberland, tackling the Monch, Jungfrau & Eiger. Hear about Amir & Eva’s exciting ascent from the Mittelegi Hut Fri Mar 7, 2014 - Skiing - Campbell Icefields Ski Camp (D3: Difficult) on the Eiger and their even more exciting descent; travel to Fri Mar 21 - 29, 2014 – Skiing – Kokanee Glacier Cabin Camp (Dif- Chamonix for ascents of Mt Blanc & other peaks in the region ficult) and finally take a train to Zermatt for accounts of an ascent (& bivi) of the Matterhorn, a great day on the Dufourspitze, of Monte Rosa (highest peak in Switzerland), some hiking - and a little Parapenting to keep things interesting.

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Return undeliverable Canadian address to: ACC Vancouver Section c/o Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC 130 West Broadway, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1P3