100in RIRIGGAA

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INDEX

Introduction to Riga 4

Symbols of Riga 6

Architecture 16

Interesting Neighbourhoods 30

Nature 41

Art and Culture Institutions 52

Restaurants, Bars and Cafes 64

Fashion and Design 78

Untraditional Viewpoints 94

Legendary Rigans 102 ”You are holding in your hands the essence of Riga, in all of the diversity, untamedness and also historical multi-laye- redness that has made the city what it is today. 4 ” INTRODUCTION TO RIGA

Do you know what’s the one ques- Historically, Riga has always been white layer of snow. tion about Riga visitors to the city a crossroads, a melting pot of most often ask? No, it’s not about various nations and cultures. But Today, Riga is a cradle for innova- the current economic situation or the unique patina in this city of tive start-ups, and it prides itself what time of year is best to visit more than 600,000 inhabitants in an excellent music and contem- Riga. In fact, it’s more of an obser- has in large part also been formed porary art scene, the Song Festival vation than a question: “It feels by the proximity of water – the (which culminates in an open-air like Riga is bubbling over with Daugava River and the Gulf of concert with 18,000 choir singers) life and has become something Riga. and a dynamic gastronomy milieu, like the creative epicentre of the in which local chefs compete in Baltics. There’s so much going on, The city has always lived in close their search for “the flavour of especially in culture. Why exactly cooperation with nature, which Latvia” and thus bring an appre- Riga, and why right now?” is still an important part of its ciative smile to the face of many a residents’ daily lives – the many gourmet traveller. This publication, which includes public parks, forests, squares, 100 things, places, facts and lakes and city canal. Riga has hills Riga has a glamorous city cen- emotions that define present-day and islands, as well as beaches. tre as well as a hipster republic. Riga and its unique vibe, is an Nesting birds and even beavers It’s possible to arrive in Riga via answer to this question. You are call the city home. In addi- all three classic means of trans- holding in your hands the essence tion, considering the relatively portation – air, land and water of Riga, in all of the diversity, compactness of the city, many – and the city can be observed untamedness and also historical of its sites are within walking both from above and from a SUP multi-layeredness that has made distance: special urban pulse board on the water. Even though the city what it is today. From points and green relaxation zones, geographically Riga can be con- symbols of the city, architec- a dynamic city atmosphere and sidered a Nordic city, its multi- tural masterpieces and cultural the romance of rural idylls. In the national character makes it both and artistic spaces to various springtime, the air in Riga is full of adventurous and passionate. And different neighbourhoods of the the heady aroma of lilacs; in the yet, also ambitious. Like any city city, fashion, design, gastronomy, autumn, it exudes the melancholy full of creative energy, it vibrates, sports activities and unusual of falling yellow and red leaves; pulsates and astonishes at any scenic viewpoints. in the winter, it sparkles with a time of year. feeling of wonder after a fresh,

5 SYMBOLS OF RIGA

6 SILHOUETTE OF RIGA

The historical centre of Riga, which the former Latvija (now Radisson has been granted UNESCO World Blu) hotel, both built during the Heritage status, is best seen from Soviet era. More recent architecture the left bank of the Daugava River. is found on the other side of the Its main features are the church river: the Z-Towers (123 and 117.5 towers concentrated in Old Riga – meters) built in the last decade, the St. Peter’s Church, Riga Cathedral, Swedbank headquarters building 1 St. Jacob’s Cathedral, St. Mary (121 meters) and also the National Magdalene Roman Catholic Church Library of Latvia (66 metres), the and the Anglican Church – as well form of which reflects the Old as Riga Castle, the Baroque tower Riga silhouette, thereby creating of City Hall (Rātsnams) and the a dialogue between the two sides high-rise Academy of Sciences of the river. Other accents in the building (108 metres). In addition city’s silhouette include industrial to these classics, you’ll also see the smokestacks and the water towers Ministry of Agriculture building and built at the turn of the 20th century.

7 ”Although built in honour of soldiers killed in the Latvian War of Independence (1918–1920), today it is a national symbol of unity, independence and freedom.

”

8 FREEDOM MONUMENT

The Freedom Monument is a land and Freedom”. symbol that evokes awe in even the most sceptical of Latvians. Although The demolition of the monument built in honour of soldiers who were was discussed during the Soviet era, killed in the Latvian War of Inde- but the famous Russian sculptor pendence (1918–1920), today it is a (and student of Zāle) Vera Mukhina, national symbol of unity, indepen- who believed the monument to 2 dence and freedom. The project be of high artistic value, is credited was initiated in 1920, and the with saving it. Although the placing winning design, titled “Shine Like a of flowers and gathering in larger Star”, was created by Kārlis Zāle. The groups at the foot of the monument monument was financed with dona- was prohibited during the Soviet tions from the people of Latvia and occupation, it nevertheless retained unveiled in 1935. It is 42 metres tall its symbolic meaning. When and made of grey and red granite, the National Awakening move- travertine, reinforced concrete and ment began in the late 1980s, the copper. The composition consists Freedom Monument was the site of of thirteen groups of sculptures and demonstrations marking important bas-reliefs depicting the history dates in Latvian history. The first and culture of Latvia. Above these such demonstration took place on sculptures rises a 19-metre-tall June 14, 1987, when members of the obelisk with the symbol of Freedom Helsinki-86 human rights defence at the top – a young woman who is group commemorated the victims affectionately called Milda by the of mass deportations by the Soviet people. She holds three gold-plated regime. The ceremonial guard at stars high in the air, which repre- the monument was reinstated after sent the three historical regions of the restoration of Latvian indepen- the country: Vidzeme, Latgale and dence. Kurzeme. The inscription at the foot of the monument reads “For Home-

9 NOVEMBER 11 EMBANKMENT

The November 11 Embankment Midsummer, when the city cele- the Black Knight. The work ends, (11. novembra krastmala), a street brates the shortest night of the however, with a remark that there that stretches right along the year. will eventually come a time when banks of the Daugava River in only the enemy will be pushed central Riga, is one of the city’s One of the most special events down. main thoroughfares and has associated with the November been of strategic importance 11 Embankment is the annual November 11, 1919, is symbolically throughout its history. It has observance of Lāčplēsis Day on considered just such a time. On experienced times of flourishing November 11. Lāčplēsis is the that day, the army of the newly as well as many tragic episodes. Latvian Superman – a mytho- independent Latvia was victo- For example, along this street is logical figure whose source of rious in its battle3 against Pavel a monument to the people who incredible strength lies in his Bermondt-Avalov and his forces. perished during a demonstration bearish ears. Even very young In commemoration of this event, on January 13, 1905 – it was here children are familiar with his story, on Lāčplēsis Day the country pays that they were wounded and because almost every household tribute to all the soldiers who killed by gunfire, or chased onto has a copy of the Lāčplēsis epic fought in the Latvian War of Inde- the river ice and drowned. written in the late 19th century pendence, and since 1988 people by the poet Andrejs Pumpurs, have been gathering on the banks Today, the November 11 Embank- who based his work on popular of the Daugava on the evening of ment is the site of many city-wide folk tales. Lāčplēsis’ purpose November 11 to light thousands festivities, including the annual in life is to battle the nation’s and thousands of candles. Some celebration of Latvia’s indepen- enemies, although in Pumpurs’ even make small boats to send dence day on November 18, the version of the story he drowns in their candles out onto the waters Riga Festival, New Year’s Eve and the Daugava River together with of the Daugava.

10 NATIONAL LIBRARY OF LATVIA

The new national library of Latvia, those in the know say that at five dainas, or Latvian folk verses. also referred to by locals as the o’clock in the morning on May 4 Barons designed the cabinet Gaismas pils (Castle of Light), was (the anniversary of the restora- himself, and it was made in for decades one of the most-dis- tion of the independence of the 1880 in Moscow. He had up until cussed construction projects in Republic of Latvia), a ray of light then kept his collected folklore Riga. The need for a new home shoots straight up into the sky materials in cigar boxes, but he for the country’s national archive from the very top of the library. transferred them to the new of books arose already in the As the sun rises on that morning, cabinet when the number of early 1990s, as soon as Latvia it supposedly reflects off the buil- verses reached about 150,000. 4regained its independence. ding and shines perfectly verti- In all, the cabinet holds 217,996 That’s when famous Latvian-born cally into the heavens. four-line folk verses. It was added architect Gunārs Birkerts (1925– to the UNESCO Memory of the 2017) drew a sketch for just such The library contains the original World register in 2001. a building, which took more cabinet used by Krišjānis Barons, than 20 years to come to fruition the best-known collector of and sparked heated debates in society.

But, since it opened to the public in the spring of 2014, the National Library of Latvia has become a significant part of Riga’s cityscape and is consi- dered one of the city’s most vivid cultural landmarks of the 21st century. The Castle of Light is always full of life and energy; it hosts a variety of book exhi- bitions, and it has also become a sought-after venue for exhibi- tions of contemporary art. The building has a certain magic –

11 LATVIAN NATIONAL THEATRE

The Latvian National Theatre is where ravelins. In order to fortify the theatre the Republic of Latvia was proclaimed building, 1493 piles were driven into the on November 18, 1918. The Eclectic-style foundation. building, designed by Latvian architect Augusts Reinbergs, has been deemed Over the many years of its existence, a national architectural and artistic one of the mainstays of the Latvian monument. Construction began in 1899 National Theatre has been the popu- and spawned a number of legends. larising of Latvian theatrical works. It While digging the foundation pit, traditionally begins each season with a workers discovered quicksand and also new production of a work by a Latvian well-preserved, 300-year-old piles from author. 5 a Swedish-built system of defensive

12 THE BLACK THRESHOLD AND THE MEMORIAL TO VICTIMS OF REPRESSION AT THE TORŅAKALNS STATION

It’s difficult to imagine that the rial depicts a steel door that areas were loaded onto cattle building on the corner of Brīvības stands ajar, symbolically separa- cars and deported to Siberia on and Stabu streets, the Eclectic ting freedom from oppression, June 14, 1941, and March 23, 1949. style of which is so typical of humiliation and death. It is a Whole families were deported, Riga, is actually a silent witness to powerful reminder of the wrongs including women, children, Latvia’s years of Soviet occupation committed against thousands of infants and the elderly – in all and has literally been soaked in innocent people who were forced more than 50,000 people. Most 5 6blood. Here the Museum of the to cross the dark threshold of this of them died either during the Occupation of Latvia set up the building into the KGB’s cellars, journey or in Siberia from hunger, Black Threshold, a memorial to where they were tortured to illness and the cold. Today, one victims of communist terror. The death. of the original cattle cars and building itself is known locally a commemorative stone stand as the Corner House, and during The Torņakalns railway station next to the station building as a the Soviet era it served as the is another witness to very tragic bitter, existential reminder of this headquarters for the Cheka, or events in Latvia’s history. This is tragedy. KGB. Created by Latvian sculptor the place from where thousands Gleb Panteleyev, the memo- of Rigans and residents of nearby

LATVIAN SONG AND DANCE FESTIVAL

The Latvian Song and Dance together. Currently, the festivals Festival is a cultural phenomenon average 30,000 participants from and the largest cultural event across the country. The majority in the country. The first such are members of choirs and dance festival took place in 1873, when groups, but many brass bands, present-day Latvia was still a part folklore groups, ethnographic of the Russian Empire. Twenty-five ensembles, country bands, kokle song festivals have been orga- ensembles, amateur theatre nised since then, and they have troupes and foreign guests also become some of the most impor- take part. tant events bringing the nation 7 13 CEMETERY CULTURE

Latvians have a special rela- and monuments are washed and Latvians organise “candle tionship with the deceased, decorated with fresh bouquets evenings”, or, to use the church’s which is most apparent at the of summer flowers. On the terminology, they commemorate so-called cemetery celebrations Sunday of the celebration, rela- All Souls’ Day. On this evening, held throughout the country on tives from near and far, from city they visit their family graves and Sundays between June and the and country, meet at their family place small evergreen wreaths end of August. graves. After honouring their and candles next to the graves of deceased, they often go to have their loved ones. On this evening, A cemetery celebration is a social lunch together or otherwise mark all of Riga’s cemeteries are alight event, a local ritual. The ceme- the reunion of family members. with thousands of small candles, tery is spruced up several days and to passers-by the scene looks before the celebration: the sand During the darker months of at once strange8 and surreal, but is raked, often creating symmet- autumn (in Riga, it’s the last also very touching. rical designs; the headstones Sunday before Advent begins),

RIGA BLACK BALSAM

Riga Black Balsam (Rīgas Melnais macist and blacksmith Abraham or at the first sign of a cold. Over balzams) is the most popular of Kunze. It has always been kept in the years, a number of flavour Latvian drinks. Having survived oak barrels and later filled into variations have been introduced through many different eras ceramic bottles. According to to the market, but the liqueur’s without losing any of its authen- legend, Russian Empress Cathe- original recipe is still the most ticity, the unique liqueur is made rine the Great was cured with Riga popular. from an infusion of 24 different Black Balsam after falling ill on roots, leaves, flowers and buds. a visit to Riga. To this day, Rigans The recipe was developed in the take the drink as a dose of “medi- 9mid-18th century by Rigan phar- cine” on dark autumn evenings 14 STREET ART

Even though street art in Riga both from Latvia – used 1500 cans Kiwie often depicts a special is still in its infancy, it’s already of spray paint to complete the animal-like character in his becoming an exciting new work of art. artwork, and this is one of the canvas. Both firewalls and roofs most recognisable images in are being painted, and the most Saule, Pērkons, Daugava is the Riga’s street art. The best example noticeable example to date is the largest piece of street art in the can be seen on the building at 13 800-square-metre work titled Baltic States and features the Alauksta Street. Rudens Stencil’s Saule, Pērkons, Daugava (Sun, red-and-white Lielvārde sash, a best-known work in Riga is the Thunder, Daugava) on the wall at symbol of Latvian identity. The 8x8-metre portrait of a woman at 46 Tallinas Street. Created during title refers to a song for choir by 6 Priežu Street in the Sarkandau- a street art festival in 2014, the the same name. gava district. 8 10artists – Kiwie and Rudens Stencil,

15 ARCHITECTURE

16 MEDIEVAL RIGA

Riga is full of many vivid reminders of modate firearms. The pointy roof was its medieval past. One of these is the added only in the 19th century. defensive wall that once surrounded the city. It was 1.30 metres thick and Riga Castle, on the right bank of the 9 metres high and originally had a Daugava River, is the most predomi- fortified tower every 70–120 metres. nant structure in Riga’s Old Town and Some of these towers (28 in total) one of the largest medieval castles were round, others semicircular, and in Latvia. It was built in the late 1340s, still others were rectangular. One of destroyed in 1484 and rebuilt anew the earliest sections of the fortified in 1515. The castle has a long and 11wall still stands today, in Jāņa Sēta interesting history – for many centu- (John’s Courtyard). The stone wall ries it served as the centre of power, was extended in the 13th century, as controlling a sometimes larger, some- the town expanded, and a fragment times smaller territory. And it conti- of this slightly newer section is still nues this purpose today, as the seat of visible on Trokšņu Street. the President of Latvia. The castle has been reconstructed numerous times, One of the city’s main pillars of and over the centuries it has lost – defence was the Powder Tower, origi- but also gained – many elements of nally called the Sand Tower. Today it artistic and architectural significance. is all that remains of a complex that In its current form, Riga Castle has six once guarded the entrance to the city towers. The Tower of the Holy Spirit, from the east. Back then, however, the the Lead Tower, the Pipera Tower and Powder Tower, which dates to the year the North Tower mark the structure’s 1330, looked completely different; it corners; the other two towers are was neither round nor enclosed, as named the Bay (Erker) Tower and the it is today. It originally had a rectan- Tower of the Three Stars. gular form, and later it was horses- hoe-shaped. The tower only took on its current form in the 16th century, when it was rebuilt in order to accom-

17 18 ART NOUVEAU

Art Nouveau – that most noti- Nouveau is the basis on which Romantic style, which is rooted in ceable of all architecture styles Riga’s historical centre was listed an understanding of local archi- in Riga – marks an extraordinary as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. tectural forms. It is encoded with period of economic growth that a Northern constancy and stabi- the city experienced at the turn The Kamintius House apartment lity, manifested in robust forms of the 20th century. Approxima- building at 23 Tallinnas Street and relatively rough textures. tely 800 of the city’s buildings showcases the start of a colla- While architect Mikhail Eisens- 12feature Art Nouveau façades, boration of two Art Nouveau tein created fireworks with his which include characteristic virtuosos, Konstantīns Pēkšēns virtuosic play of decorative forms, motifs such as stylised plants, (1859–1928) and Eižens Laube Laube’s designs were reserved floral and marine life, screaming (1880–1967). This partnership and noble yet articulated with and laughing masks, and sculp- soon flourished, resulting in effect in their façade finishes, tures depicting the female form, hundreds of construction integrating ethnographic motifs an eternal symbol of beauty. The projects in Riga. Pēkšēns was the in various shades of neutral grey. style is located everywhere, from most multi-faceted architect in The most striking examples of the wooden architecture of the the history of Latvian architecture, this style can be found at 15/17 Mežaparks suburb to the many and, as an employee in Pēkšēns’ Tērbatas Street (originally the Atis impressive masonry buildings in office, Laube demonstrated his Ķeniņš School) and the outstan- Riga’s Quiet Centre (Alberta iela innovative talents in designing a ding National Romantic-style and Strēlnieku iela), and even on national architecture inspired by apartment building at 47 Brīvības the lone representative of this the Art Nouveau style. Thus, both Street. style at 23 Tallinas Street. Art architects developed the National

”Art Nouveau is the basis on which Riga’s historical centre was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

19 ” PORTALS AND ORNAMENTAL RELIEFS

Over the centuries, Riga’s archi- Mary. Plettenberg, as the ruler of prominent architects of the day, tecture has amassed a rich variety that land, ushered in a new era and his work can still be seen at 9 of building façades saturated with both economically and spiritually Pils Street, 5 Smilšu Street and 17 many symbolic motifs. with the help of the Reformation. Šķūņu Street. The Late Gothic reliefs of the Several 17th-century Baroque The many examples of Art Madonna and Child and Master buildings in Riga’s Old Town Nouveau architecture in Riga of the Livonian Order Wolter feature ornate stone portals, for let visitors appreciate a variety von Plettenberg on the main example, the Rheuttern (Reiterna) of ornamentation styles. For courtyard portal of the Riga House and the Swedish-Baroque13 example, the buildings designed Castle are particularly unique Dannenstern House, both on by Konstantīns Pēkšēns at 3 and and valuable. The sculptures Mārstaļu Street. 13 Rūpniecības Street and 13 depict two symbols – a spiritual In the 18th century, when Classi- Elizabetes Street in the so-called leader and a secular leader – of cism entered architecture, land- Quiet Centre neighbourhood the Christianisation of Prussia lords paid particular attention to feature ethnographic and orna- and Livonia. When present-day the portal of a building, designing mental reliefs, while the decora- Latvia and Estonia were Christi- it to form a unified composition tion on the building at 14 Vīlandes anised in the Middle Ages, they together with the central window Street has a bee motif, a symbol were named Terra Mariana (Mary’s and balcony above it. Christoph of industriousness and resource- Land) in honour of the Virgin Haberland was one of the most fulness.

”The Late Gothic reliefs of the Madonna and Child and Master of the Livonian Order Wolter von Plettenberg on the main courtyard portal of the Riga Castle are particularly unique and valuable. The sculptures depict two symbols – a spiritual leader and a secular leader – of the Christianisation of Prussia and Livonia.

20 ” RIGA CATHEDRAL

Riga Cathedral has no match be seen today. in terms of its longevity, size and magnificence. It is the The cathedral tower has only cathedral-style church a very unique feature – a and cathedral chapter wooden double-spiral stair- monastery complex in the case. There are only two such Baltic States. Construction staircases in the world, and lasted throughout the whole both were made according of the 13th century, and the to drawings by Leonardo da grand building was rebuilt and Vinci. 14expanded a number of times over the next few centuries. Although the church was built on a hillock, its foundation In 1547, the Riga Cathedral currently lies a few metres church spire was destroyed below street level. Due to by fire, and the effects of flooding of the Daugava River, the tragedy can still be seen every year the road level today – during the fire the around the church had to tower acted like a huge be raised. Still, water often chimney, and therefore some flooded into the church. of the walls appear to be In the spring of 1709, for covered with a layer of glass. example, it was possible to The tower was rebuilt at go fishing inside the church, the end of the 16th century, and later a memorial plaque and it was constructed from was affixed to the interior wall the ground up with a lattice showing the water level at of dense wood to provide that time. support for the 140-metre pyramid-shaped church spire One of the most impressive to withstand the force of the features of the church today wind. At the time it was one is the moment when the of the tallest structures of interior lighting is switched on its kind in the world. In the at dusk and the extraordinary mid-18th century the church stained glass windows reveal spire was torn down and a themselves when viewed new, lower structure was built; from Cathedral Square. this is the tower with Baroque ornamentation that can still 21 ”The church is dedicated to St. Peter, the patron of the city, who is depicted on the church’s weather vanes holding the key to the city in his hand. This church, built in the 13th century, is the most notable Gothic monu- ment in Riga and one of the most beautiful of its kind in the Baltics.

22 ” ST. PETER’S CHURCH

At a height of 123 metres, the church Gothic monument in Riga and one spire of St. Peter’s Church in Riga of the most beautiful of its kind in towers over all the other church the Baltics. The church contains the spires in Riga and is a dominant exposed brick walls, large lancet and integral part of the city skyline. arch windows and rosettes that are The tower has been restored to its characteristic of Northern Gothic original 17th century form, having architecture. The church was subs- 15been destroyed by fire after a tantially rebuilt and extended in the lightning strike in 1721 (lightning has 15th century. The 136-metre-tall bell struck the St. Peter’s Church tower a tower was constructed at that time, total of six times). and at the top of the steeple was a sphere that served as a document The church is dedicated to St. depository as well as the symbolic Peter, the patron of the city, who is Riga rooster. The rooster atop the depicted on the church’s weather tower today is the seventh such vanes holding the key to the city in rooster and an exact replica of the his hand. This church, built in the previous one. 13th century, is the most notable

23 WATER TOWERS

A particular feature of the city of Riga is its impressive industrial heritage, including fac- tory chimneys and the unique water towers built around the turn of the 20th century. In fact, it would be difficult to find similar towers in any other European city. Today, however, they no longer serve their original purpose and have instead become distinc- tive historical monuments. It would even be worth planning a unique water-tower tour of16 the city. Such a tour could begin with the oldest of the city’s four water towers, the “twin” giants built in 1896 and 1897 and located at the end of Matīsa Street. Then continue on to Riga’s largest water tower, which was built in 1912 in the Čiekurkalns neighbourhood and reflects the Art Nouveau architectural style, albeit with a Baroque-style roof. End your tour at the Āgenskalns water tower on Alīses Street. This beauty, designed in 1910 by Riga’s most famous architect, Wilhelm Bockslaff, underwent a complex recon- struction in 1937, when the top of the tower was lifted with jacks and the tower’s “leg” was heightened by 7.5 metres. The tower is now 40 metres high. The top of the main portal is decorated with a large Riga coat of arms in the Art Deco style – a real piece of 20th-century avantgarde that can surprise passers-by still today. The interior of the tower is just as impressive as the exterior, with the monstrous constructions and metal rivets bringing to mind Captain Nemo’s submarine.

24Wikimedia Commons/ CC BY SA 4.0 WOODEN ARCHITECTURE

Riga can be regarded as a city cism, Historicism, Swiss chalet and quarter. made of wood, and this is a rarity Art Nouveau, as well as simple As the result of the work of the among European cities. There is wooden structures and wooden Koka Rīga (Wooden Riga) wooden more wooden architecture here sheds. architecture restoration centre, than anywhere else – in total Nowadays much of the wooden the intersection at Lienes and around 4000 wooden buildings. architecture so characteristic of Krāsotāju streets in Grīziņkalns, The most notable collections Riga is undergoing painstaking on the right bank of the Daugava of wooden buildings can be restoration. One of the most River, has also experienced a found in the Grīziņkalns district notable stories regarding the rebirth. Superb examples of of the city and across the river restoration of wooden struc- wooden architecture can be 16 17in Pārdaugava, especially Ķīpsala tures can be seen in Pārdaugava, found on Krāsotāju, Vārnu and Island and Kalnciema Street. In along Kalnciema Street on either Jāņa Asara streets as well as in the Pārdaugava, the construction of side of the intersection with area near the intersection of Čaka wooden buildings began in the Melnsila Street. By scrutinising and Matīsa streets. An example is 17th century and continued until archival documents, blueprints the wooden structure at 2a Jāņa the start of the Second World and project sketches, the reno- Asara Street, which is built in the War. vators managed to reconstruct style of a Swiss chalet, a style The oldest wooden buildings still the unique aura of this corner of that is mostly seen in the classy standing today were built in the the city, enjoyed today by Rigans suburb of Mežaparks. 18th century. The styles repre- who regularly attend markets and sented include Baroque, Classi- cultural events organised in this

25 SOVIET SLEEPING DISTRICTS

The buildings in Riga’s sleeping Identical, or only slightly modi- as the “Wall of China”. It is not districts – often referred to as fied, construction projects were only the longest building in Riga, “boxes” due to the grey concrete built simultaneously throughout but also in the whole of Latvia. panels and dull-toned white the whole Soviet Union, from The building stretches for over calcium silicate bricks from which Leningrad to Belgorod, Siberia half a kilometre; it has 11 stairwells they’re made – are much criticised and Tashkent. Yet, it is possible to and 404 apartments. A similar for their lack of aesthetic appeal. feel a certain sense of individual “Wall of China” consisting of mul- However, these mass-produced character in the seemingly hope- ti-modular nine-storey buildings residential buildings built in the less uniformity of the buildings, can be found in Purvciems, Riga’s Soviet era are an integral part of and the world that unfolds in the largest suburb. The grey concrete Riga. The multi-level residential cross-section of a single building hulk stretches for a whole block apartments on the outskirts of the can be quite intriguing. 18on Dzelzavas Street and is speck- city were primarily built between led with a colourful mosaic of 1950 and 1990 and are a striking There’s a striking building on balconies, each outfitted and dec- legacy of that era. Ozolciema Street in the Ziepniek- orated according to the different kalns suburb of Riga – the Series tastes of its residents. 119 construction is known locally

26 19UNIVERSITY OF LATVIA

The largest structure on the Riga the building features ornamental glimpses of the old bastion. Boulevard Circle is the main cast-iron mouldings depicting the building of the University of Latvia coats of arms of the former Baltic The interior of the university, on Raiņa Boulevard. This monu- provinces: Vidzeme, Kurzeme with its large halls and antique mental yellow brick building and Estonia. Above these are wooden stairways that still is, incidentally, also the oldest reliefs symbolising the nine fields have the scent of wood, is just university building in Latvia; its of technical science that were as elegant as the façade of the construction was begun in 1866. offered for study at the Riga Poly- building. It was designed by Gustav Hilbig technic (the former name of the and in accordance with the tradi- University of Latvia) at that time: An intriguing anomaly in the tions related to the construction physics, chemistry, mechanics, building is the legendary punish- of teaching institutions at that commerce, engineering, architec- ment cell, which instilled fear in time. The impressive ensemble ture, agriculture, land surveying students for not returning books of buildings occupying the entire and navigation. on time or other transgressions. block encircled by four streets – The punishment was solitary Raiņa Boulevard, Merķeļa, Inže- The university’s astronomical confinement in the narrow space nieru and Arhitektu streets – was observatory provides an inte- for a few days. This is why the constructed in three stages, a resting vertical emphasis to the greyish white walls were soon process that took approximately central projection of the building. covered right up to the ceiling forty years. The tower offers a 360-degree with not only signatures but also view, with Vērmanes Park on drawings and longer memoirs Neo-Romantic, Renaissance and one side and the gardens by the – from thoughts on university Byzantine architectural styles can canal on the other. From this lecturers to memories of past be found in the oldest part of vantage point the structure of the girlfriends the ensemble. The central part of network of footpaths provides 27 RIGA CHURCH OF JESUS

Several unique wooden churches in Latvia remain almost completely unaltered since their time of construction, thereby embodying an almost magi- cal aura of history. Some of these churches can be found in Riga and are linked with the architect Chris- tian Friedrich Breitkreutz.

One of Breitkreutz’s wooden gems is the Riga Church of Jesus (18 Elijas iela), built in 1822. It is the largest Late Classicism-style wooden construction 20 in Latvia and is also considered one of the largest wooden churches in Europe. It is an eight-cornered building with simplified, symmetrical, Empire-style architectural shapes and exhibiting a characteris- tically strict and solemn monumentality. The inte- rior of the building is covered by a large cupola, 20 metres in diameter, which is perched on 16 wood- en columns grouped in pairs. The grandeur of the main façade is emphasised by a portico with four Ionic columns, while the 27-metre-tall bell tower dominates the surrounding skyline and stresses the importance of the building. All constructions in the church are secured with wooden pegs, which ensure the 19th-century structure’s stability even today.

28 20

”It is an eight-cornered building with simplified, symmetrical, Empire-style archi- tectural shapes and exhibiting a characteristi- cally strict and solemn monumentality.

29 ” INTERESTING NEIGHBOURHOODS

”In the late 19th century this part of Riga – between Marijas, Elizabetes and Dzirnavu streets – was still considered the outskirts of the city and a relatively unde- veloped quarter with allotment gardens and even a cabbage field nearby.

30 ” BERGA BAZĀRS

Berga Bazārs is like a small, Berga Bazārs was built over a many different ethnicities. Berga self-sufficient city within a city. period of 13 years (1887–1900) and Bazārs later suffered considerable It is very centrally located and is the largest and only shopping damage during the two world also within the borders of Riga’s passage of its kind in Riga. It has wars and the Soviet era. But today, UNESCO-protected historical a patina all its own, the result of thanks to Bergs’ descendants, it city centre. The network of small a colourful and varied history. In has been restored to its former pedestrian streets hidden from the late 19th century this part of form and is one of the most exci- the larger thoroughfares around Riga – between Marijas, Elizabetes ting examples of Riga’s 21st-cen- it harbours a kind of secret, inner and Dzirnavu streets – was still tury pride. In addition to stores 21life of shops, cafés and arcades. considered the outskirts of the and cafés, Berga Bazārs is also One of the city’s most unique city and a relatively undeveloped home to the Hotel Bergs, beside architectural projects, Berga quarter with allotment gardens which stands a fountain created Bazārs was built in the late 19th and even a cabbage field nearby. by the well-known Latvian artist century by local businessman and But when the “bazaar” opened in Ilmārs Blumbergs. urban developer Kristaps Bergs in 1900, it quickly became a centre collaboration with a young archi- of activity, attracting both urban tect named Konstantīns Pēkšēns. and rural dwellers and people of

”Berga Bazārs is also home to the Hotel Bergs, beside which stands a foun- tain created by the well-known Latvian artist Ilmārs Blumbergs.

” 31 KALNCIEMA QUARTER

The many wooden buildings along an environment like none other. Kalnciema and Melnsila streets Kalnciema Street in the Pārdauga- The buildings are home to an ex- has become very popular in re- va district of Riga – but especially clusive design salon, architecture cent years. Every Saturday, local those around the intersection offices, cafés and other creative farmers and artisans arrive here with Melnsila Street – are part of businesses. The neighbourhood to sell their produce and wares – one of the best-known and most also enjoys an active cultural the atmosphere is colourful, the creative areas of the city. These life, with regular concerts, art emotions are genuine, and air is buildings have been carefully exhibitions and poetry readings. full of enticing aromas, freshness restored, and their owners have The weekly farmer’s market that and energy. invested much energy in creating takes place at the intersection22 of

32 MEŽAPARKS

At the height of the industrial residences to survive to the Dancigas... Later, the Latvian revolution, when European cities present day is Grāves Estate in intelligentsia also began to buy began to encounter some of the Saules Dārzs. up plots, and some of these first problems associated with families have managed to retain the urban phenomenon – such as By the time the First World War ownership of their properties to poor air quality and lack of suns- began, 108 villas had already the present day. hine – more and more thought been built in Mežaparks. In was put into creating a healthy the 1920s and 1930s another As befits a ‘town in a forest’, urban environment. One of the 250 single-family homes were Mežaparks is special for its unhur- first garden cities in Europe was added to the colony. Most of the ried pace of life. In winter, when 23developed in Riga in 1901. It was houses in Mežaparks were built ice and slush cover the streets an avantgarde project in a pine in the rational Art Nouveau style, of central Riga, Mežaparks enjoys forest on the banks of Ķīšezers although various ‘neo’ styles from fluffy, white snowbanks and Lake quite near the city centre. previous eras can also be found silence. In the summer, it offers a Until then, this area (which is in the architecture. The first breath of refreshing, aromatic air. now called Mežaparks, but was people to afford private homes On Sundays you’ll find the park formerly known as Ķeizarmežs) in Mežaparks were the German being enjoyed by families with was a pristine lakeside pine forest intelligentsia, which is reflected children heading to the local zoo. with only a few country estates. in the German names of many The only one of these summer streets: Štrālzundes, Vismāras,

”Most of the houses in Mežaparks were built in the rational Art Nouveau style, although various ‘neo’ styles from previous eras can also be found in the architecture.

” 33 SKANSTE – RIGA’S MODERN CENTRE

According to an old legend, its developers is to make this area also already been built or are there’s a spirit that lives in the a showcase of 21st-century Riga. planned for Skanste, which make Daugava River, and every once Skanste is set to be the home of this the most rapidly growing in a while it emerges from the Riga’s conference and concert area of Riga. Skanste is located water and asks the same ques- centre, which will join the already on the right bank of the Daugava tion: “Is Riga completed?” If it existing Elektrum Olympic Sports River. The main thoroughfare is ever receives a positive answer, it Centre and Arena Riga as well Skanstes Street, and the district is said that the city will sink into as the Sporta 2 art and techno- is bordered by Pulkveža Brieža, the river. But there’s no need to logy quarter housing the kim? Hanzas and Vesetas streets as worry. Riga continues to evolve contemporary art centre and well as Ganību Dambis and the all the time. Although still in its TechHub, a space for new tech24- railway. infancy, it is assumed that the nology startups. Several modern Skanste district will become the apartment and office complexes, new centre of the city; the goal of as well as three public parks, have

MIERA STREET REPUBLIC

Even though “Peace Street” (Miera In the mornings, Miera Street Bean Roastery oasis for coffee iela in Latvian) was named after wakes up slowly. But once it’s lovers, the Mierā bakery famous the road established here in the awake, the atmosphere is enthu- for its harmony and homemade mid-19th century that led to the siastic. This is a place for all sorts cakes, the Mr. Page bookstore, new city cemetery, today it has of people who “work with their and the Astronauts store featu- made an existential U-turn and hands” – baking cakes, sewing, ring 20th-century furniture, lamps bubbles with life and the energy cooking healthy food, growing, and home accessories. of various creative initiatives. fixing, recycling, etc. In other Miera Street is the epicentre of words, this is a street of cafés, The tram that rolls along Miera Riga’s hipster culture and has small shops run by passionate Street gives the neighbourhood even been recognised by owners, workshops and other a special charm, and a special Skyscanner25 as the hippest neigh- creative initiatives. Among the aroma is provided by the Laima bourhood in the world. best-known residents on this confectionery’s chocolate street are the M50 design, clot- museum. But the area’s original peaceful hing and accessory store, the feeling has not been lost, either. Walters un Grapa bar, the Rocket 34 ”A true summer oasis for rest and relaxation, the park offers the city’s largest children’s playground, a beach, a café and all sorts of sports and activities. Lucavsala is also a place for outdoor concerts and festivals.

35 ” MOSCOW DISTRICT

The historically Russian and Jew- Moscow District is also the part of witnesses in the form of old build- ish district of Riga – called Maska- Riga where you’ll find houses of ings, original cobblestones and vas forštate in Latvian, or Maskač- worship of five different religions other elements of the ghetto’s ka in the local slang – begins right and denominations. Among them infrastructure. behind the Central Market. But is the Grebenshchikov Church, the you’ll need to venture further to world’s largest Old Believer house But change is also coming to the experience it in full. There you’ll of worship. Moscow District. Some buildings encounter wonderful wooden and streets have been renovated architecture from the 19th century In 1941, a part of the Moscow Dis- in recent years, and examples of and the turn of the 20th century, trict was sectioned off and turned modern architecture have also mysterious and time-worn court- into a Jewish ghetto. Today, the26 popped up here and there. yards, graffiti, dicey characters, Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holo- homeless communes and stray caust Museum gives visitors a look (but friendly) packs of dogs. The back into that time, with actual

BOLDERĀJA

Formerly a separate, independent close link with water is reflected Even though Bolderāja became village and later a proletariat in the local streets named after, a part of Riga only in the 1920s, district of Riga, Bolderāja still for example, cod, captains, sailors, it has long played a role in the feels like a republic unto itself. fog and the colour blue. Bolde- city’s history. The most vivid There is a completely different rāja is also known for its white testimony of its importance is the feeling of physical reality here, sand beach, pines, meadows Daugavgrīva Fortress, built in the and therefore even Rigans see and eclectic mix of architecture. 17th century by the Swedes. The heading to Bolderāja as a kind of 19th-century wooden houses and fortress was once a significant journey. Bolderāja is bordered by once-stately masonry buildings part of Riga’s defence system. the Buļļupe River, Hapaka Ditch are interspersed with examples of 27and the Loču Canal as well as Brutalist-style multi-storey apart- the Daugava River, which flows ment buildings from the Soviet into the Baltic Sea only a couple period. of kilometres away. The district’s

36 PĀRDAUGAVA

Riga’s left bank, known as courtyards between old wooden block between Meža, Tirgus and Pārdaugava (literally, “across the buildings, or lose yourself in the Puķu streets. Built in the Gothic Daugava”), has always cardinally meditative romance of the public Eclectic style, it was designed differed from the historical parks. by Latvian architect Konstantīns centre of the city. Due to the Pēkšēns. Daugava River, which forms the Practically every street in Pārdau- border between these two halves, gava has its own unique character Pārdaugava is ideal for wande- Pārdaugava developed at a diffe- and story. For example, a stroll rers and those who wish to see rent pace than the other side of along Mazā Nometņu Street “a different Riga” in concentrated the river, and in many places it becomes a lesson in the history form, right on the other side of 28still retains the charm of a small of architecture, where eclecticism the Daugava River. It’s a district town. Perhaps slightly time-worn, lives next to the rationalism of that for centuries watched as Riga but nevertheless fascinating. the 1920s-1930s and Art Nouveau developed, until it became a part Here you can still discover small stands next to classicism, the of Riga itself. streets forgotten by time and style it rejected. Nearby, Meža where automobiles don’t even Street prides itself in the buil- really venture, peek into the ding that takes up the entire

”Practically every street in Pārdaugava has its own unique character and story. For example, a stroll along Mazā Nometņu Street becomes a lesson in the history of architecture, where eclecticism lives next to the rationalism of the 1920s -1930s and Art Nouveau stands next to classicism, the style it rejected. ” 37 ”The idyllic aura of Ķīpsala Island is best expressed by the narrow cobbled street that runs right along the banks of the Daugava River. Apart from a few promi- nent newcomers, the street is lined with old wooden buildings, and the sea birds and fresh smell of water are all around.

38 Ikars / shutterstock.com ” ĶĪPSALA

As you leave the glamour of the originally inhabited by fishermen additions; others have even been boulevards in central Riga and and bargemen. These trades moved here from central Riga cross Vanšu Bridge, you enter a proved profitable, and in the in order to protect them from completely different world. The late 19th century the most pros- demolition. idyllic aura of Ķīpsala Island is perous of the island’s residents best expressed by the narrow built two-storey wooden houses. Ķīpsala is also home to the cobbled street that runs right Several of them have now been Ķīpsala International Exhibition 29along the banks of the Daugava restored and form a part of Riga’s Centre international exhibition River. Apart from a few prominent unique heritage of wooden archi- complex (the largest of its kind newcomers, the street is lined tecture, which has even been in the Baltics), the Press Building with old wooden buildings, and officially recognised by UNESCO. (a relic from the Soviet era) and the sea birds and fresh smell Many of the buildings were the Swedbank headquarters, also of water are all around. Ķīpsala restored to their original form, referred to as the Sun Rock. is about 300 years old and was while some have contemporary

39 LUCAVSALA

Despite its location in the middle for rest and relaxation, the park from outsiders by signs reading of Riga, Lucavsala is a wild island – offers the city’s largest children’s “beware of the dog”... a jungle in the heart of the city – playground, a beach, a café and It’s easy to get to Lucavsala (which that stretches for two kilometres all sorts of sports and activi- has only one street, Lucavsalas in length and a whole kilometre ties. Lucavsala is also a place for Street). Just get on trolleybus #19 in width. In addition, this is a place outdoor concerts and festivals. or bus #40 in the city centre, and where two completely different The other face of the island is the climb off at the Lucavsala stop. worlds live side by side. One face as-yet-undeveloped southern30 The park at the northern end is well-kept and the site of the end, where a certain untamed of the island begins just a few recently established Lucavsala harshness still prevails: overgrown metres from the stop. Recreation Park at the foot of paths, small allotment gardens, Salu Bridge. A true summer oasis ramshackle houses protected

40 NATURE

”Although more than one thousand kilometres long in total, only the last twenty kilometres or so of the river flow through the Latvian capital before meeting the Gulf of Riga. But the Daugava has played a crucial role in the development of Riga. The city was founded on its shores, and for a long time the river was the only east-west trade route in the region.

Aleksandrs Kendenkovs 41 ” DAUGAVA

Rigans have a very special rela- Riga. But the Daugava has played extensive springtime floods have tionship with the Daugava River. a crucial role in the development wreaked damage on the city. It is not only Latvia’s largest river of Riga. The city was founded on In 1358 the flood waters in the and a national symbol for the its shores, and for a long time the Riga Cathedral are said to have country; it is also a force of nature river was the only east-west trade reached the height of an adult with whose sometimes unpredic- route in the region. human being. And on April 23, table character the people living 311929, Riga was transformed into along its shores have needed to On the one hand a mother-nur- Venice for a day – in some areas come to terms with. Although turer (thanks to its abundance of the city movement was only more than one thousand kilo- of fish), on the other hand the possible by boat. Information on metres long in total, only the last river could also provide unple- the Daugava’s water level is still twenty kilometres or so of the asant surprises. The channel included in local springtime news river flow through the Latvian of the Daugava has changed reports. capital before meeting the Gulf of several times over the years, and

42 THE SEA

Even though technically Riga ficant relationship with the sea. power and might of the wind and is located on the Gulf of Riga, It is depicted in art, literature, witness its cleansing effect on the locals refer to this body of water cinema and folklore, where it is beaches near the city. Walking as simply “the sea”, thereby personified as both a protector out on the Mangaļsala jetty is also underscoring the self-sufficient and source of nourishment as popular at times like this – it is spirit of the city. well as the decider of fates. When the first part of the city that ships autumn storms bring strong see as they enter the mouth of Latvian culture – and Latvians winds to the area, many people the Daugava River. 31 32themselves – have a very signi- rush to the seashore to feel the

43 RIGA CANAL

3.2 kilometres long, about two metres deep and crossed by 16 bridges of various size, the Riga Canal is an artificial body of water that was created after the medieval defensive walls and ditch surrounding the city were demol- ished. Both ends of the canal are connected to the Daugava River, and its banks were care- fully landscaped in the late 19th century.

The Riga Canal is also a wonderful way to see 33Riga from a different perspective. Take a “Riga Loop” tour on a SUP board or kayak – under the 16 bridges, right in the middle yet apart from the hustle and bustle of the city, past centuries-old buildings, along the zigzags of Riga’s former system of defensive walls. Here you can paddle at your own speed and feel like you’re in a completely different world than that taking place up on dry land.

The Riga Canal is also home to beavers. They become a news item as soon as they wake up in the spring. One of the several lodges they’ve made stands right across from the opera house. But each season they also manage to take down a tree or destroy a few flower beds along the canal. Despite this mischief, which the city tries to deter with more and more protective fencing, the beavers and the resi- dents of Riga peacefully co-exist in the city.

44 ĶĪŠEZERS

Ķīšezers Lake is in the northeas- on shore and in boats), this is also warm up with, the action really tern part of Riga and is the tenth a favourite destination for local picks up in the summer, when largest lake in Latvia. windsurfers. Here you’ll also find Cabo Cafe provides the perfect the veikot.lv wakeboard club. spot to take a break during a long The average depth of Ķīšezers day in the sun and water. One of Lake is 2.4 metres, with a One of Riga’s most exciting the most popular swimming spots maximum depth of 4.2 metres. outdoor cafés is located on the on Ķīšezers Lake is right next to The lake has several islands, and banks of Ķīšezers Lake – Cabo the café. there’s almost always a wind Cafe. Even though the café blowing. Therefore, in addition to remains open during the cold the ever-present fishermen (both months and offers hot teas 34to

PARKS

At the beginning of the 20th The best known of Riga’s parks or sold to a private person and century, Riga’s parks were instead is Vērmanes Garden, which was would always remain acces- referred to as spas or health funded by public donations sible to the people of Riga. A resorts – places for people to and named in honour of the bandshell (or “cockleshell”, as relax and recuperate. Riga has largest donor, Anna Wöhrmann it was called in those days) was almost twenty parks and gardens (Vērmane), the widow of the later built in the park, with the of various size, each with its own merchant Christian Heinrich current open-air stage dating to personality. The oldest is Viestura Wöhrmann. In 1817, she donated the 1950s. A mineral-water pavi- Garden (Viestura dārzs), estab- a piece of land to the city for the lion also stood in the park, but 35lished in 1711 by order of Peter the establishment of a public park it was eventually turned into a Great himself. Here you’ll find the containing exotic tree species, movie theatre, then a cultural Alexander Gate, Riga’s only “arch a rose garden and a restaurant. centre for the city’s transportation of triumph”. Her only condition was that the employees, and today it houses park would never be subdivided the Bibliotēka N°1 restaurant.

45 Due to its location in the very River, is the most idyllic park in Uzvaras Park becomes a favou- centre of Riga, however, Vērmanes the city. Its several levels provide rite place for Rigans – as soon Garden is a hurried place, with diverse and beautiful views of the as a layer of snow forms on the many people moving through it surrounding landscape. Ziedoņ- ground, the cross-country ski trail quickly as they head from point dārzs Park is the only park in Riga and skating rink are opened for A to B. set amidst apartment buildings all to use. – like a green oasis dropped in Arkādijas Park, near Māras Pond between the inner-city buildings on the other side of the Daugava all around. In the winter, however,

46 RIGA’S ISLANDS

As all prominent rivers, the Dauga- about 300 years old. Furthermore, spring and the bitter aroma of fall- va is capricious and has a strong it seems to still be growing today. en leaves in the autumn. There is personality. Its islands provide There used to be a fishing village still a small settlement of houses vivid testimony of this character. on the island, but life changed in from the early 20th century in the Although poorly documented in 1976, when the Salu Bridge was central part of the island, but the historical sources, it is estimated built, and later, in the 1980s, when site is increasingly being degraded that there were once several doz- the Riga Radio and Television Tow- by industrialisation. en islands in the Daugava River. er was built on the island. Over the years, they have changed Today, the name of a street re- shape, merged, become attached Kundziņsala was also formed mains as the only evidence of the 36to the mainland or even been lost when several smaller islands existence of Mūkusala Island; the altogether due to flooding, the merged together in the second area was only a true island from river’s channels changing course half of the 18th century. For a the 13th to the 18th century. Lu- and also the military and industri- long time, the island was a nest- cavsala and Ķīpsala islands, how- al actions of humans living along ing ground for seagulls and other ever, are still full-fledged islands. the river’s shores. aquatic birds. In fact, one of the islands that merged to form The current islands in the river, Kundziņsala was named Duck Is- each of which is a world of its land. Even though the romance of own, are also undergoing constant earlier times is gone, Kundziņsa- change. For example, Zaķusala la is still a place to go for some Island, which was formed by the peace and quiet – a place to merging of several islands, is only enjoy the aroma of lilacs in the

47 RIGA’S BEACHES

In recent years, Riga has put more Castle, where the president of where the wakeboarders gather. and more thought into summer, Latvia resides. With the traffic And where open-air film scree- and it’s gradually becoming one speeding past up on the bridge, nings take place. And where you of the most summer-friendly this beach combines an urban can sit on the café terrace and cities in Europe. This means that dynamic with the idyllic tranquil- gaze at the sunset reflecting off beaches have become an integral lity and sweet summer smells of the river’s waters. part of the city as well. Whether Ķīpsala. along the Daugava River or the For those who prefer a lake- banks of Ķīšezers Lake, each The beach on Lucavsala Island, side beach, head to the slightly beach has a character of its own. for its part, feels like a trip out smaller beach at Ķīšezers Lake, into the green countryside,37 even whose sand is sprinkled with The best beach for industrial though the island is right in the pine needles and cones. That’s romantics is the white-sand middle of the city. Lucavsala because of its location between beach on Ķīpsala Island. It’s was once full of small allot- the pine forest and the boat dock. located at the foot of the Vanšu ment gardens, but now eleven The Mežaparks central prome- Bridge, next to one of the city’s hectares have been turned into nade – appropriately called busiest transportation hubs. a large recreation zone popular Atpūtas Street (Street of Rest) – is Directly across the river is the with locals from all walks of life. also nearby. Here you’ll find a Riga Passenger Terminal, so you Thanks to its interactive children’s cafés as well as plenty of space can watch the ships come in and playgrounds, the beach on Lucav- for a picnic. leave as you catch some rays. sala is a great place for families From here you can also see Riga with young children. This is also

”The best beach for industrial romantics is the white-sand beach on Ķīpsala Island. It’s located at the foot of the Vanšu Bridge, next to one of the city’s busiest transportation hubs. Directly across the river is the Riga Passenger Terminal, so you can watch the ships come in and leave as you catch some rays. 48 ” RIGA’S HILLS

The topography of Riga was orig- event in Latvia’s recent history. In inally wind-blown sand dunes. A 24-metre-high dune can be January 1991, several people were Small settlements were eventually found in the former working-class killed or mortally wounded here established between the dunes, neighbourhood of Grīziņkalns. A during a shootout by the special and still today there are quite a public park was established here police units of the Soviet Ministry few place names in Riga that refer as well in the early 20th century, of the Interior. Commemorative in one way or another to hills, and its best-known feature is a stones on both sides of the city although in reality they are all series of terraces. canal now mark the sites where relatively quite small. they fell. The highest point (actually, the 37 38The highest point in Riga is Dze- only area of higher elevation) But the most paradoxical of Riga’s gužkalns (Cuckoo Hill, 28 me- in the city centre is Bastejkalns. hills lies at the end of Deglava tres above sea level), a naturally The hill was made from the city’s Street, amongst the clusters of formed dune in the Pārdaugava medieval defensive ramparts multi-storey apartment complex- district of the city that’s a kilo- after they were demolished in the es. For almost 50 years this – a metre long and about 300 metres 19th century. The retaining walls district that is now home to more wide. The area was turned into were added in 1951 and contain than 100,000 people – was the a public park in the 1930s, and many decorative details from the site of a residential and industrial its highest point opens up to a historical buildings destroyed waste dump. Although no longer beautiful view of the low, wooden during the Second World War. actively used as a dump, over the architecture of the surrounding Even though today Bastejkalns is decades the accumulated waste neighbourhood – it’s an authentic a favourite place for a romantic grew into a hill that’s now 35.5 slice of 19th-century Riga. stroll, it is also the site of a tragic metres high.

49 TREES

Trees are like green jewels – and trees around it have died. Latvians common tree in Riga, however, is also natural doctors – for a city, highly value the sap of birches, the linden, or lime. It’s considered and they’ve always been a domi- which they tap as soon as the a tree of love and family as well nant feature of Riga. But trees ground begins to thaw in spring as a symbol of femininity. There- also carry significant symbolic – it’s full of valuable minerals, fore, Latvian families have always meaning in Latvian culture. For and Latvians call it the drink of planted a linden when a girl is example, due to its beauty and health. During birch sap season, born...and an oak if a boy is born. gentle touch, Latvians have always you can buy bottles of it (slightly According to the local mytho- associated the birch with the fermented and flavoured with logy, a linden can also ward off concepts of home and homeland. raisins and some lemon peel) at lightning and absorb a person’s Like Latvians themselves, the all the farmers’ markets in Riga,39 illnesses. birch has a distinct will to live. and the drink stays fresh until the The birch will survive even if other beginning of summer. The most

50 LILACS

The lilacs bloom for only a short time – three weeks – but it is during this time that the city truly blossoms, falling into a swoon of sweet sin. Nothing blooms as vividly and with such a heady and life-affirming aroma as lilacs, and it’s no wonder they’re considered a symbol of youth and family. Latvians believe that if you find and eat (!) a five-petalled lilac flower in the springtime – then all your wishes will come true. Every local child knows this,40 so don’t be surprised if you see people oddly searching for something in the lilac bushes, as if they’ve gotten lost.

Lilacs have also been memorialised in artwork and design. The motif was once a favou- rite decorative element on the porcelain and faience dishes made by the legendary Kuznetsov Porcelain Factory (established in 1841), which today are highly valued collector’s items.

51 ART AND CULTURE INSTITUTIONS40

52 LATVIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART

In May 2016, after several years sitions, visitors get a glimpse of gious art spaces in Riga and an of major renovation, the main the glass-covered museum ware- important stop for understanding building of the Latvian National house, which holds a part of the contemporary art processes. Museum of Art (LNMM; lnmm. museum’s collection. The collec- lv), located at 1 Jaņa Rozen- tion covers art from the early 19th Another structural unit of the tāla Square, was opened again century to the late 20th century. LNMM, the Riga Bourse Art to visitors. The exterior of the Museum, is also located in Old building, originally built in 1905, The museum’s permanent exhi- Riga, at 6 Cathedral Square. remains untouched. But an bition, displayed in the old part Architecturally, the building organic synergy of two diffe- of the building, traces the deve- unambiguously calls to mind the 41rent eras is revealed behind lopment of Latvian fine art. One Venetian palazzo style. Inside, it the Historicism-style façade. of the highlights is the museum’s holds Latvia’s largest collection Inside, the historical core of the collection of work by well-known of foreign art, beginning with the museum has been preserved, constructivist Gustav Klutsis 5th century BC all the way to the with many once-forgotten (Gustavs Klucis). But the museum early 20th century. elements given new life; at is also notable for being the only the same time, contemporary place in Riga to see a perma- Still another part of the LNMM architectural features have also nent exhibition presenting local is found at 10/20 Skārņu Street, become an integral part of the art processes of the late 20th right next to St. Peter’s Church. overall form. A gleaming, golden century. The Museum of Decorative staircase connects the old part Arts and Design contains seven of the building with the new The Arsenāls Exhibition Hall of individual collections: textiles, museum spaces, where minima- the LNMM is located at 1 Torņa ceramics, metal art, leather art, list concrete dominates. When Street, very near Riga Castle and decorative wood art, glass art and heading to the main exhibition the Saeima (Parliament) building. design. hall, which hosts changing expo- This is one of the most presti-

53 ART INSTITUTIONS

Contemporary art is one of the One of the oldest non-govern- Based on the private collection elements that gives modern mental cultural and art institu- of Dina and Jānis Zuzāns, who are urban cultural life a provocative, tions in Latvia is Noass, or Noah well-known patrons of the arts experimental flavour, urging in English (www.noass.lv), which in Latvia, the Mūkusala Art Salon people to look at what’s happe- is located on a débarcadère, or (www.mmsalons.lv) is the only ning in our world from a comple- landing stage, moored to the AB private exhibition space in Riga. tely different perspective. Dambis jetty in the Daugava River. The couple strives to create a Noass’ focus is on the moving portrait of Latvian art, so, logi- The kim? Contemporary Art image, and its extensive archive of cally, their space hosts regular Centre has established a home video art is particularly valuable. art exhibitions focussing on for itself in a former candy factory Noass’ video art festival, titled42 vivid, compelling phenomena in at 2 Sporta Street (kim.lv) in Riga. Ūdensgabali, is popular among art Latvian art. In Latvian the name is an abbre- circles and is the only such event viation for the rhetorical question in the Baltics. During the summer season, the “kas ir māksla?”, or “what is art?”. corner of Kalnciema and Meln- Since it began in 2009, kim? has Riga Art Space (Rīgas mākslas sila streets (36/38 Kalnciema focussed not only on organising telpa; makslastelpa.lv), a multi- Street) becomes one of the city’s exhibitions of Latvian and foreign functional centre for art and epicentres of visual art. Here, at artists but also on defining and culture located under Town Hall its so-called “summer home”, interpreting the essence of art Square in Old Riga, collaborates the Art Needs Space foundation through discussions, lectures with other art institutions to (makslaivajagtelpu.lv) organises a and educational programmes for regularly hold a wide range of series of small-format, conceptual children and youth. contemporary art events. exhibitions.

54 ”One of the oldest non-governmental cultural and art institutions in Latvia is Noass, or Noah in English (www.noass.lv), which is located on a débarcadère, or landing stage, moored to the AB Dambis jetty in the Daugava River. Noass’ focus is on the moving image, and its extensive archive of video art is particularly valuable. Noass’ video art festival, titled Ūdensgabali, is popular among art circles and is the only such event in the Baltics.

”

Momenti.lv55 ETHNOGRAPHIC OPEN-AIR MUSEUM

A visit to the Latvian Ethnogra- Vidzeme, Latgale) that have been weekend of June, when for almost phic Open-Air Museum is like a recognised as superb examples of fifty years now craftsmen and trip back to a world long before the country’s cultural and histo- artists from all over Latvia have the invention of the automobile, rical heritage. They have been been gathering at the museum to when only food and drink from disassembled, transported to the participate in its annual fair. Huge one’s own land was put on the museum and then painstakingly crowds flock to the museum, all table and each farmstead wove reassembled to form a number of abuzz with excitement, because its own sheets and blankets. The authentic farmsteads. Here you’ll everyone is looking to buy that museum was founded in 1924 find typical peasant houses and special woven rug or textile, piece and covers 87 hectares. Here barns, craftsmen’s workshops, of jewellery, ceramic dish or other visitors can wander the seemingly windmills, smithies, potters’ kilns43 ware. Because Latvian craftsman endless network of paths, stroll and tar kilns. In some of the buil- are known for their craftsmanship along the banks of Jugla Lake, or dings it is also possible to observe and high quality of work, the easily find a quiet corner to have craftsmen creating wonderful museum has also established a a picnic under the pines without objects according to old, tradi- new tradition – every year, on the being bothered by other people. tional techniques. second Saturday and Sunday of August, it hosts the Contempo- The museum contains 118 old The most festive moment of rary Crafts Festival. buildings from all regions of the year at the Ethnographic Latvia (Kurzeme, Zemgale, Open-Air Museum is the first

56 ”The museum contains 118 old buildings from all regions of Latvia (Kurzeme, Zemgale, Vidzeme, Latgale) that have been recognised as superb examples of the country’s cultural and historical heritage. They have been disassembled, transported to the museum and then painstakingly reassembled to form a number of authentic farmsteads.

57 ” RAILWAY MUSEUM

The Latvian Railway History Muse- collection of photographs reflects tury railway repair shop complete um (railwaymuseum.lv) located at both existing and former railway with an improvised platform, from 2/4 Uzvaras Boulevard holds the stations, bridges, lines, locomo- which museum visitors arrive in largest trove of records related to tives and wagons that were once the waiting room of the station the railway industry in Latvia. The used in Latvia. In addition, the and the offices of the stationmas- museum also owns the largest museum has a wide range of ter, cashier and agent on duty. collection of broad-gauge railway industry-related printed materials: Visitors can also climb into the vehicles (locomotives, railroad train lists, tickets, various books driver’s compartment and engine cars, wagons, etc.) in the Baltics. and brochures, periodicals, hon- room of a diesel locomotive, in- The museum encompasses the orary certificates, invitations and spect electric and steam locomo- history of the Latvian railway, other printed matter that contains44 tives at close range, and gaze into with expositions covering topics information no longer available a passenger car from the 1930s. from station architecture to the anywhere else. life of its employees. Its extensive The museum features a 19th-cen-

PAULS STRADIŅŠ MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF MEDICINE

Few people know that the buil- Professor Pauls Stradiņš. The the intuitive medical practices ding at 1 Antonijas Street in Riga museum’s collection contains of the Stone Age, testifies to the holds one of the three largest over 200,000 artifacts and covers oldest surgical operation (trepa- medical history museums in all medical fields; the perma- nation) and tells about the harsh the world. It was founded in nent exposition takes visitors on reality of magical medicine and 1957 by one of the most legen- a journey that leads to various medieval therapies. 45dary medical doctors in Latvia, ages and places. It illustrates

58 The museum introduces visitors One of the most interesting mount of the dog Chernushka is to medical discoveries and the places in the museum is the hall also on display here; she ventured rapid progress of medicine from dedicated to outer-space biology into space in 1961, a full month the 18th to the 20th century, and and medicine. It features an before Yuri Gagarin. also emphasises the history and historical astronaut’s suit, take-off achievements of medical deve- and landing chairs, and a capsule lopments in Latvia. used to send dogs into space. A

RAINIS AND ASPAZIJA HOUSE

Rainis and Aspazija were the Rainis and Aspazija settled in kitchen at mealtimes, and from most legendary of Latvian literary 1926, became their last joint resi- time to time the telephone in unions. Rainis (1865–1929) was dence in Riga. Rainis lived here Rainis’ room rings. Lines of the an intellectual Social Democrat, until his death in 1929; Aspazija couple’s poetry are used as an a champion of Latvian national lived at this address until 1933. interior design element and let identity, a translator, playwright visitors immerse themselves in and poet. His wife, Aspazija (1865– To preserve their legacy, both the creative heritage left by these 1943), was a feminist and one of poets had expressed a desire giants of the literary world. the most vivid women in Latvian that their house eventually 46society around the turn of the be transformed into a memo- One of the main features in 20th century; she was also a poet rial museum. The exposition is the Rainis and Aspazija memo- with a volcanic personality. It is created as a lifelike living space, rial house is the library, which quite difficult to talk about one where the presence of Rainis contains 6067 books in 14 without mentioning the other. and Aspazija feels quite real. The languages as well as 2900 issues poets’ shadows slide from room of various periodicals. The 19th-century wooden house to room, a piano plays in the at 30 Baznīcas Street, where background, dishes clink in the

59 RIGA MOTOR MUSEUM

The Riga Motor Museum, located (Augusts Krastiņš). the museum particularly exci- at 6 Sergeja Eizenšteina Street, is ting. For example, when boarding the largest antique car museum Another of the museum’s a PAZ bus, they travel back to in the Baltics. It contains over 146 highlights is its own so-called 1975 and experience a trip to a exhibits in a space covering 4,000 “Kremlin collection”, which joyous wedding on a kolkhoz. square meters. The exhibits are includes, among other things, Visitors can also drive in a virtual grouped together in 11 different former Soviet leader Leonid parade and be photographed categories and form a multi- Brezhnev’s Rolls-Royce Silver in a Kremlin car. A special prog- layered narrative that allows Shadow and the ZIS-115S that ramme lets children learn about visitors to follow the history of Joseph Stalin used to ride in. The the history of the automobile in a cars not only in Latvia but worl- museum also has a Auto Union 60-minute guided tour. They can dwide and discover how the V16. This car, used in hill-climb47 also obtain a bicycle licence at automobile became an integral racing in the 1930s, provided one the museum. The child-friendly part of everyday life. The muse- of the main impulses for founding museum has lounge areas with um’s greatest treasure is a car the Riga Motor Museum. various games as well as a play that has survived for more than a corner for children. century – it was manufactured in The museum’s multimedia the United States in 1903 by Latvi- expositions invite visitors to take an-born carmaker August Krastin active part and make a visit to

60 SPLENDID PALACE

Located at 61 Elizabetes Street, since 1923, when Splendid Palace the theatre has stood out from Splendid Palace is the oldest and was unveiled to the public. The the crowd with its fine selection most ornate cinema theatre in theatre could accommodate 824 of movies, and this tradition Riga. Moreover, it was the first cinema-goers and was the most continues to the present day. The building in the city created speci- modern cinema in the Baltics. schedule consists of high-qu- fically for the cinematograph. ality auteur cinema as well as It features sophisticated archi- In October 1929, The Singing Fool art-house films from Europe and tectural details, allegorical wall (USA, 1928, directed by Lloyd elsewhere that have drawn acco- and ceiling paintings, and sculp- Bacon) was shown at Splendid lades at film festivals around the tural palm branches framing the Palace and was the first motion world. screen in the Great Hall. In fact, picture with sound to be shown almost nothing has changed here in the region. Since its inception,48 ART GALLERIES

Art galleries are significant “way holds exhibitions of contempo- ), located at 70 Stabu Street and points” to current art processes rary art as well as expositions founded by the artists Kaspars in Riga, and the solo and group dedicated to the grand old names Groševs and Ieva Kraule, is defi- exhibitions they host allow visi- of Latvian art history. The Bastejs nitely one of the most provocative tors to become acquainted with Gallery, for its part, includes in its art spaces in Riga at the moment. significant personalities, trends programme exhibitions of artists Although there’s no guarantee and current events on the local from abroad, especially reviews of that it will always be open during cultural scene. artists from the Baltic region. normal business hours, it’s worth checking out in order to feel the The two oldest art galleries in Riga The Māksla XO Gallery (14 Eliz- vibe of the city’s new art scene. are the Daugava Gallery (at 1 Aus- abetes Street; www.makslaxog- The Low Gallery (www.facebook. ekļa Street in the Quiet Centre, alerija.lv) and Alma Gallery (www. com/lowgallery), initiated by artist in a building designed by Jānis galerija-alma.lv) are institutions Maija Kurševa and located at 115 49Frīdrihs Baumanis, the first Latvian that actively seek to represent art Ģertrūdes Street, opened in the educated as an architect; www. not only domestically but also on spring of 2017. Kurševa calls Low galerijadaugava.lv) and the Bastejs the international stage, by regu- Gallery the ideal place for spon- Gallery (at 7 Alksnāja Street in Old larly participating in international taneous ideas, new talents and Riga; www.bastejs.lv). The Daugava art fairs. the manifestation of the artistic Gallery focuses on a very broad process. range of Latvian art; it regularly The 427 Gallery (fourtoseven.info 61 ”..this place, where during the Second World War the dockworker Žanis Lipke hid 55 Jews in a three-metre-deep pit under his woodshed and thus saved their lives.

Just a few metres from where Lipke’s woodshed was located, the author of this museum project, Latvian architect Zaiga Gaile, has created an emotional and visually impressive memorial.

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” ŽANIS LIPKE MEMORIAL

The Žanis Lipke Memorial, project, Latvian architect Zaiga in the floor visitors peer into the located at 8 Mazais Balasta Gaile, has created an emotional basement bunker, where nine Dambis on the island of Ķīpsala, and visually impressive memo- plank bunks are mounted on the is one of the most hidden rial. Unveiled in 2012, it’s a space walls. The sound installation by museums in Riga. The small street with a strong aura at the end composer Jēkabs Nīmanis heigh- is sometimes even forgotten to of a dimly lit tunnel – a place tens the emotions. This is a place be included on maps. But incog- for reflection, meditation and where time suddenly becomes an nito status suits this place, where contemplation. The faint scent abstract concept, and it’s possible during the Second World War of wood tar can be felt in the air, to look into the past as if through the dockworker Žanis Lipke hid which calls to mind images of the the eyes of God. Only upon 5055 Jews in a three-metre-deep old fishermen’s huts on Ķīpsala. exiting the building does one fully pit under his woodshed and thus The visitors’ path leads through a appreciate its size – it resembles saved their lives. dusky labyrinth reminiscent of the Noah’s ark, which delivered the woodshed to the central memo- fortunate survivors to dry land Just a few metres from where rial hall in the building’s attic after the flood. Lipke’s woodshed was located, – this is the heart of the three- the author of this museum storey building. Through a hatch

63 RESTAURANTS, BARS AND CAFES

What are the national foods that every guest of Riga should try to find in the city’s stores, markets and restaurant menus? The answer can be confusing, because Latvian cuisine reflects influences from the cuisines of many other cultures. However, it seems that the locals knew how to take the best of these foods and culinary influences and adapt them to their own tastes.

64 WHAT TO TASTE IN RIGA

Grey peas – a food that has long one of the oldest cheese recipes red deer, elk, wild boar, caper- been forgotten elsewhere – are in Europe, and it goes particu- caillie, black grouse. Regarding especially popular in Latvia larly well with beer. Documen- fish, although it might come as around Christmas. They are served tary evidence of beer brewing in a surprise to visitors to Latvia, an with a bacon and onion sauce, Latvia dates back to the 13th–16th absolutely classic Latvian food and the dried peas can be bought centuries. is the wonderful trinity of sour at practically every grocery store cream (mixed with curd), boiled in the city. Considering that forests cover a potatoes and herring. 51large proportion of the country, it At the summer solstice, however, should come as no surprise that Latvians always eat Midsummer game is a special part of Latvian cheese with caraway seeds. It’s traditional cuisine: roe deer,

Rye bread is a truly traditional Latvian food and occupies a place of honour on the table. The hardy rye grain overwin- ters in Latvia’s fields; it then flowers for two weeks, ripens for two weeks and dries for two weeks. After that, it is harvested and used to bake that dark, hearty, nutritious, sourdough bread. 65 GOURMET RESTAURANTS

Riga’s gastronomy scene has Baltics. Locals, however, have long Tomsons, its long-standing managed to surprise more than known Vincents to be a legendary sommelier and the winner of the a few gourmand travellers. On fine-dining classic. 2017 European Sommelier Cham- the one hand, menus at the pionship. city’s best restaurants echo the Vincents was the first gourmet current trend for Nordic cuisine restaurant in Riga, and over the Bibliotēka No1 is a member of and seasonal eating; on the other 20+ years of its existence it has Riga’s younger generation of hand, the city’s multicultural hosted many prominent guests, gourmet restaurants. Its team soul is also definitely present. from Elton John to the Emperor masterfully combines tradition It’s the combination of these of Japan and Prince Charles. For with contemporary gastronomy, two aspects that makes for the many years, its head chef, Slow and the menu is as nuanced in sometimes surprising bouquet Food advocate Mārtiņš Rītiņš, 51flavours, colours and seasonality of flavours that can be found in was the brightest star on Latvia’s as the magnificent view outside Riga. The prestigious White Guide gastronomy scene. Vincents its windows – Vērmanes Garden, Nordic restaurant guide named continues the traditions Rītiņš Rigas’s most beautiful public park. the Riga restaurant Vincents as established there, although now a top-rank establishment in the under the leadership of Raimonds

Bibliotēka No 1 Vincents 66 THE FLAVOUR OF CONTEMPORARY LATVIA

What kind of flavour bouquet club – that is, the restaurants led be found in foods that include best describes contemporary by the country’s most outstan- products like rowan berries, Latvia? How do old traditions ding culinary masters, such as acorns, ramps, sorrel, hemp mingle with contemporary Entresol (Elizabetes iela 22; butter, Baltic herring, dumplings culinary innovations? Searching entresol.lv), Kolonāde: Mūsu stāsti and much more. Meals created for the flavour of contemporary (Brīvības bulvāris 26; kolonade. according to the principles of this Latvia has become one of the lv), Ferma (Valkas iela 7; fermares- cuisine not only taste good, are of 52most exciting activities and topics torans.lv) and Muusu (Skārņu iela high quality and take health and of study on Riga’s gastronomy 6; muusu.lv) – prove that local good nutrition into consideration; scene. Latvian products and produce developing and enjoying such can be used in very original foods also supports local farmers Menus at the members of the and unusual ways. The flavour and producers. “Contemporary Latvian Cuisine” of contemporary Latvia can

Ferma Muusu 67 THE FLAVOURS 54OF NATURE

How does one “lock” the true flavours of nature into a dish? This is currently one of the biggest challenges Riga’s chefs have taken on. In addition to following the current trend of creating menus that contain only seasonal produce grown in Latvia, a host of chefs has chosen to take it one step further, by turning to products that grow wild in nature, without human intervention. If you know what it’s like to snack on a handful of cloudberries fresh from the marsh or are familiar with the taste of wood sorrel picked from a forest glade, now you can also experience these flavours at a number of restaurants in Riga.

For instance the chefs at Resto- only make use of products that tion, the natural flavours of rāns 3 (3 Kalēju Street; restau- naturally grow in this climate, chanterelles or summer squash, rant3.lv), have demonstrated and so he searches for everyt- eel or pike perch, guinea fowl the amazing diversity of dishes hing in the country’s forests and or game is always present. Enjoy that can be created from birch meadows that was once deemed the riches of the Baltic Sea and juice syrup, cloudberries, forest edible by our ancestors. local freshwater waterways at mushrooms or even beaver tail. the Le Dome (4 Miesnieku Street; The chef at Valmiermuižas Alus The menu created by chef of zivjurestorans.lv) fish restaurant. virtuve (9a Aristīda Briāna Street; Valtera restorāns (8 Miesnieku Whether preparing Latvian stur- valmiermuiza.lv), for his part, Street; valterarestorans.lv) is geon caviar or turbot, the chef is a closely follows the seasons and as changeable as the seasons. virtuoso working in his niche. the natural produce they bring Although it includes a certain forth. He challenges himself to amount of creative improvisa- 1.Restorāns 3 2.Valmiermuižas alus 3.Le Dome 4.Valtera restorāns 68 1 2

3 4 69 WATERSIDE RESTAURANTS

Riga is blessed with lots of water- centre. Here you’ll find a cluster time-worn industrial ambience, front access – the Daugava River of restaurants, cafés and clubs. graffiti and innovative gastronomy runs through the middle of the The oldest of these institutions is – Andrejosta is an urban romantic city, and there are lakes around Koya (Andrejostas iela 4; koyares- experience full of contrasts. the edges of the city. Visiting each taurant.com). Other well-known body of water is like a journey names are the restaurant, bar and A completely different, almost within a journey, because each lounge Aqua Luna (Andrejostas has a different character and a iela 4; aqualuna.lv) and Muusu meditative waterside scene is vastly different feel. Terase (Eksporta iela 1A; muusu. found at the golf club restaurant lv/muusu-terase), which serves Ozo (Mīlgrāvja iela 16; ozogolf.lv) One of the most built-up water- contemporary Latvian cuisine.55 on the banks of tranquil, beautiful front areas in Riga is Andrejosta, Modern design and seagulls in Ķīšezers Lake. a bit to the north of the city the air, yachts passing by and a

Aqua Luna 70 55

Garage Easy Wine bar WINE BARS

For several years already, the 31; modernists.lv). The modernist cinema. The bar and restaurant is popular bar/restaurant Vīna Bauhaus-style boutique bar and located next to Splendid Palace, Studija (vinastudija.lv), which store focuses on so-called grower Riga’s oldest and most ornate boasts a collection of several champagnes, or champagne made movie theatre, and features a hundred wines from various by small producers. wine collection representing 20 regions around the world, has countries around the world as helped to guide wine culture The drinks menu in Garage wine well as Spanish-inspired snacks. in Riga. It has several locations bar (Elizabetes iela 83/85; garage. throughout the city, but all of lv) features wines from Argentina, The Easy Wine bar (Audēju iela them are united by a stylish yet Germany, Italy and France, which 4; easywine.lv) offers a different 56democratic interior design. Well- can be enjoyed together with concept – service according to the known architect and wine aficio- some wonderful food as well – all no pre-payment wine-card prin- nado Mārtiņš Pīlēns participated in an environment inspired by the ciple. Just place the card in the in the creation of Vīna Studija, but garage. Meanwhile, the passion wine dispenser, and your glass will he has since moved on to a new at another wine space in Riga, be filled with one of 60 different project, Modernists (K. Barona Tinto (Elizabetes iela 61; tinto.lv), is wines on offer. 71 BEST BEER SPOTS

Riga is an intriguing destination tional British bitter) or “Kapracis” muiža’s own vision of the perfect for beer lovers. In addition to the (Gravedigger, a beer that calls to beer and food combinations. traditional pubs, it’s worth paying mind the smell and taste of the Meanwhile, the beer bar Taka attention to the places that brew smouldering remains of a fire). (10 Miera Street; facebook.com/ their own beer, most often in a takabars), where music, culture special space at the back of the For over a decade now, Valmier- and board games live together bar or pub. One such place is the muižas alus (9 A. Briāna Street; harmoniously, is notable for Labietis brewery (9a-2 A. Briāna valmiermuiza.lv) has been consi- its very unique range of beers, Street; labietis.lv), which offers a dered one of the best breweries focussing mainly on the truly number of beer varieties divided in Latvia. You’ll find almost its small breweries of Latvia and 57into “families”, depending on the entire range of beers available at their individual flavours. strength of beer. Each of these the brewery’s so-called “embassy has a quirky name, such as “Soho in Riga”, which also features a Švītiņš” (Soho Dandy, a tradi- restaurant presenting Valmier-

72 Labietis

Taka Valmiermuižas alus73 BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Years ago, Riga was the most lively revellers prefer the long-standing very heart of Riga’s Art Nouveau of all the Baltic capitals in terms B-Bārs (2 Dome Square; bbars.lv), district. Slightly further out – in of its nightclub scene and many while those who favour a more the creative quarter known as the professional DJs. Today, the city’s relaxed and warm atmosphere Miera Street Republic – many an bars and nightclubs have each won’t want to miss a night out at intellectual, following a stiff and focussed on creating their own Omas Briljants (7 Audēju Street; serious meeting or conference, unique image and atmosphere omasbriljans.lv). will not hesitate to step into the that best suits their intended alternative beer bar Walters & audience, so local club-goers These days, however, the lively bar Grapa (19 Miera Street), only to know more or less what they can and nightclub scene has shifted later head on for some dancing expect from each club. past the boulevard circle, and58 at the city’s most fiery rock bar, for the past few years the most Nemiers (9a Aristīda Briāna Street; Many a tourist has spent an unfor- prestigious player on the scene nemiers.lv). gettable night in one of Old Riga’s has been Bārs XII (1a Strēlnieku establishments. The more refined Street; bar13.lv), located in the

RIGA’S HIP HANGOUTS

On the map of European hipster permeates the air, and there are miit.lv), which was one of Riga’s sub-culture, Riga has a number of acoustic concerts, poetry readings first “velo cafés” and still conti- times been awarded the title of and lectures in the evenings. One nues this tradition. There’s also a hipster capital. Although there are of the more popular spots is DAD centre for motor scooter enthu- signs of hipster culture throug- Cafe (17 Miera Street; dadcafe.lv) – siasts and those who adhere to hout the city, its epicentre is Miera a place for tranquillity and bohe- the cult of the iconic Italian brand Street. This is the home of many mian inspiration that’s famous for Vespa – Vespa Garazh at 4 Valkas hip spots: design and fashion its Thursday evening concerts. Street (vespas.lv) provides scooter stores, cool hairdressing salons, maintenance, a scooter rental tea houses and vegetarian cafés. Another unique hipster meeting service and a Vespa-style bar. 59An alternative outlook on life place is MiiT (10 Lāčplēša Street; 74 Sooner or later all of Riga’s and the newest trends in tattoos. by Mazā Kaņepe, the café of the hipster roads lead to the Vest bar At the same time, enjoy a hearty Kaņepes Culture Centre (28 Skolas (1 Stabu Street; facebook.com/ meal and good brew as well as a Street; facebook.com/mazaka- VestRiga), where all the notable fleeting glance at the TV, which nepe). The air smells of incense, celebrities of this particular style regularly screens live sports and lunch is usually finished off gather. Here you can check out broadcasts. Hipsters who are also with a sizable piece of cake. the latest “barber style” haircuts cultural gourmands often drop

75 MARKETS

Rigans have always enjoyed – and life and very eclectic. Here you year round. Although set in the succeeded – at trade, both selling can renew your zest for life, yet shade of apple trees and against and buying. To this day, despite you may also be slightly disen- a backdrop of restored wooden the wide range of supermarkets in chanted – whatever the case, buildings, the market’s strongest Riga, locals still include shopping it’s possible to find some real drawcard is the quality offered at the variety of markets that the gems among the junk. When you by the merchants. Here you’ll city offers as part of their daily learn to look with a critical eye find lots of local, organically routine. and recognise the good stuff, grown produce, including some shopping at the Central Market more “exotic” goods, such as Of course, the main market in can turn into a real gastronomic60 melons and watermelons grown Riga is the Central Market (7 adventure. At the same time, you in Latvia, and lesser-known treats, Nēģu Street; rct.lv). It’s one of the can also have a bit of a feast and for example, a Latvian version of largest European city market- savour the local flavours for free. Hong Kong bubble waffles and places and is also unique because How? Simply by showing an inte- carrot gelato. Other one-of-a-kind of its extraordinary architecture. rest and asking for a taste. objects can also be found at the The cluster of market booths and Kalnciema Quarter market, from stands in this area is located right A different type of market shop- traditional crafts created by local next to five impressive central ping experience is offered at the artisans to things with a distinctly buildings that were once used farmers’ and artisans’ market contemporary design. as hangars for German Zeppelin in Kalnciema Quarter (35 Kaln- airships during the First World ciema Street; kalnciema.lv), which War. Riga Central Market is full of takes place every Saturday all

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77 FASHION AND DESIGN40

ImageHouse 78 STYLISH SOUVENIRS

Finding a meaningful souvenir Riga, designed in 1980 by artist clock whose face is decorated is a challenge in any metropolis, Valdis Celms. You’ll see more than with details from various works especially in this time of over- just a couple of locals wearing of art, or the t-shirts paraphrasing saturated consumer culture. An the popular shirt! the timeless paintings of Kārlis even bigger challenge is creating Padegs, a legendary dandy and souvenirs that are popular not The LNMM Brand Foundation, for outsider of the Latvian art world. only among tourists but also its part, is devoted to popularising The foundation has also created among local residents. And yet the Latvian National Museum of a unique shoe collection inspired Riga has managed to do just this! Art collection. It regularly creates by the Latvian modernist Niklāvs lines of souvenirs based on repro- Strunke. The “Rīga” t-shirts designed by ductions of artwork found in the 61Miesai have become something museum’s permanent collection If you are looking for more tradi- of an urban style icon. The logo or exhibited in temporary exhibi- tional city souvernirs that are contains a reference to the large- tions. Each souvenir is like a work stylish and useful at the same scale “Rīga” signs on the side of of art in itself, with its own story time, visit the Riga Tourist Infor- three major roads leading into and purpose. For example, the mation Center (Ratslaukums 6).

ACTIVE LIFESTYLE ACCESSORIES

In Latvia, a rebirth of classical and 1990s can now been seen And for the children, Brum Brum values and a rethinking of design on the streets in a more modern has developed a fresh, new to meet the needs of today’s and sought-after longboard design for small balance bikes. users have come to characterise version. The most notable addi- A single screw makes assembly the manufacture of inventory and tion to skateboard culture today, and disassembly unbelievably accessories for an active lifestyle. however, is Lokal Boards, a manu- simple and easy, and the unique facturer of handcrafted skate- U-shaped birch frame is made to A 20th-century icon is making a boards defined by their laconic, protect young riders’ backs from comeback in the Latvian capital contemporary and stylish design potholes. The wheels are safe for – the classic Ripo skateboards that calls to mind the aesthetics little fingers as well. made by the Sarkanā Zvaigzne of old-school hippie surf culture. moped manufacturer in the 1980s 62 79 CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

Jewellery is a language all its include attractive post-moder- always distinctly functional. own, and Latvian contemporary nist compositions, historicism jewellery artists have an excel- and also free interpretations of The Putti art gallery in Old Riga lent, refined command of this forms found in nature. No matter is a mainstay of the Latvian language. Each of them stands whether using precious gems, contemporary jewellery tradition. out with a vividly individual semi-precious stones, precious Established in 2000, it organises style, their sources of inspiration metals, ebony, coral, lava rock powerful, compelling exhibitions ranging from cultural history or amber, Latvian artists display and is thus also recognised on the and ethnographic elements an elegant feeling for material. international stage. At Putti you’ll from around the world to the Although at first glance much of find the essence of jewellery clean lines and asceticism of the the jewellery resembles minia- created by Latvia’s best contem- Bauhaus style. Their creations ture sculptures, the design is63 also porary jewellery designers. DESIGN AND LIFESTYLE STORES

Just like Latvian design itself, traditions yet also incorporate kolekcionars.com), for its part, the places where this design is modern solutions into their work. takes a different approach to represented are also vibrant and The store sells everything from Latvian design by combining an exciting. Riga’s galleries, stores bed linens, towels and free- art café, a store and a parade and design spaces masterfully flowing garments made of refined, of Latvian design all in one. The combine Latvian identity, which washed linen to original furniture, design objects fulfil their true involves a system of cultural dishes and lighting objects. calling here – they are not only codes developed over hundreds displayed for viewing but are of years, with a contemporary The ETMO gallery (Arsenāla iela actually tangible and usable. feeling for the world. 7, etmo.lv) also maintains a close This means that lamps made by 64relationship with traditional Latvian designers hang from the The design and lifestyle store Latvian crafts, emphasising the ceiling and hold real lightbulbs, RIIJA (Tērbatas iela 6/8, riija.lv) is use of ethnographic motifs in spoons clink on the plates, and the largest platform for contem- contemporary design. Textiles hot coffee steams in the cups. In porary Latvian design. Here you’ll made in Latvian weavers’ studios addition, the collection is always find work by internationally form a significant part of the being added to and changes recognised Latvian designers wares for sale at ETMO. along with new trends in Latvian as well as the best from local design. craftsmen, who continue the old Kolekcionārs (Blaumaņa iela 7, 80 ETMO

LATVIAN CONTEMPORARY FURNITURE DESIGN

Latvian contemporary furniture able to speak the language of rooted in the Latvian aesthetic design is marked by a northern design and that furniture is not and old crafts traditions. minimalism and functionality, just something chosen to match which includes designs that can a room. Its pieces are expressive One interesting aspect of the best be configured, modified and and self-sufficient in their own contemporary furniture designed combined in various ways to alter right. in Latvia is that it looks just as their form. good whether in a living room 65Rihards Funts (one of Latvia’s or a kitchen. In addition, many The Mint line of furniture has most progressive contemporary pieces of children’s furniture are entered both the Latvian and designers) and the Latvian design designed in order to grow along international markets with a bang. studio Rijada also adhere to the with the child. A fine example of It has been inspired by some idea that only by using existing this is the SO:LO transformable of the world’s best examples of components and putting them children’s object created by Aija design as well as by modernist together in different combina- Priede-Sietiņa and Daneks Sietiņš and brutalist architecture. Mint tions does the new and unusual of Kukuu and lauded by design proves that functionality is still arise. Rijada’s designs are often enthusiasts. 81 Mr. Page 82 CONCEPT BOOKSTORES

Each with its own character a love letter to all of the great (21a K. Barona Street; niceplace.lv) and smell, Riga’s bookstores books in the world”. The books – book illustrator Zane Ernštreite are like small, self-sufficient here have been carefully selected and linguist Valts Ernštreits – are worlds in which the selection and come from many different both very familiar with books on the shelves is curated with publishing houses (both large and have created a true space for the passion of a collector. And, and small), shops and exhibi- inspiration in their store. Authors despite the oversaturation of the tions from around the world. Mr. and poets show up here regularly digital age, their popularity just Page’s bookshelves carry books as well, perhaps generating ideas keeps on growing, thereby confir- about art, popular science, pop for new work right amongst the ming that this is truly a time of culture and lifestyle as well as bookshelves. NicePlace TELPA exciting niche publications. recent publications dedicated to sells good literature by local 66Instagram and Snapshot, innova- authors as well as literature in The concept bookstore Mr. Page tive photo albums and new litera- translation. It also has a variety of (4 Miera Street; facebook.com/ ture from Latvia and abroad. wonderfully inspiring stationery mrpagebookstore) adheres to and souvenirs made by Latvian the motto “a bookstore is like The owners of NicePlace TELPA designers.

NATURAL COSMETICS BRANDS

At a time when ‘healthy lifestyle’ alternative manufacturer but an intense moisturising cream has become a mantra, there’s has since grown into an inter- infused with northern peony and also more and more demand for national company. It uses some flaxseed antioxidants and hyalu- natural cosmetics. And you’re of the most powerful natural ronic acid, Madara harnesses the sure to find the Latvian brand antioxidants found in forests and special healing qualities found in Madara Cosmetics among the woodlands to make its products. plants that have been growing in most popular cosmetics concept Whether it’s a rich but gentle this cool, harsh, northern climate stores. Madara began as a small, foam with yarrow extract or67 for thousands of years.

83 LATVIAN FASHION BRANDS

Latvian fashion brands are beco- mark Prize in 2016. The brand has also become quite popular. For ming more and more popular participated in the Paris Men’s example, child actress Kylie in the local market, and they’re Fashion Week since 2012. Rogers wore a dress designed becoming noticed elsewhere in by Lazy Francis at the premiere the world as well. The Elīna Dobele footwear brand of David Frankel’s film Collateral designed by architect Elīna Beauty in New York. And the Mareunrol’s was listed as one of Dobele is a favourite not only in brand’s Silent Circus collection the top 100 best new contempo- Latvia and the Baltics but also was created with the approval rary designers by the prestigious further afield in Europe and Asia. Charlie Chaplin’s family. Phaidon publishing house in its All of its shoes are handmade, 2013 almanac Pattern. In addi- each pair of shoes has a special The luxury brand Aristocrat tion to fashion, Mareunrol’s has name, and their design is often68 Kids, whose signature collec- also made a vivid entrance in inspired by architecture. Perhaps tion consists of fairytale-worthy the fields of scenography, video it’s no surprise that Dobele dresses for girls, can be found in art and photography. It won the approaches footwear as if she exclusive shopping destinations, main prize at the International were creating miniature houses including Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo Fashion and Photography Festival for feet. and Harrods in London, for which in Hyères and was among the ten it has even created a special finalists for the legendary Wool- Latvian children’s fashion has collection.

CONCEPT STORES

There is a strong tradition of The largest platform for Latvian has also been operating a pop-up fashion design in Latvia, and fashion design is the Paviljons store in Berlin, where it acts as an wearing clothing by local desig- concept store (Shopping centre ambassador for Latvian fashion. ners is a matter of both style and Domina, paviljons.com). With its pride for Rigans. Latvian fashion eclectic approach, it’s an inspi- concept stores, each with its own ring address for those who enjoy character and style, have also rapidly changing street fashion as played their part in popularising well as those who prefer classic 69local fashion. cuts and designs. In recent years it 84 Imagehouse (Brīvības iela 40) is of coffee or glass of wine with our The newest and most ambitious the first and largest combined gourmet style starters & desserts. of Riga’s fashion stores is BOLD design concept in Riga offering (www.boldconceptstore.lv), whose interior design, high & contempo- M50 (Miera iela 17; m50.lv) offers goal is to become the biggest rary fashion and a cafe. a considerably more democratic platform for exclusive Baltic This concept store breaks the approach to Latvian fashion design. Here you’ll find the most borders between the different design. Many of the things for sale exciting names in local design as design scenes to offer guests a here are handmade and one-of- well as clothing from intriguing creative shopping experience. a-kind. In addition, many artists designers from the two neighbou- Here you can find a unique selec- have chosen M50 to be the sole ring Baltic countries. tion of internationally known representative of their work, so Interior fashion brands You are their creations cannot be found also very welcome to enjoy a cup anywhere else in Riga.

Image House 85 LATVIAN DESIGN IN THE WORLD

Glass, linen and wax – these are her brand Studio Natural – which Organisation as the best packa- three materials that, masterfully combines tradition, handicraft ging in the world. The brand now interpreted, have allowed Latvian and unusual, explicitly contem- creates exclusive items for the designers to gain international porary design – has caught the home that have been designed recognition. eye of Italian fashion master by Zane Tetere-Šulce, a locally Giorgio Armani. Studio Natural’s and internationally renowned Artis Nīmanis, the designer at products have repeatedly been architect. Its products feature an&angel, uses a special tech- exhibited in the Maison & Objet clean lines, and they continue to nique he has developed to give trade fair for interior design in be hand-made of natural mate- glass a seemingly metal-like Paris as well as at design fairs in rials by skilled craftsmen: weavers, appearance. Having taken on the Japan. The brand specialises70 in blacksmiths and potters. Munio qualities of stainless steel, the linen home textiles featuring a Home franchise stores can be glass reflects the surrounding variety of textures, linen scarves found worldwide, and the brand environment, while the inside of in finely nuanced tones and clot- also takes part in the prestigious the vessels brings to mind copper, hing with the “noble, wrinkled” Maison & Objet and Abitare 100% silver and even gold. An&angel look so characteristic of linen. Project design fairs in Paris and has won the prestigious Red Dot Verona, respectively. and German Design awards. Its Munio Home started out vessels are also in the collection by designing a line of fine, of the Latvian National Museum handmade, soy-wax candles. Their of Art. special packaging, made of recy- cled cardboard, was even recog- Textile artist Laima Kaugure and nised by the World Packaging

”Studio Natural’s products have repe- atedly been exhibited in the Maison & Objet trade fair for interior design in Paris as well as at design fairs in Japan. The brand specialises in linen home textiles featuring a variety of textures, linen scarves in finely nuanced tones and clothing with the “noble, wrinkled” look so characteristic of linen. 86 ” 70 ATCIVE LIFESTYLE

WAKEBOARDING IN RIGA

The range of water activities avai- structures (a slide, pipe, funbox, ners as well as professionals. In lable in Riga has grown in the past half ramp, kickers) for various addition, the park offers many decade to also include wake- wakeboarding tricks, specialists in other outdoor activities to choose boarding, with wake parks and the sport have deemed it one of from. But the true adrenaline and wakeboarding spots opening up the best parks in the Baltics. active leisure fans will enjoy the one after the other in the Latvian Closest to the city centre are the multi-functional complex 333. capital. Riga Wake Lucavsala and Wake It’s located in about 20 min drive The Wakeyou cable wake park 24 cable wake parks. The former away from the city center and is is located very near the Riga is located in the Lucavsala Recre- perfect for a day of adrenaline on Airport, literally under low-flying ation Park near the Salu Bridge water. aircraft. With several special and has equipment for begin- 71 87 SAILING

Sailing as a recreational and on the Daugava River in central dry-docked in Mīlgravis. professional sport has been Riga. taking place in Latvian waters The yacht clubs and boat for over a century. July is usually A wide range of sailing and moorings are also prominent the most active month for sailing motorised watercraft can be seen points of city life in Riga. The competitions, when many Latvian in the waters of Riga on a daily Andrejosta Yacht Club is located sailors take part in international basis during the sailing season. It next to the ferry terminal on the regattas. Competitions, champi- is precisely water transportation right bank of the Daugava River in onships and regattas are also held that opens the door to expe- the city centre, and on summer annually on the Daugava River riences that are otherwise hidden evenings it even has a touch of and Ķīšezers Lake in Riga. When to everyday life on dry land: see the Mediterranean. On the oppo- larger international regattas are different views of the buildings site bank is the new City Yacht held in the Latvian capital, it is along the waterfront, watch 72Club with its ascetic floating not uncommon to see more than construction work in the port, houses. 100 yachts of all shapes and sizes or get close to the large ships

CROSS – COUNTRY SKIS

It is said that there are places Mežaparks has the longest history On the left bank of the Daugava where all children are born of public-access cross-country River, at the foot of the 79-metre- with downhill skis on their feet. skiing for Riga city dwellers. Every high Victory Monument, is the In Riga it is said they’re born winter a 2.5-kilometre clas- 1.25-kilometre Uzvaras Park with cross-country skis. With sic-style ski trail and a 1-kilometre cross-country track. It remains its ample, flat expanses, Riga free-style cross-country ski loop lighted throughout the night and seems made for cross-country is opened near the open-air stage lets you enjoy skiing while at the skiing during the snowy months in Mežaparks’ recreational park. same time keeping pace with of the year. Weather permit- Riga’s longest cross-country ski the pulse of the city. A comple- ting, cross-country skiing can be trail, however, is found in Biķer- tely different mood can be done almost anywhere in Riga. nieki. Although typically used for experienced on the 3-kilometre During the winter season, there motor sports and racing, in winter ski trail on the grounds of the 73are also several well-maintained the 4.7-kilometre Biķernieki Track Viesturi golf club. As you glide cross-country skiing trails in is prepared for both classic and through the forest, you might places like Pārdaugava, Biķernieki skate skiing and is wide enough even catch an up-close glimpse Forest and Mežaparks. Many of to accommodate experienced of wild animals roaming freely. these trails are free of charge and skiers as well as families with operate around the clock. children. 88 72

GOLF CLUBS

Among European capitals, Riga sits on the shores of Kišezers Lake, to hit the ball across a pond. The is unique in that the peaceful, which poses a special challenge Viesturi golf course is surrounded green, wide-open areas suitable to golfers, especially during windy by dense forest, so, in addition for the game of golf are found weather. to a few golfing challenges, quite close to the city centre. players might even see some wild In the northern part of the city The smaller, nine-hole Viesturi animals up close. Sometimes roe known as Vecmīlgrāvis lies the golf course on the southern side deer and even wild boar can be Ozo Golf Club, which is also of the city holds the distinction seen wandering down the forest included on the list of the world’s of being the first golf course in paths in the early morning or best golf courses. This very Latvia. Here, too, the proximity of evening hours. special golf course, with 16 artifi- water makes for a more exciting 74cial ponds and 50 sand bunkers, game by compelling every player 89 FISHING

Riga has its own very enthusi- and armed with an admirable however, are found in the vici- astic fishing community. Already immunity to the cold. People nity of Ķīšezers Lake. They know a local legend, the “eternal often joke about how the ice where to find the best fishing fishermen” working right next fishermen show up on the river spots – where the pike and perch to the shipping lanes in the even before the ice has formed. hide in the reeds and shallows, Daugava River can be seen in all And the toughest of them stub- where the zander’s favourite holes weather conditions. During the bornly await their catches until and strong currents are located, harshest of winters, when the the final thaw of spring has set in, and where to find schools of fish Daugava freezes over, something when the ice has become dange- that have been pushed by winds unique can be observed in the rously thin and has even begun to from the Baltic Sea into the river very centre of Riga – the river is recede from the riverbanks. and lakes. peppered with fishermen seated on the ice, immensely patient The real fishing-hole experts,75

ICE-SKATING

In a city where winter – whether many sites on both sides of the harsh or gentle – lasts for four Daugava River are transformed months, ice-skating as a recre- into outdoor skating venues. The ational activity is quite popular. skatepark in Grīziņkalns is turned During the cold season, there is into an ice-skating rink, and rinks no lack of places in Riga, indoors are also opened in Uzvaras Park or out, to practise your favourite and Sniega Parks (Snow Park) in ice-skating figures or deftly carve Mežaparks. Ice-skating rinks are figure eights in the ice. When the also set up near many schools temperature falls below freezing, and in the city centre. 76

90 75

www.RigasLaivas.lv

BOATING AND SUP BOARDING

Riga’s extensive waterways – the ture organisation Luzumpunkts you’ll appreciate the grandeur of Daugava River, its bays and tribu- also offers popular boating routes the urban structures, including taries, the twists and turns of the in Riga and its surroundings. the major bridges, otherwise city canal, Baltezers and Ķīšezers rarely experienced from below. lakes – provide a unique oppor- Typically, the kayaking and SUP Several of the river routes run tunity to explore the city in a routes start on the city canal, around the lush greenery of Zaķu- completely different way. That is, which runs underneath several sala and Lucavsala islands. The by meditatively gliding across the small bridges. There, you’ll enjoy most challenging route is to the water on an SUP board or kayak. the old and modern architecture Riga shipyard, where you can sail of Riga, experience the magic under the monstrous hulls of gas 77Many SUP enthusiasts, such as of its parks, and touch the rain- tankers, passenger ships or fishing those at Riga Wake Park and bows created by the fountains vessels on dry docks and get a Burusports, organise tours on the before heading further into the look at the huge propellers. city canal, the Daugava River and vast waters of the Daugava River. beyond. The well-known adven- As you go up against the waves, 91 SKATEBOARDING

Riga’s community of “boarders Ghetto Games, the best-known Meanwhile, long boarders use on wheels” is currently divided street sports movement in Latvia. their boards as a fast and conve- into two distinct groups of enthu- Riga’s largest indoor skate park is nient form of transport through siasts: the classic skateboard Monsterparks. But currently the the streets and sidewalks of the group and the longboard group. most popular skate spot in Latvia cityscape. The longboard commu- Skateboarders do their tricks and – and a cult site of sorts, thanks nity also holds organised events stunts in the city’s skateparks, to the tireless efforts of the and rides all year round, but the the most renowned of which is internationally acclaimed Latvian real virtuosos of this niche prove the Grīziņkalns skate park. This skateboarder Madars Apse – is themselves at downhill races park was one of the first of its the plaza in front of the National outside of Riga. kind in Riga and gave rise to the Library of Latvia. 78

TENNIS TRADITIONS

Ever since Rigan Jeļena Ostapenko’s both indoors and out. Among the sensational victory in the summer of biggest tennis clubs are the two Enri 2017 at the Stade Roland Garros in clubs, the Centrālais Tenisa Klubs the French Open finals in Paris, Riga’s (Central Tennis Club) and the tennis tennis traditions and local tennis club owned by Rīgas satiksme (Riga courts have been thrust into the Transport) located in the suburb of limelight. Mežaparks. The ACB Tennis Club is located in Mārupe, just outside of Nowadays in Riga and its suburbs, Riga. 79on both banks of the Daugava River, there is a growing number of oppor- tunities to play tennis in all seasons,

92 CYCLING

Many other cycling enthusiasts run cycling shops, workshops, cafés and bicycling move- ments, thereby supporting an active lifestyle in an urban environment and promoting sports and entertainment for fans of all kinds of cycling. Of these events, the most special is probably Riga Bike Week. During this celebration, the Steel Vintage bicycle ride for road and track bicycles made before 1995 shows off older bicycles, while the Tweed Ride showcases retro bicycles and garb. The event also highlights some of the 80current trends in urban bicycle culture, such as activities featuring fixed-gear bicycles.

Every day, however, you’ll see the most vibrant mix of different kinds of cyclists on the streets of Riga – from athletic cyclists audaciously joining the flows of motorised traffic, to everyday cyclists following special bicycle paths, to urban connoisseurs on the Spīķeri and Ķengarags promenades along the Daugava River. During the warm season, a “hot” route is the Riga–Jūrmala bicycle trail, which follows the railway line outside the city, through the pine forests to the seaside beaches.

93 UNTRADITIONAL VIEWPOINTS40

94 A GLASS LIFT – UP TO THE 26TH-FLOOR BAR AT THE RADISSON BLU HOTEL LATVIJA

Skyline, the bar on the 26th floor Street (or Brīvības Boulevard, as golden domes of the Riga Nativity of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija is this section of the main artery is of Christ Orthodox Cathedral. possibly the most popular obser- called) stretches down below like The Radisson’s 26th floor also vation platform in all of Riga. The a precisely measured line through provides an unusual perspective modern panorama lift has glass the middle of the city. At the of the Freedom Monument. Don’t walls and catapults you upwards height of summer, when the trees forget to also come up here later along the outside of the building, are green and full, it seems that a in the evening, when all of the as if through time and into a forest has taken over the city. Just street lights have been turned on. 81completely different city. Brīvības an arm’s length away are the five

OLD AND NEW TOWERS OF RIGA – AS SEEN FROM THE LEFT BANK OF THE DAUGAVA

The skyline of Riga’s historical Baroque-style tower of the City rical styles, such as the Ministry centre, which enjoys UNESCO Hall (Rātsnams), Riga Castle and of Agriculture building and the World Heritage Site status, is the high-rise Latvian Academy Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija built in best viewed from the left bank of Sciences building. In addition the Soviet Modernism style. But of the Daugava River. Its main to these classics, there are also a these buildings are nevertheless a features include several church few structures whose architecture part of the skyline today. and cathedral towers, the does not fit as well with the histo82-

95 ACADEMY OF SCIENCES VIEWING PLATFORM – A VIEW ACROSS THE MARKET AND TRAINS

The Latvian Academy of Sciences borrowed from Western culture, city. Perhaps the most intriguing building in Riga is one of the most for example, the Manhattan Muni- area to watch is the nearby striking examples of Socialist cipal Building in New York City. Central Market. Its iconic archi- Realism architecture in Latvia. tecture – five former zeppelin There is an unmistakable simi- On the 17th floor of the Academy hangars – form a special visual larity between it and the “Seven of Sciences building, 65 metres83 dialogue with the five arches of Sisters” in Moscow – seven high- above ground, a viewing platform the Railway Bridge in the back- rises whose form, in turn, was opens up to a broad view of the ground.

GALLERIA RIGA TERRACE – BETWEEN THE ROOFTOPS AND CHIMNEYS

Take a surreal stroll between just an arm’s length away. And each time you’ll notice something the city’s rooftops – and enjoy what all can be seen from up different: a special architectural a 360-degree panorama – on here! Square, round and pyra- detail, decorative sculpture or the rooftop terrace of the mid-shaped towerlets; brick unusual construction. seven-storey Galleria Riga shop- chimneys in various colours; glass- ping centre. Here it seems that topped stairwells... Come here 84the roofs across the street are at different times of the day, and

96 RIGA FROM THE HIGHEST POINT – THE ZAĶUSALA TELEVISION TOWER

You can’t get any higher than this! At 368.5 metres, the Riga Radio and Televi- sion Tower, also known as the Zaķusala TV Tower, is not only the highest tower in the Baltic States but also the third highest tower in Europe. From here, you can really get a bird’s-eye view of the city. The viewing platform is located 98 83 85metres above the ground and provides a view of the Latvian capital and all of its suburbs. Here you can see the geogra- phic placement in the Daugava River of the city’s lush, green islands, including long, tongue-shaped Zaķusala Island right below your feet.

97 FIVE BRIDGES – FIVE DIFFERENT LINKS ACROSS THE DAUGAVA

The five bridges of Riga, which railing of the romantic Akmens really a part of the city centre, link the city centre on the right (Rock) Bridge features wrou- this newest of Riga’s bridges can bank of the Daugava River and ght-iron ornamentation and eight be seen from the middle of Salu the suburbs on the left bank, are fancy, cast-iron lanterns set on Bridge. significant features of the citys- granite pillars. In the evenings, cape. They can be seen from the the five arches of the Dzelzceļa The bridges themselves provide highest viewing platforms in the (Railway) Bridge are lighted up wonderful views of the city and city as well as from below (for in blue and white, reflecting86 a the river. Depending on your example, on a boat), and each surreal counterpart in the waters mood, feel the wind in your face has its own character and energy. of the Daugava. Salu (Islands) while walking across a bridge, or The pylon of the Vanšu (Cable) Bridge is the longest bridge across find shelter from the wind, for Bridge is 109 metres high and the Daugava within Riga. And, example, in the pedestrian tunnel holds the cables that support the although the orange, multi-pylon under Salu Bridge. 312-metre span of the bridge. The Dienvidu (South) Bridge is not

98 DAUGAVA PROMENADE – WHERE “THE COUNTRY ENTERS THE CITY” IN ĶENGARAGS

In the southeastern part of Riga, can experience both the cyclic sort of open-air street-art gallery. a landscaped pedestrian and character of nature as well as The path features several pedest- bicycle promenade stretches the rapid changes in the urban rian bridges and viewing terraces, for over three kilometres along environment. As you gaze at the including a bird-watching tower. the right bank of the Daugava wild and untouched banks across Climb to the top of the tower and River. Here you can find somet- the Daugava River on one 87side, look towards central Riga – to the hing that many other European on the other you’ll pass a fence Dienvidu Bridge and the televi- capitals lack, namely, the proxi- surrounding the former Sarkanais sion tower on Zaķusala Island – mity of green spaces almost kvadrāts (Red Square) rubber and you’ll easily catch the feeling untouched by human hands. factory, established in the 1930s. of nature entering the city and Here on the promenade one Today, the fence has become a vice versa.

SPĪĶERI PROMENADE – ACROSS FROM ZAĶUSALA ISLAND

The Spīķeri Promenade is a to the Spīķeri Quarter by a tunnel the Daugava, next to the Railway recently opened public outdoor under the main road, stretches Bridge, and leads to the foot of space that has not only helped to along the banks of the Daugava the Salu Bridge. There, on the regenerate a formerly degraded River across from the television other side of Krasta Street, begins yet unique part of the city; it complex on Zaķusala Island. Sit Maskavas Forštate (Moscow has also provided city residents here for a while and watch the Suburb) – another unique district with a wonderful place to take a light and shadows play on the of Riga with a historical charm all walk and spend some free time shimmering waters or wind- its own. 88right in the centre of the city. The whipped waves. The promenade promenade, which is connected begins where the city canal enters 99 BIBLIOTĒKA N°1 – A RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW OF VĒRMANES GARDEN

At the request of Anna Gertrud by two sculptures of reclining and magic for yourself. The mood Wöhrmann (Anna Ģertrūde lions. And the Bibliotēka N°1 from outside often sneaks into Vērmane), the largest donor to restaurant has found a home near the restaurant as well – a frigh- this park funded completely by where the pavilion used to stand. tened flock of pigeons in the park public donations, various exotic Because the park is located rising up into the air can make tree species and a rose garden between some of the city’s lunch guests put down their forks were established in the park. busiest streets, you can spend a and pause their conversations for Naturally, a pavilion was built peaceful (or exciting) afternoon89 a brief, wonderful moment. as well. Today, a monument to people-watching from the restau- Wöhrmann stands in the middle rant’s large windows, capturing of a round bed of roses, guarded some of the park’s atmosphere

VIEW FROM ROOM 602 AT THE NEIBURGS HOTEL

Sometimes it’s much nicer to Room 602 of the Neiburgs hotel. Riga’s history. To wit, the first curl up in front of the window in After a day of walking around the thing you’ll notice outside the a comfortable, warm room and city, settle in up here with a glass room’s windows is a small globe watch the storm clouds moving of wine and enjoy the view of the adorning the roof of the building across the sky, the sun reflecting sunset. across the street. If you take a off the red tile roofs and the closer look, under the globe is a seagulls circling around. Luckily, This experience can also be sign made of forged metal that 90just such a scenario is possible in combined with a small tour of reads “Museum”.

100 That’s because this building Cathedral with its copper roof. manage to get back to your room belongs to the Museum of the After a good night’s rest, it’s worth and watch another sunset from History of Riga and Navigation. visiting the museum and, towards the window. After all, no two But of course, the most promi- evening, attending a concert in sunsets are alike. nent feature seen from the the cathedral featuring its mighty 89 room is the stately tower of Riga organ. Afterwards, you can still

101 LEGENDARY RIGANS

102Eduards Smilgi’s study in the Theater Museum named after him EDUARDS SMIĻĢIS (1886–1966),

“The more fantastic, the more lity in the history of 20th-century The Smiļģis family property in the passionate, the more daring, Latvian theatre. He is a legend, a Pārdaugava district of Riga (37/39 the better!” said Latvian theatre person who “established his own Eduarda Smiļga Street) is also a director and actor Eduards galaxy”. To this day, the moniker “a significant site in Latvian theatre Smiļģis (1886–1966), thereby Smiļģis actor” requires no addi- history. It is the home of the capturing the essence of art. tional comment in local cultural Eduards Smiļģis Theatre Museum, Smiļģis, who founded the Daile circles, even though most of which highlights not only the Theatre in Riga, is considered a those worthy of the title are no legendary director but also some reformer of Latvian dramatic art longer alive. of the most vivid moments in 91and the most illustrious persona- Latvian theatre.

FRIEDRICH ZANDER (1887–1933)

Friedrich Zander - one of the avantgarde and even futuristic further journey to Mercury. most eminent inventors in the inventor, Zander mathematically history of rocketry was born in calculated the trajectory of the The University of Latvia has Riga. The name of rocket designer flight to Mars while still a student recently established the Zander Friedrich Zander can be found in at Riga Polytechnic Institute. He Memorial Museum of Space two other places: in Kislovodsk in also modelled the complexity of Exploration, located within the Russia, where he departed from interplanetary travel, focussing on university complex. The exhibi- this world, and on the moon, preparations for his own utopian tion features displays on Friedrich where in 1970 a crater was named dream – to be among those who Zander himself, space research after him. It was precisely Zander’s set foot on these celestial bodies. and the history of astronomy. It invention of a jet-propelled also features the largest meteo- engine that runs on liquefied Admittedly, half a century after92 rite collection in the Baltics, old oxygen and petrol that drew Zander’s death a number of his astronomical instruments and humankind closer to space travel ideas have actually come to frui- books. Meanwhile, the Latvian and its first steps on the surface tion, with no mention of the origi- Academy of Sciences continues of the moon. nator of these ideas. Among these its tradition of awarding the Fried- is the idea of “gravity assist”, used rich Zander Award for scientific One of Zander’s greatest passions by the automatic interplanetary research in mechanics and astro- was researching the fourth station Mariner-10 when orbiting nomy. planet from our sun, Mars. An Venus to gain acceleration for the 103 MIKHAIL EISENSTEIN (1867–1921) AND SERGEI EISENSTEIN (1898–1948)

Thanks to the surname Eisenstein, buildings he designed. The best age of 17, Sergei went on to direct Riga entered the world of cinema known of these is definitely the Battleship Potemkin (1925), a film and architecture. The city was building at 10b Elizabetes Street, about a mutiny on a battleship the home to the Russian Empi- with its long, pensive mascaron that is considered probably the re’s most distinguished architect, faces, peacocks and surreal, finest example of filmmaking ever Mikhail Eisenstein, as well as the robotic characters that seem to made. Like a powerful magnet, birthplace of his son, the notable be enacting a live, architectural he has inspired such legends Soviet film director Sergei Eisens- play. The façades of several other in filmmaking as Jean-Jacques tein. buildings in Riga “directed” by Annaud and Peter Greenaway Mikhail Eisenstein feature similar93 (who in 2015 came out with In his day, the extravagant Jewish dramatic figures, and such a Eisenstein in Guanajuato, a film architect created true drama concentration of his work can be about Eisenstein’s time in Mexico) in the architecture of Riga by found nowhere else. to make pilgrimages to Riga. In helping bring to it qualities of all, Eisenstein directed only seven the avantgarde Art Nouveau style The architect’s son inherited this films during his lifetime, but of that era. And drama is in fact knack for directing, albeit in the these films began a revolution in the correct word, considering world of cinema. Sergei Eisens- filmmaking, proving that cinema the reaction of the public back tein was one of the world’s best is able to express abstract thou- then – both wonder and condem- film directors and revolutionised ghts through the use of specific, nation – regarding the unusual, the technique of film montage. concrete images. decorative and subtly humorous Born and raised in Riga until the

104 Building on Strelnieku iela 4a designed by M.Eisenstein MIKHAIL TAL (1936–1992)

“The magician from Riga” – this chess strategy forever. 21st-century architecture that was the nickname of legendary During the highest point in his successfully complements the chess player Mikhail Tal, who, in professional chess playing career Art Nouveau neighbourhood of the spring of 1960, used tactics – the years between 1968 and the city. And a monument to Tal based on intuition and impro- 1982 – Tal had a record-brea- in Vērmanes Park is the venue for visation to topple the rational, king 81.18% percentage of wins, the opening of the city’s “chess academic and seemingly undefe- achieved in 101 games of chess in season”. The silver-haired chess atable Soviet chess idol Mikhail master-level tournaments. enthusiasts and their spectators Botvinnik from his throne. Tal was The chess grandmaster is still have become an integral part of only 24 years old at the time and a living legend in Riga today. summer in the city. became the eighth and youngest For example, inspired by Tal, 93 94world champion. He also changed the new Tal Residence features

ISAIAH BERLIN (1909–1997)

“I am Isaiah Berlin, and I come Sergei Eisenstein, and to his dying Every year one of Berlin’s philo- from Riga.” That is how the British day considered himself a Rigan, sophical topics that is pertinent philosopher of Jewish origin – one most of the philosopher’s life to a current issue is chosen as a of the brightest minds of the 20th was spent in Oxford working for theme. 2014 saw the release of century, who will be remembered Great Britain. Sir Isaiah Berlin was the film Escaping Riga, produced in history primarily for analysing conferred numerous honorary by Dāvis Sīmanis, which tells the concept of liberty – usually titles, among them a British knigh- about the lives of two boys who introduced himself. thood. are neighbours – Isaiah Berlin and Sergei Eisenstein – and their time Although Berlin spent the first Isaiah Berlin Day was established spent in Riga and beyond. years of his life on Alberta Street in Riga in order to highlight 95 together with his contemporary, the philosophical ideas of this the eminent Soviet film producer distinguished thinker in Latvia.

105 VERA MUKHINA (1889–1953)

Riga is the birthplace of the Moscow to Riga in order to defend memorial museum has been estab- renowned Russian sculptor Vera and protect a symbol of Latvian lished at 23/25 Turgeņeva Street, Mukhina. Her best-known work is independence, the Freedom Monu- where Mukhina and her family lived Worker and Kolkhoz Woman. At a ment. At the time, the ruling powers until she was three years old. The height of 24 metres and weighing of the Latvian SSR were discussing 19th-century, Empire-style, wooden 75 tonnes, the sculpture was made the demolition of the monument, house was typical of Riga’s Russian for the Soviet Union’s pavilion at and a monument to Stalin was merchants at the time. the 1937 World Fair in Paris. It won proposed for the site. Championing a gold medal at the fair and also the artistic value of the Latvian The graņonka drinking glass praise from 20th-century art genius monument, Mukhina categorically designed by Mukhina also became Pablo Picasso. Today the sculpture opposed its demolition, and her an icon of the Soviet era. At its is exhibited by the entrance to authority was respected. 96peak of popularity, 600 million of the VDNKh exhibition centre in the glasses were produced every Moscow. The flax and hemp warehouses that year, and they could be bought at once belonged to Mukhina’s family every household goods store. After Even though Mukhina spent most still stand in the Moscow District of several years of decline, the glasses of her life in Soviet Russia, she Riga. Now known as the Spīķeri, the are now becoming highly valued as played an important part in a very former warehouse quarter is one of a retro item and a fine example of significant moment of Latvian the most vivid architectural remin- design, so don’t be surprised to find history. In 1945, she travelled from ders of the city’s industrial past. A them at bars and cafés in Riga.

RICHARD WAGNER (1813–1883)

“Riga has been described to me to Riga. However, due to unpaid Rienzi in Riga. This opera, which as the most wonderful place on loans and ongoing legal proce- brought him worldwide fame, was earth, particularly when it comes edings against the composer, the only performed once in Riga – in to earning money...” So wrote time he spent in Riga was brief 1878 – but it returned to the city world-famous German composer – only from 1837 to 1839. And yet, in 2014 with a production led by and opera reformer Richard these two years were steeped Danish director Kirsten Dehlholm. Wagner in a letter to his wife, in creativity. Wagner composed Minna, shortly before heading the first two acts of his opera

97106 A number of addresses in Riga are ser’s biography reveal certain pursuit of Wager’s steps, the tour associated with Wagner, and the details about the city: places route also highlights the work Latvian National Opera and Ballet where Wagner lived; the building of sculptor August Volz, whose offers an excursion titled “Wagner: where, in addition to his duties portrait relief of the composer is a legend of Riga”, which reveals as the chief conductor at the located in the current opera and the Riga that Wagner knew – the Riga City Theatre, he spent time ballet building, and a sculpture places where the composer lived, composing Rienzi; and the Riga of Wagner by Latvian sculptor worked and visited. Thus, these City Theatre itself, which left an Gleb Panteleyev, located by the 96 few pages of the famous compo- indelible impression on him. In its entrance to the New Hall.

From Wagner’s opera Tannhauser in Latvian National Opera and Ballet107 VIJA CELMIŅŠ (1938)

Although the world-famous Latvi- takes on a precise and hard ripple In 2014, Celmiņš “returned” to an-American artist Vija Celmiņš effect due to its fine lines. Riga with a sweeping retros- spent only the first six years of pective titled Dubultā realitāte her life in Riga, where she was Every piece of graphic art created (Double Reality) at the Riga born, Latvia is always mentioned by Celmiņš takes several months Bourse Art Museum. The same alongside her name in prestigious to complete. Using graphite on year saw the release by the Juris museum exhibitions. paper, she conjures up an infini- Podnieks Studio of the documen- tely deep world, be it the starry tary film Teritorija Vija Celmiņš The main focus of Celmiņš’ works heavens, a desert or an ocean. (Vija Celmiņš: Reinterpreted), is the relationship between the Collectors are prepared to wait filmed when visiting the artist in surface of an image and the practically a whole lifetime and New York and Long Island. depth of space. She is interested pay big money for her work. In in creating various settings using 2012, Celmiņš’ drawing Untitled98 In 2017, Celmiņš donated two the options that different graphic #8 sold for 1,142,500 dollars works of graphic art to the Latvian art techniques provide. Her at Christie’s auction house in National Museum of Art: Untitled mezzotint ocean looks like a soft, New York, bringing the artist an (Ocean mezzotint, 2016) and flowing mass with a foggy, wispy all-time record price. Untitled (Ocean drypoint, 2016). focus, while her drypoint ocean

108 GUNĀRS BIRKERTS (1925–2017)

Riga – the birthplace of well-known Latvi- an-American architect Gunārs Birkerts – has forged a place for itself on the global map of architecture. Birkerts, whom fate led away from Latvia in 1943 and later to Germany and the United States, always thought of himself as belonging to the school of Nordic moder- nism. From 1968 to 1981, he realised one of the most innovative projects of his day, the Federal Reserve Bank in Minneapolis, Minne- sota – a project that brought him global renown. He also designed the much-admired 99 98 Corning Museum of Glass in New York State and the University of Michigan Law Library Addition.

But Birkerts always considered his most important lifetime achievement to be the National Library of Latvia, also referred to as the Castle of Light (2014). Like Latvian folklore and folk songs, which Birkerts’ parents had studied extensively, the building is saturated with symbolism and metaphor. In 2000, the National Library of Latvia project won the American Architecture Award estab- lished by the Chicago Athenaeum Museum of Architecture and Design.

Interior of the Latvian National Library. 109 OPERA AND BALLET STARS

The grand Latvian National Opera and Ballet building in the very centre of Riga, built in a Hellenised Classicism style, is like a rare oyster that has allowed genuine pearls to grow concealed in its mantle – natural jewels that the city can be proud of in a global context. A number of world-renowned classical music, opera and ballet stage greats are associated with Riga and Latvia. These are talents that have been highly acclaimed by the world’s best opera houses, from the Royal Opera in London’s Covent Garden to the Metropolitan Opera in New York.

In the mid-20th century the world was to discover famous Latvian 100ballet dancer Māris Liepa (1936–1989), a member of the Moscow Bolshoi Theatre troupe who was awarded the Marius Petipa Prize and presented with the Vaslav Nijinsky Prize by the Paris Academy of Dance. Mikhail Baryshnikov (1948), a world-famous principal ballet dancer with the American Ballet Theatre and New York City Ballet, also spent his childhood in Riga.

A number of prominent contemporary opera stars have begun their careers on the stage of the Latvian Opera House. For example, Latvian mezzo-soprano Elīna Garanča (1976), who is no stranger to the stage of the Metropolitan Opera House nor that of Covent Garden. Also Kristīne Opolais (1979), who is one of the world’s new opera stars and regularly performs at the world’s most prestigious opera houses, such as the Metropolitan Opera House, the Vienna State Opera, the Berlin State Opera and the Teatro alla Scala in Milan, working with famous conductors such as Daniel Barenboim, Daniel Harding and Louis Langrée. Internationally acclaimed Latvian tenor Aleksandrs Antonenko (1975) has also gained recognition performing at the Metropolitan Opera House and other venues.

Music critics have included two contemporary Latvian conduc- tors among the world’s best conductors: Mariss Jansons (1943) and Andris Nelsons (1978). In 2016, Jansons was nominated for a Grammy Award, the world’s most prestigious music award, for best orchestral performance; Nelsons, for his part, won the Grammy for best orchestral performance in that same year. Jansons is currently the chief conductor at the Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra, while Nelsons is the music director of the Boston Symphony Orchestra.

110Latvian National Opera and Ballet. 100

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Cover, page 6 Aigars Bokāns Jansons Page 24 Wikimedia Commons/ CC BY SA 4.0 Page 32 courtesy of the Kalnciema ielas kvartāls Page 35 Ģirts Raģelis Pages 52, 53 courtesy of the Latvian National Museum of Art Page 55 Momenti.lv Page 75 from the book Riga Cocktails Page 87 courtesy of multi-functional auto sport leisure and training complex 333 Page 89 courtesy of Ozo Golf Club Page 91 Juris Zīģelis (courtesy of Rīgas laivas) Page 102 Matvey Gryaznov (courtesy of the Eduards Smilgis Theater Museum) Page 107 courtesy of the Latvian National Opera and Ballet Page 108 Kristīne Madjare Page 109 courtesy of the Latvian National Library

All the other pictures are provided by RTDB or courtesy of the places showed in the pictures. 111 www.LiveRiga.com 112