©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

HIKING & TRAMPING IN

^# Tongariro, Te Urewera & Northland, Central Auckland & p90 Coromandel p56 #_

Abel , Kahurangi & Nelson Lakes p156 Taranaki & Southern #_ North Island p110 West Coast p218 Queen Charlotte & Marlborough p138 Canterbury, Arthur's Pass & Aoraki/Mt Cook p188

^# Mt Aspiring National Park & & Stewart Around Queenstown Island/Rakiura p238 p270

Andrew Bain, Jim DuFresne PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE TRACK

Welcome to New Zealand. . .4 NORTHLAND, Pouakai Circuit...... 118 New Zealand Map. . . . .6 AUCKLAND Pouakai Crossing. . . . . 121 & COROMANDEL. . 56 Mt Taranaki Summit . . . . 123 New Zealand’s Great Walks. . 8 Te Paki Coastal Track. . . . 59 Ruahine Forest Park. . 123 Need to Know...... 14 Cape Brett Track ...... 63 Sunrise Track ...... 124 If You Like...... 16 Rangitoto Island Loop. . . . 66 Tararua Forest Park. . 126 Itineraries ...... 19 Aotea Track...... 70 Mt Holdsworth–Jumbo Coromandel Walkway . . . . 76 Circuit...... 127 Choosing Your Tramp. . 23 Kauaeranga Kauri Trail . . . 78 Cape Palliser. . . . . 129 Outdoor Pursuits. . . . 28 Karangahake Gorge. . . . . 82 . . . 130 New Zealand’s Birds. . . . 34 Towns & Facilities. . . .85 Towns & Facilities. . . 132 New Plymouth ...... 132 Safety in the Outdoors. . 38 Auckland...... 85 Kaitaia ...... 87 Napier ...... 133 Clothing, Equipment Palmerston North . . . . . 134 & Food ...... 47 Russell...... 87 Whangarei...... 88 Masterton...... 135 Regions at a Glance. . . 52 Thames ...... 89 ...... 136

NARUEDOM YAEMPONGSA/SHUTTERSTOCK© TONGARIRO, TE QUEEN CHARLOTTE & UREWERA & CENTRAL MARLBOROUGH. . 138 NORTH ISLAND. . .90 Queen Charlotte & Marlborough Tramps. . 141 . . . . . 93 Queen Charlotte Track. . . 141 Tongariro Alpine Pelorus Track ...... 146 Crossing...... 95 Kaikoura Coast Track. . . . 151 Tongariro Towns & Facilities. . . 154 Northern Circuit ...... 98 Picton...... 154 Te Urewera...... 102 Kaikoura...... 155 Lake Waikaremoana OTURERE HUT P100 Great Walk ...... 103 Towns & Facilities. . . 106 ABEL TASMAN, KAHURANGI & Taupo...... 106 NELSON LAKES. . 156 JOHANLARSON/SHUTTERSTOCK © Turangi...... 107 National Park Village. . . . 108 Abel Tasman National Park . . . . . 159 Wairoa ...... 109 ...... 160 TARANAKI & Kahurangi SOUTHERN NORTH National Park . . . . .166 ISLAND ...... 110 ...... 167 Egmont Tableland Circuit . . . . . 172 National Park . . . . . 113 Nelson Lakes Around the National Park . . . . . 174 CAPE PALLISER Mountain Circuit . . . . . 115 Lake Angelus Track . . . . 179 LIGHTHOUSE P130 Contents

UNDERSTAND

St Arnaud Range Track. . . 180 ...... 236 New Zealand Travers-Sabine Circuit. . . 181 ...... 237 Today ...... 300 Towns & Facilities. . . 184 History...... 302 Nelson ...... 184 MT ASPIRING Environment...... 312 ...... 185 NATIONAL PARK Takaka ...... 186 & AROUND Karamea ...... 187 QUEENSTOWN. . .238 Mt Aspiring CANTERBURY, National Park . . . . . 241 ARTHUR’S PASS & ...... 242 AORAKI/MT COOK. . 188 Greenstone Caples Track...... 246 Banks Track...... 191 Rees-Dart Track...... 250 St James Walkway. . . . . 194 Cascade Saddle...... 253 Arthur’s Pass Rob Roy Track...... 256 National Park . . . . .198 Avalanche Peak ...... 200 Gillespie Pass Circuit. . . . 257 SURVIVAL Goat Pass Track...... 202 Queenstown GUIDE & Wanaka...... 260 Harper Pass ...... 204 Ben Lomond...... 260 Bealey Spur...... 207 Directory A-Z. . . . . 320 Roys Peak ...... 262 Aoraki/Mt Cook Diamond Lake & Transport...... 327 National Park . . . . .209 Rocky Mountain...... 264 Mueller Hut Route. . . . . 210 Accommodation. . . . 335 Towns & Facilities . . . 266 Hooker Valley Track. . . . 212 Queenstown ...... 266 Glossary...... 339 Towns & Facilities. . . 214 Wanaka ...... 267 Index...... 341 ...... 214 Glenorchy ...... 269 Map Legend...... 351 Akaroa...... 215 Hanmer Springs...... 216 FIORDLAND & Arthur’s Pass ...... 217 STEWART ISLAND/ Mt Cook Village ...... 217 RAKIURA . . . . .270 Fiordland

WEST COAST. . . . 218 National Park . . . . .273 ELLEN RYAN/LONELY PLANET © Old Ghost Road ...... 221 ...... 274 Paparoa Hollyford Track...... 279 National Park . . . . .224 ...... 284 Inland Pack Track...... 226 Gertrude Saddle...... 287 Westland Tai Poutini . . . . . 289 National Park . . . . .229 Stewart Island/ Welcome Flat ...... 230 Rakiura...... 293 Towns & Facilities. . . 233 ...... 294 Westport ...... 233 Towns & Facilities. . . 297 Greymouth ...... 234 ...... 297 JETBOATING P33 Punakaiki...... 235 Invercargill...... 298 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 19

Itineraries

TA S M A N S E A

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park

÷# #•Christchurch Lake É Mt Aspiring #•Tekapo National

Park É Milford

#• ÷# É

Sound É

É #• Queenstown É S O U T H PA C I F I C O C E A N

2 WEEKS Southern Highlights

Wing into Christchurch and stock up on supplies before heading for some of the ’s best tracks. Head south past gorgeous Lake Tekapo, taking in the obligatory view at the Church of the Good Shepherd, before continuing on to Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. Warm up your tramping legs on the easy hike through the Hooker Valley before giving them a sterner test on the Mueller Hut Route, staying up high in one of NZ’s loftiest huts. Drive on over Lindis Pass into the adrenaline bowl that is Queenstown. Get perspec- tive from atop Ben Lomond, and detour out past Wanaka into Mt Aspiring National Park to climb to a glacial extravaganza on the Rob Roy Track. Only in Queenstown can you then give your legs a rest by taking a bungy jump, or by skimming across Lake Wakatipu in a shark-shaped vessel. Cross the Southern Alps on the Routeburn Track before taking a day off to ogle, cruise or kayak , before returning to Queenstown along the Greenstone Caples Track, which horsehoes through two distinctly different valleys – take your pick – that meet near the shores of Lake Wakatipu. 20

•# Bay of Islands É

É

Auckland •# •#Coromandel É Peninsula PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN TA S M A N É S E A •# Rotorua •# Taupo ÷#Tongariro

National Park Abel Tasman É

National Park ÷# É Kahurangi÷#

National Park É #_WELLINGTON It É Punakaiki •# ÷#

i nerar Nelson Lakes Franz Josef É National Park Glacier •# Welcome Flat •# Mt Aspiring É i es National Park ÷# Milford Sound •# •#Wanaka S O U T H

•# É PA C I F I C Queenstown O C E A N

8 WEEKS The Grand Tour

Kick off your tramping bonanza in metropolitan Auckland. Warm up with a day hike on the volcanic island of Rangitoto, before driving north to the beautiful Bay of Islands. Set out on foot from its shores to rugged, lighthouse-tipped Cape Brett, getting a differ- ent perspective on the famed Hole in the Rock along the way. Head south to the sun-soaked Coromandel Peninsula to explore its myriad attractions as well as venturing in to Kauaeranga Valley to scale the Pinnacles. Travel south, getting steamed and sulphured at Rotorua and Taupo before donning the backpack again among the volcanic landscapes of Tongariro National Park. Savour them on the Tongariro Northern Circuit, or, if time is tight, traverse the much heralded Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Head to Wellington to wander through the national museum, Te Papa, before cross- ing Cook Strait to the South Island. Stretch your arms now as well as your legs in Abel Tasman National Park, home to the most popular of NZ’s Great Walks as well as golden beaches and turquoise waters begging to be kayaked. Two more national parks – Kahurangi and Nelson Lakes – lie nearby. Tramp the Heaphy or Lake Angelus Tracks on your way to the wild West Coast. Follow the stunning coast road, pausing at the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. Keep on trucking south towards glacier country. Take a guided glacier walk onto Franz Josef Glacier before tramping into Welcome Flat for a well-earned soak in the hot springs. Having cleared Haast Pass, head for lakeside Wanaka, from where you can head into Mt Aspiring National Park along the Matukituki Valley, veering away onto the Rob Roy Track to find a dramatic grandstand position beneath a hanging glacier. Head over the Crown Range to the self-branded ‘adventure capital of the world’, Queens- town. Take your pick from some of NZ’s most fabulous tramps – the Routeburn, Greenstone Caples and Rees-Dart. Head round to the almost-mythical Milford Sound, arriving by vehicle through the Homer Tunnel or on foot along the Milford Track, the tramp once de- scribed as the finest walk in the world. Finish by heading back to Queenstown, where you can wind down in one of its many inviting bars. 21

Auckland#• É Rotorua

#• TRIP YOUR PLAN

Waitomo #• É Caves É TA S M A N ÷#Te Urewera

S E A É Tongariro É National Park ÷# #• Napier Sunrise #• É Track Abel Tasman National Park It ÷# É

Kahurangi É WELLINGTON i nerar National Park ÷# #• É #• #f#_ Nelson Picton #•

É Putangirua Nelson Lakes Pinnacles

National Park ÷# i es

É Hanmer #• S O U T H Arthur's Pass Springs PA C I F I C National Park ÷# O C E A N É

É É #• Christchurch

4 WEEKS The Gentle Option

Ease into things with a couple of days in Christchurch, before heading inland and upland to Arthur’s Pass National Park, where Bealey Spur rewards trampers with a simple climb that’s blessed with views. Head north to the hot pools of Hanmer Springs before continuing to Nelson Lakes National Park, spending your days on the Mt Robert or St Arnaud Range climbs, and your nights in local accommodation. Meander through the Motueka Valley, popping in to the Tableland in before hitting Abel Tasman National Park and the most idyllic of NZ’s Great Walks. You might want to hang around for a few days to get a different perspective on the park from a kayak or boat. Indulge in the fine local food and wine in Nelson, then wind your way eastwards to Picton along the scenic Queen Charlotte Drive. Cruise through the Marlborough Sounds, then hit the Queen Charlotte Track while your bags are ferried ahead of you by water taxi. Take a restorative tour of Marlborough’s world-class wineries before hopping the ferry to Wellington. Stroll into cinematic excellence at Putangirua Pinnacles, with plenty of time left in the day to visit the lighthouse and seals at Cape Palliser. Head north to discover one of the easiest ways to an alpine pass in NZ on the Sunrise Track before stopping for a couple of days in art-deco Napier in sunny Hawke’s Bay. Gorge yourself on the region’s ample produce, then burn off the calories on its flat cycling trails. Venture into mystical Te Urewera to complete the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk then soak up some Māori culture and a good dose of sulphur at the many geothermal delights of Rotorua. Be sure to soak away any tramping aches in a hot here. Swing across to Taupo, the lakeside resort just a stone’s throw from Tongariro National Park and the legendary Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Check out the twinkling glowworms of Waitomo Caves before heading to Auckland, finishing your journey with an easy day tramp on volcanic Rangitoto Island or heading further north for a cou- ple of days on the rewarding and dramatic Cape Brett Track. 22

Alpine Explorer North Island Wonders

#• Auckland É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É Rotorua

Waitomo Caves #• #•É É #• É ÷#Te Urewera Egmont Taupo TA S M A N National ÷# ÷#÷# S E A Park Tongariro

National Park Buller #•É Nelson Gorge It Punakaiki #• #• ÷# Nelson Lakes

i nerar National Park Aoraki/Mt Cook ÷# Arthurs Pass

National Park É National Park ÷#É Mt Aspiring S O U T H

i es ÷# PA C I F I C National Park É O C E A N Queenstown #•

North Island 3 Alpine Explorer 3 WEEKS WEEKS Wonders

Start in vibrant Nelson before heading off Begin in Auckland and head south to the on this tour along the spine of NZ’s South- geothermal hot spot of Rotorua, where ern Alps. Drive to Nelson Lakes National geysers, bubbling mud, steaming vents and Park, where the Lake Angelus Track Māori cultural performances await. climbs up Robert Ridge for sweeping views Venture into densely forested Te Urew- of the Southern Alps. era and tramp the Great Walk around Lake Wend your way through the wild Buller Waikaremoana, before driving to Taupo to Gorge, which doubles as the starting point do a skydive, raft a river or catch a trout. for one of NZ’s newest tramping tracks, the Nearby is volcanic Tongariro National Old Ghost Road – if time is tight, you can Park, home to the famed Tongariro Alpine always mountain bike it. Crossing, almost universally claimed as Take in the Pancake Rocks at Punakai- NZ’s best day tramp. Then retire the boots ki as you briefly touch the west coast, for a few days as you splash into the Great before heading east to Arthur’s Pass Na- Walk that’s actually a river paddle: the tional Park to scale Avalanche Peak. 145km Whanganui Journey through the North Island’s largest lowland wilderness, East of the pass, stick close to the moun- . tains on the Inland Scenic Route through Whanganui National Park to Tekapo and Aoraki/Mt Cook National Truck west to Park, where you can climb to Mueller Hut and the near-symmetrical cone of Mt for views of NZ’s highest mountain, or stroll Taranaki. Tracks abound on the mountain, through the Hooker Valley for but it’s worth tramping the Pouakai Crossing to decide for yourself whether it’s actually Swing through Wanaka and into Mt better than the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Aspiring National Park, climbing high Loop back to Auckland via , to Cascade Saddle or low (but with high Waitomo Caves where you can ogle at glowworms or don a views) on the Rob Roy Track. Finally, make wet suit and abseil and river-tube deep into an alpine crossing on the Routeburn Track subterranean passages and caverns. before finishing in Queenstown. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 340

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro- duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

Emily Thorn at Auckland Council, Cedric Wedderburn WRITER THANKS at the Hump Ridge Track and Heather Macfarlane Andrew Bain at the Kaikoura Coast Track. To Jason and Megan Big thanks to an army of DOC staff who provided Hopper for a whole bunch of stuff, including the invaluable help with this edition. To Lizzy Sutcliffe excellent company on the trails, I owe you one. for being my go-between, Phil Brownie for your update, and to DOC staff across the country, including Des Williams, Lizzie Coates, Trish Grant, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Amy Rutledge, James Barsdell, Fiona Oliphant, Sarah Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Ensor, Jennifer Ross, Ray Bellringer, Jayne Ram- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the age, Jess Curtis, Sarah Keeble, Sorrel Hoskin, Neil Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Murray, Margot Ferrier, Graeme Kates, Helen Dodson Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. and Jose Watson. Thanks also to Derek Brenchley at Cover photograph: Routeburn Track, Mt Aspiring the Ngai Tūhoe, Phil Rossiter at the Old Ghost Road, National Park, Top-Pics TBK/Alamy © Nathan Watson at the NZ Mountain Safety Council,

Destination Editor Monique Perrin, Simon THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Williamson This 8th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editor Cartographer Michael Garrett Planet’s Hiking & Tramping Kate Chapman Cover Researcher in New Zealand guidebook Product Editor Jessica Ryan Naomi Parker was researched and written Senior Cartographer Thanks to Izzy Bowles, by Andrew Bain, with contri- Diana Von Holdt Jakob Burger, Jennifer Carey, butions from Brett Atkinson, Book Designer Gwen Cotter Daniel Corbett, Paul Cu- Peter Dragicevic, Samantha churean, Shona Gray, Jane Assisting Editors Michelle Forge, Anita Isalska and Sofia Grisman, Liz Heynes, Andi Levin. The previous edition was Bennett, Nigel Chin, Peter Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Jones, Sandie Kestell, Emiel written by Sarah Bennett and Konings, Claire Naylor, Karyn Lee Slater, and earlier editions Andrea Dobbin, Jennifer Hattam, Jodie Martire, Lou Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, An- were written by Jim DuFresne. gela Tinson, Tracy Whitmey This guidebook was produced McGregor, Kristin Odijk, by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 341

Index

A Angelus Basin 179 history 191 Te Horo Beach 63 Abel Tasman Coast Track 9, animals 314-17, see also birds maps 192 Te Werahi Beach 61-2 160-6, 161, 9 Antimony Mine Track 144 packing 192 Twenty Minute Beach 171 accommodation 162-3 Aoraki/Mt Cook 210, 41 planning 192 Twilight Beach 61-2 guided tramps 163 Aoraki/Mt Cook National travel seasons 192 Twin Beach 171 Park 209-14, maps 162 41 travel to/from 192 Bealey Spur 207-8, 208 travel to/from 163 environment 209-10 Bark Bay 164 accommodation 207 history 209 Abel Tasman, Kahurangi & bays maps 207 Nelson Lakes (region) maps 210 Anapai Bay 165 packing 207 53, 156-87, 158 planning 210 Brod Bay 286 planning 207 books 157 travel seasons 210 Camp Bay 144 travel to/from 207 climate 156 Aotea Track 70-6, 72-3 Davies Bay 146 Beer’s Pool 287 gateway towns 157 accommodation 73 Fletcher Bay 78 bellbird see korimako internet resources 157 history 71 Goat Bay 165 Bellbird Walk 181 travel seasons 156 maps 72 Horseshoe Bay 296 Ben Lomond 260-2, visitor information packing 71-2 261 Islington Bay 70 planning 261 centres 157 planning 71-3 Kaipipi Bay 297 Abel Tasman National Park travel seasons 71 travel to/from 261 159-66 Lee Bay 296 travel to/from 73 Ben Lomond Saddle 262 environment 159 Mistletoe Bay 146 Ardern, Jacinda 300, 311 bicycle trave, see cycling, history 159 Oke Bay 65 mountain biking area codes 322 packing 160 Pandora Bay 62 Billygoat Basin 82 Armstrong Saddle 126 planning 159-60 Billygoat Track 82 Around the Mountain Circuit Poley Bay 78 travel seasons 159-60 115-18 Resolution Bay 143 birds 34-36, 314-17, 34-7, accessible travel 320 Arthur’s Pass 217 Sandy Bay see also individual birds accommodation 335-8, Arthur’s Pass National Park (Otangawhiti) 62 bellbird, See korimako see also campsites, 198-208 Sawdust Bay 297 blue duck, See whio huts, lodges, individual Spirits Bay 63 accommodation types, environment 199 falcon, See karearea individual tracks history 198-9 Stony Bay 193 fantail, See piwakawaka activities 28-33, see also maps 200 Tapotupotu Bay 61-3 , See riroriro individual activities packing 199 Torrent Bay 164 kiwis 316 Ada Pass Flats 196 planning 199-200 Waiharakeke Bay 165 miromiro 36, 36 Ada Valley 197 travel seasons 199 Whariwharangi Bay 166 morepork, See ruru Ahukawakawa Swamp 120 ATMs 324 B&Bs 335 New Zealand pigeon, air travel 327-9 Auckland 85-6 beaches 18 See kereru Akaroa 215-16 Avalanche Peak 200-2, 201 Anchorage Beach 163 piwakawaka 34, 34 Alpine Memorial 213 maps 200 Big Bush Beach 152 pukeko 34, 34 Amoeboid Mire 287 planning 200 Big Rock Beach 171 rifleman, See tititi Anakiwa 146 travel to/from 200 Blowholes Beach 293 pounamu Anapai Bay 165 avalanches 45 Heaphy Beach 171 silvereye, See tauhou Anapai Bay Track 165 Awaroa Bay 164-5 Koura Beach 171 tauhou 34, 34 Anchorage 164 Magnetic Beach 296 , See miromiro Anchorstone/Te Puka 296 B Maori Beach 296 woodhen, See weka backpacks 48 Nettle Beach 171 bird-watching 28, 34-7, see also individual species Banks Track 191-4, 192 Ninety Mile Beach 61 Map Pages 000 accommodation 192 Onetahuti Beach 164-5 blue duck see whio Photo Pages 000 environment 191-2 Scotts Beach 171-2 183 342 Blue Pools Walk 259 Cannibal Gorge 196 Coast to Coast 199 Swamp Creek 281 boat travel 328, 329 canoeing 33 communication 45 Tekano Creek 232 Bobs Ridge 117 Canterbury, Arthur’s Pass & Conical Hill 245 Twenty Five Mile Creek booking services 338 Aoraki/Mt Cook (region) Cook, Captain James 113, 251 books 111, 139, 157, 271, 300 53, 188-217, 190 159, 191, 273, 290, Webb Creek 81 cycling 30 books 189 293, 305 Wekakura Creek 171

INDEX INDEX nature 312, 318 climate 188 Gorge 232 Crown Battery 84 Boomerang Slip 119 gateway towns 189 Coromandel Walkway culture 300-1 76-8, budgeting 336 internet resources 189 77 currency 14, 324

B accommodation 77-8  bungy jumping 30, 239 travel seasons 188 customs regulations 322 – environment 76-7 E Buntings Bush Gully 153 visitor information cycling 329, see centres 189 history 76 Buried Forest 152 also mountain biking canyoning 164 maps 77 Bus Stop Shelter 278 Cape Brett 65-6 planning 77-8 bus travel 330 D Cape Brett Track 63-6, travel seasons 77 business hours 325 64 Dancing Camp Dam 81 accommodation 64 travel to/from 78 dangers, see safety history 64 costs 15 Darkies Ridge 62 C maps 64 Crayfish Point 171 day hikes 66-7 camping 335-7 packing 64 credit cards 324 Deadman’s Track 245 campsites 337 planning 64-5 creeks debit cards 324-5 Anapai Bay travel seasons 64 Architect Creek 232 Campsite 165 Deep Water Cove 65 travel to/from 65 Blue Duck Creek 170 Appletree Bay Demon Trail 283 Cape Maria van Diemen 61 Breakneck Creek 293 Campsite 163 Diamond Lake & Rocky Bullock Creek 228 Bay of Many Coves Cape Palliser 129-31, 2 Mountain 264-6, 265 Campsite 145 Cape Palliser Lighthouse Captain Creek 149 environment 264 Black Rock Campsite 145 111, 130, 2 Cascade Creek 255 history 264 Camp Bay Campsite 144 Cape Reinga 62 Chair Creek 282 maps 264 Cowshed Bay Campsite Caples Track 248 Coal Creek 286 planning 264 145 car travel 331 Coffins Creek 75 travel seasons 264 Green Campsite 75-6 Cascade Saddle 253-6, Cupola Creek 182 travel to/from 264 Korokoro Campsite 105 254 Deception Creek 170 Dieffenbach Cliffs 119 accommodation 253-4 Maraunui Campsite 105-6 Dilemma Creek 228 Dilemma Gorge 228 guided walks 254 Onetahuti Bay Eel Creek 281 dolphin watching 316-17 Campsite 165 maps 253 Flat Creek 291 Donnelly Flat 129 Pandora Campsite 62 planning 253-4 Fossil Creek 228 Dredge Flat 253 Pelorus Bridge safety 255 Gorge Creek 169, 203 drinks 322-3 Campground 149 travel seasons 253 Hidden Falls Creek 281 driving, see car travel Schoolhouse Bay travel to/from 254 Hokuri Creek 283 Dry Rock Shelter 174 Campsite 143 Cascade Track 180 Homer Creek 281 DVDs 323 Scotts Beach Cass-Lagoon Saddles Hopeless Creek 182 Campsite 171 Track 209 Lyell Creek 223 Tapuaenui Campsite 106 Cattle Flat 252 Murray Creek 171 E Te Pukatea Bay caves Eagle’s Roost Shelter 193 Campsite 164 Open Creek 232 Caves 229 earthquakes 153, 301, 313 Tonga Quarry Campsite Palaver Creek 232 Luxmore Caves 286 Eatwells Lookout 145 164 Pfeifer Creek 205 caving 31 Edwin Burn Viaduct 292 Torrent Bay Village Ploughman’s Creek 152 Campsite 164 cell phones 14 Pompolona Creek 278 Eftpos 324 Totaranui Campsite 165 Central Crater 97 Potters Creek 245 Egmont National Park 113-23 Twilight Campsite 61 children, travel with 320 Rainbow Creek 281 accommodation 114 Watering Cove Chinamans Flat 253 Roaring Creek 245 environment 113-14 Campsite 164 Christchurch 214-15 Roebuck Creek 150 guided tramps 114 Whariwharangi cinema 300 Rough Creek 232 history 113 Campsite 166 Cleopatra’s Pool 164 Scott Creek 232 maps 114 Young Forks Campsite climate 14, 40, 42, 320-1, Sheep Creek 169 259 see also individual planning 114 Slip Creek 249, 283 regions travel seasons 114 Snowy Creek 252 climbing 16 travel to/from 115 Speargrass Creek 184 Map Pages 000 Clinton Forks 278 electricity 321, 323 Stag Creek 259 Photo Pages 000 clothing 47-8 Emerald Pool 149 Steele Creek 249 343 emergencies 44, 45, 322 travel seasons 288 Greenstone Gorge 249 European settlement Endeavour Inlet 143 travel to/from 289 Greenstone Track 248 304-6 environment 312-18 geysers 318 Greymouth 234-5 Land Wars 306-8 Great Barrier Island 74 Gibbs Hill Track 166 grey warbler, see riroriro Māori settlement 302-3 environmental issues 315 Gibbstown 223 Gridiron Gulch 174 Musket Wars 306 equipment 38, 39-40, Gillespie Pass Circuit Gridiron Shelter 174 websites 302, 308

48-51, 50 257-60, 258 Growler Shelter 174 hitching 333 INDEX etiquette 313 accommodation 258 guided tramps holiday parks 335-6 exchange rates 15 guided tramps 258 Abel Tasman holidays 325 maps 258 Coast Track 163 Hollyford Track 279-84,  E –

planning 258 Cascade Saddle 254 282, 283 H  F Coromandel Walkway 77 accommodation 280 falcon, see karearea travel seasons 258 Egmont National Park 114 guided tramps 281 Falls River Track 164 travel to/from 258-9 Gillespie Pass Circuit maps 280 fantail, see piwakawaka glaciers 16 258 packing 280 farmstays 336 Dart Glacier 252 Fox Glacier 236 Greenstone Caples planning 280-1 fauna 314-18 Track 247 Franz Josef Glacier 237 travel seasons 280 film 300 Heaphy Track 168 Glasgow Bridge 200 travel to/from 281 film locations Hollyford Track 281 Glenorchy 269 Honeydew Walk 181 Hobbit, the 93, 149 Hump Ridge Track 291 Goat Pass 203 Hooker Valley Track 212-14, Last Samurai, the 113 Lake Waikaremoana Goat Pass Track 202-4, 213, 17 Lord of the Rings trilogy, 201 Great Walk 103-4 accommodation 202-3 maps 213 the 93, 130, 241 Milford Track 275 maps 202 planning 213 Rob Roy Track 256 273-93 planning 202-3 travel to/from 213 Routeburn Track 243-4 environment 274 travel to/from 203 Hope Shelter 206 Tableland Circuit 172 history 273-4 Gouland Downs 169 Hopuruahine Landing 106 Tongariro National horse trekking 29 planning 274 Graylings Clearing 121-2 Park 95 Fiordland & Stewart Great Barrier Island 74 Horseshoe Basin 174 Island/Rakiura (region) Great Walks, the 8-13, 119 hostels 336 54, 270-98, 272 Abel Tasman Coast Track H hot springs Hanmer Springs 216-17 books 271 9, 160-6, 161, 9 Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools 216 climate 270 Heaphy Track 11, 167-72, Harper Pass 204-7, 205, DOC visitor centres 271 168-9, 170, 11 206-7 Hurunui Hot Springs 206 gateway towns 271 Kepler Track 11, 284-7, accommodation 204 Kaitoke Hot Springs 73-4, 75 internet resources 271 285, 11, 41 maps 204 travel seasons 270 Lake Waikaremoana planning 204 Ketetahi Hot Springs 98 first aid 46 Great Walk 10, 103-6, travel to/from 204 Ohinepango Springs 101 fishing 29, 250 104-5, 3 Hauraki Rail Trail 85 Welcome Flat Thermal Springs 232 Flanagan’s Corner 169 Milford Track 12, 274-9, Hawkswood Range 153 276-7, , hotels 336-8 Flea Bay Cottage 193 276-7 12 health 323 housing crisis 301 flora 314-18 13, 225, 13 Bridge 171 Hump Ridge Track 289-93, Flora Saddle 173 Rakiura Track 12, 294-7, Heaphy Track 11, 167-72, , 290 Foliage Hill 212 295 13 168-9, 170, 11 Routeburn Track 12, accommodation 291 food 51, 322-3 accommodation 167-8 242-6, 243, 8 guided tramps 291 footwear 48 guided tramps 168 Tongariro Northern history 289-90 Forest Burn Saddle 286 maps 167 Circuit 9, 98-101, 99, 9 maps 291 Fox Glacier 236 mountain biking 171 Whanganui Journey 10, packing 167 packing 291 Franz Josef Glacier 237 120, 10 planning 167-8 planning 291 Freda’s Rock 213 Greenstone Caples Track travel to/from 168 travel seasons 291 246-50, 247 Heartbreak Hill 287 travel to/from 291 accommodation 246-7 G heatstroke 42-3 Hut Spur 208 gaiters 48 guided tramps 247 Herangi Hill 61 huts 15, 337, 338 2 gay travellers 323 maps 246 Hillary, Sir Edmund 212 Ada Pass Hut 196 Gentle Annie Hill 279 planning 246-7 Hinewai Reserve 194 Anchorage Hut 163 safety 248 Gertrude Saddle 287-9, 288 history 18, 302-11 Angelus Hut 179 travel seasons 246 huts 288 20th century 309-10 Anne Hut 197 travel to/from 247 maps 288 connections to Britain Architect Creek Hut 232 Greenstone Flats 249 planning 288 306-11 Arthurs Creek Hut 251 344 huts continued Lewis Hut 170 Welcome Flat Hut 232 packing 84 Aspiring Hut 255 Liverpool Hut 255 West Sabine Hut 183 planning 84 Atiwhakatu Hut 129 Locke Stream Hut 205 Whanganui Hut 106 travel seasons 84 Awaroa Hut 165 Luxmore Hut 286 Whariwharangi Hut 166 travel to/from 84 Bark Bay Hut 164 Lyell Saddle Hut 223 Young Hut 259 Karearea 36, 124, 151, Bealey Spur Hut 208 Maketawa Hut 118 Hydrocamp 81 175, 210, 224, 264, 36

INDEX INDEX Beech Hut 279 Mangatepopo Hut hypothermia 42 Katipo Shelter 171 Blue Lake Hut 183 97, 100 Kauaeranga Gorge 82 Boyle Flat Hut 198 Marauiti Hut 106 Kauaeranga Kauri Trail

H I  Browning Hut 150 Martins Bay Hut 284 78-82, 80-1

– immigration 327

L Camerons Hut 205 McKellar Hut 248 accommodation 79-80 injuries 46  McKerrow Island Hut 282 maps 79 Cannibal Gorge Hut 196 Inland Pack Track 226-9, Mid Caples Hut 248 planning 79-80 Cape Brett Hut 66 227 Mid Greenstone Hut 249 travel seasons 79 Captains Creek Hut 149 accommodation 227 Middy Creek Hut 149 travel to/from 80 Christopher (Ada) maps 227 Cullers Hut 197 Mingha Bivouac 203 kauri 74, 79 packing 227 Christopher Hut 197 Mintaro Hut 278 kayaking 33, 162 planning 227 Clinton Hut 278 Mokihinui Forks Hut 224 Point 212 travel seasons 227, 228 Coldwater Hut 180, 182 Moturau Hut 287 Kenepuru Saddle 145 travel to/from 227-8 Daleys Flat Hut 253 Mt Arthur Hut 173 Kepler Track 11, 284-7, 285, insurance 323 Dart Hut 252 Mt Heale Hut 74 285, 11, 41 internet access 323 Demon Trail Hut 282, Mueller Hut 212 accommodation 284-5 internet cafes 324 283 North Arm Hut 296 maps 284 internet resources 312 Douglas Rock Hut 232-3 Old Shelter Rock Hut 252 packing 284 Invercargill 298 Dumpling Hut 279 Old Waihohonu Hut 101 planning 284-5 itineraries 19-22, , , Flora Hut 174 19 20 travel seasons 284 Oturere Hut 100, 2 21, 22 Ghost Lake Hut 223 Panekire Hut 105 kereru 34, 77, 124, 191, Iwituaroa Reserve 146 226, 274 Goat Creek Hut 224 Perry Saddle Hut 169 Kidney Fern Arm 297 Goat Pass Hut 203 Pinnacles Hut 81, 82 kiwis 16, 28, 34, 77, 127, Gouland Downs Hut 169 Port William Hut 296 J Greenstone Hut 249 Jamestown 283 167, 175-6, 219, 221, Pouakai Hut 120 226, 230, 293, 294, 314, Hacket Hut 151 jetboating 33, 292, 3 Powell Hut 129 316, 35 Harper Pass Bivouac 205 Rat’s Nest Hut 249 Kiwi Valley 206 Heaphy Hut 171 Rocks Hut 150 K korimako 34, 77, 124, 141, Hidden Falls Hut 281 Roebuck Hut 150 Kahurangi National Park 151, 159, 175, 181, 191, Hokuri Hut 283 Rokeby Hut 198 166-74 199, 226, 242, 264, 314, Holly Hut 119 Routeburn Falls Hut 245 environment 166-7 Homer Hut 289 history 166 Routeburn Flats Hut 244 L Hurunui Hut 206 planning 167 Sabine Hut 184 Lake Angelus Track 179-80 Hurunui No 3 Hut 205 travel seasons 167 Saxon Hut 169 Lake Waikaremoana 10, 10 Iris Burn Hut 287 Kaiauai Shelter 121 Shallow Bay Hut 287 Lake Waikaremoana Great James Mackay Hut 170 Kaikoura 155 Shelter Rock Hut 252 Walk 103-6, 104-5 John Tait Hut 182 Siberia Hut 260 Kaikoura Coast Track accommodation 103 Jumbo Hut 129 151-3, 152 Speargrass Hut 184 guided tramps 103-4 Kahui Hut 115 accommodation 152 Specimen Point Hut 224 maps 103 Kaiaraara Hut 75 environment 151 Stern Valley Hut 224 planning 103-4 Kerin Forks Hut 260 history 151 Sunrise Hut 126 travel seasons 103 Kiwi Hut 205 maps 152 Syme Hut 118 travel to/from 104 Lake Alabaster Hut 282 packing 152 Upper Caples Hut 248 Lakehead Track 182 Lake Dive Hut 117 planning 151-2 Upper Deception Hut 203 lakes Lake Howden Hut 246, travel seasons 151 Upper Gridiron Hut 174 Black Lake 289 248 travel to/from 152 Upper Travers Hut 182 Blue Lake 97 Lakehead Hut 182 Kaitaia 87 Waiaua Gorge Hut 115 Crucible Lake 260 Lake Mackenzie Hut 245 Kapowairua 62-3 Waiharuru Hut 106 Diamond Lake 264 Karamea 187 Waihohonu Hut 101 Emerald Lakes 97 Karangahake Gorge Waingongoro Hut 118 Hidden Lake 278 82-5, 83 Map Pages 000 Waiopaoa Hut 105 Hooker Lake 214 history 84 Photo Pages 000 Wehi Wehi Hut 65 Lake Ada 279 maps 84 345 Lake Alabaster 282 maps 39-40, 324 Mt Montgomery 223 Bell Rock 279 Lake Angelus 179-80, 184 Marahau 163-4 Mt Ollivier 212 Dudley Knob 203 Lake Cheerful 224 Masterton 135-6 Mt Travers 183 Luncheon Rock 292 Lake Grim 224 Maungapiko Lookout 75 Photographic Peak 121-6 Parachute Rocks 181 Lake Harris 245 McKellar Saddle 248 Pouakai 121 Rocky Point 287 Lake Howden 246, 248 McKerrow Island 282 Pukehuia 65 navigation 39-40, 45

Lake Mackenzie 245 measures 323 Rocky Mountain 264-5 Nelson 184-5 INDEX 236 Medina 153 Rocky Tor 223 Nelson Lakes National Park Lake Mavis 203 Medina Conservation Area Skull Peak 153 174-84, 176-7 accommodation 178  L 152-3

Lake McKellar 248 Tahurangi 119 –

Lake McKerrow 282 Meretoto/Ship Cove 143 Te Paki 62 environment 175-8 P  Lake Rere 249 Milford Track 12, 274-9, Tirikawa Pa 62 history 175 180, 182 276-7, 12 Wooded Peak 150 maps 178 184 accomodation 275 Mt Arthur Summit Track 174 packing 178 206 guided tramps 275 Mt Aspiring National Park planning 178 Lake Waikaremoana maps 275 241-60, 50 travel seasons 178 10, 10 packing 275 environment 241-2 travel to/from 178 Prairie Lake 278 planning 275 history 241 New Plymouth 132-3 Tama Lakes 98, 101 travel seasons 275 Mt Aspiring National Park New Zealand pigeon, see landslides 230 travel to/from 277 & Around Queenstown kereru languages 14 miromiro 36, 36 (region) 54, 238-69, newspapers 323 legal matters 324 mobile phones 14 240 Ngaroma Farm 152 books 239 lenticular clouds 40, 41 Mokihinui Forest 224 North Arm 296 climate 238 LGBT travellers 324 Mokihinui Gorge 224 North Crater 97 DOC visitor centres 239 lighthouses money 14, 324-5 North West Circuit 294 gateway towns 239 Cape Brett Lighthouse 66 money changers 325 Northland, Auckland & internet resources 239 Coromandel (region) literature 300 morepork, see ruru travel seasons 238 52, 56-89, 58 Little Homer Saddle 281 Moriori 303 Mt Cook Village 212, 217 books 57 lizards 317 motels 336-8 Mt Holdsworth-Jumbo climate 56 lodges motorcycle travel 330-3 Circuit 127-9, 128 DOC visitor centres 57 Awaroa Lodge 165 Motuara Island 143 accommodation 127-8 gateway towns 57 Furneaux Lodge 143-4 Motueka 185-6 maps 127 highlights 57 Hope Kiwi Lodge 206 mountain biking 18, packing 127 internet resources 57 Lochmara Lodge 145 29-30, 78, 144, 171, see also cycling planning 127-8 planning 56-7 Mahana Lodge 144 mountain passes 17 travel seasons 127 travel seasons 56 Okaka Lodge 292 Mountain Safety travel to/from 128 Port Craig Lodge 292 Council 42 Mt Robert Circuit 179 Salisbury Lodge 174 O mountaineering 30 Mt Taranaki 116-17, 122, 5 Long Trestle Bridge 82 Old Ghost Road 221-4, 222 mountains Mt Taranaki Summit 123 loop hikes 18 accommodation 221-2 Aoraki/Mt Cook 210 packing 123 Loop Track 181 history 221 Avalanche Peak 202 planning 123 Lord of the Rings film maps 221 Dome 115 travel seasons 123 locations 93, 130, 241 planning 221-2 Dun Mountain 150 Mueller Hut Route 210-12, Lyell Cemetery 223 travel seasons 221 Fanthams Peak 118 211 Lyell Range 223 travel to/from 222 Flagtop 179 accommodation 211-12 Old Waihohonu Hut 101 Gordons Pyramid 174 maps 211 Onahau Lookout 146 M Henry Peak 121 packing 211 Onepoto 104-5 Mackay Downs 170 Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) planning 211-12 opening hours 325 Mackinnon Pass 279 74 Mueller Hut Route Mutton Manganui Gorge 118 Hump 120 Cove 165 Orchard 245 Mangatepopo Valley 100 Julius Summit 179 Oreville Stamping Battery 75 Māori people Jumbo 129 N Oturere Hut 100, history 302-3 2 Lizard 123 Napier 133-4 Maori tribes Maude Peak 120 National Park Village 108-9 Ngāti Apa 124 Mt Angelus 180 national parks 94, 318 P Ngāti Kahungungu 124 packing 47, 49 Mt Arthur 172, 174 natural formations Ngati Tuwharetoa 93, 94 Palmerston North 134-5 Mt Holdsworth 129 Arch Point 164 Tainui 67 Panekiri Bluff 105 Mt Luxmore 286 Ballroom Overhang 229 346 pukeko 34, 314, 34 Rawhiti 65-6 Route Burn 244 224-9 Pukenui Trig 105 Red Crater 97 Saxon River 170 environment 226 Punakaiki 235-6 Rees Saddle 252 Stony River 115 history 225-6 Punakaiki River Track 229 Rees-Dart Track 250-3, 251 205 planning 226 Putangirua Pinnacles 130-1 accommodation 250 180, 182 Paparoa Track 13, 225, 13 accommodation 130 maps 250 Waimakariri River 208 INDEX INDEX Paradise Farm 193 maps 130 planning 250-1 Waipawa River 126 passport 327 packing 130 travel seasons 250 Waitawheta River 84 Patekaha Island 106 planning 130 travel to/from 251 Waiwhakaiho River 121 P Paterson Inlet 296 travel seasons 130 rental accommodation 338 West Branch Sabine –

S Peak 1538 249 travel to/from 130 rescue 44 River 183  Pelorus Bridge Scenic resorts Wilkin River 260 Reserve 149 Young River 259 Q Endeavour Resort 144 Pelorus Track 146-51, 147 Rob Roy Track 256-7, 257 Queen Charlotte & Portage Resort Hotel 145 accommodation 148 Marlborough (region) Punga Cove Resort 144 accommodation 256 environment 148 53, 138-55 Te Mahia Bay Resort 146 guided tramps 256 history 148 books 139 ride-sharing 333 maps 256 maps 148 climate 138 rifleman, see tititipounamu planning 256 planning 148 environment 141 riroriro 34, 124, 127, 151, travel seasons 256 travel seasons 148 gateway towns 139 199, 226, 264 travel to/from 256 travel to/from 148-9 history 141 river crossings 43-4 Robert Ridge 179, 180, 184 292 internet resources 139 rivers 17-18 rock climbing 30-1, 31 Peters Point 296 travel seaons 138 Anne River 197 Routeburn Classic 244 Phils Knob 196 visitor information Bealey River 203 Routeburn Gorge 244 Phoenix Bluff 244 centres 139 Boyle River 197, 207 Routeburn Track 12, 242-6, Picton 154-5 Queen Charlotte Track Clinton River 278 243, 12 Pinnacles 81-2, 131 141-6, 142-3 Copland River 232 accommodation 243 piwakawaka 34, 124, 181, accommodation 142 Dart River 252 guided tramps 243-4 199, 226, 242, 264, 257, maps 142 Deception River 203 maps 242 274, 314, 34 mountain biking 144 East Branch Sabine planning 242-4 planning 23-7 packing 142 River 183 travel seasons 242 budgeting 15 planning 142-3 Falls River 164 travel to/from 244 clothing 47-8 travel seasons 142 Forest Burn 287 Roys Peak 262-3, 263 equipment 38, 39-40, travel to/from 143 Fox River 228 maps 262 48-51 Queenstown 260, 266-7 Greenstone River 248, travel seasons 262 food 51 Quinns Flat 253 249 travel to/from 262-3 internet resources 15 Gunner River 171 Ruahine Forest Park 123-6 itineraries 19-22 Heaphy River 170 climate 124 New Zealand basics R Henry River 197 environment 124 14-15 radio 323 Hollyford River 281 history 124 New Zealand’s regions Raingauge Spur 129 Hooker River 213 52-4 Rakiura Track 12, 294-7, rugby 301 206 safety 38-46 295, 13 ruru 36, 242, 37 205 travel seasons 14 accommodation 295 Russell 87-8 Iris Burn 286 weather 14 maps 295 232 politics 300-1 packing 295 Kauaeranga River 81 S population 301 planning 294-6 safety 38-46, 95, 180, Kohaihai River 172 Portage 145-6 travel seasons 294 325, 333 Makarora River 259, 260 postal services 325 travel to/from 296 Mt Taranaki 114 Matukituki River West Pouakai 120 Rangitoto Island Loop Sand Hill Point Viaduct 292 Branch 255 Pouakai Circuit 118-21 66-70, 68-9 Scott Point 61 Mingha River 203 Pouakai Crossing 121-2 accommodation 69 Scotts Track 202 Ohinemuri River 84 Pouakai Tarns 121 environment 68-9 scuba diving 31 Otehake River 205 public holidays 325 history 67-8 sea kayaking 29 Otira River 204 pubs 336-8 maps 69 Seal Cove 193 Pelorus River 149 packing 69 seals 284, Pororari River 228 17 planning 69 Sealy Tarns Track 212 Pyke River 281-2 Map Pages 000 travel seasons 69 Seatonville 224 Rees River 251, 252 Photo Pages 000 travel to/from 69 Separation Point 165 Roaring Burn 279 347 short walks 66-7 Suicide Slips 224 Te Wairoa 312 tuataras 317 Siberia Stream Flats 259 sunburn 42-3 telephone services 326 Turangi 107-8 Silica Rapids 98 Sunrise Track 124-6, 125 tents 50-1 Tutakakahikura Scenic silvereye, see tauhou accommodation 125 Thames 89 Reserve 193 skiing 32 maps 125 Third House Shelter 150 TV 323 Skyline Ridge 223 packing 125 Tiki Trail 261 Twilight-Te Werahi Loop

Track 62 INDEX Skyline Route 98 planning 125 time 14, 326 sleeping bags & mats travel seasons 125 tipping 325 49-50 travel to/from 125 tititipounamu 34, 124, 175, U smoking 323 surfing 32-3 199, 226, 242, 258, 35 Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara  S – snorkelling 31 toilets 326 294 W  snowboarding 32, 32 tomtit, see miromiro Soda Springs 97 T Marine Tableland Circuit 172-4, 173 Reserve 164 V Sooty Shearwater vacations 325 Conservation Project accommodation 172 Tonga Quarry 164 Victoria Battery 85 193 guided tramps 172 Tongariro Alpine Crossing visas 14, 322-4 South Crater 97 maps 172 95-8, 96 volcanoes 16, 312-13 Southland Museum 317 planning 172 accommodation 97 Mt Ngauruhoe 93, 94, Speargrass Track 184 travel to/from 172 packing 96 95, 100 St Arnaud Range Track Takaka 186-7 planning 96-7 Mt Ruapehu 93, 98, 180-1 Talisman Battery 84 travel seasons 96 126 St James Walkway 194-8, Tama Saddle 101 travel to/from 97 Mt Taranaki 113-14 195 Taranaki & Southern North Tongariro National Park Mt Tongariro 94 accommodation 196 Island (region) 52, 93-101 Pukekaikiore 100 environment 194 110-37, 112 environment 94 Pukeonake 100 history 194 books 111 guided tramps 95 Rangitoto 67, 68 maps 196 climate 110 history 93-4 volunteering 326 packing 195 DOC visitor centres 111 maps 95 planning 194-6 gateway towns 111 packing 95 travel seasons 194-5 internet resources 111 planning 95 W travel to/from 196 travel seasons 110 travel seasons 95 Waiaua Gorge 117 Stack Conservation Area Tararua Forest Park 126-9 Tongariro Northern Circuit Waimangu Volcanic Valley 313 263 climate 127 9, 98-101, 99, 9 Stag Point 292 environment 127 accommodation 99-100 Wainui 166 Stern Valley 223 history 126-7 planning 99-100 Wairaumoana 105 Stewart Island/Rakiura Tarawamaomao Point 61-2 travel to/from 100 Wairoa 109 293-7 tauhou 34, 141, 314, 34 Tongariro, Te Urewera & Waitahora Lagoon 63 environment 293-4 Taupo 106-7 Central North Island Waitākere Ranges 71 history 293 Tawa Saddle 143 (region) 52, 90-109, 92 walking poles 51 stoves 50 taxes 323 books 91 Wanaka 260-6, 267-9 Stratford Plateau 118 Te Anau 297-8 gateway towns 91 water 46 streams Te Araroa 63 information centres 91 waterfalls 18 Atiwhakatu Stream 128 Te Kopi 131 internet resources 91 Bells Falls 115, 119, 121 Bruce Stream 208 Te Kotoreotaunoa Point 105 Torea Saddle 145 Billygoat (Atuatumoe) Cedric Stream 184 Te Paki Coastal Track Totara Saddle 150 Falls 82 Fishtail Stream 149 59-63, 60 Totaranui 165 Brides Veil Falls 255 Gillespie Stream 259 accommodation 61 tourist information 326 Cascade Falls 164 Hukere Stream 180 environment 59 train travel 333-4 Dawson Falls 117-18 Kiwiriki Stream 75 history 59 transport 327-34 Devil’s Punchbowl Falls 202 Liverpool Stream 255 maps 61 travellers cheques 325 Dudleigh Falls 279 McMillan Stream 206 packing 59, 61 travel to/from New Zealand Earland Falls 245 Siberia Stream 259 planning 59, 61 327-8 Giant Gate Falls 279 Stocking Stream 214 travel seasons 59 travel within New Zealand Hidden Falls 281 Stony Bay Stream 194 travel to/from 61 328-34 Hirere Falls 278 Sugar Loaf Stream 244 Te Urewera 102-6 Travers Valley 180 Iris Burn Waterfall 287 Te Paki Stream accommodation 103 Travers-Sabine Circuit 181-4 Kauri Falls 75 (Kauaeparaoa) 61 environment 102-3 Treaty of Waitangi 306 Korokoro Falls 105 Three Mile Stream 206 history 102 trees 317-18 Little Homer Falls 281 Waihohonu Stream 101 planning 103 Trig F 292 348 waterfalls continued Welcome Flat 230-3, 231 gateway towns 219 whale-watching 316-17 Mackay Falls 279 accommodation 231 internet resources 219 Whanganui Journey 10, Owharoa Falls 85 maps 231 travel seasons 218 120, 10 Routeburn Falls 245 planning 231 West Coast Wildlife Centre Whangarei 88-9 St Quintin Falls 278 safety 230 219 whio 36, 127, 148, 167, 202, Sutherland Falls 279 travel seasons 231, 232 Westland Tai Poutini 221, 224, 242, 278, 37

INDEX INDEX Taranaki Falls 98, 101 travel to/from 231 National Park 229- white-water rafting 33 33, Travers Falls 182 Welcome Flat Wellington 43 wi-fi 324 environment 230 Waitonga Falls 98 136-7 wildlife 16, 34-7, 314-17

W history 229-30 weather 40, 42, 320-1 West Coast (region) 53, Wilkies Pools 118 planning 230 weights 323 218-37 220 Wilsons Camp 255 Westport 233-4 weka 34, 141, 143, 148, 173, books 219 women travellers 326 Whakapapa Village 100, 101 226, 34 climate 218 woodhen, see weka DOC visitor centres 219 Whakarewarewa Village 313 Woodstock Battery 84

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 349 NOTES 350 NOTES EMMA NEUVONEN

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Andrew Bain Andrew prefers adventure to avarice and can usually be found walking when he should be working. His writing and photography feature in magazines and newspapers around the world, and his writing has won multiple awards, in- cluding Best Adventure Story and Best Australian Story (three times) from the Australian Society of Travel Writers. He was formerly commissioning editor of Lonely Planet’s outdoor adventure series of titles, and is the author of Head- winds, the story of his 20,000-kilometre cycle journey around Australia, and Lonely Planet’s A Year of Adventures.

Jim DuFresne Jim first came to New Zealand more than 20 years ago in search of high peaks and wild places. He found both, along with some fine trout fishing, and has been returning ever since with his backpack and fly rod in hand. Jim began his writing career as the sports and outdoors editor of the Juneau Empire and was the first Alaskan sportswriter to win a national award from Associated Press. Today he lives in Michigan and feeds his appetite for the alpine world with frequent trips to Alaska and New Zealand, having authored Lonely Planet’s Alaska, Hiking in Alaska and previous editions of this guidebook.

Contributing Writers Brett Atkinson Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but is frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer, specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations and surprising angles on more well known destinations. Peter Dragicevic Over the last decade Peter has written dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He calls Auckland, New Zealand his home. Samantha Forge Samantha became hooked on travel at the age of 17, when she arrived in London with an overstuffed backpack and a copy of Lonely Planet’sEurope on a Shoestring. After a stint in Paris, she moved back to Australia and now works as a freelance writer and editor. Anita Isalska After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Plan- et’s London office – Anita now works freelance between Australia, the UK and any Alpine chalet with good wi-fi. Sofia Levin Sofia is a Melbourne-based journalist with an insatiable appetite for food and travel. A regular contributor to Lonely Planet, Sofia also runs Word Salad – a social media and copywriting business, plus has an Insta-famous toy poodle, @lifeofjinkee.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 8th edition – Dec 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 269 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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