Index Cover Photographer

Alex Double is British and started 6 Editor’s Letter diving in1963 and soon became a 7 South Baja Realtors Celebrates a Decade BSAC National Instructor (No.19) and took his first tentative underwa- in Business! ter photos, using a borrowed Rus- sian Zenith SLR camera. His love of 8 The Giant Pacific Mantas are Back! the sea and of diving drew him away 10 Jonn Izzik Art Exhibition from the UK to pursue a career as a diving instructor/guide and eventually as captain of live-aboard div- 11 All About Guavas ing boats. In 1978 he became operations manager of an adventure 12 La Hora del Rancho – A Cultural Experience diving company in the Red Sea, Sudan. There he met his future wife Tamara the following year. Together they worked throughout in La Paz the length and breadth of the Red Sea, in land operations and on live-aboard boats, which Alex skippered, for the next 15 years. 14 Hurricane Hunters in La Paz During that time Alex took thousands of underwater images and in 16 Paying Taxes on Rental Income From Mexico 1986 won first prize in the Underwater World category of the BBC Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition. 17 Home Staging in Baja Sur 18 The Map Alex retired in 2012 and two years later they finally sold up, packed up and shipped off all their worldly possessions to La Paz, 20 Smiley Citizens with their cockatoo Gnasher and Tamara’s mum in tow! Here they 22 Ramblings: Stem Cell Hope are happy and kept pretty busy supporting and volunteering for certain marine conservation groups, caring for the birds in the local 24 Non-Profit Spotlight – FANLAP serpentarium as well as their own pet birds. Alex, now equipped with a somewhat better camera, continues to hone his underwater (Fundación Ayuda los Niños de La Paz) photographic skills. 26 Municipal Property Tax Discounts 28 What’s Up in La Paz?! 30 A Lesson About Balance: A Stand-Up Paddle Boarding Lesson 32 What is Buen Fin?

Editor Gari-Ellen Donohoe [email protected] 612 159 1388

Graphic Design [email protected]

The Baja Citizen community magazine is a monthly, free circulation magazine that is distributed in La Paz and the communities of El Cen- tenario, Todos Santos, El Pescadero, El Sargento, La Ventana and Los Barriles.

The views of contributors to The Baja Citizen community magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers.

Publisher: Hally J. Productions S. de R.L. La Paz, BCS, Mexico 23090

The Baja Citizen 4 November 2018 Letter from the Editor THE BAJA CITIZEN is back from a sum- And speaking of thoughtful and consid- mer holiday break! erate people, a huge shout out to Victor Granados, Edith Gonzalez and the staff Greetings and a sunny welcome to our at South Baja Realtors on celebrating November edition of The Baja Citizen. a decade in the real estate business, no The gang and I are back to work and the small feat here in La Paz! I have been in- magazine is back into circulation on the vited to their anniversary bash that they streets of La Paz, El Centenario, La Ven- have held on every October 8th for as tana/ El Sargento, Los Barriles, and To- long as I have had The Baja Citizen and dos Santos. We will be publishing again this is one couple who truly get what life monthly from November through May is all about. They are graciously thank- with six editions filled with important ful for the life they have built themselves news, culture events, real estate and lo- in La Paz and never take anything for cal stories. granted. I wish them all the success that comes their way. Their anniversary story We will continue to publish a product is on page 7. that reflects and highlights all the best of our community. We are also honored to On page 24 you can read a little bit about share the stories of so many committed FANLAP, Fundación Ayuda Niños La and thoughtful people that make living Paz, in the non-profit spotlight. FAN- in Baja California Sur great. Sometimes LAP’s mission is to provide basic sup- those people even help get The Baja Citi- port of food and education for children zen to print! and adolescents from impoverished ar- eas to give them the opportunity to com- A huge thank-you to our cover photog- plete their education and improve the rapher, Alex Double, who graciously quality of their lives. Brian shares his shared with us his amazing photos of touching story about his work as a vol- the beautiful giant mantas that are once unteer for FANLAP on page 24. again swimming in the waters of the Sea of Cortez. You can read more about the Just a reminder, What’s Up in La Paz?! Pacific mantas on page 8 (thank- you is home to upcoming events and holiday Pablo Ahuja). A short bio of Mr. Dou- news. You can check it out on page 28. ble can be found on page 4, but it truly If you have an upcoming event, please doesn’t do him any justice. submit a short paragraph with all the important information so we can get the Russ Ham has to be The Baja Citizen’s word out. Information for events must be most enthusiastic writer! He is the one received before the 15th of each month that gets me excited to start each new for publication in the following month’s edition. For each assignment that he sets issue. Please send event details to me at out on, no language or cultural barrier [email protected]. can stop him! He looks for the uncom- mon local story, gets his interviews and The Baja Citizen community magazine gets in and takes the most fantastic pho- will continue with its Facebook page, tos that his pictures could tell the story thebajacitizen, and also with on-line all on their own. In this November edi- news at www.bajacitizen.com. News and tion, Mr. Ham has set out to introduce events from around the city will be up- most of us to La Hora del Rancho – a loaded daily, so please check frequently. highly popular program produced here in La Paz that reaches all corners of Baja Enjoy this latest edition. It feels good to California Sur. Even my ever-faithful be back! graphic artist Gaby said to me, “How cool you have an article on La Hora del Rancho – my mom loves that show!” You can read more about La Hora del Rancho Yours, on page 12. Gari-Ellen

The Baja Citizen 6 November 2018 November 2018 7 The Baja Citizen or trawling damage this northernmost their ventral side and by using SCUBA “The truth is we don´t know,” said Ahuja. The Manta Mexico team has expanded to coral reef in the Pacific Ocean was near the researchers simply swam under them “These are juveniles and they may use include researchers from Tiburon Balle- collapse. and took pictures as the graceful rays the area as a nursey in the way that the na Mexico, ECO, Pelagic Life, the World navigated the waters around Cerralvo Is- whale sharks do.” The life history of Wildlife Fund and Pelagios Kakunjá. Local fisherman converting their per- land. The spots serve as a “fingerprint” mantas is one of the great unknowns of These last two organizations have helped sonal economy towards eco-tourism cou- to identify individuals. the natural world. provide funding to place satellite and pled with conservation efforts by several acoustic tags on several mantas this year. NG0s helped to turn the situation around. “Once you are under the mantas you can ¨While we try to figure out their “The acoustic tags send a message to re- Both local success stories were the result also tell if they are male or female and disappearance and resurgence we ceivers we have placed on several reefs in of years of hard work and the combined they all seem to enjoy the bubbles re- are also trying to protect them,” said the area, so we will know more about the forces of all those concerned about our leased from breathing with the SCUBA Arturo Bocos, a marine biologist with mantas habitat use,” explained Dr. Frida oceans. gear,” added Ahuja. the Manta Mexico team and ECO, a Lara. “The satellite tags will give us data reef conservation project. “We are in the future about the mantas long-term This story of a species surprising recov- The researchers identified 52 individual encouraging best practices for interaction movements, the depths they prefer at ery starts out differently. The mantas are mantas in the 2001 and 2002 seasons with the mantas and the reborn tourism night and their global position.” back, and no one really knows why. The which ran from June through November. industry. Obviously, no one should touch return of these majestic flying carpets is Then in 2003, the giant rays suddenly or ride them but we have also document- ¨This project has come a long way,” an incredible joy to local divers, tourist disappeared. ed that anchor lines regularly harm the concluded Ahuja. “With the help of a providers, conservationists and of course mantas,” concluded Bocos. strong team of biologists, the latest tech- manta researchers. However, this last ¨We looked and looked, maybe 4 or 5 nology and a great group of professional group is also completely mystified. times a week but found nothing,” said The majestic animals seem to not be able photographers we hope to be able to an- Ahuja. The Manta Mexico research team to spot the ropes and injure themselves or swer some of the harder questions and “The last confirmed sighting in Isla Cer- was backed up by SCUBA divers from even catch in the anchor lines snapping find ways to protect these beautiful ani- ralvo was in 2002,” according to Pablo around the world that flocked to this now them off the boats only to later drag away mals and their habitat.” Ahuja of Manta Mexico. ¨They have been famous manta dive location. No one saw the line, anchor and chain as they be- gone for around 16 years and we are still a manta for years until a few sightings come hopelessly entangled. To avoid this For more information on best practices, looking for an explanation for their dis- in 2017 and then a full-blown return this Manta Mexico is encouraging all visitors responsible tour operators, donations or appearance and now they have returned, year. to not anchor at the site and at the same general questions please send an e-mail literally out of the blue.” time, they can also protect the corals in to [email protected] or call “We saw one in June of this year and we the area. 612 154 9859. Manta Mexico was formed as a research were shocked,” explained Erick Higuera, project by Ahuja, a marine biologist, in a marine biologist who works with Manta 1999 along with Dr. Felipe Galvan of Mexico and another organization called CICIMAR (Centro Interdisiplinaria de Pelagic Life. “And then they just kept Ciencias Marinas). Dr Galvan is one of coming and coming.” Higuera is one of the leading experts in Mexico on sharks the initial researchers locally and has as well as their relatives the rays and since been studying mantas in the Revil- Photo courtesy of Alex Double skates. The project began as a study of lagigedo Islands some 400 miles south of the behavior of the manta rays and later Cabo San Lucas. expanded to look at residency, distribu- The Giant Pacific tion, gender balance and interaction us- “So far we have identified 14 individual ing photo ID techniques. mantas in the last few months and thanks to the original work done earlier this cen- Mantas are Back! “At the time Photo ID was cutting edge tury we can say for sure these are all new stuff with the mantas,” explained Ahuja. animals to the area.” TBC Photo Identification of wild species as op- The oldest such story is perhaps the mag- posed to tagging or marking animals has The mantas of Cerralvo are juveniles In one of the most incredible turnarounds nificent recovery of the gray whales and become the preferred technique of study ranging from 6-12 ft. (2-4 meters) and in recent times in ourincreasingly threat- the protection of their birthing lagoons and animals as diverse as whales, zebras, have not yet reached their full size of ened world´s oceans, the story of the gi- on the Pacific shores of the Baja. Twice jaguars, elephants and even sharks. The 27 ft. (9 meters). The researchers are ant pacific mantas Mobula( birostris) is pulled from the jaws of extinction the animals can be identified as individuals still looking for an explanation for their one of the most amazing and mysterious. gray whale population has a made a full simply by maintaining a series of photos. strange disappearance and miraculous recovery. Almost like a Facebook or Instagram of return.Theories range from some trau- The Gulf of California or Sea of Cortez the wild kingdom. matic event such as an orca attack, har- as it is also known, as well as the Pacific A more recent experiment in ecosystem poon fishing or even mass capture in side of the peninsula are no newcomers recovery is the unequaled success of the The Photo ID allowed the Manta Mexico fishing nets, that while not killing all to remarkable recoveries and empower- comeback of the Cabo Pulmo coral reef to proceed very quickly in establishing a the animals, would have been enough to ing stories of entire ecosystems coming habitat. Once severely threatened by minimum population and gender balance. convince the surviving population to go back from the brink of complete loss. overfishing, ghost nets as well as anchor The mantas all have distinctive spots on elsewhere. Photo courtesy of Alex Double

The Baja Citizen 8 November 2018 November 2018 9 The Baja Citizen there will be a All About Guavas Jazz and Big Band Music concert performed by the An adapted piece by Lee Moore very talented The Big Band of La If you have a bowl of guavas in your In traditional Baja folk medicine, Paz, conducted by kitchen, their oversized, pungent odor is a tea of guava seeds is used to internationally re- guaranteed to make visitors ask, “What control diarrhea. But they must nowned Grammy is that wonderful smell?” be used with care. One common winner, Maestro joke in Spanish asks how a blan- Terry Townson. The guayaba, or guava, is a small fruit ket and a guava seed are alike. with a great big aroma--and lots and lots The answer is they both are used Born in Ghent, of seeds. It ranges from the size of a ping- to “tapar,” a word which means Flanders (Belgium), pong ball to that of a golf-ball. Guaya- both to cover up and to stop up. Jonn Izzik began bas ripen from pale green to a soft yel- vas down, while the kids scramble to pick painting at a very low from October to January, so you may The cojollos, or new tightly rolled leaves them up and put them into their buckets. early age, signing find some in the supermarkets now if you of the guava tree, are also made into a his works with the want to give them a try. tea, which is traditionally used to combat Sugar is a standard way of preserving pseudonym “Ja- hangovers. food in all non-refrigerated societies, and nus,” his childhood the process of guayabate-making up in nickname. When the guava trees begin to bear in the mountain ranchos is very reminiscent quantity, the women of the local villages of nineteenth-century jam making pro- “I was just 14 when I left an artist supply store with my first can- get out their buckets to gather fruit so cedures in Midwest America, before the vas on a stretcherframe and, several other supplies. I painted in that they may begin the yearly prepara- advent of Sure-Gel. Belgium, I painted in Vancouver BC, I painted in Oregon USA; tion of guayabate. In Todos Santos, for I was awarded small and not so small prizes local andnational. example, you will often see entire fami- While constantly stirring, a ranch wom- My work was in Expo 86 in Vancouver, British Columbia.” lies gathering guavas from the trees. an cooks a mixture of guava puree and This process is called “paleteando” (from Continues on page 33 Izzik has said he is often asked as to why he became an artist, “paleta,” which “Why am I an artist? The answer; For I must.” means “stick”). The mother or big Jonn Izzik Art “There were times, for a variety of reasons, that I could not be brother will be the painter I needed to be . . . and, then, never was truly happy. wielding the pole, Even, during these extended periods and times, if I wasn’t able knocking the gua- Exhibition to paint, recurring visions of possible paintings passed through *Opening December 6th at 7:00 pm my mind . . . every day.” Izik has said that his work, “…is guided by reaction of my TBC inborn intuition and clairvoyance – and in synergy with my psyche and talent. Expect my work to be capricious, roguish, Casa de Cultura del Estado de BCS “Maestro Armando Man- odd, colorful, unique, ironic, fantastic, beautiful, puckish, bold, ríquez Manríquez” is pleased to invite you to the art exhibition provocative and … whimsical.” “La Sabiduria de la Vida,” presenting the most recent works of artist Jonn Izzik. The world of fantastic beings and bold color harmonies found in Izzik’s work leads us—with fun and a touch The exhibition will be held at the “La Pin- of naughtiness—to the awareness of our un- tada” gallery, which is part of Casa de Cul- deniable need as human beings to live in har- tura del Estado de BCS “Maestro Armando mony with Nature. Manríquez Manríquez” and is located at 825 Madero Street, on the corner with Salvatierra Izzik has been awarded a number of interna- and Torre Iglesias, Col. Esterito (downtown). tional prizes and showed his work in several The exhibition runs from December 6th to countries including Canada, Holland, and January 24th, (8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Mexico. Just last year, Izzik was awarded Friday). Admission is free of charge. with the acquisition prize of the Visual Arts Biennale of the State of Baja California Sur. For the opening event of this art exhibition on Thursday, December 6th at 7:00 p.m., Today, Izzik is very happy living in La Paz.

The Baja Citizen 10 November 2018 November 2018 11 The Baja Citizen Photo courtesy of Russ Ham. Being live, there is always the potential Sundays. You can listen to the show at Dario Higuera Meza and Trudi Angell. It for the unexpected. Minor technical the same times on XHBCP 99.1 FM and takes us along on a re-enactment of the La Hora del Rancho; A Cultural issues will crop up, but so far, the worst XEBCS 1050 AM. Weekdays, there is a traditional mule pack trains that would incident Don Sergio can remember is daily radio show on the same stations at bring supplies to the ranchos via the old “when an intoxicated guy came toward 4:00. Canal 8 is part of the IERT, a public Spanish trails. This re-enactment was Experience in La Paz me while I was on camera, intending broadcasting network that strives to pre- mounted to fulfill Don Dario’s dream of to give me a hug, holding a ballena!” serve the many cultures of Mexico. showing his grandson Ramoncito the old Don Sergio is a son of the rancho, from 1999, Sergio had the idea — an idea he Otherwise, for nearly twenty years, the ways — ways Dario never saw but heard San Pedro, just south of La Paz. He called “una locura,” (“a craziness”) — to crowd has been polite and welcoming, For more on rancho culture, two docu- about from his own grandfather. Trailers heads a crew of twelve, including stage produce the show for television. Since just as you would expect at a rancho. mentaries are available on DVD. are on Facebook and YouTube. manager Francisco Hernandez and then, he and his team have produced “Corazón Vaquero: the Heart of the Cow- By Russ Ham cameraman Baltazar Romero Bastida. about 47 shows a year, taking breaks of The story is told of a nursing home where boy” is a 2008 English-language produc- Editor’s Note: The “Los Otros Cali- Indoors, Director Jessica Rieke calls only two or three weeks at the peak of the the residents were asked what they might tion by Cody McClintock that shows fornios” DVD and other books about the shots from five cameras. The show summer and in December. want for Christmas. A few considered ranch life in Baja California, largely rancho culture and history are available The culture of the peninsula, historic- also goes out on Facebook Live thanks asking for a scarf or purse, but the con- unchanged over three centuries. “Los at Allende Books, on Independencia near ally, has been the culture of the ranchos to Jairo Misael, who works his cellphone The outdoor stage is behind the studios of sensus answer was “we want to go see Otros Californios” by Cesar Talamantes Guillermo Prieto. — self-sufficient extended families that two hours without a break. Channel 8, the Instituto Estatal de Radio La Hora del Rancho.” If you don’t visit (2011), is a sympathetic look at the hard somehow scratched a living from the rug- y Television (“IERT”) near the grounds the set, you can watch La Hora del Ran- lives of the poorest of the rural villagers. Russ Ham is a musician, photographer, and writer who loves the people and culture of the peninsula. ged mountains and brutal deserts. Today, The bands come from all over Baja Cal- of the Teatro de la Ciudad. The set is cho on XHBZC, broadcast Channel 8 at Finally, watch for a new film next spring, He hosts an Open Mic night every other Wednes- tourism and urbanization are changing ifornia Sur. They are often brothers or visible from Calle Altamirano, near the 11:00 a.m. on Saturdays and 2:00 p.m. on “La Recua: Dario’s Dream,” directed by day at La Morante Art Bar. the region from Tijuana to Los Cabos, cousins who have played together most corner of Legaspy — look for the color- but the old ways endure. “La Hora del of their lives. Some are even the second ful background mural painted by Emilio Rancho” is a radio and television pro- generation of a band, such as Los Nuevos Arce Castro. The audience is an im- gram that showcases the music and hos- Hermanos Ramos — sons of the original portant part of the show; so everyone is pitality of the ranchos. Ramos brothers band. On the day that welcome to come, perch on the bleachers TBC took fotos, Los Perrones de la Sier- under the shade cloth, and dance on the The television program is produced at an ra were playing, but so many bands have newly bricked patio. Vendors sell em- outdoor studio almost every Saturday at appeared that Don Sergio says he has lost panadas and nieves. 11:00 a.m. It goes out live for two hours, count, although no band plays more than simulcast on radio. It is replayed on Sun- once a year. They are usually combos Don Sergio’s messages come from audi- days at 2:00, and weekdays there is a of three to five musicians. This is dance ence members or via Facebook or tele- daily radio show. music, so there is almost always a drum- phone. He reads dedications, shout-outs, mer and bassist, accompanied by guitar, announcements of birthdays or anniver- The show features a band and a dancing bajo sexto or bajo quinto, sometimes saries or congratulations for the same, audience. The music is mostly ranchera, an accordion, and of course, a vocalist. and health news like “papá is out of the or norteña, or “musica sierreña” — lit- The repertoire is thick with the popular hospital.” There are some that Sergio erally “mountain music” — but it is al- classics and the crowd often sings along. thinks may be jokes, but he reads them ways country music in traditional styles. Don Sergio always features the band’s all the same. To a rancher identified by Between songs, host Sergio Avilés Avilés phone number for bookings. name and barrio, “you need to corral chats with the band and reads messages your goats!” or “water your plants!” Or and community announcements from La Hora del Rancho began as a radio to a specific neighbor, “save me a plate viewers and listeners. show twenty-one years ago. In March from your barbecue!” Photo courtesy of Russ Ham.

The Baja Citizen 12 November 2018 November 2018 13 The Baja Citizen is doing saves lives and increases learn- ing about hurricanes. Kristie 46 was ap- proachable friendly and clearly enjoyed her job. Even the meet and greet on the ground. She made it a point to engage with school children coming aboard.

Captain Twining along with her co pilot Lieutenant Commander Rebecca Wad- dington have flown five missions in re- cent months. They flew above and around Hurricane Hector that headed to Hawaii. The Hurricane Hunters in La Paz. Hurricane Hunters Visit La Paz

Did you wonder exactly how the infor- tual landfall of the storm. Twining and Waddington and their tant for women to step up and try and accomplish what they mation that you see on the internet is crew predicted Florence’s arrival within 2 miles. need to do to do this kind of work…” Added Twining. gathered? The crew drop dozens of sen- sors into the storm. They gather and col- Pilots Wadington and Twining I asked Kristie if these big storms scared her. She responded It was a beautiful moment; being aboard a Hurricane Hunter By Susan Fogel late the feedback and then send it to the that they rely on their training and protocols in place and their and speaking with it’s female pilot. National Hurricane Center (NHC) And they were the crew that flew sever- plane. Do you like to watch weather disasters on al 8-hour stints in and above Hurricane Susan Fogel is a retired real estate agent. She spends her days writing, creat- ing beautiful garments, and collecting shells. TV? I do. I do not like the human suffer- Here is a picture of what the sensors send Florence, the monster storm that devas- She said that there is always that moment of excitement when ing. I feel the desperation and fear and back and the NHC must turn into infor- tated the Carolinas. There were times the air gets rough and they buckle in. Then her training kicks in. pain of those that have survived a tsu- mation that you and I can comprehend. during that flight when there was little nami or hurricane or earthquake. I send to no visibility and they had to rely on When the two pilots set off on their first flight together their money to aid agencies. But all that aside, instruments to guide them through the director asked them to pose for pictures. Waddington says that weather disasters are exciting. storm. Part of the job of the Hurricane she was puzzled. She asked why and was told that this was the Hunters is to predict the track and even- first time in NOASS’s 60-year history that the Hurricane Hunter The power of our weather systems is planes were piloted by two women. majestic and frightening. There is also something stirring and enlivening about Waddington says bout this: “… We’d love more than anything the coming storm. for this not to be a news story because it’s become so regular...”

Then there are the Hurricane Hunters, “…Just because it’s not a traditional lifestyle or career for a those almost crazy pilots and crew that woman, it’s certainly something that we’re good at. It’s impor- fly directly into the eye of hurricanes. I mean you have to be crazy to do that, right? I guess I am crazy. I would love to be on one of those flights. Buckled in with my defrocked St Christopher’s med- al and some fresh, organic basil tucked in my bra!

Last April, the NOAA Hurricane Hunter It is surprising how small the plane is and crew came on a goodwill tour to La Paz inside it is stuffed full of all kinds of elec- with their slick and sleek Gulfstream tronic equipment. Not luxurious at all. called “Gonzo”. The US Air Force brought their monster Hurricane Hunter But a welcome surprise was that the pilot as well. Being the press and good friend of this plane was Ms. Kristie Twining. of hurricane specialist, Dr. Luis Farfan, I She is one of twowoman pilots among was able to tour the planes and meet the 16 men that fly Hurricane Hunters. She crews. loves her job. She knows that what she Ms. Fogel aboard Gonzo discussing Hurricane Hunting. The Gulfstream, Gonzo

The Baja Citizen 14 November 2018 November 2018 15 The Baja Citizen Paying Tax on Income Home Staging in Baja Sur From Mexican Property Heather: Those are a few great reasons to consider home stag- ing. But what would you say to sellers who are still reluctant to By Heather Borquez stage their homes. on rental income from their condo- minium? If the tax authorities have not I recently had the pleasure of working with a Canadian couple Dacy: There are a few other important benefits to professional By Linda Neil discovered the illegal rental income and as they searched for a new home in Baja Sur. During our tour home staging. notified the landlords, back interest and of La Paz, Dacy Koltai offered some interesting perspectives on THE SAGA OF BILL AND SARAH! penalties may be waived. It is important, the local market of La Paz, Los Cabos and Todos Santos. She First, your house will sell faster! This is important because the however, to begin declaring and paying questioned why so few of the homes on the market had consid- longer a home sits on the market, the further below list price it Bill and his wife Sarah rent out their con- prior to discovery. ered staging their home for sale. I was intrigued by her ideas as drops. Homes that sell after 4 weeks sell for approximately 6% dominium in San Jose del Cabo for 5-6 an interior designer and the examples of how staging (the art of less than ones that sell within the first 4 weeks. months out of the year on a weekly or And Phil…another NON-RESIDENT home presentation) increases the value of your home. monthly basis to tourists. Though they with property in Mexico. Consider the cost of staging will always be less than your first report their rental income and expenses I had a chance to interview her after our first meeting. price reduction. on their US tax return, they have never Phil owns a home in Cabo San Lucas. paid any taxes on that rental income to He leases it to a timeshare salesperson Heather: First off, could you please explain what ¨home­ stag- Second, most home sellers can’t view their home objectively the Mexican tax authorities. Their neigh- on a yearly basis. The renter pays the ing¨ is? and often have their own emotional attachments. If you can’t bors have told them not to worry, since monthly rent directly to Phil’s US bank see your home objectively, you can’t package it effectively. You no one ever pays taxes on vacation rental account and no money is paid in Mexico. Dacy: Sure! Home staging is the art of merchandising your need to get your home into its most advantageous condition for income in Mexico and probably do not home for sale. It is simply taking a home and presenting it in showing. have to. Does Phil have to pay taxes on that in- the best possible light. As if your home were a stage where a come in Mexico? Absolutely! Phil has buyer might imagine playing out their lives. But, more specifi- Third, your beautiful listing photos will standout amongst the Is this actually true? No! Definitely an obligation to pay taxes on any income cally, a good home stager will prepare your home for sale by competition. Over 90% of buyers search for homes online be- not! Bill and his wife must pay taxes generated on property located in Mexico. highlighting its’ strengths, reducing clutter, adding interest and fore deciding to view in person. Pictures have been cited as the on their income, which is generated in developing a consistent theme that will appeal to the greatest most important determining factor in scheduling a viewing. Mexico! What are the taxes and when are they number of buyers. due? Phil must pay the ISR tax, a type of And finally, you can relax! When you stage your home, you If Bill and Sarah are NON-RESI- income tax, in the amount of 25% of the Heather: That’s an important point. Increasing the number of have done absolutely everything possible to affect a quick sale DENTS of Mexico: gross rents and, if the unit is furnished, a potential buyers. of your most valuable asset and for top dollar. And you can get 16% Value Added Tax (IVA). a lot of your packing done too! What kind of taxes should they be pay- Dacy: It certainly is one of the most important aspects of sell- ing and how much? They must pay What are the consequences of failing ing your home. Getting buyers in the door and excited about Heather: Well thanks for the great ideas, Dacy. How can the ISR tax, a type of income tax, in the to report the rental income in Mexico? your space it critical to getting offers. Of course, home buyers someone get started? amount of 25% of the gross rents and, if Much the same as Bill and his wife in the are looking for the right home, in the right location, within the the unit is furnished, a 16% Value Added example above, Phil will be liable for not right budget, but what sellers may not fully appreciate is how Dacy: Just a conversation and an initial consultation. After Tax (IVA). being enrolled as a taxpayer, which can visual people are and how much buyers purchase on emotion. It that specific path is taken, a mutual agreement can be reached cost him between 2,740 to 8,230 pesos. happens all the time. When the buyer becomes emotionally at- regarding any given project. Readers can check out my website An important point - The ISR TAX they The penalty for not making declarations tached to the “feeling” a home expresses, weaknesses are more www.dacyinteriodesign.com and easily contact me with any pay can become a tax credit in the US, as required range from 1,100 pesos to easily over looked. On the flip side, a buyer can discount a questions or to book an appointment. so double taxation is avoided. The 16% 13,720 pesos per month in addition to home within the first few seconds of walking in, if it doesn’t IVA tax is generally paid by the tenant interest for not paying on time and as re- present well. Heather Borquez is a resident of La Paz and a realtor with Dia- and is simply declared by the landlord. quired is 1.13% per month. The amount mante Associates. She can be contacted by email at heather@ of the penalty may depend upon whether Heather: So, home staging increases the number of interested diamanteassociates.com or by telephone at 612 157 1984. What are the penalties, interest, etc. or not this is a first violation for Phil. buyers, and creates a space people are more likely to fall in love they might incur? The penalty for not with, but what about the returns? What can a seller expect if being enrolled as a taxpayer is 2,740 to Should he go back and pay in those they invest in a professional home stager? 8,230 pesos. The penalty for not making taxes from past years when he failed to declarations as required range from 1,100 pay the taxes? If the Mexico tax au- Dacy: Many home sellers are mistakenly hesitant about spend- pesos to 13,720 pesos per month in addi- thorities have not notified Phil he is in ing money on home staging services. The truth is, the average tion to interest for not paying on time and violation of the tax code, he probably will staging investment is generally much less than 1% of the homes as required is 1.13% per month. not need to file back taxes. The important asking price. This relatively small investment can easily in- point is to begin and to be consistent in crease the selling price of a well staged home by 8-10%. Are there any other possible legal the future. consequences for failing to pay taxes Continues on page 32

The Baja Citizen 16 November 2018 November 2018 17 The Baja Citizen

The Baja Citizen 20 November 2018 November 2018 21 The Baja Citizen Ramblings: Stem Cell Hope

cises: doing more harm than good. Right knee: not much bet- ter. However, the prognosis was hopeful. Stem cells injected in By Judy Ristity both knees would (most likely) help. I was assured umbilical stem cells therapy injected into knees has an 85% success rate. Hope. It’s such a positive word. A belief that things will get And the procedure is simple and has virtually no risks. Painless better. Of course, hope also implies that the present needs im- sounded great and 85% success was even better. provement. Donors are chosen carefully and examined frequently during Alex and I carried Hope with us as we drove to Cabo in May. their pregnancy to insure they are fit candidates. The stem cells She was light, almost featherweight until we faced two, very are harvested from the umbilical cord of healthy newborns. tall flights of stairs. Alex felt Her slipping as we approached the Cells go through a rigorously controlled procedure in Guadala- second landing where a metal gate barred the entrance of the jara and flown to Cabo in a sterile ice-packed vials. The doctor clinic which was located up the last set of steps. meets the plane to insure the cells are handled properly.

He growled, “If this place doesn’t look right, we’re leaving.” As I understood it, once young, healthy stem cells are injected, Meanwhile, in the other room Alex handed over a thick, foil- Hope? She’s flexible. She adjusts. Recently, She’s been whis- Was it a premonition? they activate the body’s own stem cells. Chronic inflammation wrapped packet of pesos, the equivalent of almost five thousand pering, “Hey, Judy, stem cells didn’t work, but I’m sure that a is reduced, and new cartridge is created which must be treated dollars. knee replacement will be the answer. After all, you have many I spotted a doorbell, pushed it, and we were quickly buzzed in. gently until it hardens. After three months the donor cells die friends who have new knees and they walk for miles now. And I toddler-stepped up the last set of stairs, my left knee groaning but my own cells would continue to do their work. The procedure was virtually pain-free. I went home with in- they dance. Sure, it will be tough for a while, but we’re tough. with each baby step. structions: rest for a few days, no walking on sand or hills, no Together you and I can do it. Trust me.” I told both the doctor and the gentleman who was responsible Motrin-type medication and I was given three-month supply of Hope leapt when we saw the upscale, ultramodern reception for all but the medical side of clinic, “I write articles for The vitamins. I followed every instruction and to insure success, I Updates: The orthopedic surgeon suggested a full knee replace- area. Everything was going to be okay. Baja Citizen and would love to publish a piece about your clinic didn’t see the second floor of my house for ten days. I NEEDED ment was the only option because I’d exhausted all other treat- and my experience”. Both seemed enthusiastic. this to work. ments methods. The doctor looked at my recent x-rays and shook his head. Dread, Hope’s evil twin, sucker-punched my tummy. Left In the past, knee replacement was the only option given to me by On day three, my left knee became painfully swollen, but the Also, I contacted the stem cell clinic a week ago and they’d like knee: bone-on-bone; circulation: bad based on leg veins; exer- three doctors in the States and one in La Paz, so I was thrilled at internet claimed acute inflammation (which is different than to see me to discuss possibilities. the prospect of avoiding invasive surgery and the long, painful chronic) was common and would resolve itself within a week, recuperation period. so I didn’t worry. Judy Ristity finds humor in the ordinary, then looks again and discov- ers the poignant. The night before the procedure Alex and I talked for hours. During my follow-up appointment the doctor appeared con- We reviewed my options. I said, “Even if the stem cells don’t cerned that I hadn’t called him about the inflammation. He in- give me 85%, it might hold off knee replacement surgery for a jected ozone into my knee to reduce the swelling. “Don’t forget few years. Remember the doc said they’ve had great success on I need some time to interview you for my article, Doctor.” I took knees – almost 90%.” out my recording device, but he said he had other appointments waiting. On my way out of the office I asked the other principle I had contacted four former patients and they gave the doctor of the clinic to compose a paragraph detailing their history and and his team glowing recommendations. goals. He agreed. Although I asked repeatedly, I have received no further information for this article. We agreed we’d do anything to avoid the risk of a deep knee in- fection that can occur after knee replacement. “Alex, too many As I type this piece, four months post-stem cell therapy, I feel “simple” procedures have gone wrong for me lately. I’m terri- no improvement. None. I’m left with only questions: was I a fied of, what they call, the slight chance of a deep infection after poor candidate, did my body reject the new cells, or were the knee replacement surgery and the horror of removing the proth- cells not handled properly? I have no answers and am left with esis and replacing it with some type of block until the infection my vivid imagination and the empty bottles of 90 days-worth of is gone and another prothesis installed”. I shuddered. very expensive vitamins.

The morning of the therapy, when I looked at the young doc- I have an appointment with a fourth orthopedic surgeon in Los tor’s face, I relaxed. He had an independent doctor take an ultra- Angeles on October 4th. I will not tell him I had stem-cell thera- sound of my knees. She spoke to my doctor in rapid-fire Span- py. I will give him my old (pre-stem cell) x-rays and ask him to ish. I didn’t like the look on her face. Was he going cancel the compare them with the ones he takes. What will he see? Are my procedure? No. knees better, worse, or the same?

The Baja Citizen 22 November 2018 November 2018 23 The Baja Citizen Non-Profit Spotlight: FANLAP , (Fundacion Ayuda los Ninos- de La Paz)

Dogs went by the wayside, she hooked up with a few of the girls With Judy Peterson here and started volunteering her time both and in Canada over the summers while we were there. As for me, I help her out from Here’s a story written by Brian; we couldn’t hope for a better time to time because she is committed to dogs. Ewa also has a volunteer. In addition to sponsoring a student, he works with volunteer job with PADS (Pacific Assistance Dog Society) in the cooks in the kitchen on Tuesdays and Thursdays...both for British Columbia where she is involved in continual training breakfast and lunch. and taking care of these service dogs while they are prepared Brian and Judy with the lunchroom ladies. and trained to go out and help people. On a last note, I had the opportunity to speak to my “com- This is his story, in his own words: pañeras” in the comedor on Tuesday before I left for the sum- I had heard about FANLAP and over the years, we brought mer. I wanted to tell them how I felt about being there and Brian’s Story clothing and books to the Marina for the auction. I had also helping out, and I wasn’t going to leave until I told them how I heard about the FANLAP golf tournament and started to play very much appreciated what they do. Their job is tiresome and My family and I first came to La Paz in 2001/02 when we ob- in that. While sponsoring a student, I decided that I would like time-consuming. Their dedication to help out their neighbour- tained a timeshare here for two weeks in October and Novem- to help out FANLAP if I could with my time. That’s when I hood, while at the same time manage their own lives, families ber. We were living in Mexico City at the time and my kids had contacted Judy Peterson, who invited me to come along for a and homes, is truly a remarkable feat. I called them all heroes a two-week vacation from school each year so we decided to couple of Saturdays and teach English. Although interesting and said thank you. buy a timeshare in La Paz for that time period. That’s the short and I loved the smiling faces and eager participation, I knew story. We kept the timeshare until late 2007 when we bought that after being a police officer in Canada for 40 years, I am not I also told them, I would be back to help out in November (May- a house. Even though my wife, Ewa, and I were still work- a teacher, and should probably leave the teaching to my sister be they won’t want me, after all the teasing I do about them ing and the kids in school, we all spent time here whenever we and my daughter Stefanie, who ARE teachers and know what talking all the time!) could. Because we worked in other parts of Latin America over they are doing. the years, my kids Stefanie and Tomas, became fluent in Span- First, I see my job/volunteer work there as not only helping out ish and loved the culture. That’s where they get their love for When I was told about the kitchen downstairs and that they the kids, but helping out the ladies as well. If I can come in early Mexico and the language. served meals each week, I knew that was for me. Instead of so some of them does not have to come early, that’s great. They taking mechanics and other courses in high school, I opted for can probably use the rest. Second, if I can cook, clean, prepare Ewa was helping out Baja Dogs before it actually became Baja cooking. Since that time I have taken several classes/courses and wash/dry dishes, then I can take away a bit of the workload Dogs with monthly donations of food. When the original Baja and still love to cook in the home for my family and friends. and give them a bit of a break also.

So two years ago, off to the comedor (lunchroom) I went. Since So Judy, Thank you for the opportunity to help out. It is truly a that time and when we are here in La Paz, I try to spend two great experience. days a week (Tuesday and Thursday) helping to prepare and cook food. And yes, cleaning and doing dishes also, which is Anyway that’s our story. all part of the job. I have to say that as tiring as it can be, I love seeing all the smiling face of the kids, along with the constant Brian chattering and laughing in the kitchen while we are working away. If you are interested in sponsoring a student or in volunteering in some way, please contact me at [email protected] or As Judy knows from my daughter Stefanie’s visit to the English Veronica at [email protected]. Also, some of the cooks have classes at the FANLAP building, she is a great teacher and great done this work since the opening of our dining room in 2003. with kids, no matter what language. She is always willing to When asked why they work so tirelessly, one of them said, “Be- help out. She is trying to work with her group to get some in- cause I know what it was like to go hungry as a child.” itiatives happening between FANLAP and the Langley British Columbia School District. Whether she can get things going is yet to be determined but you can rest assured she will give it her In 1986, Judy Peterson and her late husband, Pete, set sail from San best try. She loves Mexico/Latin America and considers it her Francisco to travel the world. But during a “brief” stop in La Paz, home, as it was for many years. Our kids, although working in they bought a house, sold the boat and started helping with a breakfast their respective careers, Stefanie a Teacher and Tomas a Fire- program in Colonia Marquez de Leon. Fast-forward 30 plus years and Judy is very much active in FANLAP and the community of La Paz. fighter, both spend time in La Paz when they can.

The Baja Citizen 24 November 2018 November 2018 25 The Baja Citizen Municipality of La Paz Property Tax Discounts on Now

TBC This temporary discount will run until vicios Catastrales offices on the second the end of the November 2018. If you floor of the Municipality of La Paz build- Do you want to get an early jump on the pay your 2019 property taxes before No- ing. This number can be found on your New Year and pay your 2019 property vember 30th, 2018, in one payment, you notary papers of the properties you have taxes? will receive a 30% discount on the total in La Paz. amount plus an additional 5%. The Mu- The City of La Paz has announced its nicipality of La Paz offices are located on For the month of December 2018, a 30% temporary tax discount program for the Blvd. Luis Donaldo Colosio and the cor- discount on the total amount will be ap- remaining months of 2018. ner of de los Deportistas. Offices hours plied to your property tax bill if you pay are from 8:00 am in one payment. Please note that there is until 4:00 pm, also a 50% discount on all fines and late Monday to Friday. charges. Both of these discounts will be On Saturdays, you honored until December 31st, 2018. can pay your bill from 9:00 am until Also, you can head to the City of La Paz 1:00 pm. webpage www.lapaz.gob.mx to make your payment on-line. Payments on-line Have your clave help you avoid the sometimes long line- catastra or title ups that can be found at the end of the number handy to month. On-line payments can be done help you with the safely from your own home computer. process at Ser-

The Baja Citizen 26 November 2018 November 2018 27 The Baja Citizen The Baja Citizen 28 November 2018 November 2018 29 The Baja Citizen - The right balance between intensity of activity and stillness/quietat work and home

Conscientious leaders, enlightened peo- ple are thoughtful – weighing the pros and cons – looking at tradeoffs and cau- tiously, sometimes after trial and error, finding that place where balance rules and one thrives. Managing balance at work or at home, is both an art and a science and finding one’s balance is a solid bridge to finding harmony .But the mysterious part about balance, is that each individual needs to find their ownunique formula or place where all Paz. . Generally early morning is the best time for beginners, things “work” and things are in equilibrium. when there is no wind. My friend gave me some tips when I was trying SUP for the first A Lesson about Balance: What I quickly learned on SUP was that the key to balance is to time, but it was only through experience and some experimenta- find that special place where things are in equilibrium. When it tion, that I found the spot where I could stand comfortably and A Stand-Up Paddle Boarding Lesson just feels right. When things seem to be aligned. In the business calmly to appreciate the birds, the bay, and thesea lifeof the bay world, they call this “the zone”. Sometimes it takes a little trial of La Paz. The Lesson of Dr. Seuss, as referenced in the opening, and error, but when you find that sweet spotof balance whether at rings true. Yet, The Sports and Fitness Industry Association released find- home, work or in the bay of La Paz, calm reigns, time flies, and All life is a great balancing act. ings that showed in the past three years, participation in standup one’s busy mind quiets. And yes, I found that magic spot with paddling has increased by nearly 120 percent. I figured they SUP and soon paddled out to meet the pelicans. All photos are courtesy of Harker Board Company in La Paz. By Mary Anne Harmer couldn’t all be wrong. But the real lesson from SUP is broader as we think about our Mary Anne brings passion and energy towards improving the physical, A recent Forbes Magazine article, “Five Simple Steps for Creat- lives, where we are often confronted with challenges that keep emotional and spiritual health of ALL individuals, families and com- munities across the spectrum of economics and cultures. She is the co- ing Balance in your life”, assertsthat well-balanced life isn’t just us from balance: author of the book, 25 Building Blocks to Create a Conscientious Orga- crucial for your health, happiness, and well being but also essen- - The right balance around working extra hours at the job, or do- nization and the recently released book Putting Soul Into Business: How tial for boosting productivity, managing stress, and unleashing ing too much for others the Benefit Corporation is Transforming American Business. She lives your true potential. - The right balance between analytics and creativity when ap- part-time in La Paz. proaching a problem (left brain/right brain) Most people would agree with this premise, but balance is often - The right balance in motivating, coaching, or teaching others difficult to achieve. Yet, we can learn a few things about it with between positive feedback and thoughtful critique a simple lesson in Stand-Up Paddle boarding, which anyone can - The right balance between delegating tasks and just doing them try while visiting or staying in La Paz, Baja California Sur. yourself

But for me, and maybe others, the whole idea of Stand-up Paddle Boarding (SUP) is a little intimidating.In fact,research in psy- chology has told us that it is common for people to find excuses So, one day in La Paz I ran out of excuses. It was affordable, not to try something new. A few of my excuses included: a) the and it was conveniently located several blocks from where I was water is too cold, b) it is hard on one’s knees, c) it’s not for those staying. Harkers, on the La Paz Malecon , rents SUP and gives over 50, and d) it’s only for coordinated, athletic people. Any rea- a simple orientation. http://www.harkerboardco.com/Harker_ son so I wouldn’t be put to the test around my balance. Like Board_Co/Welcome_to_Harker_Board_Co.html And boards are many, it is hard for people to step out of their comfort zone. often available at Balandras Beach, not far from downtown La

The Baja Citizen 30 November 2018 November 2018 31 The Baja Citizen What is Buen Fin? November 16th to the 19th

TBC

November and December are crazy months here in La Paz. Christmas shop- ping seems to be starting earlier and ear- lier (have you seen the box stores full of Christmas decorations already?) each year and while out running errands the past few days, I noticed people are al- said to be available at participating mer- ready filling up their shopping carts with chants in 200 cities across Mexico. holiday goodies. Officials hope Buen Fin will boost do- Speaking of goodies, you will definitely mestic consumption for the holiday sea- notice an uptick in shoppers enjoying son and are using the marketing scheme the Buen Fin weekend, as it has become to kick off Christmas shopping and the one of the craziest retail weekends in the December shopping binge. country, and La Paz is no exception. In La Paz, several businesses will take The Mexican federal government, along part in the Buen Fin festivities. Signs will with the private sector, has come up with soon be up in their storefronts in hopes the initiative called “Buen Fin” (Good of luring shoppers inside. Box stores Weekend), similar to Black Friday in the including Home Depot, Sears, Liver- US in 2011. pool and Office Max all offer discounts on merchandise including furniture, big This year, in 2018, the Buen Fin will take screen TVs and computers. Smaller re- place over the weekend of November 16th tailers will also promote stiff discounts All About Guavas to the 19th. Discounts of up to 60% are on selected merchandise. Enjoy the sales! Continues from page 11 sugar, long and slowly, in a big kettle while stirring constan- tly. The mixture is gradually boiled down until it is very, very Paying Tax on Income From Mexican Property must be filed in addition to monthly dec- thick. In large quantities, guava paste may be cooked over a big Continues from page 16 larations. outdoor fire, but more often it may be smelled bubbling on the Since Phil is a nonresident and does kitchen hornillo, which is a primitive counter-top stove made of not have a factura number, how can he II. RESIDENTS in MEXICO can ob- adobe and fired with hardwood. pay taxes? Phil must appoint a Mexican tain their taxpayer identification num- company or an individual to be respon- ber, electronic signatures and file taxes Instead of the guayabate being sealed in Mason jars, as are our sible for the retention and the filing of monthly declaring all income and provid- jams and jellies, the contents are cooked long enough to pro- these taxes. His official representative ing receipts for certain allowable deduc- duce a stiff paste. This paste is allowed to harden in molds lined will issue the correct invoice or factura tions. Tax on a sliding scale is assessed with cloth, then is turned out when cool. These blocks of guava as required. on the profit. An annual declaration must paste will last a year or more when wrapped tightly and stored be filed in addition to monthly declara- somewhere dry. THE ABOVE IS FOR NON-RESI- tions. DENTS. IF A FOREIGNER IS A Like mango paste (mangate), it is often packaged in a cornhusk RESIDENT OF MEXICO, OR A NO DOUBLE TAXATION: Mexico has tied nearly at each end with palm strands. In pioneer times, one MEXICAN CITIZEN, TAX TREAT- tax treaties with 32 nations. Taxes paid of these little packages was the equivalent of a granola bar for MENT IS DIFFERENT: in Mexico can be taken as credits in tax- the trail. Up in the sierra, they still slice it and serve it on a payer’s native country. piece of the salty white ranch cheese called queso blanco. You I. RESIDENTS in MEXICO can ob- can sometimes buy this cheese at the smaller markets here in tain their taxpayer identification num- As a consultant, Linda Neil has been serving the La Paz. ber, electronic signatures and file taxes real estate needs of home owners and investors in Mexico for more than 35 years. Linda is an Ac- monthly using a blind deduction of 35% credited Buyer’s Representative (ABR) as desig- This is an adapted piece from The Todos Santos Cookbook by of income and paying tax on the remain- nated by the National Association of Realtors® & Lee Moore. Available at Allende Books, 518 Independencia be- der. No receipts are required for this Founding Member and past president, AMPI-Los tween Serdan and Prieto, downtown La Paz. taxpayer status. An annual declaration Cabos. International Realtor of the Year, 2012.

The Baja Citizen 32 November 2018 November 2018 33 The Baja Citizen He was a political activist and feministdedicated to the cause of women’s reproductive rights. Injustice of any kind caused him deep pain and caused him to take action whether being in a demonstra- tion or calling or writing elected officials.

For more than 15 years Ira was the English/Science editor at CIB- NOR. And he was the only staff English editor employed by the Mexican government. After his retirement at age 80, in 2015, Ira wrote and published a manual for science writers. It is a guide to getting published in international science journals. Ira donated it to CONACYT, the Mexican science and technology administration. CONACYT distributed it to all of their members.

This was Ira’s gift of gratitude for a second career that he loved. And a gift to the furthering of international scientific research.

Just before he died, the director of the World AquaCulture Society asked for permission to add their logo to Ira’s manual and to dis- tribute it internationally. This was done posthumously.

Ira died on July 27 at the IMSS hospital in La Paz. He is survived by his wife Susan, his son Avram and his daughters, Melissa Bartell and Cynthia McCullough.

In case we are wrong, and there is an afterlife, then Ira is talking science and sharing concerns about the attacks on science with Carl Sagan. And he is teaching Albert Einstein math shortcuts.

Ira, my best friend, my teacher, my husband of 36 years, thank you.

Ira Fogel, born on the South Side of Chicago, spent his young years riding the buses to various museums, especially the Field Museum. Later in life, he led his students on “African Safaris” at the Califor- nia Academy of Science in San Francisco. There was no museum, no matter how small or esoteric that he could pass up.

A born teacher, Ira, was inspired by the youth and enthusiasm of his students. His mission was to instill a love of science and math and learning in general to any young people.

Ira taught at Southern Michigan University, Stanislaus State Uni- versity in Turlock, California, and was a “freeway flyer” within the junior college system of Santa Clara County, California.

The Baja Citizen 34 November 2018