Spring 2007 • Vol. 7, Issue 1

August Finds ACS in “Sustainability” is Theme Marshall Webb Marshall

The Breeder’s Barn at — scene of ACS’ Opening Night.

urlington, Vermont will play host to an estimated where 50-60 vendors will offer attendees an assortment 1,000 cheesmakers, retailers, distributors and of Vermont’s finest cheeses as well as other agricultural Bcheese enthusiasts as the American Cheese products from the Green Mountain state including maple, Society’s Annual Conference is held this year from beef, horticulture and chocolate — all showcased in a August 1 – 5 at the Sheraton Hotel and Convention traditional, open air Farmers’ Market venue. Center. In this issue of the Vermont Cheese Council This “Green Event” — where only biodegradable newsletter, you’ll find ways to make the most of your paper products will be used — will include live music, a visit to Vermont and its heralded cheesemakers, multi-media presentation of Vermont’s working landscape before, during and after ACS. Officially kicking off the and guest appearances by notables including (we hope) conference is the opening reception, appropriately named Vermont Governor Jim Douglas. Lead sponsors for the Celebrating Vermont’s Bounty, to be held Thursday event include the Vermont Cheese Council, the Vermont August 2 from 6:30 to 9:00 P.M. at Shelburne Farms. Agency of Agriculture and the State of Vermont. For a Shuttle busses from the Sheraton will transfer conference complete overview of the entire conference, visit the ACS folks to Shelburne Farm’s majestic Breeder’s Barn web site www.cheesesociety.org. continued on page 6 www.vtcheese.com President’s Message The Things We Do For Love

t is April 12th as I sit to write this. Often by this business plan in those early days, as by the love and time of year, we are spreading manure, fixing inspiration that I felt from people like Allison. I sense Ifences, making a steady supply of cheese and that this is true for many of us. Our better judgment responding to countless other demands on our lives. would have told us to pursue other vocations but our Today, things are relatively quiet. It has snowed love carried us on. about eight inches and it continues to come down at Many of us have become seasoned enough now to a steady pace. I look from my office window up to my shake our heads in wonder as we listen to younger folks new cow barn built last fall. The scene could easily be inspired by what we do. We cast knowing glances back December. A good day to reflect on where we’ve been and forth amongst us, knowing that our words will not and where we’re going guide them, they must learn from their own experiences. I have had the great privilege during the past We know all too well the relentless chore schedule, the two and a half years to serve as the President of a irregularities of the seasons, concerns of marketing and small renegade group of cheese makers known as the the pressures of tough business decisions. Yet, if we stop Vermont Cheese Council. Now numbering about 38 for a moment and reflect back, we can recapture that producers, this group had very humble beginnings naive, unbridled enthusiasm that propelled us on. That 10 years ago with a small handful of visionaries. sense that our wildest dreams are possible and that with Among that group was someone familiar to many of hard work and true love, we can endure! you and currently the President of The American As we sample an exceptional batch of cheese made Cheese Society, Allison Hooper. I first heard of Allison from our land, our cows, our milk and share it with our through an article in Vermont Life Magazine. The friends, we remember that these are all the thing we do article described a remarkable young woman and her for love! simple beginnings with the Vermont Butter & Cheese I look forward to seeing you all in August if not Company. Of course, the article made it sound so sooner! easy. It was partly this story which inspired me to Take care, embark on my own cheese making adventures at — Jon Wright, Taylor Farm Taylor Farm. I was not guided, so much by a grand

VCC President Jon Wright and daughter Leah enjoy an early spring picnic.

 Seminar on Proper Care and Handling of Cheese

By Christopher Coutant Wainhouse, Caring for Cheese any type of store. Marketing Director, Rubiner’s Cheese Mongers Many voiced the opinion that both Provisions International Ltd. and Grocers is one of the most retailers and restaurants needed to beautiful retail cheese stores in embrace the limited availability and n early December, over 130 New New England. Matthew Rubiner, the seasonality of local farmstead cheese. England cheesemakers, retailers, featured morning speaker shared Better to offer a small quantity of Iand chefs met at Provisions his marketing ideas and cheese well-cared-for seasonal cheese than International in White River handling practices, with practical try to carry all types of cheese all Junction, Vermont for a daylong advice about display and sampling year long. In the afternoon panel workshop that they sponsored Matthew says sampled cheese always discussion, Sam Hayward of Portland, jointly with the Vermont Cheese sells very well, more than covering Maine’s Fore Street Restaurant talked Council. Provisions, a fine foods the amount given away. He contends passionately about his love of local, distributor, sell a great deal of cheese that sampling is the most important artisanal food, especially cheese. and promotes Vermont cheese in marketing tool available to cheese Through diligent communication particular. After years of discussion retailers. If a cheese is on its way to with customers, by the restaurant with the makers of the cheese and being over-ripe or dry, it is sampled staff and in their printed menu, Fore the customers who buy it, a meeting out and usually disappears in a day Street has established a strong and of the two to begin a dialogue seemed or two instead of becoming a loss. popular cheese board. By enthusi- desirable. Three issues were clear The care and handling of cheese astically embracing the local and priorities; cost, consistency, and care done at Rubiner’s Cheesemongers seasonal, a wide ranging and eclectic of cheese. is labor intensive. All cheese is cut- cheese plate can be developed that Provisions has listened to cheese- to-order. Matthew wraps, unwraps, changes throughout the year. makers frustrated by what they wipes and coddles each piece of perceived was mishandling of their cheese at least once a day. Each and Pricing of Cheese product by retailers: their beloved every cheese is examined by hand “There is a big difference cheese, badly wrapped, under and eye when it is delivered and then between expensive cheese and marketed, neglected. Retailers dealt with according to its condition. overpriced cheese,” said Matthew complained of product inconsistency, Cheese that looks like it is drying out Rubiner. Retailers should talk with soaring pricing, insufficient labeling, is wrapped in damp cloth. Cheese customers about the time, money, and lack of information about the that is getting too ripe is left out in and effort necessary to turn out a cheese they put on their beloved the air to dry. If a cheese develops an wheel of artisan cheese. Vermont shelves. But how much did one unwanted mold it is brushed off or cheesemaker Willow Smart of group really communicate with washed off with diluted vinegar. Willow Hill Farm talked about the the other? What did the retailer or Cheesemakers love the care that frustration of having to justify the chef know about the making of the their cheese receives at Rubiners. cost of her award winning Willow cheese, about its journey from animal Other retailers, especially those Hill Sheep Cheese. Does the retailer to store, about the costs involved in larger coops where staffing and know that the average yield of milk in transforming milk into cheese, space are major factors, react with for sheep is 2 to 5 pounds of milk about the conditions necessary dismay to the thought of the labor per day? Goats produce 10 to 20 to keep the cheese at its peak? and training involved. Most regional pounds per day. Cows produce an How much does the average small retailers have a cash and carry average of 60 pounds per day. This Vermont cheesemaker know about set up or only cut-to-order a small discrepancy can hugely affect the the realities and limitations of the number of special cheeses. But the cost of cheese. Cheese makers and retail marketplace or the restaurant use of sampling and the development other panel members encouraged kitchen? of clear and informative signs are retailers and chefs to visit the farms relatively labor free and could benefit continued on next page

 Seminar on Care and Handling of Cheese New Member continued from page 3 that produce the cheese they sell. Maplebrook Farm The visual impact of seeing how Deriving Success from Old World Inspiration much physical work is involved in making cheese and the benefits of personal contact cannot be over ew VCC member Maplebrook is now Maplebrook Farm based in emphasized. When the retailer Farm has experienced near Bennington, Vermont. Overseeing or chef can talk about the farms, Nmeteoric success by artisan a staff of 16 in 2006, Johann and animals, and individuals involved in cheese standards. It was just four Michael’s undertaking produced the making of cheese, that cheese years ago when Johann Englert, a 304,000 pounds of handmade, may not then seem overpriced. Mateo retired teacher from Boston, tasted hand wrapped Mountain Mozzarella Kehler of Jasper Hill Farm asked the hand-made mozzarella made Cheese – 10 to 12 balls at a time. The how many consumers, or retailers by Michael Scheps, the son of the cheese, devoid of any additives and for that matter, think about the fact owner of Al Ducci’s Italian Pantry in made with 100% BGH-free milk from that cheese makers as a group have Manchester, and a third generation Vermont cows, is finished in a light almost no health care protection or cheesemaker in his own right. sea salt bath; a few batches are lightly workman’s compensation? Johann describes the encounter as a smoked each week over cherry-wood “40-year flashback.” chips. Demand for the cheese which Consistency of Cheese The texture and taste of Michaels’ is not stocked, but made fresh to Tyler Hawes of Larkin Cold cheese brought back welcome order, has grown fast, requiring the Storage brought up the issue of memories of the hand-made business to expand into a second communication between cheese mozzarella she and her Venetian production facility in Hardwick, makers and their customers mother procured from small shops Vermont. Also expanded is their regarding consistency. A cheese in Italy while Johann was a college product line which now includes that has arrived in a certain state student. Ever the entrepreneur, Hand-Dipped Ricotta and Cheddar of ripeness may appear in a new Johann set out to see if there Cheese Curd Snacks in addition batch looking completely different. was a market for this delicious to their Mountain Mozzarella. The cheesemaker has a responsi- product in Boston where she lived Maplebrook Farm Cheeses can now bility to communicate the reason at the time. Armed with 10 balls be found in select locations up and for these changes to the customer. of Mozzarella and a conviction down the east coast, including many Perhaps it rained all week or a spell that others would respond, Johann Whole Foods Markets. of extremely hot weather affected headed east. The response was For more information on retail milk quality. Or perhaps the maker overwhelmingly positive. From those locations, visit their web site: has run out of a more aged version first 10, was born the business that www.mountainmozzarella.com. of their cheese and is substituting a younger. They need to make a telephone call or enclose an information sheet that explains the reasons for the difference. Retailers need to educate their customers concerning the qualities of seasonal locally made cheese. After one store put stickers on a particular cheese that said, ‘mold does not affect the quality of this cheese’, sales rose perceptibly. Retailers and chefs can feel confident about a cheese, even if its qualities vary from time to time, if they know the cheesemaker will provide them with information they can then convey to Maplebrook Farm’s Mountain Mozzarella the consumer.

 Awards and Accolades Here and Abroad

U.S. Cheese Second Award competition. Vermont’s sole gold went Don La Rose to Vermont Butter & Cheese’s fresh, Championship Vermont Butter & Cheese Company soft goat’s milk cheese, Vermont Websterville, VT Chevre. Vermont Butter & Cheese also he nation’s oldest and Vermont chevre captured a silver. Cabot Creamery largest cheese and butter walked away with two silver awards in competition, the 2007 United Semi-soft Goat’s Milk Cheeses the vintage cheddar category. T Best of Class States Championship Cheese Contest, hosted by the Wisconsin Allison Hooper Vermont Butter & Cheese Company Soft Goats’ Milk Cheese Plain: Cheesemakers Association, was held Fresh in March. Vermont Cheesemakers Websterville, VT Bonne bouche Gold who went home winners included Vermont Chèvre Cabot Creamery, Franklin Foods and Retail Packaging Vermont Butter & Cheese Company Vermont Butter & Cheese Company. Second Award Cabot and Vermont Butter & Cheese Adeline Folley Silver both went home with a Best of Class Vermont Butter & Cheese Company Vermont Creamy Goat Cheese ribbon. Overall results as follows: Websterville, VT Vermont Butter & Cheese Company Bonne Bouche Cheddar, ‘Medium’ Vintage Cheddar made in a creamery before 10/31/05 Best of Class World Cheese Awards Ken Hall Silver Cabot Creamery Cooperative lso held in March, The Cabot, VT Cabot Old School Cheddar, 5 yrs. World Cheese Awards gave Vermont cheddar cheese, medium Cabot Creamery Cooperative out awards in 60 categories A ilver Reduced Fat Cheese recognizing what they consider to S & Lowfat Cheese be “the best cheeses of their kind Cabot Vintage Choice Cheddar Cabot Creamery Cooperative Second Award in the world” at their London-based Fred Hart Cabot Creamery Cooperative Cabot, VT Vermont jalapeno reduced fat cheddar Vermont’s Highest Milk Quality Awards Awards were handed out at the Vermont Farm Show in January to Third Award those Vermont’s farms with the demonstrated highest quality milk. All Team Franklin Foods of Vermont’s 1,140 dairy farms strive to produce high quality milk. The Franklin Foods production of high quality milk begins with sound animal husbandry and Enosburg Falls, VT the cleanliness of the cow and continues through the milking process Strawberries & cream yogurt & cream cheese spread including the cleanliness and maintenance of the milking and milk storage equipment. To maintain the production of high quality milk, Soft Goat’s Milk Cheeses attention to detail is a must with many farms monitoring milk quality Best of Class on a daily basis. The production of quality milk takes exceptional Adeline Folley management and is a 24 hour per day, 7 days a week for 365 day effort. Vermont Butter & Cheese Company Two Farmstead Cheesemakers, and VCC members, were among those Websterville, VT recognized with Certificates of Nomination. They are: Blythdale Farm in Vermont fresh crottin Corinth and Jasper Hill in Greensboro. Jasper Hill was also recognized as third runner up for Highest Milk Quality Award & Lowest Standard Plate Count.

 Meet Our Cheesemakers: Taste Our Cheese Before, During and After ACS

Pre-Conference Tours • Crawford Family Farm, Whiting Two, organized pre-conference • Blue Ledge Farm, Leicester tours are being offered this year • Dancing Cow Cheese, Bridport for an additional fee. Tours will • Twig Farm, West Cornwall take place from 8 am – 2 pm on • Orb Weaver Farm, New Haven Wednesday, August 1; boxed lunches • Shelburne Farms, Shelburne as well as transportation is provided. Refer to the Vermont Cheese Trail Coming from Canada: Map included in this issue. Tour #1 If you’re driving down from is the Creamery Tour with stops at Canada, consider the following stops Vermont Butter & Cheese Company off Route 89: in Websterville and the Cabot • Lake’s End Cheese, Alburg Cooperative Creamery in Cabot. Tour • Green Mountain Blue Cheese, #2 is the Farmstead Cheese Tour with Highgate Center stops at Woodstock Water Buffalo in • Willow Hill Farm, Milton S. Woodstock and Neighborly Farms in Randolph. Refer to the Cheese Optional but Trail Map included in this issue for Recommended: relative travel distances. August 3: Friday evening’s Spirit of Tours on Your Own Ethan Allen Dinner Cruise from ACS • Vermont Butter & Cheese Join with other ACS attendees If you’ve got down time in your Company, Websterville for the ultimate view of Burlington’s conference schedule and want to • Cabot Creamery, Cabot (or outlets waterfront. Enjoy the breathtaking make a visit to a reasonably close-by in Quechee and Waterbury) views of the Green Mountains and cheesemaker, we suggest Willow Hill the Adirondack Mountains from Farm in Milton or Shelburne Farms, Coming from New York City area: the Spirit of Ethan Allen as you site of the opening night reception, After entering Vermont on Route cruise beautiful Lake Champlain. in Shelburne. Again, refer to the map 91, your stop-over options include: In addition to a memorable dining for locations. • Peaked Mountain Farm, experience with regional specialties Townshend including pears and dungeness crabs Touring as You Travel • Grafton Village Cheese Company all the way from Oregon, the evening For those who plan to drive to • Taylor Farm, Londonderry offers beer, wine and a sumptuous ACS, there are numerous potential • Woodcock Farm, Weston assortment of, what else – cheese? cheesemaking stops along the way. • Crowley Cheese, Healdville For details on hours of operations, • Frog City Cheese at the Calvin After ACS: consult the map enclosed in the issue Coolidge Homestead, Plymouth and, for best results, call ahead. Notch Cheese Sale: Sunday August 5, 10 am. Coming from Boston: Coming from Albany: Don’t miss out on the chance Once you cross into Vermont from The Route 7 corridor from to get some of the best and most New Hampshire as you travel up Rt Bennington to Burlington offers exclusive cheeses in the country at 89, options for easy stops include: multiple stops along the way: rock bottom prices. The sale will be • Thistle Hill Farm, North Pomfret • Consider Bardwell Farm, West held at the Conference site beginning • Neighborly Farms, Randolph Pawlett at 10 am on Sunday.

 Vermont Fresh Network Forum: Nabhan, PhD, renowned author, Attendees are also invited to Sunday, August 5th, 5 pm lecturer and conservation participate in afternoon seminars For those who can arrange to scientist. on related topics conducted by stay in Vermont for the whole day, • Delicious Walk-Around Dinner local and national food authorities, plan to attend the Annual Vermont featuring fresh, local, seasonal chefs and growers. For information Fresh Network Forum, held at the ingredients by 20 of the best chefs or to procure tickets, email info@ spectacular Shelburne Farms Coach and farmers in Vermont! vermontfresh.net or contact Meghan Barn. The Forum Program includes: • And an ice cream bash brought by Sheridan 802-434-2000. • Inspiring keynote speaker Gary Strafford Organic Creamery.

Cheese Books

New Cheese Atlas Covers the US Other Vermont Cheese Books Also eff Roberts has been a life-long America” at Cheese 2001 and 2003 Available at ACS “foodie.” Growing up outside of and the US presence at Salone del J New York City, Jeff recalls Gusto (Turin) 2002 and 2004. He The Vermont Cheese Book the central role that good, fresh is an organizer of Slow Food USA’s by Ellen Ecker Ogden is an foods played in American Raw Milk exploration of the Vermont his home. After Cheese Presidium. landscape and the cheeses stints in the Navy, As co-founder that put Vermont on the global at an arboretum, and principal epicurean map. Divided into as associate dean consultant to the county, each chapter includes at the University Vermont Institute of Pennsylvania for Artisan Cheese detailed maps and history of Veterinary School, at the University of the farms for cheese lovers to and with the Vermont Jeff has visit and savor the terrior of Vermont Land Trust, produced a compre- the cheese produced by the Roberts decided to hensive, 450 page 35 VCC members. Available turn his interest in tomes entitled The in bookstores throughout food into a career. Atlas of American New England or visit www. He recalls, in 1995, Artisan Cheese. vermontcheesebook.com. Ogden, the first time he This fully illustrated the new VCC Coordinator, can tasted cheese guide to contem- be reached at 866-261-8595 made by Lazy porary artisan Lady Cheesemaker cheeses and cheese- American Farmstead Cheese: Laini Fondiller Author Jeff Roberts holds a makers is designed The Complete Guide to Making at the Montpelier copy of The Atlas of American to familiarize and Selling Artisan Cheeses, by Farmer’s Market . Artisan Cheese. consumers, retailers, It was a “eureka” restaurateurs, and Paul Kindstedt PhD, University moment when Laini food professionals of Vermont (UVM) Professor and announced “I made it.” Since then, with the breadth and quality of Co-director of the Institute for Jeff has done everything possible to American products. Available for Artisan Cheese support and promote the hand-made sale at ACS, the book can also be cheeses of Vermont. He has been purchased by contacting Jon-Mikel Please join these and other active in Slow Food USA as a director Gates, [email protected] at cheese book authors at a book and treasurer of the national board Chelsea Green Publishing, 802-295- signing “corner” in the lobby at and a Northeast Regional Governor. 6300 x111. the ACS conference. He co-chaired “Artisan Cheeses of

 Members and Retail in the News

Green Mountain Blue Cheese’s Retail News From the Farm Cheese Factory on the President Goredawnzola was featured in the Historic Site in Better Homes and Gardens holiday any of Vermont’s cheese- Plymouth Notch, Vermont. Since issue focused on appetizers. The makers have taken to October 2004, cheesemakers are article, “Get Happy; Think Blue” offering cheeses other once again producing granular curd featured recipes using blue cheeses M cheese which was made by the than their own for sale on premises. and a pictorial of eight American blue Among those are: Coolidge family for generation At the cheeses, of which Gordawnzola was retail shop other Vermont cheeses are one. Lakes’ End Cheeses, Alburgh available a space permits, including Joanne James of Lake’s End selections from VCC cheesemaking Mark Fischer of Woodcock Farm Cheeses reports that the planned members: Vermont Butter & Cheese Cheese expansion of a larger retail store Company, Taylor Farm, Grafton graced the plus an Ice Cream stand should Village Cheese Company, Cabot cover of the be completed by early summer Creamery, Shelburne Farm and Brattleboro with a grand opening held in June Blythedale Farm. Food Coop’s 2007. The Champlain Lake shore The factory, where visitors can November front operation will be showcasing watch the cheese making process issue. The an expanded selection of Vermont through several viewing windows, issue hailed cheeses for sale – “as many as we can and the retail store are open every Woodcock fit into the showcase,” says Joanne. day from 9:30-5:00 until the end of Farm as October. Call 802-672-3650, “producer of Cabot Creamery, Cabot, www.frogcitycheese.com the month.” Waterbury and Quechee All three of Cabot’s retail stores Taylor Farm, Londonderry The January 12 edition of Cheese carry cheeses from other Vermont Located at the bend of the road, Reporter featured a full-page story on cheesemakers including Taylor Farm, right on Route 11 in Londonderry, Tarentaise: the award-winning Alpine Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, Taylor Farm has been making hand- style cheese of Thistle Hill Farm. Neighborly Farms, Blyethdale Farms, made Gouda — a creamy, semi-firm Grafton Village Cheese Company, cheese which one of Manhattan’s Blue Ledge Farm was among Vermont Gourmet (Franklin Foods), finest cheese shops calls, “better the cheesemakers mentioned in Crowley Cheese, Maplebrook Farm than Holland’s best” since 1992. The “the people and places section” in and Frog City Cheese. past few years they have also been the Friday, February 23 edition of Locations and hours are: carrying cheeses from other Vermont The Rutland Herald. The item was cheesemakers – in their expanded headlined, “Artists Pursue a Better Cabot Visitors Center retail center. Currently, you can Cheese”. Open daily, 9AM to 5PM find cheeses from the following Guided tour fee is $2, children producers: Grafton Village Cheese, Taylor Farm and its award under 12 free. 800-837-4261. Cabot Creamery, Cobb Hill, Consider winning cheese was the subject of Cabot Annex, Waterbury Bardwell, Crawford Family Farm, the article “Great Gouda!” which Open daily, 9AM to 6PM Crowley Cheese, Dancing Cow, Frog appeared in the February issue of 802-244-6334. City Cheese, Green Mountain Blue Farming Magazine. Cheese, Lazy Lady, Orb Weaver, Cabot Quechee Store Shelburne Farms, Thistle Hill, The Hardwick, Vermont cheese- Open daily, 9:30AM to 5:30PM. Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, making operation of Maplebrook 802-295-1180. West River Creamery, Woodcock Farm and their collaboration with Farm and Woodstock Water Buffalo new VCC member Vermont Milk Frog City Cheese, Plymouth Notch as well as a number of other cheeses Company earned a front page story Frog City Cheese is a family owned from throughout New England. in the Sunday, April 7th edition of and operated cheese-manufacturing Call (802) 824-5690, or visit central Vermont’s Rutland Herald. business located at the Plymouth www.taylorfarmvermont.com

 at Shelburne Farms, is the scalding Shelburne Farms Cheesemaker of the cheese after the first day of Visits England pressing. This is done by dipping the wheel in hot water for a short period of time to help form a rind on the helburne Farms Assistant Bill Clapp, spent time there learning cheese and seal any cracks that may Cheesemaker Brent Seward, the basics of making cheddar in the have developed. At Shelburne Farms, Sbrought back to Vermont a lot early 1980s. Brent’s time in England they will also start pressing their of good information about cheese included spending a day making cloth wrapped wheels for three days making from his recent trip to cheese with four Montgomery cheese instead of one to help develop a solid Somerset County in England. Brent makers, touring other cheddar rind and to press the muslin cloth spent a week at Montgomery Cheese makers in the area including Keens into the cheese for added protection makers, a third generation cheddar and Westcombe, and also getting from cheese mites and other damage maker in Somerset county. This a chance to see a state of the art during the aging process. Brent’s visit marked a continuation of a culture laboratory that supplies educational trip concluded with a day long relationship with Montgomery’s bulk starter cultures to many in London and visiting Neal’s Yard that began when Shelburne’s first small cheddar makers. One of the Dairy to taste some great cheeses cheese makers, Marshall Webb and techniques he learned, and will apply from around the country.

Update: The Farmstead Cheese Courses from Risk Reduction Project The Vermont Institute for Artisan uring February-March, milk, cheese, and the environment Cheeses (VIAC) 2007 approximately 70 of their creameries to verify that cheesemakers from New their plans are working, and keeping all is an ideal time to D visit Vermont. Plan England and New York state attended records of all activities. Peter Dixon, informational seminars about the technical field person for the F ahead to take advantage HACCP planning and verification for project will provide the training. of upcoming cheese classes at small-scale artisanal and farmstead Linda Brushett, the cooperative VIAC, located on the campus of cheesemaking. The turnout development specialist will be the University of Vermont. exceeded expectation, particularly researching the most effective way in the New England region. Based to organize the pilot project partic- October: on surveys, 24 cheesemakers have ipants into an association that can 1: Starter Cultures (1 day) expressed interest in participating in administer the verification system 2-3: Cheese Chemistry (2 days) a pilot project for the next two years. and provide training and testing 4: Basic Sensory Evaluation Starting this May-June, the 24 services for new members. cheesemakers will receive training For more information, contact (1 day) in developing HACCP-type plans for Peter Dixon, PO Box 993, Putney, their cheese operations. Participants VT 05346, 802-387-4041, November 5-7: are committed to their plan [email protected]. Artisan Cheese Practices: development; sampling and testing United States & Canada (3 days)

For more information and to register, contact: Jody Farnham Program Coordinator for VIAC, 255 Carrigan Wing Building/ UVM, 109 Carrigan Drive, Burlington, VT 05405-0044. 802-656-8300 Vermont cheeses, as showcased at Provisions International.

 Small Bites

On Saturday December 9th, and OR. [email protected]; in The Taste of the Nation — a Sunday, December 10th, Sissy Hicks, 503.922.3866 office. 10-year-old event in the campaign chef and owner of the Dorset Inn against hunger. At this years’ Boston hosted a wine and cheese event Taste, there were over 1000 people in her restaurant. In addition to attending and food and wine was showcasing individual cheeses to her The Discover New England 12th served by 70 restaurants and 30 many guests, Sissy created special Annual New England Tourism wineries. Recipients to the fund dishes using Vermont cheeses like Summit was held March March 26- raiser include Share Our Strength fondue, savory cheesecake and 28 at the The Equinox Resort & Spa, and The Boston Food Bank. Panini. VCC participants included Manchester, Vermont. The opening Consider Bardwell Farm, Grafton reception, held at nearby Orvis The Vermont Hospitality Council, Village Cheese, Green Mountain headquarters, was in partnership with held its annual “Taste of Vermont” Blue Cheese, Shelburne Farms, Vermont Fresh Network. Among the Legislative Reception Thursday Taylor Farm, Crawford Family Vermont cheesemakers showcased at evening, April 5th in Montpelier. Farm, Vermont Butter & Cheese the reception were Cabot Creamery, VCC members who shared their Company and Woodcock Farm. Grafton Village Cheese, Shelburne wares included Cabot Creamery, Farms, Jasper Hill Farm, Consider Vermont Butter & Cheese, Taylor Urban Pastures, an online Bardwell Farm, Crawford Family Farm, Shelburne Farms, Lazy Lady database of small production cheese Farm, Blue Ledge Farm, Taylor Farms, Crawford Family Farms, makers and their products is under Farm, Twig Farm, Woodcock Woodstock Water Buffalo, and development. The database will be Farm, Woodstock Water Buffalo, Maplebrook Farms. a free resource and is searchable Orb Weaver, Frog City Cheese, and through in interactive map and an Maplebrook Farm. advanced search feature with the goal being to help consumers learn about new and different products and help grow the small production cheese industry. Vermont cheesemakers Vermont Butter & Cheese who have showed an interest in Company was the showcased participating are Twig Farm, Willow Cheesemaker at Boston’s famed Hill Farm and Thistle Hill Farm. For restaurant L’Espalier for “Cheese more information, contact Mark Tuesdays” on April 3. Two days later, Goldman, UrbanPastures, Portland, on April 5th, VB&C participated

On December 30, (l to r) Wendy Allison Hooper, and Jeff Brewer (Grafton Village Vermont Butter & Cheese) and David Phiney and Cheese Company, Willow Smart (Willow Hill was honored to be Farm) battled the elements to invited to participate ride the gondola up to the high- as a judge at the est restaurant at the summit of Concours de Paris Mount Mansfield. There, Chef Jeff on March 5. Hooper Egan paired wines with several was only the second cheeses from both Willow Hill American (and the and Grafton for a pre-New Year’s first American cheese- celebration. Behind in the photo, maker) to ever officiate you can see the snow bank out- as a judge at this 20- side was waist high! year-old competition.

10 New Cheese Intrepid, and ever-creative Vermont Cheese cheesemaker Laini Fondiller of Lady Lazy Farm has a Council Member new cheese in her retinue she calls “Barick Obama.” Cheesemakers When asked how this name evolved, Laini said, “ I was Blue Ledge Farm looking at it and thinking Blythedale Farm brick...brick ....block...... Bonnieview Farm brrrrick.....baaarick...oh my gosh.....barick obama”. Cabot Creamery The candidate, with a similar name, liked it in New Hampshire. Champlain Valley Creamery Cobb Hill Cheese Consider Bardwell Farm Join the Vermont Cheese Council! Crawford Family Farm We welcome membership and donations to the Vermont Cheese Crowley Cheese Inc. Council. Principal (voting) cheesemaking members will be listed on our Dancing Cow Farm Vermont Cheese Trail map and web site, while Associate Members and Doe’s Leap Friends will receive our semi-annual newsletter and notice of Vermont Franklin Foods cheese events. Frog City Cheese Membership options: Grafton Village Cheese Co ❏ Principal (Voting) Member: Representing a licensed Vermont Green Mountain Blue Cheese cheese making company. Dues based on your gross annual sales. Hope Farm Sheep Cheese Call for details. Jasper Hill Farm ❏ Associate (Non-voting) Member: A company or retail store that Lake’s End Cheeses supplies materials for the manufacture, packaging, distribution or Lazy Lady Farm consumption of cheese made by Vermont cheese companies. Maplebrook Farm $75.00 per calendar year Neighborly Farms ❏ Supporting The Vermont Friends of the Vermont Cheese Council: Orb Weaver Farm Cheese Council’s dedication and advancement of Vermont Cheese: ❏ $25 ❏ $50. ❏ $75. ❏ Other ______Peaked Mountain Farm Shelburne Farms The Vermont Cheese Council is a non-profit 501-C organization. Taylor Farm Name Thistle Hill Farm

Address Three Owls Sheep Dairy Twig Farm City Vermont Butter & Cheese State Zip Company E-Mail Vermont Milk Company

Website Vermont Shepherd West River Creamery Phone Willow Hill Farm Fax Number Woodcock Farm Please make checks payable to: The Vermont Cheese Council Woodstock Water Buffalo Mail: Ellen Ogden, P.O. Box 1007 Manchester Village, VT 05254 Company More info: 866.261.8595 / e-mail: [email protected]

11 Vermont Farm Bureau Non-Profit Org Vermont Cheese Council US Postage 2083 East Main Street Paid Richmond, VT 05477 Permit #101 RICHMOND VT

Calendar of Upcoming Events

May 24, 2007 Vermont Cheese and Chocolate Evening Shelburne Museum, Shelburne Contact Renee Compagna, (802) 985-3346 x3396

June 1-3, 2007 Strolling of the Heifers (see caption below)

June 15-17, 2007 Stowe Festival

July 14, 2007 Killington Festival

July 20-21: September 15 & 16: Vermont Brewer’s Festival Flynn Center, Burlington, Vermont Fine Wine and Food Festival: The Vermont Cheese Council Contact: Willie Docto Contact: Paula Roberts, Flynn Newsletter is published for [email protected] Center: [email protected] food professionals. August 2-5: September 23: With written permission, American Cheese Society Plymouth Cheese and Harvest reprinting is encouraged. Annual Conference and Cheese Festival Competition Plymouth Contact: www.cheesesociety.org Contact: Coolidge State Park, Contact: Bill Jenny 802-672-3773 August 5: The Vermont Vermont Fresh Network October 6 & 7: Cheese Council Shelburne Farms, Shelburne Autumn Harvest Festival Ellen Ogden, Coordinator Contact: Meghan Sheridan Taylor Farm, Londonderry 802-434-2000. Contact: Jon Wright 802-824-5690 c/o Vermont Farm Bureau 2083 East Main Street June 1-3, 2007 Richmond, VT 05477 Victoria Peila, age 8, with Dreamer. Her 866-261-8595 six-year-old sister, Megan, walks Faith down Brattleboro’s Main Street at the www.vtcheese.com Annual Strolling of the Heifers, held this year June 1-3. The parade takes place on June 2. See the VCC booth at the Dairy Fest immediately following. For information, contact Orly Munzing 802-258-9177; [email protected]

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