Cosmetics Packaging INSIGHT SUMMER 2018

How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal

Luxury • Connectivity • Design • Brand protection

CPI002_100_Cover_Final.indd 1 13/07/2018 16:38 AF-SAMPLING INNOVATIONS-ANUNCIOS-210x286mm+3mm-ENGLISH.pdf 1 11/5/18 11:57

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

The perfect experience SELF-SAMPLING® for your consumer Introducing customised technology that dispenses a single fragrance or make up does exist. sample at the touch of a button.

Let’s discover it together. • EASY only one click! • NON-INVASIVE consumer choice.

360º • INNOVATIVE experiential solution.

Passionate about Passionate about Passionate about ideas. full service. impact. We are experts in We offer a 360 degree We seek to engage creating innovative approach from design and the consumer sampling solutions for production, through to the and ensure that fragrance, beauty and promotion and distribution of sampling delivers personal care brands. samples to your consumer. amazing results. www.sampling-innovations.com

Passionate about sampling Scent labels Sachets Vials Miniatures Make up

Samplinginnovations.indd 1 12/07/2018 09:57 From the editor

On the web... Keep up with the latest developments Matthew Rogerson across the packaging industry by visiting Editor www.pci-mag.com Premiumisation with purpose

he cosmetics and beauty markets accolade of being counterfeited. Kanebo are exceptionally focused on sight. last year launched Rose Beauty Whip in an Cosmetics Packaging Insight Phrases such as ‘beauty is in the aerosol that created a flower-like cream when Summer 2018 T eye of the beholder’, ‘mesmerising’, and dispensing – it proved so popular on social EDITORIAL ‘the… look’ all cry out to us from pages, media that it had to be rationed in Japan and Editor Matthew Rogerson Chief sub-editor Thom Atkinson media platforms and other advertising sites. South Korea. The elements shared by these Sub-editors Dale Hogan, Todd Palmer The desirable combination seems to be for diverse success stories is that they have all Contributing writer Ceri Jones Production manager Steve Buchanan the individual to achieve not just the perfect registered and reacted to the second key Group art director Henrik Williams look, but for any occasion. And the strategy ingredient in this aesthetically dominated Designer Martin Faulkner is working. Sales for the industry are growing market: premiumisation. COMMERCIAL at a phenomenal rate, from $412 billion in While the term is vague enough to cover a Client services executive Yasmina Jackson Publication director Jerry Taylor 2017 with a CAGR of 3.6% through to 2022. lot of real estate, it is a crucial factor that gives Subscriptions marketing manager With these types of sums involved – a well-made cosmetic or beauty product the Mariella Salerno Head of sales Richard Jamieson especially in this hyper-connected, social power to develop explosive and sustainable Publisher William Crocker media world – looks will only get you so growth. Even when everyone has access far. Promises of quality have to be delivered to the product, it is still seen as exclusive. – functions that enhance the experience of Premiumisation is often about engaging Cosmetics Packaging Insight is published by using the product and take it from a generic the other senses, such as having a fine mist Compelo, a member of the Audit Bureau of Circulation. daily grind to a sensational experience that to spray at targeted skincare, an applicator John Carpenter House, John Carpenter Street, London, EC4Y 0AN, UK you can share with the world. One that makes that is easy to carry and can be applied with Tel: +44 20 7936 6400 Fax: +44 20 7411 9800 you want to show everyone how good you incredible accuracy, shaving foam that does Email: [email protected] Websites: www.compelo.com look and how well you feel. not need water, or a unique dispensing system www.pci-mag.com Cosmetics and beauty have responded. In that adds a little joy to the overall effect. These ISSN 2516-3442 © 2018 Compelo. Registered in England No. 09901510. China, Estée Lauder has used role models and touches have all had successful debuts this

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be tied in packaging to enhance the experience year, and more are anticipated. reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any for millennial women, who previously avoided There are a range of these and other form or by any means, electronic, photocopying or otherwise, without prior permission of the publisher and copyright owner. the brand, resulting in huge success. Kylie topics covered in this edition of Cosmetics While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the Jenner, who is only 21 in August, has started a Packaging Insight, and though the whole information in this publication, the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors or omissions. cosmetics brand that has been so successful, beauty market is included, it is cosmetics

The products and services advertised are those of individual that not only will she be a dollar billionaire in that are driving the most visible innovations authors and are not necessarily endorsed by or connected with her 20s, but she also acquired the dubious in this most visible of markets. the publisher. The opinions expressed in the articles within this publication are those of individual authors and not necessarily those of the publisher. Cosmetics Packaging INSIGHT SUBSCRIPTIONS SUMMER 2018 Single issue: UK £31 EU €49 US $65 ROW $65 In this issue One year: UK £48 EU €76 US $99 ROW $100 Two year: UK £77 EU €120 US $158 ROW $159 Page 15: Selling the dream: executives from top brands discuss how to package and market the idea of premium. Subscription hotline: +44 845 155 1845 (local rate) Page 22: We look at the role social media has played in the Subscription fax: +44 20 8269 7877 Email: [email protected] rapid success story of Kylie Cosmetics. Cosmetic Packaging Insight & Innovation Subscriptions, Riverbridge House, Ground Floor, South Tower, Anchor Boulevard. Page 37: How Estée Lauder capitalised on the enthusiasm of Crossways, Kent DA2 6SL youth in China by appealing to a younger market.

Printed by Stephens & George Print Group How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Luxury • Connectivity • Design • Brand protection Visit www.pci-mag.com

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 3

CPI002_101_Foreword.indd 3 16/07/2018 12:25 Contents In this issue... Cosmetics Packaging I N S I G H T

SUMMER 2018 Cover story

How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal

Luxury • Connectivity • Design • Brand protection

32 Decorative nishes are more than a super cial touch-up; they help to establish prominence and a core market.

6 Data projection 13 Time to get serious counterfeit cosmetic case. We Using stats from GlobalData, Airopack uncover the dark issue of black Cosmetics Packaging Insight market beauty and speaks with takes an in-depth look at changing 14 Linerless labels that brands that are doing everything market trends in relation to save on materials to protect their consumers. countries and brands, and assess Artimelt where value will be found going 21 Security authentication forward. In future editions, we will 15 On their soapbox for better tracking be taking a closer look at the three Premiumisation is no longer the MicroTag Temed biggest markets – China, Brazil preserve of products with high- and the UK – to learn more about price tags. Matthew Rogerson 22 Jenner capital their key drivers. reaches out to cosmetics Launched in November 2015 by executives from premium brands Kylie Jenner, the eponymous Kylie 9 Head and shoulders above for their thoughts on how they Cosmetics has become one of the The problem of plastic waste and develop, design and define fastest-growing beauty brands in marine litter has been widespread exclusivity in beauty. the world, with a $900-million in public discussion in 2018, and revenue recently announced by many leading companies are 18 Flawed beauty Forbes, Cosmetics Packaging Insight doing their part to resolve the The beauty industry lost over $45 examines how leveraging social problem. We gather understanding billion to counterfeit products in media has created and crafted this from the sustainability and 2017, and the scale of the problem popular cosmetics company. packaging teams at Procter & grows exponentially when trying Gamble, to learn more about how to account for unreported, online 25 Window of luxury innovation can play a part. or intangible losses that follow a Sampling Innovations Europe

4 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_102_Contents.indd 4 16/07/2018 12:27 Contents

Celebrities can leverage fame to endorse and create products. 22 37

Estée Lauder has launched lipstick in conjunction with a Chinese television show, capturing a new and youthful audience for its products.

29 Delivering fast-response 35 Putting personal-care cosmetic solutions brands ahead of the pack RPC Bramlage Division Codimag

31 The future of foils 37 New faces Univacco Estée Lauder has successfully revamped its image in China, from 32 Fashion finishes first a luxury brand for older women into Decorative finishes are more than a youthful brand positioned for a the final touch for packaging younger audience. In doing so, the design, at once offering consumers company recorded a 40% increase in 26 The right stuff more while defining a product’s sales there, compared with a 5% rise Paul Howells, former vice-president marketing design and core in its other markets in Q4 2017. for packaging at Unilever, has an demographic. This article focuses appreciation for good design and on how elaborate and decorative 43 My kind of city an expertise in how to merge the finishes are aiding brands in the ADF&PCD New York 2018 is set technical needs of packaging with quest to gain prominence among to deliver more brands, content the consumer trends and aesthetics considerable competition. and interactivity. required for brand-leading design. He discusses design’s role in ADF has a plethora of free-to-attend interactive packaging’s future. 43 workshops and seminars with industry pioneers.

An expert look at merging technical needs and consumer trends to 26 create a brand-leading design.

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 5

CPI002_102_Contents.indd 5 16/07/2018 12:27 The intelligence > Market analysis Data projection Using stats from GlobalData, Cosmetics Packaging Insight takes an in-depth look at changing market trends in relation to countries and brands, and asses where value will be found going forward. In future editions, we will be taking a closer look at the three biggest markets – China, Brazil and the UK – to learn more about their key drivers.

urrently, across the four key in the beauty or grooming products efficient personal-care solutions. areas – ingredients, claims, they buy, according to recent surveys. Ethical claims, such as ‘sustainably C labels and packaging – there Therefore, it becomes important for sourced’ and ‘vegan’, will remain in are important statuses to consider. brands to provide ingredient lists vogue, as brands try to increase their With ingredients, there is increasing – as well as allergen information – appeal across a diverse user segment. demand for high-performance on labels. With the growing desire for simple cosmetics that not only nourish, With busy consumer lifestyles and clean labelling, the demand but address specific issues, such as and rising usage on the go, for products with clear on-pack hair loss, dull skin or dark spots. This convenient, effective and single-use communication will gain momentum. has led to the emergence of products pack formats have gained popularity For instance, using simple language with active ingredients, vitamins in the personal-care industry. or recognisable ingredients along and minerals. Distaste for artificial Manufacturers of cosmetics and with scientific names will increase ingredients has also prompted growth toiletries are focusing on innovations product appeal and build trust in the use of natural ingredients. such as spray-on and roll-on. through transparency. Finally, manufacturers will continue An increasing number of companies in the to innovate with new formats, designs and value-added packaging features cosmetics and toiletries industry are hopping for cosmetics and toiletries, enhancing on the ‘green’ bandwagon, packaging their user experience. Additionally, the consumer desire to reduce household products in recycled or recyclable materials. waste from packaging will spur manufacturers to focus on sustainable Functional claims, such as UV In the future, ingredients packaging, such as recycled materials defence and anti-ageing, are being brands will increasingly incorporate and paperboard, as well as used to make cosmetics and toiletries superfoods, such as probiotics and biodegradable plastics. appealing to consumers who seek products deemed to be naturally quick and effective results. Producers nourishing to the skin and hair. Grand central stats are also capitalising on free-from Additionally, in order to gain clean In 2017, the global cosmetics and claims to build an ethically and label positioning, the influence of toiletries industry was valued at socially conscious brand image for regional beauty regimen will drive $412 billion, led by Asia-Pacific and consumers who look for personal-care the use of ingredients such as snail the Americas, which accounted for products that share their ideals. In essence, yogurt, argon oil, jojoba, value shares of 37.6 and 32.4%, labelling, as consumers become more black pine and wild rose. Future respectively. An improving global savvy and aware of the numerous product claims will follow the clean economy, driven by strong economic complex ingredients used in label trend and a continued interest growth in the emerging markets and cosmetics and toiletries, they are in organic products. the subsequent rise in disposable increasingly reading product labels. Functional claims, such as ‘pollution income levels, is the major growth As many as 42% of consumers pay protection’ and ‘sweat-defence’, will driver. Skincare was the largest sector, close attention to the ingredients used see a rise, given consumers desire for with a value share of 28.2% in 2017,

6 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 6 13/07/2018 15:09 The intelligence > Market analysis

followed by haircare and make-up, which accounted for value shares of Key sectors by value ($ millions), 2017 versus 2022 16.9 and 11.5%, respectively. 2017 2022 Growth drivers across the globe ■ High participation of women in the global labour force – currently 49.5% – will continue to support growth in the industry, as women become more appearance-conscious. ■ Rising consumer confidence across major global markets, coupled with the high-spending habits of millennials, who specifically spend to improve Colour key guide their appearances, drive sales Skincare (2017) 28.2% (2022) 29.5% for cosmetics and toiletries. Haircare (2017) 16.9% (2022) 16.7% ■ Strong growth in the air travel Make-up (2017) 11.5% (2022) 11.3% industry, with international travel Personal hygiene (2017) 11.5% (2022) 11.1% rising by 6.7%, and the subsequent Fragrances (2017) 9.3% (2022) 8.8% rise in travel retail remained a Oral hygiene (2017) 8.7% (2022) 8.4% major driver for luxury brands, Feminine hygiene (2017) 7.3% (2022) 7.6% such as L’Oréal and Estée Lauder. Others (2017) 6.7% (2022) 6.6%

Latest developments ■ As consumers seek more increasingly pursue cosmetics with ■ An increasing number of information about the products organic labels – often perceived to be cosmetics and personal-care they use, companies must focus safer for consumers and better for the companies are hopping onto the more on ingredient traceability, planet. However, natural oils and ‘green’ bandwagon, packaging which is challenging by virtue of esters do not deliver the same level their products with recycled or the globalisation of supply chains. of performance that consumers have recyclable materials. For instance, come to expect from beauty products P&G developed a recyclable bottle Demand for transparency made with petrochemicals. Therefore, for its Head & Shoulders line, in ingredient labelling identifying natural ingredients that and Dior launched Hydra Life Consumers increasingly demand guarantee safety, efficacy and a in lightweight glass packaging. ‘traceability’ of ingredients and long shelf life on par with synthetic ■ Rising consumer desire for a an emphasis on corporate social ingredients continues to be a premium experience is driving responsibility when it comes to challenge for ‘natural’ formulations manufacturers to use expensive chemical ingredients being used of cosmetics and toiletries. and luxurious ingredients, such in personal-care products, owing as gold, caviar and diamonds in to concerns over their safety. With Consumer desire to look their cosmetic products. retail giants, including Walmart and ‘good from within’ Target, announcing new chemical As consumers begin to grasp the Future inhibitors policies that require suppliers to significance of diet in order to look ■ With governments focusing list ingredients on the product their best, there is a growing demand on reducing the environmental labels as well as on their websites, for ‘ingestible beauty’, which poses impact of cosmetics, manufacturers of cosmetics and a threat to cosmetics and toiletries as manufacturers could be required toiletries will be under pressure to consumers seek to reduce dependence to alter their product formulations. ensure the use of natural ingredients on them. In addition, mounting For instance, the Swedish in order to stay relevant. evidence of a strong link between Government plans to introduce a healthy gut and skin condition is legislations to reduce the use of Challenges of driving interest in consumption of substances such as triclosan and ‘natural’ formulations probiotic-rich foods, such as yogurt, triclocarban in cosmetics, as they As consumers grow conscious of the miso and sauerkraut, deemed to are harmful to the environment. consequences of their choices, they revitalise the skin. This desire to look

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 7

CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 7 13/07/2018 09:17 The intelligence > Market analysis

Top ten high-potential countries from GlobalData’s opportunity index

Value in 2017 CAGR Country Key issues Opportunity score ($ million) 2017–22 (%)

The recent political tensions in the Korean Peninsula South Korea 12,569 4.6 have had an impact on consumer con dence. Moreover, 43.2 tourist arrivals dipped drastically as political tensions escalated

Increasing political uncertainty and challenging China 70,455 8.0 40.7 economic reforms are slowing economic growth

High dependency on oil, in addition to conict Saudi Arabia 4,184 4.2 43.1 with Iran, presents a challenge to the country

High income inequality presents a major social and Colombia 3,329 4.0 economic barrier to growth, despite the government’s 33.0 recent efforts to reduce poverty

A shrinking workforce, given that baby boomers account for approximately one third of the population, coupled with Canada 7,620 2.6 31.4 low birth rates is expected to create a large gap in the workforce

A high corruption rate and high unemployment are Brazil 36,519 3.2 30.5 impacting social and economic development

Consumer con dence remains low, following the Brexit Netherlands 3,858 2.4 29.2 vote, resulting in weak consumption

Decline in capital inows and inward investment is UK 15,711 2.2 28.1 impacting the economic prosperity of the country

Factors such as low oil prices and reduced Russia 10,024 3.6 investment con dence, in addition to rising ination, 33.8 are impacting economic development

The ongoing political unrest presents Poland 4,146 3.2 31.3 a challenging environment for businesses

good from within could influence packaging waste, they increasingly GlobalData has created an the way consumers use cosmetics demand recyclable and reusable aggregated scoring system to rank and toiletries. packaging. Coupled with the rise rewards and risks, and identify the of mandatory regulations on making top opportunity markets. Rewards are Mounting pressure resource conservation and climate quantified by current industry value With organisations such as Cruelty Free protection a priority, manufacturers and forecast growth. Risk quantifies International challenging the cosmetics are under pressure to invest in ‘green’ the potential for market disruption industry to go cruelty free by 2021 and packaging materials. With consumers and uncertainty across a range of urging regulators to set a deadline to not willing to pay more for eco- topics, including political issues, phase out animal testing of cosmetics friendly products, manufacturers corruption, price inflation and worldwide, the industry is under are faced with tighter profit margins urbanisation. The aim of this is to fully pressure to find alternative testing owing to rising production costs consider the attractiveness of the methods. Furthermore, the European from using eco-friendly materials. industry and rank it accordingly. Court of Justice has ruled that cosmetics As the aim of this initial and ongoing tested on animals outside the EU cannot How have the countries in report is to identify the high-potential be sold within the EU. This ruling puts this report been selected countries, the ranking system assigns further pressure on manufacturers to and scored? weighting factors of 70 and 30% to create cruelty-free products, irrespective GlobalData has selected the ten reward and risk analysis, respectively. of the intended market. countries identified in this report The reward and risk factors are from a pool of the top 50 economies assigned further weight based on Prioritising sustainability globally. Using GlobalData’s unique their importance. The aforementioned As consumers turn eco-conscious, ranking system, the top ten GlobalData opportunity score is given the rising awareness of the opportunities for the industry ranked low to high, with higher scores ecological damage caused by were identified. indicating greater reward or less risk.

8 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 8 13/07/2018 09:18 Insight > Sustainability

Head and shoulders above The problem of plastic waste and marine litter has been widespread in public discussion in 2018, and many leading companies are doing their part to resolve the problem. Cosmetics Packaging Insight gathers understanding from the sustainability and packaging teams in Procter & Gamble, to learn more about how innovation can play a part.

recovery and end markets in place. By 2025, all of our major packaging platforms will be recyclable or reusable.” P&G CEO, chairman rocter & Gamble (P&G) has and president David Taylor said, “We pledged to make all of its believe P&G can be a force for good and P packaging recyclable or reusable The company wrote in its report, “In a force for growth, and we are taking a by 2025. This will encompass about 95% the absence of a globally aligned definition more deliberate approach to delighting of packaging materials used and will be of recyclable, our definition goes beyond consumers while enabling responsible possible thanks to new package designs, the technical ability to recycle an item consumption. Consumers expect the a more sustainable material choice and and calls for a recycling system to be brands they trust to deliver superior cooperation with sustainability experts. operational at scale, with viable collection, performance and help solve some of the

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 9

CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 9 13/07/2018 15:08 Insight > Sustainability

most complex challenges facing our world. Our global reach, our understanding of the five billion consumers we serve and our innovation capabilities give us a unique ability to make a positive difference.” Ambition 2030 is an amendment to P&G’s previous sustainability goals, which were to be achieved by 2020. Although the corporation reached some of these goals (for example, reducing energy use at its facilities per unit of production by 22%) it looks like there is still a lot to do. In its previous plan, P&G pledged to cut absolute greenhouse emissions by 30% by 2020. So far, it has only cut them by 16%. It also committed to doubling the use of recycled resin in plastic packaging, though In France, Head & Shoulders released a bottle made from PCR plastics recovered from French beaches. it is yet to achieve two thirds of that target. P&G vice-president of global “Some of the latest examples in recycling plants that are equipped with sustainability Virginie Helias said, “Building beauty that come to mind include our the requisite technologies. Impacted on our progress to date, our 2030 goals newly acquired natural segment brands, supply chain members, such as waste seek to address two of the world’s most Native, a natural deodarent, and manufactures (including sorting plants and pressing environmental challenges: finite Snowberry, a skincare product – both recyclers) will need to retro-fit machinery, resources and growing consumption.” from New Zealand. which requires additional investment.” He continued, “This needs to be done Our 2030 goals seek to address two of the across all EU member states and beyond. Harmonisation addresses the need to reach world’s most pressing environmental challenges: the increased recycling rates necessary finite resources and growing consumption. to achieve circular economies. The goal of the ‘Holy Grail’ project, which is run as – Virginie Helias, P&G a pioneer project within the New Plastics As P&G continues its efforts and moves “In haircare, we launched Herbal Economy, is to bring together the value towards its ambitious goals, there are going Bio:Renew, which is made with a blend of chain and agree on what a value tracer or to be challenges, as Helias acknowledges, antioxidants, aloe and sea kelp, and is free watermark could bring to the industry in “One of the biggest challenges is that this of parabens, dyes and gluten. We launched order to consider the scenarios where this whole call to action relies on collaboration. Rejoice Micellar Water in China, which is technology should be implemented first.” We are in this task force, aptly called a non-silicone shampoo and conditioner. “In addition, eco-design and high- ‘Holy Grail’, which is about using tracer We are launching Pantene Micellar to bring quality or quantity post-consumer technology to better sort plastic, meaning the same benefits of a gentle cleansing recycled materials (PCR) are a big focus the end value is higher because it’s better shampoo and conditioner that removes of all value chain members that need to sorted. These are things we’ve never done impurities, but with no silicones, parabens develop packs for circular design, while before. We need to build the capability there, and dyes.” still meeting the primary objectives of a and we need to have a new mindset of pack for containment. There is a need for it being a shared obligation. It’s not just Sorting the mess an objective assessment of recyclability. competition and innovation; we need to Equally optimistic about the work and Take the RecyClass tool, which was participate in these societal collaboration direction it is taking is Gian de Belder, developed by Plastic Recyclers Europe efforts. We cannot succeed alone, and principal scientist, who added a few and combines all existing EU guidelines neither can individual partners. We can additional remarks on key developments for compliance. There is also a need for only get where we need to go together.” in plastics using tracer or watermark more high-quality recycled materials at She added, “P&G continues to innovate sorting for recycling. the right cost, quantity and quality. P&G’s to develop new products that grow “Sorting technologies have the potential strategy is to double PCR use by 2020, the relevance of our brands with the to create what we refer to as a ‘barcode and we are continuously looking for increasingly environmentally concerned for recycling’,” as he explained. “By baking partners in this field.” shopper. We do this without a performance tracers or watermarks into packaging, the One of the most recent high-visibility trade-off so consumers continue to get the product isn’t altered in the eyes of the launches by P&G in this sector was results they expect from P&G brands. consumer but will add value at sorting and based on the limited edition release from

10 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 10 13/07/2018 09:20 Insight > Sustainability

Carrefour, in France, of Head & Shoulders bottles made from PCR beach plastic. Progressive P&G: some of the most recent Helias said, “The project with Head product launches, from Product Launch Analytics & Shoulders is a very concrete sign to Secret Freshies On-The-Go – Paris Rose, Luxe customers, consumers and governments Lavender, Cool Waterlily, Chill Ocean that we care about plastics and, specifically, New Secret Freshies On-The-Go antiperspirant deodorant has plastics in the ocean. We had not set arrived on the market in the US. Designed specifically for women out to do anything more than provide on the go, the invisible solid antiperspirant and deodorant is uniquely packaged in a small, discreet, portable ball with a twist- an experiment. We had no idea whether off cap for quick and easy swiping application. It can be stored in people would be interested or not. Many most purses, backpacks, gym bags, clutches or desk drawers. design changes, such as amending the Today’s consumers are busier than ever, making a strong market iconic brand colours for the bottle, caused opportunity for products aimed for use on the go. In the case of this deodorant, women can quickly and easily reapply it initial consternation. But it paid off with throughout busy days for a burst of freshness and odour control, top ten sales wherever we piloted the new wherever they might be. P&G distributes Paris Rose, Luxe Lavender, Cool Waterlily and product. There was also amazing work Chill Ocean scent options in 0.5oz plastic blisters within paperboard sleeves for $4.97. from the retailers in helping us get people Hair Food – Kiwi & Exotic Fig in-store, because consumers need a little In Canada, P&G has launched a new Kiwi & Exotic Fig education around what this is about. Also, volume shampoo under the Hair Food label. The formula we allowed people to participate in the is inspired by ‘fresh, energy-packed ingredients known for beach collection – there was a beach clean- their vitalising power’. The shampoo is described as having a fragrance of kiwi and exotic fig to cleanse hair and leave up where you could go and participate. it with luxurious body and shine. It is also free from silicone, We had 1,000 volunteers to collect plastic paraben and mineral oil. The roll-out of this shampoo is from French beaches.” based on the idea that the hair needs nourishment, just as the body does. Thus, natural power foods found in nutrition Getting involved can be beneficial in haircare formulas as well. The prominent ‘free-from’ claims and natural food ingredients in this product This further highlights an increasingly could resonate with Canadian consumers. A 530ml plastic pump bottle retails important part of sustainability, which is for C$9.98. consumer interaction. Frustration is one of the biggest issues for today’s shoppers, Old Spice – Captain, Bearglove, Swagger, Fiji While not uncommon, the ‘invisible spray’ versus who question plastic litter and its ecological ‘invisible solid’ versions of anti-perspirant and impact but might feel they can’t do deodorant are making their way onto store shelves in anything about it. But as Helias says, specific scents to appeal to the just-for-me consumer, sustainability does not need to be daunting fitting into the individualism trend. One example is Old Spice’s 48Hr Anti-Perspirant Deodorant Invisible Spray, or inaccessible, “We tell our customers that which comes in Captain, Bearglove, Swagger and Fiji visually, you are not going to clean the variants. An established brand targeted at men, this range offers the consumer ocean, but just by recycling your Head & invisible, long-lasting protection from sweat and odour. Distributed in the US by P&G, Shoulders bottle, this is how you can help each variety is sold in a 3.8oz aerosol spray can for $5.49. and be part of the circular economy. This is very rewarding for people. We have tangible signs that there is interest and we want to sustainability leader at P&G. “We’ve been “At P&G, we believe actions speak take it to the next level.” fortunate to work with great partners, in louder than words. The increased The project is in partnership with TerraCycle and SUEZ, to make this target use of PCR plastic across our haircare recycling experts TerraCycle and SUEZ. a reality.” portfolio of brands demonstrates our It will be the world’s largest production run Also, P&G announced that, in Europe, continued commitment to driving real of recyclable bottles made with PCR beach by the end of 2018, more than half a billion change,” concluded Helias, “The Head plastic, and the first step in establishing bottles per year will include up to 25% PCR & Shoulders recyclable shampoo bottle a unique supply chain that involves the plastic. This represents more than 90% of all made with beach plastic is a world’s first support of thousands of volunteers and haircare bottles sold in Europe. The project in the haircare category. Increasing the hundreds of NGOs collecting plastic waste will require 2,600t of recycled plastic every use of recycled plastic in the packaging found on beaches. year – the same weight as eight fully loaded of our flagship brands, like Pantene and “We felt that the leading shampoo Boeing 747s. P&G has been using PCR Head & Shoulders, makes it easier for brand in sales should lead in sustainability plastic in packaging for over 25 years, and consumers to choose more sustainable innovation, because when we do this, it the announcement is an important step in products, without any trade-offs. So while encourages the entire industry to do the the company’s journey to meet its 2020 goal we’re proud of what we’ve done and same,” said Lisa Jennings, vice-president of doubling the tonnage of PCR plastic used what we’re doing, we know there is much at Head & Shoulders and global haircare in packaging. more work ahead.”

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 11

CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 11 13/07/2018 09:21 Time to get serious...

The clock is ticking... At Airopack we take the health of our planet seriously. Airopack’s unique Pressure Control Device is a far Our engineers have made a commitment to making superior delivery system to petrol propellants or things better. Together with our global customers pumps. All of the content is used resulting in Zero we have developed a Planet Friendly aerosol. An Waste Airopack requires fewer raw materials in aerosol that is driven by pure air. manufacture, consumes less energy in production and transporation. Result: much lower CO2 emission. Airopack contains no propellants, just cream, lotion or Airopack doesn’t contain harmful gases, petroleum spray and pure, clean air. Each transparent Airopack is based propellants. Nothing but 100% pure, clean air. created from transparent plastics only, which in turn makes every Airopack aerosol completely di erent Good things happen when you think Airopack. from any other aerosol system. Good for you and good for the planet.

Want to know more about Airopack? Contact us now: T +31 416 22 40 40, E [email protected], I www.airopack.com Airopack Headquarters: Van Hilststraat 21, 5145 RK Waalwijk, The Netherlands

Airopack.indd 1 12/07/2018 09:58 Company insight Time to get serious Airopack offers an environmentally friendly alternative to the traditional aerosol spray that is powered entirely by air, rather than a gas propellant and chemicals. This can reduce the product’s carbon footprint by 30%, and provides better packaging that is also safe and sustainable.

t’s time to seek a serious, practical alternative to the n There is a broad range of nozzles and packs of varying traditional aerosol – a smarter alternative that’s better volumes available. You can make Airopack your pack I for the planet and the people who populate it. Products for your brand, product and identity. that are currently dispensed by an aerosol or pump spray, n Off the shelf sizes of 35–200ml, ideal for all products, can be dispensed by Airopack. Airopack’s broader business from skin creams to air fresheners, are available. benefits go far beyond simply being better packaging, n Creating your own individual brand look and feel is because of the safety and sustainability. possble. As well as a broad range of standard formulations, Airopack will happily work with People and planet-friendly customers to create custom formulations and solutions. Contents are added to a traditional aerosol can in liquid n The revolutionary worldwide patented Airopack form, such as shaving cream, deodorant or salad oils, technology offers a safe pressurised dispenser that’s which is then sealed. A gas propellant – commonly planet-friendly with no unnecessary waste and, by butane, isobutane or propane – is then added through eliminating chemical propellants, there are no a valve system and pumped into the can at high pressure. inhalation risks. This propels the liquid upward and through the spray nozzle. Although butane and propane have largely replaced It’s surprising what we can do together chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), there are still many chemicals Airopack is a smarter alternative that’s better for the planet and associated with traditional aerosols. the people who populate it. And with this ternary of services, Airopack is the planet-friendly, virtually all-plastic aerosol formulation, packaging and filling, clients are provided with a that’s powered purely by air. The company has managed to one-stop solution for their product: reduce the carbon footprint of each Airopack by 30%, n Airosolutions: Airopack offers a total solution for because there are no harmful gases or other pollutants each of its customers with its formulation and filling inside. Each transparent Airopack is mainly manufactured partner in Europe: Airosolutions. By pooling experience from recyclable plastic (PET). There are no gas propellants or and sharing thoughts, it develops bespoke solutions and chemicals – just an ingeniously designed pressure control services, from trend watching, formulation development, device, the product and pure clean air. You can spray the packaging development, graphic design, pack filling, product 360° at any angle. What could be more natural? packaging and logistics. Customers decide what’s right for them, their brand or their company. But however large Airopack is the planet-friendly, or small the project, you’ll be amazed by what you can virtually all-plastic aerosol that’s achieve together. n Airofiller: allows customers to fill the planet-friendly powered purely by air. The company aerosol at their own chosen location as well. Airofiller creates has managed to reduce the carbon a complete bespoke ‘filling facility’ on-site for their Airopack within just eight weeks. As well as dramatically cutting the footprint of each Airopack by 30%, costs of logistics, they can benefit from their own Airopack because there are no harmful gases packaging and filling unit on-site. It’s a simple one-stop or other pollutants inside. solution. Set and control your own production volumes and launch your products far more efficiently. Think possibilities Airopack works wonderfully with sprays and creams of Together with partners Airosolutions and Airofiller, virtually every style and formulation. From ultra-fine mists Airopack aims to provide a total solution for everyone who to rich and creamy viscosities, there’s a wide range of is searching for a practical, planet-friendly alternative for the nozzles to suit everything from air-sprays to hand creams. traditional aerosol. Unlike a ‘pump spray’, there’s no need to press the nozzle several times before use. Airopack’s pressure control device provides a smooth, Further information Airopack uninterrupted flow, and an end to splutters and ‘stop, start, www.airopack.com stop’, as well as several other benefits:

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 13

CPI002_Airopack.indd 13 13/07/2018 09:37 Company insight Linerless labels that save on materials Hot melt adhesive company artimelt has created a new adhesive product line – artimeltlinerless – that reduces material waste, saves on cost and cuts down on cleaning time for the cutting blade.

he use of linerless labels has steadily increased in recent considerable downtime costs. Atimeltlinerless adhesives are years. The variety of application possibilities are developing checked by manufacturers of such systems and come out on T all the time and the growth potential for these labels is top in terms of performance. massive. Artimelt has 20 years of experience and knows what Linerless is not only used for standard large packs and self- counts in this application field. As a manufacturer of high-grade service scales in retail outlets, but also increasingly for packing hot melt adhesives, the company developed artimeltlinerless as and labelling cosmetic products. Artimeltlinerless is the most a dedicated product line offering a range of solutions in this area. popular adhesive product in the linerless adhesive sector – not to Most of the self-adhesive labels available on the market are mention one of the best. Leading labelling machine manufacturers made from classic self-adhesive laminate. A major disadvantage recommend artimeltlinerless because of the negligible soiling of is the non-recyclable material waste. The perfect solution would, the cutting blade. Interruptions for cleaning are massively reduced therefore, be labels that do not have to be punched and do not and the product’s outstanding workability leaves virtually nothing need a backing. Alongside the many tons of waste that would to be desired. Less waste and more usable material per reel will be avoided, this would also mean a reduction of material costs increase efficiency for the customer. by up to 30%. As the label is not printed and cut until the point of sale when used in this way, special adhesives are required that do not Further information artimelt soil the printheads and cutters. Shutting down the system to www.artimelt.com/linerlesss have it cleaned causes an unnecessary loss of time and thus

artimeltlinerless

Linerless applications for food · beverage · cosmetics · logistics

increasing sustainable and ecological performance

Your key advantages · leader in linerless adhesives · 30% less material costs · no release liner and matrix waste · excellent cutting properties · up to 60% more labels per reel · more than 20 years of experience

«By incorporating artimelt linerless hot melt into our application chain, we were able for more information contact to reduce waste and cleaning downtime signicantly. That pays o.» Wolfgang Aufmuth Customer · Switzerland T +41 41 926 05 00 artimelt.com

Artimelt.indd 3 03/05/2018 15:23 14 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_Artimelt.indd 14 13/07/2018 09:39 Insight > Luxury On their soapbox Premiumisation is no longer the preserve of products with high price tags. Matthew Rogerson reached out to cosmetics executives from premium brands for their thoughts on how they develop, design and define exclusivity in beauty.

race Fodor, founder of innovative cult make-up brand Studio 10, is G on a mission to redefine beauty for women as they age. It’s a position that no other brand in premium make-up has taken up in earnest, creating an opportunity that’s paying dividends for the company. “For me, the company is a voice advocating being truly visible and All companies identify packaging as crucial to brand recognition and loyalty. confident,” she says. “The range movement to challenge the assumptions brushes delivering both volume and is designed specifically for women as they or stereotypes of middle-age, which are separation. Or the Armani To Go Cushion age, at a time when 74% feel that existing misrepresentative of the individual, has Foundation, with its airtight case to protect products do not reflect their needs.” given us a huge competitive advantage. the sensitive formula, and Lancôme’s Coupled with being a brand 100% Genefique Sensitive skincare, which allows Ageless beauty developed by women for women, we immediate delivery in a single pressure- Reaching these consumers via digital will be taking an even more active role in booster. Additionally, in haircare, there’s channels has been at the heart of Studio not only consuming products, but in the Power Mix, from L’Oréal Professionnel’s 10’s success. It allows the company to creation, production and even distribution.” expert line, which enables the hairdresser reach an older demographic who feel that to offer their client a personalised hair retail does not offer them personalised The age of discovery treatment that is blended under their eyes.” products and who lack the confidence to L’Oréal Packaging had a very busy year in As for what to expect in the rest of 2018, approach assistants who might be decades 2017, with more than 600 moulds created Thuvien was very excited by the recent younger than them. Fodor’s approach and 90 patents filed. It was a great year for developments and direction of the is to build strong, personal and direct innovation too, with many eco-designed company – including grouping the design relationships. She continues, “People like innovations, which identified the team within the packaging team to better interacting and buying from other people environment as being a major concern in design and develop consumer-centric more than from faceless brands. Being the strategy of the L’Oréal Group. This is packaging that delights customers and behind the brand, I hope women can all part of the plan, according to Philippe enhances the occasion, citing that more identify, relate and have real conversations Thuvien, packaging and development than 700 projects will be created in with me. To do this requires using all director of L’Oréal Group. product design during 2018. channels and media available, on and offline, “Clearly, packaging innovation is and tailoring all communication as we go. strategic to boosting product performance Delighting in the mundane Digital allows instant feedback – this way, and protecting the formula,” he explains. Philip Tarrant, Coty’s research and I can build an authentic relationship on a “Packaging has a key role in increasing development leader for North America, personal level.” the perceived value of the product and says, “The trend for premiumisation is tied While Studio 10 might be seen as a range providing an additional service to the to innovation, as one of the key aspects that targets over-40s, Fodor has a broader user. Some recent examples of premium, is enhancing the experience and vision: redefining beauty and age. Selling innovative packaging include the Lash functionality of the product to make it more products is only part of this mission, as Paradise mascaras from L’Oréal Paris and indispensable than an alternative. In beauty, she explains, “I’ve found that creating a Mister Big from Lancôme, with their fibre when you speak of innovation there are

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 15

CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 15 13/07/2018 09:22 Insight > Luxury

basically two types: true innovation, valve to a premium-looking, lockable consumer research when we develop creating something entirely new, or spray-through cap. In this case, new packaging and work to find their implantation innovation, taking an existing not only did the redesign change unknown needs.” technology to a broader audience by consumer perception and experience, Price further explained that the real making it less expensive and easier but it actually included a reduction value comes from paying attention to manufacture.” Both can support in plastic, proving that it’s possible to the unknown, and seeking value development of a premium packaging to be innovative, increase the in places consumers would not expect format, but the caveat tends to be cost exclusivity of a product and still – such as using packaging to bring and resources. If money is no object, it reduce material resources.” delight to the daily beauty routine. is easy to conceive a bold new product Another major breakthrough improved Kao’s Evita Beauty Whip Soap, a and release it. But this is rarely the the experience of the product, and Japanese-market launch from Kanebo case; everything costs time and money. also provided a whole-new market of Cosmetics, is a perfect example. From searching patent and intellectual packaging and products that were According to Price, “The packaging property records to ensure the new idea designed to be promoted by users on for the soap delivers the need for a is exactly that, to engineering, designing social media, came from the ground- rich, velvety facial cleansing foam and and developing the product. It can take breaking launch of Kao Corporation’s brings extra delight to the consumer years, depending on the complexity. Kanebo brand. through the aerosol packaging and unique dispensing head, which creates a beautiful rose shape with one easy The more honest you are, the more effective pump. It is more than your normal your communications will be. Transparency is face wash or foam cleanser. It great if you have been telling the truth but not brings the element of 'wow' through packaging innovation.” so good if you’ve been lying. – Mark Constantine, Lush The truth will set you free Sometimes it is surprising who leads the Tarrant confirms, “To me, Laura K Price, senior package results for most admired brands. Apple, premiumisation can be founded in development engineer, research BMW and Nike are a constant when something as simple as changing the and development for Kao USA, says, consumers are surveyed. However, Mark consumer experience. For example, “Kao USA and its parent company, Constantine, co-founder and managing our CoverGirl was designed with the Kao Corporation, put considerable director of Lush, believes thinking ergonomics of the user in mind. It importance on developing innovative differently and rewriting the rules is features a bi-injected, soft-touch cap for packaging daily and strive to be the a wonderful way to eschew the big precision and control, along with edge- creators of continuous innovation. boys and forge a desire line for a new to-edge stamping on the bottle and cap We endeavour to develop products premium brand. to complete the look. Another example is and brands to maximise consumer “As a small brand, you are wasting our Playboy SkinTouch deodorant, which satisfaction by determining the needs money if you try to advertise or match is redesigned from a traditional aerosol of consumers. We always incorporate the bigger players. We’ve tried, and it

In developing a premium-look aerosol for their Playboy range, with a fully lockable cap, Coty also managed to reduce the amount of material required.

16 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 16 13/07/2018 09:23 Insight > Luxury

has been ineffective and expensive. It is wonderful if you have £1 billion to mount your campaign, as you can blanket all markets and communication, but that is a very small circle.” While Lush now generates over £300 million in revenue, across 50 countries, describing the company Estée Lauder's new make-up brush has a wealth of new design technologies that give it an edge. as small is still relative and accurate – L’Oréal is over 100 times its size. has been to one of its shops can attest, global package development for Estée While advertising might be seen as a Lush relishes unconventional display, Lauder, explains the science behind playground for the mega companies, vivid colours and textures that make the magic. Lush has achieved its status in the consumer feel as though they are “The cushion stick package is spite of actively not taking part. How in a market stall or bazaar, rather than designed to apply and blend-in liquid is this achieved? a high-end cosmetics store. However, foundation in simple gestures, whether “You have to deliver on the promise as the brand ethos is to provide fresh, at home or on the go. Due to the unique of your products and ethos, and keep handmade cosmetics, it is a sign of design, the package allows consumers to your message,” says Constantine. “To being attuned to the market that their to apply a full face of make-up or to use most customers, cosmetics are hard to layout is evocative of artisanal grocers. where needed. The turning mechanism differentiate, and most people think of Underscoring all of this, as allows consumers to have better products as very changeable. You have Constantine sees it, is communication control over the amount of product to be distinct, transparent and restore with complete honesty. “The more and coverage as they propel and people’s faith in human nature, and honest you are, the more effective your repel the stick.” To overcome hygiene convince people that companies can communications will be. Transparency concerns that many traditional cushion do the right thing too.” is great if you have been telling the compacts have, Estée Lauder’s product has a removable sponge head that allows the consumer to wash the Being a brand 100% developed by women applicator as needed. for women, we will be taking an even more active Tobin explains, “One of the initial challenges was developing a system role in not only consuming products, but in the that combines two unique forms – creation, production and even distribution. a foundation package and a sponge – Grace Fodor, Studio 10 applicator – into one affordable package. Another challenge was to provide an Strong opinions and beliefs are the truth but not so good if you’ve been acceptable label claim while maintaining key to staying current without a high lying. Companies who use advertising an ergonomic shape for consumers advertising spend, but it does not end to say they are something they are not to apply foundation to the face with there. The company carries a willingness were never in control of the brand in only one hand.” The design required to engage with journalists and media the first place.” a simplified mechanism to allow on any topics they wish – totally at odds It is this school of thought above consumers to hold with one hand but with the industry norm. Constantine all that has allowed Lush to move from also provide a large enough opening explains, “We are the only mid- quirky start-up to premium cosmetics to fill the product on its high-speed sized cosmetics company where the brand and continue to grow in a market production line. Both of these challenges formulator is also the boss, which gives shared with giants. were answered by the final design. the brand its experiential and homemade “Lastly, consumers also want to know feel. Each cosmetics brand has its own Two for one how much of their foundation has been strengths and weaknesses. L’Occitane Another way for a brand to occupy used and how much is left. Thus, we is great at packaging, The Body Shop the premium sector is to enhance the developed a very unique attribute of this does discount marketing very well – experience of the user, by improving package – the body gets smaller as the we all have different styles. At Lush, we products or promising more exclusivity product is used. As the product’s height formulate, work like hell on the quality of than others in the field. No stranger to is lowered during usage, it becomes the ingredients and focus on making the innovation or experiential marketing, more compact and even more finished product as effective as possible. Estée Lauder has recently capitalised convenient for on the go. Another benefit We want to serve our customers.” on the single pack make-up plus pro- of the design is that by turning the body This creates a product that is tool trend with their Double Wear Nude of the package into the base, it achieves fundamentally different. As anyone who Cushion Stick. Tim Tobin, director of near full evacuation of the product.”

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 17

CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 17 13/07/2018 09:23 Insight > Brand protection Flawed beauty According to MarkMonitor’s latest research, the beauty industry lost over $45 billion to counterfeit products in 2017, and the scale of the problem grows exponentially when trying to account for unreported, online or intangible losses that follow a counterfeit cosmetic case. Matthew Rogerson uncovers the dark issue of black market beauty and speaks with brands that are doing everything to protect their consumers.

ounterfeit goods have been around since the dawn of designer brands, C but that doesn’t mean those brands can’t fight back. In 2003, Estée Lauder Companies formed a global security team to crack down on fakes. Comprised of 42 agents and led by the former head of the US DEA’s office in New York, the team scours fake websites, third-party retailers like eBay and Amazon, and flea markets around the world to find counterfeit make- up. They work with local law enforcement to rack up enough evidence to press charges against those putting dangerous fakes on the market. In some cases, justice is served. The Department of Homeland Security (DHS) ramped-up the fight against counterfeit cosmetics with a specific operation dedicated to plastics and cosmetics. This effort was led by the National Intellectual Property Rights Coordination Centre (IPR), which works with 19 federal agencies and four international agencies to stop counterfeiters. A whopping 83% of their work occurs in mainland China and Hong Kong, where counterfeit packaging is largely produced. In 2016, DHS seized over 2.8 million fake Estée Lauder products, but this just scratches the surface – counterfeit cosmetics are on the rise.

It’s a syndicate There are some very big players operating in the counterfeit cosmetics world. In December 2013, for example, nine members of a New York-based syndicate led by Ming Zheng – known as ‘Uncle Mi’ – pleaded guilty to importing counterfeit perfume, handbags and footwear with a combined retail value of

18 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_106_Brand Protection.indd 18 13/07/2018 09:24 Insight > Brand protection

$300 million. But the family’s trafficking was substantial enough to occasionally get intercepted by US authorities. During 2009– 14, US Customs and Border Protection (USCBP) seized 16 packages heading their way, out of roughly 240 total shipments, according to DHS documents. In 2014, complaints over counterfeit merchandise increased by 357%, with commerce authorities receiving 77,800 individual complaints. The year prior, counterfeiting accounted for 2.5% of the world’s trade. Though retailers like eBay and Amazon try their best to remove counterfeit listings, many slip through the cracks. Alibaba, China’s version of Amazon, has over 22,000 listings for lipstick, many of Research suggests that more than 25% of people have at some point purchased counterfeit goods online. which are openly marked as counterfeit and have not been removed. irritations, rashes, burns and swelling, that they believed it was a brand’s It’s not simply the loss of sales that as well as longer-term health problems. responsibility to protect them from concerns major beauty brands. Counterfeits In its most recent research, counterfeiters. This is reinforced by the tarnish a brand’s reputation, because MarkMonitor revealed that more than fact that almost four in every ten consumers many buyers don’t know that what they’re 27% of people had unwittingly purchased that unwittingly bought a fake product buying is a fake. Unfortunately, counterfeit non-genuine consumer goods online. complained directly to the brand. In make-up is almost impossible to detect This included everyday items, with 32% addition, with 80% of consumers relying by look alone. Many times, packaging is accounting for make-up, 25% being on online reviews before making buying replicated perfectly. Make-up giants are skincare, 22% supplements and 16% decisions, ensuring customer satisfaction continuously looking for new ways to concerning medication. Overall, nearly is crucial. thwart counterfeit packaging, which is 30% of online shoppers have purchased Aphrodite, a European police operation, often the only discernible way for the fake make-up, skincare and over-the- caused the seizure of over 20,000 average person to spot a fake. These counter products. Customers can access counterfeit products and the shutdown high-tech methods, such as watermarks, these products through a number of of over 1,000 illegal shops on social media holograms and RFID chips, require a great channels, such as search engines, apps, websites across nine member states, amount of research. In 2017 alone, Big advertisements and online marketplaces, including Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Beauty spent an estimated $41 billion on but 89% of people are most likely to trust Greece, Ireland, Italy, Portugal, Spain and these types of anti-counterfeiting measures. brand websites, and 74% prefer online the UK. The products seized included marketplaces. However, online pharmacies fake sportswear, medicine, cosmetics, Lead astray account for 67% of counterfeit consumer phones, designer clothes, jewellery, The cosmetics and perfumery industry is goods sold online. glasses and watches. one of the market areas most affected by “The threat of counterfeiters is ever- Because of the rampant increase in social counterfeiting and smuggling operations. present, affecting brands and consumers,” media platforms, the internet continues to In 2015, it was estimated that the total says Anil Gupta, chief marketing officer be a major facilitator of intellectual property revenue lost to imitation products across of MarkMonitor. “For brands, it is all crime. “Because of social media platforms, the EU was €4.7 billion, or 7.8% of about the loss of revenue, reputation and it became easier to post and advertise offers total sales, according to a report into customer trust. However, when it comes for goods and content that turn out to be counterfeiting in the beauty industry to non-genuine consumer goods, such counterfeit and pirated,” a spokesperson for by the The European Observatory on as cosmetics, skincare, sun care and Europol said. Infringements of Intellectual Property medicines, the consequences for shoppers Rights. Aside from the economic losses are far greater – affecting their health and Yes we scan created by these goods, imitation well-being. As a result, it is up to brands There are a number of ways companies cosmetics and fragrances have been to ensure they have a solid online brand can protect themselves. Swisse Wellness, found to contain toxic levels of hazardous protection policy in place to deal with the for example, employs a scannable label substances, such as cyanides, arsenic, counterfeit threat and keep their customers to protect and authenticate its growing lead and mercury. In some cases, the safe from harm.” portfolio of products. Growing from a chemicals have been found to cause This sentiment was reflected in the humble warehouse in Australia to become allergic reactions, including skin research, with 34% of respondents stating a leading global wellness brand with a

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 19

CPI002_106_Brand Protection.indd 19 13/07/2018 09:25 Insight > Brand protection

global market presence, there are multiple products and growth launches planned for the coming years. Acquired by H&H Group of Hong Kong for $1.7 billion in late 2015, Swisse Wellness’s product portfolio has more than 200 products, including vitamins, sports nutrition, skincare and functional foods, manufactured in GMP- certified facilities. The company reports that, in China, Swisse Wellness is a top online vitamin brand, with consumers willing to pay a premium for esteemed products that deliver purity and authenticity in a market where poor or counterfeit goods remain common. But as demand, distribution and retail exposure of these products has grown, Unlike counterfeit designer clothes, fake cosmetics products, which come into contact with your eyes, mouth and skin, can be incredibly harmful. the Swisse brand has faced challenges from counterfeits. In response, Swisse adopted approach to our strategy around anti- bringing awareness to the issue. “It’s vital to a series of packaging innovations to protect counterfeiting and have been working on remember that this is not just a MAC issue, the authenticity of its products worldwide. developing our product authentication app but it’s a public health and safety issue. The first brand protection innovation for many years. This has been a large Counterfeit cosmetics sometimes contain was a new-form product package labelling, investment for our brand, and it’s something harmful or even carcinogenic ingredients – first seen in 2016, and is continuing to we wanted to make sure was spot on and perhaps not intentionally designed to harm, roll-out on hundreds of Swisse products easy for our consumers to navigate before but due to the counterfeiters feeling no worldwide –more than 150 to date. In we introduced it to the market.” obligation to protect the consumers.” 2017, the company unveiled, among “Cosmetics counterfeiting is a global “We’re not talking about a knock-off other features, next-generation scannable epidemic,” says Gregg Marrazzo, senior designer bag that you carry around on labels that employ the Swisse product vice-president and deputy general your arm,” says Buglisi-Weiler. “You’re authentication mobile app. The company counsel for Estée Lauder Companies. purchasing products that you put on says the scanning technology allows He leads the company’s intellectual your eyes and lips, which you may ingest.” consumers to easily recognise and verify property group, which focuses on “Even if you buy a counterfeit lipstick authentic Swisse labels by scanning these anti-counterfeiting – a reality for many and come out unscathed, it’s not a icons using their smartphones. The icon in-demand brands, including MAC victimless crime,” says Barchiesi. “In some associated with the app cannot be Cosmetics, part of Estée Lauder’s cases, the proceeds support organised replicated and uses what the company portfolio. A few of its most hotly crime and the funding of terrorist refers to as the most advanced surface counterfeited products are Studio Fix organisations.” If it seems too good to be scan identification technology available. fluid foundation and Ruby Woo lipstick. true, it probably is. “Think of it like a $20 Rolex watch,” says Barchiesi. “At that price, Counterfeit cosmetics sometimes contain it’s fake.” However, she acknowledges that harmful or even carcinogenic ingredients. counterfeiters’ prices aren’t always that disparate, which makes things trickier. – Karen Buglisi-Weiler, MAC To avoid counterfeit goods, one must scan for red flags, including misspelled Managing director Oliver Horn reinforced Marrazzo cites a recent case in which product names and haphazard packaging. the company’s commitment to brand a group of bloggers outed an Australian The beauty blog community can help, as protection and consumer trust as an department store for selling faux MAC they name and shame many bogus items – important responsibility, saying,“Consumer products. The store paid out $1 million from Urban Decay’s Naked Palette’s to trust in our brand is a key priority. Swisse and ran corrective advertising. Benefit’s BadGal lash mascara – calling has seen great success globally through While companies are concerned about out exactly what to look for. “Like many our commitment to producing high-quality fakes because it hurts their image and companies, we are struggling with products, which use premium formulas. But profits, these copies can have much more counterfeited,” says Urban Decay’s legal we know that with premium, in-demand dire consequences for consumers. team. “We have a programme in place with products there are always likely to be “It’s horrifying,” says Karen Buglisi-Weiler, USCBP that intercepts these shipments, individuals wanting to exploit them.” Horn outgoing global brand president at MAC, but it catches only a fraction of the amount continues, “We have had a considered which is one of the few beauty brands eventually shipped into the US.”

20 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_106_Brand Protection.indd 20 13/07/2018 09:25 Company insight Security authentication for better tracking MicroTag Temed offers top-level security and anti-counterfeiting technology that have a variety of brand protection applications and is patented around the globe.

icroTag Temed is a privately as magnetic or electrical fields, dirt, grease held company, a proven and extreme temperatures (-100 to 600°C). M provider of top security Customers can benefit from ‘fingerprint’ authentication and anti-counterfeiting tagging – a unique tagging material technologies for the most demanding for major customers and integrators brand protection applications. The means extra security. There is very high company possesses a high-level R&D authentication reliability with extremely low expertise in solid-state physics, chemistry, false-reading rates. The technology meets materials science and signals processing. six sigma level, or three false readings This served as the basis for MicroTag’s out of a million. Detection is instantaneous, own novel and unique authentication allowing in-motion detection, such as in technology, now patented worldwide. credit cards readers and high-speed bank MicroTag now works with large sorting and testing machines. companies with global distributed product The customer has significant operating lines, ranging from consumer electronics advantages, such as definite yes/no to high fashion apparel. This unique indication; no human judgment, which technology, which was invented and means higher operator performance developed by MicroTag, is especially reliability in adverse conditions; forensic MicroTag Temed’s handheld reader. beneficial for secure track-and-trace class that provides solid evidence in a court applications protecting global supply chains. It is of law; extremely high reading reliability; flexible implementation on capable of solving parallel or grey marketing problems. products; and inherent control of subcontractors against double During the past 17 years, MicroTag technology has production series. successfully protected more than seven billion documents and product units with a cumulative value of more than Different modes $60 billion. These products have all belonged to large There are a variety of tagging application modes; printing through multinational companies with worldwide sales networks offset, flexo, silkscreen, intaglio, thermal transfer and laser printing; and long supply chains. coating on any materials, shapes or surfaces; OR integrated into the paper; integrated into the plastic. The secure track and trace for High technology supply chains includes: MicroTag offers technology for advanced solutions that is highly n anti-counterfeiting secure, covert authentication, Level 3, forensic-class, robust, n anti-parallel marketing reliable, unambiguous and machine-readable. It offers compliance n operating modes that include stand-alone mode for fast Yes/No with international standards. MicroTag is certified to ISO 9001 authentication only (no information) for field inspectors, and 2008 and complies with ISO 12931:2012, the performance criteria combined mode with track and trace. for authentication solutions used to combat counterfeiting of material goods. The company also complies with various health Using the sophisticated digital signal processing of the reader and safety, and environmental standards, including: allows the customer to secure any standard information carrier, n USA CFR TITLE 40 such as barcodes linear or 2D, smart chips, visual numbers and n USA CFR TITLE 21 laser-engraved glass. There is fast deployment, very low cost, using n European EN-71 current track-and-trace information processing infrastructure that n REGULATION (EC) No. 1907/2006 – REACH is easy to apply. Reading information and authentication can be n European WEEE. combined with a reader for barcode and MT.

Strong attributes MicroTag’s technology offers extremely high resistance to fraud Further information MicroTag Temed due to the physical effects used. This is completely new to the www.microtag-temed.com authentication industry. It is insensitive to ambient conditions such

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 21

CPI002_MicroTag.indd 21 13/07/2018 09:42 Insight > Connectivity Jenner capital Launched in November 2015 by Kylie Jenner, the eponymous Kylie Cosmetics has become one of the fastest- growing beauty brands in the world, with a $900-million revenue recently announced by Forbes. Cosmetics Packaging Insight examines how leveraging social media has created and crafted this popular cosmetics company.

n November 2015, Kylie With regard to her Instagram profile, Jenner – famous for her her following has surpassed 110 I appearance on US reality million, which has subsequently TV show Keeping up with the allowed Kylie Cosmetics to capitalise Kardashians – released her first on Kylie Jenner’s vast media presence eponymous lip kit. The collection with an in-built and pre-existing of three matt lip kits sold out in audience of the exact target under a minute. Less than three demographic. Social media marketing years later, Kylie Cosmetics has allows followers to keep up-to-date become a full-service, direct-to- with the latest product launches, consumer beauty brand, with offerings tutorials and news updated by Jenner that include eye shadows, blushes, tools herself, which gives a sense of personal and the aforementioned signature lip kits. engagement with the celebrity. Social media has been undeniably The brand continues to grow and is instrumental in contributing to projected to become one of the fastest- Jenner’s phenomenal brand growing beauty brands globally. In popularity, having been the 18 months since its initial launch, employed as her main and Jenner’s brand generated $420 million sole marketing platform. in retail sales and the company is now Jenner’s social media projected to turn over $1 billion in accounts rank lifetime sales by 2022. among the most popular in Leveraging social media

the world. Looking at Kylie Cosmetics’ marketing Image © Sky Cinema/Shutterstock.com strategies, the brand has successfully managed to execute the product, pricing, packaging and promotionial elements of the lip kit product portfolio. Overall, the main themes driving these four elements revolve around creating a sense of exclusivity and uniqueness. Kylie Jenner at the 2018 Firstly, consumers Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala can solely purchase

22 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_107_Connectivity.indd 22 13/07/2018 09:27 Insight > Connectivity

Kylie Cosmetics products through express their identity in a creative way. All Images © Kylie Jenner/instagram.com/kyliejenner the brand’s official website, as The brand has managed to capture manufacturers and retailers are not ‘selfie culture’, creating an online buzz given rights to sell the products. to encourage consumers to post selfies The promise of high-quality wearing Kylie Cosmetics products, such ingredient formulations, stand out as its lipsticks. This in particular has packaging and first-hand celebrity driven traction among young consumers endorsement lures in consumers – those who tend to photograph seeking products that allow them to themselves and upload the images to stand out while joining customers social media more than older consumers. worldwide in promoting a popular Consumer product engagement is one brand. Creating a sense of uniqueness of the key aspects Kylie Cosmetics has and exclusivity through branding has managed to capture and drive through capitalised on the appeal to today’s the use of social media platforms. The trendy, image driven consumers. brand reinforces the idea of luxury Vast social media followings have and exclusivity through social built brand engagement by generating media branding that Jenner herself product demand through creating is actively involved with. This exclusive, on-trend and easily relatable creates a sense of direct consumer digital content. This has displayed engagement with the celebrity. For an understanding of the targeted example, the product launch strategies audience’s purchasing behaviours that the company is known for include to create a brand loyal direct-to- uploading short previews on Snapchat, consumer product relationship. or posting video promotions on The brand marketing strategy has Instagram and YouTube accounts. This proved so successful because Jenner’s unique way of reaching out to the followers are predominantly targeted demographic has created an young women, aged 18–24, intense whirlwind of hype around new who are social media savvy and products, which is evident in the time hyper-aware of the latest beauty each product has taken to completely products. By understanding the sell out. brand-targeted audience and how to best effectively reach Selfie culture out to them, Kylie Cosmetics has When it comes to purchasing beauty capitalised through creating hype and grooming products, millennial around new product launches on the females tend to be highly influenced by brand and Jenner’s personal social celebrities and social media, as well as media accounts. Given that 44% of video tutorials, reviews or demonstrations global female consumers regularly posted online. Product demonstrations use social media sites to discover new in the form of video make-up tutorials products and brands, followed by 41% posted on the brand’s social media who say they use these sites to follow accounts provide new dimensions of brand news and updates, beauty product engagement. In addition, using brands with a large social media third-party bloggers and influencers presence like that of Jenner’s should has given the brand credibility through benefit from this advantage by reviews provided by popular online directly reaching out to the consumer influencers and celebrities outside in the form of exclusive launches and of Jenner’s esteemed social circles. digital content. Moreover, 35% of With female consumers having become Using social media advertising in a global female consumers use social more appearance conscious in recent measured way – without over-promoting media sites or apps to purchase years, rising from an estimated 75% in a product – is important when creating products, increasing to 43% among 2015 to 82% in 2017, Kylie Cosmetics has an element of inimitability. Kylie 18–24 year olds. Kylie Cosmetics managed to appeal to young consumers Cosmetics has managed use of social showcases a strong understanding of who look for ways to enhance their media in a restrained but effective this, directly appealing to this defined physical appearance, creating looks that manner, creating a sense of mystery consumer group. stand out and allow consumers to through giving consumers sneak

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 23

CPI002_107_Connectivity.indd 23 13/07/2018 09:28 Insight > Connectivity All Images © Kylie Jenner/instagram.com/kyliejenner previews into new, curated products in The aim is to target social media the making. Furthermore, through the savvy consumers who discover, follow use of social media, brands can create a and purchase their beauty products build-up and online publicity prior to the on social media. This could be product’s unveiling. This naturally creates through sending respected beauty a sense of excitement for its target bloggers – or those relevant to the customers. Overall, this personal product field of the product – free samples engagement proves to be appealing to in exchange for glowing reviews Jenner’s online followers and existing to add credibility to what could demographic – those who are buying into otherwise be considered a vanity ‘being Kylie’ – which in turn is driving project of the nouveau riche. brand popularity and product demand. When marketing the products, to grab the attention of the short- Action points span consumers, a sense of all The key to successful social media output being premium, with high- marketing lies in developing products quality ingredients, stand out that create a sense of exclusivity packaging and unique and unusual and offering limited edition products product designs should be promoted. in constrained quantities. In turn, By leveraging celebrity status and companies must create engaging and popularity to develop consumer easy-to-consume social media content engagement and drive direct online that helps generate brand popularity. conversations with target audience,

Looking at Kylie Cosmetics’ marketing strategies, the brand has successfully managed to execute product, pricing, packaging and promotionial elements.

This works so well for Kylie’s the brand will have created a market Cosmetics because of Jenner’s pre- unto itself. In Jenner’s case, using her Last year, we saw visible growth in existing fame and following, but can be connections and allowing her celebrity ‘beauty queen’ packaging, which was mimicked with a lesser fan-base to friends to soft-market the products has designed to be showcased on social capitalise on the audience’s need to proved vital in spreading the appeal and media. Heralded by Kanebo’s ‘Evita photograph and ‘showoff’. scope of the brand, with fantastic results. Whip Soap’, it appears that the industry has entered a world where the physical Where next? packaging of an online brand, backed While celebrity endorsements are the by an online celebrity online, can bread and butter of the beauty world, guarantee to sell a product without the Kylie Cosmetics has opened up new requirement of physical shops. The first opportunities by shining a light on time a customer will likely encounter how far social media platforms can be the brand in person would be upon employed to develop an exceptionally receiving the package at home. strong and fast-growing brand. As This has naturally brought issues aforementioned, with the current regarding quality, colour management, rate of activity, it will be a $1-billion sizing and other such discrepancies company within two years’ trading. By that are avoided when handling a comparison, it took George Clooney physical product before purchase. five years to sell his tequila brand for However, the figurehead’s social a similiar amount, which was then media presence and appearance of shared between him, his investors and transparency with their consumers partners. Given his body of work and means that these problems are on their having been in the public eye for way to resolution with the efficiency nearly 20 years, Kylie Cosmetics’ of more traditional shopping and success with alacrity is incredible. customer service experiences.

24 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_107_Connectivity.indd 24 13/07/2018 09:28 Company insight Window of luxury At a time when the way products are bought is changing rapidly, sampling offers beauty brands a means to create in-store theatre and inspire loyalty. Mark Lockyer, commercial director of Sampling Innovations Europe, explains why the ability to try a product will always remain essential in a competitive market.

he beauty industry has seen a Online, complementary samples revolution in the ways brands provided at the checkout enable T communicate, market and consumers to explore a range they sell, as online shopping and social are already aware of, creating brand media have shifted interactions out of loyalty. Lockyer states, “That’s become physical stores and changed traditional a much bigger area in sampling”, while routes to brand awareness. The habits traditional mass-market sampling via and preferences of consumers are magazines, direct mail or events still changing, too. Having greater access to remains a profitable way to generate information enables informed choices brand awareness. based on research into ingredients; online shopping to cater to increasingly Collaboration and creation time-poor lifestyles; and bloggers, Sampling Innovations Europe works vloggers and influencers to provide a with clients to identify the most suitable new source of expertise and guidance. format throughout the production However, this virtual environment, process. “Full service is a really key makes sampling a vital tool for the part of what we do,” Lockyer says. In beauty industry more than ever. addition to manufacturing and filling “The one thing you can’t do online samples at their factory near Barcelona, is smell, touch or feel,” says Mark the company provides packaging Lockyer, commercial director of specifications and technical design, Sampling Innovations Europe. Beauty and collaborates with creative agencies brands are, therefore, increasingly on the production of final artworks. New Self Sampling technology enables consumers to adopting the practice of adding receive a sample in store at the touch of a button. Sampling Innovations Europe samples to online orders. provides miniatures, travel sets and In addition, the rise of online shopping means the role of a individual retail items, such as face masks, as well as sampling physical store needs to be redefined. “There has to be a whole solutions, including vials, sachets and labels. “Because we have journey, an experience – a reason why you go to the store, speak such a wide range of options, it’s about identifying what we feel is to the staff and interact with the brand,” Lockyer adds. “I think most relevant for our client and guiding them through the journey sampling will be – and should be – absolutely crucial to that.” to deliver the best possible sample,” Lockyer highlights. In addition to the increasing personalisation of beauty, he points Try it and see to environmental issues as a key development in the industry. There Sampling Innovations Europe, first established in the UK in is a great deal of investment currently to improve material choices 1987, and now with additional locations in Spain and France, and recyclability, while it also true that by allowing consumers to offers solutions to brands that are navigating this new retail try before buying, sampling reduces poor purchasing decisions, environment. “We provide a consultative, proactive approach and wastage of a product and its packaging. In the longer term, to offer brands something that’s going to help them stand out Lockyer believes that water will become an increasingly precious in an ultra-competitive market,” Lockyer explains. commodity, and beauty brands may look to reduce the water He highlights the rise of Self Sampling as a significant new content of their products and the size of packaging. They may development. The company’s automated system dispenses even choose to sell dehydrated products that consumers mix with samples on request, providing an easy and intuitive method water at home. Sachets and sample-type products could well be of trying a new product in the often complicated and crowded integral to this and Sampling Innovations Europe will be at the environment of a fine-fragrance hall. “It creates awareness, store forefront of these advances. “Innovation is in our name,” he says. impact and theatre; helps improve the store retail environment; and adds another little reason why people might come into store,” Lockyer says. Sampling Innovations Europe worked with Further information Sampling Innovations Europe fragrance house Puig to place self-sampling systems in Barcelona http://sampling-innovations.com Airport that allow travellers to try new Paco Rabanne scents.

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 25

CPI002_Sampling Innovations Europe.indd 25 13/07/2018 09:45 Insight > Design Theright stuff Having retired in July after nearly 20 years at Unilever, Paul Howells, former vice-president for packaging, has an appreciation for good design and an expertise in how to merge the technical needs of packaging with the consumer trends and aesthetics required for brand-leading design. In the following article, he discusses design’s role in shaping packaging’s future.

nilever’s purpose is to make In an era when humanity is having a brightest minds in the world work with sustainable living commonplace. bigger impact on its environment than at Unilever. Pioneering the next-generation U Every day, it works to create a any other time in history, packaging can of packaging technology and design, it’s better future, with brands and services that play a critical role in helping us manage giving consumers the same (or better) help people feel good, look good and get our resources and live out a sustainable, functionality, efficiency and value for money more out of life. bright future. while reducing environmental impact. Plus, Steve Jobs had a room dedicated to As one of the biggest users of packaging consumers feel good about it – because one thing: opening boxes. In this room, in the world, Unilever knows it has a major they know it’s good for the planet. specialist engineers spent their days role to play in this issue. That’s why it is unpacking hundreds of designs, pursuing aiming to halve the waste associated with Paradigm shift the perfect unboxing experience. The tactile the disposal of its products by 2020. With a Unilever has already managed to cut its quality of the unwrapping moment is major target like that, the first thing you do waste footprint by 29% versus the 2010 undoubtedly important, but as someone is make products smaller, lighter or reduce baseline. But the improvement that brings who was vice-president for research and the levels of waste created when they are has a ceiling. After a while, reducing waste development packaging at Unilever, I’m of made. The challenge is to do this while becomes contingent on thinking in the opinion that the unboxing experience maintaining or improving the value a fundamentally different way. should be about even more. your product delivers. If the industry is to deliver the same Luckily, some of the consumer functionality with a fraction of the packaging, it needs to completely reimagine the paradigm. A task this big cannot be completed alone. That’s why Unilever’s employees work alongside supply partners and academics at universities like Northumbria, Sheffield and MIT to identify and co-develop the transformational, game-changing technologies required. Two of these breakthrough technologies are now recognised innovations in the market. Firstly, MuCell technology, which is used in Dove packaging. This innovation – created in partnership with two of Unilever’s global packaging suppliers, ALPLA and MuCell Extrusion – reduces the density of the bottle and the amount of plastic required. All while ensuring the technology remains 100% recyclable and no difference in the packaging can Dove products now use MuCell technology, which reduces the required amount and density of the plastic. be observed.

26 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_108_Design.indd 26 13/07/2018 09:29 Insight > Design

The second innovation, which you There is a piece of ‘magic’ in the cap: an will have noticed on shop shelves, is inbuilt, invisible magnet always ensures the compressed deodorant cans. Brilliant Chanel logo is aligned to the front of the research and development scientists at bottle. It’s a gorgeous piece of packaging the Global Development Centre in Leeds, and, needless to say, very well engineered. UK, re-engineered the spray system to reduce the flow rate. The new cans A sense of identity are just 75ml, half the size of existing Magic or not, reinforcing a brand’s identity cans, but deliver an identical amount of is fundamental to successful packaging protection and fragrance in the same spray design. When updating the container of an time as the full-sized can. These are just established product, one feature that should two examples, but there are plenty of new not be overlooked is the brand’s heritage. advancements that contribute to the goal Its history should be carried forward, not of zero waste. forgotten. Customers should be able to look Compressed aerosols are a good example at a piece of packaging and understand of a product that has been designed with A magnet in the cap of Bleu de Chanel ensures how it translates to the brand itself. multiple solutions in mind. Over the years, the logo is always facing the front. Additionally, operators ought to take I have come to realise that when selecting to place in their bathroom cabinets. Making influence from the most iconic containers – packaging for a particular cosmetic or sure there is correct feedback across all brands that have enjoyed decades of toiletry, it is not sufficient to consider just senses, and not just sight, can translate success and are instantly recognisable. one factor at a time. The whole process, into brand success. You should be able to pick out a Lynx from conception to finished product, should Automobile designers think about the deodorant from a Dove one, for example. be viewed holistically. By this, I mean that way a car door closes, the feel of a seat and Just like you can look at a BMW and the brand DNA really informs the design. the smell of the car – it’s all been designed instantly know it’s a BMW. It’s about For a brand to be succesful, packaging holistically, and that’s what Unilever tries updating a brand so that, although you’re and design need to work together to attract to emulate with regard to personal-care presenting an innovation, you can still see and seduce customers in different ways. products and their packaging. The feel the product’s history. Packaging, as Steve Jobs realised, enhances of the product when held, and the sound But how do you make the correct the experience, and if done well, opens up it makes when opened and closed, must decisions when designing packaging for a whole galaxy of possibilities. be considered. It’s about making sure a new product on the market? Does this everything fits together effectively. require a different approach? With no Emotional connection To me, the devil is in the details. history to draw upon, packaging designers The idea of incorporating all the senses, Sometimes, the smallest innovations make are free to create a completely new identity rather than simply sight and function, is the biggest difference to a consumer. One from scratch, but they have to get it right. not new, but it has not yet been developed of my personal favourites of good design is It’s even more important to be clear to its full potential in packaging design. Bleu de Chanel, a male fragrance contained about what you want to communicate in A product’s packaging might work and in an elegant square bottle of midnight blue. be sufficiently attractive, but if it falls short regarding other faculties, the item could be considered below par. Of course, the packing must deliver the functional requirements, but it’s our job, as packaging designers and engineers, to look for opportunities to add value to packaging so that people have a deeper, emotionally based interaction with the product. But how passionate can a consumer really get about a cosmetic’s casing? At first, it’s difficult to know what I mean by ‘emotionally based interaction’, but I believe packaging companies could learn a lot from automobile designers. Emotional interaction is a clear game-changer for customers choosing a car that’s right for them. The concept should be no different for consumers choosing which products A brand’s identity should shine through in its packaging.

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 27

CPI002_108_Design.indd 27 13/07/2018 09:30 Insight > Design

terms of brand value for a new product, because that will set the standard or the The last product launch under Howells’ tenure image of the brand for the future. If you get Lux Luminique is a shampoo with argan oil for damaged it wrong at the beginning, you’re not going hair; infused with Damascus rose essence and silicone free. to be doing yourself any favours. The packaging is made of a custom-tooled, injection These days, if you don’t make the best stretch blow-moulded, transparent pink PET bottle with tessellating triangular panels to the sides (five long ones in packaging decisions for a product’s launch, the upper part and three short ones at the bottom). Inside your potential customers will find out soon. is an injection-moulded, dark-pink plastic pump dispenser The surge of blogging and social media closure with twist-up opening to prime for use and large platforms has provided consumers pump actuator with embossed opening instructions to top. There are self-adhesive, printed, clear-film labels to with an easy route for giving instant the front and back of the bottle body, and a circular, feedback about their recent purchases self-adhesive RFID tag under the back label. to a large community. The public can There have been previous examples of decorative immediately register their endorsement or shampoo bottles with a premium-look feel in Japan, such as Gift Scalp and Scalabo, but this is still a rare disapproval of a new product and discuss type of packaging. The actuator can be twisted to its various benefits or shortcomings. Social unlock for use, and if locked, will not leak. media keeps packaging designers on their One of the most outstanding innovations is the eye-catching bottle design with toes, but it also hints at what the public distinctive embossed, decorative plant design, which delivers a premium feel. The multifaceted bottle shape refracts light to create an attractive visual effect, which requires from a product, and which catches the consumer’s eye on the retail shelf. The embossed plant imagery innovations are currently trending. enhances the brand’s ‘natural’ image and evokes association of the plant extracts that In the past, you have been able are key ingredients of this product range. The heavyweight PET bottle, with decorative to get away with a suboptimal design. detail, imparts a high-quality feel for a premium image. The pump-bottle format allows easy dispensing without needing to pick up the bottle. The pack shape is bottom- Now, there’s a significant lobby that heavy, creating a stable pack format. would undermine the brand equity if something didn’t work. While there are pros and cons to this The surge of blogging and social media new world of instant feedback and viral messaging, one of its biggest boons is as platforms has provided consumers with an easy an activist catalyst, where sustainability route for giving instant feedback about their recent campaigns and good work can be expressed instantly and globally, allowing purchases to a large community. even enormous organisations like Unilever the chance to reach customers directly and investment in waste management and bottles are recycled. While 56% of talk to them individually. education of all stakeholders are key people recycle their kitchen items, only While there are elements that are out of areas to a sustainable, successful future. 14% do the same with their bathroom control, and most recently the debate about Unilever continues to work with other bottles. To change these numbers, plastics has played a huge role in this – on businesses and urge governments to Unilever is rallying people to join and offline – there are still many actions implement policies that facilitate the them in rethinking recycling – to that can be taken to improve things. radical shift it is advocating. Only rinse, recycle and reimagine their Selective collection of packaging collective action will unbox a bright bathroom empties. waste, better infrastructure, future. That’s why fundamentally Unilever is committed to transforming different thinking about packaging the experience it give consumers and must extend to inspiring consumers the impact it has on the planet. For to think differently too. In the US, like people who have a passion for doing many places things differently, who think creatively in the world, and who want to use cutting-edge there’s a bias technology to reinvent the industry for in the way the better, there is so much opportunity. Technology is great, but the human mind is the most powerful tool we have. By creating the conditions in which it can thrive, we can create the conditions in which everybody can enjoy a bright future. There is more to do, and much more innovation to encourage. And Companies must work hand in hand with governments to reduce waste. that’s where you come in.

28 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_108_Design.indd 28 13/07/2018 09:30 Company insight Delivering fast-response cosmetic solutions RPC Bramlage Division creates high-quality plastic solutions for numerous markets, including the health and beauty packaging sector. Its convenient, easy-to-use and relevant products are in line with trends and lifestyles, helping to create an enjoyable beauty ritual.

he extensive range of products from RPC Bramlage Another new development in lip-care products is the Division demonstrates the company’s ability to deliver high-performance Jumbo stick. Featuring an airtight T fast-response solutions for the cosmetics sector that construction and precision operating mechanism, the meet luxury and sustainability requirements, and deliver new stick demonstrates the technical skills of the RPC functionality and ease-of-use for the end consumer. Bramlage Marolles site where it is manufactured. The One of its latest innovations is a new lip-care stick that versatile design is suitable for a range of applications, combines convenience and functionality with a stronger including eye and lip make-up, and solid perfumes, while environmental profile than other models currently available. localised European supply reduces lead times for speed-to- The three-piece design is manufactured completely in market launches of new products. polypropylene (PP), thus greatly easing its ability to be recycled. For all products, a wide range of decoration options PP also has a lower carbon footprint than POM, which is often provide the opportunity for effective personalisation to used for these types of products. Overall, the new stick has support brand image and premium positioning. achieved a RecyClass B rating for its environmental profile, whereas most traditional sticks have an E or F rating. The design of the stick mechanism provides precise Further information RPC Bramlage Division operation that gives users quick and accurate control, and www.rpc-bramlage.com reduces the risk of the pomade breaking.

RPC.indd 3 10/05/2018 11:47 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 29

CPI002_RPC Bramlage.indd 29 13/07/2018 09:44 Cold Foils - Metallic Effects for Sheet-fed Offset & Narrow Web applications Sheet-fed Offset CF6.2-series New UV overprintable series with Ultra High Gloss for extremely fine to very large cold foiling designs Narrow Web CF4.6R-A General Cold Foil for fine to large stamping designs with superb overprintability CF4.6S Cold Foil for shrink sleeve applications CF4.6DU Double-sided Gold Cold Foil for brilliant reverse effects

Hot Stamping Foils – for a very large range of different substrates and stamping requirements 777 Suitable for UV varnishes and OPP laminates with extremely fine definition design TS-series Suitable for UV varnishes and OPP laminates with small to medium coverage OF-series Suitable for overprinting with UV inks and UV varnishes U-series (various) Suitable for overprinting conventional inks

Holographic Foils realized with seamless effects as Cold Foil, Hot Stamping Foil or Lamination Film CF5.1Y UV overprintable holographic Sheet-fed Offset Cold Foil CF4.2S UV overprintable holographic Narrow Web Cold Foil TS-/7xx-series Hot Stamping Foils for various surfaces and large range of applications LP4-series UV overprintable PET Lamination Film

Special Effect Foils (SEF) for Cast & Cure applications SEF CnC in a large range of holographic patterns, lens designs and possibility for customizations

UNIVACCO symbolizes UNI for unique formula, VAC for vacuum metallizing and CO for coating, which says clearly its in-house core technologies, the key to its leading position in the industries. UNIVACCO values high quality decoration foils and high-tech optical films production as its top value for the markets thereafter, but also dedicates itself to bring its logo rainbow shine onto daily decorations appreciated joyfully by the world. www.univacco.eu

Univacco Foils Holland BV, Havenweg 1, 5145 NJ Waalwijk, The Netherlands

Univacco.indd 1 12/07/2018 09:59 Company insight The future of foils It takes a lot of experience to create a range of foils that work perfectly every time, especially when trying to keep prices low and operations environmentally friendly. Cosmetics Packaging Insight talks to Miro Ivsan, a sales and product manager of cold foils from Univacco, about what the company can offer and its plans for a major new production facility.

Could you talk a bit about Univacco and where it is based? Miro Ivsan: Our worldwide headquarters – and major production site – is in Taiwan. Our European headquarters is in the Netherlands, while we have daughter companies across the world, including in the US, China, Japan and Malaysia. Back in Europe, we have a professional distribution network that we operate with chosen partners, and state- of-the art slitting facilities, which we operate globally with our partners.

Can you discuss your range of foils and what A new production site is set to be built in Holland by Univacco. Above makes them unique? is a basic rendering of the building design. We manufacture and supply a very large range of foils for many different applications, components and surfaces used applications, as well as after sales support. More broadly, in graphic industries. Our metalised foils are particularly because Univacco is based in Taiwan – which is a cost- brilliant, and are deliverable in a large range of gold and effective area to manufacture high-quality foils – we are far silver shades. For example, we offer high gloss, satin, matt more competitive than many of our competitors across the and super-matt finishes, as well as partly metallic shades. Western world. Not that we are geographically limited; our Whatever we do, we refuse to compromise on the quality large professional network enables us to work anywhere. and range of our patterns. Our high-quality products and sustainable operations are evidenced by our range of quality certifications. For What about your special-effect foils for cast instance, we comply with ISO9001 and ISO14001, as well and cure applications? as several FDA demands – no wonder our greenhouse gas To give you one example, we are able to develop exclusive emissions are as low as they are. In part, we are able to customised holographic designs for our clients. This could do this thanks to our state-of-the-art coating facility, which be anything from company logos – combined with different lets us metalise, slit and store foils. Of course, we do all this holographic effects – to hidden security textures included with a strong sense of social responsibility, and work to in an existing pattern. In addition, we have a large range fulfil all our health and safety requirements. of standard holographic and lens patterns in our portfolio. What plans do you have going forward? What lessons have you learned over your We have a new site – which will be around 10,000m² – long history? under construction in the Netherlands. We are working For us, quality and stability are the most important to make the site environmentally friendly, making sure it things in high-end markets, which are the areas we complies with the industry’s 2030 sustainability goals. For tend to focus on. Only this allows us to meet our clients’ example, the factory will need only minimal amounts of requirement, which in turn lets them meet their own energy to run smoothly. clients’ needs. At the same time, we constantly try to More broadly, we are developing several new product improve our services, allowing us to develop innovative lines, and will keep expanding further into new markets and interesting products. and countries. And, of course, we are careful to do all this sustainably. In general, why should customers choose Univacco over its market competitors? Our unique selling point is that we offer an extremely Further information Univacco customer-oriented technical service. For example, we www.univacco.eu offer our customers consulting advice about possible foil

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 31

CPI002_Univacco.indd 31 13/07/2018 09:47 Special report > Decorative effects Fashion finishes Decorative finishes are more than the final touchfirst for packaging design, at once offering consumers more while defining a product’s market position and central demographic. Ceri Jones finds out how decorative finishes are helping brands gain prominence among competition.

he cosmetics and toiletries most widely used material in the sector, But how does a brand premiumise and industries are growing steadily, making up almost 42% of cosmetics project above the cluttered shelves? T even in developed markets. packaging. As the majority of global “Growth will primarily be driven by the Currently, Asia-Pacific is at the fore in consumers purchase cosmetics image-conscious trend, especially among terms of volume, followed by the US, from high street supermarkets and the working population,” says GlobalData. Western Europe and Eastern Europe. chemists, it is clear that value is of the “With so many brands, from Dior to Lush, Whether standard or luxury, it is becoming utmost importance. pushing for minimalism, packaging has increasingly difficult to remain visible in This is where finishing and decoration got to have luxury, style and elegance.” heavily saturated markets, which creates are important. GlobalData research pressure for brands to differentiate and reveals that 33% of people are drawn to Fashion show give ‘extra’. transparent and clear packaging, with With a glut of fashion-hungry consumers Naturally, the choice of materials is at a further 33% finding surface textures and a highly competitive industry, is it the the core of design. Where metals have exciting. Rather than try to compete with public themselves or brands leading the always presented a superior appeal over luxury materials, high street brands can way? “According to the projects, it could plastics, they also come with higher prices, easily imitate their styles, and compete be both,” says Olivier de Lataulade, head of locking them into the luxury ambit. It is through decoration and the agility to packaging, finishing and printing expertise unsurprising that rigid plastics are the respond quickly to changing fashion trends. at L’Oréal. “On one hand, we can define

32 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_109_L'Oreal.indd 32 16/07/2018 12:29 Special report > Decorative effects

specific decoration to follow the colour of the year – purple is the colour of 2018 – and on the other hand, we could drive the innovation when we define specific perfume or limited edition make-up for designer brands, such as Armani or Yves Saint Laurent, in line with the last showcase of the designer.” Pantone Colour of the Year is the perfect example of the push and pull nature of design. While the company designates a colour of the year – apparently chosen according to the past 12 month’s events and anticipation for the year ahead – it is ultimately arbitrary. However, not incorporating this colour in your latest packaging lines would The marble-effect packaging of the L’Oréal X Balmain lipsticks give them a premium, haute couture feel. suggest being out of touch. Last September, L’Oréal launched radical colours and feel like they were positive effect on consumer buying one of the most exciting cosmetics getting a genuine piece of fashion. behaviour. So it is little wonder we collaborations to date, working with The L’Oréal X Balmain Color Riche are seeing brands, particularly in the Olivier Rousteing, creative director at lipsticks were presented in art deco-style cosmetics sector, emulating the latest Balmain, to develop L’Oréal Paris X tubes with marble effect to create an cultural and fashion trends in their Balmain Color Riche – a limited edition opulent stone aesthetic using the more packaging decorations. collection of lipsticks in 12 bold shades. economical rigid plastic. “Fashion trends are the main influence on print and decoration choice,” he Our products’ immediate attractiveness is continues. “API focuses on the four strongest trend drivers each year that due to a combination of aesthetics and perceived will appeal to a wide audience within value; this drives our choice for the design and the luxury product sectors. For example, development of our packaging. Neon Storm is expressive, Ethereal is – Olivier de Lataulade, L’Oréal feminine, Primary Matrix is science and Diamond Luxe is beauty. Our survey also While poles apart in terms of accessibility, “It was a big challenge for us to match revealed what people believed to be the De Lataulade asserts that affordability is key the marketing brief on a plastic part,” De essential elements and finishes when to L’Oréal’s loyal customers, “Our products’ Lataulade explains. “After several trials, creating packaging that leaps from immediate attractiveness is due to a we achieved this amazing aesthetical the shelves. More than a third believed combination of aesthetics and perceived result using, for the first time, a specific that embellishments were key, and 27% value; in addition to the cost, this drives plastic master batch.” Demonstrating the believed that tactile elements, such as our choice for the design and development power of decoration and embellishment, embossing effects, were essential in of our packaging.” Conversely, Rousteing the Balmain range was offered complete impacting consumer behaviour.” tackles this from a realm of excess, saying with kitsch-come-cool necklaces to Agility is essential in order to to Vogue last August, “Now we realise that hold the lipstick on the chest, keeping it respond to shifting trends and still stay we need a moment of flamboyance and handy, but mainly showing off that you’d price competitive – a serious challenge, maximalism, and to take risks. If Balmain is managed to bag a piece of haute couture. even for major cosmetics companies. going to make lipstick, we have to make it Looking beyond the heady world the most exquisite possible.” Give me a design of design, new technologies are It takes exceptional decorative finishing In March this year, packaging solutions also casting their influence on what techniques to marry these ideals and be firm API Group commissioned an is possible in decorative printing. able to sell high-end design at high street independent survey of decision-makers However, is the emergence of digital prices. For this project, finishing was in the packaging industry. David Peters, printing simply a nice bonus, or can everything. It was essential for the make- group creative development manager it really extend printing capabilities up to be instantly recognisable as Balmain, at API – which has worked with L’Oréal for the cosmetics sector? which saunters between highly decorative on packaging projects – says, “Of those “The continued advancement of baroque and elegant art deco, to convince surveyed, 82% believed that packaging digital-print technology means it’s consumers to splash out on the more that reflects current trends can have a a good option to consider alongside

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 33

CPI002_109_L'Oreal.indd 33 16/07/2018 12:29 Special report > Decorative effects

traditional methods. Digital print can be craft a tear drop into the packaging, a more cost-effective alternative when and, using our specialist lamination quantities are small and designs change process, we created a premium so often,” says Peters. packaging finish – the first of its kind De Lataulade agrees, confirming that within this particular sector – that has L’Oréal already has a firm foothold on the been positively received by customers. digital printing path. “Digital printing is a “A new demand for specific finishes, new trend in the cosmetics industry that such as diamond-shine, glitter, lens we use for Elsève labels at L’Oréal, which and pearlescence, are becoming more are part of the most sophisticated labels noticeable in the market,” Peters on the market. It is a lever of efficacy and continues. “In the past year, there agility, and it reduces the time needed to Staying fresh but maintaining brand consistency is has also been a growing demand for market. For the decoration, we can also something L’Oréal’s Elsève range has excelled in. additional metal finishes, including use it for limited editions.” “For cosmetic products, metallic copper, rose-gold and zinc, which is finishes and effects suggest luxury, a trend that we expect to see continue Luxury effects quality product performance and beauty,” in to 2019.” “Metallic effect is a huge trend in some says Peters. “API receives two types of However, there is reason for caution countries, mostly for luxury brands and brief requests from customers: one where – Peters reminds us that trends should make-up,” says De Lataulade. “We can impact, shine and drama are required be treated as a guide and that not all do creative effects on all the materials on-shelf, and one which looks to create trends are suited to all categories.“It we use for our packaging: cardboard, subtle and more sophisticated effects. is about what you do with the trends, plastics, metal, labels and tube, thanks This can be achieved through a variety understanding the brand and what to more than 20 different printing or of decoration and applications.” made it successful.” Lataulade finishing techniques.” As De Lataulade mentioned earlier, this agrees, pointing out that not everyone According to Peters, this degree of style of decoration has been an enduring is drawn to glitz and glamour. As diversity and on-shelf drama has many element of L’Oréal’s Elsève line over recent a reactionary trend, ‘naturality’ is advantages, “Soft metallic and reflective years, while still managing to stay fresh becoming important for on-the-pulse materials work well for enhancing with each additional variety. The self- brands. He concludes, “Customisation, products and ensuring consumer adhesive, printed-film labels of the Elsève personalisation, agility, uniqueness appeal with finishing touches range have holographic, pearlescent and interactive decoration are our and embellishments able or metallic decorations, depending future challenges.” to ensure maximum on the application of the decorative effect.” specific product. But even in this sector, where gold and silver embellishments are now commonplace, new decorative effects are emerging. Peters explains how API used its expertise to create packaging for Lancôme’s skincare products, saying, “The latest lens technology was utilised to

Pearlescent, metalic and holographic designs are all on-trend in 2018 – and purple is the Panatone colour of the year.

34 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_109_L'Oreal.indd 34 16/07/2018 12:29 Company insight Putting personal-care brands ahead of the pack Paris-based company Codimag has developed some of the finest label printing machines in the world. Its Aniflo press technology combines the advantages of offset quality, flexo simplicity and digital flexibility for outstanding printing.

hen quality and cost control matter, the VIVA without the high ink expenses. These benefits, plus its Aniflo self-adhesive label printing press from maximum speed of up to 75m/minute, make it productive W Codimag, with its comprehensive offering of and efficient for short and medium runs, creating 1,000– value-added processes in-line, can give personal-care brands 100,000 labels per job. a powerful competitive edge. A growing number of label converters across the world are Aniflo printing technology is the solution for a package already delivering significant value for personal-care brands presentation that conveys excellence and exclusivity. Its with Aniflo printing lines. Besides the capability to produce waterless offset platform brings unparalleled definition and appealing label designs that generate point-of-sale impact, 90% of the colour gamut. Moreover, integrated units for screen Aniflo printers have the flexibility to save supply chain costs printing, varnishing, foiling, embossing and die cutting make it with short lead-times and reduced stocks. They are also easy to include distinguishing decorative features, including helping to cost-effectively extend brands, providing more raised varnishes, metallic and rich opaque effects, plus matt, variations for scents, hair type and skin type. gloss or velvet finishes. Using economical chemistry-free plates that take just minutes to image – and with low operational costs, minimised Further information Codimag waste and a simple workflow requiring no need for colour www.codimag.fr/en preparation – Aniflo boasts the flexibility of digital printing

Codimag.indd 3 23/05/2018 16:03 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 35

CPI002_Codimag.indd 35 13/07/2018 09:41 ReportStore

View our latest range of reports at www.globaldata.com/store

Decode the Future Understand the Market Dynamics, and Growth Potential in your industry

Our analysts produce over 15,000 quantitive and qualitative reports annually providing:

• Forecast and Historical Data and Analysis

• Trends and Historical Data and Analysis

• Competitor Analysis and Key Market Players

• Key Opinion Leader Quotes and Market Surveys

Contact GlobalData to fi nd out more about our reports or to fi nd out how our intelligence solutions can help your business.

+44 161 359 5813 / [email protected] / www.globaldata.com/store

GlobalData_Generic advert.indd 1 23/06/2017 10:38 Insight > Innovation New faces Estée Lauder has successfully revamped its image in China, from a luxury brand for older women into a youthful brand positioned for a younger audience. In doing so, the company recorded a 40% increase in sales there, compared to a 5% rise in its other global markets in Q4 2017.

riginally considered a sophisticated brand for older women due to its range of anti-ageing products, O Estée Lauder decided to revamp its image in China to make the brand more appealing among the rising population of young women there with high spending power, given that women formed 44.3% of the country’s workforce as of 2016. And with China accounting for 17.1% of the global cosmetics and toiletries industry in 2017 and forecast to emerge as the fastest- growing market by 2022, it was a prime target for a brand relaunch. To do so, Estée Lauder invested a great deal of time and effort to understand the Chinese cosmetics landscape, consumer behaviour and social media preferences before embarking on its new strategy.

The market research The importance of social media in product choices for beauty and grooming in China was highlighted in a 2016 GlobalData consumer survey, in which half of Chinese female consumers aged 18–24 stated that social media often or always influences their product choices when purchasing beauty products, therefore making it an important channel to leverage with this age group. Another factor, is that luxury cosmetics are popular among Chinese women for their perceived superior performance. Considered a premium brand, Estée Lauder was already among China’s top-ten cosmetics players in 2017, and so could leverage this envied position. Additionally, social media is certainly popular. In 2016 China had the highest number of new social media users globally – a whopping 134 million – and millennials are often influenced by the trends on this platform. Estée Lauder also leveraged its US origin in order to market itself in the country. With research from GlobalData showing 44% of female respondents associated high-quality beauty/grooming products with the US. Foreign-origin products are perceived favourably in China, with 43% of Chinese females saying they are interested in and actively buying beauty and grooming products from a foreign country, while a further Estée Lauder brand ambassador supermodel Liu Wen.

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 37

CPI002_110_Estee lauder.indd 37 16/07/2018 11:16 Time to get serious...

The clock is ticking... At Airopack we take the health of our planet seriously. Airopack’s unique Pressure Control Device is a far Our engineers have made a commitment to making superior delivery system to petrol propellants or things better. Together with our global customers pumps. All of the content is used resulting in Zero we have developed a Planet Friendly aerosol. An Waste Airopack requires fewer raw materials in aerosol that is driven by pure air. manufacture, consumes less energy in production and transporation. Result: much lower CO2 emission. Airopack contains no propellants, just cream, lotion or Airopack doesn’t contain harmful gases, petroleum spray and pure, clean air. Each transparent Airopack is based propellants. Nothing but 100% pure, clean air. created from transparent plastics only, which in turn makes every Airopack aerosol completely di erent Good things happen when you think Airopack. from any other aerosol system. Good for you and good for the planet.

Want to know more about Airopack? Contact us now: T +31 416 22 40 40, E [email protected], I www.airopack.com Airopack Headquarters: Van Hilststraat 21, 5145 RK Waalwijk, The Netherlands

Airopack.indd 1 12/07/2018 09:58 Insight > Innovation

47% stated that they are interested but as of now, not yet actively buying such products.

The campaign Once the company had the information on the landscape, they decided to use Chinese celebrities to endorse the brand through an interactive social media campaign. This way, it could speak directly to their desired millennial market through an ambassador it trusted. In 2016, it recruited Chinese supermodel Liu Wen for an interactive WeChat campaign named ‘EyeQ, which focused on Estée Lauder’s eye- care products. The WeChat ‘EyeQ’ With a strong social media presence, Yang Mi created a lot of buzz for Estée Lauder. post depicted the contents of Liu’s enjoyed a huge following on China’s With a strong fanbase across handbag – make-up, a smartphone popular social media platforms – popular social media channels, and her personal diary falling out. WeChat and Weibo. They used Weibo, Yang was credited with creating the Consumers were then prompted to where the actress has 70.9 million most buzz for Estée Lauder, as the open the diary, which contained followers, to engage Yang’s young announcement of their partnership handwritten notes by Liu Wen and impressionable audience. The generated 86.5 million impressions on describing her favorite Estée Lauder announcement of the partnership on various social media platforms, along eye-care products, along with images. the brand and the actress’s official with 1.2 million discussions. Similarly, Liu Wen’s diary also featured Estée Weibo pages generated excitement supermodel Liu Wen’s interactive Lauder’ products that the supermodel around Estée Lauder and its ‘EyeQ’ campaign has been credited as felt she ‘could not live without’. Fans Admiration Charm colour lipsticks. one of Estée Lauder’s most successful could flip through the pages and This was followed with a campaign attempts to appeal to young Chinese complete a brand-related quiz at the featuring the Colour of Yang Mi lipstick, women, catapulting the brand to end for a chance to win surprise gifts a shade used by her television character, being one of the most active to use from Estée Lauder. which received a million retweets. WeChat as a ‘branding platform’.

The results Yang Mi is one of the most influential women Within the first month, sales of its in China, especially on Weibo. We see her as Admiration Charm colour lipsticks had risen by over 170%. Estée Lauder a really obvious choice to inspire and engage then used the momentum generated with Chinese women and beauty consumers. by the campaign to increase its sales – Tricia Nichols, Estée Lauder through online channels. Using WeChat and Weibo in order to carry out sales to the online Chinese retail By providing consumers with an ‘up With young female consumers in website Tmall, the brand’s cosmetics close and personal’ experience with Liu China highly swayed by celebrity business saw its online sales jump by Wen’s eye-care routine, Estée Lauder influencers and demonstrating a a considerable 50%. made its eye-care range more relatable willingness to emulate the trends set by The growth of social media to young consumers often influenced by them, Estée Lauder’s strategy made the influencers has changed how celebrity recommendations. Following brand an instant success among this consumers purchase products in the company’s digital campaigns, Estée cohort, as well as driving confidence in recent years. This is evident in that Lauder emerged as the most-mentioned the brands product offering, particularly 70% of Chinese women agree that brand by online influencers on WeChat. among 25-34 year olds. As many as they are more likely to trust blogger In 2017, Estée Lauder signed 39% of Chinese women in this age and user reviews over brand claims. Chinese actress Yang Mi as its brand group say that celebrity endorsements This sentiment is evidentally strongest ambassador after Eternal Love, her are important to enhance trust in a among millennial women – 73% – television series, went viral. Yang personal care product. whose desire for authenticity is

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 39

CPI002_110_Estee lauder.indd 39 13/07/2018 09:32 Insight > Innovation Image © CarlaVanWagoner/Shutterstock.com

Estée Lauder launched Colour of Yang Mi lipstick in conjunction with the actress’s television show Xie Na is the most prominent in uencer on the Eternal Love going viral. The lipstick matches that of her character. social media, with 90.5 million followers.

satisfied when viewing a real person when purchasing beauty and consumer preferences. Although giving a review of a product or grooming products. high quality and product functionality service, regardless of whether they Using a local influencer, whose style are the key to long-term success, have been paid to do so. or trends consumers may identify rigorous social media advertising Therefore, online influencers with, is an important consideration and interactive campaigns are also represent a highly important avenue in driving brand credibility. Estée important to draw attention to – and for reaching these consumers, Lauder’s decision to capitalise on the spread awareness of – not just new especially as they are the most likely popularity of a national social media launches, but also to revive interest in generation to be influenced by social influencer paid off, with the brand’s existing product lines. Brands looking media and video blogs/demonstrations cosmetics recording more sales in to reach a larger audience can use China than any other region in 2017. popular social media platforms to Manufacturers must therefore be sure emulate the success of Estée Lauder. Top ten influencers to collaborate with social media To take the Chinese market as an by followers, 2017 influencers whose values are aligned example, Weibo boasted 340 million with that of their brand, in order to monthly active users in Q1 2017 alone, 1. Xie Na – 90.5 million ensure consumers receive the while WeChat, a Chinese micro- intended brand message. messaging app, announced in March 2. He Jiong – 83.8 million 2018 that it had reached a billion The persuasive power monthly active users globally, the 3. Chen Kun – 81.1 million of social media majority of whom are Chinese. 4. Angela Baby – 80.6 million The nature of social media often With rising spending power, women impacts the purchase decisions of have emerged in China as a key 5. Yao Chen – 80.5 million young, image-conscious consumers target for luxury brands. Appearance- who follow the latest styles and conscious women with money turn 6. Zhao Wei – 79.4 million products trending on these platforms to luxury brands for their superior 7. Ruby Lin – 74.5 million as a way to express their individuality. performance and Estée Lauder tapped Brands can capitalise on the into this consumer desire to spend 8. Yang Mi – 70.9 million popularity of social media platforms more on cosmetics for better results, when promoting their products, while repositioning its products to appeal to 9. Guo Degang – 67.6 million engaging with consumers in real time this consumer group. With the idea of 10. Jimmy Lin – 66.9 million to boost brand appeal as well as US cosmetics as a symbol of luxury, gaining insights into changing the future is bright.

40 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_110_Estee lauder.indd 40 13/07/2018 09:33 180005_2_Essentra_Lotus_Full Pg Ad 210x286mm_DS1.pdf 1 05/02/2018 10:09

PCI043_Essentra_FP.indd 1 12/07/2018 10:07 2O18

2O18

SEPTEMBER 5 & 6, 2018 | ALTMAN BUILDING & METROPOLITAN PAVILION, NEW YORK CITY, USA

North America’s only dedicated event for the aerosol, dispensing, perfume & cosmetic packaging and design community

ADF PCD NYC is the premier meeting place to learn about how to turn these challenges into opportunities, to keep ahead of global beauty trends and to see leading innovations from the top global industry players.

REGISTER NOW J WWW.ADFPCDNEWYORK.COM

NY2018_NEWPCD&ADF_210mm w x286mm.indd 1 11/05/2018 11:18:00 EasyFairsNY.indd 1 12/07/2018 10:09 Events > ADF&PCD New York My kind ADF&PCD New York 2018 is set to deliver more brands, content and interactivity. of city DF&PCD New York, North and building special content that addresses see exhibitors from ADF&PCD Paris – South America’s only dedicated the very unique needs of smaller companies such as Actega Rhenacoat, A event for the aerosol, dispensing, quantity buyers. Albea and Quadpack. perfume and cosmetic packaging and In terms of content enhancements, the McEntyre-Gaharan say, “Paris is design community, returns 5–6 September world’s most prestigious packaging design acknowledged as a key centre for the 2018. The event, which takes place at the awards – The Pentawards – are for the first fashion, cosmetics industry – our event is Altman Building & Metropolitan Pavilion, time hosting a conference in the Americas, the world’s biggest packaging show. By will include new networking opportunities, at ADF&PCD New York. This design- inviting companies to take booths at access to an additional conference and focused conference will feature the best ADF&PCD New York, we’re giving our a sizable expansion of the event’s and brightest design minds from all over visitors an opportunity to also see some networking hall floor. the globe, including of Europe’s most innovative aerosol, This year sees the launch of sessions lead by award- dispensing, cosmetics packaging suppliers ‘ICON’,where the most influential winning design agencies. and designers, alongside of course, decision-makers from global perfume Alli McEntyre-Gaharan, the very best talent and cosmetics brands will gather to event director of the working within the network, discuss packaging issues and ADF&PCD Portfolio, is US market. share best practices. also introducing more This year, organisers international content to the are working closely New York edition through a with independent series of new features – the beauty brands and Made in France & EcoTours. These will be special trails for visitors to follow to

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 43

CPI002_111_Show Preview.indd 43 13/07/2018 09:34 30 & 31 JANUARY | PARIS PORTE DE VERSAILLES, PARIS

Europe’s only dedicated event for the aerosol, dispensing, perfume & cosmetic packaging community

FIND OUT MORE J WWW.ADFPCDPARIS.COM

2019_PCD&ADFNEWEnglishSave210x286.indd 1 08/05/2018 15:27:55 Easyfairs.indd 1 12/07/2018 10:11 Events > ADF&PCD New York

These international suppliers join a showfloor featuring over 150 world- leading suppliers of packaging and aerosol innovations, such as Aerofil Technology Incorporated (ATI), Coster USA, Emerson, Lindal Group Holding, Parcome, Seram US and SGB Packaging Group, among many more. ADF has free-to-attend and interactive workshops, which will allow attendees to enhance their skills and knowledge, and will be run by a host of industry pioneers. The conference agenda follows. McEntyre-Gaharan concludes: “Whether you’re a c-suite decision-maker, engineer, involved in research and ADF has a plethora of free-to-attend interactive workshops and seminars with industry pioneers. development or product design – make sure ADF & PCD New York 2018 is in your Manav will describe the process of Detlev Melcher, publisher and CEO, diary, it is not to be missed.” conceiving, developing and launching Aerosol Europe. several new and successful aerosol product Melcher presents opening remarks. Day one – 5 September 2018 applications set to influence the future of the industry. 14:15–14:30: Breakthrough 10:00–13:00: Regional and of digital printing for round national market trends 11:45–12:05: Latest technology hollow-bodies for new formulation benefits Alexander Hinterkopf, managing 10:15–10:35: California air in aerosols director, Hinterkopf. resources board update Prema Khanka-Bohra, global business In time for the Aerosol Forum in Doug Raymond, president, manager, Honeywell. New York, the new-generation D240.2 Raymond Regulatory Resources. This presentation will cover new materials launches with several important upgrades. The California Air Resources Board (CARB) from Honeywell, and how they are will begin their next rule development on enabling formulators to create innovative 14:30–14:45: Unleashing the Consumer Products. This is CARB’s first products that create game-changing power of digital decoration for rule development in several years. innovations for brands. mass production Ofer Nir, vice-president of marketing 10:35–10:55: Mist: Understood 12:05–12:30: Why we do what we do and business development, Velox. (Make MoreMagic) campaign Joe Bowen, vice-president of sales In this session, Nir shares insight gained Mary Frash, marketing manager, and marketing, Aeropres. about the world of mass production Ball Aerocan. Bowen will share data demonstrating digital packaging decoration. CAPCO has spearheaded a campaign, how safe the aerosol product form really Mist: Understood, which speaks to is in consumers’ hands. 14:45–15:00: Present and future millennial consumers. of UV inks for aerosols 12:30–13:00: Legislative and Eduardo Alegria, global metal deco 10:55–11.15: Tapping regulatory priorities in a mid-term inks sales director, Sun Chemical. into innovation election year and beyond Patty Ramey, director of marketing, Steve Caldeira, president and CEO, 15:00–15:15: Intensifying Sherwin-Williams, consumer Household and Commercial spray performance with an brands division. Products Association. innovative nozzle This presentation will discuss Quik-Tap; a How will trade associations continue Anne Mechteld-Mosman, product reusable spray device that allows aerosol to navigate through ongoing political marketing manager, Medspray. can disposal in any refuse or recycling disruption, negative rhetoric and Medspray develops, manufactures location, as well as full paint usage. partisan rancour to advance their and supplies nanotech SNUs. Medspray advocacy priorities? nozzle enables a soft moving cloud, with 11:15–11:45: NextGen: Spraying extensive spray duration. Anne Mechtelf- the future of personal care 14:00–16:00: Aerosol technologies, Mosman provides a demonstration and Manav Lalwani, executive vice- technical advances explanation of the technology behind president, American Spraytech. and innovations this innovation.

Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com 45

CPI002_111_Show Preview.indd 45 13/07/2018 09:35 Events > ADF&PCD New York

15:15–15:30: Leveraging packaging to capitalise on consumer trends ADF&PCD Innovation The Innovation Awards driving the CPG market Awards Jury 2018 2018 Categories Michael Mapes, CEO, Exal. n Christophe Pradere, BETC Design Mape’s presentation will assess and PCD Awards Categories n Cindy Hundley, SPRAY review the key trends impacting n Personal Healthcare & Skincare n Detlev Melcher, Aerosol Europe n Hair Care & Hair Colour brands across all CPG categories. magazine n Makeup & Cosmetics n Cynthia Hundley, Spray magazine n Perfume & Home Fragrance 15:30–16:00: Meet the speakers n Laurraine Drake, Estée Lauder n Rising Star Award n Marianne Klimchuk, FIT n Indie Beauty Award Day two – 6 September 2018 n Harry Bennett, Bennent Consulting n Bernard Quennessen, Coty US ADF Awards Categories 10:00–12:15: The future of n Scott Carpenter, Formulated n Personal Healthcare, Skincare & Sun Protection the global aerosol industry Solutions n David Burke, Pratt Institute n Industrial & Technical application n Eric O’Toole, Pratt Institute n Pharmacy & Veterinary 10:15–10:30: Pressurised n Deanna Utroske, Cosmetic Design packaging, beyond sprays n Jamie Matusow, Beauty Packaging Scott Carpenter, vice-president, n Hervé Bouix, Estée Lauder marketing and partner, innovation, Formulated Solutions. The presentation will discuss this rapidly changing landscape and how brand-owners can leverage these innovations to enhance the user experience.

10:30–10:45: Use of an aerosol dispenser system for optimised delivery of nano-particles Antal Gyorgy Almásy, vice- president, AeroService. NanoSalt Aerosol: a new step forward in public health. Applying table salt in nanometric form, using the aerosol dispenser, is a 7,000-year See the launch of ‘ICON’, where the most in uential decision-makers convene and network. advancement in technology. 11:15–11:30: Reduce cost 11:45–12:15: Meet the speakers and improve production with The speakers on the second day of 10:45–11:00: Bag on valve inline leak detection for the proceedings introduce themselves. gassing and filling solutions aerosol industry Aldo Villagrossi, sales director, Jeff Boedigheimer, senior business 14:00–16:00: Ecodesign and COSMAR Italy. development manager, Emerson. sustainable developments Villagrossi will explain how Cosmar This presentation will describe a can help troubleshoot BOV filling micro-leak detection system from 14:15–14:30: ‘Plug-in Can’: and avoid common errors. CASCADE, a division of Emerson New aerosol system Automation Solutions. Peter Lamboy, consultant, LPC. 11:00–10:15: Minimist – dispensing without propellant 11:30–11:45: Aptar 14:30–14:45: The state of or pressurised gas BOV technologies sustainable packaging Brad Barron, executive vice-president, Jason Coleman, senior account Adam Gendell, associate director, Alternative Packaging Solutions. manager, Aptar Pharma. Sustainable Packaging Coalition. Minimist is a non-aerosol, propellant- Coleman’s presentation will discuss free dispensing system that delivers a current and future Aptar BOV 14:45–15:00: high-quality mist-like spray. Barron, of technologies in the pharmaceutical Sustainable packaging APS will be demonstrating the and medical device industry and Jason Galley, director,development, innovations behind this product. where it is heading next. Ball Aerocan.

46 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_111_Show Preview.indd 46 13/07/2018 09:35 Viva.indd 1 12/07/2018 10:12 19 77 20 17 OFFSET INNOVATION

Codimag FP.indd 1 12/07/2018 10:16