Philadelphia's Distinct and Diverse Districts Are Ready to Be Explored

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o m t p l e f : P the back Turn to of this guide for complete maps of , c l o k w i s e f r Philadelphia aneda the ounding ar a p h y surr Chinatown, p. 36 P h o t g r neighborhoods Philadelphia’s distinct and diverse districts are reAdy to be explored By JoAnn Greco and Rhonda Riche

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 31 12-10-04 10:20 AM Ò OLD CITY (Historic, Waterfront District, Society Hill) New Bohemians With its cast-iron storefronts, art galleries and Belgian block streets, this neighborhood has the look and feel of an artist enclave. On First Fridays, it’s packed with tech entrepreneurs (along N3Rd Street) and other creative types Stroll back to Colonial days in Elfreth's Alley checking out art gallery open houses. At other times, there's a more laid-back vibe.

MusT see: family friendly Indulge in comfort food and kitsch at 1. Carousel? Check. Miniature has a terrific collection of hipster- Jones Restaurant (jones-restaurant. golf? Check. Awesome shakes and approved tees — many priced for as com), Stephen Starr's homage to burgers? Check. Franklin Square low as $5. And if you're looking for Brady Bunch-era nostalgia. The (historicphiladelphia.org/franklin- something a little more unique, they 1970s-inspired decor features shag square/what-to-see), one of William can custom print a design on the carpeting, bubble lamps and a roaring Penn’s original five public squares, premises. fireplace. But the retro cuisine is the offers wonderful people-watching, real attraction. The pickiest kids will be eating and playing. 3. Elfreth’s Alley (elfrethsalley. unable to resist the baked macaroni org), between Front and 2nd streets and cheese, fried chicken and burgers. 2. While Old City T Shirts and just north of Arch Street, bills itself Adults will be transported back to their Souvenirs (oldcitytshirts.com) may as America’s oldest continuously own childhood with Bubbe’s brisket. not look like a destination shop, it inhabited residential street. Two homes are now open to the public, but the real fun is in strolling past the others and getting a sense of how modern and Colonial Philadelphia coexist.

4. No visit to Old City would Franklin Vine St be complete without stopping by Square The Continental 1 Highway (continentalmartinibar.com). Local 676 d impresario Stephen Starr kicked off Race St his restaurant career by imaginatively o l u m b s B v

3 spinning an old diner into a martini u r n e 2 Cherry St bar — and in doing so, pushed the neighborhood right over the edge a n i e l T C V B C h r i s t o p e , D Arch St into hipper-than-thou territory. a t i o n s Located on the Independence l u s t r 5. o p f r P H L 5 4 Mall, The National Museum a p I Market St

of American Jewish History's . M (nmajh.org) archive of over a r l L t h C V B a n K

30,000 objects from the Colonial y Chestnut St period to the present day helps bring S t S t S t S t S t o n t S t h t h the concepts of democracy and t h n d r r d a p h y : B r a p h y : P H L F 3 2 6 5 4 freedom to life. P h o t g r P h o t g r

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 32 12-09-28 10:04 AM Old City is a lively mix of modern and

Photography: Naomi Finlay for PHLCVB Finlay Naomi Photography: historic Philadelphia

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 33 12-10-10 5:26 PM Ò PARKWAY MUSEUMS DISTRICT Paris in Philadelphia An American Champs-Élysées, the Benjamin Franklin Parkway is home to some of the nation’s most iconic museums and institutions. This lively public space is also the scene of music festivals and the city’s first “Diner en Blanc” pop-up dinner party.

musT see: Charles Dickens first editions and 1. The jewel of the city’s cultural world personal letters — you can even see is The Philadelphia Museum of Dickens’ stuffed pet raven, Grip. Stop family fRiendly Art (philamuseum.org). Called the by the Children’s Room for original You’ll find two important science museums at Parthenon on the Parkway, the main artwork by famed local son N.C. Logan Square. For child-friendly exhibitions, building was co-designed in 1907 by Wyeth. visit The Franklin Institute (fi.edu). It’s also prominent architects Julian Abele home of the Benjamin Franklin Memorial and Howell Lewis Shay (Abele was 5. End your exploration of the and the Tuttleman IMAX Theatre. The the first African American to design a Parkway at JFK Plaza, locally known Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel major museum in the nation). There as LOVE Park. And make sure to University (ansp.org) is the place to learn are more than 200 galleries displaying have your picture taken with Robert more about the natural sciences and see examples of art and craft spanning Indiana’s LOVE sculpture while you’re specimens of birds, insects, fish, mammals over 2,000 years of history. It’s also there. and, of course, dinosaurs. the home of the “Rocky Steps” (see p. 100 for more about this Philadelphia filmic landmark). 2 2. A tour of Eastern State Penitentiary (easternstate.org) is guaranteed to send shivers down your spine. Every year it’s the scene of a fantastic exhibit featuring “haunted 1 attractions”; this year it runs from September 21 to November 10. In the spirit of the French influences 3 in this neighborhood, it’s also host Benjamin F to a Bastille Day fête in July, which ranklin Pkwy means you’ll have to come back for a 4

summer visit. Highway 676 Vine St

3. The recently opened Barnes Winter St Vine St Logan

Foundation (barnesfoundation. Square a d S t o

org) hosts an amazing collection N B r of impressionist, post-impressionist Race St and early modern art. The newly Cherry St renovated Rodin Museum

(rodinmuseum.org) has the largest Arch St collection of works by sculptor 5 JFK Blvd S t S t S t

Auguste Rodin outside France. S t S t S t S t

S t S t d t h n d r t h t h t h t h s t t h 2 3 2 1 9 1 8 1 7 1 6 1 5 2 1 2 0 N N N N N N N N N 4. The Parkway Central Library of Market St the Free Library of Philadelphia (freelibrary.org) features one of the world’s biggest public collections of

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 34 12-10-15 12:15 PM C V B

a p h y : P H L The Philadelphia Museum of Art is home to more than

P h o t g r 200 galleries

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 35 12-09-28 10:07 AM Ò CONVENTION CENTER distRICT A Movable

Vine St Expwy 676

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Pennsylvania Convention Center and Race St

some of Philadelphia’s finest hotels, 1 Cherry St 3 4 this neighborhood is the place where 2 5 locals and visitors meet and mingle Arch St while experiencing culinary and cultural Filbert St delights from around the world. Market St S t S t S t S t S t S t S t S t t h t h t h t h t h t h t h t h 1 3 1 2 1 1 0 9 8 7 6

must see: offers delicacies from all across Asia; favorites include Vietnamese pho and Thai red curry. If you're traveling with The Convention district is home 1. a large group, visit Sang Kee Peking to amazing outdoor art installations, Duck House (sangkeechinatown. including Claes Oldenburg’s com), a Chinatown landmark that Paint Torch and Jordan Liska’s serves delicious duck and other Grumman Greenhouse in delights until 11:30 p.m. on Friday and Lenfest Plaza. Saturday nights. Sample the best in local and global 2. The African American Museum flavors at the Reading Terminal 5. in Philadelphia (aampmuseum. Market (readingterminalmarket. org) boasts an impressive collection org). Housed under a converted of art and artifacts. In January, check train station (the Reading Railway of out a new exhibition called Come See Foodie heaven inside the Monopoly fame), this historic building About Me: The Mary Wilson Supremes Reading Terminal Market brings local farmers and international Collection (until June 2013). food vendors together under one enormous roof. It’s also home to Tommy DiNic’s Roast Pork Sandwich, which was recently voted the best in America by the Travel Channel’s Adam Richman. ’s lphia Philade 3. A cool modern art Chinatown exhibition space, The Fabric is one of the , A l a m y Workshop and Museum's gest in the lar C V B y (fabricworkshopandmuseum.org) countr unique artist-in-residence program has resulted in an archive of one-of-a- kind collaborations with internationally renowned artists such as Roy

Lichtenstein and Kara Walker. , t o p b m : P H L a p h y 4. Philadelphia’s Chinatown is one of the largest in America. It P h o t g r

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 36 12-10-09 10:02 AM s ee 4LfromM PthPe ] Top www.philadelphiasightseeingtours.com 215.923.8687

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 37 12-10-09 12:37 PM Neighbords 5-0.n d 38

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Photography: PHLCVB Ò WASHINGTON SQUARE DISTRICT (GAYBORHOOD/MIDTOWN VILLAGE) URBAN RENEWAL The sunny residential streets of Washington Square mixed with the sidewalk seating of Midtown Village’s ultra-chic restaurants give this district a distinctly downtown feel. Another of The Mural Arts Program can be William Penn’s five original squares, Washington appreciated all year long Square is rich in cultural history, too.

MUST SEE: HOT CUISINE 1. Songwriters Kenny Gamble Washington Square is home to and Leon Huff produced a string of many destination restaurants. hits for artists such as Patti Labelle, Reserve a courtyard table at Chef the O'Jays and Teddy Pendergrass. Aimee Olexy and Stephen Starr's See where they made musical Talula’s Garden (talulasgarden. magic at their historic Philadelphia com). Or sample Iron Chef Jose International Records. Garces' Spanish-influenced fare at Garces Trading Company 2. Fans of old-fashioned deals will (garcestradingcompany.com), a enjoy perusing Antique Row on restaurant and gourmet grocery Pine Street and Jewelers’ Row on store. It's also home to the Sansom Street. Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board’s first wine boutique. 13th Street is the heart of the 3. Visit the oldest piece of land Gayborhood continuously owned by African Americans, the stately Mother Bethel A.M.E Church and Museum (motherbethel.org). Or see the newly renovated Philadelphia Market St History Museum at the Atwater Kent (philadelphiahistory.org).

Exhibits include everything from a Chestnut St new show about the city's Mural Arts Program to a hat that Sansom St 2 Abraham Lincoln once wore as a Walnut St disguise on a visit to Philly. Washington 4 Square 4. Midtown Village, known as Locust St the Gayborhood, is home to many

LGBT-friendly boutiques, businesses Spruce St and bistros. 1

Pine St For more LGBT 3 destinations, visit Lombard St philadelphia

South St St St St St St St St St gaytourism.com th th th th th th th th 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 Photography: PHLCVB Photography: S Avenue of the Arts Avenue S S S S S S S South St

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musT see: eet South Str is known for 1. Take in the global flavors of South GoiNg SOuTH its colorful Philly: Washington Avenue is South Street between Front buildings a hub for Vietnamese restaurants and 10th streets has been specializing in Pho, a tasty noodle youth central in Philadelphia soup usually served with beef or for decades — and today that chicken. Or venture to South Street means a plethora of tattoo to experience roti and jerk chicken at shops, a bevy of comics and one of the many Caribbean shops and vinyl stores and enough Goth restaurants. to furnish Dracula’s closet for the rest of his undead life. For 2. The Italian Market on 9th a casual sit-down dinner, try (italianmarketphilly.org), between the old school Italian American Christian and Wharton streets, is cuisine at Villa di Roma home to a century-old outdoor food (delucasvilladiroma.com), a market, as well as a variety of indoor South Street insititution. fishmongers, cheese purveyors and butchers. At the end of it all: Pat’s King of Steaks (patskingofsteaks. com) and Geno’s Steaks (genosteaks.com) duke it out for the title of best cheesesteaks in town.

3. The Fleisher Art Memorial (fleisher.org) gallery and art school The century-old outdoor incorporates an old Romanesque Italian Market

church into its sprawling space. C V B Violet Oakley murals, Samuel Yellin , P H L ironworks and a collection of statuary join changing exhibitions by students and faculty.

4. Cap off your evening with a stop at the High Note Café (highnotecafe.com) for some great , t o p b m : A l a y

live music and tasty Italian desserts a p h y such as tiramisu, gelato and fresh

homemade cannoli. P h o t g r

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 40 12-10-03 9:50 AM the femAle gAze: Women Artists mAking their World November 17, 2012 - April 7, 2013

Featuring over 150 works of art by modern and contemporary women who have transformed the way we see the world.

Joan brown, Untitled (Self-portrait in Turban with Eskimo Dog Pin) (de- tail), 1972, enamel on canvas, 24 x 18 in., pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, Art by Women Collection, Gift of linda lee Alter, 2011.1.12 © estate of Joan brown, Courtesy of George Adams Gallery, New York

see for YoUrself PAfA.org

Tickets sold on all vehicles and in the Independence Visitor Center SighTSeeing TOURS Of Experience the History PhiLADeLPhiA Trolley Tours 24 or 48 Hour Pass The double-decker bus 21 Stops tours provide amazing 90 Min. Daily Tours views of the City! Carriage Tours Private Coaches • Hop on Hop Off Check out our Daytime Tours • 24 or 48 Hour Pass Speciality Tours Frequent Evening Rides departures • 21 Stops • Amish Country 5 from th & M • Streetasrket Call for FREE shuttle Fairmount Park pick up from • Mural Arts ...and More! Center City Hotels Tickets sold on vehicles and in the Independence Visitor Center Check out our Speciality Tours Amish Country, Ghost NEW! Tours, Duck Tours, Mural Arts and More! NEW! FRANKLIN’S Departs from Philadelphia FOOTSTEPS Downtown Marriott – WALKING 12th and Filbert Streets. TOURS 215-389-TOUR (8687) 215-389-TOUR (8687) | phillytour.com phillytour.com

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 41 12-10-15 12:22 PM Ò UNIVERSITY CITY DISCOVERY DISTRICT University City is home to six colleges and universities and is a hub of life-sciences innovation. Travel west on Market Street from Amtrak's 30th Street Station and you’ll discover Philadelphia’s Avenue of Technology, the city’s high-tech corridor. It’s also home to a vibrant African expatriate commercial district and plenty of green space where everyone comes together to enjoy the neighborhood’s bustling street scene.

mUST see: den St Spring Gar 1. Baltimore Avenue is famous among students for its inexpensive Arch St

ve Lancaster A eats, East African cuisine and Powelton A ve JFK Blvd S t S t t h n d

vegetarian-friendly cafes. For local 3 6 3 2 N Philadelphia flavor, visit Elena's Soul Market St N 5 (elenassoul.com) for live music, tasty Chestnut St

mac and cheese and peach cobbler. t S t S t Sansom St 2 S t h n d r d

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2. For more multicultural experiences, Locust St S t S t S t S t S t S t t h r d t h t h t h visit New Delhi (newdelhiweb.com), t h 4 0 3 9 3 8 3 7 3 4 4 3 S S S S S Spruce St S Philadelphia's oldest Indian restaurant, South St for the tasty $8.95 lunch buffet. Pine St 3

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Archaeology and Anthropology, v oodland A e commonly called The Penn W Museum, is internationally renowned and utterly compelling.

Discover more diversity at World 4. lphia Café Live (worldcafelive.com), a Philade three-tiered music venue known for is one of the The world-renowned University s hubs hosting emerging local folk, world and nation’ of Pennsylvania Museum of alt-country artists as well as nationally of higher Archaeology and Anthropology touring acts such as Adele and Band education of Horses. And look for regularly scheduled concerts geared to kids.

5. In the old days, Amtrak's grand 30th Street Station was the main point of entry to Philadelphia for travelers. It still sees nearly four million out-of-town passengers each year. It's home to The Porch, a public space created from a parking lane and sidewalk that attracts locals on their

lunch hour. a p h y : A l m P h o t g r

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 42 12-09-28 10:14 AM Neighbords 5-0.n d 43

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Ò MANAYUNK Main Street, USA Defined by its picturesque canal and streets, this distinctive neighborhood was once the center of the city’s 19th-century mill industry. Today, it’s home to a mix of established families that have lived in the ’hood for generations, young singles and recent college graduates. At night, the bars and restaurants of Manayunk draw visitors from across the Delaware Valley and around the world.

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must see: Mitchell St v e P echin St M 1. With more than 20 furniture anayunk A outlets in just a few short blocks — e Silv ranging from big brands to office v v er e furnishings to vintage — Main wood St erington A ve Street boasts the largest such cluster Lev y A onaster on the East Coast. M ve h A ceum St M oug y anayunk A xbor L Ro 2. Once every summer, crowds een Ln T err Gr gather to watch intrepid bike Cr ace St eeson St v 2 e Pensdale St racers climb the iconic Manayunk Main St Wall, the halfway point of the Philadelphia International Cycling Championship. 1 Schuylkill Riv Shurs Ln mit St Friday-Night Lights Her Philadelphians are serious about their er e t v S

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i W Salaigncac St Ridge A in 1685. Manayunk's First Friday event R — a night of art gallery hopping and Osborn St boutique shopping — provides the perfect

opportunity to visit area restaurants and C V B bars to sample the wide variety of local Sumac St ales and lagers. For more places to shop, dine or eat, visit manayunk.com. a p h y : P H L P h o t g r

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 44 12-10-03 9:49 AM Bethlehem P e 1 v erm G antow n A ve

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illow Gr ringfield A W Making W Sp History This verdant residential area may resemble a small village more than a big city neighborhood, but its sophisticated cafes and boutiques — not to mention some stellar cultural attractions — will soon have you thinking differently. c o m a . mUST see: Morris Arboretum material that has become a signature 1. Visit Morris Arboretum of feature of Philadelphia’s northwestern the University of Pennsylvania neighborhoods. (morrisarboretum.org), about a mile from the shopping district. Mixed 5. Stroll down the hill along the into a series of strolling gardens — tree-lined, cobblestoned a t K r z e s i c n f o h u l p including ones dedicated to ferns, Germantown Avenue and check , M e roses and Japanese plantings — are out an eclectic collection of shops, surprising sculptures such as a herd of including stores specializing in eco- grazing steel sheep. a n i , C k friendly home furnishings, antique maps, ethnic and botanical prints,

e n s y l v 2. Take a quick trip back in time at used books and creative toys for kids The Johnson House Historic Site and adults alike. ★ y o f P (johnsonhouse.org). Built in 1768, it

e r s i t was home to three generations of a n i v Quaker family who worked with both European and African Americans to end slavery and improve living conditions for freed African e t u m o f h U Cake Bakery & Bistro Americans. It is also Philadelphia's only accessible and intact stop on the Underground Railraod. o r i s A b

3. Stop for lunch at Cake (cakeofchestnuthill.com) in the conservatory space of the lavishly o m t p l e f : M stocked florist, Robertson’s.

4. Architecture buffs will want to , c l o k w i s e f r explore the streets off Chestnut

a p h y Hill's main drag to take in the Germantown Avenue, picture-perfect homes built from Chestnut Hill

P h o t g r Wissahickon schist, a quarried

Neighborhoods 5-0.indd 45 12-10-03 9:55 AM