dec ora ted from blanks to embellished fashion

A California Apparel News special section

JAnuAry 2013

Company Profile Sublimation or Screen Keep Me consulting Two Printers’ Perspectives Taking Design Know-how Behind the Scenes

New ResouRces Banta Android Homme James Haunt The Graphic Collection by American Apparel

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Buhler 011713.indd 1 1/15/13 4:47:38 PM Company Profiles

Sublimation or Screen Two Printers’ Perspectives

Screen-printed T-shirts have been a staple since the mid-20th century, when the introduction of plastisol ink made it possible snowboard manufacturing. to have more-flexible and -durable graphics. The introduction of The creativity is almost limit- sublimation printing introduced highly detailed digital imagery to less. I have 13 artists who work the process. Both processes have their advantages and drawbacks. for me. We have over 60,000 California Apparel News Decorated Contributing Writer Deirdre open-line library and copyright- Newman caught up with two printers—Joel Monroy, owner of ed designs, all created by my Rags to Riches Printing in Los Angeles’ Lincoln Heights neigh- staff. Even technically, we have borhood, and Rob Davis, chief executive officer of sublimation the most technically advanced printer Avid Ink in Corona, Calif.—to get the lowdown on the printing presses in the United pros and cons of each technique. States. They print about 14,000 sheets per hour. emulsion squeegees—and the Sublimation printing allows for more The cons are when we make detail and color, but designs cannot list goes on. But once you have be printed on 100 percent cotton technological advancements we the materials needed, traditional (pictured, Avid Ink design). have competitors that try and screen printing is more or less reproduce them. We have a lot cost effective for design with one Rob Davis of our customers that say these or a few colors. When it comes to Chief Executive Officer customers can do it for a cheap- designs with few colors, screen Avid Ink er rate. But about 75 percent of printing is the way to go. Cost www.avidink.com the time, we get those custom- becomes an issue with screen I was one of the first, if not ers back because they find the printing once designs start get- the first, full-service, sublima- quality, customer service and art ting complicated, as with designs tion-print providers in Southern aren’t as good as we can do. The Screen printing is economical and that have many colors or designs California. I chose sublimation legalities also [are an issue to fast if the design is limited to one or two colors. that are photographic in nature because it was the process that consider]. We’re a totally com- with different tones and shades. allowed the most creativity— pliant legal facility. Joel Monroy The thing with screen printing is technologically as well as artisti- Another pro is we are diverse. Owner it requires one screen for every cally. There was such a demand We treat our customers as indi- Rags to Riches Printing color involved in the design. So in the industry back in 1997. viduals and understand the com- www.thehumansurprise.com when you have a design with a I got my first experience petitive nature. They need that Having been screen printing plethora of colors, you require when I was manufacturing intellectual-property protection. and running my shop for five many screens, and this is where snowboards. We were using We have over 300 customers; 90 years now, I’ve become very the setup becomes expensive sublimation printing and trans- percent of them are in LA. familiar with the screen print- because you need a screen for ferring inside the factory. As an I love being part of the print ing and apparel industry and the each color. When you compare employee, I came to the conclu- industry, especially that the ap- different processes of apparel this to processes such as direct- sion that it would be cheaper for parel industry has allowed us to printing. I focus on traditional to-garment printing, where no my employer to outsource this be the leader. I’m so thankful, hand-pulled/manual screen print- screen setup is required to print process, so I sought out the tech especially that we are a leader as ing. This method, like all, has its many colors, then screen print- resources like ink manufacturers a U.S. manufacturer. benefits and drawbacks. ing begins to lose its economic and pre-press manufacturers so I The challenges [over the past Traditional screen printing incentive. could do the printing externally. 16 years] have been the same— still holds strong as the go-to In my opinion, when it comes I ended up leaving and took [my just satisfying the customer. method for apparel printing. It’s to screen printing, there is also former employer] as my first When you produce something economical enough to handle the issue of environmental customer. I bought a transfer that is beautiful and elegant, they large-quantity orders and has a friendliness. Most of the inks and machine from them and sublet a say, “What’s next?” As we are relatively quick turnaround time. chemicals used in screen printing small office and hired one per- constantly progressing—from It does require a good amount of are not the safest for the environ- son, who is still with me today, a creative, artistic level and a material, however. ment, and some are downright to work on the graphics, and we customer-service level— a con- To print with this method re- hazardous. They do have eco- produced them. It allowed me stant imperative is to stay No. 1, quires a variety of different inks, friendly materials, but they aren’t to focus on the printing process and that’s our goal—to be No. depending on the substrate, and as easy to use and are only eco- and technology rather than a 1 in the United States from the also requires the use of screens, friendly to a certain extent. whole multitude of processes of perspective of our customers. ●

4 California Apparel News Decorated January 2013

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Alstyle 011713.indd 1 1/15/13 11:07:57 AM Keep Me Consulting Going Behind the Scenes

Ali Kay and Anne Des Barres, the co- online contemporary e-tailer. founders of the luxury knits loungewear “Our relationship with our factories is line Keep Me, were not the kind of fash- huge. Anne is so experienced in produc- ion-brand entrepreneurs that craved the tion,” Kay said. “We are super organized spotlight. All the back-of-the-house work with the manufacturing side of things. that came with having their own line— Part of what we were so committed to the design, production, operations and was we didn’t want to be breathing down fulfillment side—was their happy place. the necks at any of our factories. We like All of the front-of-the-house marketing to have a very nice business. We never necessary that came with selling and pro- felt like it was worth it—and we’ve al- moting a branded product—that was a burden. ways seen eye to eye on this—to be yelling at someone over a When the two came to a crossroads in continuing their knits tank top being on time.” brand, Kay said, they asked themselves, “What do we want to be The product-development clothing includes some of Keep doing on a daily basis?” Me’s proven original styles and exclusive women’s casualwear She said, “One of the things we didn’t love is we weren’t natu- bodies, depending on the needs of the customer. rally great at marketing ourselves, and we didn’t love and enjoy it. “On the design side … people still email us, [saying,] ‘My The things we enjoyed were making a quality product, running a Keep Me pants are all worn out. I need new ones. Where do I get great business and working together.” them?’ Our sell-throughs with our private-label side have shown When they decided to that our design is pretty on point, too,” Kay said. shift from brand building For new clients, they tailor their services based on which aspect to private-label consulting, of the business the client requests advice. One example is Spirit- Kay and Des Barres found Hoods, which has its own clear fashion vision but needed Des their first business with Keep Barres’ expertise to tighten up its day-to-day-operations side. Me’s wholesale customers. For a start-up brand, Kay said, Keep Me offers the “bigger- The two offered private label picture” ideas that the two learned from launching their own and product development to business—finding the right product assortment and fabrication stores that had stocked Keep choices that make manufacturing more cost efficient. Me’s well-fitting knit basics. “[We] lead them down a path where they could not spend un- Some were boutique retail- necessary capital at the beginning,” Kay said. For more informa- ers, and one included a major tion, visit www.keepme.com.—Rhea Cortado Banta Graphics With Humor Logos and screen- Surf in Los Angeles’ San drawings of house- prints are back in Fernando Valley. A Japanese hold items such as a style. And that’s distributor, 5 Nuts, has placed the wrench, a hanger and a toilet great news for shirts in some Japanese shops. scrubber. Banta, a design op- “I usually choose things to Banta uses Ameri- eration from Los An- print that make me laugh,” Banta can Apparel blanks. The geles. The T-shirt com- said. “I love beach culture, surf- T-shirts wholesale for pany is devoted to the ing, skating and marine life, so $12.25. The fit is designed graphics of Brett Banta. those themes always find their way into for slim bodies and open minds. “The His art is guided by his my shirts alongside the humor.” goals of the company are to have fun idiosyncratic take on Some recent Banta graphics include a and make shirts that we think our friends the world. manatee, probably destined to be a team would wear,” Banta said. For more in- Banta T-shirts have been sold at hipster mascot, holding a trident. There’s a picture formation, contact Dan Johnson at (562) boutiques such as Giant Robot in Los of a surfer riding an amazing wave with 480-9004 or [email protected] Angeles’ Little Osaka neighborhood and a great white shark leaping from the surf or email Banta at brett@wearebanta. pioneering action-sports shops such as Val right behind him. Another T-shirt depicts com.—Andrew Asch

6 California Apparel News Decorated January 2013

04,6-11 DC.indd 6 1/15/13 4:48:40 PM connections, he was able to introduce his brand to a cadre of well-known musi- cians. Also, promi- nent boutiques such Android Homme as Atrium, Traffic and Karmaloop were willing to Duty Now for take a chance on Android Homme during those Future Fashion years, when a majority of retail- ers were only willing to bet on the proven and established brands. Call it streetwear with a luxe edge. Or maybe it’s casual Laval officially introduced Android Homme’s Summer and luxury with a street look. Fall 2013 at the Agenda trade show. Along with new looks Los Angeles–based Android Homme has been charting a for the “Propulsion” sneakers, he exhibited cut-and-sew cot- course between luxury looks and street edge and has attracted ton T-shirts that satirize the world of high fashion. One shirt attention from celebrities who can look as debonair as Frank spoofing tumult and brand change at venerable fashion house Sinatra or as stylishly ragged as Lil Wayne. Yves St. Laurent bears the slogan “Yves Was an Android.” In Rapper and Brooklyn Nets basketball team owner Jay-Z a Chanel-style font, another shirt bears the legend “Los Ange- has been frequently photographed wearing Android Homme’s les, New York, Paris, Mars.” high-top “Propulsion” sneakers, which were inspired by the Also on display were his “Story of Creation” T-shirts. Made in fury and the color of a rocket’s blast-off. Usher and Justin a heavy, poly-cotton blend, the shirts bear intricate graphics rep- Bieber have been spotted in Android Homme sneakers, and resenting different ages of human history. There’s a bright-green another fan, Anthony Gonzalez of hip French electronic band reptile on one shirt representing M83, deejayed last summer’s opening-night party for the the Garden of Eden and a golden Android Homme showroom and by-appointment boutique IX bust of a Pharaoh on another shirt II II in a gritty section of downtown Los Angeles. representing the achievements of The neighborhood is scheduled to blossom later this year ancient civilizations. The series when the highly anticipated Ace Hotel opens. The area is fore- ends with a picture of the space cast to attract a great wave of wealthy hipsters and like-minded shuttle blasting off. “We’re ex- businesses to the area. Android Homme designer Javier Laval panding what is possible,” La- shares the sprawling space, located at 922 S. Olive St., with val said. “We’re a brand of the brother-and-sister designers Brandon and Sarah Scott. future. … We believe in every Building the new brand has been a long haul for Laval, a human’s ability to reprogram for former nightclub promoter and brand consultant who advised success.” Nike on appealing to youth and streetwear audiences. After Next up for Android Homme, finding success by counseling others on polishing their de- Laval plans to develop a handful signs, he decided to jump into the fashion game himself. But of branded shops for his line. he had lousy timing. For more information, email Android Homme started just as the Great Recession put [email protected] or the economy in a deep freeze. Laval survived those years call (213) 896-0025. because of his nightclub past and some luck. Through club —Andrew Asch STARMAN: Javier Laval of Android Homme

California Apparel News Decorated January 2013 7

04,6-11 DC.indd 7 1/15/13 5:01:53 PM Graphic Collection American Apparel Adds Images For years, American Appar- American Apparel bodies and el’s tees eschewed graphics. But will feature graphics and pic- that will change with the launch tures by Klotz, who created pro- of a new collection, created by vocative printed T-shirts for his streetwear pioneer Rick Klotz. Freshjive label for 23 years. Known for sexually provoca- The Graphic Collection in- tive ad campaigns, American cludes a wide range of imagery. Apparel recently launched The On one end of the spectrum is Graphic Collection. the tee with a big dog in big red The Los Angeles–based ver- sunglasses and another with the tical manufacturer and retailer, words “Aloha Summer” in puff which runs a fleet of 251 stores, print. On the other end of the has been adding more printed spectrum are the T-shirt with a product to its mix in recent years. topless woman wearing a unicorn But largely it stuck to simple slo- mask and another depicting a set gans such as its “Legalize” collection, which had phrases such as “Le- of vintage cameras with the wording “weapons of mass creations.” galize LA” emblazoned on T-shirts and sweatshirts. Klotz said enigmatic subjects have staying power. “The most mem- The new collection is the company’s first foray into a full graphic- orable and compelling graphic designs that stick in your mind have an tee collection. undeniable wit and intellectual playfulness,” Klotz said. “They utilize With wholesale price points of $14, The Graphic Collection will humor, irony and ambiguity.” be first sold at American Apparel’s online store and at some Ameri- For wholesale information, contact American Apparel at (213) can Apparel bricks-and-mortar locations. The line will be printed on 488-0226.—Andrew Asch

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8 California apparel news DeCorateD January 2013

04,6-11 DC.indd 8 1/15/13 5:02:39 PM James Haunt The World Is a Canvas To James Haunt, the world is a big canvas. He’s painted murals on walls at the LA Fashion Week venue Box Eight, at the US Open of Surfing and on streets around Los Angeles. Sometimes those images can be found on the mobile billboard of a T-shirt. “One day, I’m given an opportunity to paint a mural, then I have to come up with a concept,” said Haunt, who was born with the name James Gillette. “Then I say, ‘I really like this piece; maybe it would work well on a T-shirt. ... It lends itself with being creative.” For his self-named downtown Los Angeles-T-shirt label, James Haunt, the artist uses a number of graphics from his murals. Graphics could be flying saucers, a robotic-looking face with eyes and a smile that seems way too big, or South- ern California beach girls. Of course these pop-art pinups are wearing James Haunt T-shirts. The label also offers T-shirts that are primarily blank except for a small pocket on the front bearing James Haunt graphics. James Haunt T-shirts have been placed at retailers such as Tilly’s, Zumiez and Kitson. The graphics are printed on custom-made T-shirts. They wholesale for $11 to $13. For more information, email [email protected].—Andrew Asch

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California Apparel News Decorated January 2013 9

04,6-11 DC.indd 9 1/15/13 5:03:08 PM Another company offering an alterna- Cleaning tive to traditional dyeing is New York–based ColorZen, which will pre-treat cotton fibers with a chemical process similar to cationic Up the Dye treatment—“but a whole lot more than that,” said Michael Harari, president of the 2-year- products that promise to eliminate many of old company. Fabrics made from ColorZen- Process the drawbacks of the dyeing process. treated fibers also come out of the dyebath Some are based on the cationic process, with clear effluent, which can be reused in Typical fabric dyeing is a messy process, a chemical process that increases the affinity the next dyebath. Treated fabrics use 90 per- involving large water use and harsh chemi- between the fiber and the dye. Treated fibers cent less water, 70 percent less energy and cal waste water, which must be treated before absorb nearly all of the dyestuff, producing 95 percent fewer chemicals, Harari said. The disposal. waste water that is nearly clear and can be dye process is shorter, reducing energy costs Several yarn and fabric makers have new reused for the next dye bath. and increasing capacity. Mt. Pleasant, N.C.–based spinning mill ColorZen’s products cost more than tra- Tuscarora Yarns has been showing fabrics ditional untreated cotton, but the added costs made from its ProTura yarn, made from are offset by the water and energy savings. cationic reactive cotton, according to Andy “There are significant dollar savings with Long, Tuscarora’s vice president of sales. water, chemicals, energy and dyes,” Harari Mixing the ProTura yarn with traditional said. “With our process, you use 50 percent yarns can yield new knit patterns dyed using less dyes, and [the shorter cycle time means] less water and chemicals. the dyehouses can increase production. All The company recently teamed up with of these savings are tangible and offset most international color-solutions provider of the costs associated with the technology. DyStar to offer a water-saving fiber and It’s almost like a shock to the industry.” dye process for colored denim using Protu- For more information about these prod- WATER SAVERS: Color Zen (top) and Tuscarora Yarns ra cotton and DyStar’s pre-reduced indigo ucts, visit www.tuscarorayarns.com and (bottom) have introduced new products and processes for dyeing using less water, salt and chemicals. and its Lava Chemicals & Dye. www.colorzen.com.—Alison A. Nieder

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Brown Sound Brown Sound’s mission is to make 6735 Knott Ave. clothing that suits the day’s war, Buena Park, CA 90620 nights of love life style. Their designs TEL: (714) 670-8886 are influenced by the proletariate, TEL: (714) 521-6104 military cuts; worn in a rock and roll tradition. Did they say rock and roll? FAX: (714) 670-8882 They should have just said a Men-at- [email protected] Work tradition.

10 California Apparel News Decorated January 2013

04,6-11 DC.indd 10 1/15/13 5:04:31 PM Apparel News Group Decorated apparel Resources

Alstyle Apparel and Activewear is an industry leader, designing, after year. In business for over 30 years, FDM4 is a well-established 1945-2013 manufacturing, and distributing high-quality blank apparel. Alstyle company with the knowledge and expertise to provide a high level of offers apparel in a variety of colors customer satisfaction. Our industry-specific expertise ensures soft- Sixty-eight years of news, and fabrics for men, women, ware and support is tailored to meet the demands of your industry fashion and information juniors, and youth. Alstyle also and helps you improve the bottom line. [email protected] offers a private-label program, ExEcutivE Editor ALISON A. NIEDER allowing companies to build their Fruit of the Loom® has been a leader in the apparel manufacturing Fashion Editor own brand. This features tear-away business since 1851, delivering on a promise of quality, value, and N. jAyNE SEwARD labels and relabeling services for trust. We focus continually on our sEnior Editor sewn-in or heat-sealed labels. customers’ needs and know that DEbORAh bELgum Alstyle recently opened a new your business depends on the avail- Editorial ManagEr manufacturing facility in Aqua Prieta, Mexico, that features state-of- ability of our products, the consis- jOhN IRwIN the-art manufacturing processes. Alstyle has a “quick-turnaround” tency of a superior decorating plat- contributing WritErs philosophy, placing their distribution centers strategically across the form, and the reliability you count ANDREw ASch country. Locations include Anaheim, Chicago, Atlanta, Dallas, Phila- on for quality and everyday value. RhEA cORtADO DEIRDRE NEwmAN delphia, and Toronto. www.alstyle.com Fruit of the Loom’s product line SARAh wOLfSON consists of a variety of T-shirts for WEbMastEr It is a very exciting time right now for Brown Sound. We just brought the entire family that’s made with a revolutionary high-density fabric tOm gApEN on a new team of rising designers and are in the process of final- for exceptional print clarity, as well as fleecewear—including a new social MEdia coordinator izing our latest collection of rock-inspired graphic tees that are due generation of fleece styles designed for today’s fashion trends. Add jENN KOLu to hit retail floors in March. The looks in our expanded color offering and you get the variety you’re look- crEativE MarkEting dirEctor for 2013 are reminiscent of music and ing for and the value your business demands. FruitActivewear.com LOuISE DAmbERg nature with elements of pop vice cul- dirEctor oF salEs ture and a simplistic edge. Most com- Pima Apparel is a manufacturer of T-shirts and fashionable apparel and MarkEting monly, the Los Angeles–based men’s for the whole family. Our products are made in China. We special- tERRy mARtINEZ brand is praised for the softness and ize in hard-to-handle sheer/lightweight fabrics. Our products are account ExEcutivEs DANIELLA pLAtt body-conscious fit that accompanies made from the finest Amy vALENcIA its unique graphic collection, birthing yarns, starting with the account ManagErs ultra-hip styles that have earned in count of 32 singles all LyNNE KASch excess of $1 million in sales each! “We have been receiving a lot of the way up to 50 sin- mARION mEtcALf requests for sportswear and are flirting with the idea of relaunching gles. All of our products salEs & MarkEting coordinator the contemporary sportswear division for Brown Sound this F/W are laundered in the bIANcA wEStcOtt season,” says Jonathan Knapp, key account exec for Brown Sound. fabric stages to elimi- classiFiEd sEnior account ExEcutivE “However, this summer, graphic tees will especially be the category nate most of the shrinkage and a washed-out vintage feel. Pima jENN KOLu to watch for us.” (714) 670-8886. [email protected]. Apparel Inc. is your reliable source for quality in stock blanks at classiFiEd very competitive prices. Pima Apparel, “Innovation with Comfort.” account ExEcutivEs ZENNy R. KAtIgbAK From harvest to hanger, Buhler Quality Yarns Corp. ensures your We carry the most innovative fabrics such as Poly Linen Blend and jEffERy yOuNgER supply chain is supported and your final product is of the utmost Bamboo Blend in a variety of colors. We are the best resource for classiFiEd accounting quality. Introducing Micro- T-shirt and stylish apparel blanks for the whole family. New 2013 mARILOu DELA cRuZ Modal® Edelweiss—the styles and colors are now in stock. www.pimaapparel.com sErvicE dirEctory same comfort and luxury account ExEcutivE with a greener footprint—to Welcome to the US Blanks premium fashion basic apparel line juNE ESpINO our portfolio, which includes for men and women. US Blanks is the creation of two decades of Production ManagEr Supima, Micro TENCEL®, research and expertise, incorporating the concept that styles should KENDALL IN Supima Outlast, and blends, be manu- art dirEctor certified by Oeko-Tex 100—ensuring safety for all applications. factured DOt wILtZER Bring your product to market backed by experience, relationships, with the Production artist jOhN fREEmAN fISh and unsurpassed technical support. www.buhleryarns.com finest cot- tons and Photo Editor jOhN uRquIZA FDM4 America Inc. specializes in the design, development, and raw materials. We believe in the idea that design, fit, and feel can controllEr implementation of software and hardware solutions for apparel be brought to a new standard in our market. As a vertical manu- jIm pAtEL and footwear enterprises. facturer, we mill our own fabric, dye, cut, and sew all right here in crEdit ManagEr Take advantage of FDM4 to the USA. Not only is our cut and sew domestic, but the majority of RItA O’cONNOR streamline your operations the yarns we use are made right here at home. US Blanks’ quality PublishEr/ and help improve the overall standards ensure that superior fabric, innovative designs, and qual- gEnEral ManagEr efficiency and profitability of ity sewing are implemented on every garment that passes through mOLLy RhODES your business. FDM4 is an our Southern California facilities. We appreciate each and every MnM Publishing corP.: integrated software solution, including Sourcing, Operations, Sales, customer that will keep the U.S. manufacturing jobs here and help co-cEos E-commerce, Financials, WMS, CRM, and Mobile Solutions. As the the U.S. economy thrive. www.usblanks.net tERI fELLmAN cARL wERNIcKE software developer—not a reseller—FDM4 offers continual support throughout the entire implementation process and support cycle. this listing is provided as a free service to our advertisers. we PublishEr/chairMan/cEo Custom development ensures you get maximum value and return on mARtIN wERNIcKE your investment with software that changes and grows with you year regret that we cannot be responsible for any errors or omissions 1922-2000 within Decorated apparel resources. PublishEd by MnM Publishing corP. aPParEl nEWs grouP publishers of: california Apparel News waterwear jr. ExEcutivE oFFicE california market center From blanks coming soon 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 Los Angeles, cA 90079-1777 (213) 627-3737 to embellished fax (213) 623-5707 dec April 5 classified Advertising fax (213) 623-1515 fashion & the latest www.apparelnews.net August 2 [email protected] ora advances Printed in the U.S.A. in technology tedA California Apparel News special section

California apparel news DeCorateD January 2013 11

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