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ON THE COVER ON THE Astier de Villatte’s New Guide to Paris Guide New Villatte’s de Astier

Six Esteemed Translators, in Their Own Words Own Their in Translators, Esteemed Six Manhattan’s Latest Purveyor of Matcha of Purveyor Latest Manhattan’s Director Johan Renck’s Sprawling New TV Series TV New Sprawling Renck’s Johan Director The Cult of Golden Goose Golden of Cult The EDITOR’S LETTER LETTER EDITOR’S This Season’s Most Playful, Ladylike Slippers Ladylike Playful, Most Season’s This San Francisco’s Art Scene Branches Out Branches Scene Art Francisco’s San Paul Aronson’s World-Class Bamboo Collection Bamboo World-Class Aronson’s Paul Burberry Launches a New Fragrance for Men Fragrance aNew Launches Burberry The Download: Jenny Slate Jenny Download: The and her own earrings. For details see Sources, page 118. page Sources, see For details earrings. own her and dress Rodriguez Narciso Richardson. Clare by styled and PAGETHIS earrings. own her and briefs Baserange turtleneck, Collection Kors Michael Richardson. Clare by styled and Olins Josh by photographed Theron, Charlize COVER THE ON EXPLORER’S CLUB EXPLORER’S COLUMNISTS inspired by a new spirit of fearless eclecticism. eclecticism. fearless of spirit anew by inspired ensembles layered with tired and tried the Replace things. favorite her of afew shares literature Irish of dame grande The Styling by Charlotte Collet Charlotte by Styling Lohr Thomas by Photography For details see Sources, page 118. page Sources, see For details Charlize Theron,Charlize photographed by Josh Olins on Wit

Clockwise from far left: Photography by Cass Bird and styling by Elissa Santisi; Fendi blouse and pants, Céline sunglasses, Finn bangle and Solange Azagury- Partridge ring. For details see Sources, page 118. Astier de Villatte’s store in Paris; photography by Julie Ansiau. El Anatsui: Five Decades, at Jack Shainman’s The 33 School in upstate New York, photographed by Geordie Wood.

74 66

THE EXCHANGE. ELEGANCE & TASTE.

63 TRACKED: Sarah Lavoine 74 AWAY WE GO 102 ADULT SWIM A mix of contemporary and Pack a bag and escape to St. Barthélemy, For 60 years, royals and rock stars traditional is this French interior where there’s nothing more to have flocked to Jean Pigozzi’s Villa designer’s signature. worry about than which carefree Dorane pool. His new book captures By Rebecca Voight look to choose. the action. Photography by Young-Ah Kim Photography by Cass Bird By Carl Swanson Styling by Elissa Santisi 66 THE ART OF THE DEALER 104 NEW ATTITUDE Gallerist Jack Shainman has 88 GAME OF THERON Inject a jolt of energy into edgy embraced artists who address The star of this month’s The Huntsman: styles with polished pieces and difficult subjects. Now his chutzpah Winter’s War is making peace with her radical proportions. is paying off. past (romantic and otherwise). Photography by Daniel Jackson By Julie L. Belcove By Alex Bhattacharji Styling by Geraldine Saglio Photography by Geordie Wood Photography by Josh Olins Styling by Clare Richardson 114 MAD ABOUT HUGH 70 THE IÑAKI EFFECT With two major TV roles this year, On the 10th anniversary of 96 DESIGNING WOMAN English actor Hugh Laurie faces his Le Chateaubriand, its pioneering The effortless design ethos of Clare toughest critic: himself. chef, Iñaki Aizpitarte, remains Waight Keller, creative director By Ned Zeman in a category all his own. of French brand Chloé, informs her Photography by Graeme Mitchell By Tarajia Morrell fashion and her Parisian home. By Joshua Levine Photography by Magnus Marding

editor’s letter THE EXAMINED LIFE

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS

CITY OF ANGELS Anubis (in Saint Laurent) and Bast (in Proenza Schouler) adapt to an L.A. lifestyle in the Richard Neutra–designed Wirin House.

HREE OF THE profile subjects in our April name by playing challenging characters such as the A sojourn to France takes us inside the beautiful issue—Chloé creative director Clare fierce warrior Imperator Furiosa in last year’s Mad Parisian home of Clare Waight Keller, who credits her Waight Keller and actors Charlize Theron Max: Fury Road. Her comfort in her own skin has in success as the creative head of Chloé to constantly and Hugh Laurie—have achieved success turn given rise to performances that explore her fear putting herself in the mind of the Chloé girl. While Tin their respective fields by seeking an understand- and vulnerability. “I’m not so interested in the things she learned her exacting design standards from fash- ing of themselves through their work. The task I’m strong at,” she says. “I’m way more invested in ion mentors like Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Tom hasn’t always been easy, but the self-awareness things that scare me.” Ford, her key to envisioning Chloé’s future has been they’ve gained has allowed them to push on to ever Writer Ned Zeman gets inside the head of actor listening to her instincts. “It’s about adaptability,” greater heights. Hugh Laurie, who this month stars in AMC’s six-part she says, and “understanding the flow of fashion, With her ravishing good looks, cover star Charlize miniseries The Night Manager, based on the book by which I try to sense intuitively all the time.” Theron seemed predestined for roles like the one John le Carré. A longtime fan of the British spy nov- she reprises this month as the vain evil queen in The elist, Laurie was so personally attached to his vision Huntsman: Winter’s War, a sequel to 2012’s Snow for the story that it inspired the occasional friendly Kristina O’Neill White & the Huntsman. And yet she’s tended to eschew disagreement with colleagues—but mostly admira- [email protected] roles that trade on her beauty, instead making her tion for his intense desire to get it right. Instagram: kristina_oneill

20 wsj. magazine

EDITOR IN CHIEF Kristina O’Neill

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Magnus Berger

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Knutsen VP/PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname GLOBAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Stephanie Arnold MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher BUSINESS DIRECTOR Julie Checketts Andris DEPUTY EDITOR Elisa Lipsky-Karasz MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR/LUXURY-U.S. Alberto Apodaca MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR/LUXURY-EU Omblyne Pelier DESIGN DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif TRAVEL DIRECTOR Kevin Dailey PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Jennifer Pastore BRAND DIRECTOR Caroline Daddario BRAND MANAGER Tessa Ku FEATURES EDITOR Lenora Jane Estes MAGAZINE COORDINATOR Suzanne Drennen STYLE DIRECTOR David Thielebeule LUXURY SALES COORDINATOR Robert D. Eisenhart iii

ART DIRECTOR Tanya Moskowitz EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, NEWS CORP Rupert Murdoch SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, NEWS CORP Robert Thomson CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, DOW JONES & COMPANY William Lewis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Thomas Gebremedhin EDITOR IN CHIEF, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Gerard Baker COPY CHIEF Ali Bahrampour SENIOR DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Michael W. Miller PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Scott White EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, WSJ. WEEKEND Emily Nelson SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Laura Stoloff HEAD OF GLOBAL SALES, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL MARKET EDITOR Isaiah Freeman-Schub Trevor Fellows RESEARCH CHIEF Randy Hartwell SENIOR VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Etienne Katz How do we pass VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Christina Babbits, ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Meghan Benson Chris Collins, John Kennelly, Robert Welch EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Sara Morosi VP VERTICAL MARKETS Marti Gallardo VP STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS Evan Chadakoff ART & PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Caroline Newton VP AD SERVICES Paul Cousineau on our values? FASHION ASSISTANTS VP INTEGRATED MARKETING Drew Stoneman Arielle Cabreja, Alexander Fisher, Giau Nguyen VP CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS Colleen Schwartz Will our money make our children’s lives easier? EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MULTIMEDIA SALES/ASIA Mark Rogers PHOTO ASSISTANT Amanda Webster EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, GLOBAL EVENTS Sara Shenasky WEB EDITOR Seunghee Suh SENIOR MANAGER, GLOBAL EVENTS Katie Grossman Or too easy? MANAGER, GLOBAL EVENTS Diana Capasso CONTRIBUTING EDITORS AD SERVICES, MAGAZINE MANAGER Don Lisk Michael Clerizo, Julie Coe, Kelly Crow, Jason Gay, AD SERVICES, BUREAU ASSOCIATE Tom Roggina Jacqui Getty, Andrew Goldman, Howie Kahn, Being wealthy can have its benefits, and its Joshua Levine, Sarah Medford, Meenal Mistry, challenges too. Clare O’Shea, Sarah Perry, Christopher Ross, Fanny Singer, Dacus Thompson You’d like your children to have the best WSJ. Issue 70, April 2016, Copyright 2016, Dow Jones and opportunities. And inherit your determination CONTRIBUTING SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online and drive. How do you get the balance right? Andrea Oliveri at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. Magazine We can help you pass on something even more SPECIAL THANKS Tenzin Wild is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal precious. Your values. (We’ve been helping for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday families for more than 150 years.) Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email For some of life’s questions, you’re not alone. to [email protected] or write us at: 200 Burnett Road, Together we can find an answer. Chicopee, MA 01020. For advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected] or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com. Wealth management, investment banking and asset management services in the United States are provided by UBS Financial Services Inc., UBS Securities LLC and UBS Global Asset Management (Americas) Inc., U.S.-registered investment advisers and/or broker-dealers (the broker-dealers are members of SIPC) and subsidiaries of UBS AG. Wealth and investment management services in the United States also are offered by U.S. branches of UBS AG. Any securities or other instruments offered or sold by UBS AG or its affiliates or subsidiaries are not deposits of UBS AG, are not insured by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC), are not obligations of or guaranteed by UBS AG or its affiliates or subsidiaries 24 wsj. magazine (except as expressly disclosed in writing), and are subject to investment risks, including possible loss of the principal amount invested. Assets held in custody at UBS AG are not protected by the Securities Investor Protection Corporation (SIPC). © UBS 2016. All rights reserved. ubs.com/pass-on-values Cartier

on the cover © CHARLIZE THERON Whether playing an iron miner, a serial killer or an evil queen, the actress has gravitated toward demanding roles over ones that play up her looks.

“A fter2 Days in the Valley, I was set. I felt lucky that I could pay the rent on my loft for a year. I said no a lot.” —Theron

devil’s advocate (1997)

2 days in the valley (1996) celebrity (1998)

the italian job (2003)

the curse of the jade scorpion (2001)

the cider house rules (1999)

aeon flux (2005)

north country (2005)

monster (2003)

“Charlize is only happy if she’s taking a sky-dive jump from the stratosphere.” —Jason Reitman, Young Adult director

young adult (2011)

prometheus (2012) hancock (2008)

“I knew she was committed when she called to say, ‘I’m about to come to Africa and I’m thinking of giving myself a buzz cut. What do you think?’ ” —George Miller, Mad Max

a million Ways to die director the huntsman: in the West (2014) Winter’s War (2016)

mad max: fury road (2015) IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER: © MGM; © WARNER BROTHERS;PARAMOUNT N/C; © PICTURES;PARAMOUNT; © N/C SONY(2); © PICTURES;NEWMARKET; © UNIVERSAL© PARAMOUNT; PICTURES;© WARNER © BROTHERS;WARNER BROTHERS;KERRY BROWN™/© ALL20TH PRECEDINGCENTURY COURTESYFOX; PHILIPOF EVERETTV. CARUSO/ COLLECTION; GILES KEYTE/UNIVERSAL PICTURES

26 Wsj. magazine Shop www.cartier.us - 1-800-cartier soapbox THE COLUMNISTS French Art de Vivre WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Wit.

ALAN ROZ LARRY SANDRA WILLIAM JANE Program available on selected items and subject to availability. DERSHOWITZ CHAST WILMORE BERNHARD NORWICH KRAKOWSKI 2

“I grew up in Borough “In my cartoons, I prefer “Someone slipping on “When I think of wit, “This is the last witty “I remember being Park, Brooklyn—a place funny to witty; I go for a banana peel is funny, I think of people like thing I heard: In the gifted a Dorothy Parker where wit was highly something that makes but there’s nothing witty Dick Cavett or Carol 1930s there was this collection. I was so taken rewarded. Jackie Mason the reader laugh. When about it. Wit involves Channing. It’s like place called the Stork by her sharp wit. And lived two doors down, I think of wit, I imagine using language in a mixing the perfect Club. The guy who man- then there are people and Buddy Hackett was watching a television clever way to reveal martini—too much aged it, the big cheese, like Tina Fey, another Conditions apply, ask your store for more details. around the corner. I show with too much some greater truth. vermouth, and you’ve was named Sherman individual I’d call a true 1 used wit later as a way to repartee. I can sense the We appreciate both the ruined it. Wit is dry. Billingsley. Even though wit. I love the long-term fight back. When I was in writers’ room behind cleverness and the light It’s a touch of self- it was café society and collaboration I’ve had college, Jewish kids like the conversation. People that it shines for us. In deprecation and the mixed, it was still very with her—two charac- me couldn’t get into fra- don’t talk like that. It my comedy, I love tack- ability to know when snobby—let’s just say ters now. We’ve been ternities. To mock them, just feels mechanical to ling dangerous racial or to pull back. You have that Jewish people were able to do so much on we made shirts that read me, and I register it in social situations, using to be a good listener to kind of a new thing, and 30 Rock and on Zaida Laida Shiksa, a an intellectual way but it language in a way to be witty. It was second black people were rarely Unbreakable Kimmy play on Yiddish, which doesn’t make me laugh. disarm them. The first nature in the ’60s and seated. So the story goes Schmidt. I hope wit meant ‘Grandpa had But funny is something show I ever created was ’70s—people liked being that Sherman Billingsley comes through in all sex with a non-Jewish else. I don’t think of called The PJs—we used funny. When I was little, arrives at his club one the characters I por- woman.’ But these days, Louis C.K. as necessarily to push the envelope all President Kennedy was night and finds Lena tray. I find something everybody’s terrified of witty, for example, but the time. I mean, we had incredibly witty. I mean, Horne sitting there with funny when it lives on the political-correctness simply as somebody who a character who was a Jack Kennedy could spin the comedian George many levels—a level

police. People forget is very observational crackhead! Once, we had a tale. You didn’t even Jessel. Billingsley walks of self-deprecation, of Photo M. Gibert. Special thanks: TASCHEN - Sculpture: www.laps000.com. that ‘political correct- and hilariously funny— two kids talking to each know what the hell he over to the table and, knowledge and height- ness’ was associated the same with Larry other and one said, ‘I was talking about, but looking at Miss Horne, ened reality. But it’s with Stalin’s purges of David. I don’t think of hope we never grow old,’ you were so taken by he very snootily says, very surprising to me artists. You could end them as standing back and the other kid said, his delivery. Everybody ‘Who made your reserva- to see how politically up with a bullet in the with one eyebrow raised ‘Well, the statistics are wanted to be like that: tion?’ at which point, correct we’ve become back of your head. Wit and saying exactly the in our favor!’ That’s a witty, urbane, sophis- without missing a beat, in 2016. I wonder where can tell you a lot about a right remark at the right hard joke, but that line ticated. Everybody Jessel says, ‘Abraham we can go from here. person’s intelligence. It’s time. They’re just very would be relevant today. seemed to have that Lincoln.’ Now that’s I actually did a one- a much better judge of astute. I love making I would rather defend natural ability. To be wit. It’s referential. Wit woman show based on intelligence than humor, myself laugh. I’m sort an uncomfortable truth witty is to be charming. takes two to tango. Your it. Female movie stars which can be rehearsed. of surprised by it every than be defending some- And I think you need to audience has to be smart from the pre-Code I have a son who’s single time it happens.” thing that’s simply done be charming to a certain and informed enough to era of Hollywood, like and goes out on a lot of for shock value.” degree if you’re going understand the refer- Mae West, could be dates. He tests these to have longevity in this ence. I used to collect so raunchy and witty women by their wit—not business. I’ve learned books of witticisms. But before they were edited. surprisingly, he’s still to be more charming as I can’t find them any- Sometimes they could go not married.” the years have gone by. more—all I have left are further in their wit than But sometimes I’m just self-help books!” we go now.” Dershowitz is professor emeritus Wilmore is host of The Nightly over it.” at Harvard and the author of Chast is a cartoonist and the Show With Larry Wilmore on Krakowski is an actress who Upside. Corner composition, design Giorgio Soressi. Abraham: The World’s First author of the memoir Can’t We Comedy Central. This month, Bernhard is a comedian and Norwich is an editor and writer. stars in Unbreakable Kimmy Tempus. Armchair, design Cédric Ragot. (But Certainly Not Last) Talk About Something More he will host the White House the host of Sandyland on His novel My Mrs. Brown is Schmidt on Netflix and in She Bow. Cocktail table, end table and pedestal table, design Piks design. Jewish Lawyer. Pleasant? Correspondents’ Dinner. SiriusXM. out this month. Loves Me on Broadway. Manufactured in Europe.

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BOOK SMART Astier de Villatte’s Ivan Pericoli (left) and Benoît Astier de Villatte at their printing workshop in the suburbs of Paris.

N MANY FIELDS today, there is certain knowledge that could potentially be lost forever,” says Ivan Pericoli, the co-founder of the Paris- based homewares brand Astier de Villatte. “To us, there is something so fragile and beau- Itiful about that.” Pericoli, 46, and his business partner, Benoît Astier de Villatte, 54, have built their company on the allure of that old-world savoir-faire. It’s a sensibility that defines all of their products, from notebooks and candles to the elegant milk-white ceramics for which they’re best known. Often mistaken for antiques, these ceramic pieces are handmade by artisans— many of them Tibetan and some even practicing monks—in the company’s 13th arrondissement workshop. “It’s not that we’re only interested in tradition,” explains Pericoli. “It’s just a certain taste we have. We like old things.” That passion for the past was the motivation behind the duo’s latest venture, the 2015 acqui- YOU KNOW IT. sition of the Société des Ateliers et Imprimeries Graphiques, or SAIG, the Linotype printing firm in the Parisian suburbs that has produced their journals WE KNOW IT. and diaries since 2000. “We absolutely didn’t want to be involved,” says Pericoli. “SAIG was doing well, but the investors were having personal problems. So we had to take it over, or it would have closed.” In the end, the purchase prompted their move into publishing. In January, the pair released their first book, Ma Vie à Paris, a city guide like no other. The English version comes out in July. Once the industry standard in typesetting, the Linotype machine—deemed “the eighth wonder of the world” by Thomas Edison—fell out of fashion in the 1960s. SAIG is the last operation of its kind in France, and it’s run by François Huin, a charmingly cantankerous 77-year-old who has worked there for 52 years. “Nothing compares with what Monsieur Huin can do,” Astier de Villatte says. “He under- stands the layout, the spacing, how the letters should be mixed.” SAIG’s hangarlike warehouse is clearly Huin’s domain, but his new employers are in their element partnership here as well, among the musty smell of paper and EXPERIENCE MATTERS. fresh ink, the whir of the printing press and the click- clack of their beloved Linotype. “When we make our Extraordinary adventures invigorate the senses and refresh the spirit. FRENCH PRESS notebooks we spend the whole week out here touch- Only our travel experiences offer the kind of world-class service, comfort, and access ing every cover,” says Astier de Villatte. that make the journey itself worthy of your most treasured destinations. With Ma Vie à Paris, their elegant new city guide, The Linotype machine in current use at SAIG the founders of French home goods brand Astier de Villatte have dates from the mid–20th century and resembles an To learn more, visit netjets.com/knowit or call 866-JET-9066 enormous typewriter with a 90-character keyboard. expanded into the world of publishing. Jacques Boisselier, a 24-year-old graphic designer whom Pericoli and Astier de Villatte installed BY ALICE CAVANAGH PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIE ANSIAU as Huin’s apprentice, works on punching out the English version of Ma Vie à Paris. He types out >

wsj. magazine 33 NetJets is a Berkshire Hathaway company. Aircraft are managed and operated by NetJets Aviation, Inc. NetJets is a registered service mark. ©2016 NetJets IP, LLC. All rights reserved. what’s news

PAGE-TUR N ER A selection of top picks, adapted from Ma Vie à Paris.

Duluc Détective Is your accountant always the last FULL VOLUME to leave the office and clocking Clockwise from above: SAIG’s printing up lots of overtime? A discreet press in action; the finished book with Astier de Villatte’s notebook covers; investigation will tell you quickly candles at the brand’s Paris flagship; if there is embezzlement going ceramics and stationery on display on behind your back. The motto at the store. of Duluc is “To be able to decide, you have to know.” 18 rue du Louvre, 1st arrondissement; +33-1-42-60-20-71

Poilâne The small tarts, decorated with a light feuilletée crown, as well as the turnovers filled with compote, are the perfect afternoon snack when eaten on a bench in front of the Square Boucicaut duck pond, before a stroll through the Bon Marché. 8 rue du Cherche- Midi, 6th arrondissement; +33-1-45-48-42-59 Alain Carion Lost in the galaxy, they made their way across the solar system, then fell randomly to earth, before ending up displayed in the window of Alain Carion, a spe- says Astier de Villatte. The quirky list includes the usual cialist in meteorites since 1972. subjects, such as antiques dealers, shops and restau- 92 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Île, 4th rants, but there are also the unexpected addresses: an arrondissement; +33-1-43-26-01-16 acupuncturist, DVD stores, a ribbon shop, an osteopath and a truffle seller, among others. Each entry is written

Musée d’Ennery in eccentric and entertaining prose (see excerpt at left). Joséphine-Clémence d’Ennery “It really shows you how excited they get about (1823–1898), the first wife of things—they’re all about sharing,” says New York retailer Monsieur Desgranges and the and designer John Derian, another Astier de Villatte col- longtime mistress, and then laborator and close friend. “When I was staying in their wife, of author Adolphe Philippe building in Paris [Astier de Villatte and Pericoli have d’Ennery, was behind the collec- one line of text at a time (thus the name Linotype), which apartments in the same building], I locked myself out on tion of 7,200 items that make up the machine casts into a “slug,” or bar of lead. The slugs a Sunday, and instead of being annoyed, they were excited the collection of Far Eastern art are then assembled to compose a page in preparation for because they managed to find a locksmith who worked on now gathered in this Renaissance printing on the equally ancient press. Sundays—they wanted to put him in the book.” Revival mansion. 59 avenue Foch, It’s painstaking work. The original French version Among the other local contacts included is Duluc 16th arrondissement; by appoint- of the guide took Huin over a month to set, and the end Détective, a private agency whose services the duo has ment only, resa@guimet .fr result is a tribute to his prowess. Along with his masterful not yet contracted. “We’ve tried almost everything Au Fou Rire typography, the volume boasts museum-quality binding, except Duluc,” says Pericoli. “They do have a very good Jokes and tricks, but also fire- 332 gold-edged pages, hand-drawn maps and black-and- reputation, though.” But Ma Vie à Paris is equally popu - works, streamers, wigs, beards, white photos on almost every page. It’s reminiscent of a lated by well-known names that have stood the test of moustaches and crazy cos- keepsake from a bygone era. “This is something Astier time, including Poilâne bakery and Berthillon ice cream. tumes. 22 bis rue du Faubourg does so beautifully,” says painter (and widow of French “Many of the places are very famous,” says Astier de Montmartre, 9th arrondissement; artist Balthus) Setsuko Klossowska de Rola, who has a Villatte. “But, again, they also have that fragility, that +33-1-48-24-75-82 line of ceramics with the company. “Everything they do thing we are drawn to. One day they could vanish.” has that visible touch, a real warmth to it.” The French edition of Ma Vie à Paris ($50) is currently Text has been edited The contents of the guide, which evolved from an available at NYC’s John Derian Company; johnderian.com. and condensed. addendum at the back of Astier de Villatte’s agendas, fea- In July, the English edition will be available from Astier de ture “the places we like and recommend to our friends,” Villatte’s retail partners worldwide; astierdevillatte.com.

34 wsj. magazine 36 the exchange (the fifth My (the Struggle fifth Ove Knausgaard’s Karl like sensations contemporary Don to Quixote the creation of the multilingual wordsmiths who bring them to you in English. Below, you to English. them six in who bring wordsmiths creation multilingual ofthe the known noteworthy first notable # of books the month)—arevolume out this is work also They authors. not the are only famous of their next up process specialt y for authors translation translated translator Madame Bovary Madame like you translation—from in books read classics great The Knausgaard and and Knausgaard Fredrik Ekelund Fredrik away my nerves, nerves, away my Home and Away and Home “I put down one one down put “I I improve it and and it I improve doing, and then then and doing, then I feel more more Ifeel then draft and that that and draft with what I’m what with Pernille Rygg Per Per Jo Nesbø, b kind of takes takes of kind

Knausgaard Knausgaard My Struggle comfortable comfortable improve it.” improve by Karl Ove Ove Karl by taking risks risks taking by Karl Ove Ove Karl by 50 50 The Golden Golden The Norwegian Section Petterson “Between of the world’s most esteemed translators take center stage take world’sof the translators esteemed most artlett Karl Ove Ove Karl don don 60 and , by , by .” IN OTHER WORDS OTHER IN , ,

, Tolstaya, Tolstaya, Mikhail Shishkin have a picture of of apicture have Joseph Brodsky, Brodsky, Joseph Fog in my head, and and head, my in the whole story story whole the Sleepwalker in a in Sleepwalker Sorokin, Anton Anton Sorokin, g first, so that I that so first, The Blizzard The performance

Baryshnikov by Vladimir Vladimir by the the then start.” then dozen Tsvetaeva, Tsvetaeva, ambrell poetry for for poetry , by Tatyana Tatyana , by Chekhov Vladimir Tolstaya Brodsky/ jamey jamey Tatyana Russian Sorokin “More “More than a than thing to read read to “I like like “I Marina

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IN OTHER WORDS, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM: AGENCJA FOTOGRAFICZNA CARO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; © LAWRENCE MANNING/CORBIS; ILYA GALAKHOV/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; NACROBA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; BOHEMIAN NOMAD PICTUREMAKERS/CORBIS; IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (FLAGS); COURTESY OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE UK; COURTESY OF STEERFORTH PRESS; COURTESY OF STATION HILL PRESS; COURTESY OF THE OVERLOOK PRESS (BOOKS); © BERND VON JUTRCZENKA; © INTERFOTO/ALAMY STOCK; DOMINIQUE CHARRIAU/WIREIMAGE; PHAS/UIG/GETTY IMAGES; GERTRUDE FEHR/ULLSTEIN BILD/GETTY IMAGES; FINE ART IMAGES/HERITAGE IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (AUTHORS); COURTESY OF FARRAR STRAUS & GIROUX (THE BLIZZARD); PHOTOGRAPHY BY F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (SWEET REVELATION) FIFTH AVENUE BOUTIQUE BOCA RATON •LASVEGAS •PALM BEACH MADISON A A HOUSTON •SANFRANCISCO TLANTA •DALLASORLAND O BAL HARBOUR•MIAMI NOW OPEN Te l: 1800536 0636 VENUE •BEVERLY HILLS FIFTH AVENUE BOUTIQUE BOCA RATON •LASVEGAS •PALM BEACH MADISON A A HOUSTON •SANFRANCISCO TLANTA •DALLASORLANDO hublot.com BAL HARBOUR•MIAMI NOW OPEN Te l: 18005360636 VENUE •BEVERLY HILLS SAPPHIRE ALL BLACK BIG BANG UNICO UNICO BANG BIG “It’s the handmade, distressed touch that that touch distressed “It’s handmade, the And while it might seem strange for a strange seem it might while And Law and Off-White founder Virgil Abloh. Abloh. Off-WhiteVirgil Law and founder design married the Rinaldo, Francesca Sneakers today often evoke level a often today Sneakers 38 GOOSE GOLDEN of cult the news what’s Goose Deluxe Brand, to launch their own own their launch to Brand, Deluxe Goose $500–$800 pair of Italian leather shoes shoes leather ofItalian $500–$800 pair makes them unique.” And for kicks fans, fans, for kicks unique.” And them makes explains, Abloh pre-scuffed, come to sneak- the then, Since streetwear. their pas that it But was observer. casual the individuality is everything. goldengoose everything. is individuality men’s much-coveted the in evident most attracted an intensely loyal following, following, loyal intensely an attracted model—have women’s and Superstar with pair to 2007 in line lace-up luxury of devotion that might seem excessive to to excessive seem might that of devotion one that includes Gwyneth Paltrow, Jude Gwyneth includes that one ers, with their synthesis of West Coast ofWest Coast synthesis their with ers, duo behind Italian fashion label Golden Golden label fashion Italian behind duo sion that inspired Alessandro Gallo and and Gallo Alessandro inspired that sion skater cool and Venetian craftsmanship— Venetian and cool skater deluxebrand.com. —Scott Christian deluxebrand.com.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (SHOES); HASSAN SHARIF, COMBS, 2016, COURTESY OF ALEXANDER GRAY ASSOCIATES, NEW YORK/ISABELLE VAN DEN EYNDE, DUBAI © 2015 HASSAN SHARIF/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY NY; EBTISAM ABDULAZIZ, BLUE FREEDOM, 2013, INSTALLATION VIEW; INSTALLATION OF WORK BY MOHAMMED KAZEM, 1980–TODAY: EXHIBITIONS IN THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, SHARJAH, UAE, COURTESY OF SHARJAH ART FOUNDATION; INSTALLATION VIEW, RAMIN HAERIZADEH, ROKNI HAERIZADEH AND HESAM RAHMANIAN, THE BIRTHDAY PARTY, INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART, BOSTON, 2015–2016, PHOTO BY CHARLES MAYER; INSTALLATION VIEW, 1980–TODAY: EXHIBITIONS IN THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, SHARJAH, UAE, COURTESY OF SHARJAH ART FOUNDATION

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF HBO; ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE FOUNDATION/ COURTESY OF HBO; F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (2) “In Japan, matcha is ubiquitous,” says Matthew Morton, the co-founder of Cha Cha Matcha, Matcha, Cha ofCha co-founder the Morton, Matthew ubiquitous,” says is matcha Japan, “In “New York has such an amazing mix of people,” says Morton. “We ofpeople,” 70-year-old have to Morton. says the want mix York“New amazing an such has viable in New York.” Morton, a son of Hard Rock Cafe co-founder Peter Morton, and his business business his and Morton, Peter New co-founder York.” Cafe in Rock viable ofHard ason Morton, TEA TIME TEA hot property tional matcha is served alongside signature specialty drinks developed by mixologist Gn Chan Chan Gn by mixologist developed drinks specialty signature alongside served is matcha tional with partnering eventually farms, tea independent small, visited and Japan to traveled they man who lives upstairs drinking coffee next to the 20-year-old creative type drinking matcha.” matcha.” drinking 20-year-oldtype the creative to next coffee drinking upstairs lives who man partner, Conrad Sandelman, both 23, met as students at New at York students as met University, 23, became they both where Sandelman, Conrad partner, a new Manhattan cafe dedicated to the stone-ground green tea. “We wanted to see if it was it was if see to “We tea. wanted green stone-ground the to dedicated cafe Manhattan a new a nice extended release of energy—calm yet alert,” says Sandelman. To find the perfect source, source, perfect the To find Sandelman. says yet alert,” ofenergy—calm release extended a nice using Japanese ingredients like yuzu and red bean. Coffee and baked goods are also on offer.on also are goods baked and Coffee bean. red and yuzu like ingredients Japanese using tradi- month, next opens which space, Nolita light-filled Kyoto. At Uji, their outside in one devoted matcha drinkers, drawn to the tea’s health benefits and pleasant rush. “The effect is effect “The rush. pleasant and tea’s benefits the to health drawn drinkers, matcha devoted chachamatcha.com. —Sara Morosi chachamatcha.com. traditional c version of ha, a cold acold ha, t matcha he he cha cha a with yuzu jam yuzu with matcha latte fl avored avored fl In a merging of simpatico styles, eyewear designer Garrett Leight has has Leight Garrett eyewear styles, designer of simpatico amerging In EYE TO EYE EYE accessories report highest quality materials combined with impeccably clean design,” says Leight design,” says clean Leight impeccably with combined materials quality highest twins behind sleek accessories brand WANT Les Essentiels. “They use the the “They use WANT brand Essentiels. Les sleek accessories behind twins collaborated on a capsule sunglass collection with Byron and Dexter Peart, the the Peart, Dexter Byron and with collection sunglass on acapsule collaborated on-the-go $235–$525; sensibility. garrettleight.com. of silver and amix and leather-wrapped feature style, Wilson on Leight’s rims ariff my aesthetic.” shades, The with “whichcompletely line is in Pearts, of the gold metals, while the folding sunglasses clip in a leather case nods to WANT’s to nods case aleather in clip sunglasses folding the while gold metals, Bean paste latte made a with with matcha red red

most prominent families and an iconoclastic iconoclastic an and families prominent most This month, three new documentaries focus focus documentaries new three month, This on exceptional human beings from different different from beings human on exceptional eras and backgrounds: a groundbreaking agroundbreaking backgrounds: and eras athlete, a member of one of the country’s country’s ofthe ofone amember athlete, the subjects share similar traits—spirit, traits—spirit, similar share subjects the artist. Despite their varied trajectories, trajectories, varied their Despite artist. intelligence, resilience and passion. passion. and resilience intelligence, REEL WORLD REEL

—Isaiah Freeman-Schub —Brekke Fletcher • • •

ROBERT GLORIA VANDERBILT GLORIA JACKIE merit is still debated. still is merit artistic whose provocateur, late the on light shed to art-world contemporaries and assistants lovers, his interviewed Barbato Randy and Bailey Fenton Directors Pictures the at Look Mapplethorpe: of subject the is motifs, sexual arresting his for and photographer, known artist controversial The MAPPLETHORPE film for HBO. for film emotional and intimate the directed Garbus Liz nominee Oscar posterity. for recorded were designer fashion and artist heiress, an as experiences mother’s his that ensure to wanted Cooper suggests, title the As himself. newsman Cooper Anderson and Vanderbilt Gloria Unsaid: Left Nothing behind force driving The American hero to life. life. to hero American this of legacy the bring to Rachel, widow, Robinson’s with closely worked director PBS. The for series hour Robinson Jackie in treatment Burns Ken full the gets legend The grace. and guts with synonymous is name whose pioneer rights acivil and divide racial the broke who star abaseball He was was the CNN CNN the was , also on HBO. HBO. on , also , a two-part, four- , atwo-part, wsj. magazine ROBINSO N

what’s news

LouIs VuItton

the beauty of SHINE BRIGHT MR. BURBERRY Clockwise from top right: Dior bag, OLLABORATIONS CAN BE KISMET, like love at Spinelli Kilcollin first sight. “Meeting Christopher Bailey was bangles, Parme Marin ring, Chanel shoes, one of those things where we clicked,” says Isabel Marant shorts artist and filmmaker Steve McQueen, who has and Saint Laurent Cjoined forces with Burberry’s chief executive and chief by Hedi Slimane dress. For details see creative officer to produce a short film for the brand’s Sources, page 118. new fragrance for men. The perfume—Mr. Burberry, launching this month—is offered in a sleek rectangular bottle with a black satin bow tied across the top, a look inspired by the black trench that has become an iconic symbol of the 160-year-old British fashion house. McQueen, who in addition to directing Shame and 12 Years a Slave has been making short films since the early ’90s, is both a romantic and an obsessive.

This marks the debut commercial film for the Oscar Loewe and Turner Prize winner. Starring actor and musician Josh Whitehouse and model Amber Anderson, and set to a soundtrack created exclusively for Burberry by the British-French musician Benjamin Clementine, the short tells the story of two people who have fallen madly and heedlessly in love. “I wanted to do a film about a trend report dirty weekend,” McQueen says. “When one takes one- self out of the everyday. You know that time in life when you’re with someone and all you THE SILVER LINING can think about is them? And all From everyday accessories to eye-catching statement pieces, these metallic they think about is you?” For the fragrance, Bailey numbers are flashy yet flattering. Whether worn during the day or at night, silver enlisted perfumer Francis accents stand out this spring. Kurkdjian, who concocted a distinctive woodsy scent (base notes include veti- ver, guaiac wood and COME FLY AWAY FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF BURBERRY (WHITEHOUSE); F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (SILVER ITEMS, FRAGRANCE); FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY) s a n d a lwo o d). “ T h e go a l is not to evoke the black trench Nothing symbolizes the thaw in U.S.-Cuban relations quite like the itself,” explains Kurkdjian, “but introduction of private jet flights to Havana. The on-demand charter to talk about the sensuality of company Victor now travels direct from 18 U.S. cities and San Juan, P.R., the man who wears the scent.” and has launched a program, Victor for Business, to help American —Thessaly La Force entrepreneurs meet their Cuban counterparts. Victor’s partners on the ground are two expat American brothers, Collin and Michael Laverty, who have introduced executives and art dealers to the intricacies of Cuba. SHADES OF GREY From top: The tours include meetings with leading artists and former ambassadors—or, fLy prIVate Behind the scenes with Josh to haVana Whitehouse; Mr. Burberry, the as Silicon Valley moguls might demand, visits to trendy underground clubs. new fragrance out this month. This is Havana, after all. flyvictor.com. —Tony Perrottet

40 wsj. magazIne what’s news

screen time SCENE STEALER

THE HEIST Left: John Hurt plays an ex–MI6 agent turned insurance adjuster who plots the recovery of stolen diamonds in SundanceTV’s The Last Panthers. Below: Johan Renck, the show’s director, who has also worked on episodes of acclaimed series including Breaking Bad, Bloodline and The Walking Dead.

Director Johan Renck, 49, approached his latest project, The Last Panthers, which on displ ay premieres April 13 on SundanceTV, with PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST STEALING THE SHOW. classics such as The French Connection in Known for his atmospheric, documentary style, English mind. “I wish I had been born 20 years lensman Jamie Hawkesworth, 28, pivots between art, earlier, so I could have been in the movie After midnight, near Rosewood London. fashion and editorial photography (he is a regular WSJ. business in the 1970s,” he says. The sprawl- Magazine contributor). On April 15, Brooklyn’s Red ing six-episode series opens with a diamond Hook Labs will mount the Suffolk native’s first solo show, heist in Marseille, France, then moves on A Short, Pleasurable Journey, a 51-image selection that to Belgrade, Serbia, and other European includes the portrait above, shot in Scotland’s Shetland locations. The show evokes an Easy Rider– Islands. “I took the train as far north as I could go, to Raging Bull ethos with its attention to character and its visual style: moody, Unst, and this girl, who basically came in last in a pony grainy, nearly black-and-white. “I think for something to be beautiful it has competition, caught my eye,” explains Hawkesworth, who to have some darkness in it, otherwise it’s just pretty. And pretty does not will also give a photography workshop at the gallery on interest me at all,” he says. The Swedish-born Renck’s career trajectory has April 16. It’s the inaugural event in a series that forms part been far from linear. He started out as a musician and photographer, then of Red Hook Labs’ educational outreach, which also funds began directing music videos, commercials and shorts, often collaborating arts programs in Brooklyn schools. “We’re really trying to with brands like Valentino and Cartier. In the past decade, he has added support emerging artists,” says Jimmy Moffat, the gallery’s television shows to his résumé, and a project like Panthers is the kind of work founder. “They might be someone like Jamie or kids he finds most satisfying: “Whenever I’m making a film, it has to be time- here in Red Hook. It’s the diverse mix that’s really exciting.” less,” he explains. “I think you’ll see that with Panthers.” The international redhooklabs.com. —Kristin Tice Studeman cast includes Brits John Hurt and Samantha Morton as insurance adjusters on the case of the missing diamonds, alongside French actor Tahar Rahim as a cop on the robbers’ trail and Croatian star Goran Bogdan, who plays one of the titular thieves, known as the Pink Panthers. “Building a cast is a OPENING HOURS card house. They lean on each other, provide for each other and take from French jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels continues the each other,” says Renck. For the show’s soundtrack, he reached out to David haute joaillerie tradition of hidden watches with Bowie, one of his childhood icons, and asked him to write some original its latest timepiece, the Rubis Secret. Though there’s nothing understated about the cuff—it music. Soon they were working on the title song, “Blackstar,” over Skype. features 115 Mozambique rubies weighing a total Renck also directed Bowie’s last videos, for “Blackstar” and “Lazarus,” of 151.25 carats, flanked by white diamonds—the completed just before the musician’s death in January. Reflecting on that dial is the picture of discretion: It’s revealed only by pressing on select stones, which cause experience, Renck notes, “It was a discombobulating eight-month journey a white-gold drawer to delicately slide open. that ended in quite a cataclysmic way.” —B.F. vancleefarpels.com. —I.F.-S. CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: SKY UK LTD.; MIKAEL JANSSON/TRUNK ARCHIVE; JAMIE HAWKESWORTH; F. MARTIN RAMIN, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS

42 wsj. magazine 44 news what’s The trip cost $12.69. $12.69. cost trip The could be described as “panicked.” as described be could Cities listed in weather app weather in listed Cities place, One Down Dog, that’s for booking classes. booking for that’s Dog, Down One place, the night before. So I rerouted and went right to her house. house. to her right went and Irerouted So before. night the tend to create an expression on my friends’ faces that that faces friends’ my on expression an to create tend Ojai, California; Vineyard Haven, Massachusetts; Massachusetts; Haven, Vineyard California; Ojai, from my friend, saying she’d broken up with her boyfriend boyfriend her with up she’d broken saying friend, my from Savannah, Georgia. Georgia. Savannah, Dom’s, a restaurant in my neighborhood, when I got a call acall Igot when neighborhood, my in arestaurant Dom’s, Most recent Uber ride Uber recent Most app fitness Favorite bedtime before checked app Last morning the in checked app First emails unread of Number biggest ti biggest photo filter:photo i wasting app: don’t have a have don’t bloo M it depends! screen is a is screen picture ofpicture instagra go-to one. blosso backyard. the apple favorite favorite y parents’ My ho My M ing in Me Me Ms Ms M M

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art talk BAY WATCH With the much-anticipated debut of the new San Francisco Museum of Modern Art in May, as well as other key art-world openings, the Bay Area is having a cultural moment.

1 Here are the power players. —Fanny Singer

3 1. 500 CAPP STREET The late conceptual artist David Ireland’s Mission District home, a work of art in its own right, has been carefully preserved—think Donald Judd’s New York loft. As of January, it’s open to the public via scheduled tours. 500cappstreet.org 2. MINNESOTA STREET PROJECT Since 2014, collectors Andy and Deborah Rappaport have been working on this venture aimed at mitigating a threat to the Bay Area art scene: the skyrocketing rents that are forcing many artists and galleries to leave the community. With this vast complex, inaugurated in March, the Rappaports hope to reverse that trend by leasing space for 30 studios and a dozen galleries at well under market rates. minnesotastreetproject .com 3. BAMPFA Early this year, the University of California Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive debuted its new downtown 4 Berkeley location, a 1930s printing facility fitted with a biomorphic addition by Diller Scofidio + Renfro. bampfa .org

4. THE LAB Regularly cited by local artists as one of San Francisco’s most vital cultural spaces, the Lab is a radical venue dedicated to 5 experimental work by performers like Charlemagne Palestine, Ellen Fullman and William Basinski. thelab .org 5. SFMOMA On May 14, after three years of construction and a $610 million investment, the new San Francisco Museum of Modern Art finally opens its doors, revealing a 10-story addition by the architectural firm Snøhetta. The expanded museum, now with 170,000 square feet of gallery space, debuts with a show of 260 pieces from the collection of Gap founders Doris and Donald Fisher. Also on view: 600 works secured through the museum’s ongoing Campaign for Art. sfmoma .org 6. THE WATTIS INSTITUTE With their program of unorthodox shows, director Anthony Huberman and curator Jamie Stevens have established this Potrero Hill kunsthalle-style gallery as the center for 6 contemporary art in the Bay Area. wattis .org

MARKET Jessica Silverman Ratio 3 Altman Siegel Gallery Pace Palo Alto FraenkelLAB Gallery Masked by a blacked- With her up-and-coming On the heels of the An offshoot of respected GROWTH This Tenderloin space out facade, this Mission venue near Union February opening of photography dealer Square, Claudia Altman- Pace Art + Technology, In tandem with the has become one of the District storefront is Fraenkel Gallery, this major institutions most talked-about gal- known for its often- Siegel—a vocal and a showcase for innova- new space is dedicated to above, private galleries leries in San Francisco. eccentric exhibitions: incisive San Francisco tive interdisciplinary experimental art across in the Bay Area are also A recent show of artists pairings such as painter presence—champions work in the South media. Located on Market gaining momentum, from Mexico City’s Suzan Frecon with local talent but also Bay city of Menlo Park, Street, FraenkelLAB as recent start-ups Kurimanzutto gallery textile artist Ruth Laskey works to bring art-world Pace unveils a per- launches this month make their mark and (including Danh Vo and or solo presentations stars, including Edward manent gallery in with the exhibition established names Gabriel Orozco) attests from the likes of sculptor Snowden/Laura Poitras neighboring Palo Alto Home Improvements, branch out with new to Silverman’s rising Mitzi Pederson or the collaborator Trevor this month with a solo curated by filmmaker/ venues for introducing profile.jessicasilverman - legendary Lutz Bacher. Paglen, to a broader audi- show by James Turrell. artist John Waters.

IN SEQUENTIAL ORDER: PHOTO BY HENRIK KAM, MINNESOTACOURTESY STREETOF THE PROJECT;500 CAPPPHOTO STREET BY IWAN FOUNDATION;BAAN, COURTESY COURTESYART OF MUSEUMOF DILLERAND SCOFIDIO PACIFIC FILM+ RENFRO,ARCHIVE EHDD (BAMPFA); AND COURTESYPHOTOUC OFBERKELEY BY THEJOHNNA LAB;ARNOLD, PHOTO COURTESY© HENRIKOF CCA WATTIS KAM,INSTITUTE COURTESY OF SFMOMA; fresh talent. gallery .com ratio3 .org ence. altmansiegel .com pacegallery .com fraenkelgallery .com

wsj. magazine 45 what’s news

accessories report LET IT SLIDE Top of the food chain. And wine chain. Effortless and playful, ladylike slippers pair well with almost any look. Legendary chefs. Coveted reservations. Unmatched sights and culinary delights. For an extra spring in your step, opt for embellished or embroidered styles. And now, let your next discovery be Harvest by Roy Ellamar,

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIAXI YANG & ZHE ZHU where farm-fresh cuisine is celebrated, and simplicity meets sensational.

HOW CHARMING Elegant design elevates flat shoes. Clockwise from middle: Sanayi 313, The Row, Balenciaga, Alumnae and Brother Vellies X Ryan Roche. Fashion editor Laura Stoloff. For details see Sources, page 118. Book at 866.519.7117 or bellagio.com

46 wsj. magazine What’s neWs

employee of the month BAMBOO KING When it comes to vintage bamboo and rattan furniture, Paul Aronson, who houses one of the world’s largest collections, rules the market.

BY M.K. QUINLAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCO ARG ÜELLO

CHAIR PLAY Clockwise from left: Paul Aronson at his store, Bamboo & Rattan, in West Palm Beach, Florida; 1930s rattan furniture from his collection; Aronson’s workbench.

addition to working with the film industry, Aronson supplies antiques and his own custom bamboo and rattan furniture to some of the country’s top-tier designers, including Tom Scheerer, Mario Buatta and Kemble Interiors. HEN SET DECORATOR Bill Cimino was Aronson says. “I work with sticks and twigs.” Scheerer, who travels to Bamboo & Rattan four looking to add old Florida charm to A self-proclaimed hippie, Aronson was kicked times a year, has used Aronson’s work on count- the Rayburn family hotel in the Netflix out of prep school his senior year, traveled across less projects, including the Lyford Cay Club, in the drama Bloodline, back for its second the country on a motorcycle in his 20s and wound Bahamas, and the Jupiter Island Club, in Florida. Wseason in May, he knew the person to call. up in Miami in the late ’70s, building homes during “He’s started to do this incredible thing where he Paul Aronson, the 63-year-old owner of Bamboo the day and running a health food business at night. takes a very ordinary piece of plain American furni- & Rattan in West Palm Beach, Florida, presides over After burning out on “the cocaine and the hot tubs” ture and he embellishes it with split rattan,” Scheerer more than 12,000 square feet of antique bamboo and of Coconut Grove, he moved to Palm Beach and, 18 says. “I’m buying it all up.” Charlene Beaudet, rattan furniture—from the Deco designs of Miami years ago, started selling antiques. Bamboo and rat- Aronson’s fiancée, is the artist behind the decoupage Beach to the stick-reed styles of Martha’s Vineyard. tan, he found out, were his ticket: “As fast as I bought on Aronson’s bespoke backgammon tables as well as “I don’t know of any other place that has such a vari- it, it sold.” the shell embellishments that decorate his custom ety of vintage on that scale in this country, or for Today, Aronson works with 30 pickers across the mirrors and case goods. that matter any place,” Cimino says. “I call him the globe who keep his storefront overflowing. “We’ve Aronson’s collection is not available online, bamboo king.” got so much inventory, we have to pull some of it into which means a trip to West Palm Beach is required. A notoriously brusque character with a fondness the parking lot just to get into the store,” he says. He But browsers beware: Aronson is unusually selec- for cargo shorts, Aronson has followed a path that and his full-time crew of two spend their days care- tive about his clientele, working only with the trade departs dramatically from his roots. Born and raised fully restoring and refinishing antique bamboo and or those with purpose and a checkbook in hand (he in historic Lexington, Massachusetts, Aronson is the rattan from the 1880s through the 1950s. The major- doesn’t accept credit cards). “I’m like a junkyard dog, son of a Yale graduate who worked in the guided mis- ity of the veranda furniture featured in Bloodline is you know?” he says. “I bark at them initially, but if sile division at RCA. “He put satellites into space,” 1920s stick-reed rattan—all courtesy of Aronson. In they get past me, they’re in.”

48 Wsj. magazine fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. april 2016

EXPLORER’S CLUB Replace the tried and tired with layered ensembles inspired by a new spirit of fearless eclecticism.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS LOHR STYLING BY CHARLOTTE COLLET

FACE FORWARD Adopt an intrepid attitude with new shapes. Emporio Armani coat and shorts, CristaSeya shirt, Alexander Wang vest, Creatures of the Wind earrings, Ted Muehling pin and Anndra Neen cuff. Trump International Golf Links® & Hotel, Doonbeg, Ireland. Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards “Top Resorts in Europe” 2014 & 2015 NEW YORK | CENTRAL PARK & SOHO CHICAGO LAS VEGAS WAIKIKI TORONTO PANAMA MIAMI | DORAL IRELAND | DOONBEG

Coming soon WASHINGTON, D.C. VANCOUVER RIO DE JANEIRO INDONESIA | BALI & LIDO TRUMPHOTELS.COM wsj. magazine 51

419357_TR16351_WSJMag_April2016.indd 1 2/25/16 1:37 PM market report

SUIT YOURSELF Be bold by mixing and matching patterns in concordant hues. Céline coat and pants, Dolce & Gabbana dress, Brunello Cucinelli shirt, Lizzie Fortunato earrings, Ted Muehling pin and Bottega Veneta shoes.

52 wsj. magazine market report

LIVING COLOR Show no fear—do the bright thing. Oscar de la Renta dress, Valentino blouse (worn underneath), Anndra Neen rings and Ashley Pittman earrings.

FRESH PRINCESS Dress down a gown with punked-up pieces. Prada top (worn underneath), Burberry dress, Trademark pants, Aurélie Bidermann earring and Bottega Veneta shoes.

54 wsj. magazine market report

OVER UNDER Layering multiple pieces creates a sculptural look. CristaSeya shirt, T by Alexander Wang tank top, Lanvin dress, Etro pants (worn underneath), Lizzie Fortunato earring, Ted Muehling pin and Hermès bracelet.

56 wsj. magazine market report

FRINGE CANDIDATE Take on the urban jungle with an exotic outfit. Valentino jacket and dress (worn underneath), Trademark turtleneck, Lizzie Fortunato earrings, Hermès pendant and Bottega Veneta shoes.

wsj. magazine 57 market report

LASER FOCUS Touches of lace and relaxed proportions make ensemble dressing look modern. Sacai jacket and skirt, Gabriela Hearst coat (worn underneath), Jil Sander hat, Ted Muehling pin (worn on hat) and Creatures of the Wind earrings.

BEST WESTERN Go wild in a feminine silhouette cut in multicolor calfskin. Bally coat, Equipment blouse, Bottega Veneta sweater, Ted Muehling pin (worn on coat) and Lizzie Fortunato earrings. Model, Hye Seung at Elite New York; hair, Tamara McNaughton; makeup, Marla Belt; manicure, Casey Herman; set design, Nick des Jardins. For details see Sources, page 118.

58 wsj. magazine Puerto Rico Special Advertising Feature Gourmet a traveler review Getaway SO PERFECT Nicole D, Texas uerto Rico has an abundance of rich experiences to share with visitors. Everywhere you turn,P there is something magical and memorable. Three hundred beaches Dorado Beach, A Ritz Carlton Reserve, Dorado line the 272 miles of coastline — from dreamy, secluded Gilligan’s Island off the southwest coast to lively Ocean Park in San Juan.

There are luxury resorts, historic treasures and spectacular natural wonders that include the El Yunque rain forest and the Bioluminescent Bay. But there’s one more “s” Casinos to add to the traditional mix of sun, sand and sights: savor. Condado Vanderbilt Hotel, San Juan St. Regis Bahía Beach Resort, Río Grande Puerto Rico’s culinary scene is robust, experimental and world-renowned. And if you’ve been there just once, you’ll know why it has been dubbed the “gastronomic capital of the Caribbean.” PUERTO RICO'S LUXURY PARADISE IS WAITING FOR YOU. Locals say it’s hard to beat the mofongo — a tradi- The All Star Island's luxury hotels offer the best of all worlds: breathtaking natural beauty combined with five star services tional dish of fried green plantains mashed with garlic — at and amenities that care for your every need, plus our many world-class attractions ready for you to explore. Mojito’s in Old San Juan. (True to its name, the drinks get high marks, too.) If you’re staying in the hotel-filled • Award winning beaches perfect for relaxing or enjoying your favorite water sport Condado District, sleek, sculptural Pikayo offers sophisti- • Historic and unique Old San Juan, with structures that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites cated contemporary global flavors crafted by celebuchef • 3 of the world's 6 bioluminescent bays are in Puerto Rico • El Yunque, the only tropical rainforest in the United States Forest System Wilo Benet. Set in a modern three-story mansion that • Over 20 world class golf courses with spectacular views COURTESY OF PUERTO RICO just screams “in crowd,” Oceano serves up a seafood-rich • Unique dining experiences from renowned chefs like José Andrés menu with a tropical edge — plus a beachfront setting and Jean-Georges Vongerichten to local stars like Mario Pagán and Wilo Benet that’s hard to rival. • A vibrant and music-filled nightlife There’s never an offseason for foodie adventures in San Juan, but in spring, the best in cuisine takes center Come to Puerto Rico and live your own five star vacation story. stage at Saborea Puerto Rico: A Culinary Extravaganza. Held at Escambrón Beach April 7-10, the four-day event features tastings, demonstrations and chef’s tables from 30 of the island’s top restaurants each day, along with rum, wine, beer, distilled spirits and a cadre of international Escape the cold and come to Puerto Rico, the All-Star Island. Puerto Rico offers a wide variety of world-class attractions to escape the cold temperatures. culinary personalities. For more information, please call (800) 866-7827 or visit seepuertorico.com

VISIT SEEPUERTORICO.COM See Puerto Rico @PRTourismCo SeePuertoRico AND BOOK YOUR VACATION TODAY. leading the conversation the exchange. april 2016

BLUE CRUSH Sarah Lavoine at her tracked office on Paris’s rue Saint-Honoré. “I don’t design interiors to be photographed,” she says. “I want them to SARAH be comfortable.” LAVOI N E A mixture of contemporary and traditional style is this French interior designer’s signature.

BY REBECCA VOIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY BY YOUNG-AH KIM

NE GRAY MORNING in Paris, a crackling fire - place makes Sarah Lavoine’s apartment feel more like a cozy country house than the res- idence of an in-demand interior designer. In Ofact, Lavoine, 43, moved in last week; this is the latest in a string of Saint-Honoré–area apartments for her. It already feels lived in: Family photos are propped against walls, and her son Roman, 8, is hoverboarding over the parquet. “I don’t like total looks. You have to be daring. If a green mirror doesn’t work, don’t hesi- tate to paint it white,” she says. Lavoine has called Saint-Honoré—in the heart of Paris’s Right Bank—home since she married French singer Marc Lavoine almost 21 years ago. Just upstairs is her office, on the same floor where her 18-year- old daughter, Yasmine, has her own place. There’s another, larger office down the street. Roman and Milo, Lavoine’s 5-year-old son, attend school within “First Republic knows how to work with family-owned walking distance, and many of her close friends, like French Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt, work nearby. businesses. Th ey remove all of the stressors so I can Around the corner from Colette, one of her favorite local shops, is Lavoine’s latest project, the Le Roch Hotel & Spa, which is set to open this spring. focus on my business.” A year after lycée, at 19, Lavoine left France to study acting with Lee Strasberg in New York City. Back home EARL “BUTCH” GRAVES, JR. a couple of years later, she interned with her mother, interior designer Sabine Marchal. “Learning on the President and CEO, Black Enterprise job was the best school,” says Lavoine, who also inher- ited her creative eye from her father, Jean Poniatowski, who headed French Vogue from 1981 to 1995. Since launching her own firm in 2002, Lavoine has opened two Parisian stores and produced a range of home furnishings; she now employs a team of 20. She also designs a collection for French porcelain house Bernardaud, which is featured at Barneys New York. (Also on her docket is the future headquar- ters of L’Oréal Luxe; a new home furnishings shop for Printemps department store; and the upcoming English edition of her second book on style, Chez Moi: Decorating Your Home and Living Like a Parisienne.) “Every assignment is different. You have to adapt,” she says. “I love adapting to my clients. My job is to make people happy and to help them live well.” > (855) 886-4824 or visit www.fi rstrepublic.com New York Stock Exchange Symbol: FRC Member FDIC and Equal Housing Lender wsj. magazine 63 the exchange tracked

9:00 a.m. 13 Coffee and catching up on calls in her new apartment, while sons Roman moves and Milo prepare for tennis lessons. in the past 20 years, all within Paris’s Saint-Honoré neighborhood. 500 vinyl records Played mostly by Lavoine’s husband, Marc, whose first hit album was in 1985. 1 statue outside the Louvre of Lavoine’s ancestor Prince Józef Antoni Poniatowski, a Polish leader whom Napo- 11:15 a.m. leon named a Marshal of the French Empire. Lavoine visits the site of her latest project, the 37-room Le Roch Hotel & Spa in the first 10:03 a.m. arrondissement, set to open A color meeting with this spring. 322 the design team. emails received on a recent day—not unusual for the very busy Lavoine. 1:25 p.m. Lavoine’s store on Saint- Roch offers furniture, lighting and porcelain. 240 framed works by the French artist Fabrice Hyber in Lavoine’s office and country house. 924 gallons of paint used on job sites over the past year.

2:10 p.m. 4 Edouard Renevier, sales director iPhones for her brand, checks in at her casual, purchased per year. “Between calls, text book-lined office. messages, emails and Instagram, I use them up very quickly,” she says. 6:00 p.m. Lavoine enjoys an after-work aperitif at Le Nemours, a Palais-Royal favorite. 1 month The amount of time she dated Marc before they got engaged; they’ve been married for almost 21 years. 3:10 p.m. Under the circus tent with her husband, Marc, 50,000+ for the Bonpoint fall 2016 fashion show, in miles traveled which her sons, Roman last year, for work and family trips to loca- and Milo, modeled. tions including Tulum and Marrakech. •

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TRC_WSJ_APR16_Shadow.indd 1 2/26/16 11:03 AM the exchange

gallerist who is pained to part with the treasures his artists create. “If I had been born wealthy, I would have been an amazing collector,” he laments. Instead, he has used that mentality to assemble an influential roster of contemporary artists. “If I walk into a studio and I want to own it all, it’s a no-brainer,” he says of the way he assesses new talent. “Then I can make a commitment right there on the spot.” Shainman’s reputation rests on his stellar artists of African heritage, including Sidibé and El Anatsui, a Ghanaian who was the recipient of the 2015 Venice Biennale Golden Lion for lifetime achievement, as well as acclaimed American artists Kerry James Marshall, Carrie Mae Weems, Nick Cave, Barkley L. Hendricks, Hank Willis Thomas and Titus Kaphar. But a closer look at his stable also reveals artists from countries including India, Cuba, Italy, Iraq and Israel. Such a multicultural approach has become fashionable of late, but it’s one that Shainman has been onto for decades. The strategy is now paying off: Shainman has been successful at helping land prestigious museum shows for his artists, including a Marshall retrospective that opens this month WORK IN PROGRESS at the Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago, and “I don’t think we said, ‘Let’s travels to New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art in represent black people because October. Shainman has also persevered in getting his we can sell a lot.’ You have to love the work first,” says artists their due in the market. He has, for example, gallerist Jack Shainman, presided over a staggering jump in Anatsui’s prices— photographed at his exhibition from $45,000 to $1.1 million for roughly equivalent space in upstate New York. pieces. His larger sculptures are priced as high as $3.5 million. If there is a thread running through Shainman’s gallery, it is that his artists are outspokenly political. They are not content to diddle with inside upstart baseball–style conceptual minutiae. Deborah Luster, for instance, is a New Orleans–based photographer whose long-term projects explore a culture of THE ART OF THE DEALER violence and imprisonment. Thomas’s conceptual art has dealt with the murder of his cousin and the Gallerist Jack Shainman doesn’t shy away from working with artists depiction of race and gender in advertising. Lynette who address difficult topics. Today his chutzpah is paying off—both Yiadom-Boakye’s paintings of fictional figures are often taken as political statements simply by dint of in market prices and recognition from curators and museums. her subjects’ blackness. “His artists tend toward engaging social and cul- BY JULIE L. BELCOVE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GEORDIE WOOD tural issues,” says Trevor Schoonmaker, chief curator at Duke University’s Nasher Museum of Art. Or, as Kaphar, whose technically impressive paintings address mass incarceration—including the impris- N 2002, NEW YORK GALLERIST Jack Shainman The officers, more concerned with the tourists onment of his own father—puts it, “If you just make traveled to Mali to visit Malick Sidibé, an art- trying to board with deadly sharp souvenir swords, pretty pictures, I don’t think this gallery is for you.” ist celebrated for his photographs of daily life in waved them on. Today, sitting on a sofa in his West the West African nation. Shainman and his busi- 20th Street gallery, Shainman lets out a howl of HAINMAN’S INTEREST IN socially relevant Iness partner at the time, Claude Simard, left Sidibé’s laughter at the absurdity of a post-9/11 world. Then material has its roots in his own early, short- Bamako studio with 150 prints in glass frames, which he comes to the real point of the anecdote: After he lived attempts at sculpture. “From the very they carefully packed in their carry-ons for the trip unpacked the photographs and arranged them in his beginning I struggled with wanting to make home. Out on the airport runway in the glare of spot- Chelsea apartment, his friend Vince Aletti, a pho- Ssignificant work that meant something,” he says, lights, security officers became suspicious of the odd tography critic, dropped by and was smitten. “ ‘How “and I always liked other people’s work more.” contents of the two men’s luggage. Shainman recalls much are they?’ ” Shainman recalls Aletti asking. As he scarfs down a falafel in his office at The trying to placate them: “We love Malick, and we’re “And I remember telling him, ‘Nothing’s for sale.’ At School, the 30,000-square-foot exhibition space going to do a show,” he explained, to which he says the the time, I thought, I’ve got to keep these all.” he founded in Kinderhook, in upstate New York, baffled officers replied, “But you could cut the pilot’s The art world is littered with collectors who are Shainman talks about his childhood. He grew up in throat with these frames.” He and Simard replied, in truth poorly disguised dealers, as eager to make the ’60s and ’70s in Williamstown, Massachusetts, “ ‘We’d never do that because we wouldn’t want to a quick buck off a painting as a stock or a condo. But where his father was a music professor at Williams damage the photographs.’ ” Shainman, who is in his 50s, is the rare opposite: a College and co-founder of the Williamstown >

66 wsj. magazine the exchange upstart Spring 2016

They combed Europe for talent. But, consciously Marshall says. “He approaches the gallery like a or not, their gaze began to shift, and their defini- humanities project.” tion of international grew to include oft-overlooked Shainman comes across like an overgrown kid, regions like Africa and the Middle East. Then, in the giddy to have been set loose in an amusement park. early ’90s, Shainman was on a studio visit when he Nevertheless, the gallery is a commercial venture. April 19 – May 29 saw a postcard of a Kerry James Marshall painting. “We’ve really had to build our artists’ careers our- He’d never heard of him, but for Shainman, Marshall’s selves, which I’m actually very proud of, because a flat, folk-arty aesthetic was lot of the big galleries don’t love at first sight. “I never saw do that,” Shainman says, anything like it, and that’s “jack since their capital and power the quest,” he says. He flew approaches the enable them to lure artists who to Chicago and met Marshall gallery like already have thriving markets. at Harry Caray’s. Shainman “Sometimes I think they don’t had to “do my cheerleading” a humanities know how.” to persuade him to do a show. project.” The gallery withstood the Just three of Marshall’s paint- –kerry james marshall art crash of the early 1990s— ings from his debut sold—two barely—as did Shainman and to museums and one to a col- Simard’s business partner- lector—for about $7,500 each. A new work by the ship, though their romantic relationship did not. artist can now go for as much as $1 million, and Then, in 1994, Shainman and Spanish artist Carlos there’s a waiting list. “For Kerry and most of my Vega met at a Chicago art fair where Vega was work- artists, even though [the work] might focus on the ing as an art handler. “I was the first gallery to bring African-American experience, it transcends that a cordless drill, and Carlos came to ask if he could use subject,” he says. “I think a lot of my clients, what- my drill,” Shainman recounts. They became a couple ever color and religion they are, can relate. There are the following year, and it was Simard who suggested Theatre Festival. The younger Shainman played pic- universal themes.” Vega join the gallery in 2000. (Simard died in 2014. colo, flute and violin but preferred riding horses. At Marshall credits Shainman’s childhood in an Shainman keeps a small shrine to him, with favorite age 12 or 13, he got a bargain on an old racehorse. “My academic setting for his broad-minded, intellectual objets and fresh flowers, on view at The School.) parents were like, ‘We got the wrong kid. Jews don’t bent. “On college campuses, things are worth talk- Meanwhile, more artists of African descent were ride,’ ” he says. His other favorite pastime was hanging about whether they have monetary value or not,” coming into the fold. Zwelethu Mthethwa, a Cape > ing out at Williamstown’s Clark Art Institute, where he was enthralled with the centuries-old Madonnas, martyrs and other Catholic iconography. As a pre- CLASS ACTION teen, he was already buying artworks from Williams Shainman converted a former students. Traveling around Europe on his father’s schoolhouse into The School, sabbaticals sparked his wanderlust. a free exhibition space, in 2014. Since then, he has shown After a gap year spent riding, Shainman headed everything from Black Panther to American University in Washington, D.C.; he documents to works by Ghanaian graduated in the early 1980s and went to work for artist El Anatsui (above left). local gallerist Ramon Osuna. In 1984, he moved to Provincetown, Massachusetts, to start a gallery for some friends. In the process, he met Simard, a French-Canadian painter. The two became partners in life and business, returning to Washington to open Jack Shainman Gallery later that year. Together, they zeroed in on the artists they wanted, but while Simard toiled in his own studio, Shainman handled the day-to-day. “We were very ambitious, and we wanted to be con- tenders,” Shainman says. To get the attention of even Washington museums, they quickly realized they needed to be in New York. In 1986, the duo opened a gallery in the East Village, and when it took off, they closed the Washington one. They later decamped for SoHo and, eventually, Chelsea. With most of their wish-list U.S. artists spoken for, Shainman and Simard built the business by introducing European artists to the American market. In 1989 they gave now-lauded German sculptor Isa Genzken her first New York solo show. “Often we’d be eating ramen noodles but buying work,” Shainman recalls of the lean years. “We ended up buying one of [Genzken’s] major tabletop pieces in the show, paying it off over time.”

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ON MESSAGE “If you just make pretty pictures, I don’t think YOU YOU BECAME MAMMIE, MAMA, MOTHER, THEN, YES, CONFIDANT-HA/DESCENDING THE THRONE YOU this is the gallery for you,” says artist Titus Kaphar. Clockwise from top left: Bab El Sheikh, by Iraqi artist Hayv Kahraman; a diptych by Carrie Mae Weems; a 1969 Malick Madison Avenue, the largest ﬁ ne timepiece marketplace in North America, invites you to Sidibé photograph; a 2012 piece by Richard

experience Haute Horlogerie during the 6th Annual Madison Avenue Watch Week. , CIRCA 1969, GELATIN SILVER PRINT, © MALICK SIDIBÉ, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; Mosse depicting a Congo conflict zone; one of Nick Cave’s costume-like Collectors and connoisseurs will have the opportunity to become immersed in the artistry and Soundsuit pieces. craftsmanship of exceptional timepieces, many on view for the ﬁ rst time in America. Visit MadisonAvenueWatchWeek.com for the calendar of timepiece premieres, Town, South Africa–based photographer whose favor of predominantly white galleries. Shainman now runs two spaces in Chelsea, but instead of joining his peers’ frenetic expansion to exhibitions, artisan demonstrations and in-store events. powerful portraits consider various black identi- In 1999, Shainman found himself yearning for A CÔTÉ DE LA BOÎTE À MUSIQUES ties, joined in 2000, followed in 2001 by Claudette the rural life of his youth. After a 19-year hiatus, he London, Los Angeles, Berlin and China, he opened Schreuders, a white South African sculptor whose wanted to ride horses again. So he bought a farm in The School, so named because it’s in a stately old work takes on the post-apartheid era from a differ- Stuyvesant, New York. Now his 200-year-old barn is public school, not far from his farm. He had initially ent perspective. In the immediate aftermath of 9/11, filled with dozens of ribbons won on the jumper cir - thought of using it as an art bunker but decided the Shainman recalls, “I kind of thought it was over, cuit. The farmhouse is sparsely furnished, leaving art should be seen, not hidden in storage. It’s now A. LANGE & SÖHNE DIESEL JAEGER-LECOULTRE there was going to be a whole new way of living. At both a destination for city folk and a source of local first, business just stopped completely. I didn’t know pride. This summer will feature a suite of four solo ASPREY FABERGÉ MONTBLANC if people would be interested in art again.” “if i walk into a shows, including one of Richard Mosse, an Irishman He took a leap of faith and went after Sidibé. studio and i want who makes haunting photographs of war zones. CHOPARD F.P. JOURNE PANERAI What followed was a domino effect as the art mar- to own it all, Shainman’s business has retained a familial feel. ket started to recover. Kaphar, for instance, became Luster recalls how, after her 2004 debut at the gal- DE GRISOGONO HUBLOT VACHERON CONSTANTIN , 2012, DOGWOOD TWIGS, WIRE, UPHOLSTERY, AND MANNEQUIN, © NICK CAVE, PHOTO BY JAMES PRINZ, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN awareGALLERY, NEW YORK of Shainman while a Yale grad student in the it’s a no-Brainer.” lery, the back-to-back traumas of Hurricane Katrina , 2012, DIGITAL C-PRINT, THE ALFOND COLLECTION OF CONTEMPORARY ART, CORNELL FINE ARTS MUSEUM AT ROLLINS COLLEGE, WINTER PARK, FLORIDA, © RICHARD MOSSE, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND

, 2013, OIL ON WOOD, © HAYV KAHRAMAN, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; early aughts. “We had a route of galleries we used to –jack shainman and divorce meant that she did not show again for FROM HERE I SAW WHAT HAPPENED…AND I CRIED SERIES, 1995–96, C-PRINT WITH SANDBLASTED TEXT, COLLECTION OF IRIS & B. GERALD CANTOR CENTER FOR VISUAL ARTS, STANFORD UNIVERSITY, CALIFORNIA, © check out,” he says. “Jack was at the top of my list for seven years. “A lot of galleries would push you to SOUNDSUIT sure. Kerry James Marshall, El, Barkley—these are the side,” she says. “Jack called and said, ‘Whenever the artists who inspired me to start painting.” room for mini installations of his personal collec- you’re ready, we’re here for you.’ When I told that to , FROM THE BAB EL SHEIKH Still, Shainman thinks the diversity of the gallery’s tion: Fred Sandback’s simple strand of yarn cutting people in the art world, they were agog.” roster gets too much attention, probably because the across a corner here, a group of Catholic statuary Whether artists or collectors, “people trust him,” majority of other galleries have so few artists of color. there, plus works by Picasso, Dubuffet, Jennifer adds Thomas. “Jack’s a mensch.” “I don’t think we said, ‘Let’s represent black people Bartlett, Ellen Gallagher, Man Ray and on and on. Shainman tries to downplay the nice-guy reputation because we can sell a lot,’ ” he says. “You have to love “Early on, somebody wrote an article saying I had in a gallery world he likens to a river teeming with pira- the work first.” While many black artists want their very catholic taste. I thought, How did they know nha. “Maybe that’s not good for my brand,” he frets. work seen in the context of the program Shainman that?—not knowing what catholic taste was,” he “Sometimes people think if you’re nice, you’re a push- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BECAME FOOT SOLDIER & COOK CARRIE MAE WEEMS, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; JACK JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; ATTACK, ATTACK, VIRUNGA NATIONAL PARK, NORTH KIVU has built, a few have declined his representation in says with a laugh. over. Let them think I’m cutthroat.” • madisonavenuewatchweek.com

wsj. magazine 69

food network THE IÑAKI EFFECT On the 10th anniversary of its opening in Paris, the renowned restaurant Le Chateaubriand—led by the pioneering chef Iñaki Aizpitarte—remains in a category all its own.

BY TARAJIA MORRELL

43, of Le Chateaubriand, which East Side, where chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von opened in April 2006 in a modest Hauske serve an ambitious and ever-changing six- space that had housed a bistro of course prix fixe menu for $67, with Wildair, their more the same name for a century. At informal restaurant and wine bar, two doors down. the beginning, Aizpitarte offered As he’s led the new new wave of French dining, a menu (appetizer, entrée, des- Aizpitarte’s individuality as a chef has endured and sert) for the equivalent of $18 at earned him a special status in the culinary world. lunch and $46 at dinner. (Now the “There’s nowhere quite like Le Chateaubriand,” says restaurant serves eight courses, chef Stone of Contra. “On any given night, you never which change daily, for about know what’s going to happen next.” This capricious- $77.) While tourists were busy ness is indisputably Le Chateaubriand’s trademark trying to secure reservations at and greatest charm. It’s also what makes the restau- Paris’s starred staples, such as rant difficult to categorize. Though Michelin has yet Tour d’Argent, L’Atelier de Joël to award it a star, in 2010 Le Chateaubriand landed Robuchon and Le Grand Véfour, at No. 11 on S. Pellegrino’s list of the World’s 50 Best savvy diners could sample Le Restaurants (voted on by a panel of chefs, restau- Chateaubriand’s inventive, vege- rateurs, journalists and gourmets), ranking above table-centric dishes for a fraction any other French restaurant—signaling shifting of the price in a convivial dining tides in French gastronomy and infuriating some room. Preeminent French chef traditionalists along the way. “Michelin will never Alain Ducasse, who has 23 res- give Le Chateaubriand a star,” says François-Régis taurants and 19 Michelin stars, Gaudry, French food expert and critic for L’Ex press, puts it this way: “Going to a res- “because it’s too unpredictable; its essence and its taurant should be more than chef are too wild.” DECADE AGO, a burgeoning group of Parisian just good food; it should be an experience, and Iñaki This inherent wildness is apparent in Aizpitarte’s work cooking. He eventually found footholds in cuisine. When Aizpitarte was given the freedom and FOOD FOR THOUGHT foodies eagerly awaited the opening of delivers an experience. He is the creator of the ‘neo- unlikely start. Born the youngest of five to Basque several Parisian restaurants, most notably Le Café stage on which to experiment, diners and journal- Above: Seasonal ingredients served by Iñaki Aizpitarte at his Paris restaurant, Le Chateaubriand, which celebrates Le Chateaubriand, chef Iñaki Aizpitarte’s bistro’—the contemporary restaurant of Paris.” parents living in the south of France, Aizpitarte grew des Délices under Michelin-starred chef Gilles ists began to take note of his uninhibited talent. “He its 10th anniversary this month. Opposite: Chef Aizpitarte. neo-bistro in the 11th arrondissement. This Now, 10 years later, it’s impossible not to notice up listening to punk and rock music and struggled Choukroun, where he stayed for two years as a chef de has an artist’s spirit,” says co-owner Patrick Samot. Anouvelle garde of diners had come of age as the “bis- the effect Le Chateaubriand and its maker have had to find professional direction. He was curious about partie before traveling again—this time to Mexico, “Nothing was impossible; there were no limits. tronomy” movement took hold—when chefs such on Parisian dining, where beloved restaurants such oenology but repelled by the formality of the field’s Brazil and Spain. Iñaki’s food was brutal, intense, perhaps not always French home-style cooking. Rather, his food has that as Yves Camdeborde at La Régalade and Stéphane as Septime and Saturne (both of which have gar- traditional course of study. A foray in garden design When he returned to Paris in the early 2000s, something we liked. But a taste of his dishes was a rare trait of being familiar and entirely original. Jégo at L’Ami Jean abandoned the more formal res- nered Michelin recognition)—as well as Au Passage, also left him ambivalent. Aizpitarte always fanta- he felt ready to helm a kitchen. “I found two young genuine experience.” On a recent evening, Aizpitarte serves what he taurant model in favor of a relaxed atmosphere and Spring, Le Servan and Frenchie—grew up in the path sized about a career in the kitchen, but without the guys—one was in advertising and one was an actor,” Two years at La Famille gave Aizpitarte the describes as “carbonara of the sea”: a warm slice affordable prices. It was one of the greatest shifts Le Chateaubriand carved out. In 2010, Aizpitarte funds for one of France’s top culinary schools, he Aizpitarte says. “They didn’t know anything about confidence and connections to open his own place of John Dory with mussel jus mounted with but- in French gastronomy since haute cuisine codified opened Le Dauphin, a mirrored and marbled Rem didn’t see how it could become a reality. When he restaurant or food service, but I liked that.” Patrick and to build the momentum necessary to make Le ter, pickled shallots, lemon thyme and strands coursing and service in the early 20th century. These Koolhaas–designed space next door to accommodate was 27, Aizpitarte traveled to Tel Aviv in the hopes and Yannig Samot were cousins who needed a chef Chateaubriand an instant success. It was during of al dente potato that are his hint at spaghetti. diners, led by French journalists, were abuzz with Le Chateaubriand’s overflow. There he serves natural that he might find kitchen work and landed a job as for their first restaurant project, which they envi- this time that he met Fred Peneau, with whom he’d This is Aizpitarte’s signature: his playfulness, anticipation about what Aizpitarte, the scruffy, punk wines and à la carte tapas-style dishes that speak to a dishwasher at a kosher restaurant. Soon he was sioned as a place with great food that they’d actually open the restaurant. “I didn’t think about creative self-assurance and unwillingness to pander to expec- music–devoted Basque chef, would do at his first his Basque roots. One door down, he also opened Le working the line. “I had wanted to cook for a long enjoy hanging out in—an elusive concept in Paris food, about cuisine d’auteur,” Aizpitarte says. “I was tations of what French cuisine should be. restaurant. Excitement stemmed not only from Le Cave, a natural wine shop. The restaurateurs behind time,” Aizpitarte recalls. “From the first day I real- at this time. With Aizpitarte, in 2003, they opened always in love with old restaurants in Paris, and In February, when the 2016 Michelin stars were Chateaubriand’s launching in an area then bereft of Saturne and Septime followed suit by opening Clown ized it was the right path for me.” La Famille, an unpretentious and avant-garde res- I always dreamt of one day opening a restaurant in a announced, Saturne, led by chef Sven Chartier, dining options, but also from Aizpitarte’s unortho - Bar and Clamato, more-casual neighboring spinoffs of After learning the basics and poring over bor- taurant in Montmartre, where they served what Parisian bistro.” But Aizpitarte’s culinary vision of received its first. Aizpitarte’s reaction was charac- dox training and accessible food. their own. Aizpitarte’s influence is also evident state- rowed cookbooks from the local Alliance Française, Aizpitarte describes as “a different proposition of ever-evolving experimentation with ingredients and teristically laconic and untroubled: “C’est normal,”

“It was never a concept restaurant,” says Aizpitarte, side in restaurants like Contra on New York’s Lower Aizpitarte returned to Paris, determined to find DAMIEN LAFARGUE (PORTRAIT AND FOOD) Parisian paysage food,” or a new take on the city’s techniques didn’t—and doesn’t—fit the bistro mold of he says. “I think there is space for everyone.” •

70 wsj. magazine Oasis sofa, $1599; Portica cocktail table, $409. roomandboard.com

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Polo Ralph Lauren tank top, Ralph Lauren Collection pants, Gabriela Artigas & Company double necklace and Solange Azagury-Partridge bangle. AMERICAN MADE SINCE 1980 Away We Go Pack a bag and escape to St. Barthélemy, where commutes happen on the back of a Moke, the only deadline is the sunset and there’s nothing more to worry about than which carefree look to choose.

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77 COASTING ALONG Bikinis and button-downs are the ideal holiday uniform. Chanel jacket and She Made Me swimsuit. Opposite: Céline top, Onia bikini bottom and stylist’s own bangle. LIFE’S A BEACH A hit of white looks relaxed but elegant. Maryam Nassir Zadeh swimsuit, Chloé shorts and Solange Azagury-Partridge bangle. Opposite: Louis Vuitton blouse, Isabel Marant briefs, Aurélie Bidermann bangle (top) and Solange Azagury- Partridge bangle (bottom).

81 STAR VEHICLE Cover up with a utilitarian top or an unfussy white tank. Versace jacket, Eres bikini top and Onia bikini bottom. Opposite: Polo Ralph Lauren tank top and Gabriela Artigas & Company double necklace. ISLAND TIME Go off the beaten path in slip-on booties. Simon Miller jacket, Courrèges bodysuit, Solange Azagury-Partridge bangle and Paco Rabanne boots. Opposite: Prada jacket, Frame bikini bottom and Paco Rabanne boots. JUST A SPLASH Well-worn denim pairs perfectly with sun-kissed skin. Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane skirt, Louis Vuitton necklace, Solange Azagury-Partridge ring and photographer’s own bandanna (worn around wrist). Opposite: Marc Jacobs jacket, Bottega Veneta shorts and Paco Rabanne boots. Model, Edita Vilkeviciute at DNA Model Management; makeup, Frank B.; hair, Esther Langham. For details see Sources, page 118.

86 GAME OF THERON With a starring role in this month’s The Huntsman: Winter’s War, Charlize Theron opens up about motherhood (for the second time) and making peace with her past (romantic and otherwise).

BY ALEX BHATTACHARJI PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH OLINS STYLING BY CLARE RICHARDSON N A COLD LATE-JANUARY morning in a dissolute former prom queen with trichotillomania peatedly jokes that she’d be out hitting the town Budapest, a shaft of sunlight streams (obsessive hair pulling) in Young Adult. For Mad Max, if only she could film the scene in English, but in through a window in the stately din- Theron decided her character, Imperator Furiosa, fact she’s never been one to take the path of least ing room of the art nouveau Gresham needed a buzz cut to go with her steam-punk pros- resistance. After landing her first speaking role, in Palace Hotel, illuminating Charlize thetic arm. 1996’s 2 Days in the Valley, Theron found herself on Theron. Her face contorts into a In the new film, Emily Blunt, who plays Ravenna’s billboards towering over Sunset Boulevard in white Ogrimace as she stretches her oatmeal-encrusted sister, the Ice Queen, pointedly asks, “Mirror, mir- lingerie. Wary of being pigeonholed, she passed on forearm across the table, offering a spoon to an indif- ror on the wall, who’s the most powerful of them babe part after babe part. “I wasn’t just thinking ferent infant, while simultaneously turning her head all?” When I ask Blunt to answer, she laughs. “That’s about the longevity of my career, it was that I wanted to anxiously scan the room. Then she dips to look not even a fair question. Did Charlize ask you to ask to explore different things,” she says. “I became under the table, where she finds her 4-year-old son, me that?” Nevertheless, it is fair to say that, among aware I could build a career that would be more sat- Jackson, playing with a handful of Cheerios. “Don’t women in Hollywood, Theron would be on anyone’s isfying to me by saying no.” scare me like that!” she says to the boy, his face hid- shortlist. Before she signed on to The Huntsman She said no a lot and heard it just as often. “I was den under a baseball cap with a faux braided red sequel, she insisted on getting the same pay as her auditioning for a lot of stuff where they thought I was ponytail flowing behind (a Princess Anna hat; he’s a co-star from the first film, Chris Hemsworth. “Look, too pretty,” she says, still irked. “Devil’s Advocate huge fan of Frozen). “You need to sit at the table and when I saw that Jennifer Lawrence made what she was probably the hardest—they put me through the eat breakfast like a big boy.” She taps his seat. “Sit. made in comparison to Bradley Cooper, I was defi- wringer. And Taylor [Hackford, the director] just On. Your. Chair.” nitely shocked,” Theron says, referring to the gender wasn’t convinced. He was like, ‘If you were his wife, When she looks up, her daughter, August, less wage disparity of American Hustle, one of the more why would he cheat on you?’ And I was like, ‘What than a year old, is yanking on her own hair, leaving eye-opening revelations from the Sony email hack. does that even mean?’ ” a string of oatmeal lumps in her thick, curly locks. “The way people have been writing about it, it sounds Theron says she “sucks” at auditioning, which is Theron closes her eyes, rolls her head back and lets like the Sony hack was what motivated me. My feel- why she often feels compelled to chase down direc- out a low guttural noise. The waiter takes a nervous ing would have still been, If we’re going to do it again, tors for the roles she wants. Jason Reitman, who step toward the table. But the sound that emerges shouldn’t we start on equal footing? Because, trust directed Theron in Young Adult, remembers being is not a cry of exasperation. Instead Theron lets out me, we weren’t on equal footing there.” cornered. “She stopped me at the Academy Awards a roaring, soaring laugh. “Don’t pull your hair out, Decorum dictates that stars never discuss sala- in 2010 and picked me out of a lineup and said, baby,” she coos. “You’re far too young to pull out ries on set (and Universal Pictures, distributor of ‘We’ve got to work together,’ ” the Oscar-nominated your hair.” She beams radiantly and playfully taps The Huntsman, declined to comment), but Theron’s director recalls. “It took a moment for me to pro - August’s nose. “Do you want a bath? Do you?” assertiveness made an impression on her cast mates. cess: Wait, Charlize Theron is talking to me right If this off-duty version of the Hollywood star—her “Charlize knows what she deserves. She wasn’t now?” A year later, she threw her producing weight hair pulled back under a cashmere cap, and wear- afraid to ask for it—or to work for it. Everything behind Young Adult to get it made and threw herself ing faded jeans, a down vest, black suede boots and she gets, she’s earned,” says Blunt, who found that into one of her most unlikable characters. no makeup—is unguarded, it may be because she’s Theron’s direct approach carried over to her perfor- Similarly, Theron agreed to do a dance number too tired to check her emotions. In Budapest to film mance. “Charlize is the most self-possessed person. at the 2013 Oscars hosted by Seth MacFarlane as a the glasnost-era spy thriller The Coldest City, the She doesn’t baby you—she treats you like a grown- ploy to get him to cast her in A Million Ways to Die in 40-year-old South African has been working nonstop up. And after the take, she tells you the dirtiest of the West (“Such a dick move,” she says); she sought for the past three months, a demanding schedule set dirty jokes.” out the notoriously elusive David Fincher to pitch by a most unforgiving producer (herself). Theron and Blunt immediately took to their roles him an idea that turned into Mindhunter, a Netflix There’s no Wi-Fi on set, and by the time Theron as wicked sisters and likewise bonded with Jessica series the two are co-producing; and she called in returns to the hotel to put the kids to bed—particu- Chastain, who plays a warrior fighting alongside favors, pulled strings—“did whatever I could”—to larly after fight scenes involving her character, a Hemsworth. “Emily’s funny. Jessica’s funny. Chris is get the lunch meeting that landed her in Mad Max: British MI6 agent—she’s ready to crash. As a result, pretty. He pret-ty,” Theron jokes. “He’s actually really Fury Road. The film’s director, George Miller, says she’s been living in something of a news and cultural f—ing funny. I’ve had moments with him where I peed he thought he was there to pitch her on the part. “I vacuum, starved for updates on the #OscarsSoWhite a little bit—that funny.” could only think of her for the role,” he says. controversy, Leonardo DiCaprio’s performance in The atmosphere on set went beyond collegial to Playing Furiosa was a huge leap of faith for The Revenant (“Is Leo great? Oh, tell me, tell me!”) familial, with Hemsworth’s three kids and Jackson Theron. “I don’t think I had doubts, but I had fears,” or what’s transpiring at the World Economic Forum running around the soundstage together. “I remem- she says. “I chased after it so hard, just based in Davos, Switzerland, where DiCaprio is being hon- ber Jax watched Charlize do a take, a scene where on storyboards”—there was no script. “I never ored for his work on climate change and where she she had to be a real bitch,” Blunt recalls, “and he said, doubted George’s idea, but I had a lot of fear that I addressed world leaders about AIDS prevention ‘Mumma spicy.’ I love that. So perfect. That’s what I was never going to be able to do what he wanted or in 2013. She is, she admits, a woman in a bubble. called her. Mumma Spicy.” needed, because I had so little to work with.” Filming “Actually, you could really f— with me right now. I’d involved nine months of near-continuous, highly be like, ‘Really? That happened?’ ” HERON’S RELENTLESS schedule in choreographed action scenes, as well as clashes with This month, we’ll see Theron reprise a familiar Budapest comes after a period of great her co-star, Tom Hardy, the talented and tormented role, as the evil queen Ravenna in The Huntsman: joy—and some personal upheaval—for British actor who played Max. Winter’s War, a follow-up to 2012’s Snow White & the actress. Last year, she adopted “I’m not saying that they were seething right the Huntsman. It also marks unfamiliar territory for August. At around the same time, through, but the trajectory of the characters can’t her—the first sequel of her two-decade-long career she broke off her engagement to actor help but seep into the work,” Miller says of his two and one in which she plays a character obsessed with TSean Penn. The intense shoot, which requires her to stars. “When they first meet each other, they’re her own vanity. Theron has become known in the be on set by 5 a.m. most days, has meant adjusting industry as an actress who avoids parts that trade to the needs of her two young children, whom she is on her looks. She won a best actress Oscar after add - intent on tucking in every night. Today—ostensibly ing 30 pounds and prosthetics to portray serial killer her one day off—she spent several hours cramming WHITE HEAT “Charlize is the most self-possessed person,” Aileen Wuornos in Monster; she was nominated for with her dialect coach, trying to perfect her Russian says Emily Blunt, Theron’s co-star in The Huntsman: Winter’s War. “She treats you like a grown-up.” Atea her role as a gritty iron miner in North Country; and accent for a pivotal scene. Oceanie sweatshirt, Gap briefs and her own earrings (worn she received a Golden Globe nomination for playing When we meet later, over dinner, Theron re- throughout). Previous spread: Calvin Klein Collection dress.

90 SPLENDOR IN THE GRASS “I’m not so interested in the things I’m strong at,” Theron says. “I’m more interested in the weakness, the fear.” Nili Lotan dress. trying to kill each other. As the two characters come HERON SPENT HER childhood kicking unapologetic about her priorities. Theron, who’d together out of necessity and rather reluctantly, they around her parents’ dirt farm near the been friends with Penn for years, started dating him have to find a degree of trust. And to some extent town of Benoni, a backwater around 25 around two years after she adopted Jackson. “We that was the trajectory of their relationship as well.” miles from Johannesburg and as many were very, very new in a relationship,” she says. “The “From what I hear, he’s not like that on every light years from Hollywood. Amid the stories saying that Sean was going to adopt Jackson movie—I hear he’s had good experiences,” Theron isolation of the apartheid era, she lost and all of that were not true. It’s not something that says of Hardy, with a laugh. “Maybe the movie is Therself in movies, drinking them in with no concep- happens in 18 months. You can’t do that to a child. So what it is because we struggled so much with each tion of celebrity. She didn’t dream of being an actress. there was an understanding that I was a single mom other, and those characters had to struggle so much “I didn’t even know what that dream was,” Theron with a very young boy who I had to put in a situation with each other. If we were chum-chum, maybe the says. “We saw American movies but we didn’t know where he understood that Mommy dates but that he movie would have been 10 times worse.” (Hardy who anybody was. I didn’t know there was this whole does not have a father, you know what I mean? You declined to comment for this article.) celebrity fantasy world.” have to be very careful and very honest about that The movie was nominated for a best picture Oscar, Her father worked as a civil engineer, and her stuff. And Sean was great with all of that. and Miller received a best director nod as well, but he mother, Gerda, ran a construction company with “And in my honesty about wanting to have more felt “if the film were to get any nominations, Charlize him. “I am the product of the mother who raised me,” kids, there was an understanding that a relation- should get one. She was uncompromising. She was Theron says. “My mom would wake up every morn- ship had to go somewhere before it was going to constantly saying, ‘I have to do this as a warrior.’ ing, get me ready for school, make my food, get me be—what you hope for, which ultimately did not hap- Sand and dust got everywhere. Take after take, she’d on the bus and then go run the third largest road pen. I couldn’t foresee that, but that stuff takes time, have the wind machines and the dust, and a couple construction business in South Africa—and do it in and I think it’s my responsibility as a mother to pro- of times she’d tear up—just to get the dust out of her style, wearing suede boots, knee-high boots. I was so tect my child from that. And so we had a very clear eyes—and say, ‘Oh, I don’t want people to think I’m impressed by that.” understanding. He knew that I was thinking about crying.’ And I said, ‘No, don’t worry.’ But I looked In 1991, Theron, 16, entered a modeling contest, filing for another adoption but that we weren’t filing at one take, and there were tears running down her took first place and jetted from South Africa to Milan. together.” She laughs. “My publicist’s going to kill face. And I erased the tear marks on her face, because A year later, she came to New York to attend the Joffrey me; I’m already saying too much.” She laughs again, she was just determined that this character was Ballet School, hoping to fulfill her dreams of being a and after a moment, another wave of tears arrives. going to be relentless.” dancer, only to have them stymied by a knee injury, Theron has never been comfortable seeing her pri- After floods in Australia, Miller moved the produc- which left her in a deep depression. So she struck out vate life made public, and that discomfort has only tion to Namibia, home to Theron’s mother’s family, for Los Angeles—and struck out repeatedly, unable intensified as she’s read misinformation, like the and South Africa. Soon after, Theron found herself on to even land auditions. “There was a four-year period reports of her abruptly cutting off all contact with another arduous shoot in Cape Town, starring oppo- where I was living out of a suitcase,” Theron recalls. Penn, or “ghosting” him, as the social-media sphere site Javier Bardem in The Last Face, a drama about Theron was eventually discovered, in what she called it. “There is this need to sensationalize things,” humanitarian relief workers directed by her then- calls her “Lana Turner soda fountain moment,” when she says. “When you leave a relationship there has to fiancé, Sean Penn. “My son has spent more time in a talent agent handed her his card in line at a bank. be some f—ing crazy story or some crazy drama. And South Africa and Namibia than in America,” she says, He’d noticed her only because she was engaged in a the f—ing ghosting thing, like literally I still don’t a little unsettled by that fact. heated argument with a teller who refused to cash the even know what it is.” She shrugs and shakes her head. The region’s history isn’t lost on Theron, who grew check the broke actress’s mom had sent her. “It’s just its own beast. We were in a relationship and up in South Africa under apartheid. “I have a lot of “There was something really great about not then it didn’t work anymore. And we both decided to things I should probably sort out in therapy about my knowing where I was going to end up next,” she says separate. That’s it.” (Penn declined to comment.) relationship with my country. Because it’s affected of those early years. “I lived my life with that in mind. A moment later, a waitress passes by to see if we’re me way more than I’ve ever acknowledged. And it And within the first week of being in L.A., I stopped done with our food. Theron gestures first at her plate was only when I got older that I started realizing at a sign that said ‘Puppies,’ walked into a house, and then, plaintively, at mine. “I told her this morn- that I had a lot of anger; there was a lot of unresolved picked a puppy and drove to the loft I was sharing ing,” Theron says, “ ‘When I look at you, come over and stuff—apartheid, health care, AIDS, poverty—that with a friend. She’s like, ‘What the f— are you doing? save me from this guy.’ ” still very much affects me.” Theron pauses. It’s clear You don’t even know where you’re going to be next It’s hard to imagine Theron needing to be saved. that, beyond politics, her pain has personal dimen- week.’ I don’t know why, my body just did it, I don’t But as quick as she is to dismiss the suggestion that sions. “It makes you realize that the circumstances know what happened.” Soon after, she picked up she’s drawn to strong characters, she chafes at the of your formative years, it leaves a real scar—it marks another cocker spaniel mutt. “Those two dogs, some- notion that she is one herself. “I’m a lot more inter- you. It’s the one thing that gets me really angry, really how between them and the universe, they knew I was ested in the weakness, the fear,” she says. “I’m not so emotional. It’s a lot of f—ing suffering, and unneces- going to stay in L.A., even if I didn’t.” interested in the things that I’m strong at. I’m way sary suffering. more perplexed and invested in the things that scare “And just people getting the s— kicked out of them ALWAYS KNEW I wanted more kids,” Theron me and the things that break you as a human. It’s in for a very, very long time,” Theron says, overcome by says. When I ask her if she plans any further those moments that you find your strength.” a rush of tears. She breathes deeply, trying to hold additions to her family, she hesitates. “I don’t Within a few minutes, she gets a text. It’s the baby- them back. “Yeah. Sorry.” know. But I always knew I wanted more than sitter telling her it’s almost bath time for August and A waiter approaches with her meal, and she wipes one. Always.” story time for Jackson. Theron perks up and can’t the tears from her face with the back of her hand, Theron emphasizes this last point. “When resist the opportunity to show me photos on her grateful for the reprieve. “Oh, yay. Steak.” Iyou’re with somebody and it comes to kids, you can’t iPhone: shots of Jackson, of Jackson holding August, bulls—,” she says. “And so I was always very honest of August in the bathtub, of her feeding them both with Sean that I wanted to have more kids. And he and getting them dressed. “Your whole life is about was very supportive.” these things that you like to share, these things that SPLIT DECISION “In my honesty about wanting to have Theron’s much-scrutinized 18-month relation- you love more than anything in the world. I cannot more kids, there was an understanding that a relationship has to go somewhere before it was going to be—what you ship with Penn was a rare match: two accomplished wait to share a diaper. hope for, which ultimately did not happen,” Theron says of actors, both committed to social activism, each the “Did I just say ‘share a diaper’?” She shakes her her recent breakup with Sean Penn. Michael Kors Collection other’s intellectual and artistic equal. She entered head and corrects herself. “Change a diaper. turtleneck and pants. Hair, Enzo Angileri; makeup, Francesca Tolot; manicure, Marisa Carmichael. For details into the relationship with the 55-year-old actor just “No. I want to share a diaper with you,” she tells see Sources, page 118. as she exited it—open to possibility but upfront and me. “That’s what you’re getting before you leave.” •

95 The effortless design ethos of Clare Waight Keller, creative director of French brand Chloé, is nowhere more evident than in her Parisian home. DESIGNING WOMAN BY JOSHUA LEVINE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAGNUS MARDING

EASY LIVING The eclectic mix of furnishings and art that fills Clare Waight Keller’s apartment in Paris’s 16th arrondissement exemplifies her wide-ranging taste. Here, a pair of ’70s Etcetera chairs by Jan Ekselius, a Belgian coffee table from the same period that displays a ’50s African carving and pieces by British artists, including Phyllida Barlow and Gary Hume. HE FITTING MODEL was standing in a I’ll ever live in something this size again,” she says, sheer, gauzy frock whose many pleats sounding wistful for the small farmhouse by the sea around the bottom were scrunched in Cornwall where she loves to escape. and folded this way and that, held The apartment is a welcoming, unfussy space, in place by dozens of pins. When it filled with odd things picked up casually along her floated down the runway at Chloé’s way—her grandmother’s lamp; a funny photograph Tfall/winter 2016 show in March, it was a billowy num- of pubic hair with a marmoset by Ryan McGinley ber splotched with colors like sunlight bouncing off a (he shot ads and a film for Pringle of Scotland when lake. It’s wispy, wood-nymphy stuff that falls loosely Waight Keller was its creative director); a huge map on a coltishly feminine, boyishly rumpled creature of New York from when she lived there (“I got lost in that the brand has dubbed the Chloé girl. the West Village so many times”); another photo- Here in the studio in Paris’s eighth arrondisse- graph of painting-palette tests by the artist Jenny ment, a month earlier, the dress was still just a Saville (“We collaborated on a scarf based on these “you’re thinking, monochrome mock-up, and Clare Waight Keller, tests, so this was quite precious”). Everywhere there oh god, do i need IN THE MIX Clockwise from left: A French farmhouse table surrounded by 1930s Chloé’s creative director, was scowling dubiously at are chairs, which she just can’t stop herself from buy- another tight bank chairs; a Gary Hume print with an Italian plaster horse, an African mask and it, pulling out pins and then sticking them back in. ing. And in front of Waight Keller’s bedroom fireplace a ’70s French lamp; Clare Waight Keller in the living room. “Could you please go take a walk?” Waight Keller, stands a phalanx of her shoes (“All good girls should skirt? it’s about who is English, asked terribly politely. The model have a shoe fireplace”). adaptability— walked back and forth across the fitting room. And Nothing about the apartment feels as though it’s understanding then she did it again, and again. Something about straining for effect, which, as it happens, is a bedrock the flow all those pleats just wasn’t falling right. Being a fit- principle of Chloé girlism. The kitchen is a huge, bright ting model generally calls more for stillness than room, with a big, heavy-legged wooden table that of fashion.” exertion, but here, the model was back and forth all encourages sitting around, and that’s what Waight –clare waight keller afternoon, as Waight Keller scrutinized each piece Keller had in mind when she moved the kitchen to to make sure the flou—the French term for the whole what had been the apartment’s dining room. category of skimpy, flowy fabrics—had the proper She’s got a different favorite spot for solitary sit- flounce. It turns out, inventing insouciance is pains- ting around. It’s one of those small corner rooms taking work. that are frequently found in old Paris apartments, its “Chloé is so much about movement. It’s so much high portes-fenêtres facing south and west. “I end up about the feel of something,” says Waight Keller, 45, being in here a lot, sitting on the sofa and slogging who joined Chloé nearly five years ago from Pringle through things,” she says. “You get sunlight all after- of Scotland. “When I came to Paris, I hadn’t worked a noon here, and it makes such lovely shadows. I love lot with flou because it’s an extremely difficult fabri- looking out the window at the moldings on buildings cation to work with if you can’t physically move and across the street. It just feels so Paris to me.” drape in three dimensions. It may not be a house rule that Chloé’s designer “I had always worked in systems where you hand must be a Chloé girl, but it clearly helps. The way over a sketch and technical details, send it away Chloé works, and has always worked, is to build the and wait for it to come back. A flat sketch doesn’t brand around the imagined persona of its emblem- Waight Keller has managed to thread this needle describe the volume you’re talking about, the cuts atic customer. For this summer, Waight Keller deftly by taking herself and what she wants to wear you’re talking about and the drape you’re talking rummaged through the wardrobe of the ’90s and as her starting point, rather than a bunch of dis- about. At Gucci, we used to sketch flou-y dresses, and pulled out a pair of track pants. Just because. “I was embodied adjectives. She designs clothes first and when they came back, you’d just go, ‘Oh God, that’s so thinking, I’ve done big flare, and I’m sick of wearing fashion second. “Women need to desire clothing, so bad.’ Working with an atelier down the hall is a huge my boyfriend jeans, so what do I want to wear now?” even when I’m in fittings, I think, Would I want to advantage. I can say, ‘Cut this in five different fabrics.’ Chloé makes much of the fact that it has no curlicue wear that?” Waight Keller says. “It’s at the heart of You need to test it constantly, to refine it constantly.” C logo or other branding iron to stamp its product and, what I work on every day. That for me is the trigger It’s clear that when it comes to Chloé and Clare by extension, its clientele. It doesn’t pay celebrities point that makes it real, instead of just something for Waight Keller, the flou fits. For one thing, Waight to show up in the camera’s crosshairs at its runway a shoot. It’s something you really want in your ward- Keller walks and talks like a quintessential Chloé shows, says Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, a former robe because you know it’s going to make you feel girl herself: porcelain skin, thick brown hair hang- Disney executive who joined Chloé as chief executive great. I think it’s harder to feel that if you’re a male ing loose, jeans and a man’s button-down, and an the year before Waight Keller arrived. Instead the designer. I have a couple of guys on my team, and I’m unruffled, “I’m OK, thanks” vibe. She’s easy in her brand relies on the influence of the brigade of fresh- always having to challenge them. They’ll say, ‘Oh, sneakers, as the French say. You want to hang with faced Chloé devotees who fill the front row. “We are this looks really Chloé!’ And I’m like, ‘Yes, but I don’t her the same way you would want to hang with Chloé not a brand that screams,” he likes to say. want to wear that right now.’ ” clients like, say, Jane Birkin or Marianne Faithfull That makes for a tricky balancing act, however. This corresponds to the spirit of Gaby Aghion, PLAYING HOUSE (who was perhaps at her most Chloé when confronted Waight Keller’s designs must project a precise idea of who created the brand in 1952. Gaby and her husband, Above left: A ’50s chair by Carlo di Carli by the cops at Keith Richards’s house in 1967, clad who the Chloé girl is without defining her so narrowly Raymond Aghion, arrived in Paris from Alexandria, is arranged with two only in a fur rug. “I’ve always thought women look that all the not-Chloé girls of the world feel rejected. Egypt, just after the war. They quickly fell in with the antique Dutch milking better naked,” said Gaby Aghion, Chloé’s founder). Richemont, the brand’s owner, has big plans for Chloé, smart set at the Café de Flore on the Left Bank. Haute stools in the sitting room. Left: The Kellers’ three I met with Waight Keller at her cavernous apart- and they don’t include playing haberdasher to a ya-ya couture had its mailing address on the Right Bank, children in the master ment just off the Bois de Boulogne in Paris’s 16th sisterhood of insiders. (Richemont doesn’t release where Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga and bedroom. Right: The arrondissement. It took her a while to get used to all Chloé’s annual sales, but Exane BNP Paribas analyst Schiaparelli had been cutting and sewing during the original parquet floor was concealed beneath those grand Haussmannian rooms strung out end Luca Solca guesses $300 million.) De la Bourdonnaye Nazi occupation. green shag carpeting to end—her 4-year-old son, Harrison, loves mak- would even let Kim Kardashian, arguably the world’s Aghion had a strong sense of style, not to mention when the Kellers found ing endless loops around them on his scooter. (She un-Chloé-iest person, join the club. “I wouldn’t want a fair amount of money (her husband’s family was the apartment. The chandelier is vintage and her architect husband, Philip Keller, also have to say she’s not a Chloé girl—anybody can be a Chloé in the cotton exporting business). She bought a few

Murano glass. MARTIN CÉLINE BY MAKEUP YAHIRO; MASANORI HAIR BY twin girls, Amelia and Charlotte, 13.) “I don’t think girl,” de la Bourdonnaye says expansively. Balenciagas and a few Diors. But she couldn’t afford

99 to dress that way all the time—who could?—and the two developed a warm working relationship. the time became second nature when I got to school. besides, she didn’t want to. She discovered to her dis- The Chloé girl remained in sure, sisterly hands When they tell me now that something is labor- may that there really wasn’t much else in the way of under Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, who was intensive, I’m like, Really?” stylish, well-tailored clothing. It simply didn’t exist. McCartney’s design assistant before taking over After graduating from London’s Royal College Shortly before her death in 2014, Aghion recalled in 2001. And then, for a few years after Philo left in of Art with a master’s in fashion knitwear, she was how she pretty much conjured prêt-à-porter out of 2006, Chloé stumbled. thrown into the hurly-burly of ’90s New York as thin air. “One morning, I woke up thinking, ‘I will a designer for Calvin Klein. It was the ideal place make a little collection of charming dresses in very NTER WAIGHT KELLER, whose dis- to acquire some armor plating. “I’d never seen a pretty colors that women will fancy.’... I designed jointed résumé makes her oddly well cockroach in my life,” Waight Keller says, laughing. six dresses, hired seamstresses with haute-couture suited to lead Chloé at a time when “Calvin Klein was a little dry on the design side, but training, borrowed a friend’s name, Chloé—which bigger things are expected of it. Early you suddenly went Voom! to something very commer- I liked for the roundness of its letters—and hand- on, she picked up the artisanal chops cial. It’s about being sure you shift the big numbers. painted the label with one of my artist friends; I needed to elevate everyday-wear to That kind of hard-core, brutal start makes you really wanted it to be amusing. I then decided to personally Esomething finer. When she was growing up, her tough really quick.” propose this collection to boutiques. I was sticking mother hand-stitched the family’s clothes in their At Ralph Lauren’s luxurious Purple Label, she got my neck out. I was a client; I became a saleswoman. I modest Birmingham home. “That’s one of my first essentially a doctorate in detailing and construction. had sass, I was light-hearted, and I had a hell of a lot of memories: standing there and my mother saying, “Everything is in the detail. Ralph works in milli- nerve!” she wrote in the 2013 book Chloé: Attitudes. ‘Don’t move, don’t move, I’m going to pin you, don’t meters. A lot of people say, ‘Oh, it’s an old-fashioned Over the years, Chloé’s choice of designers, both move!’ ” she says. “Then, as my sister and I got older, look,’ but there was a lot of depth to what he did, no under Aghion and since 1985 under what is now we had to become her helpers. She hated how I pinned matter what you see on the surface. He would say, ‘I Richemont, has been astute. Aghion handpicked patterns because I’d make too much of a bubble in the only want shirts that have a 16-piece collar,’ and I’m a pre-Chanel Karl Lagerfeld in the mid-’60s, and fabric—little, subtle things that I didn’t realize at like, Really? A collar can have 16 pieces?” Perhaps the boot camp that best prepared Waight Keller for Chloé was the drilling under Tom Ford at Gucci, where she landed in 2000. This was Ford’s heyday at Gucci, when the brand’s image was so sharp and so seamless it looked laser-cut. Ford was responsible for that. “He’s extremely rigorous about things,” says Waight Keller. “That’s something that’s always been in the back of my mind at Chloé—making sure the message is very consistent. I’m the guardian of the brand.” She learned another lesson at Gucci, too: when to soften the hard-edged story line. “As much as I loved working with Tom, you get to a point where you feel a bit saturated with the look. You’re thinking, Oh God, do I need another tight skirt? It’s about adaptability—understanding the flow of fashion, which I try to sense intuitively all the time.” If there was a bump along the way to Chloé, it may have been Paris itself, with its brittle codes and per- snickety way of doing things. At first, it threw Waight Keller. “When you live here, you have a very different perception than most people’s romantic notion of Paris. It’s quite an uncompromising city; you have to fit your personal life to it, not the other way around. Sometimes you can be really irritated by it.” But as she has throughout her unlikely journey here, Waight Keller adapted and ultimately thrived. She has learned to love the afternoon light from her corner study, where she flops on the sofa when she gets back from the studio. She walks Harrison to school every morning and plays tennis with the twins every weekend in the Bois de Boulogne, just across the street. The butcher says bonjour now. She’s made Paris work for her. At Chloé, she has turned Paris’s insular, uncompromising standards to her advantage, too. “It’s allowed me to work with fabrics I’ve never worked with before, like lace. TREASURE CHEST Lace has since become a huge part of my signature. This page: An Indian For me, that’s quite empowering,” she says. “In the set of drawers inlaid beginning, somebody in the atelier told me, ‘We don’t with mother-of-pearl in the master bedroom. care what’s going on elsewhere; Paris only competes Opposite: A Pierre with itself.’ I think that’s what makes Paris the stron- Jeanneret timber-and- gest and most creative city in many ways. There are rope chair at the desk of Waight Keller’s things that are frustrating, but then you change what husband, Philip. works for you.” •

100 Adult Swim For 60 years, guests from royals to rock CANDID CAMERA stars have flocked to Jean Pigozzi’s Clockwise from left: Gianni Agnelli kissing Koo Stark (1986); Villa Dorane pool. Featuring an array of Elizabeth Taylor (1993); “This is pre-cellphone!” says Pigozzi his personal photographs, Pigozzi’s new of Michael Douglas (1990). book captures the action.

LITTLE MISS SUNSHINE BY CARL SWANSON Clockwise from below: A BlackBerry tucked into a guest’s bathing suit (2010); Helmut Newton and Mick Jagger (1990); “This is the T’S A BIT LIKE if you did a play on Broadway with only one only picture that is not of the set,” says Jean “Johnny” Pigozzi of Pool Party, a new book pool itself,” says Pigozzi of his photographs published by Rizzoli that chronicles a of the Italian tender on which many guests arrive (2008). decades-long cast of friends—including Jack Nicholson, Swifty Lazar, Jane Fonda, Shane Smith, Naomi Campbell, Larry Gagosian and Woody Allen—cavorting around his Ikidney-shaped pool at the Villa Dorane in Cap d’Antibes, in France. The Joan Collins TV miniseries Monte Carlo was filmed there in 1986; there’s a group photo from Helmut Newton’s 68th birthday party in 1988; Elle Macpherson is pictured in a floatie on the cover, in 1991. “It’s reflecting over 60 years of this pool,” says Pigozzi, “In the wInter whose father, Henri, founded the French car company Simca and all of my built Villa Dorane in 1953, the year after Johnny was born. “I Inflatables learned how to swim there. The first time I saw girls in bikinis [was] there. I tried to kiss girls there for the first time. I had all have sex, my summer holidays there,” Pigozzi says. “It has been part of my and there entire life; this pool is my little sister.” are even Pigozzi is a collector—of art and of people, who often ended up at more In the the pool. When they did, Pigozzi photographed them: initially with a Polaroid, à la Warhol, then with a Leica M4. Now he uses a small sprIng.” Sony point-and-shoot—no iPhone here. “Over the years people have –Jean pIgozzI changed, and there are new ones, too,” he says. “There’s also a lot SPLISH, SPLASH of dead people, sadly enough. Nearly half of the book is dead.” Pool Clockwise from top: Jean Party, out this spring, is in part a tribute to good times gone by. In Pigozzi underwater with Alexia Niedzielski (right) and a friend its introduction, Bono writes: “Villa Dorane seemed like a chapter (2013); David Geffen (1988); F. Scott Fitzgerald didn’t live long enough to write, but you know Pigozzi’s pool inflatables (2015); he would.” Elle Macpherson with Pigozzi’s

dog Henry (1997). ALL IMAGES © JEAN PIGOZZI Everyone, it seems, came for a swim. Elizabeth Taylor visited in 1993, and “after like three minutes she said, ‘Mr. Pigozzi, are you going to buy me a diamond?’ I said, ‘Why?’ ” he recalls. “She said, ‘I ask every man I meet to buy me a diamond. And sometimes it works.’ ” The secret to Pigozzi’s parties? “There’s not Cristal and mountains of caviar and butlers with white gloves,” he says, down- playing comparisons to the more formal events depicted in Slim Aarons photographs. Instead of fancy décor, there are brightly WATER COOLER colored inflatable animals. “I couldn’t afford to have a $30 million Clockwise from left: Ahmet Ertegun and Nan Koons in the pool, so I got these,” he says. As a result the atmo- Kempner (1988), who Pigozzi says was “the original social X-ray; it was always fun to sphere is like a family affair. “The trick is to mix ages,” says the have her at a party”; “I used to invite them 63-year-old. “Now that I am old, I have the children and the grand- before they were so famous,” Pigozzi says of children come over. And pretty girls. Older, younger, billionaires, the Edge, Michael Hutchence and Bono (1994); Pigozzi with a Chanel bag (1988)—“That’s a artists. I don’t care about famous or not-famous people. I care about bit embarrassing. But the pool is 100 percent having good friends around the pool.” • relaxed. Someone took this with my camera.”

102 103 NEW ATTITUDE Ready, set, go: Inject a jolt of energy into edgy styles with polished pieces and radical proportions.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL JACKSON STYLING BY GERALDINE SAGLIO

SHINE ON Balance slouchy pieces with body-conscious choices. Mugler top, Isabel Marant pants, Gerbe tights (worn throughout) and Dior shoes (worn throughout). Opposite: Dior sweater and Versace skirt.

104 LOOK SHARP Update basic black with exaggerated shapes that are either blousy or fitted. Fendi blouse and pants and Kenzo top (worn underneath). Opposite: Versus Versace jacket and Anthony Vaccarello bra and skirt with attached belt. 107 NOVEL GRAPHICS Take charge with attention-grabbing eyes and boldly striped pants. Max Mara coat. Opposite: Rag & Bone top, Balmain jacket and Roberto Cavalli pants. SWING OUT Showing some ankle hasn’t seemed this exciting since the Victorian era. Anthony Vaccarello bra and Chanel pants. Opposite: Miu Miu coat and Wanda Nylon pants. 111 CUT ABOVE Leather, grommets, exposed zippers and fringe can look more refined than rough. Diesel Black Gold top, Kenzo top (worn underneath) and Alexander Wang pants. Opposite: Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane jacket and leggings. Model, Imaan Hammam at DNA Model Management; hair, Esther Langham; makeup, Romy Soleimani; manicure, Rica Romain. For details 112 see Sources, page 118. MAD ABOUT HUGH Though he’s had a remarkable career—and will add two major TV roles to his roster this year—actor Hugh Laurie still has to face his toughest critic: himself.

BY NED ZEMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRAEME MITCHELL

HE FIRST ATYPICAL thing about Hugh Laurie surely—just in terms of Newtonian physics—there must be is his height. Unlike most Hollywood actors, a gap now.’ ” he’s actually taller than he appears on screen. In today’s Hollywood, the only thing rarer than a star Officially, he stands 6-foot-2; unofficially, he who smokes in public is one who does so while referenc- seems even taller. ing Newtonian physics. Perhaps the most uncommon thing When we first meet, on a quiet patio in about Laurie is that, despite his accomplished and enduring Tdowntown Los Angeles, he’s wearing a slightly faraway career, he readily admits to being a head case of the highest expression—a look that would not be unfamiliar to fans of order and a prisoner of self-doubt. House, the popular Fox medical drama in which Laurie spent Not that he finds these qualities particularly special. eight seasons playing a misanthropic diagnostician. “I bore myself,” he says at one point. “I’ve actually fallen “Please don’t take this the wrong way,” Laurie says, “but asleep mid-sentence on a therapist’s couch, I’ve bored I could really use a cigarette right now.” myself so much.” He moves along, patting his pockets for a wayward pack Given all that, and also considering his well-publicized of cigarettes, and seems a little out of sorts until he has one burnout at the end of his run on House, it might seem in hand. Hovering near an open doorway, hunched against counterintuitive that Laurie’s forthcoming TV show, the wind, he lights the smoke, takes a couple of drags and Chance, has him starring as a shrink; in the noirish Hulu exhales. “Right, then,” he says. “You were saying?” original series, which debuts this fall, he plays Dr. Eldon He smiles and seeks out the one chair that’s shielded Chance, a San Francisco–based forensic neuropsychiatrist TUNNEL VISION English actor Hugh Laurie, from the sun. “I have, from time to time, stopped smoking renowned for evaluating criminal defendants. “I opened who starred in House for cigarettes,” he says a bit later. “And there’s a thing about this thing, and by the first page, I went, ‘Oh, that’s a shame, eight seasons, takes on two de-smoking, or whatever the term is that therapists use, because I obviously can’t do this,’ ” says Laurie, who was new TV roles this year in AMC’s The Night Manager that people get anxious about: ‘Well, if I’m not a smoker, initially opposed to another doctor role. “And then, within and Hulu’s Chance. have I lost something? If I take that thing away, then about three pages, I actually completely forgot about that.

115 RENAISSANCE MAN From left: Laurie’s 2013 THE DOCTOR IS IN From left: album, Didn’t It Rain; Hugh Laurie with best friend Stephen a live performance in Graz, Fry, in 1991; Laurie’s 1996 novel, Austria, in 2014; opposite The Gun Seller; Laurie in an episode Tom Hiddleston in The of the long-running series House. Night Manager.

And I thought, This is just a totally different creation project. Two decades later, when it emerged from the Laurie’s recent guest-starring role in the HBO show and the Hollywood lifestyle. (By then, he was UT BY THE TIME House’s run finally Finally, after dancing around the subject, I asked and approach. There’s no wisecracking in this. This Hollywood oblivion known as “development hell,” comedy Veep. “Absolutely startling,” Laurie says of spending long months apart from his family back in ended, in 2012, Laurie gave abso- him why he now avoids discussing the D-word. is about real suffering.” Laurie was all over it. the gesture. England, where he lives with his wife of 26 years, Jo lutely zero consideration to playing “I can understand how it might be perceived as an In this area, Laurie knows whereof he speaks. There was just one hitch: He’d always seen himself But when I casually mention that Hanks’s produc- Green. They have three adult children, Charlie, Bill an eponymous doctor on an American indulgence on many levels, because, first of all, I am Since the late ’90s, the actor has acknowledged his playing Pine, the story’s dashing young protagonist. tion company has a deal at HBO, things take a turn. and Rebecca.) TV drama series again. Chance, how- quite preposterously lucky to be where I am, doing battle with depression. The affliction, he said in a By this point, though, Laurie was well north of 50. “Oh,” Laurie says. He looks stricken, saucer-eyed. “Oh, no, no, no,” Laurie says. “Well, this serves ever, had a couple of things going what I’m doing, and to have lived the life that I live. 2002 Evening Standard interview, “affected every- (He’s 56 today.) “I had to just assimilate the fact that “You think they told him to write it?” me right for not reading the stuff, because that’s not Bfor it. First, it’s really nothing like House. The new I give thanks for it every single day,” he says. “And thing—my family and friends. I was a pain in the arse I was not going to be the night manager,” Laurie says. “No,” I say. “Not at all.” accurate. I did use the phrase ‘gilded cage.’ That was show is aggressively dark. Laurie’s character gets to actually spend any time trying to enlist sympa- to have around. I was miserable and self-absorbed.” “I’m no longer qualified, if I ever was—and, by the “You think they sent it?” a mistake. But that was to do with the experience sucked into a vortex of multiple identities, sexual thy—‘Oh, you don’t realize how I suffer’—is sort of The first time I bring up his low period, however, way, I wasn’t. I never was sufficiently virile and dash- And there’s that self-doubt again. “For some rea- of playing the eponymous character in a television intrigue and madness. In many ways, Chance is the indecent, in a way.” Laurie shrugs, says, “Wish I’d never mentioned it” ing to be the night manager. So I had to stand aside son, there’s a side of him that can’t actually embrace show, and therefore being confined to a black box for anti-House. “Well,” I say, “if you frame it that way—” and tilts the conversation elsewhere. and watch Tom Hiddleston be that.” that he’s a genius,” Bier says. “And he always has to 100 hours a week. But for that I was incredibly well Second, the show piqued his interest in the sub- “And I also think that, to a degree, it sort of feeds At this point, he’d much rather discuss his role Right now the 35-year-old Hiddleston is best known sort of tease himself or belittle himself. It’s actu- paid. No, there was no feeling of retreat.” ject of human psychology. Recently, he devoured a upon itself. If you acknowledge it and confront it, you in AMC’s The Night Manager, a six-part miniseries for playing a bad guy in The Avengers. But soon he’ll be ally kind of endearing. But there are times when you Ultimately, Laurie says, “I realized I was never six-part PBS series, The Brain, hosted by the neuro- might be able to get the better of it. But you might based on the best-selling thriller by John le Carré that linked to his sly turn as Pine. Laurie plays Pine’s tar- think, ‘Can’t he just enjoy himself?’ ” going to get the better of it, so I should just stop. Also, scientist David Eagleman. And just last week, he also just be giving oxygen to the whole thing.” premieres in April. The story’s While filming the mini- my Presbyterian side won’t “Is there a fear also that peo- protagonist, a hotel clerk named series, Laurie periodically allow me to delight in positive ple will just constantly identify Jonathan Pine, finds himself “every human being is the star of their worked himself into a state. things. So I don’t even try.” “he might seem a little moody and distant. you as That Guy?” recruited to work undercover on own movie. we have to occupy the central “Hesitations and anxiet- He adds: “But even if every but he isn’t. he’s a rare figure in that “Yeah. And depressed people behalf of the British intelligence role of our own drama.” —hugh laurie ies bedeviled every line,” he word that came out of my mouth he actually considers things.” —stephen fry cling to depression because it service MI6, in order to catch an recalls. “I always have hesita- was accurately reported, even is, to some degree, familiar. international arms dealer. tions. And I always spend the if such a thing were possible, I It’s known. It’s part of who one Laurie, who is a bit of a polymath, has long been get, Richard Onslow Roper, an arms dealer with the entire shoot running through the list of people would still hate it, because I don’t want to be accu- says, he spent five hours with Richard Taylor, a is—that maybe, if I surrender it, if I heal myself, obsessed with Le Carré and the spy genre; in 1996, mind of a jackal and the means of Croesus. they should have gotten to play the role.” rately represented.” forensic psychiatrist known for evaluating some of well, then what?” Laurie pauses, hits mental replay. he published a well-received satiric novel called The Laurie was so close to the material and Pine that he During this particular shoot, his list of preferred Wait, what? Britain’s most notorious killers and pyromaniacs. “That may be incorrect,” he says, and forges onward: Gun Seller. In Britain, he attained hero status as half felt compelled to impress his vision on Susanne Bier, actors included one who has since died. “I feel I “Because I bore myself. Because I’m dull—no, “The aberrations of the human brain have always “But most of all, a privileged, Western, reasonably of A Bit of Fry & Laurie, a sketch-comedy act he cre- who directed The Night Manager, and Hiddleston, shouldn’t even say his name, because it feels disre- really, I am.” been interesting to me,” Laurie says. “That’s partly healthy actor who is living the life I live has got no ated with his best friend, the estimable Stephen Fry. sometimes to the point of conflict. He even tried to spectful now,” Laurie says. “But I was always such an Like Laurie, Stephen Fry attributes that attitude why I’m doing the show. And I’m looking for as many business, really. It’s just ill-mannered. It’s ill-man- Laurie also had long runs on two classic British TV rewrite certain scenes, but his colleagues pushed enormous admirer of Alan Rickman’s. I thought that to his friend’s chronic Presbyterianism. Laurie was sort of perspectives on the tunnel.” nered to complain—” series: Blackadder and Jeeves and Wooster. Not least, back. “He said, ‘Let’s just agree about not agreeing,’ ” he has, or had, such a powerful presence, a sort of raised in Oxford, England, by what Fry describes as That “the tunnel” happens to be the central “That sounds British.” he’s released two blues albums and toured the world Bier recalls, “which was very liberating. There was silky malice that he was able to summon.” He sighs at “parents who believed in the virtues of modesty to the metaphor in a memoir I’d written about my own “Yeah, I suppose it is. I think British people would with his band. such a desire to get it right.” the heavens. “I really shouldn’t say that.” point of self-abnegation. Cockiness, self-satisfaction adventures in depression and madness is not lost certainly have that response.” “I’ve loved Le Carré from the very first moment,” Although famous for playing an anti-hero in The refrain is a common one from Laurie, for whom and pride were the three deadly sins in the Laurie on Laurie, who joked that he’d bought 10 copies Laurie sits back and runs a hand through his hair; Laurie says. “But this book was a sort of sacred text House, Laurie is new to supervillainy. When address- the experience of being interviewed—of being asked household, I think. And while there is something to of my book so he could have one in every room. his smile suggests benign capitulation. “I think I’m for me. It was his first post–Cold War novel. And I ing purely craft-related questions, Laurie speaks to publicly expound, reveal, share—can be excruciat- be said for that, perhaps it can be taken too far.” Throughout our conversation, and despite Laurie’s very different now, for reasons I alluded to before, was so thrilled and relieved to see that he had found with a cool erudition that bespeaks his schooling at ing. He’s among the very few celebrities who don’t That Laurie happens to be an expansive interview earlier protestations about discussing the subject, which I probably wouldn’t want to go into.” But material that would allow this vision to not only Eton and Cambridge. “Every antagonist must feel read press clippings. “Not anymore,” he clarifies. subject is a byproduct of his discomfort. He spews he repeatedly makes oblique (and not so oblique) then he does. “I think I am less troubled than I was. continue but to actually excel. I was about three themselves to be a protagonist,” he says. “Every “Why did you stop?” I ask. “Was it just tedious?” forth a profusion of qualifiers, apologies and olive references to his psychological hardships; at one Better. Actually better. I don’t know if that makes me chapters in. I remember picking up the phone—the human being is the star of their own movie. We have “No! Not at all. It was sort of the reverse of branches, because he doesn’t want to come off the point, unbidden, he leans close to me and asks, a better person. But the moody introspection I’ve got only time I’ve ever done this—and I tried to option to occupy the central role of our own drama, and cer- tedious,” he says. “I had the pathology that every- wrong way—i.e., pompous, boring or rude. “Do you still kind of hear the tunnel every now and more sort of under control. I see it coming, and I have the film rights.” He winces. “I didn’t even really tainly Roper is the central role of his.” body talks about of fixating on the negative.” “I sometimes see Hugh through strangers’ eyes,” then?” But when I turn the question back at Laurie, ways of heading it off.” know what option meant, but I’d heard it used as After a digression about playing protago- Toward the end of his run on House, during which Fry says. “Media people’s especially. And he might he demurs, saying he bought the book merely for Period. a phrase.” nists, Laurie mentions that Tom Hanks, whom he he earned a reported $700,000 per episode, certain seem a little moody and distant. But he isn’t. He’s a research purposes. “I’m about to embark on a role Then: “Now, of course, I’m thinking I probably

Although his bid failed, Laurie kept tabs on the particularly admires, sent him a letter praising publications cited that he’d grown weary of both the GROOMING, CHERI KEATING; FROM LEFT: © TRINITY MIRROR/MIRRORPIX/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; N/C; ISABELLA VOSMIKOVA/NBCU PHOTO BANK/GETTY IMAGES FROM LEFT: N/C; SEBASTIAN PATTER/REDFERNS VIA GETTY IMAGES; DES WILLIE/THE INK FACTORY/AMC rare figure in that he actually considers things.” playing a neuropsychiatrist,” he says. shouldn’t have said that at all.” •

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@WSJnoted | wsjnoted.com © 2016 DOW JONES & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 6AO1521. 118 wsj. magazine still life EDNA O’BRIEN The grande dame of Irish literature shares some of her favorite things.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GYRITHE LEMCHE

“THE CONTEMPORARY IRISH artist John Behan gave two masks from Uganda. They’re very solemn, but I a work of his so I had to settle for a postcard! Finally, me the bronze figure on the left, which is a Celtic can be solemn myself. The painting above the man- there are two writers with whom I have spent quite TAILORED TO MOVE goddess of war, strife and sovereignty. One could telpiece is of an Aboriginal warrior and was given a considerable amount of time—I wrote a play about make a kind of simile there and say that writing a to me by the Australian artist Russell Drysdale. It’s Virginia Woolf and a biography of James Joyce. All book is a matter of strife and war—my latest novel, wonderful—abstract yet very real and quite bloody women writers and artists owe a big debt to Virginia The Little Red Chairs, took me the better part of four in its way. I’m an admirer of a lot of Australian paint- Woolf (whose portrait, by George Beresford, is on the years to write. It’s an imaginative interpretation of ing. The lovely Fortuny sage green shawl on the right right) because she raised the first battle banner for an actual person, not dissimilar in temperament to was another gift, which a friend brought back from the female artist. Ironically, she disliked Joyce. The despots like Stalin—totally ruthless with an almost Venice. The material itself is silk, but it’s the pleat- engraving of Joyce in the center is by David Wurtzel. inspired gift for denial. The framed prose piece ing that’s so remarkable. It seems to move in different Whatever gifts I have, he was the writer from whom behind it is one of W.B. Yeats’s motifs about silence. light. The postcard above is of the work of the great I learned the most. I look at it from time to time, and I think Yeats’s poetry got stronger and more myste- Anselm Kiefer. Among living artists he’s a towering I say, ‘James, please help me, please summon up the rious as he went on. My son Sasha brought me the figure—what he does is so powerful. I couldn’t afford words for me.’ ” —As told to Tobias Grey

120 wsj. magazine HERMÈS BY NATURE

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