pearls of the mediterranean

I made up my mind quite a long time preserved its original face in the midst of the ago about whether or not I should big tourist centres of ’s for over six decades. still looks like entrust you with one of my favourite a small fishermen’s village. There are no big holiday destinations. Tamariu is not tourist resorts or hotels, and it still combines the like any other small port town in advantages of a uniquely beautiful diving area which one can swim, dive and eat with the original charm of the “wild coast”. The German diver, Günter Stollberg, founded well. No! Tamariu is my little secret, his dive centre in Tamariu 37 years ago. Since and I share it already with quite a lot then, he has offered dive trips to nine dive of other insiders. But if you like, I will sites that belong to some the best of what the initiate you now. Mediterranean Sea has to offer. “Stolli” (Stollberg’s nickname) gives his I cannot describe in just a few words why divers a high degree of personalized service, Tamariu counts as one of the loveliest places up-to-date dive technology, and well cared I have ever visited in my life. It is not just the for state-of-the-art equipment. His dive base smell of the pine woods and cypresses, the provides a fresh water rinse shower as well as mild climate and the wild, cleft coast that an easy on-site storage of gear. Gabriela, the hides probably the best dive sites of the 75-year-old diesel engine-powered dive boat, A Hidden Secret Mediterranean Sea under the surface of is a 30-foot former Spanish fishing boat that can the water, Tamariu is a small pearl that has Over and under water Tamariu offers awe- some perspectives—the picturesque bay is Text by Harald Apelt. Photos by one of the loveliest on Costa Brava, and the Maria Pichlmaier and Günter Stolberg reefs are lusciously carpeted with gorgones Tamariu 67 X-RAY MAG : 25 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED pearls of the Tamariu mediterranean COUNTER-CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The sandy beach of Tamariu is not very crowded outside the main tourist season. Big swarms of Anthias are patrouling the reefs, Mediterranean moreys and Seahorses are not so easy to find

also be operated The second highlight Stolli offers is the “Furio under sail while taking Fito de Begur”. The reef looks like a big plateau a maximum of 15 and begins on approximately 14 metres of divers per dive tour. depth. On the north side is a drop-off wall, She is dedicated which is covered with Gorgones. The wall drops to exploring nine 42 metes vertically down. To the east of the different dive sites drop off is the second reef, formed like a sugar close by which loaf. This one begins at 25 metres. Between both present the usual reefs are big lobsters, which hide in the depths. varied population of On the plateau there are numerous Morays marine life found in and a lot of Octopuses. Under overhangs and the Mediterranean. in fissures, one can regularly see Congers, Fork It’s only 30 metres beards and splendid Scorpion fishes. away from the dive In April and May, the rare John Dory (Zeus center to the little pier Faber) can be observed, and in May-June, were divers can start sunfishes can be seen quite often sleeping on their dive expeditions the surface in the sun. at the house reef with And after diving activities, divers can enjoy a very comfortable the fine, clean stretch of the sandy beach entrance and submerged depths between 5-15 dotted with little shops and a handful of metres of depth. The highlight—the sea horses— restaurants and tapas bars where the typical are difficult to find, but Stolli’s partner, Ade, has Catalonian cuisine of the region is celebrated. eyes like an eagle and is one of the best guides The crew of Stolli’s dive center will offer you a for discovering sea horses. distinct and fulfilling atmosphere—both below Scorpion fishes, Octopuses, Sepias, Groupers, and above the waterline. Conger and Morays can be seen while diving at Tamariu. Travel information There are two dive sites that are the favorites Tamariu is situated in the northeast region of of Stolli and his team. The Tamariu reef with its Spain, just 80 kilometres south of the French Spanish name “Cala Nova”, is probably one of frontier. It lies in the centre of the Costa Brava. the most exciting dive spots on Costa Brava. The capital of this region is , an old city The reef has five parallel running gulches; they whose old mediaeval centre is worth a visit. are various in width and covered excessively Costa Brava starts in the north at the French with Gorgones and Zoanthids. Groupers of border at Port Bou and runs down to , all dimensions, crawfish, swarms of breams the capital of . and Barracuda can often be seen here, and Costa Brava is not an all-year destination. for observers of “small” things and macro Although it has the mild Mediterranean climate photographers, nudibranchs in all kinds of colors most of the year, the really cosy times start and forms can be seen. The reef begins with 12 in the beginning of May. The tourist season metres of depth and goes down to 40 metres. finishes at the end of October. Sometimes

68 X-RAY MAG : 25 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED pearls of the Tamariu mediterranean “Come and see us!” Stolli, Mary and Tom and Ade are proud to offer individual service and a very friendly atmosphere

timetables can be Creus (www.ullaundpaul.de). On the house on the main road of the town, found at www.sarfa. way back to Tamariu, you should visit you will recognize that La Bisbal is com. the Dalí museum in , Dalí’s one of the biggest pottery centres The best way hometown. The museum is located in in Catalonia. Thousands of pottery to reach the an old theatre, and it is here where products and ceramic artworks are destinations and the first works of the famous painter displayed directly on the main road— have mobility during were shown to public. Dalí himself an invitation to stop and take a closer the visit is to rent a restored the building in 1960. It had look at the ceramic shops in town. car. Cars can be been bombed and destroyed during Well, if you are a diver, your heart rented directly from the Spanish civil war. It re-opened its might be bleeding by now, but a Barcelona’s airport doors to the public in 1974. After his look into the market hall of with really good death on January 23, 1989 in Girona, (early in the morning from 6 am) is terms, for example, Dali was buried in his hometown of very interesting and certainly shows a one week in May Figueres in the crypt of his museum. bigger offer of fish than you will ever starts at 119 Euro. Check out La Bisbal. It’s a city you see on your dives. This visit should A mid-class car will pass on your way to Tamariu be combined with market day in (Peugeot 107) rents anyway, and you will immediately be Palafrugell on Monday. It’s a typical the “Tramuntana” brings windy or season and late-summer, the water for 159,50 Euro including insurance caught by its unique presentation of Spanish market with a wide range of even stormy days. That’s why you temperature reaches 23°C to 24°C. and unlimited kilometres for seven the fine art widely produced here. products and many impressions and should bring along a pullover and The security system of the dive centre days at www.carbookers.com. From the moment you reach the first views into the Catalonian soul. ■ a windbreaker, especially early in works perfectly. Decompression the season. April and May normally chambers are located in Palamos— What you must see are good months for diving. During only a few kilometres from Tamariu Of course the medieval cities of the main season in July and August, and Barcelona. and Peratallada are a must-see. If the diving centres are empty, but By car on the highway, take the you are interested in the arts you the beaches are overcrowded. “Autopista del Mediterrani” leaving should do the trip to Cadaqués. It’s Another reason not to go there in Girona-Nord, follow the C66 to La another lovely pearl close to the these months is that all the bays look Bisbal and Palafrugell. In Palafrugell- French border. The famous painter, like parking lots in front of a football Montras, turn left into Avinguda Salvador Dalí, lived there. You can stadium because they are occupied de Espanya. After 2km, turn right visit his house in the little bay of Port by hundreds of sport boats that bop into Carrer de Bruguerol (GIV-6542) Lligat and see a set of fishing huts up and down on their buoys in the heading to Tamariu. After 2.5km, that Dalí renovated. It is here where water. No space for swimming. follow GIV-6542 on the left side into he based his summer home and Stolli’s dive centre is open from Carrer de la Perica until you reach workshop. The estate has a maze- Easter to the end of October. Stolli’s Tamariu centre. like structure with different areas on team can give you a hand in finding Two airport are close to this region. different levels where Dalí’s furniture an apartment, house or hotel room. Girona airport is only served by some and personal objects are preserved. The best time for diving is April until carriers such as Ryanair. From Girona (book reservations beforehand). mid-June and September through airport, a bus shuttle drives to the If you stay for a night and are October. Water temperatures start at coast. Barcelona International Airport still interested in good diving in 13°C in April, but soon get warmer. is about 100 kilometres away from Cadaqués, you’ll find the dive centre In April until mid-June, a dry suit is . The bus ride of Ulla and Paul Bräutigam right next comfortable, a semi dry suit is okay, from Barcelona (Estació del Nord) to the Dalí house. The diving centre and wet suits are only for the really to Palafrugell takes two hours and offers dive trips to the fantastic dive rugged types. During the main cost 15 Euro. More information and spots of the national park of Cape de

69 X-RAY MAG : 25 : 2008 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glonsl msp highlights Bay of Biscay location of Span (right) Gijón Santander FRANCE A Coruña Map of Spain highlights Bilbao location of Tamariou AND. Vigo PYRENEES on Costa Brava León fact file (far right) Zaragoza Tamariu Barcelona Tamariu, Spain Calella Valladolid Tarragona Balearic MADRID S Castellón Sea ND LA del la Plana IS PORTUGAL C RI Tagus Valencia A LE A B Palma source: harald apelt, cia world fact book de Olivenza Alicante Mallorca Córdoba Murcia History The powerful world Ocean 0 m. Highest point: Pico de other religions 6%. Inter- Sevilla Cartagena Mediterranean Sea empire of Spain in the 16th and Teide (Tenerife) on Canary Islands net users: 18.578 million Granada Huelva 17th centuries saw the nation take 3,718 m. Spain holds a strategic (2006) Cadiz Málaga command of the seas to England. location along approaches to Algeciras However, Spain failed to embrace the Strait of Gibraltar. Calella de The official lan- Gibraltar (UK) Language Strait of Gibraltar Ceuta (SP) the industrial and mercantile Palafrugell is situated in the north- guage is Castilian Spanish, 74%. ALGERIA Peñon de Velez Melilla (SP) revolutions, which caused the it to east of Spain, just 80 kilometres Catalan 17%, Galician 7%, Basque NORTH de la Gomera ATLANTIC (SP) fall behind Britain, Germany and south of the French frontier and 2%, are official on a regional basis. OCEAN France in political and economic lies in the centre of Costa Brava. MOROCCO power. During the two world wars, The capital of this region is Girona, Visas & Permits All members Spain remained neutral, but suf- an old city whose old medieval of Schengen countries of the fered devastating during its own center is worth visiting. Costa European community need only a civil war from 1936 to 1939. After Brava starts in the north end at valid identity card. Visitors from all the death of dictator Francisco the French border at Port Bou and other countries need a passport Franco in 1975, there was a ends down at Barcelona in the and a classic visa. peaceful transition to democ- south, the capital of Catalonia. racy. In 1986, Spain joined the EU. Medical For diving, one always Rapid economic modernization Environmental issues needs a valid medical certificate has given Spain one of the most Deforestation and desertification; of diving capability (up to the age dynamic economies in Europe. It air pollution; water quantity and of 40, valid for two years; from the has become a global champion quality nationwide; pollution of the age of 40, valid for only one year). of freedom. However, challenges Mediterranean Sea from effluents Underage divers need to have including Basque Fatherland and from the offshore production of oil a written permission from their Liberty (ETA) terrorism, illegal immi- and gas and raw sewage. parents. gration, and slowing economic growth continue to hamper the Climate temperate; clear, hot Divers Insurance: For diving at government. Government: par- summers in interior, more mod- the Costa Brava, one needs to liamentary monarchy. Capital: erate and cloudy along coast; have valid accident and liability- Madrid cloudy, cold winters in interior, insurance for divers (covering partly cloudy and cool along the costs of treatment in a Geography Spain is located in coast. decompression chamber). southwestern Europe. It borders the North Atlantic Ocean, the Currency Euro. Exchange rates: Websites Mediterranean Sea, Bay of Biscay, 1 EUR = 1.48 USD, .74 GBP, 158.13 Stolli’s Dive Base and the Pyrenees Mountains in the JPY, 1.47 CAD, 1.66 AUD, 2.09 SGD www.stollis-divebase.de ■ southwest of France. Coastline: 4,964 km. Terrain: large, flat to Population 40,448,191 (July 2007 The dive boat Gabriela divided plateau surrounded by est.) Ethnic groups: composed of is more than 75 years old rugged hills and the Pyrenees to Mediterranean and Nordic types. but still in great condition. the north. Lowest point: Atlantic Religions: Roman Catholic 94%, It can carry 15 divers to the spots outside Tamariu

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