.~

making the most 'I of your bank . ' ---. how to really get a nest egg

What's your Savings Account like? Do you really save money in it, or are you leaning a bit heavily on the old cheque­ book?

Why not open a real Savings Account at The Bank of Nova Scotia. Tuck a few dollars into it every payday and leave it there. In a short time you'll have a sizeable nest egg for the more important rhings you wish to buy.

• A SIGN OF GOOD FRIENDSHIP

M-302. EWART YOUNG, Editor & Publisher

BRIAN CAHILL. Associate Editor THE MAGAZINE OF NEWFOUNDLAND

CHARLES CLAY. MARCH, 1951 Vol. VIII, No.3 Ottawa Editor G. W. JEFFr'::'R PICTORIAL FEATURE FARMVILLE VA S. A. R. SCAMMELL. The Great Hunt , 24 RON POLLETT, Contributing Editors By Michael F. Harrington

SPECIAL ARnCLE Is Newfoundland Overpopulated?. 14 J. H. SAUNDERS By H. B. Mayo Business Manager MAN OF THE MONTH E. C. BOONE. J. W. Allan of Furness Withy... 32 Board of Trade Building, St. John's GENERAL ARTICLES NOd. Manager Herring Neck .. 21 By W. A. Dawe

Atlantic Guardian is pubHshed by Guard· The Wreck of the Fanny Wright . 38 ian Associates Ltd.. By Michael P. Murphy 1541 Mackay Street, Montreal 25, Que. Authorized as Second A. G. Flashbacks: Capture of Mary March 42 Class Moil, Post Office Dept., Ottawa. Subscription rat e s POETRY $2.00 a year any­ where in the world. Thoughts of a Newfoundlander .. 18 Single copies 20c. Memories of an Old-time Sealer .. 30 Printed by The Tri­ bune Press Ltd.. Sack­ ville N. B., Canada. DEPARTMENTS Guardian Angles. by Brian Cahill... 3 The Editor's Page.... 13 MEMBER. AUDIT BUR­ Newfoundland Crossword . 35 EAU OF CIRCULATIONS. Newfoundland as Others See It. 37

Picture Credits: Page 8-F. M. Cox; Pages 24, 25, 26, 27 -R. L. Stephenson; Page 28-Courtesy W. A. Dawe; Page 29-Ern Maunder; Page 32-Marshall Studio.

Cover Picture: Able Seaman Eric Udle of SI. Atlantic Guardian's Platform John's was with the R.C.N. in Korean waters To make Newfoundland better when it became necessary for him to fly half­ known at home and abroad; way around the world to be at the bedside of his mother who died shortly after his To promote trade and travel in arrival home. This R.C.N. photo shows A.B. the Island; Ud-Ie watching a plane from the British carrier To encourage development of thl" Thereus pass overhead as he stands lookout Island's natural resources; watch on H.M.C.S. Cayuga's bridge during To foster good relations between the Chinnampo operation. Note the smoke of Nf.'wbundland ~nd her neighc():s. battle in the background. Shop at !ie?J-

• IN PERSON • BY MAIL • BY 'PHONE • BY WIRE AYRE & SONS LTO. ST. JOHN'S NEWFOUNDLAND'S GREAT MAIL ORDER HOUSE AND LARGEST DEPARTMENT STORE TO AMBITIOUS YOUNG NEWFOUNDLANDERS

A BUSINESS COURSE is a valuable traLnlng and asset to a person DO matter what pro­ fession or occupation they may decide to make their life work.

OUT Standard of Training has been maintained during the war years and is continuing on that high level with improve· ments and addi· lions where and Iwhen possible. • E\'f'n the "silent service" speaks up when the subject is );ewfound­ Information free land. on request Among the many letters we re­ cf'ived since last deadline is one from W.A. STECH, CA. HALiFAX. Principal N••• Anthony MacDermott, Commander, R.N., late senior naval officer, New­ foundland, of :Milford House, Lower Park Road, Camberley, Surrey. Commander MacDermott says he is "only a ~ewfoundlander by mar­ riage" and then goes on to display a knowledge of the island and its affairs that would put many a native son to shame. First he takes up the matter of an Eskimo curio shown in the article, Rebuilding the Museum, in our ~ov­ ember issue. We said we believed the object, from the collection of the late T. :\. ~1ac:\ab, was "some sort of a cooking utensil". The Commander is more specific. It is, he says, an Eskimo cooking b.mp. The fuel used was seal oil and the wick was moss. The food was cooked in another stone dish suspend­ Ask for your copy of "P~rJo"a/ P/aml;"~' ed over the flame. at your neighbourhood branch ... today. There's no obligation-uapt to yourle/I. "The stewing of a meal of seal meat might occupy 12 to 24 hours BANK OF MONTREAL with this primitive apparatus, the

MARCH. 1951 If you ore looking for 0 dignified ond pleosant way of earning "sparetime" money. investigate the possibility of becoming on Atlantic Guardian subscription representative. For full details. write to: GUARDIAN ASSOCIATES LTD. P.O. Box E-5434, SI. John's.

Exporters: FISH and FISHERY HARVEY PRODUCTS ud Compuy Limited TRAVEL AGENTS ST JOHN'S. H(W.OUNDLAHD

OFFICE IN NEWFOUNDLAND HOTEL TEL. 3062-3

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Established• 1882 • Cordage. White and Cotton Seine, Twine, Tarred Bonking Cobles, Herring Nets and Nelling, Hemp and Commercial Wrapping Twines, Bolt Rope. White and Oakum, Culch. Tarred Collon lines, Wholesole only.

ATLANTIC GUARDIAN Commander says, but "a very old Eskimo assured me that the resulting mess was far better than food cooked in an iron pot I brought several of these lamps and pots up from Northern Labrador and Baffin Land and gave them to the late Mr. PIll} Knowling when I left the coun­ try." Commander .MacDermott the n takes up the matter of the "last duel" fought in Newfoundland between Capt. Rudkin and Ensign Philpott. Our story said Captain Rudkin was ~et free by the jury after Ensign WORLD'S LARGEST Philpott was killed. But, the Com­ mander says, not so. He was found MANUFACTURERS guilty of manslaughter and later, apparently, pardoned by the Gov­ ernor. And in regard to the photostat of of finest what we said was believed to be the oldest land grant in Newfoundland­ dated 171 I. The Commander says NEWFOUNDLAND he believes the oldest grant, going back to the 17th century, was held by the Dawes family of, he thinks, Har­ MEDICINAL bor Grace. Having thus wiped our eye three COD LIVER OIL times Commander MacDermott re­ lents somewhat and comments kindly on our cover picture showing an old cannon on Gun Hill, Trinity. Very EXPORTED ALL OVER THE interesting, he says, but if you really are interested in old cannon it might WORLD IN STEEL DRUMS pay you to get a mine detector and go hunting about the ridge known as AND TIN-LINED BARRELS Frenchman's Camp, back of Frizell's on the St. John's-Bay Bulls road. He says there were a number of very interesting cannon abandoned there by the French when they werc mak­ w. A. MUNN &CO., ing their way across country from LIMITED Bay Bulls to attack St. John's in the 18th century_ "The present generation of Frizells St. John's Newfoundland do not seem to know where they are," says the Commander in a restrained

MARCH. 1951 manner, "but 40 years ago there were "From a Caplin to a Whale" several old men who had seen these Exporters of Kippers-Smoked. guns.· a mine detector might be Caplin-Canned. Frozen, Smoked. useful in searching for them," Salmon-Fresh Frozen. Halibut-Canned. • The little story about the Captain Lobster-Live and Canned. FORT AMHERST SEA FOODS and the Ensign and their duel on the bank of Rennie's River also brought St. John's Newfoundland us a letter from an old friend in the person of Richard F. 'Watson of 1612 Bolton Street, Baltimore, Maryland. Mr. Watson says: "We lived on Rennie's Mill Road back in the eighties" and was well acquainted wi th the neighborhood where the duel was fought. He then goes on to make a pun that we are vcry sorry we cannot print in this family journal. Something about never being able to forget the old dam by the mill site or the old mill by a damsite. Too bad we can't pass it on but the ("ditor is vny strict about those things. Mr. Watson says further: "The article regarding that inter· esting collection of antiques held by the Kielly family is a valuable addi­ tion to your issue. We lived on Monkstown Road before settling on Rennie's Mill Road, our house heing one of three occupied by Captain Philip Cleary, Ellis C. Watson and Alan Goodridge. If the knocker on the door of the middle house (which was bought by my father back in the seventies) is still there it should be taken down and shipped to me 3.S I remember how grieved I was that th(" old man should have moved to reside on another street and left the knocker Telephone 6247 P.O. Box 5015E for othn hands. This was back in ,881." William J. Ryan, M.R.A.I.C. • Let's stop for a few moments and look at a couple of pictures. ARCHITECT Here's a pretty young Newfound­ l.A. Building lander engaged, or perhaps entanglpd Duckworth Street 51. John's I I is a better word, in a typical New- ATLANTIC GUARDIAN SALT CODFISH FROM ALL OVER NEWFOUNDLAND SHIPPED TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD

• Salt Importers

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MARCH. 1951 foundland pastime, The fishcrwoman is Miss Sylvia Da\\n Cox, three, daughter of :Mr. and Mrs. F. M. Cox of Port aux

BROOKFIELD ICE CREAM LIMITED St. John's Corner Brook

Basques. And hcrc is young Sylvia again this time accompanied by representatives of thr('(' other generations of the Cox bmily.

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Cable Address-

"GRANDFISH"

ATLANTIC GUARDIAN They are, says Mr. F. M. Cox 'who sent us the pictures (we had to get a male of the family in here some­ where) : Mrs. Harris of 72 Merrv­ meeting R03d, St. John's; her daugh­ ter, ~frs. B. Rowsell ~ her daughter, Mrs. F. M. Cox and her daughter ~ Sylvia. Quitc a family. ~ • We have no less than two letters ~/II'-_. from Richard Bugden of 46 Morri­ son ..-\venue, Toronto who, in com­ ~ mon with Commander ~lacDennott, P«dd4 ...... ==,..- above, was happy to see the :'\ovem­ ber cover picture of th'e old cannon EASTERN PACKING (0., LTD. SOURIS· PRINCE EDWAlD ISLAND on Gun Hill, Trinity. Mr. Bugden says that he himself, with a number of other youths of Trinity, put that very gun, and two J. T. SWYERS CO., LTD. othci's, there many years ago. He says the guns were part of the English defenses of Trinity during the Eng­ IMPORTERS OF lish-French wars and wefe rolled into Provisions, Hardware, the sea near Fort Point Battery when Dry Goods, Coal, etc. the French captured the port at one time. The gllns lay in the sea for many EXPORTERS OF years until one day Mr. Bugden and Dried Codfish, Fresh some other boys pulled them out and with a great deal of trouble and in­ and Pickled Salmon, renuity set them up on Gun Hill, or Pickled Herring and Rider's Hill as it is also called. Turbot, Caplin, In his second letter Mr. Bugden Dried Squid, g-ives a different, and we think a Cod Liver Oil, much more interesting version of the Lignon Berries, lowly old ballad, She's Like the S',yallow, featured by Colleague Art etc. Sc:!mmell in Folk Songs and Yarns, in 'ovember. Mr. Bugden's version goes like this: ht-'s like the swallow that flies so high, Sh("s like the rivrr that never runs d,s, ht" like the waves beating on a l"a BONAVISTA hore, NEWFOUNDLAND I\'!' lost my love and I'll love: no ESt "BUSHED IN \ 894 morC'.

MARCH, 1951 'Twas out in the garden this poor ESTABLISHED 1901 girl went J. B. MITCHELL & SON, A-picking the flowers that there was LTD. spread. Commission Merchants & &rokers The more she picked, the mOTC she WATER STREET EAST pulled, ST. JOHN'S Until she gathered her apron full.

And out of the flowers she made her bed, A snowy-white pillow all for her head. She laid herself down and nevennorc spoke Alas, poor girl! her heart was broke.

Her heart was broke and her corpse "A Memorial is a lay cold; Prayer in Stone" It was unto her true love I told it so. I'm glad, I'm glad, I'm glad, said he, Muir's Marble Works ltd. That she had thought so much of me. Muir Building, St. John's A man is not born for one alone, THE MODERN UPTOWN (the cad!) DEPARTMENT STOR ES He takes a liking for many a one. She's like the sunshine on the lea Fruit Meats shore Fresh Frozen I've lost my love and I'll love no more. Fish Groceries And when I go home I'll write a song, Dry Goods I'll write it wide and I'll write it Novelties Notions long, Smallwares And every line I'll shed a tear, And every verse recall, my dear. Mens, Womens, C hildrens Wear That's a really fine old song-one the folk singers should be interested The Two-Way Stores Ltd. in. Mr. Bugden thinks there are a couple of other verses and wonders Golf & St.C lare Avenues, if anyone knows them . St.John's Dial 5194, 5195 • \Vonder if we have space left for

10 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN a couple of quick ones-letters that I is. Let's try it anyway. All types of Three fans of Ron Pollett send in raves about their boy. They arc F. CASUALTY INSURANCE D. Roberts, 15 Dalcwood Crescent, Westdale, Hamilton, Ont.; Gordon AND BONDS May, 327 Cambridge Street, Ottawa; and W. K. LeDrew, 49 Day Ave., Toronto. Love that outport! Frances O'l':eill Bridger, born J. K. LAC EY Trepassy; educated Littledale; nurse RESIDENT MANAGER at General Hasp., St. John's; three years in New York; now living at UNITED STATES FIDELITY Ketch's Harbor, 1 • S., with husband whom married in 1926; husband AND GUARANTY COMPANY manager of Government Marine Radio Station, Halifax j scotsman born in Honk Kong; three daughters; City Chambers, 241 Water Street nice bungalow named Glen Reay; ST. JOHN'S, NFlD. sends greetings to all friends in New­ foundland. Greetings to you too, FranCC5. N. K. Wight, principal of Bishop's Falls Amalgamated School tells us NEWFOUNDLAND RECORDS that for the past two years he has 1. The Six Horse-Power Cooker solved his Christmas gift problem by Squarin' Up giving all members of the staff sub­ 2. The Shooting of the 80wks scriptions to Atlantic Guardian. 3. Th. Squid-Jiggin' Ground Go thou and do likewise. The Caplin Haul

A. ]. O'Brien, 976-75th Street, 4. The Ryans and the Pittmans Brooklyn, 28, X. Y. wants to know Jack was Every Jnch a Sailor "What happened to Placentia Bay?" 5. The Kelligrews Soire. Says we never did do a travel story lultey's Boot of that part of the country despite promise. PRICE $1.00 EACH, PLUS 15c. FOR PACKING. We're working on it! Also sheet music of The Squid­ Mrs. E. J. Bryan, 296 Fulton Jiggin' Ground---50c. a copy. Street, Medford, Mass., thinks we are wonderful. If not available locally, order from Aw, Shucks! A. R. SCAMMELL

3414 SHUTEI STREET, ArT. NO. 10, MONTIEAL, QUEaEC.

MARCH, 1951 11 BOWRING BROTHERS LIMITED

N NEWFOUNDLAND'S OLDEST \ and most progressive DEPARTMENT STORE Special Mail Order division for out-of-town \ customers. \ \0 EXPORT INDUSTRIES DIVISiON ~\ Specialists in Seal Skins, Furrier Skins, Seal Leathers, Seal and other Marine Oils, Hides. \ WHOLESALE DISTRIBUTORS 5 of Ory Goods, Hardware, Builders. Plumbing and Heating Supplies, Provisions & Groceries. ESTABLISHED 1B11 ST. JOHN'S NEWFOUNDLAND S HIPPING AND INSURANCE Shipowners, Operators, Agents, Northern Wire or write "30WRING, ST. JOHN'S" Charters. Agents for L10yds of london. Fire, Telephone 3131 Casualty and Marine Insurance.

ri~~~7M&~'P~ The coarse screen balhoDes • 55 and 65 I,ne finer· 100 and 120 acreen halftones are for screen· are used In daily newspaper. usiag smooth coated paper. There IS • b.J1lOne ~::ar:cier:n··.~· {:dMa:~:~nF~n~:re~~ I~~ftoa:; ::rl:c:nft:::;:7, t~~::s· c:i~el:ob.u/f~::~:: Newsprint when used on a Flat bed press. The graving. for advertising. EASTERN PHOTO ENGRAVERS LTD. I BUCKINGHAM STREET·· HALIFAX·, NOVA SCOTIA

12 ATLANTIC GUARD?AN The Editor's Page • PAGING THE WEATHERMAN!

"HEN Montrealers were shivering in a minimum temperature of 8 W below zero on the last day of January this year, their fellow Canadians in St. John's, Nfld., were going about their business in a relatively comfortable temperature that ranged [rom a low of 21 to a high of 30. Only one place in the whole of Canada on that day, accord­ ing to the Dominion Weather Bureau, had higher minimum and maximum temperatures than Sl. John's--Victoria, B. C. (24 and 22). Ottawa registered 30 below and 11 above and Toronto 4 and 27. Four days later, when sub-zero temperatures were still prevalent across Canada, St. John's registered a high of 55-9 degrees above Victoria's maximum, 26 degrees warmer than Toronto and 31 degrees higher than Ottawa's maximum of 14. If those mainlanders who seem to have the mistaken idea that Newfoundlanders are obliged to live in igloos to keep warm during the winter months would only take the trouble to look at the weather statistics printed in their newspapers from day to day, they would soon realize that the lOth Province enjoys a most temperate climate both winter and summer-possibly the most moderate season by season on the whole North American continent. It is true that Newfoundland does not have June in January as in such places as the Bahamas and Florida, but we do have June in June which is much more logical, and sensibly in keeping with the calendar. We rest our weathe case on the free-to-all statistics of the Domin­ ion \Veather Bureau. Doubting Thomases please note.

• "LOVER'S LANE IS OPEN TO TRAFFIC!

E ARE greatly intrigued by a letter-to-the-editor, printed in a W recent issue of the Twillingate Sun, in which an irate citizen who had no hesitation in signing his own name pleaded for repairs to cer­ tain neglected roads in the town and off-handedly posed a honey of a question for the Department of Public Works: "Does the Deputy Min­ ister know that some of this money (a $10,000 grant for the re-con­ ditioning of Twil1ingate roads) was spent on our local "Lover's Lane" where not one single person is living, and where in daytime little life is seen on the road exce:>t a sparrow searching for worms?" Obviously some romantic soul o~ the Roads Committee is respons­ ible for this alleged ftate of affairs, since no politician \..... ould initiate re­ pairs to a piece of road alongside which no voters live. As we said at the beginning. we are vastly intrigued by the whole thing. Beyond that we have no comment one way or another.

MJI.RCH. 1951 13 THE FUTURE OF NEWFOUNDLAND

EWFOUNDLAND has now N been a province of Canada Dr. Mayo's controversial for almost two years, and it article suggests for Newfound­ would be interesting to examine what the effects of Confederation land a future in which the have been. An even more import­ population should be 100,000 ant question however, as we face less than now, with most of the second half of the twentieth the Island being converted century, is: What kind of a future into a National Park. While lies before Newfoundland? This question is not easy to answer not necessarily agreeing with with any degree of reliability. his viewpoint we publish Dr. Mayo's article in the hope that On the one hand, some people see the province growing in pop­ it will provoke further com­ ulation and prosperity, with all ment on the important and the improvements in health, edu­ interesting question of New­ cation and other public services, foundland's future. H. B. that prosperity can bring. It is a Mayo, M.A., D.Phil., is a native pleasant and rosy picture - but painted from a one-sided view. of Fortune, Nfld., a Rhodes From another viewpoint may be Scholar, and a graduate of seen a future in which the popu­ Memorial ' University College, lation is growing faster than jobs Dalhousie University, and Ox­ can be found; with thousands of ford University. He is at pre­ fishermen under-employed and earning less than a decent liveli­ sent Professor of Political hood. Let us explore this second Economy and Acting Head of prospect, seeking the reasons for the Department of Political it, and seeing where it leads. Economy at the University of Consider first the population Alberta, Edmonton, Alta. ­ figures. Newfoundland is a pro­ Editor. vince of large families and, as in many countries, large families ity, but even these are quite over­ usually go with low living shadowed by the high birth rate. standards. The birth rate is ex­ The rate of natural increase (ex­ ceptionally high for the western cess of births over deaths) is thus world, averaging 31.5 for the also high, and amounts nowadays years 1942-46. True, the death to some 8,000 persons a year. This rate is also high, especially from yearly natural increase may well tuberculosis and infantile mortal- become more as the death rate is

14 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN by H. B. MAYO

brought down by the steady im­ The rest of the increasing popu­ provements in social and medical lation remained in Newfoundland, services, unless of course the and for the most part were ab­ effect of these should be offset by sorbed into the newer industries a most unlikely event - a large - mining, and pulp and paper fall in the birth rate. making-with the associated log­ ging - while some entered com­ What has happened in the past merce and the small secondary to the extra people coming onto industries. They did not go into the labour market every year? fishing, because as the census fig­ Some of them have emigrated, ures show, the number of fisher­ chiefly to Canada and the United men has been on the decline at States. Despite popular notions least since 1911. to the contrary, rather more have gone to Canada than to the United This drift away from the fish­ States. This trek of emigrants eries - which however still form abroad started a long time ago, the island's largest industry - is for even in the 1860's consider­ highly significant. It went on for able numbers of Newfoundland the simple reason that except -in girls used to go to domestic ser­ abnormal times, notably during vice in Boston. and just after the two world wars, the fishermen could never earn a People have left the island proper living. In the 1920's espec­ largely because they wanted to ially, while fish prices were better their lot, and the industrial roughly "normal", fishermen (and and other development of New­ the country generally) were kept foundland was not proceeding fast going by lavish relief expendi­ enough to provide them all with tures, disguised as outlays on pub­ decent jobs. It was not a ques­ lic works such as roads, harbors tion of emigrating when times and bridges, all of which was were bad. In fact it was the other made possible by large govern­ way around: they left Newfound­ ment borrowings from abroad. land in periods of relative pros­ This was the period, it may be perity, such as the 1920's; and recalled, w hen Newfoundland when times were really hard, as borrowed on the average some during the general depression of $4.8 million a year, with the re­ the 1930's, there was a net immi­ sult that the public debt was gration into the country, as many doubled in the space of 12 years. Newfoundlanders were forced by the depression on the mainland to 4S Quintals of Codfish return to their homes. The chief reason for the fisher-

MARCH. 1951 15 man's low income even in rela­ of the individual fisherman up to tively good years, is the low aver­ a tolerable level. But this solu­ age catch per man. And this in tion has the result that more turn is the result of the methods efficient methods, such as the use of fishing, especially in the shore of larger vessels and trawlers in­ fishery, which accounts for the stead of the present small boats greater part of the catch and em­ and dories, would yield the same ploys some 80% of the fishermen. total catch with perhaps a third Newfoundland statistics are nQt of the present number of fisher­ always adequate, but they show man. The other two thirds-even that the average catch is roughly assuming their addition to the between 40 and 50 quintals of catch would not depress prices-­ fish. and often drops lower in poor would be no better off than now. years. It is higher of course in Re-organization of this kind other branches such as the bank would therefore not solve the fishery, which helps to explain problem for most of the fIsher­ why the bank fishermen earn men, and might even aggravate it. more. The basic problem of the New­ The returns from, say, 45 foundland fisheries, the low catch quintals of fish may have been per man, has received surprising­ enough for the fisherman to live ly little attention. Instead the on in the 19th century, although trouble has often been diagnosed even that is debatable, since pUb­ as one of "lack of markets"-that lic relief has always been a mark­ is, of markets paying a price ed feature of Newfoundland's higher than competitors ask or finances - but it is certainly not need. The fishery policies adopt­ enough in the 20th century. To­ ed by governments, not being day the fisherman expects and based on the right diagnosis, have quite rightly, a higher standard of perpetuated the older inefficient living than his grandfather en­ methods of fishing, and hence the joyed: he also expects more gov­ low living standards of the fisher­ ernment services, but the taxation men. One may sympathize with to support these cannot be ex­ governments of the past, and it is tracted from the returns on 45 har:! to see how they could have quintals of co:!fish. done otherwise; but that does not make their policies the right ones The problem is not materially in terms of what is best in the altered by a turn away from dried long run. cod markets to fresh and frozen cod, nor by the provision of bait So much for the fisheries. What depots. In themselves the s e are the prospects for employment changes do not greatly affect in other industries? The mining methods of fishing. True, a industry employs some 4,000 per­ wholesale reorganization of fish­ sons, and given reasonable mar­ ing methods would no doubt raise ket conditions, can be expected to the average catch per man and continue in fair prosperity. Much thus aid in bringing the income geological surveying and pro-

16 ATLANTIC GUArmAN specting have been carried out in rect, the future of Newfoundland Newfoundland, but the results are would seem to be something like meagre, and justify only the ex­ this: the airport, the mines, and pectation for a few more small the pulp-and-paper industry can mines. The exception to this is continue to give their limited the Labrador iron are, but even amount of employment and to that is not likely to absorb, from support a few towns, and p"erhaps Ne-wfoundland, more than the undergo relatively small expan­ natural increase in population for sion. The fisheries, if they are to a year or two. The airport can continue at all at above subsist­ employ only 2,000 or so. Pulp ence level, must be modernized. and paper making and logging Catching must be shifted to larger employ say 12,000 and the forests vessels capable of offshore fishing can support at most the equiva­ and centred in a few large ports lent of another medium sized on the ice-free south· coast. This paper mill, and like the Labrador would have the advantages of ore, would only relieve the popu­ raising the catch per man, of lation pressure for a short time. lengthening the earning season, All other occupations - in trade, of more easily utilizing by-pro­ finance, agriculture, and manu­ dUcts, and of ensuring more reg­ facturing for the home market­ ular supplies of fresh and frozen are purely secondary and deriva­ fish for the markets. But it will tive. They can expand only as need fewer men, perhaps not the basic industries expand. more than one-third of the pre­ sent number, and hence leave the' rest to exist on low earnings, com­ More People Than Jobs bined with family allowances and relief. Newfoundland's inescapable problems may be summed up Obviously there is only one thus: Every year the population solution left, if many Newfound­ is growing by several thousand. landers do not wish to have a Industrial expansion in sight can­ mere subsistence standard of liv­ not provide jobs for that number, ing, and that is emigration. And and at best can take the surplus this applies not only to the bulk of a few years. The fisheries are of the fishermen, but also to the not even now yielding a decent natural increase in population in Iiving for those engaged in them, other industries and occupations. and if drastically re-organized Fortunately, since Confederation would leave the bulk of the fisher­ the door into the rest of Canada men untouched. There is thus is wide open and not merely ajar always heavy economic pressure as it was before. to drive men away from the fisheries at the first opportunity. But unfortunately, opportunities A population of 250,000 of alternative jobs in Newfound­ The end result might well be land do not occur. that the population of Newfound­ If this line of reasoning is cor- land would stabilize at roughly

MARCH. 1951 17 Thoughts of a Newfoundlander on the Second Anniversary of Confederation

The painter, b'layed by Gilbert, The hazards Neptune set, now is cut. And thus the adventure was re­ Our little rodney that was towed ward, A year for every day of Earth's But lacked the guerdon others Great journey 'round the sun, prize. Uses the self same painter, But to anchor where she has a This lack, we ask our friends right. To rate, not with contumely; We are not drones nor passengers; While on this voyage of time, We'll stand the watch, and peer Though tied, we also rowed; Across the present murky age, And in the balance of accounts Sensing with prescient alarm Can claim a modest credit Some menace not yet tangible. In the "Price of Admiralty". Henceforth we are, Oh Canada, This claim, though laggingly be­ The guardian of the gate-the stowed, sentinel, We debit not our new found Your king and ours the same, as mates. ere. With them we freely board the Argosy No acrimonious memories gnaw Theirs, and now ours. our souls, They, not as grasping creditors, For us the bitter hates and pains Nor we as mendicants. Of fratricidal war were spared; In common cause we toiled, and Their sylvan land, with summer's died, and wept. gracious sun Your immolated dead-and ours­ Gave of her fruits less grudgingly Lie side by side-their graves than ours; A holy symbol to their foreign While we, in frugal discipline did hosts. run -C. R. H.

250,000 - say about 100,000 less outports that are so characteristic than the present figure. This of Newfoundland life? The re­ population would tend to concen­ grettable but inescapable conclu­ trate in the few industrial towns sion is that most of these settle­ and in the larger fishing ports and ments must be abandoned. A indeed should be encouraged to few, like Francois or Pouch Cove do so. This brings up what is and some others which it would perhaps the most controversial be invidious to mention here, part of my analysis: What is to might be preserved as show pieces happen to all the hundreds of tiny for the tourists, and as relics of a

18 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN picturesque but outmoded way of long remain that way if the popu­ life. St. John's might continue as lation increased greatly each year, the capital and as a port, but and if the surplus stayed at home would decline in importance and and pressed upon the means of population as the centre of grav­ subsistence. ity shifted to the west and south coasts. There is, in any case, al­ Other observers have contem­ ready taking place a relative shift plated much the same future for in population to the west coast. Newfoundland as that sketched above. A former Commissioner The remainder of the island of Natural Resources once stated could eventually be turned into a that, unless drastic re-organiza­ huge National Park, administered tion of the fisheries occurred, on by the Parks Service of the Dom­ the lines laid down in the govern­ inion Government. Newfoundland ment's ambitiolls plan of 1944, would then be left with the larg­ then "save for a few isolated cen­ est accessable area of unspoiled tres, Newfoundand would have to fishing and hunting country in the be abandoned". That drastic world, and if only roads enough change has of course not occurred, were built it could become a and his conclusion would seem to tourists paradise, especially for follow. the sportsman who likes to rough it, to live in tents and cook his This analysis is doubtless too own food, and to get down to the brief and superficial, and too full serious business of fishing and of generalizations; a much fuller shooting. The fame of the New­ foundland trout and salmon, part­ examination of the facts and pro­ ridge and caribou would ensure spects is needed before other that the Park is well patronized. alternatives are ruled out. Then That kind of a Park would not, too, I have deliberately avoided of course, support a large resident any discussion of the ways and population and hence the tourist means by which the future out­ traffic could not be any solution lined could be achieved with the of Newfoundland's problem. minimum of cost and dislocation - which is perhaps the trickiest To some, this kind of future problem of all. may sound gloomy. But is it really so bad after all? Ireland In some ways I hope this once had a much greater popula­ analysis may be proved wrong, tion than now, but emigration and for as much as anyone I should late marriages have brought the like to see Newfoundland both numbers down to a now stationary prosperous and populous. But level at which the people are experience shows that optimists better of!'. Prince Edward Island are not always right; and in my too has declined and now stabil­ view it is better to have in New­ ized at a small and apparently foundland 250,000 healthy and happy and prosperous population. prosperous people than twice that Neither of these islands would number at near-subsistence level.

MARCH. 1951 19 NE w F o u N o A N o PICTORIAL SOUVENIRS

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20 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN HERRING NECK by W. A. DAWE exist even now only in the imag­ ination. T IS said that the people of These boats carrying wor­ I Herring Neck use boats to go to shippers to the various churches bed. on a fine summer Sunday make This very beautiful fishing set­ an almost never-to-be-forgotten tlement with its rugged and sight. There are several churches varied scenery is sih,lated in Notre because of the very nature of the Dame Bay. It lies partly on three town and also to serve the four islands, New World Island, Ship different religious denominations. Island and Salt Harbor Island­ If we inciude Cobb's Arm which all three separated by v e r y is four miles from Sunnyside, the narrow tickles with interesting centre of the settlement, we can names: Starve Harbor Tickle runs count six schools and e i g h t between Ship Island and Salt churches. All the schools are of Harbor Island. which is separated the one-room variety, and each from the main island by the Gut. church receives due attention and Through the latter the boats so care. numerous in all the neighborhood At Cobb's Arm the Newfound­ can pass in safety if the Atlantic land Limestone Company has a outside is reasonably smooth and large quarry where the operations provided that the helmsman steers are carried on in a modern man­ quite carefully along a well-learn­ ner. The stone is shipped mainly ed line so as to keep in the safe to Botwood, the shipping-port for and narrow passageway. Grand Falls with its large pulp There are so many peninsulas and paper mill. Several schooners with such short and narrow isth ­ are kept quite busy all summer muses that it is quite possible to conveying the limestone to its travel for many miles round one destination. and then be but a few yards from Besides the place-names al­ the starting point. Therefore boats ready mentioned, others no less are used as perhaps nowhere else picturesque may be added: Too to cross the narrow fiords which Good Arm, Hatchet Harbor, Tur­ divide the town into several small key Shore, the Wallet, and Grave­ sections and at times completely yard Point. isolate each part from all others. Tradition has it that the name If a person living in, say, Green Herring Neck originated in the Cove on the South side of Gold­ long ago when herring were very son's Arm wishes to visit Sunny­ plentiful in the area and were side on the North side, he can do taken from the boats at the isth­ so by boat in about 20 minutes or mus separating Pike's Arm from less but to go by land the distance Goldson's Arm. This spot be­ would be about 8 miles through came known as the herring neck timber and over hills where roads and later gave its name to the

MARCH. 1951 21 whole settlement which is made Lewisporte, also makes it a port of up of several small places each call both ways. During the period separated from the other by the from January to April the mail sea and yet joined by it. follows a more or less overland In recent years a canal was cut route, although the couriers use to through the isthmus of herring good advantage the ice which dur­ fame and has proved very useful ing that time covers all the arms to the fishermen as it shortens the of the sea on the mail route. But distance to Sunnyside by many these brave men sometimes suffer miles and makes it possible to go great hardship, and toil strenuous­ there in almost any type of ly in the line of duty. This is weather. It is no longer neces­ especially true when the ice has sary to go around the very long not yet formed, and when it is not peninsula which juts out into the safe to use it. At those times the stormy Atlantic towards Change lack of roads works a real hard­ Islands, and from which one can ship on the men as well as for all see Bacalhao Island with its re­ those travelling to or from the volving light that seems to be a railhead, fifty or sixty miles away part of life at Herring Neck. at Lewisporte. Mail Once a Week Another point of interest about The name Sunnyside cecurs so Sunnyside is that it was here in often because the post and tele­ the year 1905 that Mr. (after­ graph offices are located there as wards Sir) W. F. Coaker formed well as two of the three firms the first unit of the Fishermen's doing business at Herring Neck. Protective Union which in sub­ These are George J. Carter Ltd. sequent years had such a pheno­ and a branch of the Fishermen's menal growth particularly along Union Trading Co. Ltd. The third, the east coast of Newfoundland. which is on Salt Harbor Island is Through the Union a great in­ an important subsidary of Earle fluence was exerted upon govern­ Sons & Co. Ltd. of Fogo. There mental affairs of the country. are also two cod liver oil fac­ Later the organization developed tories, one at Carter's, the other a mercantile set-up with numer­ at Earle's. ous branches to supply the needs Formerly, too, many schooners of the fishermen and to buy their were outfitted for the Labrador products. The head office and fishery but the number of these distributing centre was establish­ has dwindled seriously in recent ed at Port Union where the years to the present low figure of Fishermen's Advocate, formerly three or four only. the official organ of the party, is The mail is brought there once still being published weekly. a week from May to December by A Bridge of Ice the steamer which calls at Herring Herring Neck, too, has a bridge N,eck on the outward trip from connecting all its different parts. Lewisporte and inward to the This is a very great convenience same port about twelve hours and is periodically fully utilized. later. The S. S. Glencoe, plying In fact some people perhaps never fortnightly between St. John's and visit Sunnyside or some other part

22 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN except by the bridge. Unfortun­ reaches dark. Even when the ately this is usable for only a fishermen has returned to his few months, about three or four, stage with his day's catch he has sometimes less, each year. This not finished for he has to split and bridge is formed each year abso­ salt the fish at which he may be lutely free of cost to anybody and assisted by his wife and/or other there are no charges for repairs members of his family. In recent or maintenance. Yes, you guessed years he has often been consider­ it-the bridge is the frozen ocean. ably hampered in his operations And how the people look forward by the lack of suitable bait. Many to its coming. It disappears each men have had to use shellfish spring amid general regret by old gathered or laboriously dug from and young alike, tempered only the beaches in order to be able to by the thought that the fishing carryon at all. season is again knocking at the The knowledge of the sea­ door of each stage. bottom on the fishing grounds can As already stated, the main be regarded as almost uncanny in source of income is from the fish­ many cases, and the secrets are ing industry but when that fails, jealously guarded and are only as it sometimes does, the fisher­ revealed in moments of good man, to provide for the needs of cheer, or to some close relative or his family, often goes to the lum­ friend. Another secret not lightly berwoods during the late autumn divulged is the amount of each and winter but returns to his for­ day's catch. mer love again in time for the Yet no kindlier people exist ensuing summer's fishing. The anywhere in the world. They feel usual period in which he fishes very keenly the isolation caused nowadays begins in late June and in early winter before the ice­ extends to Christmas, depending bridge forms and again in early on the vagaries of the weather. spring when it is unsafe to use it Many traps are set in July or any more. A few venturesome earlier, but the real backbone of souls persist in using it until it is the industry consists of those who suicidal to do so any more. How­ use trawls and handlines. Many ever, accidents are fare and of the boats are manner by just drowning fatalities almost un­ one person who often goes as far known. as ten or more miles from his The outside world is to some home day by day when the extent brought to Herring Neck weather permits from June to weekly by the mail and cargo December. The hours, too, are steamer which is based at Lewis­ long. During the early part of the porte. For 48 years this service season when caplin form the prin­ was performed by the S.S. Clyde, cipal bait the boats proceed to the which has now been replaced by grounds often as early as I a.m. the larger and better S.S. Spring­ As the season advances the time dale, which everybody hopes will of departure gets later and later give a similar or longer period of while the start for home is de­ service to the people of Notre layed correspondingly until it Dame Bay.

MARCH. 1951 23 The Great Hunt

IT'S SEALING TIME IN NEWFOUNDLAND!

1-

by MICHAEL F. HARRINGTON will ever again attain the supreme place it held in the Newfoundland IGHT now, as you read this economy and general way of life. R issue of Atlantic Guardian, This year as in the past ten or the great seal-hunt is 'under twelve years only a comparative weigh'. Off the northeast coast, handful of ships are 'to the ice', or "Front" of Newfoundland, and with a correspondingly small in the Gulf of 51. Lawrence or on number of men. the "Back" of the Island, the seal­ ing fleet is engaged in the annual, One hundred years ago this exciting adventure that from the spring no less than three hundred earliest times has caught the and twenty three ships, aggregat­ imagination of people the world ing more than thirty thousand over. tons and with almost eleven thou­ ~and men, prosecuted the seal The sealing industry of today, fishery, and that was by no means unfortunately, is only a shadow of the biggest year. Ten years later its former greatness and import­ though the number of vessels was ance, and it is very doubtful if it less, the tonnage was greater be-

24 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN cause the ships were larger, and 400 Vessels out in 1857 the crews totalled over fourteen It was soon realized that the thousand hands. In the ten years best method of hunting for seals from 1850 to 1860 the total of was by boat, and before the year seals taken was almost four and a 1800 daring fishermen were going half million. as far as the mouths of the large bays in large, partly-decked boats The sealfishery, however, can be called shallops. This practice led traced a long way further back to disaster around 1804 when over than the middle of the 19th cen­ a score of these were lost in a tury. All early writers on New­ series of northeast gales. By 1806 foundland back to Sebastian small, decked schooners had made Cabot have mentioned the seals their appearance, and from then that, together with codfish, filled on the numbers and types of sail­ our waters, and the first authentic ing vessels increased till the re­ account of a seal-fishery can be cord year of 1857 when over four found in the writings of L'Abbe hundred vessels were engaged Raynal who, in 1763, told how with over thirteen thousand men English settlers went to certain taking part. parts of Newfoundland during the winter to carryon that fishery. H was the growing importance Returns made in 1783 indicate that of the seal-fishery that in the a profitable shore sealfishery was early part of the last century conducted at Fogo and Twillin­ started the great boom in local gate. shipbuilding, for prior to 1840

Seal-hunters travel the northern ice-floes to make their "kill", then haul the pelts back to the ship with long tow-lines.

MARCH. 1951 25 almost every sealing vessel was local-built, and, of course, local­ manned. Every harbor of any importance on the Eastern Front built its own ships, Fogo, Greens­ pond, Twillingate, King's Cove, Trinity, Bonavista, Hant's Harbor and every large place in Concep­ tion Bay, plus several important ports south of St. John's. This was the era when the name of Michael Kearney, the native genius and ship-builder extraor­ dinary of the Southern Shore, loomed large in our annals. To realize what a spur to local industry this boom was, it must be considered too that the ships' crews came from the same har­ A definite start has been made in the bors, and the seal fat, in most study of the Great Northern Seal Herd. cases, was manufactured into oil Here R. L. Stephenson of the Department in the same places. Some settle­ of Fisheries tags a pup. ments can still point to the 'Dock', a site suitable for building, The growing seal-fishery turned launching, and repairing vessels; the winter season into a time of they can indicate where the unceasing preparation for the 'Boilers' were erected for render­ coming spring. Scarcely had the ing out the oil by heat, and in boats been hauled up after the some cases the old 'Vats' are still summer than all hands turned to in existence, where the oil was the many tasks connected with rendered out by pressure or de­ getting a large fleet of sailing composition. ships ready for a voyage into Previous to 1700 nearly all the Arctic ice-floes in March. Ship­ Devonshire people returned home carpenters, sailmakers, riggers, in the fall, but when the seal­ filters, blacksmiths set to work fishery developed, this population making sails, punts, oars, and remained in the island and began gaffs; stripping and sheathing the the establishment of permal1ent hulls; putting pounds in the holds, settlements. This brought about fitting the 'rams' on the bows; and the first great social change in the doing the thousand jobs that the life and habits of Newfound­ forthcoming undertaking requir­ landers. Up till then the winter ed. season was a period of slackness Historians have declared that and enforced idleness, a time of the period when the sealfishery ease and plenty for those who had rose to its peak in the mid-19th fared well at the codfishery: a century was the most prosperouc; time of hardship and want for and contented Newfoundland has those who had met with failure. ever known. Employment and

26 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN wages were steady and prosperit." steamers, were well-nigh helpless smiled on every harbor. The in an lice-jam'. Sometimes they principal trader in each place, were nipped so tight, that their locally called the "Big Planter," masts were started, and their combined the occupation of Seal­ rigging got slack, to tighten up ing Skipper for the winter with again, when the pressure was re­ his regular business. Usually moved. To prevent this, and keep there were two 'Big Planters' in moving, the crew tried to free the larger places, who competed their craft by making her roll. in everything, business and p::>li­ This was sometimes done by the tics. The dare-devil deeds of entire crew lining up on one side these ice skippers are legendary; of the vessel's deck and at a given it was beneath their pride to steer signal rushing across to the other in the channel made by another rail. man; they had to butt their own way and this was often a super­ In the Wake of Icebergs human task even with ice-saws Reforming, they ran back, and and the "rams". repeated this manoeuvre till the The sailing ships, not having light wooden ships were rolling the thrust of powerful propellors considerably and breaking the ice nor the strong hulls of the around the hulls. This was not

This is a mother seal of the Harp specie and her Whitecoat pup photographed by R. l. Stephenson during the 1950 hunt. Opinions differ as to the si:r:e of the Great Northern Harp Hair Seal herd; Stephenson estimates it to be between two and four million old seals.

MARCH. 1951 27 very effective for making head­ vessels availed of to get free. Of way, however, and when the jam course they ran exceptional risks, was solid ahead, the men went for a shift in wind or current over the side with ice-saws and might bring the towering mass of cut the pans from one another. destruction down on them. This Fastened under the jibboom of hazardous method of making pro­ each vessel were the aforemen­ gress is immortalized in a verse of tioned 'Rams', sticks of wood for an old sealer's song: t!le men to stand on, or hold on "Yon iceberg's wake has formed to as they 'copied' ahead of the a lake, cutwater forcing the pans under the bows with their gaffs. That leads our course along; To warp her through our sealing­ They felt themselves lucky if crew they fell in with an iceberg going their way. If a vessel was trying Round bows and bulwarks to butt her way through the floes throng ... " and an iceberg was seen moving Often the very rig of the v~ssels away from them under pressure was designed to help in manoeu,'­ of wind or tide, the ship was im­ ring through the icefloes. One mediately warped into its wake. such rig earned for itself, the For the huge mass of ice simply quaint and descriptive title of ploughed through the pans leav­ "Beaver Hat Men". The main rig ing a wide 'lead' or 'swatch' of of the vessel was the usual fore­ open water, which the wooden and-aft type for ships of 60 to 80

Many hundreds of seals are taken by hunters along the north-east coast each year as the ice crowds upon the shore line. This photo was taken at Herring Neck,

28 AnANTIC GUARDIAN tons. In addition they carried a big square topsail on the forema.;t which was very useful in b:J.ckittg the ship. The appear3nce of the rig at a distance was supposed to have origi:lated the unusual name: other unorthodox rigs bore equally odd designations. In the 1860's a new era in the seal-fishery began to dawn, when a St. John's firm sent out the first two steamers the "Bloodhound" and the "Wolf". Though at first unsuccessful, they soon began to prove their worth, and ;5 the number of steamers increased, the number of sailing ships declined, till by the 1900's the sailing ship last of the famed "wooden walls", the had passed from the scene, and veteran sealer "Eagle" was towed out the entire sealing t1eet consisted of to sea and sunk in the spring of 1950. about two dozen wooden steamers, most of them built in Scotland on the remainder of the wooden the lines of the Dundee whalers. ships, and last summer the last of the "wooden walls." the In 1905 the Steel Ship "Eagle" was buried at sea off St. John's in the real Viking tradition. Then in 1905 another innovation came, the steel ship. Few of the The seal-fishery in recent years old-timers had a good word for has taken a new turn, or perhaps iron. They claimed there was a it is a re-turn to earlier days. The certain amount of 'give' in a new sealers are small, wooden wooden ship 'nipped' in the ice; sr.ips mainly, but oil or Diesel­ none in a steel ship. The S.S. powered. Sea-faring men are still "Adventure" was built on new debating their merit as compared lines so as to crush the ice with to the steamers of the last quarter her own weight. She went to the of the 19th and the first quarter of ice in 1905 and proved so success­ the 20th century, and the argu­ ful that other firms followed suit. ment is not likely to be settled From 1906 to 1914 Newfoundland soon. The main thing, however, had the finest t1E'et of steel ice­ is that the sealfishery after a lapse breakers in the world. Some in World War Two is still an im­ were sold, some wrecked on their pOl·tant seasonal adjunct to the 'lawful occasions', others lost by Island's economy. enemy action in World War One. No account of the Newfound­ In the interval between the two land seal-fishery could end with­ World Wars. new ships were out some part of the story of built, only to suffer the same fate. hardship, adventure, disaster and Disaster and old age took toll of bravery that highlights every year MARCH. 1951 29 Memories of an Oldtime Sealer

My memory wandered to the past, And as she passed me by Upon the trackless deep, Dawe, he waved his hand to me, And like a dream I saw again As if he meant IIgaod-bye". Our gallant sailing fleet. And next I saw Jim Murphy, Their graceful hulls and tapering He, too, was homeward bound; spars, Then a brig came quickly after I knew them in the "Jam". him, Far from their bowsprit head and 'Twas Whelan in the Hound. guys There hung the battering ram. Then I saw the grand old man, Whose locks were silvery white, I saw them deeply laden then, Who hunting seals was ne'er And bearing up for home, deceived, When an angry storm fast swelled The brave old Neddy Pike. the sea, And lashed it into foam. But many more unknown to me Passed by to fill the list, I saw the fleet with hulls down Then Stephen Crocker followed deep, them, As each one passed me by, Like the "cruiser in the mist". With close-reefed sail before the gale But a mist did rise before my eyes, The icy track to ply. No object could be seen, But I heard a welcome well­ A stately vessel she came by, known voice, And passed on like a flash. It was that of Daniel Green. I clearly could descry her name­ It was Barron in the Dash. Then the moon shone through the misty clouds, Then I saw the Michael Anthony, The storm had died away, And when she came in view And I wandered by the rippling Staunton stood upon the deck lakes, Amid his gallant crew. Until it was clear day.

Then before the gale with swell­ Then many a well-known face ing sail and form Two vessels more I'd seen, On the frozen fields I met, It was the far-famed Terry Until I stood with White and Hallahan Jackman And the veteran Percy Feighn. Upon their greasy deck. Then I saw the gallant Huntsman, --A SEAL HUNTER.

of history without exception. In­ "such and such happened in the deed some years featured disasters Spring of the Wadhams", or lisa so vast and terrifying, that suc­ and so was born or married or ceeding generations have reckon­ died the year of the 'Viking' dis­ ed the events of their lives and aster". those of their forbears by stating "The Spring of the Wadhams"

30 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN was one of the worst disasters that frozen pans in the entire history ever overtook the old-time sailing of the sealfishery. fleet. The year was 1852, when seals were found to be very The first occurred in 1898, when plentiful in the area of the Wad­ a large body of men from the hams, a group of islets southeast "5.5. Greenland" were caught on of Fogo. A fearful northeast gale the ice when a storm of wind and destroyed more than forty vessels, snow and freezing cold enveloped by smashing them in the rafting them without warning. Forty­ ice, or setting them afire when eight men were frozen to death. their galley-stoves were overturn­ In 1914 the terrible tragedy was ed. Happily loss of life was com­ repeated down to the last detail, paratively small, though almost except that the death toll was two thousand men lost everything almost doubled. Four watches, except what they stood in. almost two hundred men from the IlS.S. Newfoundland" were over­ Each year without exception taken by a smiliar llblind white­ wooden vessels were lost, and in ness", and were on the ice two 1864 the Spring of the Wadhams days and nights, March 3lst­ was almost duplicated when 26 April 2nd, without food, heat or craft were wrecked in Green Bay. shelter. Nearly eighty perished, The steamers fared better against the majority being brought to St. the ice, but they carried within John's by other ships, frozen them the seeds of destruction. In blocks of ice. 1873, 25 men were killed on board the wooden steamer, "S.S. The "Southern Cross" Goes Down Tigress", when her boiler explod­ ed, and similar accidents occurred To climax this dreadful tragedy, in the first part of this half­ and make the date March 31st century aboard steel ships like the and the year 1914 unparalleled in "Seal", The last great sealing sorrow, another sealing steamer, disaster took place in 1931 when the "Southern Cross", returning the wooden steamer "Viking" log-loaded from the Gulf, went blew up near White Bay, when down in the same storm, with all fire reached her powder magazine. hands, one hundred and seventy­ About thirty lives were lost. three men. The total death-toll for the 31st of March, 1914, was In addition to those kinds of over two hundred and fifty men. accidents, a new peril was added At that time the wooden ships had in the days of the steamers. Be­ no wireless which contributed to cause of their ability to get the disaster; in the case of the around in the ice, the men were "Southern Cross" no S.O.S. could often sent some distance from the be sent; in the case of the "New­ ships after seals, in the knowledge foundland" she was unable to be that the steamers would come and contacted by the steel ships which pick them up if they were unable had last seen her men. to return before dark. This prac­ tice lead to the two worst disas­ Today, the new sealing fleet has ters that ever took place on the not only wireless but radar and

MARCH. 1951 31 ship-to-shore telephone, to call for help, obtain weather reports, and detect the danger lurking .,MIlN of tltc .,Mo/t/II ahead in snow, darkness or fog. Today they do not seek the seals by "guess or by God", as the old Viking captains did, for a seal­ spotting plane makes regular flights over the icefloes and re­ ports the movements and size of the herds. Aeroplanes are not an entirely recent innovation, for as far back as the 1920's an Aus­ tralian airman named Major Cotton was the pioneer in an aerial survey of the icefields. In 1923 the "Antartic Baby Avro" which had accompanied Sil' Ernest Shackleton in the "Quest" was secured to operate from one of the sealing ships. Nowadays a power­ ful modern aeroplane operating from the several airports of New­ foundland makes several sweeps each week over the icefields while the ships are at sea.

Nevertheless, despite wireless, radar, and aircraft, the seal fishery is still the "Great Hunt" and the J. W. ALLAN, O. B. E. "Great Adventure". The wind is still keen, the ice is still sharp, the storm still comes suddenly, the ocean is a deep place to die. Many of Furness Withy writers have tried to tell the story as it ought to be told but none wo of the most famous names better than the American writer in Newfoundland's maritime George Allan England who went T history are Michael Kearney and Ito the ice' himself a generation Daniel Condon. Both were out­ ago. He has written the saga and standiZlg native geniuses in the the epitaph of the men who have building, repairing and salvaging followed the 'Great Hunt' in these of ships, and the feats they per­ few words: "Great men and true, formed or caused men under in many ways the finest breed in them to perform rank high in the whole, round world indeed local annals: and some of them they are, these Vikings of the are on the way to becoming North-gentlemen unafraid," legends. Their calm determina-

32 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN tion, quiet vigor and natural abil­ ranging for the despatch of naval, ity may in some measure account military and air recruits, loggers for the success of their descend­ and mercantile marine ratings, ant who constitutes the subject of and of the capable and efficient this article. For Joseph William handling of many local shipping Allan, O.B.E., Manager of the problems". In connection with his Furness Withy Steamship Com­ wartime activities he also received pany in Sl. John's since 1935 hap­ in 1947 a commendation from the pens tv be the grandson of Daniel Dutch Government signed by Condon and the great-great Princess Juliana for services to grandson of Michael Kearney. Dutch seamen in Newfoundland.

Born at Sl. John's on March That is not the only parchment JOth, 1897, J. W. Allan is the son in his possession signed by royalty of William J. and Josephine and other distinguished individ­ (Condon) Allan. He was educat­ uals. J. W. Allan, O.B.E., holds ed at Sl. Patrick's Hall and Sl. several consular positions and Bonaventure's College, and having certificates of authorization hang served a short apprenticeship upon the walls of his comfortable with a city importer and the office at Water Street East through General Post Office entered the the windows of which the red and employ of the Furness Withy black funnels of Furness Withy Company in 1916, which had steamers meet the eye. Danish opened an office in Sl. John's in Consul since 1938, Portuguese 1911 under Colonel Montgomery. Consul since 1938, and Vice The laIter was succeeded by Consul since 1942 on the appoint­ Joseph P. Carey and in 1935 J. W. ment of a native of Portugal as Allan became the first Ipcal man resident Consul, Swedish Consul to be appointed manager of the since 1945, these certificates dis­ local branch of a shipping com­ play the signatures of King Chris­ pany which for four decades has tian X of Denmark, Salazar the been the Island's main link with almost legendary 'strong man' of the Old Country and the European Portugal, King Gustav of Sweden, Continent. and countersignatures of His Majesty King George VI, Lord The new manager had hardly Halifax and Ernest Bevin. time to settle down into his posi­ tion when World War Two broke out, a time that was not only to Serves on Many Committees try mens' souls but also to be very difficult for managers of shipping So far this has been a resume of companies. But J. W. Allan rose the business career of Joseph to the occasion, as his nautical William Allan, and its interesting forbears had before him, and his ramifications. The personality of exceptional services over and this "Man of the Month" would above his regular task earned him only be half-filled-in, without a the O.B.E. awarded in 1941. The fair commentary on his multifar­ honor was bestowed "in rerogni­ ious activities outside the business tio:1 of active co-operation in ar- sphere, which well bear out the

MARCH. 1951 33 old saying that "if you want He is a Member of the Execu­ something done, get a busy man tive of the Newfoundland Division to do it". of the Canadian Red Cross and has been a Director of the New­ Committee work is J. W. Allan's foundland Tuberculosis Associa­ forte and Finance Committees are tion since its inception. He is his specialty. He was awarded President of the Newfoundland the Coronation Medal for his work Employers Association. as Chairman of the Finance Com­ One wonders how such a busy mittee for the Celebration of the individual could find the time for Coronation of King George V, but recreation, yet his social and there's many another Finance fraternal connections included Committee which has felt his Bally Haly Golf and Country impetus, and though not produc­ Club, Murray's Pond Fishing, St. ing medals, produced results. John's Curling, and City Club, Financial drives for welfare or­ and the Knights of Columbus. He ganizations of all sorts have found was Chairman of the Finance him either an energetic chairman Committee which a few years or member, and his is a name that ago helped to bring the Catholic immediately comes to mind when Boys Club into being, when it a campaign for funds is about to raised over $8000 almost over­ be inaugurated; and he is always night, and is also Treasurer of the willing, and takes pride in rarely Judge Higgins Scholarship Assoc­ if ever missing a meeting of any iation, composed of ex-pupils of kind. St. Patrick's Hall Schools, who If the following list is any indi­ sought to preserve the memory of cation, these meetings have been, the late revered Judge. and are, many and varied. He was President of the Board of J .W. Allan, O.RE., is a man Trade in 1937 and a member of who besides doing an able job in the Council for six years. During his chosen profession, has also his tenure of office, the practice was inaugurated of making the contributed a great deal to the annual meeting a dinner meeting welfare of his fellow citizens and with some outstanding personage fellowmen in general. Much of as guest speaker. He was Presi­ that contribution has been made dent of the St. John's Curling As­ by the able organization and dir­ sociation in 1936 and is now Presi­ dent of the Newfoundland Curl­ ection of the collection of money, ing Association which includes St. which most people will admit is John's and Corner Brook. He is no easy or pleasant task at any a Past President of Rotary, the time. But in his calm, quiet way City Club, and the Allied Mer­ Joseph William Allan has made chant Seamen's Club, and was Chairman of the Financial Com­ it almost painless to the contrib­ mittee which raised $42,000 for utor, and almost pleasant for the the last-named organization. collector.

34 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN NEWFOUNDLAND CROSSWORD by TOM OSBORNE ANSWER ON PAGE 44

CLUES ACROSS 28. Goes with the wind 30. Newfoundland labrador (abbr.) 1. Town neor Mutlon Boy 31. light cope 8. Kind of Humber River Grand Falls 32. Frondly plants 11. lucky strike (makes deep wafers run 33. letter from Q Greek still) 34. Might (abbr.) 12. Heavenly body (reminds you of Q 35. Ornamental dressers famous actress I 37. All correct (abbr.) 13. The cat's whispers 38. Long 14. It's the low 40. Petal pusher 17. Big-little South Coast Boy 43. Ront 18. Cause of many a good fellow feeling 44. lukewarm no poin 20. Kind of French cafe 46. Kind of shower 22. Creepy 49. Whot unpopular people ore coiled 24. How Mr. Premier thinks 51. One less one (It takes time to 26. For ex. figure this out)

MARCH. 1951 35 52. Well·known Red who sent his son 10 Newfoundland 54. little devil 55. Automatic lawn-sprinkler NEWFOUNDLAND 56. Where King William IV built a church AS OTHERS SEE IT! CLUES DOWN 1. Tippy thing young creepers gel around on Like Newfoundland 2. Use hay in popular louisiana fashion 3. Snob·nosed clan Children 4. Flower S. Rd. by JOHN Y. BEATY 6. Expert tree climber 7. After-dinner speaker's conjunction VISITED the island to get 8. Donkey I material for a book about the 9. Added descent mokes it very colorf ... 1 ocean to be used in the schools 10. large moat for Sir John Glover 13. Vessels of the United States. I had 15. Cook. thought before I came that I 17. Aims would learn most about the ocean 19. Why be early? The first one up is from captains of vessels in the at the bottom of the stairway port of St. John·s. It turned out 21. Scene of the Declaration of Inde· pendence that I learned about as much 23. Dukes about the ocean and its uses by 25. long to the people of Newfoundland from 27. If they can swing it, the kids will children as I did from the sea have a good time in the garden 29. Addition. See it? captains. It seemed to me that 32. That's all, brother these boys and girls knew more 35. Where architects get their arches about their surroundings and their together father's business than most boys 36. Pop 39. Fine feathers, etc. This is not point. and girls in the United States less, so let's get it straight would know about their surround­ 41. d. ings. 42. Things have gone for enough I This Three of the boys whose fathers is it fish out of St. John's offered to be 45. Size French coffee cups come in 47. Mystery man my guide around the harbor. 48. In spite of ever-changing fashions, They showed me the fish flakes, the gals manage to keep up with guided me up Signal Hill, intro­ this 50. Spring duced me to the captain of the 52. R.R. on a higher plane sealing fleet, took me to the light­ 53. One and one hundred house on South Head, and an-

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36 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN swered all of my questions as we me about the cod fishing. He walked. showed me the boats used, ex­ They knew the name of the plaind how the fishing is done and boat that was in the dry dock; told me a number of exciting they knew what was being done to experiences his father and his it; they knew where it had been. brothers had had on the banks. They took me to the place When we were visiting the Fort where the dried cod were being Amherst Lighthouse, one of the packed in hogsheads for shipment boys told me how the fishermen, abroad. They told me that one or officers on large ocean boats, of the boats in the harbor had can recognize where they are by brought a load of salt from Spain, the way the light flashes. He ex­ and they answered innumerable plained that the signal light is questions which came to my mind different at different points. One as we explored this-the most in­ of the boys also told me of a storm teresting island I had ever visited. in which his father had almost When we visited Cabot Hill. been lost but was helped to find they told me the history of Cabot the harbor by the flashing of the Tower and the powder magazine. Fort Amherst light. They had learned this in school. I wondered how the boys knew One of the boys took me to his so many of these important facts home and showed me his three about the ocean and, when I pigeons. He had named them wrote the book about the ocean Polly. Wally, and Doodle. He said which is now used in schools all he got the names from a song he over the United States, I told had heard someone sing which about these children and used had the phrase, "I went down several pictures of them. One of South to see my gal. singing the pictures I used showed several 'Polly. Wally. Doodle' all the of the boys holding up one of the day." nets that was drying on the rocks The boys took me to the fish on North Head. It was my hope flakes; they guided me through that the children of the United the activities of the fishermen States might be inspired to learn from the unloading to the final more about their surroundings drying. I was particularly in­ when they read about the children terested in learning that the livers of Newfoundland and the know­ of the codfish are saved separately ledge they gained by taking a and that the tongues are a deli­ lively interest in the work of cacy. their fathers and brothers and in I was particularly impressed all that goes on around them. with the pets which the children Another thing that impressed of Newfoundland have. Different me was that Newfoundland chil­ children showed me their dogs dren are inclined to do useful and their cats. Each animal had things. I found some of them a name, each one showed that it picking berries, for example. 1 was well cared for and a real pal t:aw several with home-made toys. of its owner. Two little girls had home-made I asked one of the boys to tell boats with sails cut similar to

MARCH. 1951 31 those on one of the schooners in the harbor. Two boys had a The Wreck home-made wagon. One day, two of the boys took me to the place where seal oil was of the being cured. We saw one of the sealing ships being repaired; we visited the factory and saw the oil FANNY WRIGHT in the vats and the big drum in which the sealskins are rotated in by MICHAEL P. MURPHY sawdust to take the oil out of them. The boys knew about all From out of the dim past comes of these activities and explained the grim story of a Newfound­ everything to me. land seaman who was forced One day, I drove to Holyrood. into murder. There I learned about "squid­ jiggin". One of the boys there showed me one of the jiggers and OME time back in the fifties walked with me around the har­ S of the last century, the full­ bor. As we walked, we found rigged ship "Fanny Wright" left two squid lying on the gravel. St. John's, Newfoundland, bound They had evidently been washed for Ireland with a miscellaneous ashore. The boys told me all cargo. She had on board a crew about the squid jiggin' activities. of eighteen men, including the They took me to one of the wharfs captain, all natives of Ireland with and there we saw one of the little the exception of the cook, John girls of Holyrood fishing with a O'Gorman, who was born at the fishpole. She had caught several Riverhead of St. John's. small fish and was very much Fair weather was encountered intent on her work. She was get­ until the fourteenth day out. ting food for her family. This, Then a terrific storm arose. The again, impressed me with the ser­ "Fanny Wright", never a good sea iousness of Newfoundland chil­ boat even at its best, was tossed dren and their interest in import­ about like a piece of cork by the ant work. angry waves. Mountainous seas I found many things of interest beat against her sides and poured on the island, but I am sure that over her decks. She was at this the impression the island chidren time hundreds of miles from land, made on me is the chief reason in the middle of the North Atlan­ why I want to tell all my friends tic. The man at the wheel was about Newfoundland, and I want inexperienced and w hen one to return for another trip before particularly heavy sea hit him, he very long. Newfoundland parents released his hand from the spokes should be proud of their children. and in an instant the "Fanny They are surely going to grow into Wright" was on her beam ends. useful men and women. In my The crew went to work immed­ opinion, they have the right view­ iately to right the ship. The fore­ point on life and living. mast and mainmast were cut

38 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN away, and as they went over the that the rest might live. It would side they took the mizzenmast probably be days before a ship with them. The ship uprighted got close enough to them to dis­ but it was impossible to get below cover their plight. Some one decks on account of the tremen­ would have to die to save the dous amount of water that had rest, he repeated. flooded cabins, hold and store­ When this proposition was put rooms. to the men it was received with On the movning of the fifteenth mixed feelings. Some were horri­ day, the men aboard the vessel fied at the thought of having to were in a desperate plight. Griffis, resort to cannibalism. Others, the chief mate, and two seamen, however, driven to desperation Breen and Cusack, had been by hunger, welcomed this expres­ drowned when the ship went on sion of the secret thought that its beam ends. The only articles had been in their minds for days secured from below decks were before. Finally, all agreed but three bottles of port wine. This under one condition, that the mar­ was rationed, and some drinking ried men should be exempt, and watel' was procured by holding that the fatal lot should be drawn the cover of a tureen under the from among the four boys of the saddle of the broken mizzenmast. ship's crew. The deck was awash and no dry The four boys, Sheehan, Burns, spot could be found on which to O'Brien and one other whose sit or lie down. name is not known, were lined up Within a few days, the weather on the deck. One of the crew took became calm. The men, after four sticks of different lengths and having been on their feet for held them in his closed fist, and ninety-six hours, found some dry the horror-stricken lads drew one planks in the cabin and took ad­ in turn. The short stick, the fatal vantage of this chance to get some one, was drawn by O'Brien, a much-needed rest. Gradually get­ youngster from Limerick. ting weaker from want of food, A bandage was tied over the and with their legs covered with eyes of the trembling lad. As sores as a result of standing in O'Brien, groaning in despair, with salt water the men were still tears coursing down his cheeks, buoyed up with the hope that stood apart on the deck, the Cap­ help would come. With anxious tain looked around him for some­ eyes they scanned the horizon for body to do the fatal deed. His the sight of a sail. They saw a eyes lighted on John O'Gorman, few ships but none came close the cook, the only Newfound­ enough to the wreck to be sig­ lander aboard the stricken ship. nalled. The Captain ordered him forward, a knife was placed in his hand, One Must Die and the unwiling man was pushed On the 18th of November, nine toward O'Brien. With curses and days after the big storm, the cap­ blows from the crew, and the tain proposed to the men that one threat that he would be killed of them would have to die in order himself if he did not kill the lad,

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40 ATLANTIC GUARDIAN O'Gorman, shaking as if with oldest inhabitants of St. John's ague, slit O'Brien's wrist. He was have but a meagre knowledge of horrified when he saw that no the events recorded therein. It blood came, and backed away was given to me by a seaman who from the doomed lad, screaming has probably the truest version of in terror. Forced back at the the sad tale." One verse of the point of a knife in his back, song is as follows: O'Gorman made a desperate slash at the boy's throat. O'Brien "Then said the cruel captain, shrieked and fell forward to the This work will never do. deck dead. O'Gorman you must cut his The starving men upon whose throat, faces no trace of remorse showed, Or else you'll suffer too. milled around the corpse "f The trembling cook he took the O'Brien, and were urging the knife half-fainting cook to hurry when And did him sore confound, suddenly a full-rigged ship was He cut his throat and drank his sighted, bearing down toward the blood, wreck. As it flowed from lhe wound." A tarpaulin was hurriedly thrown over O'Brien's remains, Jack London, the famous author and the crew rushed to the rail of The Call of the Wild and to hail the oncoming vessel with other stories must have heard the shouts of joy. The ship proved to tale from some of his shipmates be the HAngenora" of American on the foreign voyages he made. registry and the survivors of the The drama and stark tragedy of ill-fated "Fanny Wright" were the slory must have appealed to taken aboard and brought to their him for he wrote a short story destination in Ireland. entitled "The Francis Spaight" in History is silent about the after­ which he told the whole tragic math of this rescue. Nobody yarn, changing nothing except knows what became of John the name of the ship. O'Brien, O'Gorman, the cook from St. lhe captain, the cook, and all the John's, who was forced to kill the characters live again in London's young lad, O'Brien of Limerick. enthralling short story, which he Even the date of the wreck of the acknowledged, however, as "a ship is unknown, but an old Sf. true tale retold". This story is John's newspaper of 1851 records found in "Love of Life and other the fact that a ship called the Stories" by Jack London, publish­ "Fanny Wright" was then in port ed by Paul Elek, London, 1946. at Sf. John's. London describes John O'Gor­ In a volume entitled "Songs man as a "weak-eyed, weak­ and Ballads of Terra Nova", pub­ chinned, indecisive man". But lished in 1902, the late James ,fohn O'Gorman has the distinc­ Murphy included a song called tion of being the only Newfound­ "The Loss of the Fanny Wright". lander who ever became a char­ In a publisher's note Mr. Murphy acter in any of Jack London's said, "This song is so old that the stories.

MARCH,1951 41 A. G. FLASHBACKS

THE CAPTURE OF MARY MARCH

What more appropriate tale offices they might be able to make could provide this month's "Flash­ friends with the main tribes. On back" feature than that of the the 4th they found signs that the B othuck Indian woman whose tribes were not far away, and on unofficial re-chirstening gave her the 5th, as their way lay up the [or surname the name of the Exploits River towards Red In­ month in which she was taken dian Lake, they saw fresh tracks into captivity! It all began when of Indians in the new, drifting the settlers and furriers in north­ snow. The men were instructed ern Newfoundland became in­ on no account to show hostile censed over the depradations of signs unless in defence of their the Beothucks or native Red In­ lives. dians of Newfoundland. The Indians Fled Frequent raids, usually at night, on settlements in Notre Dame Bay A short time after fOUf Indians particularly resulted in nets and came in sight, a woman and three moorings being cut, traps robbed men. They fled, but the whites and boats set adrift. The climax threw off their racquets (snow­ to some four or five years of these shoes) and overtook the woman. raids came in the fall of 1818 Peyton dropped his musket and when a vessel belonging to John held out his hands ill a peaceful Peyton Jr. of Exploits was set gesture whereupon the woman adrift after first being wilfully came towards him. All might damaged and her valuable cargo have been well, but for the un­ stolen. derstandable actions of one of the men who turned out to be the Peyton sought and was granted woma!1's husband. He attacked permissio::1 from His Excellency Peyton, Sr., and when the for­ Governor Sir Charles Hamilton to mer's life appeared to be in dan­ go in pursuit of his property. (At ger, the Indian was shot and that time hunters and fishermen killed. were being warned under pain of severe penalties not to molest the At that all the Indians, who Beothucks, while efforts were be­ now amounted to about a dozen, ing made to establish friendly fled. Being in the very heart of relations with them.) the Indian country, and not know­ ing how soon they might be Accordingly on the 1st of attacked in force, the whites re­ March, 1819, Peyton, his father, turned to the coast, taking the and eight of his men started Indian woman with them. She inland to try and capture some of was well treated and but for the the Indians through whose good desire to return for her infant

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MARCH. 1951 43 baby, seemed quite happy. She were left in the Indian encamp­ told her captives her name was ment together with the presents Demasduit, but they christened with which she was to try and her Mary March, by which name win the confidence of her people. she was known till her death. Later in the spring she was taken to St. John's.

In the summer of 1819 the Gov­ CROSSWORD SOLUTION ernor sent "H.M.S. Drake" to TR EP BI Exploits under Captain Glascock A G with orders to deliver' Mary 01 L. 5 TIAIR5151•P UR R March to her people, also many ED Ie T.P G A 1<1 A presents. The expedition failed, .E TH E R.N 0 I R. N and the Indian woman was re­ F. EERI E. AL OUD turned to Twillingate. A second EG 5 A \L N L expedition was fitted out for the .F s. RA y.•FE R N S.E TA winter of 1819-20 under Captain RT IR LS OK David Buchan, the intention being .G .P PA • to reach Red Indian Lake by the YE AI< N. S l: L. E L. 120 AR TE PI frozen Exploits River. However D. NA MES Mary March had suffered a ser­ AP 121 L.•8. ious decline in health and died on NO ON .E RI C. IMP the 8th of January. Her remains DE W. PL AC E .N T\A

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