hristendom—the concrete general and in particular, it is too and Catholic Rome remains realization of the principles of easy to forget Rome’s essential role in sunk in a crisis whose fruits are Cthe Catholic Faith in every facet the life of the Church. Contact with the seen everywhere. In the Roman of daily life, the spiritual kingdom of Christian marvels of the Eternal City, universities, seminarians and Christ incarnated in exterior activity. For wondrously invigorates a seminarian’s priests study in the same classes the priest this must be one of the great Roman spirit. The magnificent churches, as young ladies. Many clerics ideals toward which all his actions tend. the tombs of innumerable saints, the walk the streets with unbuttoned Jesus Christ must reign not only in name martyrdom sites, the houses of religious collars. Everywhere, even inside but in deed over the whole of political, orders, the universities, and the charitable the churches, the tourists and the social, and individual life. No fairy tale, institutions all speak of a culture that residents vie with one another Christendom both has existed and will was thoroughly suffused with Catholic for greater lack of decorum and flourish again to the degree that nations principle. These testaments of Christian modesty in dress and behavior. You never know whom you will run into in Rome. Besides meeting are animated by the spirit of the Church. order endow the seminarian with wisdom Yet, rather than being a detriment many Roman clergymen in the streets, the group was honored for a It subsists still in a rarified, potential form that a manual of theology cannot provide. to the formative elements of time by the company of Bishop Tissier de Mallerais (center). in seed and soil—in the hearts and minds Furthermore, side by side with the seminarians’ time in Rome, of the faithful, and in the remnant morality Christian Rome rest many vestiges of the such circumstances can actually Amidst all of this historical scrutiny, of its former realization, which the spirit classical city. These bear testimony to the enhance it. They fix the eyes on the reality the seminarians could swiftly become blind of the world strives to erode completely. Church’s capacity to purge what is evil of the present situation. With affairs so to the dictates of devotion. While intent The world’s conversion incubates in germ, and ennoble what is good in any cultural imperfect in the very heart of the Church, upon learning, they do not ignore their and the resurrection of Catholic civilization landscape. The ancient Romans possessed falling into illusion regarding the effort pilgrim status, glorifying God by honoring will signify its approach. Although any required in the battle the remains of His saints, the instruments future Christendom can hardly be a slavish to restore Christendom of His Passion, and the seat of His Vicar. reproduction of the past, he who seeks this is difficult. As always, prayer holds the first place, and reestablishment can learn many valuable Rome is not in their supplication they firstly request the lessons from history. Firsthand experience the sole wellspring of recompense of their generous benefactors of the monuments of a truly Catholic valuable lessons for the who purchase their passage. If important society gives the would-be restorer a student of Christendom. articles of knowledge can be gained on this practical knowledge irreplaceable by any Limited in the number journey, unique spiritual helps await them as amount of abstract study. Consequently, of locations that can be well. The visitor to the Eternal City would the superiors of St. Thomas Aquinas visited in a mere three commit the worst folly, should he allow his Seminary have made the Europe Trip an weeks, nevertheless the desire to obtain the necessary knowledge essential part of its seminarians’ formation. Seminary trip includes to build up God’s kingdom to thrust him It stands to reason that such a trip other significant sites beyond the reach of these graces. For more should be focused on the place that is truly both within and out of than anything else it is holiness which Bernini’s baldacchino in St. Peter’s, a four columned canopy over heart and head of all Christianity: Rome. striking distance of the fashions effective restorers of Christendom. the high , required over 13,500 pounds of bronze to complete. Addressing a group of newly ordained Eternal City. Prominent priests in 1957, Pius XII urged his many natural virtues, much natural truth, among these stands one place far less audience to “… a profound and deeply and unequaled abilities in administration, ancient than many others visited on the trip, rooted conviction that at Rome is to be art, and architecture. For all that, without but of great consequence to the seminarians found the center of the Church.” This grace they could not but fall short of the and to all attached to Catholic Tradition. consideration of the Angelic Pastor Catholic ideal, yet this anterior civilization The seminary of Ecône, in the Swiss canton is particularly important today. was chosen by God’s Providence as the of the Valais, is the Society’s first seminary With a grave crisis assailing loam from which Christendom would and the resting place of the mortal remains the Church in sprout. Its examination supplies insights of its founder, Archbishop Marcel Lefebvre. applicable to the present situation, enabling In addition to pondering the vicissitudes of the seminarians, when priests, to emulate the Church and of Christendom, better the process of Christianization. the seminarians also must Left: An animated staffer Although this glance at her past consider the history of their elaborates the history of the enlightens and edifies, Rome today own congregation. In this way, masterpieces in the Vatican evidences all the traits of modernity, they grasp the Society of Saint Museum, including Raphael’s Pius X’s role in the present Disputation on the Blessed era, acquire an appreciation Sacrament. of its past efforts, and thus are prepared to take part in its future.

Fr. Iscara, shown here amidst the ruins of Herculaneum, is always in his element as Rome trip tour guide. With original seating for over 50,000 spectators, the Coliseum dwarfs even many modern stadiums. has the high arches and pervading silence Seven Churches). Earlier in the visit, the to the Mother of God. Good art leads man which it inspires—a trust founded upon the of the Gothic style. The Cistercians built seminarians explored the catacombs of St. from the sensible level to the plane of conviction of God’s goodness, which He their chapel at Fossanova (where St. Thomas Sebastian beneath the as well as the abstract truth. It does not aim chiefly at has manifested to us through the beauty of Aquinas departed this life) to reflect the catacombs of St. Callixtus nearby. this satisfaction of the lower part of man’s sacred art. poverty of their order and the simplicity of Walking north along the ancient nature, nevertheless, this is the starting point prayer with the less ornamented yet majestic , the pilgrims reached the of its communication with us. A more potent Romanesque design. And at Monte Cassino, Archbasilica of the Holy Savior, St. John physical impression can launch the observer the Benedictine spirit pervades the entire Lateran. Large marble tablets at the entrance more swiftly to the capture of truth and will monastery, from the large “Pax” inscribed proclaim the cathedral of the Pope to be the cement it more securely in memory. It is above the entrance to the silent marble “Mother and Head of all Churches in the here that Marian art excels, and the Roman cloisters and magnificently adorned chapel. whole world.” Close by is the basilica of the masterworks honoring her show forth this Crowning and concluding the Holy Cross in Jerusalem, where are reserved love with a unique combination of vigor and visit to Rome, many seminarians made some of the relics of the Passion of Our Lord delicacy. All of the art and architecture seen the traditional walking pilgrimage of in a fitting solemnity and simplicity. Further in the Eternal City imbued the seminarians the Seven , a distance of about north the seminarians reached the basilica of with additional fervor in prayer, but the twelve miles. Beginning at St. Peter’s and St. Lawrence, and then returning to the heart maternal tenderness evoked by the images of walking south to St. Paul’s, the pilgrims of the city the pilgrimage ended at St. Mary the Queen of Rome added to their entreaties reached the basilica of St. Sebastian by Major, where the seminarians gave thanks a special confidence of obtaining the graces following the Via Setta Chiesa (Way of the before the relics of the crib of Bethlehem. sought. Of all the influence art has exercised In fact, as in churches on men throughout the ages, the Heart of everywhere, frequently the most Jesus finds complacency most of all in this touching works are those dedicated firmly hopeful supplication rtists brandish powerful weapons. In both basilicas, recent archeological lies pierced with arrows in the basilica above with light and magnificently decorated, as Formidable in the hands of its diggings, working based on tradition, have the catacombs bearing his name and St. Paul the in St. Agnes’, showing the heavens Amaker, art which expresses the uncovered the places where the remains stands majestically with drawn sword at the opened and the saints glorifying God. Yet Catholic spirit articulates the faith in a of each saint rest. In St. Paul’s our clerics entrance to his basilica on the Ostian Way. the floor is not forgotten, and colored stone manner inexpressible in speech. So much venerated the Apostle of the Gentiles from Others depict the saints in a variety of poses creates a fantastic pattern upon which more tangible, so accessible to all the the railing surrounding the confessio, in and these are some of the most beautiful: St. it seems wrong to tread. Gigantic stone senses, it can drive its lessons deep into front of his visible sarcophagus, and prayed Aloysius, placed next to his tomb, gazes at pillars bedeck the nave of many churches, the minds of those open to receive them. for his intercession at the close of the the crucifix; St. Bruno stands with crossed supporting the decorated ceiling, which in First hand contact with the genius of the indulgenced Pauline Year declared by Pope some churches is gloriously painted, while masterworks of Christian art generates a Benedict XVI. At St. Peter’s, the ancient in others patterned and gilded (the ceiling natural impulse to share them with others. It Roman cemetery and fourth-century Basilica in St. Mary Major shines with the first gold is to fulfill this desire that we dedicate this rest partially unearthed directly below the brought from America). Mosaics glitter on VERBUM. To set forth a laundry list of all modern edifice, and several privileged many surfaces, and large masterful paintings the churches visited and saints venerated, seminarians toured this excavation, which appear at every turn. though impressive in length, would be leads directly to the resting place of St. Even the smallest details, including empty and dry. May we succeed instead, in Peter, surrounded by the monument built to those destined to be rarely if ever seen, replicating for our readers insofar as our his memory by the emperor Constantine. received the careful attentions of their medium permits, the experiences of this The Princes of the Apostles are not the crafters. Examples of devotion to this work summer, highlighting especially those things only saints to repose in Rome. A great many for God, not for the praise of men, can be more intimately connected with our Faith of the most glorious lights of the church and seen in the sacristies of these churches and and with our studies. closest friends of God may be found interred in the choir lofts. Some of the most striking in the many churches of works of art are hidden from normal view, the city, mostly beneath like the crypt of St. Cecilia’s, or the mosaics altars. This fitting practice on the upper floor of St. Mary Major. Even shows the close link of the in the private cloisters attached to some Communion of Saints with churches, these beautiful features abound. the Sacrifice of the Mass Each work shows the love and intention of and recalls that every priest the artist, not art for art’s sake, but rather This magnificently decorated crypt offers Mass on the relics of for the purpose of prayer. The greatest houses the relics of St Cecilia. martyrs. Crystal reliquaries example is the Benedictine monastery beneath altars present many arms and stern visage; every Apostle along of Subiaco, built in and around the cave miraculously incorrupt the nave of St. John Lateran in gigantic where St. Benedict first retreated from the saints, such as St. Pius X relief yet exquisite detail strikes a diverse world, where in the chapel every available and St. Philip Neri. Vice- stance; and the Blessed Virgin holds the surface has been painted with extraordinary Rector Fr. Thomas Asher broken body of her Son in ’s intricacy and care. St. Paul’s simple tomb rests just behind this railing had the good fortune to celebrate Mass over famous Pieta. Each statue invites the The eye easily drifts to individual underneath the high altar in the Pauline basilica. the bodies of both of these saintly priests. beholder to a different attitude of prayer and details or splashes of color, but only the A statue in their likeness decorates to the imitation of specific virtues. soul appreciates the harmony of the whole. Rome is the city of Sts. Peter and the tombs of other saints; the most famous Indeed, every aspect of each church Each individual church received a specific Paul, and these two great Apostles, who example being that of St. Cecilia. Statues intends to lead the soul to prayer. God has architectural style in its construction, as consecrated the city with the shedding of perch everywhere in the city: inside the ordained that the soul is affected by what best suiting the prayer life of the faithful their blood, receive suitable honor in all the churches, above the entrances, in cloisters, the body senses. With this in mind, the or community of that church. For example, churches, but especially in the great basilicas and on display in museums. These marble architects and artists spared no effort in the vibrant colors and magnificent flowing dedicated to their relics: St. Peter’s at the sculptures, skillfully crafted for the honor of decoration and adornment, where each detail lines of the Period dominate the Vatican and St. Paul’s Outside-the-Walls. the saint and for the glory of God, express may aid the soul in its flight to God. Even Jesuit church of the Gesù, a fitting response The center and focus of these churches is the consummate skill of their artisans. Some physically, the design of most churches to the iconoclasm of the Protestants. The the altar of the confessio, built directly represent the saint with the instrument of causes one to look upwards. The pinnacle of Dominican church of Santa Maria Sopra above the tomb of each of their sufferings or martyrdom—St. Sebastian many churches is the dome, usually flooded Minerva, built above the these Apostles. ruins of a pagan temple, The seminarians pose in the courtyard of the French Seminary in Rome, Santa Chiara, where their founder received his priestly formation from 1923-1929. Cover page, header - The facade of St. John Lateran

Opposite page, header - Apse mosaic in St. Paul Outside the Walls

On this page: St. Peter’s - Michelangelo’s Pieta Monte Cassino - Inside the basilica The updated version of the St. Mary Major - The baldacchino Seminary website now available at Monastery of Subiaco - Relief from the upper church www.stas.org provides us with the St. Mary Major - Reliquary containing the crib of Bethlehem perfect opportunity to share more St. John Lateran - The coffered ceiling in the nave photos with you. With over 3,000 Genezzano - The miraculous icon of Our Lady of Good Counsel photos taken during the course St. Mary Major - The mosaic behind the high altar of the trip, only a small fraction St. Paul Outside the Walls appear in this issue. To view more, St. Cecilia - Stefano Maderno’s statue of St. Cecilia please visit the website and navigate St. John Lateran - The baldacchino and the high altar to the Photo Gallery. St. Peter’s Square as seen from the dome Onward and Upward ome cannot boast a monopoly of St. John Bosco, who worked miracles on sanctity and beauty. She of conversion with inmates of Death Row. Rindeed possesses the most Of course, the Church of the Holy Shroud beautiful and renowned sacred edifices, of Turin would normally be first on the list and with good reason, as mistress of all of places to visit. While many seminarians the churches. Her saints, native born or wished to see this precious and controversial not, outnumber those of any other place relic, it is only exposed at certain times, and her historical importance outstrips and July 2009 was not one of these. that of entire nations. Nonetheless, any As the journey to Ecône resumed, the bulk of the Europe trip, the seminarians visitor to this city with over four hundred mountains began thrusting themselves decided to take in a little of nature’s beauty churches and countless lesser monuments up where fields had lain before, and the as well. Accordingly, they trekked into would face a desperate task attempting temperature dropped as the bus climbed the Alps to Triente glacier. The sights, to experience everything she has to offer. into the Alps, straining for the Grand Saint sounds, and smells of wooded mountains In two weeks, the seminarians could only refreshed the artistic palate of seminarians hope to see the more significant attractions and prepared them for a few more sights. in this city at the heart of the Church. The The last churches to visit were all in remaining week left to them a visit to the the town of Sion, the diocesan seat of Valais. birthplace and moral center of their Society, After looking a little at the “new” cathedral, Switzerland and the Seminary of Ecône. which is centuries old, everyone turned his The road there, however, abounded attention to the old one. Perched high up with tantalizing detours. Pisa attracted on a hill outside of town, the Old Cathedral their attention first. Famous mostly for its is one of only three churches in Europe to In marvelous shape - St. John Leaning Tower and its surprising failure to still have a “rood-screen” or “Jube,” a sort Bosco’s incorrupt body. collapse under severe inclination, it deserves of low stone wall with a Calvary scene (the recognition rather for its cathedral, built in Bernard Pass and the Swiss border. For “rood” or cross) separating the sanctuary a mixture of styles with round Romanesque centuries, this pass provided the safest route from the nave. The faithful in the nave arches predominating, and full of excellent for those crossing the Alps into , but would only hear the Mass celebrated on the A seminarian prays the breviary in the medieval carvings and mosaics. The Leaning “safe” is a relative term in these mountains other side, seeing nothing unless the small Church of the Consolata in Turin. Tower is, in fact, only the bell tower for of frequent avalanche and freezing winter door in the middle of the screen was opened. lenses through which they see the world, this cathedral and the attached baptistery. temperatures. To alleviate these dangers, A tour of the sanctuary also revealed the in trying to see everything they end by God inspired Saint Bernard of Menthon intricate and brightly painted stone-work seeing nothing. Accordingly, those who to found an order devoted to caring for of the Middle Ages along with the only visit the famous places of the world often travelers in these parts, many of whom evidence of Baroque art in the entire return home as empty as they departed, with were pilgrims on their way to and from church, a heavy and ornate set of choir nothing but handfuls of souvenirs and an Rome. These Canons of St. Bernard still stalls illustrating the history of the Passion. endless slideshow to show everyone what carry out this work today in addition to With these final stops, the funds they themselves missed. Surely the goal of raising the now famous St. Bernard dogs and time allotted for the sightseeing had tourism is more properly to see something and training them for mountain rescue petered out and the moment to return to that is rightly famous, and return home the work. The chief attractions here, beside the dogs, were the impressive scenery, the chapel where the canons once brought Next to the cathedral which it serves as a bell tower, to the desolate mountains the unceasing Pisa’s Leaning Tower takes on a different significance. praises of the Liturgy, and a small museum The next stop, Turin, produced an showcasing the history of the place. astonishing flourish of sanctity in the 19th Once through the pass, entering the century. It is the home of the renowned Swiss canton of the Valais, only a short Oratory where St. John Bosco once distance remained to the Seminary of Ecône. trained so many boys to be good Catholic Originally a house of the above mentioned gentlemen. Here the saint built a beautiful St. Bernard Canons, Ecône evidences little church, Santa Maria Ausiliatrice, with a of the retrofitting and repairs so common large painted dome and a picture of the in the American Seminary. It boasts a very church’s patron, Mary Help of Christians, handsome chapel, the newest building there, over the altar. His relics and those of his carpeted corridors that make for a deep and best pupil, St. Dominic Savio, repose recollecting silence, and the mortal remains At Ecône: there. St. Benedict Joseph Cottolengo, a of Archbishop Lefebvre. Bishop Tissier Above: Msgr. Lefebvre’s office, preserved as he contemporary of Don Bosco’s, may not de Mallerais resides at Ecône, and he was kept it, reflects the poverty he practiced in life. be well known in America, but this holy happy to lead the seminarians on a tour of At left: Fifth-year seminarian Therasian Babu man devoted his life to caring for the sick their founder’s rooms, after which they all Xavier and Rev. Mr. John Bourbeau stand in front and abandoned, founding a hospital and a went to pray at his tomb, where he rests of the statue of St. Pius X in the courtyard. religious order, which still operate in the alongside other deceased members of the city. Finally, in the church of the Consolata, Society. Everyone agreed that it was good the States arrived. Even in three weeks of better for it, and this is the attitude that the seminarians venerated the remains of St. to be here, and would have been content if lightning tourism, much was left unseen. priests of the Seminary, as guides, tried hard Joseph Cafasso, close friend and confessor they had seen nothing else in the Valais. In Europe hundreds of monuments of to impress upon their charges. Truly, the Of course, there was plenty more to Catholic tradition compete for attention; old things did not become famous without see. Not far from Ecône, lie the relics of St this one has a famous sculpture, that one is reason but because they have something Maurice. A Roman soldier, the saint was the last of its kind, and this other entombs eternal about them, something that acts as cut down with his entire legion for refusing the body of a great saint. But is the goal of an escalator that lifts a man up above daily to participate in the pagan sacrifices before good tourism to see everything? Certainly, life, impressing on him a higher reality. a battle. Here one can see the field which most tourists today are like children on a In Rome it is attachment to the Vicar of was once knee-deep in the blood of saints, scavenger hunt, rushing from place to place, Christ. In works of art it is the greatness of and the stone on which they were executed. hastily checking off another monument the gifts God has given to men, or maybe Then, as a change of pace from all the visits without really looking at it or gaining an important truth expressed symbolically to churches and ancient ruins which made up anything from it. As blind as the camera in wood, stone, or paint. In Ecône, it is the spirit of the Priestly Society, of Archbishop Lefebvre, who ordered the trip to Rome as the way for seminarians to absorb the true spirit of the Church. Finally, in many ancient and in some modern churches, it is simply Tradition—the timeless way in which the Church changes without changing—tailoring or embellishing the garments of architectural and ritual style to better express the truths of the Faith, which remain always the same, then, now, and forever.

In the Swiss Alps: Seminarians experience the attractions of fondue (top-left) ← A view of Triente glacier. ↑ The Grand St. Bernard Pass