Debbie Smith [email protected] www.goodmemoriestravel.com 321-338-2953

LISBON,

OVERVIEW

Introduction

The hodgepodge of historical periods and cultures represented in , Portugal, is a major source of its charm and travel appeal. A sprawling city on the banks of the River, Lisbon constantly reminds travelers that Portugal has been conquered several times, that it developed (and lost) its own illustrious empire and that, for much of the 20th century, it isolated itself from the rest of the world.

But when Portugal joined the in 1986, it experienced a major economic boost. A completely new quarter sprang up on the banks of the Tagus. Lisbon is modernizing fast as a European travel destination.

As visitors to Portugal walk Lisbon's hills—or, better, take one of Lisbon's vintage —they'll find restored medieval facades, wonderful art-nouveau buildings, black-and-white mosaic (known as calcada), fine museums and plenty of modern shops.

Lisbon's citizens seem to have absorbed their city's many-sided character. Visitors can witness the popularity of fado, the melancholy music that developed in Lisbon in the early-19th century. Though the performers sing about tragedy and distant glory, the audience is very much a part of modern Lisbon—a flourishing, fashionable business and leisure center.

Sights—Torre de Belem; Mosteiro dos Jeronimos; Padrao dos Descobrimentos; Se Cathedral; Elevador de Santa Justa; the view from Castelo de Sao Jorge.

Museums—Centro de Arte Moderna Jose de Azeredo Perdigao; Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga; Museu Calouste Gulbenkian; Museu Nacional dos Coches; Museu Nacional do ; Museu Berardo; Museu do Fado.

Memorable Meals—Seafood platter and steak sandwich at Sea Me; acorda de marisco (a seafood and bread dish) at Restaurante Pap'Acorda; meat dishes and Belgian beer at A Travessa; pastel de belem (custard tart) at Confeitaria de Belem.

Late Night—Barhopping in ; dancing the night away in one of the clubs in converted warehouses on Avenida 24 de Julho; a visit to Lisboa.

Walks—A stroll through or Bairro Alto; window shopping in ; a walk by the river in Parque das Nacoes or through one of the many parks and gardens.

Especially for Kids—Jardim Zoologico de Lisboa (the zoo); Oceanario de Lisboa; Museu da Marioneta; the playgrounds at Jardim da park.

The heart of Lisbon is the historical center, which borders the Tagus River (known as the Tejo in Portuguese). After an earthquake destroyed most of the city in 1755, Lisbon was rebuilt around one of 's most beautiful piazzas: the Praca do Comercio, dominated by the equestrian statue of King Jose. The area surrounding the Praca do Comercio is called Baixa. Immediately to the north is the old Square. Much of this area is now a , with metro links, as well as plenty of outdoor cafes and shops.

To the west of the Praca do Comercio is the trendy shopping district of Chiado and, farther west, the Bairro Alto, with its creative shops, fado bars and small businesses crowded in the old, twisted . To the east of Praca do Comercio is Castelo de Sao Jorge (St. George's Castle), which dominates the view toward the river. The castle was built upon the old Arab part of town. Spreading out from the castle, the neighborhoods of Alfama and Mouraria have narrow and winding streets that remind visitors of the Arab influence on the city.

The long riverfront, with its converted dock warehouses, is one of the many hot spots of Lisbon's nightlife. The docks extend westward under the , which resembles San Francisco's .

Farther west is the neighborhood of Belem, once a small fishing town. It was there in the 1500s that the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Monastery of Jeronimos) was built, along with the Torre de Belem (Tower of Belem), a fortress dominating the entrance to the river. Today, Belem is the location of Centro Cultural de Belem, the area's most important contemporary and performing-arts venue.

To the north of Lisbon's town center is the large and busy of , where the city's most fashionable shops and most active businesses are located. Northeast of the city center is Parque das Nacoes, site of the 1998 World Expo. In this sprawling park, you'll find the Oceanario de Lisboa, as well as a massive shopping mall, good hotels, theme restaurants and some bars—this is a good area to stay in if you need to be close to the airport, but it isn't representative of the city and has none of the charm and history that makes Lisbon so popular.

Other neighborhoods worth noting are Lapa (the diplomatic quarter), Principe Real and the Santos Design District. All of them appear on most maps of the city.

There is evidence of civilization in the area from as far back as the seventh century BC, but it wasn't until the second century BC that the Romans arrived. Around 60 BC, the Romans founded the colony of Felicitas Julia, which prospered as a trading center until the fifth century AD, when the Visigoths invaded. Their domination lasted more than 250 years, until Arabs and Berbers arrived from North Africa. The Arabs preserved what remained of the Roman civilization and developed their own cultural system.

In 1147, the Muslims who had settled in Lisbon were expelled by the Christians. Around 1256, Lisbon became the capital of the , which by then had clearly defined its borders. Over the years, Lisbon grew into a prosperous capital, boosted by the riches taken from its colonies. It endured two major earthquakes (in 1531 and 1755), which destroyed two-thirds of the city.

The Marques de Pombal rebuilt Lisbon. Instead of restoring damaged buildings, he opted to demolish anything unstable. He also designed Lisbon's grid system, which runs from the Praca do Comercio up to his statue on the Marques de Pombal —it constitutes the central hub for the old quarter.

In the 20th century, Lisbon was still the capital of a colonial empire, but it was no longer wealthy and powerful. After a series of costly wars with Spain, the Portuguese monarchy gradually lost the respect of its citizens, who ousted the last king in 1910. After two decades of turmoil, Dr. Antonio de Oliveira Salazar emerged as Portugal's unquestioned leader. Salazar, who ruled as prime minister for more than 35 years, isolated Portugal from the rest of Europe (thus keeping the country out of World War II) and clung to power through a brutal secret police force that censored virtually anyone who opposed him.

Salazar suffered a stroke in 1968 and was succeded by Marcelo Caetano, who maintained the dictatorial government until being overthrown by a military coup known as or the 25 April Revolution in 1974, that led to the establishment of democracy and a new Constitution. Consequently, the liberation of the Portuguese colonies in Africa provoked a boom in immigration to Portugal, creating a substantial African community in Lisbon. In 1986 Portugal joined the European Union.

Since the 1980s, Portugal has shifted from a fundamentally conservative policy influenced by the to adopting more liberal policies such as the legalization of abortion and gay marriage, and the decriminalization of drugs.

Economically, Portugal had a boom after joining the EU. Major new highways improved connections within the country and to the rest of Europe. Railroads and other public transportation were modernized. Unemployment reached a record low of 3.7% in 2000, and the percentage of the population with higher education increased dramatically.

Severe austerity measures have had an impact on daily life in Portugal, but should not affect visitors to the country except when there are transportion or general strikes.

Location

Cruise ships dock at one of four cruise ship terminals: Alcantara, Rocha Conde de Obidos, Santa Apolonia and Jardim do Tabaco (the last two often referred to simply as the Lisbon Cruise terminals). All terminals are located near Lisbon's cultural center and are within walking distance of cafes and restaurants. Alcantara and Santa Apolonia feature gift shops, and Jardim do Tabaco has a new kiosk with souvenirs including wine, art made of cork and ceramics. All terminals provide maps and information to visitors. All offer internet access except the Rocha Conde de Obidos.

A new terminal under construction is scheduled to replace Santa Apolonia and Jardim do Tabaco.

Public transport and taxis are readily available from the cruise terminals, especially Santa Apolonia, which is a transport hub. There is a tourist information office at Santa Apolonia train station—just follow the signs from the cruise terminal. http://www.portodelisboa.com.

The cruise terminals are also serviced by double-decker buses providing tours of Lisbon. Tickets are available for 24 or 48 hours allowing hop-on, hop off service between the buses and public transportation, including the trams and the famous of Santa Justa.

Half-day excursions usually consist of bus tours to the major city sites including stops at the tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade, Praca do Commercio, the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos and the Museu Nacional dos Coches. Other tours visit the chic and scenic coast and the resort of . Day trips to Obidos, Fatima and Batalha, known as the "Lourdes of Portugal," are other popular options.

Potpourri

Once a year, usually at the end of September, the city opens its subterranean district—a hidden world of Roman foundations and bridges—to the public for three days. The area beneath Rua da Conceicao was discovered after the earthquake of 1755. It is sealed by a block of metal because of unsafe conditions below.

Before Vasco da Gama left to find a new sea route to India, he prayed in an old mariners' chapel in Belem (now a neighborhood west of the center of Lisbon). The chapel was replaced with the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, where his remains now rest.

Amalia Rodrigues (1929-99), born in the poor port district of Alcantara, was Portugal's most famous fado singer. Older Portuguese men still burst into tears when they hear such immortal songs as "Cancao do Mar" ("Song of the Sea"), a touching, melancholy song.

Every year, more than 200 couples compete for the privilege of being married on 13 June, the Day of Saint Anthony. Around 30 happy couples are selected to be married in the small Igreja de Santo Antonio on this day, and they receive gifts and sponsorship from Portuguese companies for the lavish ceremonies. In 1994, the German filmmaker Wim Wenders produced the dreamy movie Lisbon Story, which featured music from the local group Madredeus, now of international fame.

The film adaptation of Pascal Mercier's 2004 novel Night Train to Lisbon, starring Christopher Lee and Jeremy Irons, was released in 2013. The story takes place during the dictatorship of Antonio Salazar, the man who governed Portugal 1932-74 and had a profound impact on the country.

A large statue of Christ—inspired by the one in Rio de Janeiro—overlooks Lisbon from its location in , on the south bank of the Tagus River.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

Much of Lisbon is still relatively free of tourist traps. You can go inside lots of churches without being asked for an admission fee. In fact, among the dozens of churches scattered throughout the city, a few are authentic jewels. Igreja de Sao Roque, for example, is decorated with precious stones, and Igreja de Sao Vicente de Fora has extraordinary (painted tiles) in its cloister. If you find an open church, peek inside—you may find a pleasant surprise.

Portuguese tiles, including the blue and white azulejos, are also on display at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, one of the best museums in the city. Other prominent museums are the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, which displays the country's artworks from the 1300s through the 1900s, and the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, which also has an impressive and wide-ranging collection.

Be sure not to miss the Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Discoveries Monument) or Castelo de Sao Jorge, which hovers over the city and provides a breathtaking view. Today very little remains of Lisbon's pre-earthquake Manueline architecture—exceptions include the Torre de Belem and the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

The best way to visit these sites and to get a real sense of Lisbon is to walk. In fact, old neighborhoods, such as the Alfama and the Bairro Alto, are the proverbial mazes of twisting streets—sometimes so narrow that no car could possibly get through. Most tourist maps don't name all the streets, so relax and enjoy getting lost for a while.

If you are planning on covering a lot of ground, consider the Lisboa Card, a multipass that can save you money on transportation. It provides access to most public transportation, as well as discounted admission at various attractions.

Casinos

You must be 18 to enter and gamble. No beachwear, long coats, helmets, hats or uniforms are allowed. Leave photographic equipment in the cloakrooms and be prepared to show ID.

If you don't look as though you're likely to spend any money there, you may be refused entry. You'll also be shown the door if your behavior or appearance is annoying other clients.

Casino Lisboa Alameda dos Oceanos 45 Opened by the group behind the famous west of the city, offers entertainment, dining and gambling that attracts a Lisbon, Portugal 1990–204 younger crowd than that of Estoril. Monday-Thursday 3 pm-3 am, Friday Phone: 21-466-7700 and Saturday 4 pm-4 am. Proper attire is required (no shorts, sandals or http://www.casino-lisboa.pt athletic shoes). Alameda dos Oceanos 45, Lisbon. Phone 21-466-7700. http://www.casino-lisboa.pt.

Castelo de Sao Jorge Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo St. George's Castle sits on one of Lisbon's highest hills. It was occupied by the Romans in 205 BC, settled by Visigoths in the fifth century and later captured from the Moors by the Portuguese king Dom Lisbon, Portugal 1100-129 Afonso Henriques in 1147. After King Manuel I left the castle in the early 16th century, the place fell into Phone: 21-880-0620 ruins. It was extensively rebuilt in the 20th century on the remains of older fortifications. http://www.castelodesaojorge.pt Though it feels more touristy than ancient, there are breathtaking views of Lisbon from several of its 10 towers and its viewing terrace. You can relax on stone benches in the shadow of mighty trees after the hike up. Do not miss the periscope installed in the Ulysses Tower that offers a 360-degree view of Lisbon when weather conditions are right—sunny mornings are best. Check the timetable for guided tours in your language. There is also a small museum showing the archaeological finds from the site. A gift shop, restaurant and coffee shop are also on-site. Daily 9 am-6 pm. 8.50 euros adults. Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo, Lisbon. Phone 21-880-0620. http://www.castelodesaojorge.pt.

Elevador de Santa Justa Largo do Carmo, Rua do Ouro Also called Elevador do Carmo, this eclectic, neo-Gothic iron lift was constructed between 1898 and 1901 by a student of Gustave Eiffel. Its Lisbon, Portugal 1150-060 two wooden cabins, which can carry 25 people, connect the Lower and Phone: 21-361-3000 Upper City. There is a great view (and cafe) over the Baixa from its http://www.carris.pt/en/elevators platform, which you can access for free from Largo do Carmo. Daily 7 am-9:45 pm October-May, 7 am-10:45 pm June-September. The lift costs 5 euros (free with Lisbon Card) and the upper viewpoint is an addtional 1.50 euros. Largo do Carmo, Rua do Ouro, Lisbon. Phone 21- 361-3000. http://www.carris.pt/en/elevators.

Igreja de Sao Roque Largo Trindade Coelho, Bairro Alto This 16th-century church with an adjoining museum is a work of art hidden behind a rather modest facade. It survived the earthquake of Lisbon, Portugal 1200-470 1755 almost unscathed. One of its most beautiful chapels, the Phone: 21-323-5065 Chapel of St. John the Baptist, commissioned by King Joao V, was http://www.museudesaoroque.com lavishly decorated with precious stones, exotic woods and richly painted tiles during the country's most opulent period. The entire chapel was constructed in , and then disassembled and shipped to Lisbon in 1747. Guided tours in English take place April-September Thursday and Sunday at 3 pm, Friday at 11:30 am and 4:30 pm, Saturday at 10 am. 2.50 euros. Largo Trindade Coelho, Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-323- 5065. http://www.museudesaoroque.com.

Mosteiro e Igreja de Sao Vicente de Fora Largo de Sao Vicente This church and monastery, built between 1582 and 1629 under the Lisbon, Portugal guidance of Italian master Filipo Terzi, is clad in white marble and decorated with precious paintings and sculptures. The cloister has some Phone: 21-882-4400 of the best azulejos (blue and white painted tiles) in the city. You can http://www.igespar.pt/en/patrimonio/pesquisa/geral/patrimonioimovel/detail/71213 climb the church roof for a great view over Lisbon. Tuesday-Saturday 8 am-1 pm and 2:30-5 pm, Sunday 8 am-noon. Admission to the church is free; admission to the monastery is 5 euros. Largo de Sao Vicente, Lisbon. Phone 21-882-4400. http://www.igespar.pt/en/patrimonio/pesquisa/geral/patrimonioimovel/detail/71213.

Se Cathedral Largo da Se Lisbon's cathedral (Se is short for sedes episcopalis, the bishop's seat), the oldest church in the city, dates from 1147, and most likely was built on the site of an ancient mosque. Its original Romanesque Lisbon, Portugal 1100-585 design was transformed over the centuries, incorporating elements of various architectural and Phone: 21-887-6628 decorative styles. St. Anthony of Lisbon was baptized there, and members of the Portuguese nobility were buried there. Visit the cloister and the adjacent museum, which details the cathedral's past. The prime object of the treasure is a golden ostensorium dating from 1760. Under the garden of the cloister are remains of a and canal from Roman times. There are occasional organ concerts—check locally for a schedule. 2.50 euros to enter the cloister, 2.50 euros to enter the treasury museum. Largo da Se, Alfama, Lisbon. Phone 21-887-6628.

Arpad Szenes-Vieira da Silva Foundation Praca das Amoreiras 56-58, Rato This museum is a small gem for those who are interested in modern Portuguese art and culture. Vieira da Silva was one of the most Lisbon, Portugal 1250-096 acclaimed modern painters in Portugal. She and her husband, Arpad Phone: 21-388-0044 Szenes, produced an impressive collection of work that's displayed http://www.fasvs.pt there, along with the art of many of their contemporaries. Tuesday- Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 5 euros. Praca das Amoreiras 56-58, Rato, Lisbon. Phone 21-388-0044. http://www.fasvs.pt.

Centro de Arte Moderna Jose de Azeredo Perdigao Rua Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt This museum, located in an old silk factory, houses part of the collection assembled by oil magnate and philanthropist Calouste Gulbenkian, who Lisbon, Portugal 1050-078 found asylum in Portugal during World War II. It is devoted to 20th- Phone: 21-782-3474 century and contemporary art, particularly the works of Portuguese http://cam.gulbenkian.pt artists. Excellent cafeteria and gardens. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-6 pm. 5 euros adults. Rua Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt, Lisbon. Phone 21- 782-3474. http://cam.gulbenkian.pt.

Lisbon Story Centre Terreiro do Paco 78-81 This multimedia space provides visitors with a deeper understanding of Lisbon's history, from the Phoenecians to the present day. An Lisbon, Portugal 1100-148 audioguide talks you through the major influences on the city over the Phone: 21-194-1099 centuries. The museum's highlight is a reconstruction of the day of the http://www.lisboastorycentre.pt earthquake in 1755. Daily 10 am-8 pm. 7 euros adults. Terreiro do Paco 78-81, Lisbon. Phone 21-194-1099. http://www.lisboastorycentre.pt.

Museu Berardo Praca do Imperio The biggest names of international contemporary and modern art such as Warhol and Picasso are represented at this 21st-century museum. It Lisbon, Portugal 1449-003 presents major temporary exhibitions together with the permanent Phone: 21-361-2878 collection belonging to Portuguese millionaire businessman Joe http://www.museuberardo.pt Berardo. Daily 10 am-7 pm. 5 euros adults. Praca do Imperio, Lisbon. Phone 21-361-2878. http://www.museuberardo.pt.

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian Ave. de Berna 45-A The once-private collection in this museum includes artwork from Lisbon, Portugal 1067-001 ancient Egypt, the Islamic East and the Far East. The European galleries display art and decorative arts of the 14th-19th centuries; Phone: 21-782-3000 illuminated manuscripts; paintings by Rembrandt and Rubens; works by https://gulbenkian.pt/museu impressionists such as Turner, Monet, Degas and Renoir; French Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture; and Lalique glassware and jewelry. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-6 pm. 10 euros adults. Ave. de Berna 45-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-782-3000. https://gulbenkian.pt/museu.

Museu da Marioneta Rua da Esperanca 146 Even if you have no special interest in puppets, this museum, housed in an old convent, is worth a visit. Its collection includes puppets from Lisbon, Portugal 1200-660 every continent and an in-depth history of puppetry in Portugal. You can Phone: 21-394-2810 put on your own Punch and Judy show or practice manipulating the http://www.museudamarioneta.pt frames and strings. There are often professional puppet shows held at the museum (check the website for details). Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 5 euros adults. Rua da Esperanca 146, Lisbon. Phone 21-394- 2810. http://www.museudamarioneta.pt.

Museu de Sao Roque Largo Trindade Coelho, Bairro Alto At the entrance of the Bairro Alto, this small museum displays paintings Lisbon, Portugal 1200-470 and religious articles connected to Igreja de Sao Roque. Of special interest are objects from the church's elaborate Chapel of St. John the Phone: 21-323-5065 Baptist. April-September Monday 2-7 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday and http://www.museu-saoroque.com Friday-Sunday 9 am-7 pm; Thursday 9 am-8 pm. 2.50 euros general admission. Largo Trindade Coelho, Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-323- 5065. http://www.museu-saoroque.com.

Museu do Chiado-Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporanea Rua Pinto 4 This museum exhibits art from the 1850s to the 1950s, tracing the Lisbon, Portugal 1200-444 development from romanticism to modernism. Look for works by the Portuguese artist Almada Negreiros and fine sculptures by Auguste Phone: 21-343-2148 Rodin. There is a nice terrace café on-site. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 http://www.museuartecontemporanea.gov.pt pm. 4.50 euros adults. Rua Serpa Pinto 4, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21- 343-2148. http://www.museuartecontemporanea.gov.pt.

Museu do Fado Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1 This museum documents the history and development of the traditional Lisbon, Portugal 1100-139 music known as fado. It includes audiovisual displays, costumes and a wonderful collection of Portuguese guitars. There is a re-creation of the Phone: 21-882-3470 Casa da Mariquinhas, a house of ill-repute made famous by a fado http://www.museudofado.pt song. There's also a shop with books and recordings. There are concerts some Thursday evenings. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 5 euros. Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1, Alfama, Lisbon. Phone 21-882- 3470. http://www.museudofado.pt.

Museu do Oriente Avenida Brasilia This museum, located by the river, is home to an extensive collection of Lisbon, Portugal 1350-352 Asian art and artifacts. Part of the collection is based around Portugal's presence and sphere of influence in the Far East, with exceptional Phone: 21-358-5200 pieces from China and Japan. The remaining exhibition was donated by http://www.museudooriente.pt the Kwok On Museum Association in Paris and covers religious and performing arts from countries spanning from Turkey to Japan. The museum has regular temporary exhibitions, talks and shows. There is also a cafe, restaurant and shop. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm, Friday 10 am-10 pm. 6 euros adults. Avenida Brasilia, Doca de Alcantara, Lisbon. Phone 21-358-5200. http://www.museudooriente.pt.

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Rua das Janelas Verdes Housed in a 17th-century palace, this is perhaps the city's best Lisbon, Portugal 1249-017 museum. The gallery displays art from the 14th-19th centuries, including works by Cranach, Bosch, Holbein, Velasquez and Durer. The Phone: 21-391-2800 masterpiece of the collection is one of the most famous pieces of http://www.museudearteantiga.pt Portuguese art: The Paneis de Sao Vicente, built between 1467 and 1470 by Nuno Goncalves. The painted panels of this altarpiece depict the late medieval Portuguese aristocracy and society. There are some ancient objects from Japan, Africa and China as well. On-site is a cafe with a lovely garden. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 6 euros. Rua das Janelas Verdes, Lapa, Lisbon. Phone 21-391-2800. http://www.museudearteantiga.pt.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo Rua da Madre de Deus 4 The blue-and-white azulejos have a special place in Portuguese culture. Lisbon, Portugal 1900-312 You'll find unmistakable Arabic influences in the many tiled panels, which were used both as decoration and as a way of moderating the Phone: 21-810-0340 temperature of houses. The museum features a 65-ft-/20-m-long http://www.museudoazulejo.gov.pt cityscape of Lisbon as it looked before the earthquake of 1755. It occupies a former convent that is one of the most attractive buildings in the city. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 5 euros adults. Rua da Madre de Deus 4, Lisbon. Phone 21-810-0340. http://www.museudoazulejo.gov.pt.

Alfama Lisbon, Portugal Spreading downhill toward the river from Castelo de Sao Jorge, the Alfama evokes medieval Lisbon. This old Arab neighborhood is one of the most attractive parts of the city—be sure to walk its narrow streets, peeking into its many alleys, courtyards and traditional shops. If you're lucky, you'll end up discovering an arraial, a spontaneous party in the middle of the street. On 13 June, the streets are full of people enjoying grilled sardines, wine and music as groups representing different neighborhoods parade along Avenida Liberdade in colorful costumes. The party is a citywide event in honor of Saint Anthony.

Bairro Alto Lisbon, Portugal This colorful neighborhood of bars, restaurants and fado houses has preserved some of old Lisbon in its architecture and narrow streets. In the evenings, the area comes alive with night owls of all ages and persuasions. Hold on to your wallet—pickpockets are fond of this area, too. The Bairro Alto is just northwest of Chiado.

Baixa Lisbon, Portugal At the base of hilly Alfama you'll find the flat, gridlike streets that characterize the area behind Praca do Comercio. The Baixa is full of banks, shops, cafes and restaurants. Some have been there for decades, while new shops and cafes are revitalizing what was becoming a rather neglected area. It's a popular spot for street performers.

Chiado Lisbon, Portugal Gradually climbing uphill to the west of the Baixa is the trendy shopping and restaurant district of Chiado. Home to the iconic Cafe a Brasileira, the Armazens do Chiado shopping center, and many design shops and familiar high street brands, this area is always busy with shoppers and restaurantgoers.

Estufa Fria Parquet Eduardo VII The name translates to "cold greenhouse," and it's one of the most pleasant and most visited gardens in Lisbon. Visitors enjoy walks among Lisbon, Portugal a rich variety of plants, ponds, streams, waterfalls and statuary. Daily 10 am-7 pm April-October, 9 am-5 pm November-March. Parquet Eduardo VII, Lisbon.

Jardim Amalia Rodrigues Rua Marques Fronteira 18-28 This landscaped garden sits atop Parque Eduardo VII and pays homage Lisbon, Portugal 1070-051 to Lisbon's most famous fado singer, Amalia Rodrigues. It also rewards visitors with sculptures and views over the city and the river. The glass- http://www.cm- fronted lakeside cafe-restaurant Linha d'Agua is a perfect spot for lisboa.pt/en/equipments/equipamento/info/jardim- refreshments, whatever the weather. Daily 24 hours. Free. Rua amalia-rodrigues Marques Fronteira 18-28, Lisbon. http://www.cm- lisboa.pt/en/equipments/equipamento/info/jardim-amalia-rodrigues.

Jardim Botanico da Universidade de Lisboa Rua da Escola Politecnica, Principe Real Lisbon's main botanical garden, which spreads across 10 acres/4 Lisbon, Portugal 1250-102 hectares, lies close to the heart of the city. It's one of the most beautiful of its kind in Europe and has a butterfly garden. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am- Phone: 21-392-1800 8 pm April-October; daily 9 am-6 pm November-March. Butterfly garden http://www.museus.ulisboa.pt/jardim-botanico Tuesday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-5 pm late March to mid-November. 2 euros adults. Rua da Escola Politecnica, Principe Real, Lisbon. Phone 21-392-1800. http://www.museus.ulisboa.pt/jardim-botanico.

Jardim Botanico Tropical Largo dos Jeronimos Opposite the Jeronimos' Monastery in Belem, you can escape the Lisbon, Portugal 1400-171 crowds and take a stroll through the exotic tropical and subtropical foliage of this botanical garden. Art exhibitions are often held in the Phone: 21-360-9660 Palacio dos Condes da Calheta within the grounds; check the website http://www2.iict.pt for details and opening times. Daily 10 am-5 pm November-January, 10 am-6 pm February, March and October, 10 am-7 pm April and September, 10 am-8 pm May-August. 2 euros adults. Largo dos Jeronimos, Belem, Lisbon. Phone 21-360-9660. http://www2.iict.pt.

Jardim da Estrela Praca da Estrela You'll find this family-friendly park opposite the Basilica da Estrela on the Lisbon, Portugal 1200-667 25 and 28 routes. With shaded walkways, ponds, beautiful bandstands and several exercise posts, as well as a children's play http://www.cm- area, this is a great place to grab a bench for a bit of people-watching. lisboa.pt/equipamentos/equipamento/info/jardim- Daily 7 am-midnight. Free. Praca da Estrela, Lapa, Lisbon. da-estrela-jardim-guerra-junqueiro http://www.cm-lisboa.pt/equipamentos/equipamento/info/jardim-da- estrela-jardim-guerra-junqueiro.

Jardim da Fundacao Calouste Gulbenkian Ave. de Berna 45-A The gardens of this museum and art gallery are a peaceful haven and a Lisbon, Portugal 1067-001 perfect place to relax away from the hustle and bustle of the city, even if you're not visiting the collections. With duck ponds and streams, grassy Phone: 21-782-3000 banks and a wide variety of plants and spaces, it's hard to drag yourself http://www.gulbenkian.pt/Jardins away. Free. Ave. de Berna 45-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-782-3000. http://www.gulbenkian.pt/Jardins.

Jardim Zoologico de Lisboa Praca Marechal Humberto Delgado, Sete-Rios This zoo features both land and sea creatures and hosts a number of Lisbon, Portugal 1549-004 animal presentations and feedings. It also has several places to eat and an amusement park. Daily 10 am-8 pm March-September, 10 am-6 pm Phone: 21-723-2910 October-February. 18.50 euros adults. Praca Marechal Humberto http://www.zoolisboa.pt Delgado, Sete-Rios (main entrance), Lisbon. Phone 21-723-2910. http://www.zoolisboa.pt.

Oceanario de Lisboa Esplanada D. Carlos I, Doca dos , Designed by aquarium guru Peter Chermayeff, the Oceanarium is an Parque das Nacoes absolute must for all who love the sea. It has separate areas with habitats representing the four oceans, as well as smaller tanks for Lisbon, Portugal 1990-005 specific species of sea animals. Daily 10 am-7 pm in winter, 10 am-8 pm Phone: 21-891-7000 in summer. 16 euros adults. Esplanada D. Carlos I, Doca dos Olivais, http://www.oceanario.pt Parque das Nacoes, Lisbon. Phone 21-891-7000. http://www.oceanario.pt.

Recreation

Exercise is popular in Lisbon, with many Lisboans are spending their lunch breaks swimming or playing tennis in one of the many health clubs in the city.

Lisbon's weather encourages an active lifestyle, and cycling, jogging and walking paths are located around the city. Many parks are equipped with exercise routes and equipment.

Golf is popular, and there are usually a handful of people enjoying watersports along the area's beaches.

Beaches

Estoril Coast and Lisbon, Portugal Just a 40-minute train ride from Cais de Sodre station gets you to a https://www.visitportugal.com/en/node/73778 string of cove-sheltered beaches 12 mi/19 km from Lisbon. Activities there include surfing, kite surfing, horseback riding, sailing, canoeing and diving. The calmer waters of Cascais Bay are ideal for waterskiing. https://www.visitportugal.com/en/node/73778.

The preserves around Lisbon provide excellent environments for bird-watchers. About 15 mi/24 km to the south, the Serra da Arrabida Natural Park stretches out across an area of 26,690 acres/10,800 hectares. There you will find nature at its best—including a rare species of mountain goat that feeds exclusively on seaweed and shellfish. To the south of the Setubal Peninsula, the equally stunning Natural Reserve of the Sado Estuary is best seen by boat, as it covers an enormous area of 57,230 acres/23,160 hectares. Not far away, the Natural Reserve of the Tejo Estuary extends from North of to the estuary waters. The main attraction is the winter bird population of more than 70,000—including flocks of flamingos.

Even within the boundaries of the city, proximity to the ocean, mountains and river provides a diversity of habitats that support many different bird species. For an identification guide to bird species and the best places in the city to observe them, visit: http://lisbon.avesdeportugal.info/index.html.

Birdwatching Lisbon 26 Estrada da Luz Full-day and half-day tours are available on request. Prices include door Lisbon, Portugal 1600-159 to door transportation, use of optical equipment and guidance by experienced field ornithologists. Main destinations are Tagus Estuary Phone: 967-708-310 Nature Reserve and Sado Estuary Nature Reserve. Half-day tours 100 http://birdwatchinglisbon.com euros-130 euros per person. Full-day tours 160 euros-190 euros. 26 Estrada da Luz, Lisbon. Phone 967-708-310. http://birdwatchinglisbon.com.

Garden of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation 45A Ave. de Berna With a lake and large trees, moorhen as well as white wagtail and some Lisbon, Portugal 1067-001 serins can be found in this quiet, beautiful park. Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. Free entrance. 45A Ave. de Berna, Lisbon. Phone 21-782-3000. Phone: 21-782-3000 http://www.gulbenkian.pt/Jardins/avifauna.html. http://www.gulbenkian.pt/Jardins/avifauna.html

Monteiro-Mor Park Largo Julio de Castilho, Also known as the Sculpture Garden, this park has large trees and a Lisbon, Portugal wall that buffers the city noises. Ring-necked parakeet can often be seen there. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 2 euros. Largo Julio de http://lisbon.avesdeportugal.info/monteiromor.html Castilho, Lumiar, Lisbon. http://lisbon.avesdeportugal.info/monteiromor.html.

Holmes Place Ave. Defensores de Chaves 45-B Holmes Place has 12 state-of-the-art clubs in and around Lisbon that Lisbon, Portugal 1000-112 offer a wide range of activities. Facilities include indoor swimming pools, fitness training, yoga and martial arts. Monday-Friday 6:30 am-10:30 Phone: 21-351-1300 pm, Saturday 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Ave. Defensores de http://www.holmesplace.com Chaves 45-B, Lisbon. Phone 21-351-1300. http://www.holmesplace.com.

LA Spa Ave. da Liberdade 177-A Lanidor ("LA") is a well-known upmarket Portuguese fashion brand, and Lisbon, Portugal 1250-140 its flagship boutique on Lisbon's main also has cafe service and a luxurious spa. It has a sophisticated ambience for a rejuvenating facial Phone: 21-314-4551 or body treatments. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7:30 pm. Ave. da http://www.lanidor.com/la-spa Liberdade 177-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-314-4551. http://www.lanidor.com/la-spa.

Spirito Spa Rua Latino Coelho 1 The spa at the Sheraton Lisboa Hotel is regarded as one of the city's Lisbon, Portugal 1069-025 best, offering Mediterranean-inspired treatments as well as a fitness center, heated outdoor pool, whirlpool and hair care services. It's open Phone: 21-312-0213 to nonhotel guests, and gift vouchers are available. Daily 7 am-10 pm. https://www.marriott.com/hotels/hotel- Rua Latino Coelho 1, Lisbon. Phone 21-312-0213. information/fitness-spa-services/lissi-sheraton- https://www.marriott.com/hotels/hotel-information/fitness-spa- lisboa-hotel-and-spa services/lissi-sheraton-lisboa-hotel-and-spa.

The coast provides excellent conditions for surfing and windsurfing—particularly at Guincho, where major tournaments are often held. Ericeira, a small village about 12 mi/20 km north of Guincho, also attracts surfers.

Nightlife

Lisbon's nightlife options include everything from cozy bars, chic nightclubs and frenetic discos to great live-music spots (especially African music). But many tourists in Lisbon spend their evenings listening to fado, the distinctly Portuguese music known for its wistful style. A night or two of fado is an absolute must: The music is not heard much outside the capital (except in the city of ), and it's easy to enjoy, even if you don't speak a word of Portuguese.

Fado, which translates loosely as "fate," is more about feelings than lyrics. Fado was first heard two centuries ago in brothels and taverns across Lisbon, and seedy dives in the Alfama neighborhood still provide the best performances.

Late-night hot spots include bars and restaurants in converted warehouses along the riverfront docks (the docas area); Parque das Nacoes, with a wide variety of bars along the river; and Bairro Alto, Lisbon's bohemian quarter and home to many bars of all persuasions. Cais do Sodre, the former red-light district, has become Lisbon's coolest nightspot. Don't worry if a club has a sign at the door asking for a minimum consumption (consumo minimo) of 150 euros or even 500 euros. This is just to deter unwanted guests, as Portuguese law technically doesn't allow the restriction of public access to public places. Usually the consumo minimo is much less or is not charged at all.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

A Capela Rua Atalia 45 Behind the red velvet curtain lies a narrow bar with stone floors and Lisbon, Portugal 1200-037 vintage decor. In the afternoon and early evening it's a fairly quiet wine bar, but later on the DJ draws the crowds off the streets of Bairro Alto Phone: 21-347-0072 onto its tiny dance floor. Sunday-Thursday 8 pm-2 am, Friday and http://www.facebook.com/acapelabar Saturday 8 pm-3 am. Rua Atalia 45, Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-347- 0072. http://www.facebook.com/acapelabar.

Casa Independente Largo do Intendente 45 There's no sign outside this bar; just go through the big green doors opposite the swirly red sculpture in the square and you'll find it on the Lisbon, Portugal 1100-285 first floor. Aimed at the arty crowd, the rooms are outfitted with old Phone: 21-887-2842 furniture, paintings and stacks of suitcases. Hopping on weekends and a http://www.casaindependente.com great place to chill out earlier in the day. Snacks are available, too. Tuesday-Thursday 11 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 11 am-2 am (kitchen closes at 11 pm). Largo do Intendente 45, Lisbon. Phone 21- 887-2842. http://www.casaindependente.com.

Chafariz do Vinho-Enoteca Rua Mae de Agua Housed in an 11th-century building that once supplied Lisbon with its Lisbon, Portugal 1250 000 water (it is still filled with gigantic pipes), this bar offers a huge range of wines and appetizers. Daily 6 pm-2 am. Rua Mae de Agua (at Praca de Phone: 21-342-2079 Alegria), Lisbon. Phone 21-342-2079. http://www.chafarizdovinho.com. http://www.chafarizdovinho.com

Chapito Costa do Castelo 1-7 This circus school has a bar, cafe and restaurant on-site that are Lisbon, Portugal 1149 079 open to the public. It also has one of the best views in the city. Tuesday- Sunday noon-2 am. Costa do Castelo 1-7, Lisbon. Phone 21-885-5550. Phone: 21-885-5550 http://www.chapito.org. http://www.chapito.org

Hennessy's Irish Pub Rua do Cais do Sodre 32-38 This was one of the first Irish pubs to appear in Lisbon and still is one of Lisbon, Portugal 1200 450 the best-loved. Its lazy-afternoon mood is inviting, if a bit smoky, and its animated evenings, with live Irish music, are always fun. Hennessy's is Phone: 21-346-2467 one of the few places in the city that serves Guinness beer on tap. Great http://www.hennessys-pub.com steaks. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-2 am, Friday and Saturday 11 am-4 am. Rua do Cais do Sodre 32-38 (near the Cais do Sodre metro stop), Lisbon. Phone 21-346-2467. http://www.hennessys-pub.com.

Instituto do Vinho do /Solar do Vinho do Porto Rua Sao Pedro de Alcantara 45 This place is a safe haven from the agitation of more frenetic nightspots. Lisbon, Portugal 1250-237 There you can taste more than 120 varieties of port. Monday-Friday 11 am-midnight, Saturday 3 pm-midnight. Rua Sao Pedro de Alcantara 45, Phone: 21-347-5707 Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-347-5707. http://ivdp.pt. http://ivdp.pt

Mahjong Rua Atalia 3 The cabbage lampshades and dark walls of this popular Bairro Alto bar Lisbon, Portugal 1200-050 add to its laid-back but fun atmosphere. Daily 7 pm-4 am. Rua Atalia 3, Bairro Alto, Lisbon.

Pavilhao Chines Rua Dom Pedro V 89-91 This large bar has several rooms—each with its own theme. Most of the Lisbon, Portugal 1250-093 shelves are filled with old toys, flasks and miniatures. A definite must for those seeking a calm and relaxed mood or an array of bizarre Phone: 21-342-4729 collections. Wide range of cocktails and teas. Ring the bell for entry. https://www.facebook.com/pavilhaochineslisboa Monday-Saturday from 6 pm, Sunday 9 pm-2 am. Rua Dom Pedro V 89-91, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-4729. https://www.facebook.com/pavilhaochineslisboa.

Pensao Amor Rua Alecrim 19 This former brothel has become one of Lisbon's hottest nightspots in the Lisbon, Portugal 1200-292 revamped red-light district of Cais do Sodre. It retains its risque boudoir decorations and is the place to enjoy a few drinks before hitting the Phone: 21-314-3399 clubs. If you want a seat, get there before 10:30 pm—after that the http://www.pensaoamor.pt place is pretty crowded. Rua Alecrim 19, Lisbon. Phone 21-314-3399. http://www.pensaoamor.pt.

Sol e Pesca Rua Nova do Carvalho 44 This tiny bar in Cais do Sodre not only has a fishy smell, but is also Lisbon, Portugal 1200 decorated with fishing nets and rods. It specializes in tinned fish, served as snacks to soak up the alcohol. Monday-Friday 8 pm-2 am, Saturday Phone: 21-346-7203 8 pm-4 am. Rua Nova do Carvalho 44, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-7203. http://www.solepesca.com http://www.solepesca.com.

Taberna Moderna Rua dos Bacalheiros 18-A Gin lovers will be pleased to know about this bar and restaurant, which Lisbon, Portugal 1100-070 has more than 70 types of gin. It also serves Iberian-style food in a cheerful, bright space with mismatched chairs and quirky decorative Phone: 21-886-5039 touches. Tuesday-Saturday 1-3:30 pm and 6 pm-2 am. Rua dos http://www.tabernamoderna.com Bacalheiros 18-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-886-5039. http://www.tabernamoderna.com.

Lux Fragil Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazem A A joint venture between actor John Malkovich and one of Lisbon's best- Lisbon, Portugal 1950-376 known nightclub entrepreneurs, this is probably the trendiest place in town—the place to see and be seen. It is set in an old warehouse with a Phone: 21-882-0890 great terrace facing the river, with sweeping views over Lisbon. Music http://www.luxfragil.com leans to techno, house, and drum and bass. There are usually crowds outside waiting to get in. Thursday-Saturday 11 pm-6 am. Officially, the cover charge is 15 euros. In reality, it depends on the door attendant's mood and your attire. It's usually around 12 euros. Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazem A (near Santa Apolonia train station), Lisbon. Phone 21-882-0890. http://www.luxfragil.com.

Ministerium Club Ala Nascente, Terreiro do Paco The former Ministry of Finance offices in Terreiro do Paco have been Lisbon, Portugal 1100-038 transformed into one of Lisbon's newest nightclubs. The original vaulted ceilings and odd antiquities help to blend traditional with ultramodern. Phone: 21-888-8454 Young, beautiful people are drawn there to dance by a mix of resident http://www.ministerium.pt and guest DJs playing house and techno music. Saturday 11 pm-6 am. Cover is usually 12 euros. Ala Nascente, Terreiro do Paco, Lisbon. Phone 21-888-8454. http://www.ministerium.pt.

Trumps Rua da Imprensa Nacional 104-B This is the capital of the city's gay and lesbian scene. It's located in the Lisbon, Portugal 1250-127 Principe Real neighborhood, which is home to most of the gay bars in town, just a short walk from the Bairro Alto district. The dance floor is Phone: 96-316-0602 immense, and its decorations seem to change all the time. Tuesday- http://www.trumps.pt Sunday from 11 pm. Cover varies. Rua da Imprensa Nacional 104-B, Lisbon. Phone 96-316-0602. http://www.trumps.pt.

Urban Beach Cais da Vicondessa, Rua da Cintura do Porto With beds on the sand and a stunning view over the River Tagus, this do Lisboa trendy bar and nightclub pulls in the crowds with house, R&B and commercial music. It's not essential to dress up but you won't be alone if Lisbon, Portugal 1200-109 you do, as this place attracts footballers and their groupies among Phone: 21-395-7101 others. There's also a sushi restaurant and a meat restaurant on-site. http://www.grupo-k.pt Wednesday-Saturday 6 pm-4 am. Cais da Vicondessa, Rua da Cintura do Porto do Lisboa, Lisbon. Phone 21-395-7101. http://www.grupo-k.pt.

Bacalhoeiro Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 125 With an eclectic lineup of live music ranging from jazz to flamenco, this Lisbon, Portugal 1100-068 cultural and arts collaborative has something happening every day (check the website for the agenda). There's a bar serving drinks, snacks http://bacalhoeiro.blogspot.pt and a dish of the day. Some events are free, others have a cover charge for nonmembers. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 4 pm-2 am, Friday and Saturday 4 pm-4 am. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 125 (second floor), Lisbon. http://bacalhoeiro.blogspot.pt.

Cafe Luso Travessa da Queimada 10 One of Lisbon's oldest fado houses, Cafe Luso is decorated with Lisbon, Portugal 1200-365 pictures of the genre's icons. Now a new generation of fado singers pours out fresh anguish. Daily 7:30 pm-2 am. Free for diners or with a Phone: 21-342-2281 minimum consumption of 25 euros. Travessa da Queimada 10, Lisbon. http://www.cafeluso.pt Phone 21-342-2281. http://www.cafeluso.pt. Clube de Fado Rua Sao Joao da Praca 86-94 At the Clube de Fado, music is played beside ancient stone arches, a Moorish well and walls hung with guitars and pictures. Good, traditional Lisbon, Portugal 1100-521 food is served as fadistas sing their songs of saudade. In the Phone: 21-885-2704 candlelight, a glass of fruity Portuguese tinto in hand, you either lose http://www.clube-de-fado.com yourself in emotion or allow the performers' skill and power to bewitch you. Daily 8 pm-2 am. Rua Sao Joao da Praca 86-94, Alfama, Lisbon. Phone 21-885-2704. http://www.clube-de-fado.com.

Music Box Travessa do Carvalho 15 Once a rather seedy dive, Music Box is now probably the best nightclub Lisbon, Portugal 1200-292 in Cais do Sodre. With a full program of live bands and renowned DJs, there's usually a queue to get in but it's worth the wait. Wednesday- Phone: 21-343-0107 Saturday, times vary. Travessa do Carvalho 15 (the entrance is under https://musicboxlisboa.com/mb the arch), Lisbon. Phone 21-343-0107. https://musicboxlisboa.com/mb.

Ritz Clube Rua da Gloria 57 Just off Avenida Liberdade, this well-established venue has a strong program of live concerts—mainly rock music, but other genres are Lisbon, Portugal 1250-115 featured from time to time. It also presents theater, poetry slams and Phone: 21-241-7604 discos. Entrance price varies according to event. Sunday-Wednesday http://www.ritzclube.com 10 pm-4 am, Thursday-Saturday 10 pm-6 am. Rua da Gloria 57, Lisbon. Phone 21-241-7604. http://www.ritzclube.com.

Senhor Vinho Rua do Meio a Lapa 18 Even though this fado house is probably the most expensive of them all Lisbon, Portugal 1200-723 and in an out-of-the-way location, Senhor Vinho ("Mr. Wine") is always filled with people hoping to catch some of the best Portuguese singers Phone: 21-395-5830 performing traditional fados. It is owned by renowned fado singer Maria https://www.facebook.com/sr.vinho.fado da Fe, who still performs occasionally. Make sure you have a reservation and allow some time to enjoy dinner. Daily 7:30 pm-2 am. Rua do Meio a Lapa 18, Lapa, Lisbon. Phone 21-395-5830. https://www.facebook.com/sr.vinho.fado.

Performing Arts

The major arts companies in Lisbon are state-funded and administered through the Ministry of Culture. Productions are usually of high quality, and tickets are readily available. Lisbon's premier performing-arts venue is the Centro Cultural de Belem, on Praca do Imperio. The Pavilhao Atlantico at Parque das Nacoes also hosts touring music and dance groups.

If you're in the mood for a movie, keep in mind that films in Portugal are subtitled (the same is true of TV programs). If you go to any movie theater in town, you'll hear it in its original language—unless it's a children's film.

Dance

Companhia Nacional de Bailado Teatro Camoes, Passeio do Neptuno, Parque The National Ballet Company is one of the best dance groups in the das Nacoes country, with a classical and contemporary repertoire. Dates and times vary depending on the program. Tickets can be purchased online or on- Lisbon, Portugal 1990-193 site at the Teatro Camoes or at the Teatro Nacional de Sao Carlos. Phone: 21-892-3470 Teatro Camoes, Passeio do Neptuno, Parque das Nacoes, Lisbon. http://www.cnb.pt Phone 21-892-3470. http://www.cnb.pt.

Fundacao Calouste Gulbenkian Ave. de Berna 45-A The foundation supports an orchestra and choir. No matter who is Lisbon, Portugal 1067-001 performing, the auditorium fills up pretty quickly, because tickets are relatively inexpensive. Performances take place in the foundation's own Phone: 21-782-3030 facility on Avenida de Berna. The season runs October-June. Ave. de https://gulbenkian.pt Berna 45-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-782-3030. https://gulbenkian.pt.

Orquestra Metropolitana de Lisboa Travessa da Gale 36 This orchestra performs works by Portuguese masters, among other composers. It does not have a fixed concert hall—it can be performing Lisbon, Portugal 1349-028 anywhere in the country at any given time. Travessa da Gale 36, Phone: 21-361-7320 Lisbon. Phone 21-361-7320. http://www.metropolitana.pt. http://www.metropolitana.pt

Portuguese Symphony Orchestra Rua Serpa Pinto 9 Performs regularly at the Sao Carlos Opera House. Rua Serpa Pinto 9, Lisbon, Portugal 1200-442 Lisbon. Phone 213-253-000. http://www.orquestrasinfonicaportuguesa.pt. Phone: 213-253-000 http://www.orquestrasinfonicaportuguesa.pt

Teatro Nacional de Sao Carlos Rua Serpa Pinto 9 The only professional opera company in the country is headquartered in Lisbon, Portugal 1200-442 the Sao Carlos Theater—a beautiful venue modeled after Milan's famous La Scala opera house. Dates and times of performances vary. Phone: 21-325-3000 Rua Serpa Pinto 9, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-325-3000. http://tnsc.pt. http://tnsc.pt

A Barraca Cinearte, Largo de Santos 2 What can you expect from a theater company that decides to set up its Lisbon, Portugal 1200-808 own bar? A Barraca (which is also the name of the theater) is a crazy place, with everything from live poetry to tango lessons—the added Phone: 21-396-5360 bonus is that patrons can mingle with the actors after performances. It https://www.facebook.com/barabarraca has one of the prettiest views of the river, too. Tuesday-Saturday from 7 pm, Sunday from 4 pm. Cinearte, Largo de Santos 2 (at Avenida 24 de Julho), Lisbon. Phone 21-396-5360. https://www.facebook.com/barabarraca.

Teatro da Cornucopia Rua Tenente Raul Cascais 1-A As one of the best independent theater companies in the city, this group produces works by a diverse group of playwrights. The season runs Lisbon, Portugal 1250-268 year-round. Thursday-Saturday 3-9:30 pm. Tickets cost 6.50 euros. Rua Phone: 21-396-1515 Tenente Raul Cascais 1-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-396-1515. http://www.teatro-cornucopia.pt http://www.teatro-cornucopia.pt.

Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II Praca D. Pedro V, Rossio The national theater company resides in what was once the Palace of the Inquisition, in Rossio Square. It features the best Portuguese actors, Lisbon, Portugal 1100-201 as well as international talent. Season runs year-round. Tickets cost 8 Phone: 21-325-0800 euros-45 euros. Praca D. Pedro V, Rossio, Lisbon. Phone 21-325-0800. http://www.tndm.pt http://www.tndm.pt.

ABEP-Agencia De Bilhetes Para Espectaculos Publicos Praca do Restaurador The first ticket broker in Lisbon is still a rather small operation. It usually has tickets for several shows and sometimes for sporting events. You Lisbon, Portugal 1250-188 can make a ticket reservation, but you must do it in person. Praca do Phone: 21-342-5360 Restaurador (near the Restauradores metro stop), Lisbon. Phone 21- http://portalnacional.com.pt/empresa/abep- 342-5360. http://portalnacional.com.pt/empresa/abep-agencia-bilhetes- agencia-bilhetes-para-espectaculos-publicos- para-espectaculos-publicos-lda-412558. lda-412558

FNAC Rua Garrett As the best ticket broker in Lisbon, this group can arrange tickets for most shows. You'll find it inside the Armazens do Chiado shopping mall. Lisbon, Portugal 1200-309 You can also buy tickets through the website. Daily 9 am-11 pm. Rua Phone: 760-309-330 Garrett, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 760-309-330. http://www.fnac.pt. http://www.fnac.pt

Culturgest Rua Arco do Cego, Piso 1, Campo Pequeno This cultural venue is run by one of Portugal's major banks and has a Lisbon, Portugal 1000-300 full program of art exhibitions, theater, dance and workshops. It's well worth checking its agenda to see what's on offer during your visit. Phone: 21-790-5155 Monday and Wednesday-Friday 11 am-7 pm; Saturday and Sunday 2-8 http://www.culturgest.pt pm. Ticket office for shows open Monday-Friday 2-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 2-8 pm or until the show starts on the day of an event. Rua Arco do Cego, Piso 1, Campo Pequeno, Lisbon. Phone 21-790-5155. http://www.culturgest.pt.

Spectator Sports

Many Portuguese people are devoted to soccer. They play it, tend to know lots about it and are intensely loyal to their teams. Going to a stadium is a Sunday favorite for many families. No other sport even comes close in popularity. There are three national daily sports newspapers covering all sports, with most pages are dedicated to soccer. Bullfights

Bullfights Centro Comercial do Campo Pequeno The bulls aren't killed, but it's still a bloody battle. Fights take place most Lisbon, Portugal Thursdays at 8 pm April-August at Praca de Touros do Campo Pequeno. The stadium itself is worth a visit even on days when nothing Phone: 21-793-2442 is happening there: Constructed in 1890 in the Moorish style, it is a unique structure not far from the Baixa. Centro Comercial do Campo Pequeno, Lisbon. Phone 21-793-2442.

Sporting Clube de Portugal Rua Professor Fernando da Fonseca This club is the big rival of . Its stadium, the Jose Stadium, was designed by one of the country's top architects, Tomas Lisbon, Portugal 1501-806 Taveira. Rua Professor Fernando da Fonseca, Lisbon. Phone 707-204- Phone: 707-204-444 444. http://www.sporting.pt. http://www.sporting.pt

Sport Lisboa e Benfica Ave. General Norton de Matos Porta 18 One of the major clubs in Portugal, this is the one with the most fans. Lisbon, Portugal 1500-313 The Benfica stadium is the largest in the city, with matches every week. Ave. General Norton de Matos Porta 18, Benfica, Lisbon. Phone 707- Phone: 707-200-100 200-100. http://www.slbenfica.pt. http://www.slbenfica.pt

Shopping

Good shopping areas, besides the huge malls, are Chiado and Rua Augusta, with its many shoe shops; Avenida da Liberdade, with designer brands at top prices; and Bairro Alto for its trendy, alternative boutiques.

If you're looking for antiques, head for Rua D. Pedro V, near Bairro Alto, and Rua de Sao Bento, between Rato and the National Assembly.

Things to buy include cheese, port, lace, linen, cotton and embroidery, azulejos (decorative tiles) and other ceramics, and filigrana (filigree—exquisite, finely worked gold).

Be aware that you may ask about discounts, but haggling over prices in shops usually won't get you very far. If you have a Lisbon Card or a green Viva Viagem public transport ticket, it's worth asking if it entitles you to a discount.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm. Most shops remain open during lunch. Large shopping malls are open daily 9 am-midnight.

Antique Stores

Cavalo de Pau Rua de Sao Bento 164 Opposite the Parliament buildings, this lovely shop sells vintage and Lisbon, Portugal 1200-821 stylish furniture and bric-a-brac from Portugal and farther flung parts of the world, as well as gourmet jams, sweets and biscuits. You could Phone: 21-396-6605 spend a long time (and a fair amount of money) there. Rua de Sao http://www.cavalodepau.pt Bento 164, Lisbon. Phone 21-396-6605. http://www.cavalodepau.pt.

Galeria da Arcada Rua Dom Pedro V 49 This shop in Principe Real is a good bet for Portuguese sacred art, as Lisbon, Portugal 1250-092 well as a few Flemish and Spanish pieces. It will ship worldwide. Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-1 pm and 3-7 pm. Rua Dom Pedro V 49, Phone: 21-346-8518 Lisbon. Phone 21-346-8518. https://www.galeriadaarcada.com. https://www.galeriadaarcada.com

Luis Lopes Antiguidades Rua de Sao Bento 266-270 This shop sells fine antiques. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm. Rua de Sao Bento 266-270, Lisbon. Phone 21-397-7335. Lisbon, Portugal 1200-821 http://luis_lopes.blogs.sapo.pt. Phone: 21-397-7335 http://luis_lopes.blogs.sapo.pt

Bertrand Rua Garrett 73-75 Opened in 1732, this is Lisbon's oldest bookstore. Its stock includes Lisbon, Portugal 1200 - 203 English-language books and international periodicals. Monday-Saturday 9 am-10 pm, Sunday 11 am-8 pm. Rua Garrett 73-75, Lisbon. Phone Phone: 21-347-6122 21-347-6122. http://www.bertrand.pt. http://www.bertrand.pt

Fabula Urbis Rua de Augusto Rosa 27 Located halfway between the city's cathedral and the castle, this shop is a mandatory stop for those who want to learn more about Lisbon. Its Lisbon, Portugal 1100-058 specialty is books about the city, published in several languages. Daily Phone: 21-888-5032 10 am-8 pm. Rua de Augusto Rosa 27, Lisbon. Phone 21-888-5032. http://www.fabula-urbis.pt http://www.fabula-urbis.pt.

FNAC Rua do Carmo This French chain sells a wide selection of Portuguese and international books (many in English), as well as CDs, audiovisual equipment and Lisbon, Portugal tickets to events. It also has a cafe, shows films and hosts exhibitions Phone: 21-322-1800 and live music. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Rua do Carmo, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-322-1800. http://www.fnac.pt. http://www.fnac.pt

El Corte Ingles Ave. Antonio Augusto de Aguiar 31 The only true department store in Lisbon, this branch of the Spanish chain is perhaps the only store in Lisbon where you can buy anything Lisbon, Portugal 1069-413 and everything—from groceries and gourmet foods to toys, toasters, Phone: 21-371-1700 automotive supplies and evening gowns—as well as grab dinner and http://www.elcorteingles.pt attend a movie. Monday-Thursday 10 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-11:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-8 pm. Ave. Antonio Augusto de Aguiar 31 (at the San Sebastiao metro stop-you can go directly from the metro into the store), Lisbon. Phone 21-371-1700. http://www.elcorteingles.pt.

Galeria 111 Campo Grande 113 Since 1964 this gallery has presented the top names of contemporary Lisbon, Portugal 1700-089 Portuguese art. It also hosts temporary exhibitions of international artists. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. Campo Grande 113, Lisbon. Phone: 21-797-7418 Phone 21-797-7418. http://www.111.pt. http://www.111.pt

ZDB-Ze dos Bois Rua da Barroca No. 59 This alternative-art gallery supports multidisciplinary art, particularly by young, up-and-coming Portuguese artists. Wednesday-Friday 6-11 pm, Lisbon, Portugal 1200-049 Saturday 3-11 pm; hours vary depending on the events taking place at Phone: 21-343-0205 the gallery. Rua da Barroca No. 59, Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-343- http://www.zedosbois.org 0205. http://www.zedosbois.org.

Campo de Market Rua Coelho da Rocha Located in the neighborhood and reachable by Tram 28 from downtown, this food market has a variety of Lisbon, Portugal 1350-075 Mediterranean sights, sounds and smells. There you will find all kinds of Phone: 21-396-2272 fresh fruit such as oranges, avocados and olives, as well as seafood https://www.mercadodecampodeourique.com and snails. Monday-Saturday 7 am-2 pm. Rua Coelho da Rocha (take trams 25 and 28), Lisbon. Phone 21-396-2272. https://www.mercadodecampodeourique.com.

Feira da Ladra (Thieves Market) Campo (Pateo Sao Vincente) Lisbon's large, crowded flea market has every conceivable article, new or secondhand, you could ever want. However, as with any flea market, Lisbon, Portugal the origin of some of the items for sale may be questionable. Be sure to bargain. Friday and Saturday 9 am-6 pm. Campo Santa Clara (Pateo Sao Vincente), Lisbon.

Mercado Fusao Praca Martim Moniz Martim Moniz square celebrates the cultural diversity represented within the neighborhood with a fusion market every weekend. As well as world Lisbon, Portugal food from the kiosks, you can buy clothes, groceries and other assorted Phone: 92-794-3671 products, and enjoy concerts and DJs. Saturday and Sunday 11 am-10 https://www.facebook.com/MercadoFusao pm. Praca Martim Moniz, Lisbon. Phone 92-794-3671. https://www.facebook.com/MercadoFusao.

Armazens do Chiado Rua do Carmo 2 Lisbon's most beautiful shopping center, with six floors. The facade has Lisbon, Portugal been preserved from the devastating fire that engulfed it in 1988. Popular with young people, it has a great view from its food court on the Phone: 21-321-0600 top floor. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Rua do Carmo 2, Lisbon. Phone 21-321- http://www.armazensdochiado.com 0600. http://www.armazensdochiado.com.

Centro Comercial Colombo Avenida Lusiada This is one of the biggest shopping centers on the entire Iberian Peninsula, with more than 400 shops, a multiplex cinema and a large Lisbon, Portugal 1500-392 entertainment area. Daily 9 am-midnight. Avenida Lusiada, Benfica, Phone: 21-711-3600 Lisbon. Phone 21-711-3600. http://www.colombo.pt. http://www.colombo.pt

Centro Comercial das Amoeiras Avenida Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco It is a city unto itself, with streets and more than 300 shops, a multiplex cinema, and 50 restaurants and cafes. It even has a church. Daily 10 Lisbon, Portugal 1070-103 am-11 pm. Avenida Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco, Lisbon. Phone 21- Phone: 21-381-0200 381-0200. http://www.amoreiras.com. http://www.amoreiras.com

Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama Ave. Dom Joao II 40, Parque das Nacoes The design of this mall is interesting: It's near the river, so everything at Lisbon, Portugal 1990-094 the mall was made to remind you of a ship—deck chairs, hatches and other nautical details. The restrooms, especially the ladies', are worth a Phone: 21-893-0601 visit. The mall is always crowded. Daily 9 am-midnight. Ave. Dom Joao II http://www.centrovascodagama.pt 40, Parque das Nacoes, Lisbon. Phone 21-893-0601. http://www.centrovascodagama.pt.

A Carioca Rua da Misericordia 9 Smack in the middle of Chiado, this is the ultimate heaven for the caffeine-addicted. The aromatic shop stocks a wide variety of coffee Lisbon, Portugal 1200-273 from all over the world; if you're lucky, some of the rare beans of the Phone: 21-342-0377 Arabic Sao Tome coffee will be in stock. If you prefer tea, treat yourself http://acarioca.pai.pt to the Gorreana green tea picked on the Azores Islands. Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Rua da Misericordia 9, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-0377. http://acarioca.pai.pt.

A Outra Face da Lua Rua da Assuncao 22 This place sells secondhand clothes and art. It's also a tea room. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Rua da Assuncao 22, Lisbon. Phone 21- Lisbon, Portugal 1100-044 886-3430. https://www.facebook.com/aoutrafacedalua. Phone: 21-886-3430 https://www.facebook.com/aoutrafacedalua

A Vida Portuguesa Rua Anchieta 11 For everything Portuguese from the past and present, head to this shop filled with fascinating pieces that make great gifts. From soaps to toys, Lisbon, Portugal 1200-023 everything comes wrapped in beautiful retro packaging. Monday- Phone: 21-346-5073 Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-8 pm. Rua Anchieta 11, Lisbon. http://www.avidaportuguesa.com Phone 21-346-5073. http://www.avidaportuguesa.com.

Bairro Arte Rua Paiva de Andrada 2 This shop is chock-full of arty, trendy gifts. Some items, such as marble coasters with Lisbon street signs, serve well as souvenirs. It has Lisbon, Portugal 1300-051 branches in Cascais, Bairro Alto and Chiado and will ship items. Daily 9 Phone: 91-057-1594 am-midnight (closes at 8 pm in January and February). Rua Paiva de http://www.bairroarte.com Andrada 2, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 91-057-1594. http://www.bairroarte.com.

Conservaria de Lisboa Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 34 Open since 1930, the shelves of this tiny shop in the Baixa are piled with colorful tins of fish and seafood. If you buy any, they will be wrapped in Lisbon, Portugal 1100-071 paper for you. You can preserve your visit in history by commenting in Phone: 21-886-4009 the guest book. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros http://www.conserveiradelisboa.pt 34, Lisbon. Phone 21-886-4009. http://www.conserveiradelisboa.pt.

DeliDelux Avenida Infante D, Henrique Armazem B Loja 8 A trendy cafe and gourmet store with a view over the Tagus River stocked with the best Portuguese (and non-Portuguese) food plus an Lisbon, Portugal excellent collection of wines. The smoked hams of the charcuteria are a Phone: 21-886-2070 treat for gourmets. Daily 10 am-10 pm in winter, 10 am-midnight in http://www.delidelux.pt summer. Avenida Infante D, Henrique Armazem B Loja 8, Lisbon. Phone 21-886-2070. http://www.delidelux.pt.

Fabrica Sant'anna Rua de Alecrim 95, Chiado Probably the best manufacturer of azulejos, in business since 1741. You Lisbon, Portugal 1200-015 can have the tile panels custom made, and if you fear for your baggage allowance, have them shipped. Your kitchen, living room or bath will Phone: 21-342-2537 never look the same again. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm. Rua de http://www.santanna.com.pt Alecrim 95, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-2537. http://www.santanna.com.pt.

GN Cellar Rua da Conceicao 20-26 A classy booze shop in the Baixa that specializes in spirits, as well as Portuguese and Madeira wines and port. Daily 10 am-9 pm. Rua da Lisbon, Portugal 1100-227 Conceicao 20-26, Lisbon. Phone 21-885-2395. Phone: 21-885-2395 http://www.garrafeiranacional.com. http://www.garrafeiranacional.com

Luvaria Ulisses Rua do Carmo 87-A, Chiado Pay close attention or you will walk right by this tiny, old-fashioned store, Lisbon, Portugal 1200-093 which sells only gloves. You can have your own pair custom made. If money is no object, choose the ones made of peccary leather. Only one Phone: 21-342-0295 customer at a time fits into Portugal's smallest store, and the ceremony http://www.luvariaulisses.com to try on the gloves is worth the visit. Your hand will never be treated with more respect, while your elbow rests upon a little red cushion on the counter. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. Rua do Carmo 87-A, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-0295. http://www.luvariaulisses.com.

Madeira House Rua Augusta 133 If you like beautiful handmade embroidery and can't make it to the Atlantic island of Madeira, this shop should be a priority. It sells Madeira Lisbon, Portugal lace at its finest: tablecloths, placemats and napkin sets. The most Phone: 21-343-1454 expensive works can cost thousands of euros. Monday-Friday 9:30 am- http://www.madeira-house.com 8 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-1:30 pm and 3-8 pm. Rua Augusta 133, Baixa, Lisbon. Phone 21-343-1454. http://www.madeira-house.com.

Ouriversaria Alianca Rua Garret 50 This may be one of the most beautifully decorated jewelry shops you will Lisbon, Portugal ever come across, still showing off all its splendor from the early 20th century. This is the place to look for vintage art-deco silver, beautiful Phone: 21-342-3419 hairbrushes and hand mirrors, all designed in Portugal. Monday- http://ourivesaria-alianca.pai.pt Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday noon-8 pm. Rua Garret 50, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-3419. http://ourivesaria-alianca.pai.pt.

Queijaria Nacional Rua da Conceicao 8 For the best of Portuguese cheeses, try this little shop in the Baixa. It can vacuum pack your purchases so you can take them home with you. Lisbon, Portugal 1100-154 Daily 10 am-8 pm. Rua da Conceicao 8, Lisbon. Phone 91-208-2450. Phone: 91-208-2450 https://www.facebook.com/queijaria-nacional-399072020160527. https://www.facebook.com/queijaria-nacional- 399072020160527

Santos Oficios Rua da Madalena 87 It is one of the best souvenir shops in Lisbon, with regional handicrafts such as ceramics, figurines and weavings of high quality. Monday- Lisbon, Portugal 1100-319 Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Rua da Madalena 87 (opposite Madalena Phone: 21-887-2031 Church), Baixa, Lisbon. Phone 21-887-2031. http://www.santosoficios- http://www.santosoficios-artesanato.pt artesanato.pt.

Teresa Alecrim Rua Nova Almada 76 This is the place to go for handmade Portuguese linens and embroidered goods. The quality is high, and the prices are fair. It's not a Lisbon, Portugal tourist trap—locals shop there as well. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Phone: 21-342-1831 Saturday 10 am-1:30 pm. Rua Nova Almada 76, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone http://www.teresaalecrim.com 21-342-1831. http://www.teresaalecrim.com.

Vista Alegre Largo do Chiado 20-23 This Portuguese porcelain manufacturer has achieved international acclaim. It has many stores throughout the city; the most central location Lisbon, Portugal is in Chiado. Vista Alegre stores also stock top-quality Atlantis crystal. Phone: 21-346-1401 Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Largo do Chiado 20-23, Chiado, Lisbon. http://www.vistaalegre.com Phone 21-346-1401. http://www.vistaalegre.com.

Itinerary

Day Trips

To Sintra. This idyllic town is located 17 mi/28 km west of Lisbon. Lord Byron, the 19th-century English romantic poet, claimed Sintra was the earthly paradise he longed to live in. Wonderful villas, hidden by the lush vegetation that thrives in this microclimate, are concentrated around the small town.

In the center of Sintra you'll find the Palacio Nacional de Sintra, a large castle belonging to the Portuguese royal family. And on the top of the hill, with a spectacular view of the countryside, the Palacio da Pena looks like the setting of a fairy tale. Take bus 434 from behind the train station. http://pnsintra.imc- ip.pt.

Trains for Sintra depart from the Rossio train station in downtown Lisbon, and the ride takes 40 minutes. http://www.cm-sintra.pt.

To Mafra and Ericeira. Mafra, about 25 mi/40 km northwest of Lisbon, is home to one the most impressive royal palaces in Portugal. Commissioned by King Dom Joao V to celebrate the birth of his first son in 1717, the baroque building combines a palace, monastery and basilica. Its size is striking—the structure that was destined to house 420 monks covers more than 25 acres/10 hectares.

The king spared no expense in the construction and decoration of the palace's 880 halls and rooms, 5,200 doorways and 2,500 windows. Its twin towers contain one of the world's largest assemblages of bells. Occasionally, on weekends, there are bell concerts at the palace. Be sure to visit the beautiful library, which holds nearly 40,000 books dating from the 15th to the 18th centuries. The former royal hunting grounds, now a wildlife park, are also available to wander through. If time permits, move on to Ericeira, an old but well-preserved fishing village where you can relax by the sea, take a swim at one of the many beaches and enjoy a meal of incomparably fresh fish. Buses to Mafra and Ericeira leave from Campo Grande bus terminal.

To Arrabida Natural Park. This hilly national park stretches along the Atlantic coast between Setubal and Sesimbra. A serpentine twists through it, offering fantastic views of the sea. The park is especially pretty in the spring, when wildflowers color the limestone cliffs. The tourist office in Setubal has maps for hiking in the park.

Buses to Arrabida leave from Marques Pombal (south of Parque Eduardo VII), November-March. The bus, run by Citirama, also stops at Sesimbra Castle, Azeitao (another charming town worth visiting) and the park's headquarters.

To Obidos. This pretty medieval town was famously given to Queen Isabel by King Dinis as a wedding present in 1282. Even today, the cobbled streets and whitewashed houses retain their charm, and old churches and produce stands that have been converted into bookstores add to the whimsy. Regular themed festivals, such as the annual chocolate festival, are held on the castle grounds. http://www.obidos.pt.

Rapida Verde buses to Obidos leave from Lisbon's Campo Grande terminal almost every hour and take just more than an hour. http://www.rodotejo.pt/pdf/horario_verde.pdf.

To Evora. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a small museum-city with a history that dates back to Roman times. Take a day to walk the narrow streets and visit monuments of architecture from various eras. Don't miss the Capela dos Ossos, an ossuary built of human bones.

Trains to Evora leave from station, departing at 8:10 am for arrival at 10:07 am. The train is modern and comfortable, and the scenery makes for a memorable trip.

Bike Iberia Largo Corpo Santo 5 Although Lisbon is a hilly city and not especially bike-friendly, a bike tour Lisbon, Portugal 1200-129 can still be a good orientation to the city and its sights. Bike Iberia will take you around the large mansions of Restelo and the more traditional Phone: 21-347-0347 Portuguese . Trips also include a stop at Monsanto Park, known http://www.bikeiberia.com aptly as "pulmao de Lisboa" (Lisbon's lungs). Largo Corpo Santo 5, Baixa, Lisbon. Phone 21-347-0347 96-963-0369 or 96-242-3455. http://www.bikeiberia.com.

Carris Tours Rua 1 de Maio 101 The same company that operates all of Lisbon's public buses and trams Lisbon, Portugal 1300-472 offers special tour routes through central Lisbon and Belem. There are four routes: two by open-air double-decker bus with hop-on, hop-off Phone: 21-361-3087 service and two by tram. All routes depart from the Praca do Comercio. http://www.yellowbustours.com English-speaking guides and audioguides are available. 15 euros adults for the bus; 18 euros adults for the tram. Rua 1 de Maio 101, Lisbon. Phone 21-361-3087. http://www.yellowbustours.com.

Cityrama Ave. Joao XXI 78 Stops on the standard bus tours include Sintra, Cascais and Estoril. Lisbon, Portugal 1000-304 Pickup can be organized from a number of hotels. Tour prices vary. Ave. Joao XXI 78, Lisbon. Phone 21-319-1090 or 21-319-1091. Phone: 21-319-1090 http://www.cityrama.pt. http://www.cityrama.pt

Eco Tours Portugal Rua Joaq. Antonio Aguiar 66 From a four-hour walking tour of Lisbon to 11 days covering the best of Portugal, this group offers a series of itineraries and bespoke tours to Lisbon, Portugal 1070-153 suit most needs. The guides work hard at minimizing the impact of the Phone: 22-010-8096 operation in the areas they visit and also use part of the proceeds to http://www.portugaltours.com.pt support less privileged children in those areas. Rua Joaq. Antonio Aguiar 66, Lisbon. Phone 22-010-8096. http://www.portugaltours.com.pt.

Lisbon Walks Rua dos Remedios 84 To join one of the standard themed walks around the city led by English- speaking tour guides, all you need to do is show up at the meeting point Lisbon, Portugal 1100-449 in Praca do Comercio in time to start walking at either 10:30 am or 2:30 Phone: 21-886-1840 pm. Choose from a range of two- to three-hour walks to suit your http://www.lisbonwalker.com interests, such as Myths and Legends or Lisbon, City of Spies—check which tours run on which days. Alternatively, you can make arrangements for special tours, such as the Literary Tour or the African Presence in Lisbon Tour. Whatever you do, make sure you're wearing comfortable shoes. 15 euros adults. Rua dos Remedios 84, Lisbon. Phone 21-886-1840. http://www.lisbonwalker.com.

We Hate Tourism Tours Rua Silva 27 A young, irreverent and creative team of guides show you Lisbon's hidden gems and give insight into local life in a fun, informal Lisbon, Portugal 1200-201 environment. Its Jeeps may not be luxurious, but the guides' enthusiasm Phone: 91-377-6598 and personalities more than make up for that. There is even a special tour aimed at cruise-ship passengers. Monday and Wednesday-Sunday http://www.wehatetourismtours.com 11 am-7 pm. Prices vary. Rua Silva 27, Lisbon. Phone 91-377-6598. http://www.wehatetourismtours.com.

With so much to do, you will have to be selective. The following itinerary includes six days of activities that can be shuffled or selected from, depending on time and interests. It assumes you will use public transit and taxis. Wear comfortable walking shoes.

Day 1—You may want to start by purchasing a Lisbon Card. It will give you free use of public transportation, discounts and free admission to certain museums and monuments. Start your day with a stroll downtown. Enjoy walking down Avenida da Liberdade, on the decorated cobblestoned pavement among trees, and designer shops. It will take you to , which celebrates the liberation of the nation in 1640 after 60 years of Spanish rule. Continue to Rossio Square, the liveliest square in the city, with two baroque fountains and art-deco cafes. You might want to go for lunch at Cafe Royale then take elevator Santa Justa up for a coffee. Come back down and walk the busy pedestrian street, lined with shops and cafes, which opens into Comercio Square through the triumphal arch (you can access the terrace at the top of the arch which offers a magnificent view of downtown). The Comercio Square, also known as Terreiro do Paco, was the site of the royal family palace until it was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. Look for the Cafe Martinho da Arcada, the oldest cafe in town. Opened in 1782, it has an image of the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa painted on the wall.

Day 2—Take the bus to Belem and take a guided tour to Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. Afterwards enjoy the deliciously famous pasteis de Belem. You might decide to visit the garden of tropical plants, Jardim Botanico Tropical, or view works by Picasso, Bacon, Warhol and others at the Museu Berardo. Take a walk by the river and visit the Padrao dos Descobrimentos and the Torre de Belem.

Day 3—Take the train to Sintra. Stroll through the cobblestoned streets of this historical town and enjoy the romantic landscape that influenced developments throughout Europe. Places to visit are the Palacio Nacional, where guided tours are a good option, the Palacio da Pena, the Convento dos Capuchos and the Moorish Castle.

Day 4—Take the metro to visit the zoo then head off to the Parque das Nacoes to enjoy the multiple buildings originally built for the 1998 World Exposition. Visit the Oceanario, the Pavilhao do Conhecimento and enjoy the contemporary architecture of the buildings of the Parque. Visit the Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama, with its beautiful tiled walls and floors. The food court has a wide array of options, from Portuguese-style restaurants to fast food. Even the restrooms were made with imaginative decor.

Day 5—Go back in time at the Castelo de Sao Jorge with its magnificent views over the town. Visit the Archaeological Museum, have lunch at a nearby cafe, then hop on the bus to the Se Cathedral de Lisboa. If you have time, squeeze in a visit to the Museu do Fado. Head to the historical Bairro Alto by the river and enjoy a beautiful sunset over the ocean from one of the lookouts. Dine in a fado restaurant for a memorable evening.

Day 6—Take the train from Cais do Sodre station and enjoy a ride along the shore to Cascais. Once a fishing village, it became a popular resort together with Estoril. Go to the beach or stroll along pedestrian streets flanked by shops and cafes. Visit the Museum of the Sea, with paintings showing the history of Cascais. Alternatively, you could go to the Museum Castro Guimaraes. Take the train back to Cais do Sodre, where you can enjoy another exciting evening listening to a variety of music and hopping between the bars and esplanades.

Lisbon has a lot to do and see. Much of it can be seen on foot, but it is also easy to use public transportation as needed, including trams, buses and historic elevators. Plan A

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Start at the Praca Marques de Pombal, a central square in Lisbon. Take the bus or the tram, or walk down Avenida da Liberdade. Continue through Restauradores Square to Praca do Rossio. There you can find cafes where you might stop and have a beverage. Go to the Santa Justa Elevator and take in the view from the top and get a light snack. Hop on a bus or tram and head to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos for a guided tour. Look for the Casa dos Pasteis de Belem—the shop is incredible and the pastries will have you hooked. Walk to the Padra dos Descobrimentos and have a stroll along the river to the Torre de Belem. Take the tram to Bairro Alto and enjoy dinner at one of the fado restaurants.

Plan B

Castelo de Sao Jorge

Start at the Praca do Comercio, the beautiful square by the river. Go through the Arco de Triunfo to enter Rua Augusta. An elevator there can take you to the balcony on top of the arch, from where you can enjoy an incredible 360-degree view over Lisbon. Walk the Rua Augusta, a lively shopping street where you can enjoy trendy shops and esplanades. Don't stop until you reach the Praca do Rossio, another iconic square of Lisbon. Walk to the nearby elevator of Santa Justa: At the top you can enjoy a relaxing view and have a meal. Hop on the bus to St. Jorge Castle and you might decide to join a guided tour to see the archaeologic site. Visit the Se Cathedral afterward and then take the bus to Cais do Sodre for an exciting evening.

DINING

Dining Overview

Lisbon offers everything from refined delicacies to humble regional recipes. Local ingredients, including seafood, are the base for most dishes. The most popular dining neighborhoods, with the biggest variety of restaurants, are Bairro Alto and Chiado.

Despite the depth of their traditional cuisine, Lisboans are fond of food from other parts of the world. Africa, Asia and the Americas are all represented in Lisbon's restaurant choices. Vegetarians will be glad to know that there are several excellent vegetarian restaurants in the city.

If you order regional food, be prepared for big servings. In quite a few places you can avoid those by ordering uma meia dose (half a meal). Lisboans rarely sit down for breakfast. They'd rather stand by the counter, drinking a bica (espresso) and eating a pastry. Brunch, however, has become quite popular on weekends.

Lunch is no longer the event it used to be, but many people still go to a restaurant for a midday meal. Dinner, however, is becoming more important. Some people dress up when they go out for dinner, although in most places there are no strict dress codes.

Breakfast is usually eaten 7-10 am. Lunch is served noon-3 pm, with most people eating between 1 and 2 pm. Dinner is served 7:30-10:30 pm, though most restaurants remain open until the last customers have finished their coffee—usually around midnight.

Expect to pay the following for a single dinner, excluding drinks, tax and tip: $ = less than 15 euros; $$ = 15 euros-25 euros; $$$ = 26 euros-50 euros; $$$$ = more than 50 euros.

Alma Rua Anchieta 15 Famous for his TV cooking shows, chef Henrique Sa Pessoa opened this restaurant to further showcase his creativity in the kitchen. It's a Lisbon, Portugal 1200-023 small space but with a menu big on innovative dishes of contemporary Phone: 21-347-0650 Portuguese cuisine. Tuesday-Sunday 12:30-11 pm. $$$. Most major http://www.almalisboa.pt credit cards. Rua Anchieta 15, Lisbon. Phone 21-347-0650. http://www.almalisboa.pt.

A Travessa Travessa do Convento das Bernardas 12 This Luso-Belgian restaurant is housed in the converted Convento das Lisbon, Portugal 1200-638 Berardos monastery. If you don't like mussels, there are always excellent fish dishes such as tamboril flamejado (seared monkfish), Phone: 21-390-2034 meat options including pernil de pata negra assado no forno (roast http://www.atravessa.com shank of black pig), and plenty of Portuguese dishes. Service is outstanding, the wine list is exhaustive and the monastic setting with antique furniture is stunning—a beautiful courtyard opens up in summer. The fine Belgian beer should not be missed. Monday-Saturday 7:30 pm- midnight. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Travessa do Convento das Bernardas 12, Sao Bento (take Tram 28), Lisbon. Phone 21-390-2034. http://www.atravessa.com.

Cafe No Chiado Largo do Picadeiro 10-12 This stylish cafe and restaurant is a good spot to relax after a performance at the nearby Teatro de Sao Carlos. A plate of the day Lisbon, Portugal 1200-330 features fish or meat, and the arroz de pato (duck with rice) is always a Phone: 21-346-0501 good choice. It has a good selection of salads, too. Daily 10 am-2 am. http://www.cafenochiado.com Reservations recommended for dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Largo do Picadeiro 10-12, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-0501. http://www.cafenochiado.com.

Decadente Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara 81 This popular and stylish but informal restaurant serves modern Portuguese food at the back of the Independente Hostel. Sunday Lisbon, Portugal 1250-238 brunch is a bit hit-and-miss, but menu dishes are good quality and well- Phone: 21-346-1381 presented. The bar serves great cocktails, too. Daily noon-midnight. http://www.thedecadente.pt Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara 81, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-1381. http://www.thedecadente.pt.

Eleven Rua Marques de Fronteira Delicious local cuisine prepared by chef Joachim Koerper. The restaurant has elegantly designed surroundings and a fabulous view of Lisbon, Portugal 1070 the old and modern parts of Lisbon. Daily 12:30-3 pm and 7:30-11 pm. Phone: 21-386-2211 $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Rua Marques de Fronteira, Lisbon. http://www.restauranteleven.com Phone 21-386-2211. http://www.restauranteleven.com.

Ponto Final Cais do Ginjal 72, Cacilhas Cross the river on the ferry from Cais do Sodre, take a short walk along the river, and you'll find this restaurant right on the water. It offers Lisbon, Portugal magical sunset views across the city, excellent Portuguese cuisine and Phone: 21-276-0743 good wines. A great place to spend a summer evening. The cult movie A Cidade Branca (The White City) about Lisbon was filmed there. Wednesday-Monday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Cais do Ginjal 72, Cacilhas, Lisbon. Phone 21-276-0743.

Restaurante Pap'Acorda Avenida 24 de Julho, Ribeira Market This restaurant offers up-to-date versions of classic Portuguese dishes, including acorda (various ingredients, usually including seafood, Lisbon, Portugal 1200-479 mashed into wet bread and often topped with an egg). The pasteis de Phone: 21-346-4811 massa tenra (meat pastries) are also delicious. Sunday and Tuesday- http://papacorda.com Thursday noon-midnight, Friday and Saturday noon-2 am. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida 24 de Julho, Ribeira Market, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-4811. http://papacorda.com.

Sinal Vermelho Rua das Gaveas 89 Since the 1980s, this restaurant has been one of the most popular in the Bairro Alto district. The food is traditional Portuguese cuisine but with a Lisbon, Portugal 1200-206 few original surprises, and it's always served in a relaxed, informal Phone: 21-346-1252 ambience. Monday, Tuesday and Saturday for dinner; Wednesday- https://www.facebook.com/restaurantesinalvermelho Friday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua das Gaveas 89, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-1252. https://www.facebook.com/restaurantesinalvermelho.

Taberna Ideal Rua da Esperance 112-114 This cozy, welcoming little restaurant serves Portuguese food with a modern twist. The menu is designed for sharing, but even if you're on Lisbon, Portugal 1200-658 your own, you'll be entering food heaven with such dishes as chicken Phone: 21-396-2744 liver and apples poached in balsamic vinegar. Wednesday-Saturday for dinner, Sunday for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Rua da Esperance 112-114, Lisbon. Phone 21-396-2744.

Tasca da Esquina Rua Domingos Sequeira 41-C Long known as one of the city's best chefs, Vitor Sobral decided to Lisbon, Portugal 1350-119 make his cuisine accessible to everyone. For that he created a low-cost menu that remains high on quality, made up of tapas-sized portions and Phone: 21-099-3939 served in a relaxed atmosphere. Although based on traditional cuisine, http://www.tascadaesquina.com everything served has Sobral's personal touch. Daily 12:30-11:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua Domingos Sequeira 41-C, Lisbon. Phone 21-099-3939 or 91-983-7255. http://www.tascadaesquina.com.

Tavares Rua da Misericordia 37 Portugal's oldest restaurant is a palatial space with a young chef who Lisbon, Portugal 1200 already has been awarded a Michelin star. The cuisine is mostly Portuguese with some international influences. Monday-Saturday 7 am- Phone: 21-342-1112 11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Rua da Misericordia 37, Lisbon. http://www.restaurantetavares.pt Phone 21-342-1112. http://www.restaurantetavares.pt.

African

Ibo Cais do Sodre, Armazem A The flavors of Mozambique (a former Portuguese colony in Africa) are served at this riverfront restaurant in a contemporary interior or at tables Lisbon, Portugal 1200-450 placed outside. Tuesday-Friday 12:30-11 pm, Saturday 12:30-1 am, Phone: 21-342-3611 Sunday 12:30-3:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Cais do Sodre, http://www.ibo-restaurante.pt Armazem A, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-3611 or 96-133-2024. http://www.ibo-restaurante.pt.

Calcuta Rua do Norte 17-19 Vegetarians will find plenty of choices at Calcuta, where Punjabi cooks Lisbon, Portugal 1200-283 prepare many dishes without meat. It's a warm and enchanting place with good service, right in the middle of one of Lisbon's hottest Phone: 21-342-8295 neighborhoods. Daily noon-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. http://www.restaurantcalcuta.com Most major credit cards. Rua do Norte 17-19, Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-8295. http://www.restaurantcalcuta.com.

Restaurante Huang He Avenida de Berna 21 Fine Chinese cuisine is served in this good-sized establishment. A buffet is also available. Daily 10:30 am-11:30 pm. $-$$. Most major credit Lisbon, Portugal cards. Avenida de Berna 21, Lisbon. Phone 21-609-3066. Phone: 21-609-3066 https://www.facebook.com/pages/Huang-He/184991014886706. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Huang- He/184991014886706

Wok Rua da Santa Justa 105-A For buffet-style Chinese food, head to the base of the Santa Justa elevator. Choose from an array of cooked food or select the ingredients Lisbon, Portugal 1100-484 for the chef to stir fry as you watch. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Most Phone: 21-347-3181 major credit cards. Rua da Santa Justa 105-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-347- http://www.wok.com.sapo.pt 3181. http://www.wok.com.sapo.pt.

Casanostra Travessa do Poco da Cidade 60 Serving refined Italian cuisine, Casanostra is a must for those who love Italian food. Sunday-Friday 12:30-2:30 pm and 8-11 pm, Saturday 8-11 Lisbon, Portugal 1200-334 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Travessa Phone: 21-342-5931 do Poco da Cidade 60, Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-5931. http://www.casanostra.pt http://www.casanostra.pt.

Esperanca Rua do Norte 95 This Bairro Alto restaurant serves fantastic gourmet pizza with such toppings as figs and truffles, as well as a range of more standard Lisbon, Portugal 0630 options. It also offers the famous Santini ice creams if you have room for Phone: 21-343-2027 dessert. Monday-Friday for dinner; Saturday and Sunday for lunch and https://www.facebook.com/restauranteesperancabairro dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua do Norte 95, Lisbon. Phone 21- 343-2027. https://www.facebook.com/restauranteesperancabairro.

Vegetarian

Jardim dos Sentidos Rua da Mae D'Agua 3 This is a favorite restaurant for many vegetarian and health-conscious Lisbon, Portugal 1250-154 locals. It serves an excellent-value buffet at lunchtime, and an a la carte service for dinner. There is a pleasant courtyard with seating. Monday- Phone: 21-342-3670 Thursday noon-3 pm and 7-10:30 pm, Friday noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm, http://www.jardimdosentidos.com Saturday 7-11 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Rua da Mae D'Agua 3, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-3670 or 91-494-4700. http://www.jardimdosentidos.com.

Os Tibetanos Rua do Salitre 117, Rato This Buddhist-run restaurant serves excellent vegetarian Tibetan Lisbon, Portugal 1250-198 dishes. There's a small patio in the back where tables are often placed. The restaurant is housed below Lisbon's Buddhist Center, which holds Phone: 21-314-2038 daily meditation and prayer sessions. Monday-Friday 12:15-10:30 pm, http://www.tibetanos.com Saturday and Sunday 12:45-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $. No credit cards. Rua do Salitre 117, Rato, Lisbon. Phone 21-314-2038. http://www.tibetanos.com.

Terra Rua da Palmeira 15 Terra is one of the oldest vegetarian restaurants in the city and remains Lisbon, Portugal 1200-329 popular thanks to its varied dishes inspired by several world cuisines. Tuesday-Sunday 12:30-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua da Phone: 21-342-1407 Palmeira 15, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-1407 or 70-710-8108 for http://www.restauranteterra.pt reservations. http://www.restauranteterra.pt.

Benard Rua Garrett 104 Sitting down for tea used to be a ritual in Lisbon, and Benard was the most atmospheric place to enjoy it. The tea culture has largely Lisbon, Portugal 1200-205 disappeared, but Benard still has good service and pastries. Be sure to Phone: 21-347-3133 try the famous chocolate croissants. Monday-Saturday 8 am-11 pm. $- https://www.benard.pt $$. Most major credit cards. Rua Garrett 104, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-347-3133. https://www.benard.pt.

Cafe Royale Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 29 Bright, cheerful decor and friendly staff make this a lovely place to enjoy lunch, an afternoon snack or a full meal. There's a tiny garden out back Lisbon, Portugal with orange trees. The menu includes Mediterranean dips, bagels, Phone: 21-346-9125 salads and sandwiches, but it also has more substantial dishes. http://www.royalecafe.com Monday-Wednesday noon-11 pm, Thursday-Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday 11 am-8 pm. $-$$$. Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 29, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-9125. http://www.royalecafe.com.

Pois Cafe Rua Sao Joao da Praca 93-95 Mixing the flavors of Austria with a relaxed ambience and a wide selection of magazines makes this one of Lisbon's favorite cafes. In Lisbon, Portugal 1100-521 addition to daily specials, it also serves brunch on weekends. Monday Phone: 21-886-2497 noon-11 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-11 pm. $. Most major credit http://www.poiscafe.com cards. Rua Sao Joao da Praca 93-95, Lisbon. Phone 21-886-2497. http://www.poiscafe.com.

Vertigo Cafe Travessa do Carmo 4 This cafe is perfectly designed in the retro chic of the 1950s with vintage furnishings and a stained-glass ceiling. It's also known for its chocolate Lisbon, Portugal cake, which is a perfect colder-day companion to the various teas on the Phone: 21-343-3112 menu. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner only. $. Most major credit cards. Travessa do Carmo 4, Lisbon. Phone 21- 343-3112.

Cafe A Brasileira Rua Garrett 120 This is one of the most famous coffeehouses in Lisbon. Founded more than 100 years ago, it has been a favorite meeting place of Portuguese Lisbon, Portugal 1200-205 artists. Works of art by some of the cafe's more famous patrons hang on Phone: 21-346-9541 the walls, and the almost life-size statue of Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa practically begs you to take a picture (many tourists do). Unfortunately, the food and service are not as nice as the decor. It might be best to pop in for a few photos and then grab some coffee elsewhere. Daily 8 am-2 am. $. Most major credit cards. Rua Garrett 120, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-9541.

Pastelaria Sala de Cha Versailles Ave. da Republica 15-A Arguably the most beautiful coffeehouse in Lisbon, it is a riot of original art-deco chandeliers, stained glass, stucco, marble, mirrors and Lisbon, Portugal 1050-185 columns. Very nice atmosphere. Try the pasteis de nata. Daily for Phone: 21-354-6340 breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Ave. da https://www.facebook.com/pastelariaversailles Republica 15-A, Lisbon. Phone 21-354-6340. https://www.facebook.com/pastelariaversailles.

Bica do Sapato Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazem B, Cais This enormous restaurant includes a fine-dining area, a cafeteria and a da Pedra sushi bar. Aside from the sushi bar, the food is mostly Continental, but Portuguese ingredients are used wherever possible. The food is good, Lisbon, Portugal 1950-376 but the stylish contemporary decor and riverfront setting are the main Phone: 21-881-0320 attractions at Bica do Sapato—as are the people-watching opportunities. http://www.bicadosapato.com This is definitely a place to see and be seen—wear your best clothes. Monday 5 pm-midnight, Tuesday-Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday 12:30-4 pm. Reservations recommended; try to get a table at the cafeteria. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazem B, Cais da Pedra (in front of Santa Apolonia train station, overlooking the Tagus River), Lisbon. Phone 21-881-0320. http://www.bicadosapato.com.

Bistro 100 Maneiras Largo da Trindade 9 Popular with Lisbon fashionistas, this is a classy place for cocktails, snacks or full meals. If you like getting dressed up to go out, this is a Lisbon, Portugal 1200-466 good place to go to be seen. The smoke-free area upstairs is cozy and Phone: 91-030-7575 has views of the river. Popular dishes include the beef steak, salmon https://100maneiras.com burger and mushroom risotto. Daily noon-2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Largo da Trindade 9, Lisbon. Phone 91-030-7575. https://100maneiras.com.

Snob Rua do Seculo 178 A favorite with journalists, Snob is a smoky, publike restaurant that serves tasty traditional Portuguese food until the wee hours of the Lisbon, Portugal 1200 morning. A good spot to mingle with the local intelligentsia. Daily 4 pm-3 Phone: 21-346-3723 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua do Seculo 178, Bairro Alto, Lisbon. http://www.snobarestaurante.com Phone 21-346-3723. http://www.snobarestaurante.com.

Cervejaria Ramiro Avenida Almirante Reis 1 A firm favorite among locals and tourists alike, this is the place to go for fantastic seafood and draft beer. It doesn't take reservations, so go Lisbon, Portugal early or be prepared to wait in line for a table, especially at peak times Phone: 21-885-1024 (have a beer while you wait). The restaurant provides iPads for tourists http://www.cervejariaramiro.pt to help decipher the menu. Try the tiger prawns and finish your meal with a steak sandwich. Be warned: It gets noisy and chaotic, so it's not the place for a quiet, romantic evening. Tuesday-Sunday noon-12:30 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida Almirante Reis 1, Lisbon. Phone 21-885-1024. http://www.cervejariaramiro.pt.

Doca Peixe Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazem 14 The daily selection of grilled fish is worth the wait and the slightly high prices. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Lisbon, Portugal 1350-353 Most major credit cards. Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazem 14, Lisbon. Phone: 21-397-3565 Phone 21-397-3565. http://www.docapeixe.com. http://www.docapeixe.com

Gambrinus In a city where seafood is part of almost every menu, Gambrinus has for Rua das Portas de Santo Antao 23 decades stood out for the quality offered. Although it's not cheap, this is a classic Lisbon experience you won't want to miss. Daily noon-1:30 am. Lisbon, Portugal 1150-264 $$$$. Most major credit cards. Rua das Portas de Santo Antao 23, Phone: 21-342-1466 Lisbon. Phone 21-342-1466. http://www.gambrinuslisboa.com. http://www.gambrinuslisboa.com

Sea Me Rua do Loreto 21 Thoroughly recommended for seafood lovers, especially those who like Lisbon, Portugal Japanese food. Sea Me's chef, Filipe Rodrigues, combines the best of Portuguese and Japanese cuisine and adds his own special twist to Phone: 21-346-6465 classics and innovative dishes alike. Daily for lunch and dinner. http://www.peixariamoderna.com Reservations essential on weekends. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rua do Loreto 21, Lisbon. Phone 21-346-6465. http://www.peixariamoderna.com.

Cafe Buenos Aires Calcada do Duque 31-B There's a definite South American atmosphere in this cozy, Lisbon, Portugal 1200-155 unpretentious restaurant with mismatched wooden furniture and low lighting. Its steaks are imported twice a week from Argentina and melt in Phone: 21-342-0739 the mouth. There is a second location at Calcada do Duque 31-B. http://www.cafebuenosaires.pt Monday-Friday 6 pm-1 am, Saturday and Sunday noon-1 am. Reservations recommended, although you may be able to squeeze in for an early sitting if you turn up without one. $$. No credit cards. Calcada do Duque 31-B, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-0739. http://www.cafebuenosaires.pt.

Cervejaria da Trindade Rua Nova da Trindade 20-C This noisy steak house and seafood restaurant is located in a former Lisbon, Portugal 2715-311 brewery. It's worth a visit just to look at the azulejos (tiles). Daily 10 am- midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rua Nova da Trindade 20-C, Phone: 21-342-3506 Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Phone 21-342-3506 or 93-990-0844. http://www.cervejariatrindade.pt http://www.cervejariatrindade.pt.

Cervejaria Portugalia Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa This landmark steak house and brewery gets especially busy in the summer. The menu quality varies, but its steak specialty, bife a Lisbon, Portugal 1200-109 Portugalia, is usually reliable. There are additional locations dotted Phone: 21-342-2138 around the city, including in the major shopping malls. Daily noon-1:30 http://www.portugalia.pt am. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa (near the Cais do Sodre metro stop), Lisbon. Phone 21-342-2138. http://www.portugalia.pt.

La Brasserie de l'Entrecote Rua do Alecrim 117 This restaurant is decorated like an art-deco French brasserie. Its signature dish is grilled entrecote with french fries—the only other menu Lisbon, Portugal option is grilled seitan, for those who don't eat steak. It has good wines, Phone: 21-347-3616 a nice selection of other French beverages and wonderful desserts. http://www.brasserieentrecote.pt Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Rua do Alecrim 117, Chiado, Lisbon. Phone 21-347- 3616. http://www.brasserieentrecote.pt.

La Paparrucha Rua Dom Pedro V 18-20 The house specialty is steak based on Argentinean and Brazilian traditions, to be enjoyed as you look out on a fabulous view of the city. Lisbon, Portugal 1250-094 Monday-Friday noon-11:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 12:30-11:30 pm. Phone: 21-342-5333 $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rua Dom Pedro V 18-20, Lisbon. http://www.lapaparrucha.com Phone 21-342-5333. http://www.lapaparrucha.com.

SECURITY

Etiquette

Lisboans are generally a relaxed, friendly and laid-back people.

Personal Introductions—In business situations, it's common to shake hands when greeting someone. Women often kiss on each cheek, but men should allow the woman to offer her cheek first.

Conversation—When talking, be sure to maintain eye contact. Light conversational touching may be acceptable in informal situations. Body Language—Don't stretch in public as this is considered rude. Also, don't turn your back toward someone in the group you are with. (If you do, apologize and don't repeat the offense.)

Business Entertaining—Always use a knife and a fork to eat your meals, and never use your fingers unless you are eating finger food.

Lisbon—like Portugal in general—has one of the lowest violent-crime rates in Europe. However, crime does exist, from pickpockets on the trams to purse snatchers in the street. You can walk about at night, but avoid deserted or badly lit streets. (Be especially mindful in the Bairro Alto and avoid Baixa late at night.) Keep an eye on your belongings and avoid setting them down where they can be stolen.

Some areas on the outskirts of town can be dangerous, though there's little reason travelers would want to be there anyway. Parts of the might be worked by streetwalkers at night, and the Rua da Palma and lower part of the Avenida Almirante Reis can also be dicey.

Ask your hotel's concierge or front-desk staff about any area you want to visit. If you need assistance on the street, many Portuguese, particularly younger people, speak English and are willing to help. The nationwide emergency phone number is 112. There's a police station with 24-hour service for tourists (PSP-Esquadra de Turismo) in the Palacio Foz next to the Turismo on Praca dos Restauradores. Phone 21-342-1634.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

In general, the food is safe to eat, the water is fine to drink and there are no problems with public sanitation. No health certificates or vaccinations are required.

In emergencies, go to the Hospital de Sao Jose, Rua Jose Antonio Serrano (metro: Martim Moniz, phone 21-884-1000) or Hospital de Santa Maria, Avenida Prof. Egas Moniz (metro: Cidade Universitaria, phone 21-780-5000).

Pharmacies (farmacias) are almost everywhere. Every farmacia lists the nearest one open in the late evening or 24 hours. You can also call 1820 for more information.

Smoking is prohibited in all public places, including restaurants and bars, although some have special (separate) smoker sections, as allowed by law. You may also find some establishments that have opted to permit smoking. As a consequence, smoking in bars, especially in Bairro Alto, is still fairly common.

For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

As an ancient city with many old buildings, Lisbon has places where disabled visitors will experience some difficulty getting around. Most hotels and restaurants and a good number of attractions offer access to disabled tourists. Unfortunately, some places are still impossible for people with special needs to enter. The wild local parking habits are also not helpful when trying to cross a street with a wheelchair. Lisbon's hotels have taken notice of the requirements of the disabled, and there are many good ones with excellent access for wheelchairs.

The bus operator Carris provides a special door-to-door service for those in wheelchairs, but a special card has to be applied for to use it. It runs on pre- established routes Monday-Friday 6:30 am-9:30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 8 am-10 pm. You must contact Carris 48 hours in advance to arrange for a pick- up. More than 40% of its fleet is accessible for people with reduced mobility and 30% has room for wheelchairs and an access ramp. For more information, phone 21-361-3141 or stop by any Carris booth (look for the small orange kiosks). http://www.carris.pt.

The tour operator Accessible Portugal organizes special Portugal tours for people with disabilities. It uses cars and buses specially equipped for wheelchair access and books rooms in hotels catering to disabled visitors. You can also rent wheelchairs and other equipment there. Rua Joao Freitas Branco, No. 21D, Lisbon. Phone 21-720-3130. http://www.accessibleportugal.com.

Several beaches, including Cascais, Estorlil, Faro and , have ramps and facilities for people with reduced mobility.

Do take it slowly. Doing things devagar still is an honored Portuguese tradition; doing them amanha (tomorrow or the day after), even more so. Never appear impatient.

Don't talk when a fado singer is performing, as it is considered deeply insulting. Portuguese people will remain absolutely silent during a song.

Do try to get a window seat when flying to Lisbon. The landing approach is often spectacular.

Don't say gracias—that's Spanish. Women should say obrigada, and men, obrigado (I am thankful or obliged).

Do remember the names of some Portuguese soccer stars, such as Luis Figo, Cristiano Ronaldo and coach Jose Mourinho. The Portuguese are typically mad for soccer, and saying a few nice words about the quality of Portuguese soccer is a great way to start a conversation.

Don't confuse Portuguese bullfights with those of Spain. The bull is never killed in Portugal.

Do say com licenca (with your permission) to say excuse me if you want to get past someone or end a telephone conversation. Desculpe or desculpa is used more as an apology if you have done something wrong or if you are trying to get someone's attention.

Don't jump the line at bus and tram stops; stay in line and board when it's your turn.

Don't be afraid to send back unsolicited appetizers in restaurants. The waiter will usually bring a few dishes to your table, but they aren't freebies, so decide whether or not you want to pay for them before tucking in.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need passports, proof of sufficient funds and onward passage. However, citizens of the U.S. and Canada do not need a visa for stays of up to 90 days. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. Population: 2,843,410.

Languages: Portuguese.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).

Time Zone: Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 351, country code;

Currency Exchange

Portugal uses the euro, and ATMs are the best way to obtain them. There are ATMs throughout the city, and they are easily identified by the letters "MB" (Multibanco) in blue. All of them accept credit cards, as well as most other bank cards, but you may encounter the odd one that refuses international cards.

All banks in Portugal will exchange money, but they charge an exchange fee, usually around 5 euros. Some hotels will exchange money, and some will claim not to charge any fee—whenever this is the case, the exchange rate will definitely not be favorable. You might want to carry bills smaller than 50 euros, as in some places—especially taxis—larger bills may be difficult to change.

If you still have escudo bills from a previous visit, you can exchange them at all branches of the Portuguese Central Bank through February 2022. Escudo coins can no longer be changed into euros.

In Portugal, the majority of purchases and transactions are subject to IVA, also known as the value-added tax (VAT), which is 23%. There are also reduced VAT rates: 6% for essential products, hotels, books and newspapers; and 13% for food and agricultural supplies. The tax is almost always included in the price; when it is not, this fact should be clearly noted. Look for the small print on the bottom of the price tag—the end price is probably there.

With a little paperwork, non-European Union residents can obtain a tax refund for purchases of more than 50 euros before tax in a single store during a single visit. This only applies to items you are carrying in your luggage and to private individuals. You need to present three things to the VAT refund officer at the airport before departure to get a refund: the article you purchased, the receipt and a refund form (which must be picked up at the place of purchase). If you don't have these three things, then your refund will be denied. Note that only unused articles are eligible for a refund: If the article looks used, then you won't get your money back. If everything is in order, the VAT refund officer will give you a final form to be mailed in for your refund. For your own convenience, see the VAT officer before checking your bags and have your purchases in an easy-to-reach place.

Some larger stores have a streamlined process: They handle most of the paperwork and then mail the refund to you, sometimes minus a fee. Private VAT refund services, located at the airport, will give you an immediate refund minus a fee, which is usually a percentage of the refund.

If you are traveling to other countries in the EU, you'll have to claim your refunds at your final exit point from the EU. In other words, if you're traveling on to Spain and France and are departing the EU from Paris, you have to claim the VAT refunds from all three countries at the airport in Paris.

In Portugal, tipping is not as important as in some other parts of the world. Every clerk, server and attendant receives a full salary. Tipping is considered an act of appreciation, not a duty.

In hotels, you may wish to offer one or two euros to the bellhop who carries your suitcases up to the room. In taxis, round the bill up to the next euro if you liked the way the driver treated you. In restaurants, add a few euros, but only if you enjoyed the food and the service.

Weather

Lisbon is favored with mild weather all year, and each of the four seasons brings its own beauty. Set in the valley of the Tagus River and close to the , the city enjoys a Continental climate and although summers can get uncomfortably hot, the temperature rarely drops below freezing in winter. It never snows except for a couple of flurries, a phenomenon that happens only every few decades. Still, winter is damp and chilly—be prepared for wet weather November-April. The best months to visit Lisbon are May and June (June is the best because it's full of celebrations). Spring is usually moderate, although April is known for its rainy periods. In summer, the afternoon heat can be unpleasant at times. Autumn is fine, though it can be rainy then, too.

Portuguese people are conscious of what they wear and many people spend considerable sums of money on clothing and the way they look. But there is a fairly relaxed attitude toward the way others are dressed. You can dress up if you want to when you go out to fancy restaurants, the theater or stylish nightclubs, but don't worry too much if you're just sightseeing or bar-hopping in Bairro Alto or Cais do Sodre. Discos will usually refuse entry to men in shorts or sneakers.

Women should cover their shoulders and wear reasonably modest skirts when entering a church, and men should be wearing at least a T-shirt and long shorts.

Even summer nights can be cool, so take a light jacket or a sweater if you plan to spend time by the river. Many bars and restaurants with outdoor seating provide blankets.

For business meetings, dark suits with a tie are de rigueur, and shirts with short sleeves are considered inappropriate. Also avoid very colorful ties. Only remove your jacket when your business partner initiates the move. It is considered a lack of respect if your leather shoes are not clean, since shoeshiners are available everywhere.

Telephone All phone numbers in Portugal have nine digits. Every number in Lisbon begins with a 21, followed by seven digits. You must dial all nine digits, even when calling within the city. Toll-free numbers begin with 800. If you need to find a number within Portugal, you can access a directory by dialing 118.

To call abroad, you must dial the international code, which is 00, plus the country code, and omit the first zero if the telephone number begins with one. If you need assistance placing a call or international directory assistance, dial 1820. This is Portugal Telecom's "number that tells you everything" and can help you with anything from postal codes to booking tickets or making dinner reservations.

Portugal has three mobile-phone companies: Vodafone, TMN (Portugal Telecom) and Optimus. They are strong competitors, and calling between networks can be more expensive than a regular call. Mobile numbers begin with 9. Instead of paying for expensive roaming, you can buy prepaid SIM cards if your device is SIM-free. Several outlets at the airport sell them or you can buy them from any mobile phone shop in the city.

Making calls is easy: You can find phone booths that accept cards (phone cards or credit cards). Coin-operated pay phones have gradually been phased out and are now rare. Cards to use the phones may be purchased from any newsstand and at reception of most hotels.

Most hotels offer Wi-Fi, often for free in the public areas, but do check first. Reception can be patchy and you may need to go to the lobby in order to get a decent signal.

Likewise, many bars, cafes and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi to customers—simply ask staff for the code.

Portugal Telecom (PT) is the largest service provider for Wi-Fi connections. There is usually a fee for access. You can find the location of hot spots and buy an e-Voucher in the PT shops or online (http://www.ptwifi.pt).

Many hot spots are found in the vicinity of post offices, shopping malls, McDonald's restaurants, gas stations and many hotels and cafes. The hot spots in parks and at miradouros are called jardins digitais.

If you buy a pre-paid SIM card and your phone has 3G or 4G capabilities, you will be able to access the internet via a Portuguese mobile phone provider. Rates vary but are likely to be cheaper than roaming charges with your normal provider.

PT Internet Shop Praca Dom Pedro 4 On the corner of Rossio square, Portugal Telecom (PT) has set up a communications shop where you can use its computers and make long- Lisbon, Portugal distance phone calls. Daily 9 am-9 pm. 1.50 euros for 30 minutes of Internet or 2 euros for unlimited surfing. Praca Dom Pedro 4, Lisbon.

Correios de Portugal (Portuguese Postal Service) Praca dos Restauradores 58 There are branches throughout the city, but the most convenient post Lisbon, Portugal 1250-001 office is near the Restauradores metro stop. There are no lines—take a ticket at the entrance and wait for your number to be called on the Phone: 21-326-1370 screen. There are machines throughout the city that dispense postage http://www.ctt.pt stamps. Monday-Friday 8 am-10 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-midnight. Praca dos Restauradores 58, Lisbon. Phone 21-326-1370. http://www.ctt.pt.

There are several daily national newspapers and several weekly newspapers. You can find a few international magazines at most newsstands. You'll have to look a little harder for English-language newspapers, but they're easiest to find in the city center.

The Portugal News (http://www.theportugalnews.com) and Resident (http://www.algarveresident.com) are the two main English-language weeklies. They provide local news coverage, plus entertainment guides and listings.

A few other entertainment guides, such as the monthly Follow Me Lisboa, are published in English, which you can pick up at the Turismo de Lisboa offices. In addition, Time Out Lisboa covers cultural events. This magazine can be found in almost all of the kiosks across town and at downtown bookstores and tobacconists, and listings are available online. http://timeout.sapo.pt.

You can pick up free copies of Welcome Lisboa from many city center cafes, hotels, shops and bars. Organized by geographic area, it contains listings for restaurants, shops, hotels and attractions.

Transportation

Most of the time, you won't need to concern yourself with transportation matters. The heart of the city can be explored on foot if you can manage the hills. If you would rather not walk, take one of the vintage trams. The metro is good for covering long distances, particularly to Parque das Nacoes, and there's a suburban train line connecting Lisbon's Cais do Sodre station and Cascais, with a stop in Belem, a neighborhood also reachable by taking Tram 15. Frequent, modern buses connect you with the rest of the city.

Every Lisboan seems to travel by car. In fact, the number of motorized vehicles entering the city each day is astounding. Rush hour is terrible, particularly if there are any accidents. Renting a car in Lisbon isn't recommended. Public transportation is your best bet unless you are pressed for time, in which case a taxi might get to your destination faster. Taxis are plentiful and affordable, though the cabbies tend to drive on the wild side, so wear your seat belt.

Consideration should be given to purchasing a Lisboa Card. It allows free, unlimited travel on all public transport in the city including the metro, trams, funiculars, Carris buses and CP train lines. It also includes admission to 26 museums, attractions and historic buildings. It can be purchased online, from all Turismo de Lisboa booths and at the airport. https://www.lisboacard.org.

Air

Lisboa (LIS) Lisbon, Portugal 1700-007 (LIS) consists of two terminals of which Terminal 2 is Phone: 218-413500 entirely designed for people who depart in low-cost flights. Blue Air, http://www.ana.pt easyJet, Norwegian, Ryanair, Transavia, and Wizz Air are the airlines operating in Terminal 2. The airport offers flight services to various destinations such as Athens, Birmingham, London Gatwick, London Heathrow, London luton, London Stansted, Moscow, Santander, Sao Paulo Guarulhos, Sao Paulo Viracopos, , Zagreb and others.

Security Passengers need to go through security screening. Fast Track channel enables the registered passengers to speed up the check-in, security control and boarding processes without wasting time in queue. Passengers are required to take the walk-through metal detector screening and their hand baggage is X-ray scanned. Explosive Trace Detection scanning is randomly requested at the check-point to analyze nano-particles. This screening is a non-invasive screening and it does not cause any harm for people or animals or transported goods. Boarding process is simple in Terminal 2.

Connecting Transportation Lisbon airport is located 20 minutes away from the city center. Traveling to and fro from the airport is trouble-free with various transportation means such as metro, buses, taxies, trains, and shuttles. The 'Aeroporto – Saldanha' line will take you to downtown Lisbon in about 20 minutes. To access the metro, one must purchase a '7 Colinas' / 'Viva Viagem' electronic travel card. One can top up this electronic card with a balance. They can use the card for the metro and bus journeys. There are several bus lines from the airport connecting to the different parts of the city. You must take the airport-specific buses such as Aerobus and Airport shuttle if your baggage size exceeds the given size. The Aerobus follows a specific root whereas the airport shuttle takes the passengers to the place they need to go. Aerobus service connects the two terminals of the airport with Entrecampos railway terminal, Sete Rios bus terminal, Cais do Sodre and -Martim Moniz. These aerobuses stops at the city's main hotels and digital panels.

Gare do Oriente is the main train station in Lisbon. It is just 10 minutes away from the metro. From here, Trains are available to all parts of the country. Taxies are an affordable mode of transportation. These are found near the departure and arrival terminals.

Passengers can also use the free shuttle that operates from terminal 1 to terminal 2. This shuttle leaves every 10 minutes from the departure area to the terminal.

If you go to Lisbon by bus, you will arrive in one of three places. Praca de Espanha is the terminal for short-distance buses arriving from south of the river. This is where you can catch a bus to Barreiro, Almada, Montijo and other cities that are almost satellites of Lisbon.

Most of the bus companies serving the far south of Portugal and cities in Spain stop at Gare do Oriente, a large, modern bus station. Buses connecting Lisbon to northern Portugal generally use the Sete Rios terminal on the Jardim Zoologico metro stop.

Never enter a bus through the rear door.

Rede Nacional de Expressos Terminal Rodoviario de Sete Rios This operator is the largest, and it serves the entire country. It can Lisbon, Portugal 1500-423 connect you to almost any town in Portugal. Terminal Rodoviario de Sete Rios, Lisbon. Phone 21-358-1472 for general information or 707- Phone: 21-358-1472 223-344 for service information. http://www.rede-expressos.pt. http://www.rede-expressos.pt

In general, driving in Lisbon isn't recommended, as all major in Portugal seem to have Lisbon as their central point. The A1, connecting Lisbon to Porto in the north, is one of the busiest highways in the country—avoid it at all costs during rush hour. The A1 meets Avenida General Norton de Matos, an expressway that crosses the city—it is also burdened with heavy . There are several exits, most of them poorly marked, but the best one to reach downtown is probably Campo Grande. From there you can drive almost in a straight line to the river.

When you enter the city from the south, you pay a toll of 1.45 euros to cross the 25 de Abril Bridge; you do not pay a toll if you are leaving the city. has a toll of 2.50 euros to enter the city, but no toll to leave.

Note: Most major highways are toll roads, where you go through a toll booth, receive a ticket, and pay the ticket price depending on where you exit the road. Payments for the toll roads may be made in euros or by major credit card. There are an increasing number of electronic toll roads across Portugal where you pay retroactively, so you will need to establish with your car-hire operator how you will pay them. http://www.estradas.pt.

Inside the city, traffic can be chaotic: Construction is constant, people often have no respect for fellow drivers, and some streets are in bad shape (even when not under construction). Beware of couriers driving motorcycles. They will pass on your left or your right and will perform risky maneuvers in the middle of traffic.

In some parts of town, especially the city center, parking can be hard to find. Try to avoid parking where there are self-appointed parking ushers, as they will try to extort money from you after guiding you into a parking spot that you needed no help with. If all the spots on the street are taken, there are a few garages—but they're not cheap. When parked, be sure to keep all valuables out of sight. In addition, keep in mind that it is illegal to talk on a handheld cell phone while driving.

The legal age for drivers is 18, but some rental companies require drivers be 21 or older. If you have a full U.S. or Canadian driving license, you are allowed to drive in Portugal for up to six months. Drive on the right and wear your seat belt.

There are six ferry lines serving Lisbon, all of them operated by the same company, Transtejo. The ferries are a good way to reach Lisbon from the suburbs across the river, including Montijo, , Alcochete, Porto Brandao, Barreiro and Almada. It takes about 10 minutes to cross the river between Lisbon and Almada. Refer to the Transtejo website for scheduling and ticket prices. Phone 80-820-3050. http://www.transtejo.pt.

Tickets may be purchased in the ferry terminals in Praca do Comercio or Cais do Sodre.

The easy-to-navigate metro is probably the most convenient way to cover distance, though it doesn't go to every corner of town. City buses, although slower, cover all of Lisbon. You can also get around on the few remaining trams in the city—Tram 28 is highly recommended—but these are notable more for their charm than their efficiency. The tickets are the same as those for buses.

For routes and timetables, consult the Transporlis website or download the app to your device. http://www.transporlis.sapo.pt.

If you are planning on covering a lot of ground, consider the Lisboa Card, a multipass card that can save you money on transportation. It provides access to most public transportation, as well as free and discounted admission at various attractions.

Carris Buses Rua 1 de Maio Carris is the sole bus company licensed to operate within Lisbon. If you Lisbon, Portugal 1300-472 don't have the tourist pass that allows free use of the city's transport, you can purchase tickets from the driver. Monday-Friday 8 am-7 pm. Phone: 21-361-3000 See the website for scheduling and ticket prices. Rua 1 de Maio, Lisbon. http://www.carris.pt Phone 21-361-3000. http://www.carris.pt.

Metro Lisbon, Portugal If you haven't got a Lisbon Card, Zapping or a daily travel pass, you will need to buy a Viva Viagem card for 0.50 euros (rechargeable for one Phone: 21-350-0115 year) then add trips at 1.40 euros each. A single trip can be combined http://www.metrolisboa.pt with Carris services to complete a journey within the space of one hour. Ticket machines are available at the entrance to every metro station and major stations have manned ticket booths. Daily 6:30 am-1 am. 6.40 euros one-day ticket. Phone 21-350-0115. http://www.metrolisboa.pt.

Zapping Lisbon, Portugal If you plan to make a lot of journeys within 24 hours, you should load up a Viva Viagem card with a daily pass that allows you to use buses, trams, elevators and the metro. The card costs 0.50 euros and can then be loaded up at any time for up to a year. Validate your journey by tapping the card as you enter and the cost of the journey will be debited. Using Zapping (the term for these short-term cards) on the bus or metro costs less than a normal single trip (1.25 euros instead of 1.40). Urban train journeys up to one-and-a-half hours cost 1.80 euros. The first time you load your card, the minimum is 5 euros, but after that you can add any amount 0.01 euros-15 euros so you don't waste any money. You also get bonus credits each time you top up your card, so check your balance before adding more credit.

You can buy the green Viva Viagem card from the machines or ticket booths at metro and train stations and recharge them at the same places or in post offices, newsstands and places that sell lottery tickets.

Several taxi companies, in addition to private taxis, operate in the city. Taxis are beige, though there are still a few black cars with green roofs left—the original colors of taxis in Portugal. Taxis can be hailed on the street or arranged by phone, though there is an extra charge for ordering by phone.

All taxis are metered. Drivers will charge an extra 1.60 euros for putting luggage in the trunk or transporting animals. Prices increase by 20% after 9 pm and on Saturday, Sunday and holidays.

Autocoope Ave. Visconde Valmor 30-R-C Daily 24 hours. Ave. Visconde Valmor 30-R-C, Lisbon. Phone 21-793- Lisbon, Portugal 1050-240 2756 (operators speak English). http://autocoope.pai.pt. Phone: 21-793-2756 http://autocoope.pai.pt

Radio Taxis de Lisboa Lisbon, Portugal The oldest and largest taxi cooperative in the city. Daily 24 hours. Phone Phone: 21-936-2113 21-936-2113 (operators speak English). http://www.taxislisboa.com/radiotaxislisboa.html http://www.taxislisboa.com/radiotaxislisboa.html.

CP-Comboios de Portugal Calcada do Duque 20 CP is the only railway company in Portugal. From the north, you arrive Lisbon, Portugal 1249-109 at Santa Apolonia railway station, a short distance from Praca do Comercio and from the riverfront. You can also disembark at Oriente Phone: 808-208-208 station at Parque das Nacoes. From there, trains depart for destinations http://www.cp.pt south of the river, crossing the Ponte 25 de Abril. Trains for Sintra depart from the central Rossio station, whereas trains for Cascais and Estoril depart from Cais do Sodre. Calcada do Duque 20, Lisbon. Phone 808-208-208. http://www.cp.pt.

For More Information

Additional Resources

The Book of Disquiet by Fernando Pessoa (Penguin Classics).

A Small Death in Lisbon by Robert Wilson (Berkley).

Baltasar and Blimunda by Jose Saramago (Harvest Books)

The History of the by Jose Saramago (Harvest Books).

The Anarchist Banker and Other Portuguese Stories by Eugenio Lisboa, editor (Carcanet Press).

Night Train to Lisbon by Pascal Mercier, translated by Barbara Harshav (Grove Press).

Portugal: A Companion History by Jose Hermano Saraiva (Carcanet Press).

Turismo de Lisboa The main welcome center is located in Praca These tourist offices have a multilingual staff and are able to provide all do Comercio sorts of information, as well as maps, timetables and more. They also sell the Lisboa Card, which offers unlimited travel on public Lisbon, Portugal transportation as well as free admission to many museums and other Phone: 21-031-2700 cultural sights in Lisbon. Additional discount cards for restaurants and http://www.visitlisboa.com shops are also available through the tourism offices. A second center is located in the Santa Apolonia train station. Daily 9 am-8 pm. The main welcome center is located in Praca do Comercio, Lisbon. Phone 21-031- 2700 (general) or 21-031-2800 (tour operators or travel companies). http://www.visitlisboa.com.

EVENTS

Calendar

Lisbon is a city of festivals, especially in the summer. In June, there are three saints' days in addition to the monthlong Festas da Cidade, which celebrates life in the city itself. Music, dance and film festivals round out the calendar, and various cultural institutions host exhibits and other events.

For the sports-minded, there are two local soccer teams, and bullfights are held from spring to fall.

For detailed information about upcoming events in the Lisbon area, contact Turismo de Lisboa. Phone 210-312-700. http://www.visitlisboa.com.

To call the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside Portugal, you must first dial your country's international access code, then Portugal's country code, 351, followed by the number listed. No additional city code is needed. When calling from within Portugal, dial the numbers as they appear.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

April

25 Apr—Liberty Day Public holiday. Commemorates the 1974 revolution.

15 Aug—Feast of the Assumption Public holiday.

1 Dec—Restoration Day Public holiday. The day marks Portugal's restoration of independence from Spain in 1640.

25 Dec—Christmas Public holiday.