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D'agatha Christie DANS LE DEVON SUR LES TRACES D’AGATHA CHRISTIE Cette région du sud-ouest de l’Angleterre hante l’œuvre de la romancière disparue il y a quarante ans. Pèlerinage en territoire christien. PAR NICOLAS UNGEMUTH (TEXTE) ET OLIVIER ROQUES ROGERY (PHOTOS) L’auteur de « Dix petits nègres » rêvasse à la fenêtre de sa propriété de Greenway, non loin de Dartmouth, POPPERFOTO/GETTY IMAGES en janvier 1946. 94 LE FIGARO MAGAZINE - 25 NOVEMBRE 2016 DÉSORMAISDÉSORMAIS CÉLÈBRE,CÉLÈBRE, AGATHAAGATHA CHRISTIECHRISTIE PASSEPASSE SESSES ÉTÉSÉTÉS ÀÀ GREENWAYGREENWAY WWW.BRIDGEMANIMAGES.COM Ci-dessus, un carnet de notes préparatoires pour « Mort sur le Nil » visible au musée de Torquay. Comme l’indique la première ligne (« Miss Marple ? »), à ce stade, Agatha Christie ne savait pas encore lequel de ses personnages fétiches – Marple ou Poirot – elle allait mettre en scène. En haut, l’auteur dans la cuisine de Greenway, sa propriété (à droite). 96 LE FIGARO MAGAZINE - 25 NOVEMBRE 2016 POURPOUR SONSON CLIMAT,CLIMAT, LELE DEVONDEVON ESTEST SURNOMMÉSURNOMMÉ ““ENGLISHENGLISH RIVIERA”RIVIERA” d’une région couvrant, du sud au nord, les villes de Brixham, un architecte dément, et la terrasse où Agatha prenait le so- Paignton et surtout Torquay, où l’amateur christien se rend leil a été transformée en extension moderne. A l’intérieur, en premier lieu. Car c’est là que tout a commencé. Centre né- en revanche, le touriste peut encore admirer la salle de bal et vralgique de l’univers d’Agatha Christie, station balnéaire le hall d’époque. Agatha Christie utilise le lieu dans trois de très en vogue du temps où l’auteur y vécut, c’est aujourd’hui ses romans : La Maison du péril, Un cadavre dans la bibliothè- une ville paisible, modeste, principalement habitée par des que et La Dernière Enigme. Un peu plus loin, Princess Gar- aulkner avait le Mississippi, retraités venus du nord du pays qui en apprécient le climat. dens, où l’écrivain aimait à se promener, a illustré des scènes Jim Harrison le Montana, Le bas de la ville, qui longe la mer, est assez modeste, mais les d’A.B.C. contre Poirot. Toujours face à la mer trône le mer- Modiano Paris et Pagnol la collines surplombant le nord de la ville au-dessus de Babba- veilleux Grand Hotel qui, chance !, n’a pas été massacré. Provence. Agatha Christie, combe Beach révèlent des quartiers bourgeois à l’architec- C’est là qu’Agatha passa sa lune de miel, le 24 décembre elle, avait son cher Devon. La fameuse En- ture charmante. C’est dans ce coin, par exemple vers le su- 1914, avec son premier mari, le lieutenant Archibald Chris- glish Riviera où le Gulf Stream apporte un perbe hôtel Osborne, qu’Agatha Christie aimait aller se tie, aviateur du Royal Flying Corps, dont elle divorcera en climat d’une douceur unique en Angle- baigner à Meadfoot Beach, sa plage favorite. 1928. Le Grand Hotel, avec sa vue sur la mer, son bar superbe terre : partout, des palmiers et des fleurs et ses vastes chambres - la suite Agatha Christie est à recom- égayent une côte désuète bordée de plages de sable blanc. Agatha est née Miller, à Torquay, le 15 septembre 1890.Pour mander - offre un charme vintage garanti. L’écrivain aux deux milliards de livres vendus (seuls la Bible ses lecteurs, Torquay est un musée à ciel ouvert : plusieurs de A quelques minutes en voiture au nord du Grand Hotel, le et le Coran font mieux), et dont il se vend encore cinq mil- ses romans (Drame en trois actes, Mrs. McGinty est morte, Té- touriste arrive au village féerique de Cockington Court. Un Flions de romans par an, n’a cessé d’utiliser sa région natale moin indésirable, Le Cheval à bascule, L’If et la Rose, Meurtre au hameau de maisons à toit de chaume sorti d’un rêve où Aga- pour planter le décor de ses nombreux crimes. Quarante ans soleil) se passent dans sa ville natale et Poirot et Miss Marple tha avait des amis, les Mallock, chez qui elle se rendait pour après sa mort, comment se porte le Devon ?Le Figaro Maga- y prenaient le thé à l’hôtel Imperial où l’auteur allait danser. faire l’actrice dans des pièces de théâtre amateur. Le lieu est En haut, l’hôtel Art déco mythique de Burgh Island zine mène l’enquête… L’Imperial, superbe bâtiment dominant la mer, construit en magique, enserré dans la campagne d’un vert quasi fluores- où se déroule « Dix petits nègres ». On y accède C’est depuis le minuscule aéroport d’Exeter, où l’on arrive en 1866 et fréquenté par le roi Edouard VII comme par Napo- cent, et la petite route menant de Torquay au village, sillon- par un genre de tracteur qui roule dans la mer. avion à hélices, qu’on rejoint Torbay, appellation officielle léon III, a plus tard été recouvert d’une coque de ciment par nant sous un arc de végétation – au Royaume-Uni, on ­ Ci-dessus, l’une des machines à écrire de l’auteur. 98 LE FIGARO MAGAZINE - 25 NOVEMBRE 2016 25 NOVEMBRE 2016 - LE FIGARO MAGAZINE 99 Il est toujours possible de visiter la côte en empruntant un antique train à vapeur parfaitement conservé. ELLE N’A CESSÉ DE SILLONNER LA RÉGION, ÉTERNELLE SOURCE D’INSPIRATION n’a pas coupé les arbres de part et d’autre du bitume et, acheta en 1938 sa vaste propriété lorsqu’elle devint célèbre… fréquemment, leurs branches se rejoignent, donnant aux Etendue de part et d’autre de la large rivière Dart, Dart- automobilistes l’impression jouissive de rouler dans un tun- mouth se différencie par ses deux rives : sur la rive nord, nel de verdure -, est un enchantement en soi. De retour sur d’anciennes habitations de pêcheurs multicolores en plu- les hauteurs de Torquay, une merveille : Kents Cavern, enfi- sieurs gammes pastel surplombent le fleuve. Sur la rive sud, lade de grottes qui ont été habitées pendant plus de à quelques centaines de mètres de l’imposant Britannia 350 000 ans, aux sculptures naturelles délirantes - on pense Royal Naval College, où la reine Elisabeth II a rencontré Phi- parfois être dans Alien -, où stalagmites et stalactites classi- lip Mountbatten, futur duc d’Edimbourg, des quais pavés et, ques formées il y a deux millions d’années voisinent avec des derrière, des maisons à colombages somptueuses datant des formes organiques cauchemardesques impeccablement XVe et XVIe siècles. C’est sur cette rive, au Royal Castle Hotel mises en valeur : c’est l’un des plus beaux sites paléolithi- (dont l’histoire remonte à 1639 !), que l’écrivain résidait ques au monde. Agatha, que l’endroit avait frappée, le met avant l’achat de Greenway, et l’endroit apparaît sous le nom en scène dans L’Homme au complet marron. de Royal George Hotel dans Témoin indésirable. Pour passer d’une rive à l’autre, les voitures embarquent sur une barge Pour marcher dans les pas de l’écrivain, il s’agit de quitter pour un trajet de deux minutes : ici, l’idée ne serait venue à Torquay et de longer la côte vers le sud. Ignorer Paignton, personne de construire un pont… sans intérêt, et visiter Brixham, adorable petite ville encais- La ville est un havre où l’on aimerait passer plusieurs mois : sée qui est aujourd’hui, malgré ses airs modestes, l’un des c’est la perle du Devon. A côté, la chère Torquay d’Agatha plus importants ports de pêche en Angleterre. C’est ici que passe pour une cité moderne, et on comprend aisément, en Guillaume d’Orange, futur roi Guillaume « William » III, a la visitant, que l’auteur ait décidé de s’y installer. Mais l’écri- accosté avec son armée hollandaise le 5 novembre 1688. vain n’allait pas s’établir en ville avec son second mari, l’ar- Agatha Christie s’y rendait régulièrement pour faire ses chéologue (qui lui transmit l’amour de sa science) Max Mal- courses au fameux marché aux poissons. Pour ce faire, elle lowan. Vivant désormais à Londres, la star du roman policier prenait un train à vapeur et descendait à la station de Churs- se choisit une belle propriété de style géorgien installée dans ton (qui apparaît dans Poirot joue le jeu), à côté de Brixham. un domaine délirant, qu’elle connaît depuis son enfance, La ligne, fermée en 1963, est rouverte aujourd’hui : un train pour en faire leur résidence d’été. Grâce au succès phéno- à vapeur impeccablement conservé dans son jus et entre- ménal qu’elle rencontre dans les années 30, sans aucun tenu par des bénévoles perpétue la tradition et transporte les doute sa période la plus fructueuse( Le Crime de l’Orient-Ex- voyageurs en longeant la côte jusqu’à Dartmouth, la plus press, A.B.C. contre Poirot, Mort sur le Nil, Dix petits nègres), belle ville du Devon, non loin de laquelle Agatha Christie elle peut s’acheter Greenway, qui servira de décor aux ­ 100 LE FIGARO MAGAZINE - 25 NOVEMBRE 2016 Le célèbre Haytor Rocks, dans le sublime Parc national de Dartmoor, où Agatha se rendait à pied depuis l’hôtel Moorlands. DARTMOOR A ÉGALEMENT INSPIRÉ CONAN DOYLE POUR “LE CHIEN DES BASKERVILLE” romans Cinq petits cochons, L’Heure zéro et Poirot joue le sauvages où alternent landes dignes de l’Ecosse et forêts jeu : dans ce dernier, la célèbre scène du crime se passe dans comme importées du Canada. Ici et là, des tors, collines sur- la Boathouse, petite maison donnant sur la rivière (actuelle- montées de formations granitiques généralement arrondies ment en restauration). Dominant la Dart, entourée de bois posées sur l’herbe verte où trottent parmi les moutons les fa- mais aussi de jardins et serres en tout genre, Greenway, léguée meux poneys sauvages de race dartmoor.
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