Volume 18 • Issue 9 • October/November 2018

50 Atkins Paul ©

Departments Features 42 Alaska Traveler 6 Total Access by Andrew Cremata 42 Creel 8 No doubt, having a watercraft of some sort opens Gear Bag 10 up lots of possibilities for Alaskan anglers. Andrew Cremata shares his experience chasing grayling, lake Online 12 © Andrew Cremata © Andrew trout and pike from his new-to-him canoe. Fishing for a Compliment 15 Salmon Sense 16 Arctic Fishing Adventures by Paul Atkins 50 Conservation 18 Fishing the Kobuk River and its tributaries in late Fly 20 summer provides terrific action for chum salmon, sheefish, grayling and pike. Paul Atkins relives the Boats 22 latest rendition of his annual trip to the Kobuk. Saltwater 30 Stillwater 32 The Ubiquitous Egg Sucking Leech 56 Fish for the Future 40 by Terry Sheely 56 Recipe 70 The one “lure” every Alaskan angler should have in their box is likely some version of the egg sucking Advertiser Index 73 leech. A glorified and colorful version of the Woolly © Terry W. Sheely W. © Terry Final Drift 74 Bugger, it has probably caught more of Alaska’s fish species in greater quantities than anything else. Terry is partial to the purple ESL.

The Best of the Panhandle—Exploring­ Sitka’s Productive Saltwater by E. Donnall Thomas Jr. 62 Chinook, silvers and a variety of bottomfish make Sitka one of the most productive sportfishing ports in 62 southeast Alaska. Don Thomas and his wife Lori have been fishing Sitka waters for years and Don shares some of his insight on the fishery.

Special Section: © Don & Lori Thomas Holiday Gift Guide 2018 Part 1 34 r We’ve rounded up some options for you to consider as holiday gifts for the anglers in your life. From apparel to accessories, tackle to gourmet foods, guns

J to boat parts, our Holiday Gift Guide Part 1 will get COVER / Sharna Parker from Taranaki, NZ, with P you thinking about who is on your gift list and what you might end up getting them. Time to decide who’s an Alagnak River chum salmon she caught on - Part I a Sage switch rod. © Gray Struznik/Olympic g been naughty and who has been nice. Peninsula Fly Fishing/www.opflyfishing.com October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 3 PUBLISHERS Marcus Weiner Melissa Norris ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERS Patrick Speranza Kathy Anderson EDITOR George Krumm OPERATIONS MANAGER Wayne Norris EFFICIENCY MANAGER Ana Taylor ART DIRECTOR Bailey Anderson PRODUCTION MANAGER Russell K. Porsley III GRAPHIC DESIGNER Melissa Wong

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Greg Brush, Troy Buzalsky, Andrew Cremata, Les Gara, Scott Haugen, Pudge Kleinkauf, J.D. Richey, Terry Sheely, E. Donnall Thomas Jr., Jeremy Anderson, Nicholas Olhrich

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Hastings A. Franks, Ken Baldwin, Anthony Madden, Tony Davis, Kristin Dunn, Brian Woobank

REGIONAL SALES MANAGER Rick Birch (907) 394-1763 SALES EXECUTIVE Garry Greenwalt (907) 345-4337

Fish Alaska Magazine PO Box 772424 Eagle River, Alaska 99577 Toll Free 1-877-220-0787 (907) 345-4337 main (907) 223-8497 advertising www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com ISSN 2475-5710 (print) ISSN 2475-5729 (online) SUBSCRIBE TODAY! Check out our specials at www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com Already a Subscriber? Call for our renewal specials! (907)-345-4337 Toll Free: 1-877-220-0787

Fish Alaska magazine is published ten times annually in January-July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov and December by Fish Alaska Publications, LLC, P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. Send all address changes to P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. One year subscriptions are $30 U.S. dollars for subscriptions in the U.S., $50 U.S in Canada, and $80 U.S. in all other countries.The single copy price is $6.99 in U.S. dollars. To subscribe by phone please call 907-345-4337. Editorial correspondence should be sent to Attn: Editor, Fish Alaska magazine, P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. Unsolicited manuscripts and photos will be considered, but must be accompanied by a self- addressed stamped envelope. Although we will take care, Fish Alaska is not responsible for the loss or return of unsolicited materials. The opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the opinions of Fish Alaska magazine publishers and editors.

©2018 by Fish Alaska Publications, LLC. All rights reserved. season, melted on a warm day and then froze chrome steelhead near Portage on the Karluk solid for the rest of the winter. Needless to say, River. The Karluk is one of the best fall it was a challenge to get the drift boat thawed steelhead fisheries in Alaska with fresh fish Early Winter in Alaska in the spring so we could float the upper arriving into November. And an additional —10 Tasks for Anglers Kenai in April. benefit is the relative absence of both other By Marcus Weiner anglers and bears at this time of year. 2) Get your snowmachine or other ice fishing ATV ready: Having a snowmachine or ATV 6) Dust off and go through your ice fishing Many of us have spent the summer catching equipped for snow allows you to access a lot tackle: Hopefully you took the time last and putting up fish for the winter. For me more places and gets you to remote locations spring to back off the drags on reels, clean that meant king salmon on the Nushagak where fishing can be better. If you didn’t do and fix rods, clean tackle and replace anything in late June, halibut and rockfish in Yakutat the necessary maintence last spring when you lacking, and sharpen or replace hooks. For Bay in July, and piles of coho on the Togiak in put the machine away for summer, do it now. many, winter rolls into summer rather rapidly August. September was spent chasing ‘bows Breaking down in Alaska is no fun and in the and the ice-fishing equipment gets tossed and dollies that had grown rotund on eggs winter it adds another element of danger. into the back of the garage as soon as the ice and flesh, mixed in with some time in the starts melting. Now is the time to make sure field chasing big game. 3) Purchase a new boat: There’s generally a everything is primed and ready to fish, so that For some people, they are satiated from a significant lead time on getting a new boat when ice fishing heats up you are ready to roll. summer of harvest; long days on the water built, especially bigger boats. This is the with limited sleep and now they are ready perfect time to place your boat order so that it 7) Start planning your 2019 adventures: to relax. For others like me, this time of year is ready for you by spring. I’d say this is a high One of the most exciting tasks for me each presents many options for both on- and off- priority for serious anglers. winter is to plan the following season’s trips. the-water tasks. Here are some to consider in This year I’m thinking about a trip to Kodiak, no particular order of importance. 4) Fish the Kenai for giant ‘bows and late an interior float for char and caribou, a trip silvers: Don’t forget that fish are still biting to a southeast town that I’ve never visited, 1) Winterize your boat: From emptying gas in rivers like the Kenai, and sometimes you’ll and a destination for next year’s Sportsman’s and water in the lines and winterizing your catch the biggest trout of the year now since Warehouse contest. If you’d like suggestions motor to cleaning and organizing gear on they are stretched to capacity having fed for from us on where to go, check out our travel the boat, there are plenty of tasks for anglers the last several months on eggs and flesh. planner forms at www.fishalaskamagazine. in Alaska before putting their boat away for Bright coho can also be found in some places. com/trip-planning-service/ winter. Many have their boats shrink wrapped so that they remain clear of snow and ice. In 5) Fish the Karluk for steelhead (silvers 8) Go through your open water gear from 2008 I neglected to get the drift boat shrink and Dollies there too): One day in early 2018: Remove old line, loosen drags, maintain wrapped and it filled with snow early in the November a while ago, I landed a dozen rods and reels, sharpen hooks, replace hooks, and make a list of inventory to restock. The best time to do this is now so that your gear will be in prime shape for 2019. It’s human nature to procrastinate but the truth is that it will be easier on you and better for your gear if you address issues now and don’t wait until next spring to do maintenance when you really should be out prospecting for rainbows and the first Chinook of the summer.

9) Look at your 2018 pics: This is part of my annual routine and helps remind me of all the good trips. It also gets me thinking about next year and how I am going to duplicate my successes and learn from last season’s mistakes.

10) First ice fishing foray in the northern parts of the state: For residents of the interior, the ice may now be thick enough to fish upon. For ice anglers in Southcentral, be certain that there is enough ice to walk on. I want about six inches of ice before I walk out on it. I’m cautious and want about a foot of ice before I go out on a snowmachine. I err on the conservative. Be extra cautious for inlet streams, warm spots and anything else that might cause the ice to be weak. Go start the ice fishing season off with a bang while there’s still decent daylight and relatively warm weather.

Marcus Weiner is publisher of Fish Alaska and Hunt Alaska magazines. ‘bows. We were layered about epic fishing. little snow on top of it and we had over up much like we’d be if That said, most years a foot of clear, hard ice. We checked we were ice fishing, but I the ice will have ice thickness out in front of the truck Musings was colder that day by far formed over many several times on our way to the new spot Story and photos by George Krumm than I usually am while ice lakes by sometime to ensure it would be thick enough to fishing. Having my lower in November. This support the truck. I don’t recall catching By the time you’re reading this, most body submerged in the is especially true the any giant char that day, but we caught visiting anglers have left the Great cold water was why. Brutal farther from salt water several burbot that were respectable and Land. Once-busy roadside fisheries are conditions for sure, but a lake is. Early season we landed something like 25 fish. It was nearly vacant; mornings are frosty more each rainbow we landed ice fishing is often the the beginning of my serious slide down often than not, and snow will fall in the fueled the inner fire of our best of the season. the ice fishing rabbit hole. lowlands before long. Some of my most memories and we wanted The very first day I vivid memories of good fishing and to stoke that flame for as ever ice fished on Big Since the fishing opportunities in Alaska miserably-tough conditions are of trips long as we could. Winters This large, Kenai ‘bow was caught on October 15th, Early season ice fishing is often very productive. This Arctic Lake in the Valley was are limited in October and November, that happened in October or November. are long in Alaska. several years back. char was taken on a Thanksgiving Day. a late November day we’re including a variety of articles in I remember one such day on a well- On a similar trip I many years ago. My this issue that are not specifically about known lake in Southcentral—Big Lake found myself at upper Summit Lake were brutal. I’ve caught some of my best was absolutely rotund. It measured 31.5 friend Gary Bartleson invited me to go. fishing in October or November. The in the Valley. It was mid-October. A in Turnagain Pass in early November. rainbows out of those systems in October, inches long with over 21 inches of girth. Ice conditions were great for walking on theme of this issue is Multi-species brisk wind was blowing out of the north Again, it was snowing, cold and the fish though. I remember a low-water year Opportunities in October wane, and the ice and we caught several char and Musings. The articles are about a variety and it was snowing. A few inches of snow were shallow. The occasional car zipped on the upper Kenai many years ago by November there’s not a heck of a lot to a couple rainbows near shore. I’d been of angling experiences that span a large covered the South Shore parking lot by on the highway, but nothing like what where fishing held up into late October do except wait for the ice to form on the ice fishing before, but had only caught chunk of Alaska from the panhandle to and boat ramp, yet there I was with my you’d see in summer. I was alone that day. before rains washed the majority of the lakes, clean up the gear we abused in the little stocked rainbows and landlocked the Arctic. Additionally, Part One of the friend Bob Andres, kicking around the I knew the open-water season was about carcasses away and chased most of the summer, break out the fly tying and/or salmon. It was fun, but not something Fish Alaska Holiday Gift Guide is also in shallow chara beds trying to entice just done, but the lake wasn’t frozen yet, so trout into their over-wintering habitat rod building equipment, begin holiday I was keen on doing regularly. The fish this issue. Enjoy! a few more rainbows before we hung up there I was. I even caught a few fish. in the lakes. On one cold, October 15th shopping, maybe start researching a boat we were catching in Big Lake were our stillwater gear for the year. The water I can remember similar weather day I caught 20- or 30 fish—a mixture of purchase, and start planning for what we much larger than stocker rainbows and temperature was 39- or 40 degrees. Snow conditions on the upper and middle Dollies and rainbows. One in particular might do the following spring, summer landlocked salmon. When the action was accumulating on our tubes and our Kenai and the Parks Highway streams was among the largest Kenai ‘bows I’ve and fall. Sure, you might have the slowed, Gary suggested we drive across bodies; our guides were continually in October, sometimes November or landed. I hooked it on an Iliamna Pinkie occasional day where it’s warm enough the lake to a spot he favored, where George Krumm is the Editor of both Fish freezing shut, and fishing was expectedly even December during rare years. The (a chenille egg)—that will give you a to go try someplace, but it’s likely going he suspected we’d do well. I was leery Alaska and Hunt Alaska magazines. He can slow, though we each caught a few common denominator was conditions clue as to how long ago it was. The fish to be more about being outdoors than about driving on the ice, but there was be reached at [email protected]. SKB Cases 3i-4214-12-IF iSeries Ice Fishing Locker www.skbcases.com Kodiak Custom Tackle Tube Jig and Accessories The new SKB 3i-4214-12-IF iSeries Ice www.kodiakcustom.com Fishing Locker is waterproof, USA- Kodiak Custom Tube Jigs and accessories are built tough and designed to made, built to military specifications catch lake trout, pike, burbot, char, rainbow trout and sheefish. These jigs for strength and durability, and features will help you catch fish through the ice or while jigged, casted or trolled tons of room for all your ice fishing in open water. Tube Jigs are available rigged up or each component can be gear—it can even serve as a purchased separately. Jig heads are available in plain or deluxe with a trailer towing sled and a bench on hook/bait loop system. They are manufactured in three sizes, ranging from the ice! It holds up to six rods 1/2-ounce to 1 1/2 ounces and are offered in 4-, 5- and 6-inch-long tubes and reels, has a pull-out tray in multiple colors. that reveals a large (40.5” x 11.5” Okuma Low Profile Line Counter x 5”) cavity for ice auger, tip-ups, Xtratuf Salmon Sisters Legacy Boot and additional ice fishing gear, CW-454D www.xtratuf.com includes four separate plastic divider www.okumafishing.com The Salmon Sisters collaborated boxes for tackle and has wheels and a The larger Cold Water Low Profile Line with Xtratuf to design the Salmon tow handle for easy transport. It carries Counter 454D packs over 30 pounds of Sisters Legacy Collection for strong a lifetime warranty. drag into its compact aluminum frame Korkers Polar Vortex 1200 Boots with its multi-disc, Carbonite drag women everywhere. Wear them with system. With 3BB+1RB stainless-steel pride on and off the www.korkers.com ball bearings, a capacity of 300 yards of water, in the name of Korkers Polar Vortex is the nail 50-pound-test braid, a 5.4:1 gear ratio, sisterhood and fine in the coffin for old-school PAC KastKing Krome Series and left- or right-hand-retrieve, the fashion. These boots boots. This boot is built for the Salmon/Steelhead Rods Cold Water Low Profile Line Counter is are 100% waterproof extreme, featuring 1200 grams of www.kastking.com designed to fit your needs on the water. and provide superior Thinsulate insulation, premium KastKing Krome Series This reel will shine for backtrolling outsole traction. aerogel frost barrier footbed, and rods are made with Toray jumbo divers and bait or large plugs 100% waterproof breathable IM8 carbon blanks and for Chinook, downrigger fishing, and membrane to keep you warm finished using high- trolling heavy weights or divers with or and comfortable. Designed for tech nano-silica resins. without flashers. ultimate winter performance, Krome rods are among support and durability. Includes the lightest, most sensitive and strongest rods available in the Pacific Northwest. Each blank is reinforced with true Kevlar from two Omnitrax interchangeable the butt section through its Fuji reel seat for incredible hook sets and impact resistance. KastKing uses premium Fuji K-Frame, soles for extreme traction in tangle-free guides plus custom carbon handles for extreme durability, and the rods are easily removed from rod holders. They are treacherous winter conditions. available at amazon.com.

October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 11 While the days are shorter and the summer season of fishing has passed, the fishing in Alaska changes as fast as the seasons. As we enter the cold season, the ice-fishing season is just beginning for hard-water anglers.

October/November Highlights: Buying presents for your favorite anglers isn’t stressful if you start early. Find gift suggestions in the 2018 Holiday Gift Guide Pt. 1 on our website with helpful links and more.

We’ve also got Hunt Alaska’s 2018 Holiday Gift Guide online! Find the perfect gift for the special hunter in your life at HuntAlaskaMagazine.com.

Interested in visiting Sitka after reading this month’s feature article? We’ve just posted some great videos from the Sitka area online. Find those and more on

Bonus Online Only Content our website.

Now is a great time to start planning for your 2019 trips! Visit https://www. fishalaskamagazine.com/trip-planning- service/ and tell us what you want to do in 2019 and we’ll help connect you with the right people.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY! Whether the subscription is for you or a gift to friends & family, be sure to check online before ordering for our best deals. There is something for everyone! Print & Digital Be sure to get your online access!

www.fishalaskamagazine.com Eric & Heidi Wallis of Eagle River, AK, present their silver salmon catch on the Kenai River in August 2018. Terren Sugita, 16, with a silver from the Kenai River on a Maxwell Mirka, 5, Katie-Lynne Bante with cold fall day. enjoying a day on the some Tanana River burbot. hard water of Finger Lake in Wasilla. TJ Higuera, 14, Kendra Pisa of Missoula, of Soldotna, MT, caught his AK, with a first silver on nice Dolly on Little Willow Kenai Lake in Creek during February 2018. a family vacation in Dave Cassino with a July 2018. lunker Chatanika River pike in 2018.

Jevin Lim,13, of Anchorage Sila Evans-Peacock and her dad Kendric Siders of Eagle River, AK, caught caught his first silver at Bird Creek Jason Evans with Sila’s first fish—a this 21-inch trout while fishing Finger Lake in July 2018. Unalakleet River coho. in Wasilla. Tayler Lee, 12, caught his first silver ever on a fly rod at Fish Creek.

Anthony Bunch with a nice rainbow taken from a Kenai Peninsula lake in February 2018.

Easton Armstrong of Palmer, AK, with a nice 36-inch pike on Anderson Lake in Wasilla.

Evan Wood, 4, with an Kenai Peninsula fly-fisherwoman awesome lake catch in Sierra Baldwin with her biggest Anchorage. grayling yet. Ernest Stoecklin of Union City, Send us Your Fishing Photos! NJ, caught E-mail hi-res .jpeg photos to: and released [email protected]. Subject Line: FFC. Please this Situk River steelhead in include vital caption information in the e-mail. We will let you May 2018. know when your photo will appear in the magazine. “There’s no way you guys can sit there and tell me you were using these same spinners,” he said. “You must have Magic Lure...Or?? changed lures before you came down Story & photos by JD Richey here! We were watching you catch fish after fish while we barely caught any!” You know how sound—especially I told him we hadn’t changed lures all voices—carries across water, right? Well, day and then invited him to inspect the a friend and I were fishing Ibeck Creek one on my rod. The shaft was all bent out of Cordova one morning a few years up and the paint was nearly gone from back and we could hear the folks fishing repeated battles with leaping coho. 200 yards upstream of us as clear as if “Ok, so what’s the deal then?” his they were five feet away. buddy asked. They were talking about us. We honestly hadn’t been paying much “What the heck are those guys using?” attention to how they had been fishing said one of the anglers. One of his so I asked them to demonstrate. One buddies responded: “I don’t know . . . of the anglers then waded out into the but whatever it is, it is working!” water a few yards and heaved a cast out Another voice chimed in. “Man, they towards the center of the stream. Was it a magic lure that fooled this silver are crushing them! Maybe we should get a “There’s your problem,” my buddy or where the lure was actually placed? little closer and see if we can figure it out.” Reilly said. “You’re casting too far.” Meanwhile the two of us kept catching All three of them looked at him like he Reilly jumped in and explained chrome silvers on virtually every cast. The was pulling their collective leg. Casting that, while high water can seem very guys above kept talking incredulously too far, yeah right! But Reilly had indeed intimidating, you can actually eliminate about our exploits—and inched ever hit the nail on the head. To demonstrate, about 95 percent of the river because the closer. The funny thing was they didn’t I made a cast right at the wading anglers’ fish will use mostly just the edges. “You think we could hear their little plot to feet and let my spinner swing into the are wasting time throwing out into the get a peek of our magic lures. bank. As the lure got within about a foot fast water in the middle,” he said. “In From what we’d heard, they were from shore, a silver inhaled it. flows like this, the majority of your casts struggling mightily and our fish-per-cast The looks on their faces were priceless! should be no more than about 10- or 12 action was driving them nuts. So, we let It was like they’d just seen a magic trick feet out.” them “sneak” up on us a bit more just for and they couldn’t believe their eyes. But The guys nodded in understating as fun and then I turned to my buddy and I explained it wasn’t magic at all. Instead, he spoke and then thanked us profusely asked, “You ready to walk up to them it was simply a matter of lure placement. for the impromptu seminar. “I really and show them what we are doing?” In this case, a big rain caused Ibeck appreciate you guys taking the time to He, of course, said yes and we reeled in Creek to jump from low and clear to high share that because I would have driven and headed upstream. There were plenty and up in the trees overnight. The deep myself crazy trying to figure out what the of fish for everyone and we felt bad for spots out in the middle where our new secret lure was,” one of the anglers said. the trio of hapless guys. friends had been catching fish a day prior “You just saved me a bunch of cash too, “What the heck . . . You guys are were now raging fast. In conditions like because I probably would have bought using spinners just like us,” was the first that, the silvers look for the mellowest up half the store trying to find the right response from one of the gentlemen flows, which are usually located right lure.” when we walked up and said hi. next to the bank. That’s the part of the whole encounter “You guys must be that stuck with me—that such subtle using scent! I knew it! details can often make the difference What flavor is it?” said between success and failure in this game. the second guy. I assured Tim Reilly with These guys weren’t alone; all of us want them we weren’t using a gorgeous silver caught to find the magic bullet, that one lure, any “stink sauce” on our by working the bait or fly that makes the fish bite like lures. edges during piranhas . . . but it just doesn’t usually “Well then, it’s gotta a high-water play out that way. be blade size or color,” event. Nope, to get proficient at catching fish said the third angler. you often have to go beyond the obvious But we showed them and look at things from a different angle. our spinners—we were I suppose that’s also what makes it so running the exact same challenging, rewarding and fun too! silver, size 4 blades with pink bodies as they were. In fact, we were all using the same brand of spinners, too! JD Richey is a full-time fishing guide in At that point, one Alaska and California and an associate of the guys half-jokingly editor of Fish Alaska magazine. He can accused me of lying be reached through his website: www. to them. fishwithjd.com.

16 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 17 Ballot Measure 1: Yes For Salmon By Erica Madison and Kate Crump As dawn breaks across the wild tundra, I slide into my orange rubber rain gear. She pulls beige colored Gore-Tex over fleece. I sit quietly on a wooden bench staring out into the ocean, waiting for the radio to crackle with the opener announcement. She backs her skiff quietly down the ramp into glassy calm headwaters, and prepares for clients. I am Erica Madison, a commercial fisherman, who harvests the abundance of Alaska’s Naknek, Kvichak and Nushagak Rivers. I’ll soon lift my head to breathe from a busy season and go to see my friend, Kate Crump, a fly fishing guide. Kate Erica Madison and Kate Crump remove sockeye is co-owner of Frigate Travel, bringing clients from salmon from a gill net in around the globe to the many corners of the Bristol the Bristol Bay region. © Bay region. Rich Crowder. We hold two of the more than 14,000 jobs that depend on the Bay in very unique fields, with a set of very basic facts. First, water flows downhill and the mine is proposed and who navigate the tender relationship between at the headwaters of Bristol Bay. Second, copper is disastrous for wild salmon—trace sport and commercial fishing as friends. Our jobs amounts released into a waterway makes them unable to find their spawning grounds. in Bristol Bay are different, but we both work as In this case, one plus two equals disaster for the commercial, sport and traditional stewards of the area because we understand that all fisheries of the region, as well as many other species that rely on healthy salmon in this of us who fish here—starting with the indigenous interconnected ecosystem. communities who have subsisted off wild salmon People come to Bristol Bay to fish and to enjoy wild landscapes. They don’t come of the region for generations—rely on healthy, to see a mining district, with industrial noise and mining traffic. Pebble’s footprint will wild river systems. The two of us work long hours be big from the get-go, and would open the door to dozens of other mining claims in distant unison, her in the headwaters of the currently waiting to be developed on the back of the infrastructure Pebble proposes. Naknek, and I twenty miles down in the salt water This November, Alaskans will be asked to vote on Ballot Measure 1, the Yes for bay, though our shared dependency on Bristol Bay’s Salmon ballot initiative, when they go to the polls, which is designed to protect Bristol healthy ecosystem of rivers creates an overlap in Bay and places like it. With Pebble and other similar, massive projects on the horizon, each other’s work. When the rivers are healthy, the we are at a critical juncture in Alaska’s wild salmon future. Measure 1 would modernize return of the largest wild sockeye run in the world Alaska’s existing fish habitat permit law to respond to this new generation of threats. can support our families, as they do for thousands The measure provides new, clear, science-based guidelines for safely developing projects of others in Alaska. Because of this, the proposed like roads, dams, or mines in salmon habitat. Pebble Mine, slated for the headwaters of two of the There are four key changes to the law proposed in Ballot Measure 1. First,it major rivers that flow into Bristol Bay, the Kvichak differentiates between projects with major and minor impacts—streamlining permits and Nushagak, are a direct threat to our way of life, for those with insignificant impacts, but taking a closer look at ones like Pebble that and the lives of many others in our region. could cause a great deal of harm. Second, it involves Alaskans in the permitting process The Pebble Limited Partnership has proposed to by requiring companies to give public notice and comment periods before major construct a gold and copper mine with a massive development permits are issued. Third, it provides certainty for a project developer open pit and tailings dam that would hold materials by listing clear, science-based standards for characteristics of healthy salmon habitat known to be specifically harmful to wild salmon, they’ll need to maintain as the project moves forward. Four, it saves taxpayers money as well as the trophy rainbow trout fishery and by requiring project developers, not the state, to clean up any toxic mess left in salmon abundant wildlife of the region, if ever to be released. habitat. They would plant extremely harmful and poisonous Essentially, the initiative prioritizes responsible development because better salmon materials right here, atop a maze of tundra woven habitat laws are good for fish, which is good for business, and good for Alaska. together by lakes and streams that is the center of Every time Kate and I go out into that glassy Naknek water, the money we bring in is our lives—and the lives of so many others and leave put back into the local economy, supporting the cycle of industry surrounding fishing. it there, scarring the wild landscape, forever. Secure $1.5 billion is the annual economic output of Bristol Bay, with 14,000 jobs created. containment of these toxins at this scale has never Kate and I live and breathe Alaska, and we respect the resource that we are utilizing— been done in mining history, let alone in the wet, the renewable wild sockeye salmon run that drives the productivity here. earthquake-prone landscape of Bristol Bay. If the fish and wildlife can remain healthy in Bristol Bay, jobs and income will be The company also plans to build nearly a available forever, supporting Alaskans in perpetuity. No matter if you’re a sport angler, hundred miles of new roads crisscrossing the a commercial fisherman, or simply an Alaskan unwilling to trade one resource for headwater streams that draw thousands of visitors another, we urge you to speak up. The next step in doing so is to vote YES on Ballot seeking to fish each season. The amount of tailings Measure 1—the salmon habitat initiative—in November. they plan to carry on these roads would require 35 daily round trips made by dump trucks full of mining materials. And these details only encompass Erica Madison served as a U.S. Geological Survey biologist for ten years. She currently phase one. commercial fishes on the Kvichak River in Bristol Bay. Kate Crump spends the summer Anyone who has been to the region can make guiding in Bristol Bay and fall and winter fishing in the Pacific Northwest through her a sound judgement call about this mine plan company, Frigate Adventure Travel. Materials: Hook: Daiichi 1710 size 4 (you can tie Marabou Ham & Eggs more realistic. I wanted to keep the glo bug system in a lot of different color variations this on sizes 8- to 4) Story and photos by Mike Brown tail and head, as this material has a nice and sizes. If you are fishing below areas Tail/Head: Glo Bug yarn, egg-colored gooey, globby look like a piece of dead where people are actively cleaning salmon, Body: peach and cream marabou salmon and it absorbs a lot of water helping bright orange is a good color since the meat plumes When we come into late fall, a major food keep the fly deep, but I wanted to use hitting the water is fresh. If you are fishing Thread: Veevus 140 White source for our rainbow trout is decaying something that gave the body more motion in a river system that does not have salmon salmon flesh. While anyone who ties can and a stringy look like a piece of meat that being filleted, more washed with a hint tie a flesh fly; let’s be honest, it doesn’t has been rolling along the bottom. I started of pink or orange can be very effective as have to be pretty or even sophisticated playing with marabou and really liked how these pieces are coming off of fish that have at all. But playing around with different it gave me a fuller body with the motion already died and are falling apart as they materials and experimenting to create flesh and look I wanted. Using marabou, you tumble down the river. patterns can be a lot of fun. can start mixing colors to get a ton of Good luck! A very popular fly we sell, Ham & Eggs, different color options, from fresh to is a mainstay here. This fly is tied with glo washed out. The color scheme I have tied bug yarn and a chenille body. It’s super for you includes the colors that I use most simplistic and super effective. I started often: peach and cream. Mike Brown is the owner of Mossy’s Fly Shop in thinking about and looking for something Play around. Try different materials, Anchorage, AK. He is a lifelong Alaskan with a that has more body and motion to look sizes and colors. Flesh can be found in the passion for family, fly fishing and fly tying. Step 3: Wrap the rest of your egg yarn up to approximately a hook-eye width away from the hook eye and tie off. Cut the yarn, leaving approximately one inch of it extending forward past the hook eye.

Step 1: Tie in a four-inch section of glo bug yarn: leave approximately one-inch long for a tail.

Step 2: Take a plume of peach and a plume of cream marabou and tie in together by the tips. Step 4: Palmer or wrap the marabou plumes forward. The hook shank length will dictate whether you have to palmer it (leaving space between wraps) or wrap it forward with touching turns. This version, due to the shank length, is palmered so I could get all the way to the front of the hook shank. Tie off the marabou and cut off the excess material. Whip finish.

October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 21 Homer Marine Trades Association By Troy Buzalsky

The Aleut word “Kachemak” dates back to early times when smoldering coal burned on the bluffs and filled the bay with smoke, thus earning the title “Smokey Bay.” Kachemak Bay, discovered by Europeans more than 240 years ago by Vitus Bering, sits directly off Alaska’s Cook Inlet and is considered the gateway to Homer, Alaska—the­ “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World.” It also hosts the communities of Halibut Cove, Seldovia, Port Graham, Kachemak City and other settlements. It’s fair to say Kachemak Bay serves as the area’s lifeblood, rich in history, opulent in beauty, and bountiful in natural resources. It’s these attractions that fuel passion as well as the area’s industry, and it makes Kachemak Bay home to outdoor enthusiasts, families, and a uniquely intertwined business community. Homer is the largest city in Kachemak Bay, and sits at the end Alaskan boaters who operate out of Homer, Seward, Whittier of the Sterling Highway, literally the end of the road or “Land’s and Valdez can now enjoy peace of mind knowing SeaTow is End.” The Homer Spit is a 4 ½-mile-long piece of land jutting standing by 24/7/365 to provide them with on-water assistance. out into Kachemak Bay, and serves as home to the Homer Boat © Sea Tow Harbor. One look at the harbor and it becomes abundantly obvious why the Homer Marine Trades Association (HMTA) has the tag line, “Homer is in the Business of Boats.” Big boats, small boats, power boats, sail boats, wood boats, steel boats, aluminum boats, fiberglass boats, and a whole bunch of fishing boats . . . all kinds of boats make up the Homer boating community and its supportive industry. The Homer Marine Trades Association is a stand-alone, 501C6 business organization incorporated in 2011, and served as a sub-committee of the Homer Chamber of Commerce dating back to 1994. Association President Kate Mitchell explains, “Homer’s whole being revolves around our location on Kachemak Bay, Cook Inlet, and the Gulf of Alaska. Our maritime connection is everything.” The HMTA mission statement reads: “To cooperatively promote the marine trade businesses of Homer, to advocate for the Harbor improvements, to encourage vocational education, and to train the next generation for the jobs being grown from our marketing efforts.” With a mild climate, light rain, and light wind, Homer is Homer is the Halibut Capital of the World, and has a network of a great place to work on boats. It’s ice-free, protected harbor marine trades to bring your fishing and boating dreams to reality. features two fuel docks, plenty of transient mooring, a modern © Troy Buzalsky fish dock with eight public access cranes, and two marine grids that allow boats large and small to get below water-line work done. The Port and Harbor of Homer is the center of commerce for the region. Port Director and Harbormaster Bryan Hawkins shares, “For that reason we are committed to providing safe and economical port services to our commercial and recreational customers.” If you have ever traveled to Homer, the harbor is iconic in its own right. There are two deep-water docks that can accommodate vessels up to 800 feet, reserved and transient mooring slips for boats from 15- to 175 feet, and daily moorage of some 900- to 1000 boats as well as 150- to 200 daily boat launches and loads. Homer also has a launch and haul program for vessels up to 45 tons and a 75-ton Travelift system, as well as haul-out, launch, and work area for vessels and barges up to 2000 tons. “If you build it they will come” was the belief when the Homer Harbor was built, and they could not have predicted Kachemak Bay has a beauty that is authentically Alaska. the future any more accurately. With 100% occupancy, and © Troy Buzalsky a growing demand for harbor space and services, Homer has plans to expand the harbor to accommodate vessels from 86- to 250 feet. Hawkins explains, “The new harbor will take Homer where it needs to go and keep the work where it should be . . . locally in Homer.” Exactly what the HMTA and its members are all about. Over the past 40 years, Ulmer’s Drug & Hardware has been a go-to local resource for both the recreational and charter boating communities in lower Kachemak Bay. Here is a new deck configuration Founder Scott Ulmer, along with longtime Sloth Boats completed for a client. local anglers Mike Quinn and Steve They removed the middle fishhold Soistman have been providing world-class to create an equipment room fishing advice to go along with the store’s and then rearranged the rsw and wide variety of boating and fishing supplies. hydraulic system. © Sloth Boats Whether you’re looking for your first that live in and around Homer. downrigger, advice on feeder kings, or you’re Boat upholstery, marine canvas, and boat a seasoned charter operator looking for a deal tops are another example of an industry on 10 rods and reels, Ulmer’s is your place to Bay Weld Boats are a good example that supports the boating community, and be. And after a long day at sea, you’re sure of how it takes a village to build a in Homer, NOMAR (NOrthern MARine to find quick access to Advil and the like, so boat. © Troy Buzalsky. A beautiful Canvas Products) has you covered, literally. you are ready to do battle in the morning. Bay Weld Boat sits atop a Kokopelli Founder and matriarch of NOMAR, Kate Diversity is something the Homer Marine quad-axle trailer. © Kokopelli Trailers Mitchell and also President of HMTA explains, “In the early days there were lots Trades Association has in plenty. In Homer, of things around the water that needed to be the boating community designs boats, builds covered or upholstered . . . because I knew boats, fixes boats, brokers boats, finances how to run a sewing machine it was a niche boats, accessorizes boats, welds boats, paints I could fill. I taught myself how to do boat boats, powers boats, repairs boats, maintains canvas cushions and equipment covers.” boats, fuels boats, refrigerates boats, and even NOMAR has been proudly serving Homer shrink wraps boats for protective storage. since 1978. The harbor in Homer showcases some of The NOMAR product line includes the most practical, seaworthy, and versatile clothing, bags, fishing gear, and their custom sportfishing and charter boats in the area, upholstery shop. Need Alaskan wearables and Bay Weld Boats are well represented like base layers, jackets or vests? NOMAR has in this coveted fleet. Building boats since you covered. Need boat bags, gun scabbards, 1974, Bay Weld has a loyal following among and duffle or gear bags? NOMAR has you the commercial fishing industry as well as covered. Brailer Bags, slush bags, or long line with sport anglers, keeping the family-run gear? NOMAR has you covered. And what operation hopping around the clock. about seat cushions, boat tops, enclosures, Eric Engebretson, General Manager for equipment covers? Yep . . . NOMAR has Bay Weld Boats explains their relationship you covered. with HMTA: “We’ve reached a scale where Homer was once a single-minded boating For over 40 years Ulmer’s has been we’re competing internationally, and we can’t industry. “I remember asking a welder the go-to location for Homer boaters go out there and compete without the local working on a big boat how many jobs like and anglers, and boasts a very nice support . . . and the local talent.” Bay Weld this he had lined up for the winter?” He selection of area-specific fishing Boats is not just getting by, they’re thriving said ‘”What do you care?” Kate explained gear. © Ulmer’s Drug & Hardware with the relationships formed from the the client might need cushions, covers, HMTA. or upholstery work. “It took years to Sloth Boats is also a member of convince these businesses that we should HMTA. Their role in Homer is as a full- work together to promote the idea that if service shipyard that specializes in refit you bring that boat to Homer—you can get and repairs. They stay busy completing EVERYTHING you need done right here. stretches, repowers, composites, welding, We have the people who have the skills.” In joinery, painting, even refrigeration and other words, Homer has you covered! top houses. Their talented community of You’ve heard it once or twice: “Homer shipwrights perform these services for both is in the Business of Boats.” Homer and the recreational and the commercial fleet in its surrounding community insures boats, Homer. surveys boats, launches and hauls boats, Nomar has been supplying Homer Many boats are built from start to finish in stores boats, builds fish nets for boats, and with boat upholstery work for over 40 Homer, from stem to stern, from anchor to even buys, processes and freezes fish for the years in addition to making high- zinc, and they could not do it without all the fishing boats. quality gear like their all-weather help and support from the many suppliers, Homer—where the sea meets the land— scabbard and boat bags. © Nomar service providers, and craftsmen and women is that special place where any freight can be 24 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 25 shipped anywhere in the world by road, air or sea. Homer even has an airport for some quick design and welding, proving again the value that HMTA large enough to land a 737 and has scheduled freight service every day, and ferry brings to the boating community. service, too. Safety at sea is priority one for any captain worth his salt, and Sea Tow The Homer Boat Yard is much more than a boat yard, and is clearly an Southcentral Alaska, owned and operated by Captain Trey Hill of Homer, important piece of the Homer boating puzzle. The Homer Boat Yard offers dry Alaska, offers free and unlimited on-the-water assistance for his members. storage for up to 190 commercial slips, storing boats up to 39 feet. They can also Operating out of three Alaskan ports after opening service in January, store your car or RV. 2018 in Homer, Sea Tow offers towing, fuel drops, jump starting, prop un- But that’s just the beginning of the Homer Boat Yard. They can haul, launch, entanglement, and even un-grounding services, with just a simple phone and ferry your boat to and from the slip; they provide shrink-wrap services for call or radio hail. With captains on-call 24/7, and operating from a 26-foot short or long-term storage. They also provide bottom painting as well as full Boston Whaler, Sea Tow is a true emergent service provider, with a goal to and partial-hull painting. Need mechanical help? Homer Boat Yard provides leave the dock within 30 minutes of being called. Even in the big water of winterization services, minor engine repairs, steering maintenance, tune-ups, Kachemak Bay and Cook Inlet, Sea Tow has a round-trip range of 200 miles. electrical and plumbing work, welding, and trailer maintenance to boot. In fact, Captain Trey offers a huge shout-out to the HMTA: “Our ability as a Sea rumor has it, they’ll even replace your galley sink. Tow franchise allows us to partner and network which creates an effective We’ve said it once, and we’ll say it again, “Homer is in the Business of business and marketing platform.” An example cited is offering a free Boats.” They do glass, motors, electronics, safety equipment, and even offer membership to every newly-built Bay Weld boat. “This gets the word out to marine-technology classes. In fact, Homer High School partnered with Kenai the new boat owner, and also adds value not only to the owner, but to the Peninsula College’s Kachemak Bay Campus and embraced the Homer Marine boating and fishing community,” shares Captain Hill. Trades Association by offering educational programs to the students so they can With a name like the Kachemak Gear Shed, the first thing you would explore the many opportunities available right in Homer. A lot of the Homer expect is they have a little bit of everything . . . and that they do! As a division and Kachemak Bay kids know about fishing and the jobs associated with the of LFS Marine, the Kachemak Gear Shed serves both the wholesale and retail fishing industry but what they don’t know is all the support jobs in the marine communities of Homer, showcasing boating and marine supplies, cabin and industry. The welders, the bankers, the electricians, the upholsterers . galley hardware, clothing, rope and dock lines, safety equipment, sportfishing all those jobs that are vital to keep the boats in the fleet running, and it’s a huge accessories, and commercial fishing gear including crab and shrimp pots as connection between the College and the community. well as longline, gillnet, and seine net hardware. Lower Peninsula Power Sports is yet another member of the HMTA which “We are too small of a community to not support each other,” shares showcases the slogan “Homer is in the Business of Boats.” Although a dealer for John Ketelle. The HMTA is that gateway, connecting businesses for mutual Marlon skiffs and jon boats, most of Lower Peninsula Power Sports’ boating focus benefit. The Kachemak Gear Shed has many business partners where they Sea Tow provides on-the-water assistance which The Homer Boat Yard launches, loads, stores is repowering existing boats. They offer Yamaha and Tohatsu repowers up to 425 mutually participate in quid pro quo trade, like the relationship the Gear includes towing, jump starts, fuel drops, and and maintains much of the Homer fleet, year HP with configurations that include singles, twins, triples, and even quads, and Shed has with NOMAR; where they buy and sell to each other, taking ungroundings as part of an annual subscription ‘round. © Homer Boat Yard are guaranteed to increase performance and efficiency. And being members of the advantage of stock, availability, product access, and discounts . . . it’s truly service. © Captain Trey Hill HMTA, when the repower requires fabrication work it’s an easy call to HMTA a win-win! members like those listed in the directory under metalworks/fabricators/welders Boats and trailers go hand-in-hand, and Bruce Petska of Kokopelli Trailers The trailer is truly where the rubber hits the road, and Kokopelli Trailers has designed a very specific, all- aluminum trailer made for the rigors of Alaska boating. © Kokopelli Trailers

. . . to make sure it works year round,” and the people at the HMTA help bring these people, these businesses, and these industries together. “It’s a group of great people!” Proving again that ‘Homer is in the Business of Boats!’ The Homer Chamber of Commerce and The Homer Marine Trades Association work together cooperatively. Executive Director for the Chamber Debbie Speakman shares, “There are many facets which bring us together . . . When we support the HMTA we support the business community as a whole.” In Homer, the trades are starting to suffer what’s called “The graying of the fleet.” The Chamber feels strongly that working together to help support the trades and the programs that the HMTA has with Kenai Peninsula College is a great thing for Homer today as well as for the future of Homer. Two showcase events that the Chamber hosts are the Winter King Derby in March, The Kachemak Gear Shed has a little and the Jackpot Halibut Derby which bit of everything for the Kachemak runs mid-May through mid-September. Bay boater. © Kachemak Gear Shed Approximately 1000 anglers and more than 300 boats participate in the one-day Winter helps boaters get the correct trailer for their King Salmon Tournament, with cash and needs. “Rather than just picking a trailer prize awards totaling over $100,000. “The off the lot, each Kokopelli trailer is custom Winter King Salmon Tournament is also made for the boating client, making sure a strategic economic shot in the arm in the length, number of axles and placement, March, when everybody is getting hungry,” brakes, bunks and the like meet the boating explains Speakman. and trailering needs of the customer.” Homer is in the Business of Boats, and After spending the last 30 years in after learning more about these two fishing Alaska commercial fishing and owning a derbies I have already marked my calendar construction company, Bruce knows the for March 24th so I can experience Homer value of a great trailer, and how to assure in late winter and also take a swing at a the trailer will perform in Alaska’s harsh and winter king . . . For more information on the unforgiving environment. Kokopelli Trailers HMTA, its membership, and its ambitions are built from 100% aluminum and stainless go to: www.homermarinetrades.com. steel, and are mechanically connected, not welded, as welded aluminum trailers tend to fail at the welds. Just as boats and trailers go together, so Troy Buzalsky serves as the Boats columnist does the Homer Marine Trades Association for Fish Alaska magazine and also travels and the boating business community. Petska Alaska fishing, photographing, and writing explains, “Here in Homer, our boating about the adventures. He can be reached at community knows what makes Homer tick [email protected]. pound-for pound—of our five salmon hard, stubborn runners that refuse to say 50 feet of line under the sliding bobber, slower just so the flasher/dodger sways shock leader to compensate for a species. In Alaska chums average 10- die. Occasionally, a particularly devilish arm the herring with a pair of 2/0- side-to-side. Don’t let it roll. mouthful of teeth, and needle nose to 13 pounds, but have been verified chum will crash the surface but mostly 3/0 mooching hooks, use a sliding egg A yard behind the flasher/dodger, rig pliers. You don’t want your fingers reaching 32. Over the southern border they run and dog, then run some more. sinker for weight and squeeze on a small a small herring, bucktail coho fly, thin- anywhere near those canines. Chum For Fun in BC, a 42-pounder was taken at They’ll put a bend in any appropriately- split shot a foot or so above the herring blade spoon like a Coyote or Needlefish, If you’re feeling especially adventurous Story and photo by Edie Pass. matched rod and more than one angler for a sliding sinker stopper. Barrel swivel 2-inch green or pink hoochie or even and don’t mind a little blood on the Terry W. Sheely In salt or fresh water they’re bruisers; has been stunned to discover that the stoppers work too. Position the boat a a small wobbling plug—Kwikfish, fingers, bring a fly rod to the sport. powerful, bulldog strong and ugly ‘Chinook’ on steroids that they’ve been long lob-cast from the school, then free- Flatfish, Brad’s Super Bait or MagLip A 6-weight will get you beat up and enough to be macho attractive. In wahooing about turned into a chum at drift the bobber/herring at current speed 2.5. Select neon lime green to chartreuse, make you grin, then cry; an 8-weight I’m nowhere near brave enough to full-spawning regalia, a male sports a boat side. directly through the school. This also or some combination color that involves evens the odds. Spool a weight-forward argue that chum salmon should replace set of canine fangs that could humble We’ve got two runs of chums: summer works from a pier or vantage point on a lot of green or pink. Slather lures with intermediate or Type V sink tip line, 200 Chinook and silvers, especially on the a sled dog and has the attitude to go and fall, and those June and July fish are the bank. an attractant scent like Pro-Cure squid, yards of backing, add half a dozen feet table. But for a second consider that those with them. long gone by now, which leaves us with In estuaries, bobber and jig rigs are krill, shrimp or herring Super Gel to of 20-pound fluorocarbon leader and a two favorite dinner fish, especially kings, In saltwater they’re metallic blue and August-September surges and October- also extremely effective, especially if the cover up the human factor and troll box of non-fancy wet flies—chartreuse, are running thin in a lot of the state, and green chromers and as grillable as any November late comers. jig is tipped with a shrimp and fished dead slow. cerise, pink, purple, and white should if for nothing more than sheer fishing other salmon. But the closer they get to As this issue arrives in your mailbox about two feet off bottom. Proven color Unlike kings that tend to get dominate. fun maybe it’s time to give chums natal waters the faster they discolor. In most of the neighborhood chums north combos are: green, chartreuse/pink, temperamental and more close-mouthed Getting your fingers whacked by a another think. most watersheds they’re usually lower- of the panhandle will be spawning or cerise/purple, pink/purple. If green isn’t the closer they are to spawning, chums spinning reel handle, spun by one of the Consider what they have going— river spawners (a notable exception is dead already; in Southeast, they will working, switch across the spectrum to tend to get nastier and more aggressive. strongest, nastiest, salmon in the state— they’re big, tough, aggressive, and those inexplicable 2,000-mile Yukon be either in saltwater estuaries or a few hot pink or cerise or a combination of They aggravate quick, attack before well, that can become addictive. Even number in the dozens of millions. Last River migrants) and because of that miles upriver from salt. A few, a very few, the two. Combo colors often work when being provoked, and almost seem to if it’s a fish-fight, not dinner that’s on year the commercial haul of 25 million their meat rapidly redirects from prime, will still be milling about in saltwater, others fail. I don’t know why. These swagger. Like all salmon, however, there the table. was the largest since 1970 and about fat-laden muscle to spawning proteins, but in most areas boat fishing is done color schemes apply to lures or flies as are times when you can’t buy a bite, but half of those were caught in Southeast. swiftly softening and deteriorating for the season. well as jigs. there are other times when you can’t pay Where, incidentally, most king fishing past smoker-worthy—a factor that In Southeast, you may still have a In deeper water don’t be afraid to enough to keep chums from slamming was closed during run peaks to protect plays a huge role in maintaining our chance of finding a bright one for the troll. Late in the migration or en route whatever it is you’re offering. survivors of lethal ocean conditions, long-standing sportfishing prejudice smoker. Two ways to connect: troll dead to natal streams chum sometimes need Chums are bullies (especially males) food shortages, overharvesting, climate against them. slow, then go slower; or anchor up and convincing. This is where the old standby and bulldogs and if you’re ready for a Terry W. Sheely is a contributing changes, warm water and who knows In most rivers, with western Alaska drift a dyed-green herring half-a-dozen Hot Spot flasher or chrome dodger pays good fight they’re quick to oblige. Bring editor for Fish Alaska magazine and what else. streams being notable exceptions, by feet beneath a bobber. The bobberized off. A patch of green tape helps but a tailer or release net, steelhead rod, can be reached through his website at Chums, too, are fighting uphill but the time chums nose into spawning herring technique was developed in all-chrome works too. Troll slow, then 12-pound test line, add a 20-pound www. tnscommunications.net. by virtue of sheer numbers enhanced rivers they’re usually streaked, striped Puget Sound to entice reluctant chums by massive hatchery releases they have and blotched with purples, greens, and near spawning areas. And it works. been blowing through the shortages reds—just like a good bruiser should be. Target jumping chums or spot deeper with more than enough fish to fuel both And these fish are bruisers—fresh schools on the fishfinder. Depending on industrial and sport fishing. In Juneau, or salt water—they fight like bulldogs, what depth the fish are at, run six- to the prolific Macaulay Hatchery is permitted for 121 million chums annually that regularly produce sport catches upwards of 14,000. The monster Southern Southeast Regional Aquaculture Association (SSRAA) plants 139 million summer chums and 29 million fall dogs into six locations in Southeast to enhance sport and commercial catches. Those figures, only part of the hatchery effort, dwarf Chinook and coho counts and don’t include incalculable statewide wild runs. By any of their regional names—dog, keta, calico, silverbrite— chums are the second largest salmon in Alaska This saltwater chum exhibits many characteristic chum traits: huge pupil, narrow behind kings, and caudal peduncle, tipped anal and pelvic fins, mostly white lower jaw, and the arguably the nastiest— beginnings of color beneath the whitewashing. float tube, and the same general principles apply run again and I’ll have to chase it until I again get fly whether you’re fishing from a pontoon, a boat or line back onto the spool. Then I’ll spin around again If you don’t have a plan to chase big fish, fish like this a canoe. Once I’ve made the decision to chase, I to face the fish and try to work it to me. Chasing Rainbows often get off. Note the orange anchor line I let fall onto my stripping basket as I pulled anchor. pull anchor (if I’m anchored) and head directly The feeling of hooking a large, lake rainbow Story and photos by George Krumm to where my line is pointing. This might not be can best be described as out of control. Yet you This year was a great year for big fish, for me. I was fortunate directly at the fish, as the line might be hung on have control of what you do, and one of the most enough to hook many rainbows in the lower- to upper 20- a weed bed or log. I hold my rod high to keep important things you can do to land more of the inch range. Landing fish of this size in a lake on a five- or as much line out of the water as possible. This huge fish you hook in lakes is to be prepared to give six-weight fly rod can be challenging. It’s not that the gear reduces drag in the water which could cause chase in order to shorten the distance between you isn’t up to the task; rather, it’s the angler’s skill and experience the hook to pull out or the leader to break. It and that rampaging fish. Consider this while you’re that determine whether a big fish will come to hand. Lakes also slightly lessens the chance of the line being tying flies this winter, and perhaps look at it again seem rather featureless, but under the surface are hazards that wrapped around an obstruction between me and next April, just before the lakes open up. I’ll see you can easily result in situations where fish break off. Weed beds the fish. on the water next spring, Chasing Rainbows. and sometimes submerged woody structure are the primary In a float tube, it’s necessary to spin around to hazards. What’s more, big rainbows often run all your fly line chase the fish. I look over my shoulder frequently out and occasionally a significant amount of backing. The as I kick after the fish to make sure I’m headed in drag of all that line being pulled through the water often leads the right direction, and I wind in line quickly if to hooks pulling out. The solution to these challenges lies in the fish isn’t still running. I continue to chase and the angler’s equipment, situational awareness, and the ability wind until I get all the backing onto my reel spool. George Krumm is the editor of both Fish Alaska and to shorten the distance between the angler and the fish. I call Once I get a few wraps of fly line on the spool, I Hunt Alaska magazines. George is hosting a trip to it Chasing Rainbows. spin around and face the fish. I am usually able to Jurassic Lake Lodge—the ultimate rainbow trout fly fight the fish to the net once I’ve gotten the fly line fishing on the planet—in April 2020. If you’d like to Equipment and Situational Awareness back onto the spool, but occasionally, big fish will go, contact him at [email protected]. When I talk about equipment as it pertains to chasing big pontoon boat, but it can be done. fish, I’m referring to items that either increase your situational awareness or improve your ability to actually chase the fish. When to Chase Regarding situational awareness, I follow George Cook’s How far should you let a fish run before you chase? It depends Warning Track method of filling my reel with backing. This to a certain extent on the nature of the hazards in the water, how involves putting on 25 yards of 20-pound Dacron, followed big or strong the fish seems to be, and the strength of your tippet. by 75 yards of 50-pound super line (PowerPro or the like), If the weeds are tall, growing to nearly the surface of the water, followed by another 25 you may need to chase yards of Dacron. This sooner so the fish doesn’t gives you some clues This fish ran well into my get hopelessly mired up regarding how far away backing. By the time I in a weed bed. In more a running fish really is, landed it, I was more than open-water situations, which increases your 100 yards from where I my general rule is to note hooked the fish. situational awareness. when all the fly line has A second important left my reel. If the fish is equipment consideration still running strongly at is that to chase fish, you this point, I generally will have to move. If you’re start pursuing the fish. fishing anchored, you Sometimes, by the time need to be able to pull I’ve pulled anchor (if I’m anchor or disconnect fishing anchored) the fish from it before you can may have pulled out the chase. You’ll need to first 25 yards of Dacron. be able to do this one- handed. It is awkward How to Chase from a float tube or I fish primarily from a r J

g- Part I P It’s that time of year again when people across the country LeeLock Magnum Skeg www.leelock.com are hard at work figuring out what gifts to give their angling-crazed The LeeLock Magnum Skeg drastically friends and family. We put our heads together at Fish Alaska and talked to improves steering performance and straight- some of our clients to amass Part 1 of 2 of our annual Holiday Gift Guide. line travel of bow-mounted electric trolling motors. The use of bow-mounted, electric From boat accessories to apparel, tools for bear protection to gourmet food, trolling motors for salmon trolling is a game our editors have given you some items to consider as holiday gifts. changer. Not only does this skeg improve Stay tuned for Part 2 which will appear in the December issue. performance, it makes bow-mounted electric trolling motors much more efficient. Your batteries will run longer on a charge. The Fish Fighter Products Rod Risers LeeLock Magnum Skeg can be a vital part of www.fishfighterproducts.com your trolling-motor system. Fish Fighter Products Rod Risers were designed with the help of This oversized skeg is made of anodized their Pro Staffers and professional fishing guides to stagger rod 5052 aluminum. It is 9 inches high by 11 heights while trolling and widen your trolling spread. By inches wide by 3/16 inches thick. It comes using these rod risers, you extend your boat, which gives with PVC coated stainless-steel hose clamps. you more options as well as makes it easier to fish without The anodization keeps the aluminum getting your lines tangled. They have several options from corroding in fresh- and salt water. available. They’re made in the USA, and come with a 30- The LeeLock Magnum Skeg is available to day money back guarantee. fit most 24- and 36-volt Minn Kota and MotorGuide motors.

Skinner Sights BUSH PILOT www.skinnersights.com This kit includes an easy take down rifle in your choice of .44 Magnum or .45-70 Govt—the .44 has a 16-inch octagonal barrel and the .45-70 has an 18-inch octagonal barrel. The kit also includes premium survival items: a Brunton compass, Doan fire starter, Flare matches, Ontario Knife Company RAT 7 survival knife sporting the BUSH PILOT logo serial numbered to the carbine, 850 paracord, space blanket/shelter, Hexamine stove, and it all fits into the Skinner folding takedown case. Both models also include Skinner sights with fiber optic front sight. Oomingmak Qiviut Bracelets and Earrings www.qiviut.com These one-of-a-kind works of jewelry art incorporate the qiviut returned when there isn’t enough FisheWear Cosmo Coho Ensemble remaining for Oomingmak’s www.fishewear.com members to complete one of We know our audience loves FisheWear their artisan Alaskan heirloom so we wanted to bring you the latest and pieces like their smokerings and hats. The staff in the H Street greatest stylish Alaska pattern from these Oomingmak Musk Ox Producers retail store in downtown innovative designers. Introducing the Anchorage uses this returned qiviut and incorporates it into Cosmo Coho pattern. It’s available in multi-medium wearable art pieces like these earrings and leggings, neck tube or tote. Now you can bracelets. They are totally affordable Alaskan gifts for the pay homage to Alaska’s great silver salmon. holidays and feature the beautiful, natural Alaska textile, qiviut. FisheWear leggings are a favorite among Or, you can really treat your special someone with one of their the ladies here at Fish Alaska; they are fine, hand-crafted, 100% qiviut garments. Style, colors, and some of the most comfortable we’ve tried. stock will vary on these one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces. Contact They work great as a layering piece and we the store for current availability and follow them on Facebook. always get tons of compliments.

October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 35 gQLH Chest Holster www.quicklockholsters.com Want to make holidays amazing this year? Choose the QLH Chest Holster for your sweetie. A built-in elastic band means ultimate comfort without sacrificing the secure fit and tight draw. This chest-carry system is great for fishermen, hunters, hikers, cyclists, and Alaskans in general. We’ve been field testing one for the Annual Gear Guide and our tester really likes it. The chest sling is made with 2-inch military-grade nylon webbing and the holster is 100% Kydex. It is completely water-submersible and scratch-resistant. The holster can be detached from the chest harness so a different holster can be installed with the harness. The QLH Chest Holster is supported by a lifetime warranty and is available for many hand guns in several color options with both left- and right-hand-draw models. Go online to their website to learn what gun- model holsters are available. Alaska Balsamics Stonefly Studio River www.alaskabalsamics.com Map Fly Box Mmmmmm. The delicious Alaska Balsamic Vinegars from Valdez locals Rod www.stoneflystudio.com and Tristy Morrison make it to the top of Stonefly Studio is a the Alaska foodie list for this Christmas. small, family business A little bit goes a long way and just a based in Montana that drizzle of any of the Alaska Balsamics handcrafts, custom flavors to your seafood or game dinner is designs, personalizes, a beautiful enhancement. It’s essentially a and laser engraves gift for everyone and it’s totally Alaskan. heirloom-quality River You can order Alaska Balsamics from their Map Fly Boxes and ecommerce website or find them at stores other River Map products for the fly fishing and outdoor adventurer. Their signature like NonEssentials in Palmer. River Map Fly Boxes, plaques, cribbage boards, card boxes, stainless steel cold beer bottle holders, flasks, and water bottles all include your choice of river map, personal name and inscription, plus a choice of artwork. Stonefly Studio believes life should be personal and special memories preserved; their river map products were created with that belief in mind.

Salmon Sisters X Grundéns Maris Collaboration Top and Bottom www.salmonsisters.com The Salmon Sisters x Grundéns women’s Maris collaboration is an insulating midlayer set designed Knives of Alaska Custom Alpha Wolf to be worn under fishing bibs www.knivesofalaska.com and rain gear. The tried-and-true For the first time ever, Knives of Alaska is Maris Top is made for warmth and offering a Special Edition knife! You now all-day comfort at sea, complete have the opportunity to customize their with an anchor print on one arm popular Alpha Wolf by selecting the blade and a leather Salmon Sisters patch steel from either CPMS30V, D2 tool steel, on the other, and it doubles great or 440C stainless, and by selecting either for layering up on the river or a genuine stag or a G-10 inlay into the running around town. Both top unique carbon-fiber handle. This knife and bottom are made from 200g/m2 poly fleece with flatlock comfort stitching using is sure to be a collector's item and an a four-way stretch fabric. The high neck drop hood on the top is both functional and exceptional field knife. All their knives stylish. A moisture-wicking interior, thumb loop cuffs and zippered front pocket round are proudly made in the USA by skilled out the list of positives on the top. The pants, with their wide, elastic waist band, are super craftsmen dedicated to making the finest comfortable and are nice and warm under your Grundéns Sedona Bibs or waders. quality outdoorsman's knives.

Taking Great Catch-and- COMPANY Spotlight Release Photos Article and photo by Greg Brush Soldotna Hardware and Fishing is dedicated to king salmon Most anglers know how to take a good “hero shot” photo conservation on the prized of a fish headed to their grill or freezer. It’s relatively Kenai River. This retail store that easy, as the fish has already been subdued and isno purveys fishing and outdoor gear longer fighting for its life—take your time removing to the Kenai Peninsula is owned hats and sunglasses, put the sun to the photographer’s by brothers Scott and Brian Miller who live and recreate back and center the subject prior to saying, “Cheese!” Wet your hands before touching a live with their families in the area. While the previously mentioned photo tips still fish then firmly grip the fish just above the apply, a lot changes when a conservation-minded angler It’s just as important to them to tail with one hand and support the fish’s intends to take a quick photo prior to releasing his or preserve the future of fishing for belly with the other. Lift the fish to the their children and grand kids as her catch. it is for their own sake. Soldotna Particular emphasis should be placed on the word water’s edge for a short moment, snap Hardware and Fishing features “quick” here, as the proverbial clock is ticking when the photo and resubmerge the fish. the largest selection of G.Loomis practicing proper catch-and-release. The more the fish rods in Alaska. Stop by and talk is handled and the longer the photo session becomes, quality photo. The key here is working efficiently with them about G.Loomis rods while having good communication between and other conservation-minded the more stressed the fish will be, lessening its chance items for all your fishing needs. of survival. For this reason, having a good plan prior photographer and angler. The angler’s job is to to ever wetting a line is very important. If everyone keep the fish in the water, breathing well and knows their role and what to do, the “team” can operate recuperating after a hard fight. The photographer’s much more efficiently, keeping the welfare of the fish as job is to quickly get into proper position for a a clear priority over the perfect photo. After all, if you quality picture or two, all the while talking so that are going to practice ethical catch-and-release, the fish both parties work as a well-oiled team. simply must come first. Once the photographer claims, “Got it!” then So, what details should be addressed when the conscientious angler should immediately formulating a plan? re-immerse the fish in the water, supporting its First, anglers should wet their hands before touching weight with its head facing into the current so any live fish. Always keep fingers out of the vascular as water passes through the fish’s gills, providing This message brought to you by gill area. And never hold a live fish vertically from much-needed oxygen to the tired fish. This is Soldotna Hardware and Fishing, the tail, as it can pop vertebrae and cause spinal cord done until the fish can take off under its own G•Loomis and Fish For The damage and even internal bleeding along the backbone. power. More often than not, a fish handled in Future. For more information about Soldotna Hardware Instead, firmly grip the narrow portion in front of the this manner suddenly explodes from the angler’s and Fishing, visit www. tail (the caudal peduncle) with one hand while gently hands; proof positive that it probably survived the soldotnahardware.com. To learn supporting the fish’s weight by placing the other hand ordeal in good shape. more about non-divisive, wild under the belly. Be sure to instruct everyone that they In this way, you can be confident that you have king salmon conservation, visit must keep the fish in the water. This means that the done everything possible to get a good photo as well www. fishforthefuture.net. angler and possibly the photographer will be in the as protect the resource, ensuring fish for the future. water, so both should be dressed for this. Bringing a flailing fish into a boat or onto the shore priorto release is a bad idea because fish don’t breathe air, and the possibility of causing trauma increases if the fish is The author is a long-time Kenai and Kasilof River out of the water. Plus, it’s often illegal to take fish you guide from Soldotna, Alaska, who cares deeply about intend to release out of the water. conservation of big, wild king salmon. Whenever When the photographer is in position, focused and possible, he practices and promotes proper catch-and- ready, lift the supported fish to the water’s surface release of these special fish, so that others can also for a second or two . . . only long enough to snap a enjoy fish for the future.

40 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 al Acce That all changed when a good buddy on my bowling ot ss team decided to move out of state. He asked if I wanted T : to buy his beloved canoe along with a two-horse motor, two paddles, and two life jackets for $200. At that price, the offer was impossible to resist. After securing a few loose screws, adding two can holders, and applying some duct tape to a five-inch crack in the hull, it was good to go.

The Grayling Expedition My first outing with the canoe was on a gorgeous, sunny day in early August, 2017. It was on a lake in which I’d fished many times in the past, but always at access points along the How highway. Rumor had it that there was a short portage a couple of miles away that held large quantities of grayling and lake trout. Armed with this knowledge, I brought along a my buddy Eitan, who claimed to be a fishing jinx. We all know a person like Eitan. This is the guy that not only fails to get a bite, but somehow jinxes everyone else who happens to be unlucky enough to fish within his proximity. My grandfather used to call this person the “black cat.” I’d fished with Eitan before, and his unwavering claims of universal angling ineptitude were indisputable. Putting superstition aside, we launched the canoe into still, clear water. It was so calm, Secondhand we decided to forego the motor and fully enjoy the peaceful silence. Thousands of years ago, glaciers carved the landscape that would become this alpine lake. We rowed through narrow channels framed by lichen-covered, rounded rock shoulders almost 100 feet high. Canoe Pink and white wildflowers grew from crags along the shoreline, and in the distance, remnant glaciers glistened from the mountaintops in the yellow morning light. We approached the portage cautiously to prevent spooking the resident fish. Water was flowing away from us into a short pool of rapids before dropping a few feet into the next Can lake. After maneuvering away from moving water, we began casting small Mepps spinners perpendicular to the rapids. Change With my polarized prescription sunglasses, I could see no less than 30 grayling chasing Your Life Canoe + Fish = Smiles.

Story & photos by andrew cremata Sky-blue damselflies hovered in midair near the shoreline where my fishing rods were leaning against a small aspen. Out over the water, smaller insects glinted beneath rays of yellow sunlight streaming down from a blue backlit morning sky. Arctic terns chirped to one another as they twirled in flight to feast on the bounty of flies and mosquitoes. My percolator started to gurgle as I watched a large dragonfly gently rest on the water beneath the melee of birds and bugs. Suddenly, a large fish launched Calm lake. Bright skyward from below, like a torpedo shot from some sun. Canoe ready unseen submarine running on silent engines, and to launch. Is there a million molecules of water seemed to scatter into anything better? random orbits. The dragonfly disappeared. All that remained was a series of small wakes undulating outward in concentric circles. I glanced over at my green canoe sitting on the shore and contemplated how much my life had changed since it came into my possession a little less than a year ago. It’s a 20-foot Coleman canoe, outfitted with a small outboard motor. For 21 of my 22 years in Alaska, I spent my fishing time working shorelines, bridges, rivers, and streams, but never yearned for the hassles of boat ownership. my lure. It seemed as though these fish had lakes. Surely the fishing from the canoe into the net first and then swooped up time until one particularly hungry slough been starved for weeks and were suddenly wouldn’t always be so exceptional. Dustin’s fish in one single motion. Both were shark somehow managed to hook itself. presented with a tabletop feast. They thick, 35-inch northerns. We used barbless About 30 yards of line peeled out from the attacked the spinner as a single unit, like a The pen is mightier than the pike hooks, so it didn’t take long to get our spoons reel before it began making an unhealthy school of piranha converging on a bloody Two weeks later I took a more seasoned back in the water. Same result. clicking sound. Then it started to jostle in T-bone steak. angler-friend named Dustin along to target Each drift produced unlimited quantities the reel seat, and I was sure it was going to While Eitan cast and retrieved over and pike in a nearby river. Our original plan was of pike. My buddy Dustin, who has been come loose. over again without feeling a bite, I caught to fish in a different spot, but high winds lucky enough to fish in some of the most Fortunately, the pike decided to run down four grayling on four casts. He leered in forced us to shift gears and seek out calmer, productive Southeast waters said, “This is into the weeds, most likely because it had no my direction and said, “See. I told you I leeward waters. Shore fishing for pike has some of the most fun I’ve ever had fishing in idea that it was hooked into the mighty pen wouldn’t catch anything.” always been challenging because the best Alaska.” It was then I remembered something fishing rod. This error in judgment afforded “Maybe it’s time you learned the art of fly habitats accessible by foot often get a lot of special in my tackle bag. me time to tighten up the reel seat with fishing,” I countered. pressure. I hoped the canoe would solve this The previous Christmas, my wife Brittney my multi-tool and move the canoe directly At my insistence, Eitan handed me his problem. gifted me a novelty fishing rod she saw on a overhead of the location of the pike. Using fishing rod. I attached a torpedo bobber to Neither of us were in the mood to paddle, Facebook ad. It’s called the Pen Fishing Rod, the minuscule amount of leverage possible his line and tied on a small brown fly. so we cranked up the motor and scanned the and it’s appropriately named because it’s a with the wispy rod, I horsed on the fish until “What’s this?” he asked. river for shallow creek mouths where pike telescoping fishing rod no larger than your it was irritated enough to swim away. “Just cast it out there,” I said. “Now you’re like to hide. The first spot we tried seemed average ink pen. When extended, it’s about 3 “Click click click click click . . .” sang the a fly fisherman.” promising, but an hour of casting yielded feet long and comes with a tiny reel equipped damaged reel, as the pike took off on another When the bobber hit the surface, the only one small pike. with 40 yards of two-pound monofilament high-speed run. This may not have been the water boiled with grayling trying to devour The next inlet featured a steep ledge line. Surrounded by sizable, ravenous pike smartest pike I’ve ever encountered, because A productive morning on the lake. it. Eitan was unsure what to do, but it didn’t where a shallow creek flowed into the river. willing to inhale lures on every cast, it was it ran toward the creek mouth instead of the matter because one of the fish hooked itself We couldn’t let our Eppinger Daredevle time to put it to the test. river. This distinction is important because approached 36 inches, making it one of the months, there was ample time to plan for the despite his best efforts to remain the black spoons sink too deep because of the thick After extending the rod, attaching the the creek cut off the run with only a few largest of the outing. Much to our surprise, upcoming season’s canoe-related activities. cat. He somehow managed to land the first grass growing on the bottom, so we drifted comically small reel, and setting a forgiving yards of line left on the spool. the pen fishing rod prevailed. laker of the day, a nice 18-inch fish that put over the ledge, carefully avoiding the weeds. drag, I tied on one of the largest spoons in Dustin was cheering me on, thoroughly When the fishing is good enough to Too many trout up a tough fight on our ultralight gear. As the canoe floated toward the middle of my tackle bag. Casting the ridiculous rig was entertained. As the pike slowed, I tightened justify using novelty gear, something special I’ve spent a lot of time perfecting various This went on for some time until we the outlet, my gaze slowly turned upwards impossible, so I simply released it over the the drag, which caused the canoe to turn is afoot. Yet again, the canoe distilled a techniques for catching lake trout from limited out on trout and grayling. Even toward two golden eagles in an aerobatic side of the canoe and jigged just above the toward the creek. There would be no room fishing trip into unbridled fun. During the shore. Trout behavior varies from lake to Eitan caught as many fish as the law allowed. display. That’s when chaos ensued. weed line. for error, so Dustin readied the net while I fall months, windy days prevented using lake, so what works in one body of water It all seemed so easy. To catch a limit of fish, The bites came split-seconds apart. Drags The spoon did its job as pike repeatedly palmed the spool and lifted the fish toward the canoe, so I spent my time catching large may not work in another. It took many years I usually work miles of shoreline or move started singing, rods were bending, and nailed it, but the rod was simply too flimsy the canoe. Dustin’s effort was flawless and trout along remote northern shorelines until walking shorelines on the highway-side of around to various spots on a few different beverages were spilling. I brought my pike for a solid hook-set. This went on for some the pike rolled into the net. The big northern winter settled in. During those long, dark these lakes to figure this out. As a result, I retrieve for long intervals to initiate a bite. camp filled with decrepit wooden boats Some days I can see multiple trout following and old rusted engines that had been silent my lure, and sometimes they even take a few for decades. gentle pecks at it, but solid bites are few and As the sun began to set, we began the far between. In other words, these lake trout ride back to camp. The glassy waters of are skittish. the glacial lake perfectly reflected the coral On our first outing of the season back clouds above and the pink alpenglow that in May, Brittney and I camped along this glazed the highest mountain peaks. The favorite shoreline. We woke to high winds, canoe effortlessly glided across the lake with but by mid-afternoon the lake was calm and our trout nestled safely in the bow. It was one the canoe was calling. We motored up and of those moments in life where the beauty down the shoreline, trying some familiar etches a groove somewhere deep inside your spots along the way, but the trout weren’t being, and you wonder if anything could biting. We decided to cruise to the opposite ever be better. side of the lake about two miles away, hopeful I didn’t have to wonder too long, because that the wind would stay down. two weeks later, the fishing got even better. With the 2hp motor on calm water, it only took 10 minutes to make the two-mile One lucky lure crossing. It was so still that we both heard When the dragonfly disappeared from the the sound of rushing water emanating from surface of the water on that calm summer the precipitous mountainside. Convinced morning, I already had an idea who to there was a creek outflow nearby, we cruised blame. The small, shallow lake was full of south until we found it. I cast a small orange bright green vegetation, the perfect habitat and silver spoon behind the canoe, fully for northern pike. As the terns chirped and Every now and then the author prepared for my patented slow retrieve, but fed, a kingfisher darted from overhanging catches a fish. the hit came well before the lure reached tree branches to collect small minnows from have numerous spots on a number of lakes the bottom. the surface. situated along the highway where I catch I reeled in a 22-inch trout. The next cast After finishing my coffee, Brittney and I fish. Most of the time, success requires a lot produced one slightly bigger. Then I lost a loaded up the gear and launched the canoe of effort. couple of fish before catching two more under perfect skies. A few minutes later, we One of my favorite springtime holes for on subsequent casts. This is when I started were slowly rowing over the location where lakers is on a massive, isotropic glacial lake silently asking questions. the unlucky dragonfly met its demise. We near the outflow of a small creek. In early Did I just happen to hit this spot at the trolled a green, diving crankbait that was spring there are few minnows in the lake exact moment the bite was on? Did trout on securely fastened to the line with 18-inches and it’s still too cold for insects, which is the opposite side of the lake always bite like of wire leader. To catch pike, wire leader is a why fish travel in small schools to forage for they hadn’t eaten in days, or were they really necessity, because their razor-sharp teeth will bottom-dwelling brine shrimp and nymphs. dumb? Could the lack of fishing pressure quickly slice through anything else. Sometimes the hungry trout push their noses have anything to do with it? Why didn’t I The first bite of the day came within under rocks to force them over, revealing bring more beer? minutes. The fish made a long initial run, whatever may be hiding underneath. The latter question was especially but I quickly began making up ground. That Catching these trout has always been an pertinent because we limited out in less than ground was lost when it swiftly turned and exercise in patience. Lures must be presented 15 minutes. Rather than injure precious peeled out 30 yards of line in one short burst. in a way that mimics these bottom-dwelling trout for no reason, we beached the canoe I put extra pressure on the pike, pulling the critters, and through trial and error I’ve and went for a short hike. Along the way, we rod-tip upward with one steady motion. discovered it’s often necessary to pause the stumbled into an abandoned gold mining Without warning, the rod jerked forward Left: Eitan perfects the art of fly fishing and proves he’s not Right: Brittney reels in one of many northern pike. a black cat. in manic spasms as the fish regained the Still nothing. Lastly I tied on a Zara Spook putting both fish in the cooler, I wrapped the advantage with one surging run toward the which is an unfortunately named plug wire firmly around the hook so it wouldn’t bottom. Then the whole situation fell apart that mimics nothing found in nature, but accidentally twist free. and the rod went limp. requires a specialized retrieve called “walking I spent the rest of the afternoon catching I was unsure what happened because it the dog” that makes my arm cramp up after large pike on my makeshift topwater was obvious the entire lure was gone. After three or four casts. Same result. crankbait. Some of them surged toward the reeling in the slack line my suspicions were Meanwhile, my wife landed a few cooler- lure from behind and engulfed it with a flip confirmed. Somewhere above the 18-inches worthy pike, and was starting to gloat about of the tail. Others jumped completely out of of wire leader, the pike’s teeth had grazed the her choice to use a spoon. Fully abandoning the water and crashed back into the crankbait line. With a massive mouth capable of such the topwater plug concept, I rigged up my as they fell back to the surface. Sometimes a feat, there was little doubt that the one that long-lost green crankbait and made a few the pike hit the lure so hard that they missed got away was a true lunker. casts before something went wrong. it entirely, scattering countless water droplets Bummed that one of my best pike lures It’s important to explain how this into the sunlit air. was out of circulation, I re-rigged with a particular crankbait is designed to function. Big pike have big mouths, which After limiting out, we relaxed in the diving plug and started trolling once again. sometimes leads to severed line The floating lure has a lip that makes it dive canoe sipping cold beer and enjoying the The bite was on, and Brittney and I took above the wire leader. below the surface as the angler reels. This remoteness of such a remote space. A large turns reeling in pike after pike ranging from action mimics the swimming motion of a bull moose stumbled out of the woods and 24 inches to 31 inches, the largest of which canoe twice to access a remote section of fat minnow attempting an escape to deeper walked into the grassy, shallow edge of the migrated swiftly into our cooler. The fast the lake. The purpose of the move was to water. Beads are inserted into the plug’s body lake. We silently watched as it fed, dropping action made me all but forget losing the catch voracious pike using topwater plugs in cavity by the manufacturer, causing it to its head entirely below the surface. When it lunker pike and green lure, when Brittney seldom-fished waters. Much like the unlucky make a rattling sound. This combination of reemerged, water cascaded from its antlers suddenly pointed toward the water and said, dragonfly, topwater plugs motivate predatory attractants works on a variety of fish, whether as it slowly chewed. We sat in awe of the “Is that your lure?” fish to attack from below. The efficiency of they predate by sight, sound, or motion. spectacle, as often happens when you spend I turned and caught sight of the crankbait this angling technique is irrelevant, because As I began reeling in my crankbait, as it gently floated to surface and began watching a large pike leap from the water to instead of diving and swimming as intended, bobbing in the shallow wake of the canoe. It terrorize its prey is rewarding whether the it wobbled in distended circles about two took only a few seconds to row alongside and fish ends up in the canoe or not. inches below the surface. This meant that pluck it out of the lake. The monofilament First I tried my Hula Popper, a noisy one of the hooks had become tangled in leader was cleanly sliced about an inch above little fantail plug designed to mimic a very the wire leader, presumably rendering the the wire, once again confirming my earlier irresponsible frog. Nothing. Next I tried plug ineffective. This is a relatively common suspicions that the culprit was a large, toothy an Arbogast Jitterbug, a stubby lure that occurrence with all sorts of lures, but there’s slough shark. wiggles along the surface like a deranged nothing that can be done to resolve the After an afternoon nap, we portaged the hummingbird with motor control issues. problem until it’s reeled in and the hook is cleared from the leader. When the disabled crankbait was about halfway in, Brittney hooked into another pike. I could tell it was a large fish, perhaps the biggest of the day, so I set my rod down to help. While I grabbed the net and carefully swooped up the big pike, my crankbait floated to the surface and sat there for about 10 seconds. Much like the hapless dragonfly from earlier in the day, my lure was suddenly engulfed by a massive, ill-tempered, hungry pike with little regard for table manners. I A blue damselfly contemplates its quickly grabbed up my fishing rod and set place in the universe. the hook. After landing my own big pike and time in Alaska’s grand outdoors. The moose eventually walked back into the woods, so we cranked up the motor and returned to camp. There are a lot of things I could say about fishing from a canoe, but I think my wife said it best later that evening as we sat by the campfire. “Fishing from a canoe is fun because you’re always catching fish!”

Andrew Cremata was named 2017 Best Sports Columnists in the state by the Alaska Press Club. His book, Fish This! An Alaskan Story is available from Lynn Canal Publishing and amazon.com. In his spare time, Andrew enjoys My makeshift sub-surface crankbait— fishing, hiking, and more recently, canoeing. proven effective. His dog, Rufus, is a very good boy. Yes he is. I would rather have rain over wind anytime, especially when you have to cross a lake that is 75 miles long, 20 miles wide and not very deep. I dread the crossing every time, knowing that a lot of fishermen have met their doom there or at least required services from search and rescue. Boating across the infamous Kobuk Lake with marginal wind, however, is part of the deal, especially if you want to find good fishing upriver or at least a variety of it in places where many do not dare to go. As we prepared to cross we knew the wind was “iffy” at best and could see the white caps in the distance, but we were committed now and went anyway. Lew and I had planned this trip up river for weeks, all year actually. Our annual Arctic fishing adventure up the Kobuk River has been one of our favorites and has produced some of the best fishing we’ve experienced in all our years living up here. Such a variety of fish, with nonstop action from the first cast has kept us coming Story & Photos by back year after year. It’s truly incredible! Getting there does take time in a boat and flying has Paul D. Atkins been an option in the past. But being able to navigate certain rivers and drainages with a boat has given us an advantage in finding the better channels with higher numbers of fish. If one spot doesn’t produce, we basically can pack up and move. It also allows us to motor up and then float down, anchoring in some of the better spots. Rafting does the same, but not as manageably as a boat. As usual, we scheduled the four days allotted for this trip around the opening of hunting season—a good combination when spending time up river in the

What we really came for were sheefish and even though we didn’t catch our normal quota, we weren’t disappointed. These big, silver fish are abundant in certain areas of the river and finding the right location is key. Sheefish are very aggressive towards the lure and one of the finest-eating fish in the Arctic.

Chums are sometimes called “dog salmon” due to the male’s teeth arrangement. Though generally not highly regarded as food fish when near the spawning grounds, they can be very aggressive, put up an incredible fight and are fun to catch.

50 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 For us, over the years pink seems to be the go-to color. Anything that Arctic. Fish during the day and hunt the resembles a brightly-colored egg will do the trick. We’ve had the most luck mornings and evenings, while relaxing in with Blue Fox’s pink Pixee. Kodiak Custom spinners, with and without skirts, camp. Many would pay a lot for a trip are also a good choice. like this, something you can do here in the far north. There are several rivers that flow into the bigger Kobuk River. Two of those Here is the first fish I landed, rivers, the Salmon and the Hunt, are a on my first cast of the trip. This little spot at the mouth couple examples that Lew and I try and of a tributary was awesome fish every year. They are filled with early and produced fish after fish. chums that have made the long journey north and are preparing to spawn. Besides chum come sheefish that tend to hang out in the same pools feeding off the eggs that the chum produce. Whitefish are there too, plus grayling and off in the dark water you can catch pike. It is this kind of variety that makes it so much fun, kind of a super slam of fishing here in the Arctic. Our first stop and what ended up being our camping spot, was a large, gravel bank at the mouth of the Salmon River. Chum salmon were abundant there and could be seen covering the bottom, dashing here and there to avoid the boat. We decided to stop and give it a go. Immediately, we were into fish and the fight was on. Now, chum salmon are not highly thought of by most people. Though these “dogs” are less desirable as food fish than other salmon, what people don’t realize is that they sure are fun to catch. They put up a fight like no other and the action is nonstop if you get into a bunch of them. Chum salmon are strong fighters that like to jump, run and are aggressive towards a variety of lures. Over the years we’ve tried a lot of different tackle, having been successful with much of it. However, we’ve had the most luck Whitefish were with spoons, usually pink in color, with hitting the smaller Blue Fox’s pink Pixee with egg sac insert lures like crazy. Fast being our favorite. sinking, small spoons Chums will usually strike the lure due There’s nothing better at the end of the day than did the trick, both to proximity versus hunger; it makes to catch the last fish, fillet it, and turn it into a while jigging and delicacy for an evening meal. trolling. them mad. I’ve found that wading in downstream and then casting upstream and letting the lure work its way down into a group provides the best chance at hooking into one of these monsters. There were times on this trip that every cast produced a fish and even though we caught many, we released most of those fish. Catch-and-release is always delicate, but chums are hardy and unless you hook one deep they usually survive the ordeal. Chums are sometimes called “dog salmon” due to the fact that spawning Pike are another males have exaggerated teeth. Many favorite when it comes to fishing this area. There people outside the Arctic won’t eat are many narrow, concealed chums, but they are an important part of sloughs that veer off the wider the food chain up here and I find them river where these snake-like fish great eating, especially at the end of the roam. Hungry for anything, the day over an open fire at camp. Johnson Silver Minnow did the trick.

52 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 Lew and I caught our fill of chums each We didn’t catch many, but the ones we snake-like fish hit frequently and with day. The action was incredible and the did catch were healthy and fun to land reckless abandon. Pike are great eating number of fish we landed was a record from the boat, something that we had and fun to catch but be prepared to get for us, but for some reason we didn’t previously only done from the shore. Late a few scrapes and scars if you don’t have hook what we really came for, which was July is usually the best time if sheefish are the right gear. Gloves help, but most sheefish. The narrow strip of clearer water on your list and we’ve found that in some importantly make sure you have a set of that lined the creek mouth that we were areas of this river they are more prevalent long-nose pliers to battle those teeth! fishing didn’t produce one single “tarpon than others, especially where the current Our fishing adventure finally came to of the north,” though it did in past years. is swift. There have been times on an end, but not without excitement the Figuring they may be in deeper water, previous trips that the ratio of sheefish to last day. Bears in camp are never fun, and we decided to motor upriver from camp chums was reversed and we caught more believe me, they will wake you up even if and fish the main channel of the Kobuk. than we could count, but not this time. you’re in a dead sleep. No harm was done Good choice! We found a small eddy, Sheefish were few and far between, but and even though it was opening day, we anchored up and had fish on before we we did land a couple of nice ones. We also let him pass. We had caught our fill of fish knew it. landed a few whitefish, which are smaller and experienced the Arctic as it should Sheefish, or Inconnu, are native to and less aggressive than their bigger be, on a river where few go, where the these streams and we love to catch them cousins. Small casting spoons, such as fishing is incredible. Just make sure you through the ice in late winter and early Krocodiles made by Luhr Jensen, were an are prepared to cross unfamiliar waters to spring when they make their way south. excellent choice for hooking these small get there, bring aluminum foil and a few Sheefish are not fighters like chums are, fighters. Whether trolling or jigging, spices and have plenty of bug dope! but they are aggressive and love to feed on Krocodiles worked great! chum eggs during the spawn. These big, We also took some time to venture white-silver fish that resemble tarpon are off the river into some of the smaller Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author good eating and next to halibut, are my drainages where the black water flows. from Kotzebue, Alaska. He has written favorite. The cool thing is we didn’t have These small creeks are ideal for catching hundreds of articles on big game hunting to change tackle. Sheefish love the pink pike, but out of the wind, be prepared and fishing throughout North America and Pixee same as chums and will often strike to gather a few more mosquito bites. We Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. Paul is almost immediately when the spoon hits did both. Using steel leaders with a mid- a longtime contributor to Hunt Alaska and the water. weight Johnson Silver Minnow, these Fish Alaska magazines.

Not our biggest fish, but we caught plenty and doubled up on these for the photo. My good friend Lew Pagel and I have been coming up for years and it has never disappointed us.

54 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 Story and photos by Terry W. Sheely in the tailout, water clear as good gin, pea- gravel without snags. I dig out the fly box, paw In my hand is The One lure every freshwater through the Skunks and Comets, look over the angler in Alaska needs—be they unrepentant Hiltons and Sunrises,Mountains, consider glaciers, the Bunnies, fjords, spinner, virtuous fly fanatic or meat-in-the- fight off theSitka temptation spruce of and a Coloradosilvers. Whatspinner boat troller—and this lure is a fly; a soft-bodied, blade, and tie onmore an ESL,could purple—again. you ask for? hackle-woven, weight-wrapped, orange-, pink- I curse my weakness, my addiction on the or red-headed streamer. warm-up casts, pledge to break the habit on The ubiquitous Egg Sucking Leech. the forward cast, and then cave when the If Alaska had a state fly it would be the ESL, rod doubles over and half-a-dozen pounds a signature streamer that works just as well off of something gorgeous flies out of the water. a spinning rod as a fly stick, and seems almost Always the same. irresistible to both land-locked gamefish like My uneasy devotion to the purple egg trout, grayling and char, and anadromous sucking leech, a streamer fly pattern of upriver migrants; silvers, pinks, chums, Dollies, somewhat ill-repute, started innocently. A cutthroat. I’ve even caught river-running king Dolly here, a silver there, a pair of bright salmon on the ESL. chums, then a trainload of rainbows, couple Three solid rows of ESLs are lined out across of northern pike, several big grayling, more the white foam in my box of wet flies and salmon and char and I was hooked. Was there another cluster—this one a mix of trout and nothing it wouldn’t catch! salmon sizes and colors—bides down-time in Now, I want to break off the relationship. an old plastic medicine bottle on the second I need to plunge into diversity and rescue my shelf of the all-purpose box of conventional accumulation of colorful ties and too-long Every fish in Alaska will tackle. Add three- or four split shot a couple of ignored feathers, but I’m addicted to success, whack an ESL, like this feet above, load it onto a spinning rod, and the too gutless to risk failure and so I continue rainbow did. thing will cast a mile or troll the thermocline. upstream, packing my fix of purple marabous, Except for hook-size variations and a couple looking for a dark, quiet place where salmon of experimental body colors, each of my ESLs is and steelhead, trout and Dolly Varden play nearly identical, or as close as I can tie these days. innocently. A Mustad 9672, long-shanked streamer hook, Beyond doubt, the ESL is the one fly/lure purple chenille body, purple marabou tail, that every fisherman in Alaska needs in his/her purple saddle hackle (palmered), shockingly freshwater tackle box and for just one reason: orange-red head, and enough .035 weight It works. wraps to kiss the pea-gravel at the bottom of a Where the ESL originated is a bit of a silver salmon stream. mystery with an Anchorage twist. Fly historian There are other body colors; black is popular, Don Roberts has chased the origins across the green, white sometimes works, blue is okay— country and now admits, “It’s almost impossible but purple is perfect. to pin down any one originator of the Purple Don Roberts, author, fish writer, historian, Egg Sucking Leech. Too many hot shot fly tiers consummate fly fisher, respected steelhead were pumping out their versions/variations of guru, thinker and friend thinks the ESL should the ESL at right around the same time. be killed. “The purple ESL has proven so “It’s pretty much indisputable that Russell freaking effective the danged thing should be Blessing of Pennsylvania, in the early 1970s, banned,” he thunders (quietly), then confesses, devised the first Woolly Bugger, aka leech “I like the purple and lime version, myself.” pattern.” When the Woolly Bugger, itself a And that is the conundrum. The purple egg- celebrated producer of gamefish, came to sucking leech is so productive it makes newbies Alaska, Anchorage’s Will Bauer of McBauer’s boast like pros, so predictably irresistible it Fly Shop fame, took a look at the black bugger, removes the blessing of unravelling a frustrating and in a stroke of inspired genius envisioned challenge and so addictive, so damned it with a bright orange chenille head—the addictive, that I can’t leave it alone. perfect imitation of a leech sucking down a Silvers, chums and nasty, fast Dolly Varden salmon egg.

56 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 enhances the dart and dive movement Guides and clients both love The purple version of that feeding trout, char and grayling ESLs. They’re easy to tie and the ESL is the author’s look for. catch almost everything. all-time favorite. I rarely and never by preference, troll with strings of attractor blades, pop gear, or cowbells, but I can’t imagine that a big lake rainbow or char attracted by the flash and vibration could pass up a PESL trailing just a wee bit behind on a foot or so of fluorocarbon leader. With a fly rod on streams the cast is basic. Across and slightly downstream, let the fly sink while the current catches and swings the fly. Mend once. At the bottom of the swing hold the streamer directly Fly-writer Jason Aki described Bauer’s experimental ESL outings as Such overthinking was dangerous and luckily I downstream until it scratches gravel, “devastating.” Bauer, who died in 2015, found that this new fly had pulled out of it with my rows of PESLs intact. After all, then retrieve 10- to 20 feet in slow, the ability “to stir even the most lethargic fish,” and prophesized that it that logic came from an over-thinking fishing brain, smooth strips before picking up and would work beyond reason from “Alaska to Mexico.” And Bauer would and it’s the pea-size keeper of instinct between a fish’s recasting. know. After selling his share of McBauer’s he headed south to sun and eyes that provides the drive that says ignore the wacky In excruciatingly cold water—think sand, pioneered saltwater permit fishing, put down roots in Belize and color and eat this undulating, pulsating creation. spring steelhead—dead drift drag free became a semi-tropical saltwater fly-fishing legend. In the seasons since Bauer’s epiphany, the ESL has directly into the targeted fish’s face. The ubiquitous streamer fly that he abandoned in Anchorage, the evolved through thousands of fly-tying vises and as Later, when the water warms, quarter Purple Egg Sucking Leech, also grew into a legend. many imaginations. The original version (black or the cast across, sink, mend upstream, For hungry, aggressive or just plain mean gamefish, the ESL may purple-your choice) chenille body, palmered hackle, swing downstream and quick strip in appear to be the ultimate two-fer meal, a bright purple leech chowing goofy bright head, remains intact and available short bursts: Strip-pause-strip. down on a salmon or trout egg. One gulp and two snacks. everywhere. It’s so common that it’s easy to spot Over a lake weed bed strip and For a few brief minute long ago, I nearly overthought the simplicity modifications. pause and let it fall or slowly swim of this pattern. I had no evidence that leeches, which are segmented Some anglers add cone heads for sink weight and horizontally—very leech-like. With parasites, actually eat salmon eggs, and I’m reasonably sure we have up-and-down movement, others fiddle with dumbbell more green and brown leeches than bright purple. Logically, the PESL eyes, some replace the marabou tail with rabbit strip should not fool any fish brighter than a tidepool sculpin. (leather side down please), others tie the body with two segments creating articulated movement and upping the odds by using two hooks. Some tiers have gotten so ridiculous as to add pearl Flashabou, tinsel or silver wire wraps to the body. Why bother? This humpy couldn’t refuse For the all-important head I continue to favor the the author’s PESL. orange-red (egg) but you’ll find flies with every other color imaginable. Some anglers are substituting plastic beads for the chenille head. Their choice. My preference is natural ingredients. Don Roberts favors lime-green yarn heads, and I confess that when chum salmon are my target, I’ll tie in a chartreuse head or (and I’m really starting to like this for chums) a mix of chartreuse and orange. Predator fish, like Dollies and rainbows, seem to prefer ESLs with weight added at the mid-section to present a level leech, but I’m convinced that defensive strikes from river silvers and chums are triggered quicker with a herky-jerky dive-and-rise retrieve created by moving the weight wraps forward to just behind the eye and presenting with short, quick, aggressive strips. One of the tremendous advantages of the ESL is that it can be fished just as efficiently and effectively with fly- or spinning tackle, trolled or cast, swung or imitatively worked. Add sufficient split shot to cast and there’s not a spinning rod in Salmon or Trout Land that can’t fish an ESL productively. Same for trollers. Don’t tell Roberts, but I’ve trolled PESLs on downriggers and caught enough stratified rainbows to know it can be done. Crescent sinkers take a trolled PESL down 10- to 20 feet, and manipulated rod action

58 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 59 Grayling, rainbows, Dollies, silvers, chums and pinks like this one all succumb to the seduction of the ESL.

a fly rod, a slow hand twist retrieve provides both a tantalizing leech-like crawl and marabou flutter movement. With a spinning rod, retrieve dead slow and gently wiggle the rod tip. Trolling: Use quick S turns, starts and stops. Trollers have the option of fishing a daisy-chain of three flies, with a variety of chenille body colors, rigged in tandem (check regulations to ensure it’s legal). The palmered (cupped toward the head) hackle wraps stand up, undulate and pulsate as the ESL moves through stillwater or swings on a down-current stream presentation or flares on a dead drift. Just a whisper of movement and the marabou plume waves seductively, lifelike, irresistibly. Cast, sink, swing, swim. Alaska’s own ubiquitous PESL will do the rest.

Terry W. Sheely is a contributing editor for Fish Alaska magazine and can be reached through his website at www.tnscommunications.net.

60 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 TheThe BestBest ofof thethe PanhandlePanhandle ExploringExploring Sitka’sSitka’s ProductiveProductive i Clockwise from above: Battling a “barn door” at the saltwater boat; Commercial boats in Sitka harbor; Native art; saltwater Sea lions, always ready to steal a fish.

By E. Donnall Thomas Jr. Photos by Don and Lori Thomas

62 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 63 Mooching for king salmon offers a prime Destination: Sitka on Prince of Wales Island. Those trips example of why fly rod anglers should The town of Sitka and the wilderness began with a ride by floatplane or ferry not look condescendingly upon their rain forest surrounding it would make an to Ketchikan followed by a commercial conventional tackle counterparts. To attractive destination even if the fishing jet flight to Sitka. Honestly, it’s easier to the untrained eye, mooching can look weren’t so good. Sitka lies on Baranof get there from Anchorage or Seattle. Why as simple as putting a hook through a Island’s outer coast, with towering peaks leave good fishing behind to travel, other herring and dropping it into the sea. behind it and Kruzof Island shielding than to enjoy the company of friends? As Sometimes that works, but the 10% of it from the open North Pacific. The much as I loved the stream fishing close to the anglers who catch 90% of the kings coastline nearby is complex and offers home, I prefer to eat fish straight from the employ techniques as subtle as anything shelter somewhere in almost any wind. sea. The saltwater fishing near Sitka was I’ve ever done with a fly rod. The area’s streams run clear and support much more productive than it was near I know this because my wife, Lori, good runs of anadromous fish, but most our house on the Inside Passage. always out-fishes everyone else even when visiting anglers target the salt in Sitka we’re all in the same boat at the same time. Sound and beyond. Kings: The Best Come First She does this so consistently that it can’t The area’s original residents were While small feeder kings inhabit Sitka be luck. Doug Borland, a longtime friend Tlingit, but European explorers began waters throughout the year, migrating and Sitka resident, has an excuse, since to arrive in the 18th century—Russians fish begin to show up in June and remain he spends so much time at the controls in 1741, Spanish in 1774, and English through July. Sitka kings arrive from all of his boat with his rod in a rod holder. in 1793. Alexander Baranof established directions, bound for freshwater up and I do too, since I’m almost always married the first permanent European settlement down the coast. Consequently, the run is to my fly rod. But we usually have two in Alaska there in 1799, and New not dependent upon fish from any specific or three more friends on board with us, Archangel became the capitol of Russian river system. Most will tip the scales and Lori catches more kings than they do America. After Secretary of State William between 15- and 25 pounds, with larger every time. Seward negotiated the Alaska Purchase fish always possible. I became spoiled She accomplishes this through a in 1867, the town, named Sitka, served on big kings living on the Kenai during combination of patience, attention, and as the capitol of the Alaska Territory its heyday in the early 1980s, when a technique, as she demonstrated early on until 1906. This rich historical blend of 50-pound king was just another nice fish. the first morning of one of our annual Native and Russian culture coupled with I may never see another 70-pound king summer trips to visit Doug and his wife, its spectacular setting make Sitka an ideal again, but during many of our Sitka trips Olga. Waiting for the tide to turn, we destination for non-angling family and someone boats a 50-pounder. weren’t seeing a lot of bait on the screen. companions. Kings are taken by trolling with I’d hung up my 10-weight to wait for Like most towns in Alaska’s Southeastern downriggers or mooching, with the latter the target-rich environment I needed, Panhandle, Sitka has a limited road method requiring a bit more hands-on and everyone else aboard had abandoned system and is only accessible by air or by technique. Learning how to plug-cut a their gear to rod holders while they drank sea. Once you arrive, transportation out herring at just the right angle to make it coffee and told fish stories—except for of town depends on boats or floatplanes. spin properly in the water is crucial. Sitka Lori, who was sitting quietly in the stern Fortunately, you don’t have to travel far to supports a large charter fishery for those with her mooching rod in her hands, find good saltwater fishing. not fortunate enough to have resident ignoring all distractions. Lori and I started traveling to Sitka friends with boats. With local knowledge, While one might think that a fish regularly every summer when we lived kings can be found in select locations in as large and powerful as a king salmon would smash a herring aggressively, that’s often not the case. When I saw Lori’s rod tip jiggle, I thought a rockfish might be stealing her bait. She knew better. Instead of responding with a frantic strike, she calmly fed the fish three pulls of line from her reel and waited. Long seconds passed with no indication that anything had taken her herring. Only then did her rod tip start to lower steadily. As soon as she struck her reel began to whine, and ten minutes later, she had a 25-pound king lying in the fish box. There is no better way to begin the day, and no better place to do it than the waters near Sitka.

Lori Thomas with a Sitka king. a break in the weather allowed us to run outside on that year’s trip we headed to sea to target silvers. It took us a while to find them, but once we did chaos descended upon Doug’s boat. Multiple simultaneous hook-ups on willowy mooching rods occurred at a furious pace. Demoted to deckhand, I couldn’t man the net, untangle lines, bleed fish, and bait hooks fast enough to keep up with all the acrobatic silvers jumping around us. When we started back inshore ahead of a freshening breeze, the ice chest held as many big, bright silvers as we wanted to process. As an added bonus, silver salmon Visiting angler Ken Russell with a pair stocks appear robust and limits remain of big king salmon. generous, in contrast to recent restrictions on retaining kings and bottomfish.

Going Down: Halibut, Lingcod, and Rockfish While king- and silver salmon rank as Alaska’s premier saltwater gamefish, they almost any direction, although water to are hardly the only fish in the sea. Because the south and west is most productive. of the rich base of the marine food chain in The area around Biorka Island is a reliable the waters outside Sitka, the area supports producer, but this requires a bit of a run robust numbers of bottom dwellers like and can be weather dependent due to halibut, lingcod, and demersal rockfish. exposure to the open Pacific. These deep-water species may not run and Kings are most often found between jump like salmon, but on the table they’re 30- and 60 feet below the surface, but at unsurpassed. times they cruise almost any segment of There’s a reason why Alaskans habitually the water column. They are more likely feed salmon to casual visitors (who to rise to take a bait than to descend, but haven’t been eating salmon five nights a they occasionally even strike jigs meant for halibut. If what you’re doing isn’t working, try something else. Anglers accustomed to kings in freshwater should expect an extra measure of excitement when they hook their first one in the salt. Like all salmon, kings are more vigorous and powerful before they enter their natal streams to spawn. On one Sitka trip, I managed to hook and land a 40-pound king on my fly rod. I’ve taken bigger Kenai River kings on similar tackle, but I’ve never had it tested more severely than I did on that fish. Be prepared for a wild ride once you set the hook on a Sitka saltwater king.

Silvers: Fast Action King fishing resembles big-game hunting, with lots of quiet time punctuated by occasional moments of spectacular success. Fishing for silvers is more like wing-shooting, with lots of fast action once you’ve found the quarry. Silvers arrive as early as June in some locations near streams that host early returns, but the best silver fishing starts in late July and Local expert Doug Borland with a lasts into October. nice king from his home water. The 2018 Sitka king run was poor as it was in many parts of Alaska, so when assumption that recreational fishing has little or no biological impact on marine resources is no longer tenable. Regulations have changed to reflect these new realities, especially in high-use areas, and they continue to change, sometimes from week to week depending on current biological data. These changes have impacted the Sitka sport fishery, especially for non- resident anglers and the charter fleet that serves them. These regulations are there for a reason. For anglers and fisheries managers alike, health of the resource must always be the prime consideration. Perhaps it’s time to consider a new paradigm. I love to eat fish, and fish from cold, Sitka saltwater are as good as Sitka’s commercial fleet at work. Lori with another king. No surprise there. fish get. On the other hand, decades of catching and releasing trout and steelhead week for months) and save the halibut for longest-lived fish in the sea and require Pelagic rockfish like the misnamed family and special friends. Halibut freezes especially careful management because “black bass” are different fish. They move well and tastes delicious served any way they reproduce so slowly. freely throughout the water column and it’s possible to cook a fish. Sitka waters When I was a kid growing up on Puget can be fun to take on light tackle near produce plenty of them, although I’ve Sound 60 years ago, at the end of a day the surface. They reproduce much more never landed a true “barn door” there. of salmon fishing we would take our quickly than their demersal cousins, and That’s actually fine with me, since I think leftover bait, send it to the bottom, and their populations remain stable. On a day halibut under 50 pounds make superior fill the boat with rockfish for the table. trip out of Sitka, casting to the edge of eating. Lingcod, my personal favorite Those days are over, primarily due to a kelp bed with fly tackle or a spinning North Pacific table fish, represent targets over fishing and slow growth rates, and rod equipped with a jig can provide fast of opportunity usually taken incidentally in high-use areas like Sitka regulations are fishing. Limits are more generous and you while halibut fishing, although Sitka now designed to protect stocks of these can keep a few without threatening the waters contain plenty of them. fish. Demersal rockfish have no means of resource. The vast, diverse rockfish family divides decompressing their swim bladders, and Over the last several years, regulations into two basic categories, both well- fish brought to the surface from depths directed at halibut, lingcod, and demersal represented near Sitka. Demersal rockfish of 60 feet or greater will likely die. Study rockfish have become sharply more are generally colorful, spiny, and found the regulations (they’re complicated, and restrictive. Always consult current rules close to the bottom. Most species weigh many are specific to this area), carry a carefully, including possible emergency just a couple of pounds, but the beautiful deep-water release device (see Fish Alaska, changes. Fresh king salmon caviar, courtesy yelloweye rockfish can reach weights over June 2012), and know how to use it. If of Olga Borland. 20. A world-record class yelloweye caught you start to catch rockfish while bouncing Beyond Fish Boxes near Sitka in 2013 weighed over 39 the bottom for halibut, move to a new Times are changing. Once reliable salmon pounds. Demersal rockfish are among the location. runs are becoming unpredictable. The

have taught me that you don’t have to kill fish to enjoy catching them. With proper technique, all the fish I’ve described can be caught and released with acceptable mortality. Long considered standard practice in freshwater, catch-and-release fishing may be ready to go to sea. No matter how much you enjoy eating what you catch, there is more to the angling experience than dinner— especially in a place as beguiling as Sitka.

An Alaska resident off and on since 1980, Don Thomas and his wife Lori now live A king comes reluctantly to the net. You don’t see this every day—a demersal rockfish taken in rural Montana. Don writes about on a fly. hunting and angling for numerous national publications.

October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 69 Slippery Salmon Bar & Grill Seafood Lasagna Directions Cook your noodles first, al dente. Once pulled A personal recipe from James McConnell, General Manger from the boiling water, rub a generous layer of extra virgin olive oil over them. At the Preparation time: 2 hours 1 pound of fresh ricotta cheese “Slippery,” we pull our pasta with a Chinese 1/3 pound of feta cheese crumbles wire spoon and do not rinse them as we want Cooking time: 1½ hours No salt or pepper at this point. a bit of the starch to remain as a binder for Serves: 8 to 10 generously the sauce. Sauce Ingredients Filling Ingredients 3/4- to 1 gallon of whole milk Melt two sticks of butter in a large saucepan 1 1/2 pounds diced halibut 1 cup white wine, Pinot Grigio or and let it “brown” before adding the flour. Add 1 1/2 pounds diced Alaska cod Sauvignon Blanc (No sweet or oaky wine) just a touch of olive oil to the butter to stop 1 pound chopped king or lump crab 3/4 pound unsalted butter its browning and add the two cups of flour. 1 pound chopped shrimp or prawns 2 cups whole wheat flour to be used Immediately begin to stir with a whisk. You 1 large white onion, finely chopped making a roux will be making a hard roux at this point and 1 large fennel bulb, finely chopped 4 fresh tarragon sprigs (1- to 1 1/2 tsp it will clump up as you stir it. Keep moving 1/4 pound melted butter to soften the dry leaves) it around the pan for a minute. Pour in two onion and fennel 4 fresh thyme springs (1- to 1 1/2 tsp quarts of whole milk and whisk until nice and 1 large box of wheat lasagna noodles, dry leaves) smooth. It will get really thick and a bit lumpy. cooked al dente 2 (2-ounce) packages of fresh chopped dill Keep stirring and add more milk, a cup at a 3/4- to 1 pound of Pecorino 2 tsp white pepper time, to make a loose gravy. If it is still lumpy Romano cheese 1 tsp red Hawaiian sea salt you can smooth it out with an immersion blender.

Slippery Salmon Bar & Grill 115 E 3rd Ave, Anchorage, AK 99501 (907) 334-8410 • www.slipperysalmonanchorage.com

Once the sauce is made, add the sautéed then shrimp and Pecorino Romano. Layer as onions, fennel, tarragon, thyme, chopped dill, you like, just keep it very moist and build your salt and pepper. Let this simmer for 30 minutes layers as you see fit. When you reach four layers, and then taste for the highlights of the herbs. add feta and Pecorino Romano as your finish Tarragon has a dominant flavor so if you want layer. Cover the pan with Saran Wrap, followed more, add it one stem at a time and let it poach by aluminum foil. Bake at 375 degrees for 1½ for another 15- to 20 minutes. Add the white hours. At that point you can pull the foil and wine, lemon zest and lemon juice. You now Saran Wrap and let it brown in the oven for have made a Tarragon Beurre Blanc sauce or another 15 minutes. Bring it out of the oven to French Butter Sauce. Do not add any more salt rest for at least 20 minutes. as it will come from the Pecorino and feta. To Serve Assembly We present our servings in 8- to 10-ounce portions. Place a thin layer of sauce on the bottom of You should have some reserve sauce that you your pan, spreading evenly. Add a layer of can ladle onto a plate and present each piece lasagna pasta. Put a layer of halibut, followed with a bit of salmon lox for color. Ladle more by a generous layer of sauce and then Pecorino sauce on the top, sprinkle with dried parsley, Romano. More pasta, crab, sauce and ricotta. fresh diced tomato or fresh chopped basil. Enjoy, More pasta, ricotta, cod and feta. More pasta, and we will see you at the Slippery Salmon. 70 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com October/November 2018 October/November 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 71 Alaska’s Fish Tales Lodge ...... 17 Alaskans for Dunleavy ...... 38, 39 Log Cabin Sporting Goods ...... 17 PenAir ...... 73 Anchorage McFarland’s Floatel ...... 17 Salmon Sisters ...... 37 Adventures in Eye Care ...... 49 Quinhagak Sportsman’s Warehouse ...... 76 Alaska Air Taxi ...... 29 Reel Action Alaska Lodge ...... 13 Three Bears Alaska ...... 4 Alaska Camper Van Conversions . . . .28 Sitka Trout Unlimited ...... 19 Alaska Marine ...... 25 Alaska Premier Charters ...... 65, 66 National Alaska Raft & Kayak ...... 28 Vonnie’s Charters @ Halibut Point Lodge 66 Acme Tackle ...... 28 Alaskans for Dunleavy ...... 38, 39 Soldotna Alaska Outdoors TV ...... 46 AshBreez Boatworks ...... 29 Alaska Drift Away Fishing ...... 74 American Airboats ...... 26 FisheWear ...... 35 Kenai Riverside Lodge ...... 61 Angler West TV ...... 72 Mossy’s Fly Shop ...... 20, 32 Randa’s Guide Service ...... 21 Avitus Group ...... 33 Oomingmak ...... 36 Soldotna Hardware and Fishing . . .16, 40 Berge Tackle ...... 16 PenAir ...... 73 Sweeney’s Clothing ...... 48 Bissell Insurance Agency ...... 25 Rural Energy Enterprises ...... 7 Sterling Caddis Waders ...... 5 Tebow Financial Group ...... 24 Alaska Canoe ...... 74 Clackacraft Drift Boats ...... 29 Trout Realty AK ...... 61 Thorne Bay Coast ...... 45 Women’s Flyfishing ...... 35 McFarland’s Floatel ...... 17 DiamondBlade Knives ...... 35 Aniak Togiak Eagle Claw ...... 31 Aniak Air Guides ...... 21 Togiak River Lodge ...... 12 Eppinger Manufacturing Company . . .24 Bristol Bay Valdez Garmin ...... 2 Alaska’s Bearclaw Lodge ...... 13 Eagle’s Rest RV Park ...... 75 Knives of Alaska ...... 35 Cooper Landing Fish Central ...... 75 Korkers ...... 14 Chasing Tales ...... 74 Totem Hotel and Suites ...... 75 Leelock Anchor Systems ...... 34 Kenai Riverside Lodge ...... 61 Valdez Convention & Visitors Bureau . .49 Norlander Company ...... 21 Cordova Valdez Fish Derbies ...... 75 SeaArk Boats ...... 27 Alaskan Wilderness Outfitting Company .61 Valdez Outfitters ...... 75 SKB Cases ...... 10 Dillingham Wasilla Skinner Sights ...... 37 Nushagak River Adventures . . . . .9, 13 JETECH LLC ...... 8 Spyderco ...... 6 Eagle River Quick Lock Holsters ...... 36 Stonefly Studio ...... 37 Eagle River Polaris & Arctic Cat . . . . 41 Whittier Trout Unlimited ...... 19 Fairbanks Whittier Marine Charters ...... 29 XTRATUF ...... 11 Explore Fairbanks ...... 55 Yakutat International Haines Monti Bay Lodge & Resort ...... 69 Bradley Smoker ...... 70 Outfitter Sporting Goods ...... 69 Statewide Homer Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute . . .70 Homer Boat Yard ...... 23 Homer Chamber of Commerce . . . . 23 Homer Marine Trades Association . . . 23 Kachemak Gear Shed ...... 23 Kokopelli Trailers ...... 23 NOMAR ...... 23 Salmon Sisters ...... 37 Sea Tow Southcentral Alaska . . . . . 25 Sloth Boats ...... 23 Ulmer’s Drug & Hardware ...... 23 Iliamna Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge ...... 59 Angry Eagle Lodge ...... 12 Talarik Creek Lodge ...... 13 Katmai Naknek River Camp ...... 4 King Salmon Bear Trail Lodge ...... 21 Branch River Air Service ...... 13 Naknek River Camp ...... 4 Kodiak Ayakulik Adventures ...... 67 Budget Car Rental of Kodiak . . . . . 67 Kodiak Combos ...... 67 Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle . . . . .44 Naknek Naknek River Camp ...... 4 Nushagak Bristol Bay Adventures ...... 12 Nushagak River Adventures . . . . .9, 13 Palmer Bleeding Heart Brewery ...... 36 Tebow Financial Group ...... 24 Prince of Wales Island Alaska Sea Otter Sound Lodge . . . . .17 with coho. About half are first run and have or so, no one seems to know about it. that beautiful red coloring, the rest are second I ditch a quick thought about landing run and fresh as could be. a silver on my five-weight. I could, there is Secret Spot I peel off some layers to remove my sweat- ample room to play a fish and the current Story by Kelly Pinnell soaked, poly undershirt. Two miles in on a is slow in the pools. I could keep it, but rough trail has cost some effort, but it is worth the freezer is already packed for winter and I know a spot. That’s about all you’ll get out it. I stuff the shirt into the back of my fishing I plan on trout fishing all day. The thought of me. I’ll describe it and tell you why I like it, vest and then get myself put back together for of having to drag a stringer all over creation but I won’t give it away. It’s mine. a long day’s fishing. I’m not here for the silvers doesn’t sound appealing. I could catch-and- I could be there right now as you’re though. No, I’m after rainbows. release, but something doesn’t feel right about reading this. It is that time of year. Although I watch the pools for a few minutes, lost it. Instead, I simply scan the water for a few it’s more likely that I’m down on the lower in the quiet sounds of a wild river. I’m alone. more minutes until I see the first pig rainbow Kenai Peninsula chasing steelhead. It’s that I always am when I come here. I have never flash near the tailout of the upper pool. time of year too. But this spot doesn’t hold encountered another human being within a I set up in a position for the cast that will any steelhead. What it holds are hundreds mile of this spot at this time of the year. I fear put my bead drift near the hog. It takes on the of silver salmon. Two pools on one of the every year when I go back someone will have first cast and the fight is on. The rod is bent prettiest rivers you’ll ever see, two pools filled found my secret spot, but for the last 12 years deep and is humming in my hand from the line tension. I make a quick drag adjustment after the first short run to give me a little more braking power. Not enough, I quickly learn, as the trout makes a blazing run downstream. It has taken my line under a tree during its run and my leader is in danger of snagging on a limb. I do the only thing I can and plunge into the current so that I can work my way under the tree. There is a moment of worry when I dip my rod tip under the tree, but the fish is still on when I come out the other side. I had just about regained my balance when the trout reversed course and ran upstream, again passing under the tree. I followed the fish under the tree again and when I came out the other side I was face to face with a four-hundred-pound grizzly. He looked at me like I had just woken him up from a nap. I slowly worked my way back under the tree talking calmly to the bear as my free hand went for the bear spray. I made it under the tree and worked my way across the river from the bear, still clinching my nether regions. I moved about fifty yards downstream keeping a close eye on the bear. It wasn’t long before it waded into the river and came out with a thrashing breakfast of coho salmon. It was then that I felt my rod tug. I thought the trout had come off when I was making my way across the river but it was still hooked. I broke it off so as not to draw the bear’s attention and headed downstream. I still had two miles or so of good trout fishing water before I made it back to the trailhead. I lost count of the trout and grayling I landed within the first hour. I remember marveling at the fact that no one else has seemed to figure this spot out. It was right here where anyone could get to it. It was full of fish and empty of people. How often do we get to experience that on the road system? Me? About a half dozen trips a year or until I get eaten by that bear.

Author Kelly Pinnell is a long-time Alaskan and fly fisherman. His books includeThe Dolly Made Me Do It and The ABC’s of Reading Alaska’s Small Rivers and Streams. He enjoys standing in water and waving sticks at fish.

June 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 75