DUNDALK DERRY FINN HARPS BOHS ROVERS ST PAT’S 2017 SLIGO BRAY www.liberoguide.com IRELAND 2017 www.liberoguide.com INTRO

Richmond Park

two groups of ten teams in 2018, three will drop down from the Premier and only the First Division champions be allocated a top- tier berth.

Given the recent achievements of title- The domination of the domestic game improving, the game here isn’t a sanitised Station to station holders Dundalk in Europe, the 2017 by Dublin clubs – 17 titles for Shamrock product played out for the profit of some There are half-a-dozen airports in Ireland season could not have Rovers, 11 for Bohemians, eight for St offshore oligarch. This is football at its most with links to the UK and regular bus connec- wished for a better start than the visit of Patrick’s Athletic – has been consigned to raw and, possibly, romantic – what other , Cork tions to surrounding towns. Direct services record champions Shamrock Rovers to the past. Since Ireland’s switch to summer reason could there be to visit , from Dublin Airport also run to most cities , ‘The Home of Football’. soccer in 2003, almost as many provincial home of the once mighty Finn Harps? and main towns. sides have been crowned champions, the over the County Dublin border into County Finishing behind Dundalk in the 2016 first title win by Drogheda in 2007 still The casual visitor might even discover a Wicklow – but included here in the Dublin State-owned Bus Éireann has the most title race, and qualifying for the Europa remembered by many at . hidden talent, a Roy Keane or a Shane Long, section due to ease of travel from the main comprehensive and competitively priced League in 2017-18, Shamrock Rovers, before their inevitable flit over the Irish Sea. transport hubs of the capital. public-transport network around Ireland, Cork City and Derry City each have a For the intrepid groundhopper, Ireland is reaching areas bereft of any rail connection. significant fan base, too, matched only the perfect destination, with affordable, The match-day journey alone might be even Recently promoted Limerick and 2015 Tickets can be purchased in advance, online. by supporter-owned Sligo Rovers on pay-on-the-day admission, bars at many memorable, such as the coastline DART ride promotees Galway United will both want to the west coast. For 2017, Derry play at grounds and an easy-going atmosphere at down from Dublin to Bray. Home of Bray avoid any scrap for Premier Division survival Sister company Dublin Bus covers the Buncrana, up in Inishowen. most matches. And while facilities may need Wanderers, the seaside resort is a goal kick in 2017. With the League being reduced to capital, complemented by the Luas light rail

liberoguide.com 2 IRELAND 2017 www.liberoguide.com

Living Room, Dublin Sligo

BUNCRANA INTRO

DERRY

BALLYBOFEY

SLIGO

DUNDALK President’s Cup a week before the regular league season.

DROGHEDA The FAI Cup is decided over one-leg ties, including the semi-finals, with replays from the quarter-final stage onwards, extra time DUBLIN and penalties in earlier rounds. The 20 GALWAY League of Ireland clubs enter at the Second Round stage, plus four teams from Ireland’s and DART coastal train, operated by state- clubs respectively – though this will change lower leagues, given a bye as the draw is owned Irish Rail, Iarnród Éireann. in 2018. made.

Rail travel is generally dearer and less At the end of the 2017 season, three teams LIMERICK The three main regional leagues of Leinster, extensive around Ireland, though this is will drop from the Premier to the First, with Munster and form a de facto third changing. A line between Limerick and only the champions to go up. With a ten- tier but there is no direct promotion or Galway opened in 2010, the journey between club spread to be in place across the two relegation with the League of Ireland, whose Dublin and Cork is now a comfortable divisions, it is not yet clear how the structure reserve sides compete at this level. The experience and online ticket deals can be of each will operate from 2018 onwards. Ulster Senior League mainly features sides attractive. CORK from . Teams from these For 2017, the old system remains in the three regional leagues compete in their own Motorways connect Dublin with all major Premier Division. Clubs play each other the first qualifying round of the Europa sponsored by the Irish Daily Mail, was most knock-out tournament, the FAI Intermediate towns. Distances are given in kilometres and three times in a 33-game season. League. recently decided by a dramatic late goal Cup, previously known as the FAI Qualifying toll charges are paid in cash. as Cork City overcame Dundalk in front of Cup. The 2017 Premier Division champions The winners of the FAI Cup join them – or 26,400 at Dublin’s . Tables & trophies gain access to the first qualifying round the fourth-placed side nips in if the trophy The 16 that reached the Fourth Round in the The League of Ireland consists of two of the Champions League 2018-19. goes to a team finishing above it. Ireland’s FAI Cup holders and LoI champions previous season’s competition go into the divisions, Premier and First, of 12 and eight Teams finishing second and third enter main knock-out tournament, currently traditionally meet at the curtain-raising First Round of the senior FAI Cup. They are

liberoguide.com 3 IRELAND 2017 www.liberoguide.com INTRO

Au Celtique

Savoy Hotel, Limerick

Availability is rarely a problem and pay-on- CONTENTS the-night is the norm. Visiting supporters 5 Dublin usually have their own turnstile and area of 8 Bohemians Brandywell, Derry the ground. 9 Bray Wanderers 10 St Patrick’s Athletic Welcome to liberoguide.com! 11 Shamrock Rovers joined by the four semi-finalists from the on, is decided over a one-leg final. The 7.45pm. At least one match takes place The digital travel guide for football 12 Ballybofey FAI Junior Cup, a wide-reaching amateur winners do not qualify for Europe. on Saturday night and sometimes one on fans, liberoguide.com is the most 13 Finn Harps tournament involving some 600 teams. Sunday afternoon. up-to-date resource, city-by-city, 14 Cork Season’s dealings club-by-club, to the game across 15 Cork City Of these 20 clubs, four receive byes to the Ireland introduced summer football in Entry level Europe and North America. Using 16 Derry/Buncrana Second Round of the FAI Cup. 2003. The 2017 season kicks off on Friday, At most grounds, admission is cash-only only original photos and first-hand 17 Derry City February 24, a week earlier than the year at the turnstiles, prices around €15, research, taken and undertaken 18 Drogheda The final of the FAI Intermediate Cup and FAI before to avoid a fixture pile-up in the €10 for seniors and students, €5 for over five seasons, liberoguide.com 19 Drogheda United Junior Cup are now both played at the Aviva autumn. The season runs until the end of children. has been put together to enhance 20 . October, bookended by the FAI Cup final on every football weekend and Euro 21 Dundalk FC November 5. Shamrock Rovers, St Patrick’s Athletic, night experience. From airport to 22 Galway There is one more knock-out trophy, Dundalk, Galway, Cork, Derry and Bray arena, downtown sports bar to hotel, 23 Galway United involving the 20 senior teams and The mid-summer break is also cut short Wanderers offer advance sales for liberoguide.com helps you get the 24 Limerick four invited from the lower leagues. by a week, and will run from June 3 to individual matches, either online or from best out of your visit to football’s 25 Limerick FC The , with its 15. Friday night football is now firmly the ticket office/club shop. furthest corners and showcase 26 Sligo byzantine regional structure earlier established, games usually kicking off at stadiums. 27 Sligo Rovers

liberoguide.com 4 IRELAND 2017 Dublin www.liberoguide.com/dublin

The Back Page Molly Malone statue DUBLIN

Blooms Hotel

hosting its first match in 1901 between Dublin’s most enduring clubs, Bohe- mians (the Bohs) and Shelbourne (the Shels, currently in the First Division). Unfit to host competitive internationals after the national side had gained mass support from the late 1980s onwards, the Dalymount was abandoned to its remit of hosting the Bohs. Living Room

With no Dalymount, no Lansdowne Road after its demolition in 2007, and Across town, another stadium saga had the Aviva three years away from being long been unfolding in south Dub- built on the same site, Ireland’s soccer lin. While the Bohs had been formed team needed a stadium. Other towns near the North Circular Road in 1890, have rarely been an option. Though Shelbourne and Shamrock Rovers Dundalk, Cork and Waterford broke hailed from southside Ringsend. This the Dublin monopoly on the domestic simple north v south dynamic was league from the 1930s onwards, the skewed when the former Ringsend national side has only played four home residents were forced to groundshare games outside Dublin since the first in northside from the late dozen clubs, four a century or more old, and dominance of Gaelic football. It 1924. 1980s onwards. For Rovers, it followed Dublin strive to attract 3,000-plus crowds in a wasn’t until 1971 that Ireland’s national the controversial sale of their revered two-division, 20-team domestic league. team started to share Lansdowne Road In a seminal decision, temporary Glenmalure Park in southside Milltown. Dublin is where 50,000 gather to roar with its rugby counterparts. permission was granted for soccer to on Ireland’s national side in a modern Attempts to increase gates are gradu- be played at Gaelic football stronghold Ireland’s most popular and most titled arena chosen to co-host Euro 2020. ally succeeding but not helped by the Until then, had been Croke Park. club, Rovers remained homeless for Across town from the Aviva, half-a- popularity of England’s Premier League the home of the round-ball game, more than 20 years as development of

liberoguide.com 5 IRELAND 2017 Dublin www.liberoguide.com/dublin

Temple Bar Hotel

Airtricity (‘Real Football, Real Fans’) DUBLIN have all helped to raise gates.

Real fans you’ll find at Bray, way down the coast on the DART rail line. Strictly in County Wicklow, bordering on Dublin an easy hop away, the venerable is home of former FAI Cup winners Bray Wanderers. Set close to the sea and a short stroll from the DART station, it has been a sports venue since 1862.

Bearings Dublin Airport is 10km (six miles) north of the city. Dublin Bus Airlink 747 leaves every 10-15min for Heuston rail station (off-peak journey time 50min) via the

The Shelbourne main bus station, BusÁras (off-peak journey time 30min) near Connolly rail station. Allow more journey time in rush a new stadium in Tallaght, south-west of the light rail line from town (and hour, especially when coming from town. Other buses into the city from the airport For the rest of the year, there is Dublin, stalled. direct from St Pat’s, prompting the term are the Nos.16 and 41 via Drumcondra, plenty of choice within walking ‘LUAS derby’), the new arena witnessed Tickets are €6 single/€10 return. and the 24hr aircoach to the centre (€7 distance of the national arena and Making up Dublin’s Big Four, St Cristiano Ronaldo’s debut for Real The multi-transport Leap Card (€5 single, €12 return, €6/€11 online, every its DART station an easy hop to and Patrick’s Athletic share southside Madrid in a friendly that July. plus €5 credit) is valid but offers no 15min, 30min journey time). from the city centre. Lansdowne loyalties with Shamrock Rovers. Irish savings on the airport bus. It does Road lodgings such as Ariel House champions in 2013, FAI Cup winners A year later, Manchester United strode offer reductions on all other Dublin Airport Taxi (+353 1 290 9090) quotes and Butlers Town House offer old- in 2014, never-relegated St Pat’s are out against a League of Ireland XI before buses, the LUAS light-rail line and €24 for the city centre. For a taxi in school hospitality in lovely historic based at Richmond Park, Inchicore, in a newly opened and packed Aviva. DART & commuter rail lines. On the town, call NRC on +353 1 677 2222. properties. south-west Dublin, bringing tifo colour bus, tell the driver your destination and choreography to Dublin derby The main home games for Ireland’s for him to deduct fare once you touch Bed In the new Docklands development, games. These same fans were the first successful qualification campaign into the ticket machine. Journeys Visit Dublin has a database of hotels at still walking distance from the Aviva, to protest when a potential groundshare for Euro 2016 attracted 50,000 over 13 stages are a flat €2.60. On www.visitdublin.com/dublin-city-hotels. The Marker is the suitably upscale, with Shamrock Rovers at Tallaght was crowds, as the domestic league the LUAS and Dublin short-hop DART contemporary hotel, with spa and mooted in 1996. improved. Summer football, Friday & Commuter rail zone (including Note that rooms are booked cool bar, where FC Barcelona stayed night games, the supporter-focused Blackrock and Bray), touch in and early around the Aviva Stadium and before the pre-season game with Construction started on Tallaght FanPoweredFootball campaign touch off as you board and alight. the city centre for rugby weekends in Celtic in July 2016. Stadium in 2008. Set near the terminus and promotion by league sponsors February and March.

liberoguide.com 6 IRELAND 2017 Dublin www.liberoguide.com/dublin

Auld Dubliner Just over the river Dodder from the DUBLIN stadium, the family-run Sandymount is another reliable and convenient choice.

Nearer to town but still only a stroll from the Aviva, the Landsdowne Hotel garners loyal repeat custom thanks to the Quinn family welcome. Its Den Bar tends towards the oval ball – note the largest collection of rugby ties in the world.

Beside the aircoach bus stop south of town, a 15-minute walk from Lansdowne Road, the landmark, 502- room Clayton Hotel Burlington Road was completely refurbished in 2014.

In the same family as the Ballsbridge Hotel, the maldron group runs a O’Neill’s number of mid- and upper-range hotels at key locations in downtown Dublin, as well as five minutes’ walk from Tallaght Room restaurant. Its Horseshoe Bar is Bad Ass Temple Bar Temple Bar is now more pub-like than ones, and The Living Room, which Stadium, where you’ll also find the equally renowned. when Sinéad O’Connor worked here shows almost every league known Glashaus, all sleek and contemporary back in the day. to man and whose outdoor screen is but affordable. If you’d rather stay an easy stagger claimed to be Europe’s largest. The 3 from the many pubs of Temple Bar, then Back on the south side, further down Spirits, Dublin’s first Brazilian bar, is For an authentic Dublin pub experience the Blooms Hotel is a handy mid-range towards St Stephen’s Green, Sinnotts lined with screens for soccer watching combined with an affordable, choice while the Temple Bar Hotel is mobbed on big-match nights, with 14 – the food can be hit and miss, but that’s comfortable room, O’Donoghue’s is itself combines contemporary comfort large screens. Between Pearse station not why you’re there. perfect. The greatest names in Irish with live music in its bar every night and Merrion Square, The Square Ball music have all played in the illustrious of the week. Nearby, the refurbished on Hogan Place is a relative newbie, a A fairly recent addition to the sport pub bar below. Fleet Street Hotel is also handy for a trendy spot that goes big on rarer beers scene, up in Phibsborough, The Back bar-hop. ty-centric Trinity Bar has a huge screen while showing TV sports and providing Page comprises a chatty front bar, a On the other side of the street is while O’Neill’s in nearby Suffolk Street shelfloads of board games. larger back one featuring a wall-length the most famous hotel in town, The Beer is a more traditional bet. mural dedicated to Italia ‘90, an alcove Shelbourne where the Free State Pubs are why people come to Dublin North of the river, you’ll find a more casually scattered with stacks of cult constitution was drafted in 1922. – which is why the Temple Bar area on In the heart of Temple Bar, the Auld international style of sports bar, such soccer publications (Austrian Ballesterer, Here you can book a genealogist, a the south bank of the Liffey is mobbed Dubliner always gets mobbed on big- as the antipodean Woolshed, with three anyone?) and an astroturf-decked garden therapeutic spa or table at The Saddle every night. For TV football, the par- match weekends while the Bad Ass vast screens and 15 smaller plasma and picnic area. Screens abound.

liberoguide.com 7 IRELAND 2017 Bohemians www.liberoguide.com/bohemians

Dalymount Park

Today’s capacity is around 4,000 and only BOHEMIANS the newest, main Jodi Stand is in full use, roofed and all-seated. Away fans in small numbers will be accommodated here – for derby games with Dublin clubs, the open seating in the Des Kelly Carpets Stand, aka the Shed End, is allocated.

The old-school feel is accentuated by the floodlights, installed at Highbury in 1951 and shipped to Dublin a decade later.

Transport Several buses run to Phibsborough from the city centre. No.4 (direction Harris- town) and No.9 (direction Charlestown) leave from diagonally opposite the

Savoy Cinema on O’Connell Street and The Bohemian take 10-15min to reach Phibsborough Shopping Centre. The No.46A stops Dalymount and announced a €20 50 yards further up O’Connell Street at Prices are set at €15, €10 for seniors Beside Doyle’s at No.159, The Hut dates Bohemians million phased rebuild. Cathal Brugha Street and continues to and students, €5 for under-12s. back to 1852 and does honest pub food of Ireland’s oldest league club still in St Peter’s Church, closer to Dalymount’s beef stew, roast lamb and the like. continuous existence, Bohemians are Ireland’s national football stadium for main entrance, accessed down a narrow Shop based at equally venerable Dalymount more than half a century, Dalymount is alleyway from the North Circular Road. Merchandise available on match nights On match nights, three bars operate Park in Phibsborough. in dire need of a rebuild. This is exactly includes a selection of club badges, under the main Jodi Stand. With its what it will be getting, with a realigned These services run every 15-20min, the scarves, home shirts and tracksuit three large-screen TVs, jukebox and Eternal rivals of Shamrock Rovers, plastic pitch, a new main stand and No.4 hourly Sun. jackets. pool table, the Members’ Bar is open to The Bohs are all about longevity and seating behind each goal. all. It also operates Friday and Saturday tradition. Owned by its members since Tickets Bars nights, and Sunday lunchtimes. For being founded at Phoenix Park in With planning still ongoing – the Tickets are available online at club site Traditional pubs have been in place home fans and neutrals, the Phoenix 1890, the club played its first game at adjoining faceless Phibsborough bohemianfc.com for all home games. at Doyle’s Corner by Dalymount Park Bar puts on post-match live acts and Dalymount in 1901, against long-term shopping centre also needs addressing for over a century. The Bohemian (66 DJs. Renovated in 2017, the Jackie neighbours Shelbourne. – The Bohs play at what was a Pay-on-the-night admission is at the Phibsborough Road) was built for owner Jameson Bar is a more comfortable 40,000-capacity stadium. Here Brady main entrance through the alleyway off John Doyle in 1907. Facing it at No.160, spot for Bohs fans. Last winning the title in 2009, and Giles made their Ireland debuts and the North Circular Road, near St Peter’s John Doyle’s is similar in style and Bohemians secured their future Beckenbauer, Gullit and Paolo Rossi Church. heritage and has TV football. when Dublin City Council purchased played international matches.

liberoguide.com 8 IRELAND 2017 Bray Wanderers www.liberoguide.com/bray-wanderers BRAY WANDERERS Bray (Daly) station Bars Bray’s pre-match bars and restau- rants bask in a seafront location that makes a trip down to the Carlisle Grounds such a worthwhile venture.

Pick of the bunch, The Porterhouse sits the other side of the Sea Life centre, offering beers from its own brew-pub empire that started here shortly after Wanderers gained promotion to the League of Ireland. Now with sister operations across

Bray fans Dublin, London and New York, this original branch remains a favourite, with live bands and TV sport. Carlisle Grounds Tara Street and Pearse stations, on the DART line. Trains run every Back towards Dublin, the Harbour 15min. The last service back to town Bar dates back to 1872 and has been is currently 11.20pm. From Bray patronised by celebrities filming at (Daly) station, head right and the Bray’s Ardmore Studios. Bar, lounge honours in the 1950s before the two ground is straight ahead. and snug, with cosy spaces upstairs, Bray Wanderers clubs merged in 1973. Twelve years it’s a multi-room operation with Could there be a more enchanting later, Wanderers joined the League Tickets regular live music. introduction to Irish football than of Ireland. Tickets are available online (bray- Bray? A glide down the coast from wanderersfc.ie/tickets-info) for up Nearer to the ground, the Hibernia Dublin on the DART rail line, it sits FAI Cup wins in the 1990s took The to three home games in advance. Inn offers sea-facing seating in a goal-kick from the County Dublin- Seagulls to Trabzon and Zürich but General admission is otherwise pay- summer while, alongside, the Ocean Wicklow border, fronted by a row of perhaps a greater achievement has uncovered Railway Side are close to on-the-night, €15, €10 for seniors Bar & Grill is more a spot for a sit- beachside pubs and restaurants, been maintaining top-flight status the DART station. Banking behind and students, €5 for accompanied down meal, beer-battered cod, say. facing the Irish Sea. since 2005. In 2015, amid a quite each goal provides a picturesque children under 12. absurd managerial merry-go-round backdrop rather than spectator If it’s just fish and chips you’re after, Right by Bray (Daly) DART station, and fan protests, Wanderers still accommodation. Officially, capacity is Shop then Capri by the station sources the Carlisle Grounds has hosted finished above the relegation zone. 7,000 but in practice only the 3,000- On match nights, the club shop on its cod from local suppliers daily sport since 1862, the wonderfully plus seats will be in use. the railway side of the Quinsborough – there’s plenty of room to sit down named Bray Unknowns the main Home supporters otherwise gather Road end sells Seagulls badges, and devour. football club here in the early 1900s. in the covered seated stand on the Transport pennants, scarves and T-shirts, plus Formed in 1922, local rivals Bray Seymour Road town side of the Bray (Daly) is 45min from Dublin’s green-and-white home and away Wanderers claimed Leinster League ground. Opposite, away fans on the main train terminal of Connolly, via shirts, shorts and tracksuits.

liberoguide.com 9 IRELAND 2017 St Patrick’s Athletic www.liberoguide.com/st-patricks-athletic

Tom Tavey’s Shop PATRICK’SST ATHLETIC An outlet for St Pat’s merchandise opens by the main stand on match nights, selling home and away tops, scarves, hats and tracksuits, plus DVDs of recent triumphs.

Bars Three key pubs line Emmet Road. Nearest the ground, venerable Rich- mond House/McDowell’s was taken over by the club in 2006 and flies the flags of St Pat’s outside. Inside, it’s pretty standard, with surprisingly few red-and-white souvenirs or parapher- nalia.

Richmond Park On the same side of the street at No.97, Coffey’s has the space to contain a pool table, DJ decks at the together to fund the installation of Transport back, old 45s on one wall and Celtic, Richmond Park the Patrons’ Stand in 2013 – a block The quickest way to Richmond Park is United and Villa shirts on another St Patrick’s of open seats behind the Inchicore to take the LUAS red line to Golden- – Paul McGrath is still a hero around Athletic End goal – Richmond Park has a bridge (25min from Busáras by Dublin Inchicore. The pride of Inchicore, west Dublin, capacity of 5,340. More than half bus station, 10min from Heuston St Patrick’s Athletic won the league of that is seating, 1,800 in the Main station). Walk over the canal, taking Opposite, arguably the best choice at their first attempt in 1952 and have Stand nearest to Emmet Road. Connolly Avenue to the end. It veers pre- and post-match is Tom Tavey’s at never been relegated since. left to meet Emmet Road, with the No.118. More bar than traditional pub, One half is allocated to visiting ground opposite, tucked in behind it features a large mural signalling Often capable of stellar performances supporters, nearest the Shed terraced housing. St Pat’s affection and, somewhat in Europe – a 0-0 draw at Celtic in End, in block A. If more space is bizarrely, a framed programme and 1998 stands out, plus more recent required, say for the LUAS derby with Tickets match ticket from the 1963 FA Cup wins over teams from Sweden, Russia both as a player and manager, Liam Shamrock Rovers on the same light- Tickets are sold during the week of Final. Three Irish internationals and Bosnia & Herzegovina – St Pat’s Buckley serves as an exemplary rail line, away fans are placed behind the game from the office at 125 Em- – Dunne, Cantwell and Giles – played are also the last side from Dublin to figurehead at this well run, the east goal, too. The most vocal met Road near the Richmond House for Manchester United that day lift the Irish title. community club with a solid fan base. home support is in the St Pat’s half pub, and on match night itself. It’s €15 although there’s no story behind the of the Main Stand and on the narrow for adults, €10 for seniors and stu- display, discovered when clearing out Behind the 2013 win and other notable Suitable for staging European open Carmac opposite. dents, €5 for accompanied under-12s. some old junk. achievements at Richmond Park, fixtures since supporters clubbed No children are allowed in otherwise.

liberoguide.com 10 IRELAND 2017 Shamrock Rovers www.liberoguide.com/shamrock-rovers

Shamrock Rovers ROVERS SHAMROCK fans

Shamrock Rovers Megastore

won’t find the kind of traditional pub that you would around Dalymount or St Pat’s. Tallaght Stadium The main pre-match haunt is the bar at the Maldron Hotel, Stir, accessed Transport On a home-match week, it opens through the restaurant of the same Tallaght is at the end of one branch of noon-4pm. The club also distrib- name, which has had the good grace the LUAS red line, directly linked to utes online (www.shamrockrovers. to create a Rovers area in one corner. Stephen Bradley, as the manager to Heuston Station (30min journey time) ie/tickets/2017-match-tickets) on a Team line-ups from the 1940s and Shamrock Rovers bring the title and crowds back to and the bus station, Busáras (45min). match-by-match basis. 1950s, pennants from games with Shamrock Rovers are Ireland’s south Dublin. Real Madrid and Hibernian, and a most titled team. Rescued from Make sure the train is going to Tallaght There’s pay-on-the-night general photo of Alex Del Piero in a hooped dissolution by their fans who now The council-owned Tallaght consists and not Saggart, the other branch – the admission from a kiosk also behind the shirt are all on display. own the club, The Hoops returned to of two stands, East and West along line divides at Belgard shortly before. main stand at €15. Seniors and students their spiritual home of south Dublin, each sideline. Behind the goals, From Connolly station, it’s a 2min walk are charged €10, under-14s €5. Retail strips between the LUAS stop moved into the new-build Tallaght temporary seating can be installed round the corner to Busáras. and the stadium contain chain outlets. Stadium and won back-to-back Irish for any showcase European fixture. Shops On Cookstown Way, the family-run titles. Capacity is otherwise an all-seated Trains run every 5-15min until The Shamrock Rovers Megastore Blazin’ Grill is the nearest to the 6,000. midnight, 11pm on Sun & bank (Mon-Sat noon-4pm) behind the main ground, with a ‘Shamrockers Gather Rovers have since been holidays. stand carries home shirts, away Here’ sticker and the floodlights overshadowed by Dundalk, who Atmosphere is provided by the most shirts, even third shirts, plus hooded in view. Steaks and seafood are its recently bettered the Dublin club’s raucous home fans in the East Stand. From the Tallaght stop, head towards tops, scarves and hats. On match stock-in-trade. Nearby, the more Europa League group-stage Away fans are allocated one side of The Square shopping centre – the nights, another outlet sets up at the bar-like Aussie Outback is a BBQ achievement of 2011. the main West Stand, sections H-J stadium is straight ahead. car park end of the stadium. spot serving monumental burgers on the corner of Kiltipper Road and and standard draught lagers. Spicy Average gates, too, have dipped the dual carriageway, opposite the Tickets Bars Mexican eaterie Perios Grill has seats below Dundalk’s. Rovers now look Maldron Hotel. The ticket officeis near the club shop Tallaght is a new-town suburb, all outside in summer. to former midfielder, 32-year-old on Kiltipper Road, beside the car park. hotels and shopping centres – you

liberoguide.com 11 IRELAND 2017 Ballybofey www.liberoguide.com/ballybofey

Bonner’s Corner Bar Bed BALLYBOFEY Go Visit Donegal (govisitdonegal.com) has a database of accommodation across the county.

Ballybofey has two high-standard hotels. By the Finn, Jackson’s is a four-star with a heated indoor pool, sauna and gym, plus the Garden Restaurant. Nearby, the four-star Villa Rose also has its own spa and restaurant, Fara’s.

Further along Main Street, Rockvale House offers wallet-friendly B&B digs. All six rooms are en-suite.

Beer Villa Rose Anyone’s first port of call should be Barrett’s, opposite the Villa Rose, an honest haunt for hard-drinking sports head at a 2003 relegation play-off. river that divides Ballybofey from hourly buses (4hr journey time) and fans. Ballybofey Derry had been in the top tier since neighbouring gives its regular trains (3hr journey time) but Few football fans outside Ireland know 1987 – Finn Harps were looking to name to Finn Harps. The capacity there’s no way of getting back to the Further down Main Street, Harleys where Ballybofey is – or why they rejoin the elite. An absurdly late at dilapidated is roughly capital via Sligo from Ballbofey after Cheers Bar likes a good party and might have to find it. Older Everton, equaliser from Kevin McHugh, equivalent to the population of the an evening game. Via Letterkenny, puts on DJs. Opposite Alexander’s Derby and Aberdeen supporters, later to join Derry, gave rise to his town it serves. you can leave Ballybofey at 10.30pm store, J McLaughlin’s is a regular though, will remember the name of infamous greyhound impression in and reach Dublin at 5am but it means local, handy for a quick jar. Finn Harps, generous opposition on celebration, mocking the opposition. A new stadium is slowly being built a 3hr stopover. All bus connections random European adventures in the As inflatable sheep floated over over the Finn in Stranorlar but it’s now between Dublin and Ballybofey (4- Behind its bright tangerine exterior, 1970s. Derry’s Brandywell, a hint at Harps’ ten years since planning permission 5hr journey time, €15) require one Bonner’s Corner Bar shows live sport fans rural pastimes, The Candystripes was granted. change, at Letterkenny, Lifford or and offers micro-brewed beers from The Harps are based in Ballybofey but, maintained Premier Division status Donegal Abbey Hotel. independent Bog Hopper from Muff. as their badge suggests, represent with an extra-time winner. Bearings County Donegal as a whole. Way Bus Éireann runs services to Bally- Ballybofey bus stop is by McElhineys Nearby on Glenfin Street itself, up in Ireland’s top left-hand corner, Back hosting top-flight football since bofey from Sligo (every 2hrs, 90min store/Butt Hall Centre on Main Street. McKelvey’s is another live-match Ballybofey rivals Derry in the North- 2015, Ballybofey – one Main Street, journey time, €12 single) and Derry There’s a taxi office (087 262 0446) spot, with DJs on Saturday nights. West Derby, one of the most colourful one bus stop but no train station (hourly, 1hr journey time). Sligo has near the Villa Rose Hotel. in Irish football. Matters came to a – is, in fact, two towns in one. The good connections with Dublin, with

liberoguide.com 12 IRELAND 2017 Finn Harps www.liberoguide.com/finn-harps

Finn Park HARPS FINN

Barca Bar

The two nearest Finn Park, on Navenny Street itself, are also the most convivial choices. The first one you come to, Heeney’s U Drop Inn, has been family-run for the best part of 60 years. Today Michael runs a tidy but eminently friendly ship, part bar, part restaurant, with an extensive menu featuring chargrilled burgers Finn Park and steaks, and framed photos from – if segregation is required, then away pay-on-the-night from the gates on Finn Harps history around the large The setting for these victories was fans stand in the uncovered River End both Navenny Street and Chestnut flat-screen TV. Finn Harps run-down Finn Park, the club’s home and/or Gantry Side opposite the main Road. It’s €12 in, €10 for seniors and A long-lost romantic name on the since before the glory days. It is hoped stand. Some home fans still like to students, €5 for secondary pupils Further down, right by the ground, European football scene, fan-owned that in another eight years, any future occupy the narrow section of open and €3 for under-12s. If you’d like a the ever popular Barca Bar has Finn Harps are from Ballybofey, triumphs will take place at the new terracing at the Town End, backed by seat, then it’s an extra €3 once you’re been serving Harps and away fans with a supporter base across County stadium being built over the river Finn residential housing. inside. for years, a lively, honest drinking Donegal. at Stranorlar, Ballybofey’s adjoining haunt with occasional live acts and a town that houses the local schools Transport Shop superfriendly staff. Though it’s been a while since the and churches. Buses from Letterkenny, Donegal, A modest selection of blue-and- likes of Derby and Everton notched up Sligo and Derry pull in at McElhineys white souvenirs is available from the A visit to Finn Park is not complete double-digit aggregate scores against Back in Ballybofey, Finn Park is a store/Butt Hall Centre on Main portakabin outlet near the home Town without sampling its famous soup, them, The Harps are at least back in short walk from Main Street, where Street. Head for the Villa Rose Hotel End on match nights. dispensed from beside the clubhouse the top flight. In 2015, dramatic late the buses come in. The ground is then turn next left down Navenny by the main stand. There’s more hot winning goals, first against UCD, then effectively one main stand, partly Street. The ground is about 200 yards Bars food available at the Gantry Side after extra-time against Limerick, filled with seating, allocated to all on the left. With Finn Park so close to Main Street, – handy for away fans exposed to the gained the Donegal side a first spectators except in cases such as the and Ballybofey so compact, any of the elements. promotion in eight years. derby with Derry or any play-off game. Tickets half-dozen pubs and bars in town is a Around the main stand are open sides The club has a simple policy of handy stroll pre- and post-match.

liberoguide.com 13 IRELAND 2017 Cork www.liberoguide.com/cork

ney time 30min. They also stop at CORK Evergreen Road, near Turners Cross and terminate at Kent Station, Cork’s train hub.

The hourly train from Dublin Heuston takes 2hr 30-45min, cheapest online single €20. The last one back is at 8.20pm – and it’s not direct. There’s a bus every 2hrs (journey time 3hr 45min, cheapest online single €13) – the last one back is 6pm.

Cork Taxi (+353 21 4 27 22 22) is a reliable local firm.

Bed Cork’s hotels are clustered near the Gresham Metropole SoHo river, in the city centre. The Gresham Metropole is a cut above, a four- City have embraced professionalism, star with access to a pool, sauna Also traditional, Jim Cashman’s Cork summer football and all-seated and gym. Just on the other side of Beer is located on the edge of Cork’s Ireland’s second city of Cork has spectatorship. It hasn’t always been MacCurtain Street, the Hotel Isaacs With plenty of tourists and students, Huguenot Quarter, close to a long been successful at national level smooth, with complex shenanigans Cork is a handy mid-range option Cork is awash with pubs and bars selection of decent restaurants. in and Gaelic football but its needed to extricate the club from with equal (if paid) access to a health showing sports. Almost all, though, soccer history is one of short-lived financial disaster in 2010, but the centre. Nearby, the Brú is a contem- will prioritise a Gaelic football game On the north side of town, convenient clubs wresting occasional silverware Leesiders have been exemplary porary hostel with private rooms as over English Premier League action for the train station, The Shelbourne from the clutches of Dublin. representatives of Irish football well as dorms, a hopping little bar – with the welcome exception of is a handy option with all-day TV in Europe. Bayern Munich, IFK that shows big-screen sports and SoHo, a contemporary spot with a sport and food. There has been a team from Cork in Gothenburg, CSKA Kyiv have all left live music most nights. panoramic rooftop deck and terrace the League of Ireland almost every Cork without a win. overlooking the main drag of Grand Busy in term-time, the student- season since its inauguration in the With views over another side of the Parade. SoHo also sells tickets for friendly Washington Inn also brings early 1920s. But this has involved Bearings Lee, the Imperial Hotel combines Cork City games. in punters with its HD big-screen TV eight clubs in all, including Cork City, Cork Airport is 6.5km (four miles) centuries of tradition with a quality sports action. formed in 1984, Irish champions in south of the city. Bus Éireann spa and upscale dining. Nearby Costigan’s has a covered 1993 and 2005, and runners-up in Nos.226 and 226A run every 30min smoking area with a TV showing live 2016. to Parnell Place station in town Convenient for the bus station, Jurys games – plus plenty of other screens. (lowest fare €5 single online), jour- Inn is reliably upper mid-range.

liberoguide.com 14 IRELAND 2017 Cork City www.liberoguide.com/cork-city

Turners Cross CORK CITY

Horseshoe Inn

Shops Souvenirs are sold at the club shop in the Douglas Village Shopping Centre. There’s also a match-night outlet at the Curragh Road end of the ground.

Turners Cross Bars There’s a handful of pubs along Evergreen Road a reasonably short stroll Curragh Road, built in 2007 on The Shed Tickets to the ground. terrace, remains home to the Rebel Army. Advance tickets are available at the club All-seated and all-covered, Turners Cross shop in the Douglas Village Shopping The party-centric Evergreen Bar at Cork City is the most impressive soccer stadium in Capacity is 6,900. Centre on the outskirts of town, as well as No.35 shows TV football while nearer the Twice league champions, runners-up Ireland outside Dublin. A sports ground fro mthe SoHo bar/restaurant on Grand ground, the Mountain Bar is a traditional from 2014 to 2016, Cork City are one since the 1890s, ‘The Cross’ was home Transport Parade and The Beer Garden pub at spot with horse racing its focus. of the biggest clubs in Ireland in terms to Cork Celtic until the late 1970s before Turners Cross is too far to walk from Turners Cross. of support, professional status and Cork City took it over in 1986. either Kent rail or Parnell Place bus Closer still at No.10, The Beer Garden infrastructure. stations. Bus Nos.226 and 226A that Tickets are also distributed online has the best selection of beers, decent, Not considered part of the ambitious run between the two every 30min call through Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster. good-value food and a pool table. It’s also In 2015, fan-owned Cork attracted the club’s future, it was abandoned for at Evergreen Road, reasonably close to ie). an outlet for match tickets. highest average league gate, boosted by a unloved Bishopstown in 1993. By 1996, Turners Cross stadium. near 7,000 crowd for the visit of Dundalk, all but bankrupt, City returned and within On the day, ticket huts open at the main Long closed, the Turners Cross Tavern their nearest provincial rivals in terms of a decade began to develop it. Now all- From the city centre, and stopping closer, entrance on the Curragh Road. Visiting has been sold and should be under new attendances and recent silverware. seated, Turners Cross comprises four the No.203 runs every 15-30min to supporters have a separate outlet by the ownership soon. stands: Donie Forde houses the press and Curragh Road (Turners Cross), journey St Anne’s Park entrance. In 2016, Cork gained revenge, former family sections, opposite the Derrynane time 15min. Buses leave from St Patrick’s Right by the ground, between the main Dundalk striker Seán Maguire scoring Road Stand, where visiting fans are Street, near the Father Mathew statue, by There’s an across-the-board pricing Donie Forde Stand and home end on the winner to lift the FAI Cup for the allocated two sections nearest the St Marks & Spencer. system of €15, €10 for under-18s, €5 for the Curragh Road, the Horseshoe Inn is Leesiders. Anne’s End. under-13s and seniors. invariably packed on match nights.

liberoguide.com 15 IRELAND 2017 Derry www.liberoguide.com/Derry

Derry The Diamond Beer DERRY For bars near Maginn Park, see Derry City.

In Derry, pubs surround the Richmond Centre mall. Football is screened in one of the three bars that comprise the historic River Inn, revamped in 2016.

Bearings For Dublin-Derry, Bus Éireann On the other side of the mall, the Buncrana is 24km (14.5 miles) north- (No.33)/Ulsterbus (No.U274) have Bentley is a six-bar complex, one west of Derry via the A2/R239, a 5-6 buses a day, journey time 4hrs. that shows matches. The Diamond is drive of 40min. There’s a midnight service back from one of two Wetherspoons in town. the Ulsterbus depot, Foyle Street. City Cabs Derry (+44 28 7126 4466) For an old-school community pub, quotes £16 for the journey. For a Bed The Derby on Great James Street is Buncrana cab, West End Taxis (074 Go Visit Donegal (govisitdonegal.com) a revered spot with TV football. Derry 936 2198) is based near the ground. has hotel information for Buncrana. Across the Foyle, near the train John McGinlay runs two buses every In Buncrana, upscale B&B St station, the Glen Bar (28 Dungiven Stadium undergoes a £7 million day to Buncrana Supervalu store Columb’s House is closest to Maginn Road) has become a real football Derry/Buncrana redevelopment. The arrangement on Cockhill Road from Dublin Hugh Park. Nearby Lake of Shadows is a haunt with two big screens and a full Despite overwhelming difficulties, may extend for the year. Lane Gallery/Parnell Square North lovely mid-range choice with its own schedule. football has survived, even thrived, via Dublin Airport and Derry Water bar and restaurant. in Derry, second city of Northern The situation depends on progress at Street, overall journey time 4.5hrs. Ireland. After a gap of 13 long years the club’s home on Lone Moor Road, The last one back is at 4.30pm. A In Derry, the four-star Maldron out of the senior game, Derry City close to landmarks such as the Free single ticket is €20, return €30, just is close to the bus station, with 90 have been competing with teams Derry Corner and the Bloody Sunday turn up and pay. rooms, a gym and sauna. Its Lyric from south of the border in the Monument. bar shows TV football. Also nearby League of Ireland since 1985. McGonagle runs the No.956 service is superior B&B Townhouse No.8. Football has been played here since from Derry Buscentre in Foyle Street Waterfront four-star City Hotel For 2017, the Candy Stripes are 1900. Derry City moved in shortly to St Mary’s Road in Buncrana, close Derry, with a pool and gym, offers based further north of the border, after their foundation in 1928. Maginn Park, hourly up to 6.10pm, two attractive weekend breaks. way up into County Donegal in the buses on Sundays. Ulsterbus (No.181) Republic. Buncrana in Inishowen It is not yet clear where Derry will has two services a day, Mon-Fri, the Saddler’s House on Great James hosts Derry’s home games at Maginn be hosting Europa League fixtures in last one at 5.40pm. Street is convenient, comfortable and Park while City’s Brandywell summer. affordable. Breakfast is a feast.

liberoguide.com 16 IRELAND 2017 Derry City www.liberoguide.com/derry-city

Candy Stripe Store on match nights at Maginn Park and CITY DERRY through the club website (derrycity- fc.net). Among the replica shirts and pin badges, you’ll find a copy of Gary Ferry’s book ’30 Years of Derry City’ and a DVD of the club’s European adventure in 2006.

Bars Two pubs stand on the Maginn Ave- nue side of Main Street, either side of the turning. The Atlantic Bar dates back to 1792 and attracts a loud- er, party-minded crowd, while the Brandywell low-roofed orange-fronted Cottage Bar (13 Lower Main Street) has a friendlier local atmosphere, with an Benfica, Gothenburg and Paris Saint- Buses drop off at St Mary’s Road older clientele. Derry City Germain to Derry. Nobody is yet – you need parallel Lower Main Derry City are a club apart. The sure where home ties in the 2017-18 Street parallel to it, turning right Better yet, across the street in Candy Stripes of the Brandywell Europa League will take place. at the kebab shop past the Bank of bright, Big-Bird yellow, Roddens (4 have been crowned champions Ireland into Maginn Avenue. The Upper Main Street) is a funky little on both sides of the border, their As for domestic fixtures, it’s looking main entrance to the ground is first place with regular live music. acceptance into the League of like lakeside Buncrana for all the left after 200 metres, the street that Ireland in 1985 coming 20 years after 2017 season. Capacity at Maginn becomes Cluain Mhuire. Back in Derry, football-focused bars winning the title in the North. Park is 2,500. It’s not yet clear what around the Brandywell should still the arrangements will be for away At present, the only options back Celtic Bar open for business through 2017. Currently the supporter-owned club supporters – or, with no public transport after an evening game for those These include the Celtic Bar where is having to skip over the border provided, for home fans either. without a car are to stay in Buncrana Elmwood Street meets Stanleys again, playing home matches at (hotel recommendations in the The 2016 prices for tickets at the Walk, Mary B’s at 42 Elmwood Maginn Park in Buncrana, 15 miles Transport Derry/Buncrana section), cadge a Brandywell were £12 for a seat and Terrace and the Brandywell Bar on north-west of Derry, while the At press-time, Derry City confirmed lift or get a taxi. £10 to stand, seniors and students Brandywell Road. The Bluebell Bar Brandywell is treated to significant that there were no special transport paying £9/£8, under-14s £5/£2. at 130 Lecky Road is another Candy redevelopment. arrangements in place for the 24km Tickets Stripe haunt. trek to – and, more to the point – from Advance sales will still be available Pay-on-the-night will still continue Meanwhile, European football Buncrana. Details of bus services online through ticketmaster (www. in 2017. beckons. League of Ireland titles, in during the day from Dublin and Derry ticketmaster.ie/Derry-City-tickets/ 1989 and 1997, FAI Cups and high- are given in the Derry/Buncrana artist/36067). Shop place finishes have already brought section, as well as taxi numbers. Merchandise should still be available

liberoguide.com 15 IRELAND 2017 Drogheda www.liberoguide.com/drogheda

Welcome to DROGHEDA Drogheda

Clarke’s

Beer Bars abound. In a little hub on Cord Road, behind North Quay, Sars- fields is a great place to start, with

Barlow’s big-screen sports, craft brews and a beer garden. McHugh’s opposite is a more rough-and-ready live venue. top-tier fold in 2016, an achievement Halfway to town, Scholar’s Drogheda welcomed by many a travelling fan. Townhouse Hotel on King Street is as On the same stretch, The Admirals Representing one of Ireland’s most old-school as its 1867 construction on is a traditional spot historic towns, Drogheda United are Bearings suggests – think afternoon teas and for football watching. Clarke’s on a fairly modern construct. Halfway Drogheda MacBride is a main stop fine dining. Peter Street dates to 1900 and feels between Dublin and the border with on the Dublin-Belfast line and trains reassuringly lived-in. the North, Drogheda didn’t take to from Connolly (40min-1hr, fast ser- d hotel In town, the Westcourt on football as quickly as local rival and vice €17 single) are regular. The last West Street is also spiffy but Down by the river, Cagney’s on Dyer fellow railway hub Dundalk. one back is 10.05pm – United Park, contemporary, with boutique rooms, Street makes a convincing case for way north of MacBride, is at least a Tony’s Taxis (freephone 1800 the West29 RestoLounge and cocktail best bar in town, lively, well run and Running out in claret and blue, 30min walk. 606 070) is long-established and spot Barroco, where TV football is with big-screen soccer. Offering Drogheda United were created from centrally located on Stockwell Lane. shown. waterside views, nearby Brú is more a merger in 1975. On their badge, The bus from Dublin Talbot Street bistro, with a cocktail bar upstairs. the star and crescent are a heraldic (No.100X 1hr journey time, No.101 1hr Bed Its competitor, the waterside d hotel reference to King John, who granted 20min) is more frequent and cheaper Tourist resource drogheda.ie has de- in the Scotch Hall centre, is similarly On Dublin Road, Barlow’s Railway Drogheda its charter in the late (€6.65 single). The last one back is tails of local accommodation. four-star and gastro-focused, with Tavern is handy for TV football, 1100s. The colours and emblem 9.30pm but there’s a night service soccer screened at in-house pub Wm affordable drinks, pool and, of have allowed the fan-owned club at 1.45am. Drogheda bus station is The nearest lodging to United Park Cairnes. course, the train station. – nicknamed The Drogs – to twin with nearer the river and 10min closer is Windsor Lodge, a neat, well run Turkish side Trabzonspor. to the ground. Inter-town buses run guesthouse on North Road. It’s past Nearby, the Spoon & Stars is a handy between the bus station and the the stadium heading out of town, so budget choice, a hostel/guesthouse A quick, easy and convivial hop from hospital by the ground, last one back it’s convenient for the ground but not mix run by a friendly couple. Dublin, Drogheda returned to the at 11pm. for pubs and stations.

liberoguide.com 18 IRELAND 2017 Drogheda United www.liberoguide.com/drogheda-united

United Park

middle third of the Windmill Road UNITED DROGHEDA side nearest the halfway line. To one side is a long clubhouse, to the other, covered standing for away supporters nearest the north goal by Cross Lane. Opposite on the west side is a mix of covered and open seating and standing. In theory, the The Windmill House ground should hold 5,000 – in its current configuration and condition, it’s 2,000 with 1,500 seats. Shop A modest selection of merchandise Transport should be available on a match night. United Park is a 35min walk from Drogheda train station, 25min from Bars the bus station, 20min from town centre. The nearest bus stop is If you’re walking up from the town Drogheda Hospital, 5-8min journey centre, at the junction of North Road time from the bus station. Buses in- and Windmill Road, Mother Hughes clude the No.182 to Monaghan (Mon- is a handy pitstop. Drogs fans gather Sat hourly, Sun every 2hrs, last one around its pool table and fire in back 7.30pm) and the No.190 to Trim winter – there’s a beer garden in (hourly, last one back 11pm, 10pm on summer. TV sport is a major focus. Sun). The No.100 runs hourly day- time, the No.189 every 2hrs. The closest pub to the ground, also handier if you’re coming by bus, is Drogheda’s bus and train stations on Rovers and runners-up spot in the A taxi from the town-centre rank on The Windmill House, by the stadium Drogheda United the south side of the Boyne. league the same year. Peter Street should cost €6. car park behind the main stand. In Irish champions in 2007, Drogheda place for a century or more, it has United failed to kick on after falling It sprang to life last autumn when Unable to host the subsequent Tickets long served both United Park and foul of the Revenue Commissioners, Drogheda held on to overcome European tie at United Park, Admission on the night is €15 on the Lourdes Hospital. On match nights, going part-time and nearly going out Cobh Ramblers and Wexford in tight Drogheda had to switch the home Windmill Road side, €12 for seniors home and away fans gather to sink of business. They also dropped plans promotion play-off games for a leg to the Tallaght Stadium in south and students, €10 for under-14s. pints of Carlsberg, watch sport and for a new stadium. return to the Premier in 2016. Dublin. A battling 0-0 draw with Through the turnstiles to the West take advantage of the beer garden in Malmö was commendable – but Stand on Cross Lane, it’s €12, €10 summer. United Park, home of the club’s Supporter-owned Drogheda are United Park is in need of investment. and €5. namesake non-league predecessors always capable of springing a There’s no bar within the ground formed back in 1919, remains cramped surprise – such as the 2012 League The main stand, providing covered There are no advance or online sales. itself. and outdated, and a long trek from of Ireland Cup victory at Shamrock seating for home fans, occupies the

liberoguide.com 19 IRELAND 2017 Dundalk www.liberoguide.com/dundalk

Welcome to DUNDALK Dundalk

The Bar Tender

walk from Oriel Park – Long Walk bus terminus is around 15min.

Dundalk town centre is compact. If you need a taxi, call Sevens on 042 93 77777.

Bed Dundalk Tourist Office has details of local hotels and B&Bs at louthholidays.com. Russell’s Saloon once hosted Celtic, Spurs and Liverpool Dundalk in major European fixtures. With Dundalk Close to Oriel Park, across Halfway between Dublin and Belfast, now forging ahead in Europe further than Carrickmacross Road, the Innisfree Beer Craft brews are also served at The Bar Dundalk is Ireland’s soccer town. any Irish team before them, more and Guest House offers comfortable rooms in Anne Street and Park Street are lined Tender that recently celebrated its tenth While the rest of the Republic goes in more foreign visitors will be taking the an Edwardian townhouse. with pubs and bars. From the railway anniversary. Nearby stands M Courtney’s, for Gaelic football, hurling and rugby, convivial train journey up the coast from station end, Jockeys focuses on racing an old-school pub barely changed since Dundalk displays the lilywhite shirts of its Dublin Connolly station. On the town centre side of the train but has a back room for football. the 1800s. local soccer team across town. Barber station, Glen Gat House is another Quality home-made food is another shops, grocery stores and pubs bear the Bearings welcoming and affordable lodging while bonus. Across the road, the Big House/ Corner sports bar Jimmy’s proudly three mythical martlets of current Irish From Dublin airport, an hourly Bus round the corner, the Lismar is a B&B McGuinness also goes big on TV sport displays Dundalk shirts in the windows. champions Dundalk FC. Éireann service takes 1hr 15min to reach with serviced apartments. – though sadly its beer signs (Harp, On the other side of the road, the Phoenix Dundalk’s Long Walk station (online Macardles) are nods to a moribund local features traditional music. Below the The Lilywhites were the first to break the €9 single/€13 return), right by central The main hotel in the town centre is the industry. Hotel Imperial, Parkes Bar is still regular capital’s monopoly on the domestic game, Market Square. old-school Imperial, recently put up for haunt for sports-watching students and are now Ireland’s most titled club sale at €1 million-plus but currently On the same side, popular Brubakers is – though any hotel sale might change this. outside Dublin. The train from Dublin Connolly still accepting guests in its 50 rooms more bar-like and keeps longer hours. runs every 1-2hrs, journey time 1hr, and Parkes sports bar downstairs. If Alongside, Russell’s Saloon is a tasteful In a quieter part of the town centre, Dundalk’s Oriel Park is considered the online single €20, online return €30. you’re barhopping along Park Street, you revamp of a much-loved old bar, with craft McKeowns is a great spot for sports and Home of Football. This venerable ground Dundalk (Clarke) station is a short couldn’t be better placed. and German beers. communal imbibery.

liberoguide.com 20 IRELAND 2017 Dundalk FC www.liberoguide.com/dundalk-fc

Oriel Park Dundalk station Oriel Park FC DUNDALK

recently published Dundalk miscellany ‘C’Mon the Town’ among the replica shirts, scarves and hats.

Bars revered Oriel Park as the Home of Kennedy’s, aka the Railway Bar, has been Dundalk FC Football. in place for generations. Set at the junction Dundalk FC have boldly gone where no of station walkway and Carrickmacross other Irish team has gone before. Ambi- Since the much-needed 2005 revamp, Road, it has been modernised by the cur- tious young manager Stephen Kenny has capacity is 4,500, 3,000 seated in the rent management, and is now a comforta- transformed the Lilywhites. Astonishing stands facing each other across a FieldTurf ble and spacious place to watch the game results in both European competitions in artificial pitch. The Main Stand is nearest the pubs of Park Street and Anne Street, on the big screen, warm yourself by one of 2016 took the Irish champions to within Carrickmacross Road with turnstiles for then towards the train station from the two fires and tuck into a home-made meal touching distance of potential Champions home and away fans, visiting supporters roundabout. – Dundalk manager Stephen Kenny is a League match-ups with Barcelona, Real accessing standing and seating places regular diner. Madrid or Juventus. The subsequent win through the gate furthest from town. Tickets and draw in the group stage of the Europa Cash-only tickets are available on the day A photo of his team is posted by the bar, League represent unprecedented achieve- The South Side, aka The Shed, has also at the turnstiles on Carrickmacross Road, lined with taps of Peroni, Carlsberg and ments for any League of Ireland club. covered seating. Oriel Park now meets €20 (€15 discounts) for the Main Stand, Hop House 13 lager. Old prints of Dundalk UEFA requirements for an overall 3,000 Kennedy’s €15 (€5-€10) elsewhere. Although there also feature. A beer garden opens in Three days after taking Zenit St Petersburg within any given ground. are no online sales, advance purchase is summer. to the wire in the Europa League, Dundalk usually available in the week running up to sealed a third consecutive Irish title. There are also standing places at each end. then right again. The stadium is on the match day. At the ground, the Lilywhite Lounge same side of the road as the pub, past the under the Main Stand and Enda McGuill While staging major European fixtures Transport petrol station. Shop Suite open on match days and for special in Dublin – 30,000 witnessed the 2016 Oriel Park is less than ten minutes from A merchandise outlet opens on match occasions. Drinks are also served at the Champions League play-off with Legia Dundalk (Clarke) train station – turn Those arriving by bus to the Long Walk days below the town end of the Main Town Bar outlet by the merchandise shop Warsaw at the Aviva – Dundalk consider right up to Kennedy’s and the main road, should head towards Market Square, past Stand, with items such as Jim Murphy’s at the station end of the Main Stand.

liberoguide.com 21 IRELAND 2017 Galway www.liberoguide.com/galway

Welcome to Galway On the walk from station to stadium, the

20-bed Woodquay Hostel is handy for GALWAY nightlife.

By Ceannt station, the Meyrick is a classic railway hotel, spiffy and modernised.

Beer Bars fill the city centre, particularly a hub fanning out from Cross Street.

Old-school Dew Drop Inn (aka Myles Lee) on Mainguard Street is always busy, particularly for live sport. Seven Bridgestreet is more contemporary, Án Púcán with match action on big screens, quality food and a live agenda.

Aston Villa in 1981, died of a heart attack Bus Éireann runs the No.20 (4hr 20min) Hotel Meyrick Over the river on Dominick Street, Galway in 2012. The Terryland ground where and X20 (3hr 20min) hourly from Dublin landmark Monroe’s has been providing Such is the high profile of sport in Deacy had played would take his name. Busáras (€10.50 single), last service live music and sport for generations. Galway that an FAI commission insisted back 9.30pm. GoBus and CityLink are that Ireland’s fourth city be represented So, local Mervue United, who had quicker (2hr 30min), slightly dearer and Near , The Cellar on in the League of Ireland. battled to a promotion play-off in 2013, return earlier. Both offer direct services Eglinton Street fills with drinkers, diners were downgraded, as were from Dublin Airport. and football-watchers, with music five This was in 2012. Galway United, headed Devon, and Galway FC were created. nights of the week. The Skeff is a local by CEO Nick Leeson of Barings Bank A year later they won promotion and Galway’s central Eyre Square is the institution, nine sports screens in six infamy, had collapsed with five-figure became Galway United. hub for trains into Ceannt station bars, DJs, burgers and late cocktails. It debts. The club had last won significant and local and national Bus Éireann Bed also has 24 en-suite guestrooms and a silverware, the FAI Cup, in 1991. Today’s Park, services. Other companies use the coach This Is Galway (thisisgalway.ie) has an whiskey cellar. surrounded by fields on Galway’s terminus on nearby Forster Street. attractive hotel database. Yet this was Galway, home of showcase northern outskirts, is a prime club Across the square, An Púcán is a prime horse racing, hurling and GAA. Surely ground, done out in Tribesmen maroon. For limited transport options to the On Headford Road nearest the ground, spot for sports, with two drop-down there should be a flagship soccer club? ground 25min walk away, see Galway Menlo Park is a nice four-star known for projectors and late-night live sounds. Bearings United. Big O Taxis (091 58 58 58) is its Bar Beoga – the trendier Nox offers There was an emotional pull as well. Hourly daytime trains from Dublin Heuston based on Eyre Square. live sport and burger deals. The nearby Galway’s own Eamonn Deacy, an FAI Cup take 2hr 20min (cheapest single €18, last Maldron houses a six-room spa and the winner in 1991, a League champion with service back 7.20pm, first back 5.30am). Point Bar for sport-watching in comfort.

liberoguide.com 22 IRELAND 2017 Galway United www.liberoguide.com/galway-united

Eamonn Deacy Park Shop UNITED GALWAY Near the ticket window, a club shop on Dyke Road opens on match nights, selling bobble hats (remember those?), scarves, pin badges and replica tops, home (maroon), away (white) and third- choice (black).

Bars With the ground way up on Galway’s north outskirts, near a retail park, there’s little by way of pubs and bars. Hotels within a reasonable walking distance, such as the Menlo Park and Nox (see Galway Bed) compensate with bars open to non-guests. Dáil Bar Two venues on Woodquay at the northern edge of the city centre serve debt. Despite the efforts of the Galway eve to the Menlo Park Hotel (Coolough as pre-match pitstops. Formerly The Galway United United Supporters Trust, the senior team Road stop). From there, it’s still a 10min Goalpost and a more downbeat spot Reformed in 2013, renamed in 2014, folded. walk, but it’s handy for the hotel bar, for sports fans, The Caribou is now all Galway United can trace their roots back even post-match – services back to Eyre craft brews and funky furniture. Nearby to 1937 – and Galway Rovers. Based at Soon after, Deacy died suddenly. The Square run past 11pm. McSwiggan’s runs a decent restaurant Terryland Park – today’s Eamonn Deacy ground was renamed with a testimonial and serves affordable Guinness. Park – Rovers only joined the League of visit by Villa. A taxi from Eyre Square shouldn’t be Ireland 40 years later. Fittingly, Deacy, more than €6. Key place in town is United sponsors later an Irish international and title winner As Mervue United moved in and moved up The Dáil Bar in Middle Street, with with Aston Villa, scored the first senior the First Division table, plans were afoot Tickets memorabilia on display and football on league goal there. to revive a single, flagship club: Galway over 1,000. Capacity is 5,000, 3,300 Advance tickets are available online at TV. There’s regular live music, DJs at FC. seated in two facing covered stands, ticketmaster.ie and during the day of the weekends and a full menu. Players and Rovers only began challenging for away fans occupying the Scoreboard End match from the office on Dyke Road. On management are known to drop in for honours after a name change to United in Immediately promoted to the Premier, the sectors of the North Stand with their own match nights, turnstiles open here and, meet-the-fans evenings. 1981. This golden period was capped by club reclaimed its past by adopting the ticket office and turnstiles. for away fans, at the north-east corner of the FAI Cup win of 1991, with Deacy back name United. the ground. in the fold. Transport Playing on an award-winning pitch, the The ground is a 25min walk from town via Admission is €15, €10 for seniors, Even with a new main stand at Terryland Tribesmen have maintained top-flight Dyke Road. From stop 2 on Eyre Square, students and unwaged (ID required), €5 Park, the club then slumped, mired in status though average gates hover just the No.407 bus runs half-hourly/hourly for under-12s.

liberoguide.com 23 IRELAND 2017 Limerick www.liberoguide.com/limerick

The George Those near Colbert, such as Flannerys LIMERICK independent, superior three-star Pery’s, are handy for . The boutiquey George houses a notable Italian restaurant.

Round the corner, the five-star Savoy provides luxury lodging, dining and spa treatments. Swish waterfront Absolute offers all three with contemporary touches. The nearby Still House Bar riverside Pier provides match-days specials in its Quays Bar. Across the On O’Connell Street, Gleeson’s White water, the four-star Strand has a pool House of 1812 vintage was recently 8.45pm). Rival Dublin Coach (€10) is and multi-venue dining. sold and may yet become a sports bar, half-hourly, last one back 8.45pm, to former regulars’ chagrin. night service at 1.45am. By Shannon Bridge, modern, mid- range Limerick City houses the main On Augustinian Lane, alternative The regular train from Dublin Heuston sports bar in town, McGettigan’s. spot Mickey Martins has TV sport (single €10-€13, last one back 8.45pm) Alongside, the Clayton Limerick and music, the main focus at the takes 2hr 15min, changing at Limerick overlooks the Shannon from its nearby Still House Bar, both lively and foundation year of 1937 on its badge, Junction at Tipperary, with 3-4 direct panoramic heated pool. formidable choices. Limerick Markets Fields previously witnessed services a day. Limerick means . two title-winning seasons 20 years Beer On Lower Glentworth Street, the Towering over the ever-changing apart. Bus and train terminus Colbert on Rugby-focused pubs abound, with TV Glen Tavern is another sport haunt, skyline of Ireland’s third largest Parnell Street is close to the city soccer also featured. On Upper Den- with a quality menu and musicians at city, is revered in the The second in 1980 granted a glamour centre and 10min from Markets Field. mark Street by bar weekends. oval-ball game. Soccer’s 2016 First European Cup tie with Real Madrid, Bus Éireann also runs local routes. hub are traditional favourites Nancy Division champions Limerick FC were the home leg staged in Dublin. A Blake’s and Flannerys, where the last based here while Markets Field, year later, Southampton came to Treaty Cabs (061 415 566) is based modern bar screens sport and a roof a sports ground since the 1880s, was Limerick, shortly before The Super near Colbert station. terrace catches the sun. Mother Mac’s being rebuilt. Blues’ controversial move from their is a new craft-brew pub in a 1787-dat- southside sanctuary. Bed ed building. Smyths offers live match Another new development in this Website limerick.ie has local accom- action, drinks deals and music. dynamic estuary hub of gleaming Bearings modation details. Limerick’s contem- hotels and offices, Markets Field A frequent Bus Éireann service runs porary hotels reflect the city’s new On nearby shop-lined Cruise’s Street, reopened in 2015. Spiritual and now from Shannon Airport (Expressway dynamic, while everyone else has had Charlie Chaplin’s (No.42) is centrepieced sole home of a club that has changed journey time 30min, single €7) and to up their game. by TV sport though manned by names four times but retains its Dublin (3hr, single €11, last one back enthusiastic bouncers after dark.

liberoguide.com 24 IRELAND 2017 Limerick FC www.liberoguide.com/limerick-fc

Markets Field FC LIMERICK

Markets Field

Tickets Street, known to sponsor occasional Online sales are for season tickets only. matches and organise meet-the-play- ers sessions with fans. Admission is paid on the night, €15 to sit in the North Stand, €12 to stand Closer to the Markets Field, and on the Popular Side and, for away somewhat more rough and ready, The It’s a huge investment in a football main all-seated North Stand and the supporters, on the West Terrace. Track Bar on Greenhill/Garryowen Limerick FC club whose home town is rugby mad standing Popular Side opposite. Away Seniors and students pay an across- Road is a hangover from the days when First Division champions in 2016, – and whose last league title was won supporters are allocated the West the-board €10, under-12s €5. there was greyhound racing at the Limerick FC are looking forward to a first back in 1980. Terrace, backdropped by Ireland’s tallest ground. Next door, busy Fuscoe’s is full season in the top tier back at Markets church tower atop St John’s Cathedral. Corporate seats are available for €20 and ideal for pre-match chips. Field. Keeping faith with Martin Russell Founded in 1937, the same year that €13 respectively, under-12s charged €7. as manager may prove the key to survival greyhounds starting racing at the former Transport If you’re looking for a quieter pre- or with the big boys. A league champion as Gaelic games ground near Colbert Markets Field is on Garryowen Road, Away fans have their own ticket outlet post-match pint, then the Square a player on both sides of the border with station, Limerick have often struggled conveniently close to Colbert. Exit on a corner of Mulgrave Street. Bar at 6 St John’s Square behind the Portadown and St Pat’s, Russell has been to bring in consistent revenue. Name the station right, then right again Cathedral is a handy find, and flies in place since July 2014 and seen many changes – City, United, 37 – reflect after 250 metres down Sexton Street. Shop flags for Limerick FC. changes at Markets Field. frequent financial disarray. Follow it to the end – at the junction, On match nights, a club shop is set up head for The Horse & Hound bar, then near the main stand, with a modest selec- Finally, The Horse & Hound at Away from their spiritual home for over But, unlike at Munster rivals Cork, there keep going down Mulgrave Street, tion of shirts, scarves and baseball caps. the corner of Mulgrave Street and 30 years, The Super Blues are now the was always one soccer club representing turning first left into Rossa Avenue. Cathedral Place does decent pub food anchor tenant at the 3,000-capacity Limerick. The ground is at the other end. Allow Bars and provides a convenient stop-off to stadium, reopened in June 2015 after a 15min. It wouldn’t be more than €8 in The classic pre-match meeting spot or from Colbert station. €4.5 million redevelopment. At Markets Field, its fans gather in the a taxi. is Jerry O’Dea’s Bar at 17 Mulgrave

liberoguide.com 25 IRELAND 2017 Sligo www.liberoguide.com/sligo

Welcome to Sligo SLIGO

Garavogue Bar

the junction of Lord Edward Street and the N4 dual carriageway that links with the M4 motorway and the M50 around Dublin. You arrive south of the river Garavogue, a short walk to the town centre and even shorter to the Showgrounds. Six buses run daily from Dublin (4hrs, €14 single). If The Swagman you’ve come for an evening kick-off, there’s a service back at 1am. The Football was first played here at train from Dublin Connolly is quicker sauna, and the Orient Express bar. To carry the night on, cross the Sligo Forthill Park in the 1890s between (3hrs) but more expensive, cheapest The family-run Railway Hostel offers footbridge over the river to the Facing out to the Atlantic from its teams of British Army soldiers advance singles €18, regular price dorm beds, twins and doubles. Garavogue Bar, Sligo’s prime party vantage point on Ireland’s west coast, stationed nearby. There are still around €25. The last service back is spot, with big-screen sport as well as the county town of Sligo has long pitches there today. After watching 7pm, the first in the morning 7am. In the town centre, the newly DJs, live acts and cocktails. flown the flag for football rather than these early games, locals formed renovated Sligo City Hotel encourages rugby or GAA – surfing is also a major Junior teams such as Sligo Town and For a cab call Sligo Taxis on 086 121 football-weekend stays with its Don’t leave Sligo without visiting activity these days. Sligo Blues. 9111. Quays bar/restaurant. Nearby chic, Hargadon’s, part pub, part wine store, contemporary Glasshouse, lapped part Michelin-praised restaurant, all dark Run as a people’s co-operative, Sligo In 1928, Town and Blues became the Bed by the Garavogue, offers cocktails in wood and dating back to 1868. Alongside Rovers have a fan base that extends Reds of Sligo Rovers, nicknamed Sligo Tourism (www.sligotourism.ie) has the upper-floor View Bar and award- on O’Connell Street, Tricky McGarrigle’s across the North West and beyond. thereafter as The Bit o’Red, in fact. Six a database of local accommodation. winning cuisine. is a local focal point for music. Support at the age-old Showgrounds, years later they joined the League of the club’s home since its foundation, Ireland – in 1937 they became the first The best-located lodging for the Beer Round the corner on Wine Street, is colourful and choreographed, visual club from outside Leinster to win it. Showgrounds is the landmark four- Cavernous riverside Fiddler’s Creek is The Swagman is football-friendly and vocal. It will have impressed visitors star Great Southern Hotel, a classic the main Rovers bar in Sligo, big on TV and late-opening, with a beer garden from Trondheim and Trnava, here for Bearings former railway hotel by the bus and football, live entertainment and home- and the occasional BBQ. Craft brews, European fixtures relatively recently. Sligo’s train and bus stations are at train stations, with a pool, gym and made food at its adjoining restaurant. too.

liberoguide.com 26 IRELAND 2017 Sligo Rovers www.liberoguide.com/sligo-rovers

Showgrounds Forza Rovers SLIGO ROVERS SLIGO

and there for good measure, the bar gives pride of place to a Ryder Cup bib signed by Paul McGinley.

Rafferty’s, the station bar opposite the bus ramp, is fine to slake a post-journey thirst, though it might O’Neils be worth holding out until O’Neills sports bar at the corner of Wolfe Tone Street and Church Hill. Around Things have calmed down since – Transport fans. Admission is €15, €10 for se- a large main bar and cosier lounge Sligo Rovers though not, of course, in the Jinks The Showgrounds are near Sligo’s niors and students, €5 for under-12s. with a pool table, no position is Community-run Sligo Rovers have a Avenue Stand, half a riot of red train and bus stations. Cross Lord too much of a stretch to clock a TV fan culture second to none in Ireland. created by the Forza Rovers ultras, Edward Street, walk up Wolfe Tone Shop screen with Sky Sports News on Rewarded relatively recently with a league half competing away support. Street, turn right at O’Neill’s and As you enter through the turnstiles, stream. Bonus points for the Mona title and FAI Cup, these fans provide the Opposite, the main stand is similarly continue up Church Hill. The ground you’ll see a match-day shop to your Lisa clad in Rovers scarf. venerable Showgrounds with colourful covered and all-seated. At the is five minutes ahead. Don’t approach left, stocking replica shirts, scarves displays in the club’s signature red. Volkswagen-sponsored Railway End, via Lord Edward Street – this sends and sundry souvenirs. With no alcohol at the ground, a further 1,300 open seats brings you round the houses into the Treacy Mooneys is the designated and Rovers, aka The Bit o’Red, were the total to 4,000. Beyond tower the housing estate before re-emerging Bars thankfully spacious supporters’ bar, galvanised in 2012 by ex-QPR peaks of Benbulbin – you’re in Sligo further up Church Hill at Mooneys If not rushed for time before kick-off, just past the turnstiles on Church defender Ian Baraclough. A full country. bar. cross the busy N4 dual carriage- Hill. A treasure trove of signed house here of 5,600 saw his side way to the left of the station exit jerseys, scarves, pennants, like any beat St Pat’s to lift Sligo’s first Irish The Showgrounds are three-sided Tickets for Donaghy’s, the bar attached to good Irish pub, it features an old bike title for 35 years. A year later, a – the former home Shed End is now Advance purchase is usually for award-winning restaurant Coach hanging from the ceiling. Waiting at heartstopping climax to the FAI Cup an open space. European matches and title deciders. Lane. Plastered in battered bric- the bar allows you to brush up on final saw Sligo lead Drogheda 2-1, Pay cash at the turnstiles on Church à-brac, old Bovril and Colman’s Rovers history from the newspaper get pegged to 2-2 then win 3-2. Hill – separate for home and away Mustard signs, a Rovers scarf here murals painted on the wall.

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