what to do • where to go • what to see

July 3–16, 2006 TheeOfOfficficiaiaiall GuidGuideetoto BOSTBOSTONON

ummerummer S INBOSTOSTONON 25 Great Ways to Beat the Heat

www.panoramamagazine.com

contents DEPARTMENTS COVER STORY 8 around the hub 8 NEWS & NOTES 21 Summertime, 12 ON EXHIBIT 14 NIGHTLIFE Summertime 16 STYLE BeaBeatt the heat in the Hub with 18 DINING outdoor festivities and fair 19 ON STAGE weather foods 20 KIDS CORNER 27 the hub directory 28 CURRENT EVENTS 36 CLUBS & BARS 39 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 44 MAPS BAKED AND BOILED: A genuine New England 50 FREEDOM TRAIL clambake can be had at 52 SIGHTSEEING Jasper White’s Summer Shack in Cambridge. 56 EXCURSIONS Refer to story, page 21. 59 SHOPPING PHOTO BY S EACIA PAVAO 64 RESTAURANTS 80 NEIGHBORHOODS

94 5 questions with… Local philanthropist DAVID MUGAR

on the cover: Ruby Dunlea drinks in the sights and sounds of summer in Beantown. Photo: Bob Perachio www.RDPphotography.com Stylist: Jennifer Dunlea ___ JULY 3–16, 2006 3

The Official Guide to BOSTON www.panoramamagazine.com

July 3–16, 2006 Volume 56 • Number 3

Jerome Rosenfeld • CHAIRMAN Tim Montgomery • PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

Christine Celli • EDITOR Scott Roberto • ART/PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Josh B. Wardrop • ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sharon Hudak Miller • ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Heather S. Burke • PHOTO EDITOR Marketa Hulpachova • EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Della Huff, Heidi Moesinger, Seacia Pavao, Bob Perachio • CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Sarah Brickley, Alex Harris, Erin La Rosa • EDITORIAL INTERNS

Jacolyn Ann Firestone • VICE PRESIDENT, ADVERTISING Rita A. Fucillo • DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AND PUBLIC RELATIONS Tyler Montgomery, Helen Lin • ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Vanessa Montenegro, Robin Bousquet • SALES/MARKETING INTERNS

Paul Hurst • NATIONAL ADVERTISING SALES HURST & ASSOCIATES, INC. 800-397-8908 • [email protected]

Peter Ng • INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY MANAGER Melissa J. O’Reilly • BUSINESS MANAGER George Ghareeb • TECHNICAL CONSULTANT

PANORAMA is published bi-weekly by Jerome Press Publications Inc. Editorial and advertising offices at 332 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02210. Telephone (617) 423- 3400. Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced with- out written permission of the publisher. PANORAMA is a member of the Massachusetts Lodging Association, The Back Bay Association, The Greater Boston Chamber of Commerce, The Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau, Cambridge Chamber of Commerce, the Greater Boston Concierge Association, the Harvard Square Business Association, the Newbury Street League and the Downtown Crossing Association. PANORAMA is audited by BPA Worldwide, an independent audit bureau recognized by the American Association of Advertising Agencies.

a magazine affiliate ______6 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 7 Panorama_June_paths.indd 1 5/17/06 1:53:12 PM

calendar of events aroundthehubby Josh B. Wardrop WEDNESDAY, JULY 5 news¬es Here’s one cloudburst that won’t spoil your vacation plans! The North Shore Music Theatre, with its unique theatre-in-the-round arrangement, debuts the light-hearted classic Singin’ in the Rain. Refer to listing, page 35.

SUNDAY, JULY 9 & MATERIAL GIRL MONDAY, JULY 10 HITS HUB The star of the hit UPN series “The It would have been so easy Parkers,” Mo’Nique, makes her only to write off Madonna (pic- New England appearance this sum- tured above) when she mer at the Comedy Connection in moved to England, leaving Faneuil Hall at 7 and 9:15 p.m. both behind boundary-pushing nights. Refer to listing, page 28. pop stardom for a country manor, yoga and Kabbalah WEDNESDAY, JULY 12 studies. Enjoy the soulful sounds of up-and- But then she drops the coming songstress Robin McKelle, pretentiousness and goes who performs as part of the Berklee and records a truly great College of Music’s annual Swingin’ Fireworks going Fourth to Southie? album like last year’s in Mothers Rest free, outdoor con- dance-centric Confessions cert series at 6:30 p.m. Refer to list- s thousands of revelers gather along the Charles River Esplanade for Boston’s annu- on A Dancefloor, and every- ing, page 32. A al Fourth of July fireworks and concert by the Boston Pops (refer to story, page 21), thing is right in the world city officials and event planners are discussing at least a temporary relocation of the again—particularly here in THURSDAY, JULY 13– X

event to South Boston by 2008. Boston, where Madonna’s SUNDAY, JULY 16 SO

With extensive reconstruction planned for major roadway Storrow Drive—which runs world tour arrives at the TD With Gold Glover Eric Chavez at the ED R hot corner and 2005 Rookie of the alongside the site of the Esplanade and the DCR Hatch Shell—set to begin in late 2007, Banknorth Garden on July ON

event organizers have explored moving the event to Joseph Moakley Park near the South 6, 9 & 10. Year Huston Street in the bullpen, the OST Boston waterfront for the 2008 holiday and perhaps several years afterward, depending Unlike Madonna’s last Oakland Athletics won’t go down B

on the length of the project. Fireworks—which currently are launched from the Charles tour, which covered mainly easily when they take on Trot Nixon THE River—could be launched from barges situated off Carson Beach. her catalogue of greatest (pictured) and the Boston Red Sox at OF

Though nothing’s yet been set in stone regarding a change in venue, Mayor Thomas hits, this time around the Fenway Park at 7:05 p.m., 2:05 p.m. TESY Menino has gone on record in favor of the move, telling the Boston Globe on May 12 that focus is on booty-shaking, on Sunday. Refer to listing, page 33. COUR “It’s a win-win for everyone. Why wouldn’t (South Boston residents) want it? They could with Madge unleashing a sit on their front porch and watch.” techno-disco cavalcade of FRIDAY, JULY 14 Boston’s Fourth of July celebrations—some of the largest such festivities in the coun- Confessions hits such as Beantown gets a taste of the Big try—have been held on the Esplanade since 1973 and annually draw huge crowds of “Sorry” and “Hung Up,” as Easy this summer, as the legendary Bostonians and visitors from all across the nation and beyond. well as up-tempo classics jazz musicians of The Dirty Dozen like “Lucky Star,” “Ray of Brass Band perform aboard the news & notes 8 • on exhibit 12 • nightlife 14 • Light” and, of course, “Like Rock and Blues Summer Concert A Virgin.” Cruise at 7:30 p.m. Refer to listing, style 16 • dining 18 • on stage 19 • kids corner 20 ___ cont. on page 10 >> page 32. ___ ABOVE PHOTO BY B ILL B RETT 8 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 9

around the hub NEWS & NOTES

per replica. For more information, visit www.Americas400 thanniversary.com.

STICKS OF GLORY From April to October, Boston sports fans find it hard to focus on much other than the Red Sox, but there is another game being played in town right now. Major League Lacrosse has a franchise here in Boston—the Boston Cannons, who play at Boston University’s Nickerson Field—and on July 6, the Hub will also be home to the 2006 Major League Lacrosse All-Star Game. This season’s match pits the best players in the MLL against the members of the U.S. National Lacrosse team, who’ll be tuning up for their participation in the 2006 International Lacrosse Federation World << cont. A limited number a $2.6 million replica of Championship. And of these from page 9 of tickets are said one of the original three lacrosse luminaries, six to still be available ships that brought settlers will be members of the for the shows. Refer to the early Virginia colony hometown Cannons—Chris to listing, page 32. of Jamestown in 1607— Fiore, Mike Battista, Conor arrives in Boston as part of Gill (pictured above) and a 400th anniversary sailing Chris Passavia for the MLL FROM JAMESTOWN tour along the East Coast. All-Stars and Ryan Curtis TO BEANTOWN During its time in and Chris Garrity for the Those of you who’ve been Boston, members of the National squad. waiting for your ship to Godspeed’s landing party So, if you’re shut out of come in need wait no will stage free live per- this month’s Sox games, longer, as Boston welcomes formances and invite visi- why not take this chance to the arrival of the tall ship tors to view historical check out some of Boston’s Godspeed from July 14–19 exhibits and cultural dis- other top athletes in at Fan Pier in South plays and take dockside action? Refer to listing, ___ Boston. The Godspeed— tours of the tri-sailed clip- page 34. 10 PANORAMA

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around the hub ON EXHIBIT by Scott Roberto The Vive La Mother France! of All Exhibits , , 2006

AMERICANS IN PARIS ALET Museum of Fine Arts IVIÈRE Through September 24 STIV R E A hen L DE Wthe ABETH LIZ painting RÈS E P commonly known as UN VOYAGE EN FRANCE “Whistler’s Mother” was bought by the French govern- Axelle Fine Arts Galerie Newbury ment in 1891, James McNeill Whistler—the expatriate 91 Newbury St. 617-450-0700 American artist who was born in nearby Lowell—truly July 14–28 arrived as an artist of international stature. But he wasn’t the only American to make his (or her) mark in The French may not be fashion- the French capital, which, in the 19th century, became able in certain American circles, the center of the art world. Fellow exiles such as Mary but here in Boston, we have long Cassat and Boston’s own John Singer Sargent were also had a healthy appreciation for all drawn to the city by the Seine, either as permanent res- things Gallic. And at Axelle Fine idents or as students. The MFA’s new exhibit highlights Arts on Newbury Street—which the work of these frequent travelers from the years presents the best contemporary 1860–1900, when Paris was the place to be for any art France has to offer—it’s all aspiring artist. Refer to listing, page 39. French all the time. Its latest exhibit, Un Voyage en France, acts as a showcase for many of the LIVING gallery’s most renowned artists, AMONGST who celebrate their homeland THE DEAD with their own unique depictions of its landscapes and cityscapes. DWELLING: MEMORY, To celebrate the opening of the ARCHITECTURE AND PLACE Forest Hills Cemetery show, Axelle—in a move that Through October 31 comes as no surprise—hosts a reception on that most French of Although it is the final rest- holidays, Bastille Day, on July 14 ing place of many, includ- from 5–8 p.m. Inspired by the art- ing playwright Eugene work, the festivities feature wine O’Neill and abolitionist and cheese from each of the William Lloyd Garrison, regions from where the artists— Forest Hills Cemetery has life in it yet. Often the site of con- including emerging creators temporary art exhibits, Forest Hills currently hosts an outdoor Yves Crenn and Albert Hadjiganev, show featuring works from artists such as Christopher Frost as well as established stars like (pictured above) that explore the Victorian idea of the ceme- Michel Delacroix, Elisabeth tery as a “home” for the dead where the living can com- Estivalet and Andre ___ mune with those who lie beneath. Refer to listing, page 52. Boubounelle—originate. TOP LEFT: JAMES A BBOTT M C N EILL W HISTLER, A RRANGEMENT IN G REY AND B LACK, 12 PANORAMA N O . 1: PORTRAIT OF THE A RTIST’ S M OTHER, 1871, COURTESY OF THE MFA, BOSTON

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around the hub NIGHTLIFE Cocktail of the Week

Beantown or Margaritaville?

JIMMY ick’s Last Resort is known for its tacky BUFFET-LOVERS PARROTHEAD PARTY Ddécor, rude waitstaff and napkin throw- Dick’s Last Resort, Quincy ing. But once a year, the rambunctious Market, Faneuil Hall establishment really loosens up and throws July 7 at 7 p.m. open its doors for those looking for their lost shaker of salt during their annual Jimmy Buffett- Lovers Parrothead Party. Passionate Parrotheads vie for top honors in a costume contest and enter to win tickets to Buffett’s August shows in Boston. Meanwhile, diners can enjoy special dishes like Dick’s Ride ‘em Cowboy Rib Eye or Tequila Queso Chicky, washed down with 12- ounce Coronas and $4 Sauza Gold Margaritas. Or, if you’re into simpler fare, no doubt there’ll be a Cheeseburger in Paradise to be found somewhere on the menu. Refer to listings, pages 36 & 72. —Alex Harris THE MADAME X Bravo, Museum of Fine Arts

Sultry, seductive and scandalous— those are just a few terms used to describe Madame X, John Singer Sargent’s famous Victorian-era painting. As one of the main attrac- tions of the MFA’s new Americans in GRIN AND BARE IT Paris exhibit, the masterpiece calls Standup comedians are no strangers to for a toast, and no drink is more NAKED COMEDY appropriate than the museum’s SHOWCASE laying themselves bare on stage, but Improv Boston with the Naked Comedy Showcase, a Bravo restaurant’s light, charismatic July 5 brave, unclothed few have taken that to Madame X martini—a seamless a new level. This radical and edgy program may not be for blend of Bombay Sapphire gin, grandma, but if you’re looking for something different, funny, orange Curacao and pink grapefruit and most importantly, naked, then this is it. Comics Andrew juice. Complemented by a garnish Ofeish (pictured), Myq Kaplan and others present R-rated of exotic star fruit, The Madame X hilarity guaranteed to put audiences in a good nude…er, is sure to hit the spot after an after- mood. And remember, the comedians don’t care if you’re noon of art appreciation. Refer to laughing at the jokes or their physiques—just so long as listing, page 72. ___ you’re laughing. Refer to listing, page 28. —Erin La Rosa —Marketa Hulpachova TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY J ULI RUBIJONO 14 PANORAMA

around the hub STYLE by Marketa Hulpachova The Sweet Smell . . .Just a Heartbeat away! Get Your Kicks locks away from highly trafficked BODEGA 6 Clearway St. BNewbury Street lies Bodega—a humble 617-421-1550 little convenience store whose dusty con- fines will do more for your personal style than a trip to the mall ever could. Bodega’s low-key exte- rior conceals a showroom full of authentic, one-of-a- kind street wear. While most of the duds (including the $2K vintage leather Nike jacket by Dr. Romanelli) are made by small, independent designers, you’ll also find rare gems like 1970s retro tees and neon sneakers by Vans Vault and Nike. So how do you access this well- guarded fashion speakeasy, you ask? We’re afraid you’ll have to go find out for yourself—it’s a bit of a secret! LUSH 30 JFK St., Cambridge 617-497-5874 Remember when you were a kid, and mom used to threaten to wash your mouth out with soap? All these years, you thought it was punishment for cussing at the playground, when chances are, mom was just trying to teach you that no matter what, soap is not TREASURE HUNT good to eat. Hopefully, you’ve learned your lesson, because Lush, BRIMFIELD For six days each year, the western the popular British purveyor of ANTIQUES & COLLECTIBLES SHOW Massachusetts hamlet of Brimfield handmade bath and beauty prod- At The Corner Mall Along Rte. 20, Brimfield sees its population of 3,000 multiply ucts, just opened its second Boston July 11–16 from you have the best of Boston dawn to dusk more than tenfold as throngs of outpost in the middle of Harvard antique dealers and collectors from Square. Come explore the shop’s with boutiques and an around the world saturate the mile-long stretch of endless inventory of goodies like grounds just off the Mass. Pike. If you can’t find the butter creams, bath balls and solid i n t e rnational food court piece of furniture, jewelry, art, literature, memorabilia or shampoos, but if you’re tempted to o ffering something for every palate! other item you’re hunting for here at one of the nation’s take a bite of any of the creamy, largest and best-known antique festivals, then it probably sweet-smelling treats, just remem- ___ doesn’t exist. Refer to listing, page 33. ber dear old mom. At the Corner of Winter & Washington Streets TOP LEFT PHOTO BY H EIDI M OESINGER; TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY C HRISTINE C ELLI 16 PANORAMA

4 5/8 x 7 3/4 Panorama Boston 12/24/01

around the hub DINING around the hub ON STAGE Score a Deal Unbound His Lips for Glory Are Sealed JAY JOHNSON: THE TWO AND ONLY Zero Arrow Theatre Beginning July 12 ost people hate being Maccused of trying to put words in someone A Grand Prix else’s mouth, but not Jay Johnson—as one of the PRIX FIXE DINNERS month-long vacation is the stuff of fan- nation’s top ventriloquists, AT ICARUS Atasy for most of us. The folks at top it’s all part of a day’s 3 Appleton St. Boston restaurant Icarus, however, are more work. Remembered by many as Chuck from the classic 617-426-1790 than happy to give their standard a la carte television show “Soap,” the gifted voice-thrower brings his menu a month off this summer, in order to make way for new show, Jay Johnson: The Two and Only!, to the the eatery’s annual prix fixe dinner specials. Throughout American Repertory Theatre’s Zero Arrow Theatre, and July, in honor of the eatery’s 28th anniversary—a virtual through the use of props and puppets, educates audiences BTW UNBOUND 2006 lifetime in the restaurant game—Icarus chef de cuisine Boston Theatre Works on the origins of ventriloquism and explains how it has Bill Flumerfelt offers patrons a three-course dinner for Black Box Theatre, affected his life. Joining Johnson onstage are characters just $28. The frequently changing menu of fresh local fare Boston Center for the Arts such as Squeaky, Darwin the monkey, and a talking tennis July 10–16 from noon–8 p.m. includes delicious dishes like maple-cured pork loin with ball, all of whom, unsurprisingly, have plenty to say on grilled peaches, Wellfleet clam chowder and housemade Every April, The Boston Marathon the subject. Refer to listing, page 34. —Alex Harris SANDRINE’S TOUR DE FRANCE ice creams, at a price that will make your wallet stay as AND WORLD CUP SPECIALS puts the world’s best athletes full as your stomach. —Sarah Brickley 8 Holyoke St., Cambridge through their paces for 26.2 THE URBAN 617-497-5300 miles. Each summer, local stage JUNGLE Best known for its casually ele- company Boston Theatre Works gant French dining, this month stages its own marathon, an RHINOCEROS Sandrine’s Bistro becomes a annual festival of new plays called Mary O’Malley Park, Commandant’s Way, on the haven for the cosmopolitan sports BTW Unbound. The showcase Chelsea Waterfront fan with a pair of delicious spe- offers a sneak preview of works Beginning July 12 cials. For $10, cycling fans can by emerging playwrights, giving Can’t decide between enjoy a Tour de France regional Boston audiences a glimpse at seeing a show, visiting the cheese tasting, which includes a productions that may eventually zoo, or taking a stroll in CHESTNUT SHEDS ITS SHELL glass of white wine and a selec- grace stages across the country. the park? This month, you Most beloved old chestnuts never tion of cheeses like Alsatian (Author Joyce Carol Oates’ The can combine all three 75 CHESTNUT change, but that’s not the case with Muenster, Roquefort, Brie and oth- Tattoo Girl premiered at BTW without spending a penny. 75 Chestnut St., Beacon Hill Beacon Hill restaurant 75 Chestnut. ers from the regions that the Unbound in 2005 and will be Simply head down to 617-227-2175 Once exclusively considered a “special famed bike race passes through. staged by the company in 2007.) Mary O’Malley Park in Chelsea, and catch an outdoor per- occasion” eatery, 75 Chestnut recently reinvented itself as a Or, for soccer enthusiasts, $10 Throughout the week, plays formance of Eugene Ionesco’s absurdist classic Rhinoceros, more casual and homey neighborhood bar and grill. The gets you the Wursts and World selected from nearly 300 submis- presented by the Boston company TheatreZone. Keeping transformation includes a new bistro-like interior boasting a Cup special—a trio of European sions are workshopped, culminat- with the troupe’s tradition of inclusion for all audiences, cozy and sociable ambiance, and a menu packed with a style sausages that can be ing in an all-day staging of the TheatreZone will present both English and Spanish perform- variety of dishes (from filet mignon to five-alarm chili) all enjoyed while watching the year’s most passionate and inno- ances of the hilarious satire, in which the citizens of a French priced under $20. So now, patrons can spend less time world’s biggest sporting event on vative pieces of theatrical story- town begin morphing into rhinoceroses, leaving the dwin- agonizing over which fork to use and can focus their ener- Sandrine’s plasma TV. telling. Refer to listing, page 34. dling human population to try to make sense of the bizarre ___ gies on enjoying good food and good times. —Erin La Rosa —Josh Wardrop —Alex Harris situation. Refer to listing, page 35. —Sarah Brickley ___ TOP LEFT AND RIGHT PHOTO BY H EIDI M OESINGER: TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY E D K RIEGER 18 PANORAMA BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO BY PERSON + KILLIAN PHOTOGRAPHY JULY 3–16, 2006 19

around the hub KIDS CORNER Eternal Flame mertime... Grab an Isle Seat m he City of Boston doesn’t end when you BOSTON CHILDREN’S get to the water’s edge—not when u THEATRE PLAYS IN T THE PARK there’s the Boston Harbor Islands! Visitors Fort Warren on should pack their sea legs and head over to George’s Island July 7–9 and 14–16 beautiful George’s Island to see the 55-year S old stage company The Boston Children’s Theatre bring fun and entertaining stories to life every Friday afternoon at noon and 1:30 p.m. These “Plays in , the Park” are staged by child actors (BCT prides itself on “live theatre for children by children”) against the back-

e drop of historic Fort Warren. On July 7, the talented kids 8TH ANNUAL of BCT perform a Salute to the Sea, while on July 14 they LANTERN FESTIVAL

huff and puff their way through Who’s Afraid of the Big Forest Hills Cemetery

July 13 from 6–9 p.m.

Bad Wolf? Refer to listing, page 30. —Alex Harris m

Buddhist culture teaches the young i

to honor their elders and celebrate t

A SLICE their ancestors. Each summer,

OF LIFE Forest Hills Cemetery allows visitors r

to do just that during their annual e

LIFE IS GOOD Lantern Festival. Inspired by a WATERMELON

FESTIVAL Buddhist tradition, guests can m

Boston Common inscribe message on paper lanterns, July 8 from noon–6 p.m. m which are then lit and floated out For many folks, over Lake Hibsicus, creating a beau- u having a big, juicy tiful and tranquil scene of tribute to S slab of watermelon those who’ve passed on. The cele- and a gorgeous summer day to enjoy it is what makes life bration comes in the form of music good. Which is exactly why Life is Good—the optimistically from the Tsuji Daiko samurai drum- SUMMER DISH: Apple rhubarb tart with vanilla ice minded Newbury Street clothing boutique—figures families will mers and traditional Chinese dances cream is just one seasonal venture to Boston Common for their celebration of everyone’s by Chu Ling Dance Academy, as As the mercury dessert served at Jasper White’s Summer Shack. favorite red melon. The benefit for Project Joy—an organiza- well as gospel music from perform- rises, dive into some tion that aids Boston’s underprivileged children—features fun ers Ron Murphy, Athene Wilson and PHOTO BY S EACIA PAVAO activities like the Frisbee toss, Whiffle Ball Homerun Derby and Wannetta Jackson. Bring a picnic of the best things even watermelon seed spitting. For less-competitive sorts, and share family memories of your about summer in the the festival also boasts Chillville, where guests can partake own loved ones at this special event in arts and crafts, kids’ activities and plenty of food—includ- for all ages. Refer to listing, page 32. Hub by Sarah Brickley ___ ing (of course) sweet and juicy watermelon. —Alex Harris —Josh Wardrop TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY TANIT S AKAKINI 20 PANORAMA

DANCIN’ IN THE MOONLIGHT End—home to traditional feasts and Some outsiders regard Boston as a tradition- processions all summer long—hosts the al, buttoned-up city, but the Tango Society of traditional St. Rocco Society Boston is out to change that impression. On Procession on July 9 and the July 10 at 7:30 p.m., follow the sound of St. Dominic Society seductive Argentine rhythms to the Weeks Procession on July 16. Italian pride Memorial Footbridge at Memorial Drive near reaches its zenith, though, from July 14–16, Harvard Square for Tango by when the Italia Unita Festival Moonlight—an exotic and exciting fills East Boston with traditional music,

A BIRTHDAY BASH, BOSTON-STYLE Few cities in America have the breadth of Liberty,” Faneuil Hall, and the opportunity history that Boston does, and on the to watch the U.S.S. Constitution as it Fourth of July that history and patriotic embarks on a turnaround cruise that takes it spirit are expressed to the fullest with a from Charlestown Navy Yard to Castle Island massive celebration of our country’s birth in South Boston. Or, you could bypass the befitting the epicenter of the nation’s strug- Hub hoopla and spend the day picnicking gle for independence. on the Esplanade and staking a claim for the Boston’s weeklong Harborfest event best possible spot to watch the Boston comes to an end July 3 & 4 with a variety Pops (pictured above) perform its July 4 of fun events for the whole family. On July spectacular at the Hatch Shell, a tradition 3, local reggae group On the Drop per- that dates back to 1924 under late Pops forms at City Hall Plaza at noon. That same conductor Arthur Fiedler. This year, the Pops day, children are invited to travel back in are joined by the bonafide kings of Boston time to the colonial era by playing Colonial rock—Steven Tyler and Joe Perry of Dress Up at the Old South Meeting Aerosmith—for what promises to be a spirit- House (refer to listing, page 50). Even ed and patriotic display of musical bombast. ALL THAT JAZZ: The Jazz in evening event that allows entertainment and fun activities like the though the Boston Tea Party Museum is Speaking of bombast, the Pops show July series presents free jazz temporarily closed for renovations, the performances at Downtown participants to engage in world's largest Sausage Eating Contest culminates in one of the nation’s largest Crossing and South Station. one of the world’s most (refer to listings, page 33). Meanwhile, the Liberty Fleet of Tall Ships is offering an July 4 fireworks displays, and if you aren’t sensual dances with only Latino community gets in on the action opportunity to re-enact the famed revolu- able to get a prime spot along the the night air and the city from July 13–16, with the Festival tionary event from 3–5 p.m. Besides enjoy- Esplanade, another fine option is to do skyline as a backdrop. Receive a free lesson, Betances, a cavalcade of Latino music, ing the sights of the Boston Harbor, listen Independence Day in style at the Top of and dance the night away under the stars! arts and cuisine (call 617-927-1707 for more to the arguments from Sam Adams and the the Hub (refer to listing, page 67). There’s Call 617-699-6246 for information. information). And regardless of ethnicity, Sons of Liberty and watch the ships fire off no place other than the TOH’s 52nd floor everyone can appreciate the joy of creating their cannons before you get a chance to luxury restaurant where you can pretty PARTY OVER HERE, the perfect sandcastle. Visitors to the North help throw tea overboard (call 617-742- much look down on the fireworks, and for PARTY OVER THERE Shore’s Revere Beach can marvel at the 0333 for more information). $250 per person enjoy a gourmet dinner of The rise in temperature must inspire the artful creations of sandcastle builders July 4 offers many of the same activities, surf and turf and peach cobbler. Call it abandonment of worries and responsibili- from around the world at the New along with special events including the read- exercising your patriotic right to the pursuit ties—come summer in the Hub, there seem England Sand Sculpting ing of the Declaration of Independence at of happiness. to be outdoor celebrations everywhere you Invitational 2006 from July 10–16 the Old State House (refer to listing, page —Alex Harris and Josh Wardrop ___ turn. The Italian neighborhood of the North (call 781-286-8190 for more information). 50), a traditional oration in the “Cradle of ___ 22 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 23

BOSTON CELEBRATES BASTILLE DAY This month, Frenchmen the world over will celebrate the 1789 event that marked the end of the French monarchy and the beginning of the modern day republic—Bastille Day. Boston won’t be mistaken for Paris anytime soon, but that doesn’t mean the Hub won’t make room amidst its own Independence Day festivities this month to mark the occasion. The city’s biggest display of organized Francophilia is the French Library and Cultural Center’s (pictured right) annual REFRESHMENT DOWN COLD: Cold Stone Creamery is TO MARKET including every Bostonian’s favorite—fresh Bastille Day Street Party, taking one of many ice cream parlors WE WILL GO local lobster. Jasper White’s place on the holiday, July 14 from that discerning locals flock to in Fresh New England fare (refer to listing, 6–11 p.m. To accommodate the the summer. Summer Shack doesn’t end with “chowda” page 66), with locations in the Back Bay and expected 3,000 plus revelers, and Boston cream pie, as Cambridge, features down-home décor and Marlborough Street in the Back Bay evidenced by a trip to any top-notch clam shack-style fare, including will be blocked off between of the city’s many farmers’ markets. The the traditional clambake—complete with a Berkeley and Clarendon streets. chaotic frenzy that is Haymarket has one-pound lobster, steamers, corn, potatoes, With four non-stop hours of live been selling fresh veggies, fruit and fish for chorizo and an egg—for $28. Meanwhile, music–courtesy of bands Daby centuries, and is open on Fridays and those who prefer a more portable lobster Toure, Amadou & Mariam, and hip Saturdays. On Thursdays and Saturdays, feast can delight in that New England sta- hop trio Daara J—dancing in the The Boston Public Market ple, the lobster roll, in Harvard Square at streets while singing the “Marseillaise” will While at the MFA, art lovers can take on the Old Northern Avenue Bridge offers Charlie’s Kitchen (10 Eliot St., only seem natural. And as partying with in masterpieces by renowned French produce, bread, cheese, and more. Mondays Cambridge, 617-492-9646)—where its such joie de vivre is bound to work up an artists like Degas, Monet and Renoir, or and Wednesdays, City Hall Plaza is famous double lobster roll special is a bar- appetite, revelers will enjoy the a la carte enjoy the museum’s special Americans transformed into an open-air marketplace, gain at around $10—or at Massachusetts fare and drinks provided by local French in Paris, 1860–1900 exhibit. Refer to as is Copley Square, in the shadow seaside mainstay Kelly’s Roast eateries. Refer to listing, page 32. story, page 12. of Trinity Church, on Tuesdays and Fridays. Beef (410 Revere Beach Blvd., Revere, 781- For a more low-key way to embrace And the city’s many fine French restau- Across the river, Cambridge is home to sev- 284-9129) where, come summer, lobster rolls French culture, the 11th Boston French rants will be busy this month, celebrating eral locales that host markets, as well, even exceed the famous roast beef sand- Film Festival at the Museum of Fine Arts not only Bastille Day but the famed bike including Central Square on wiches in popularity. should offer that certain je ne sais quoi for race the Tour De France, which runs Mondays, and outside the Charles cinema lovers. From July 6–23, French films through July 23. Brasserie Jo (refer to Hotel (near Harvard Square) on Fridays GET JAZZED with English subtitles from some of the listing, page 64) will broadcast the race and Sundays. Refer to listings, page 60. Some say jazz only belongs in smoky, after- most esteemed French actors and directors and follow the bicyclists as they pass hours clubs, but they’ve obviously never of all time will be presented, including through different regions, while featuring LAYING DOWN THE CLAW experienced the joy of free Jazz in Palais Royale! starring Catherine Deneuve rotating daily specials reflecting the culi- No visit to New England is complete with- July shows at Downtown Crossing. These and Costa-Gavras’ The Ax. Refer to listing, nary influences of those regions. ___ out sampling plenty of fresh seafood, free outdoor concerts take place at 12:30 page 29. —Erin La Rosa ___ ABOVE PHOTO BY H EIDI M OESINGER 24 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 25

Sprinkleberry and Wacky Watermelon. Other great spots to grab a cone in the city include thehubdirectory J.P. Licks (352 Newbury St., 617-236- 1666, other locations), Herrell’s (15 Dunster St, Cambridge, 617-497-2179, other OUR GUIDE TO WHAT locations) and Lizzy’s (29 Church St., Cambridge, 617-354-2911—we recommend TO DO, SEE, BUY AND the grapenut), all of which will leave you cool, collected and satisfied. EAT IN BOSTON CATCH A MOVIE Even if overly air-conditioned theaters and index sky-high ticket prices aren’t your style, that CURRENT EVENTS 28 doesn’t mean that you have to skip that Friday night movie date. Check out the Movies by Moonlight series on CLUBS & BARS 36 Rowes Wharf for under-the-stars viewings of classics like Roman Holiday on July 7 or The MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 39 Magnificent Seven on July 14, beginning at dusk. Or grab a spot on the lawn in front of MAPS 44 the Hatch Shell on July 7 & 14 at sunset to catch a showing of Free Friday FREEDOM TRAIL 50 Flicks that are appropriate for the whole family. Refer to listing, page 29. SIGHTSEEING 52 SOMETHING TO CROW p.m. on Mondays in South FENWAY ROCKS ABOUT: Pop-rocker Sheryl EXCURSIONS 56 Crow appears with the Dave Station, Wednesdays on Most of the hits to be found inside the Matthews Band at Fenway Park Summer Street in walls of Boston’s hardball Ground Zero— on July 7 and 8. Downtown Crossing, and Fenway Park—come ringing off the bats of SHOPPING 59 Fridays in front of Borders Red Sox sluggers like David Ortiz and on the corner of School Manny Ramirez. But this month, it’ll be Top RESTAURANTS 64 and Washington streets. Each concert fea- 40 hits echoing through Fenway as two of tures a different group of performers, the pop world’s biggest acts—Sheryl NEIGHBORHOODS 80 including the John Licata Quartet (July 5) Crow and the Dave Matthews and the Bill Tracy Consortium (July 7). Band—unite for two shows at the park Refer to listing, page 31. on July 7 & 8. And, on July 12 at 6 p.m., TOWERING ABOVE: At 62 stories, the heralded, I.M. Pei- Sox GM (and occasional rocker) Theo designed John Hancock Tower I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM Epstein and ESPN reporter (and occasional dominates its Copley Square There’s never a bad season for ice cream, rocker) Peter Gammons bring their phenom- locale, not to mention Boston’s skyline. Refer to listing, page 53. but nothing completes a summer night like enally popular Hot Stove, Cool a scoop or two of everyone’s favorite simple Music benefit concert back to Fenway yet scrumptious dessert. The newest sensa- for a second consecutive year. Performers tion in Boston is Cold Stone on the bill for the show (which raises Creamery (refer to listing, page 75), money for various Boston-area charities) where exuberant employees will mix-in all include Buffalo Tom, Kay Hanley, Juliana manner of candy, fruit, nuts and toppings to Hatfield and The Click Five and will be create a customized flavor, or serve you emceed by comedian Mike O’Malley (“Yes, ___ samples of brand-new summer specials like Dear”). Refer to listings, page 31. ___ 26 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 27

CURRENT EVENTS length recitals of classical works by well-known composers, BOSTON CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTER, 415 Summer St., HARVARD FILM ARCHIVE, Carpenter Center for the Visual Arts, performed by members of the Old West Organ Society. July 11 617-954-2000. July 11–13—Microsoft Worldwide Partner 24 Quincy St., Cambridge, 617-495-4700. Call for showtimes, at 8 p.m.—Featured organist Louise Mundinger performs Conference, offering business newtworking opportunities and complete schedule and ticket prices. With more than 300 films works by Bach, Shearing and others. hands-on instruction from Microsoft leaders. shown per year, HFA is one of the most active art cinemas in New England. Now showing: July 3—The House of Darkness, Within Our Gates; July 3—Showboat; July 4 & 5—Chuck Jones Shorts COMEDY FILM Jour De Fete; July 4 & 5—Imitation of Life; July 6 & 7—It

Happened Here; July 6 & 7—Hair; July 8 & 9—Manhunter; July curr THE COMEDY CONNECTION, Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall THE BRATTLE THEATRE, 40 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-876- 11 & 12—The Letter That Was Never Sent; July 13 & 14—The Marketplace, 617-248-9700. Cover and times may vary. Call 6837. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $9; stu- Passenger; July 15 & 16—Three Lives and Only One Death. for full schedule. Named “The Best Comedy Club in the dents & matinees $7.50; seniors & children $6. Classic, cutting- Country” (USA Today), this venue has featured national and edge and world cinema with double features almost every day. Now MOVIES BY MOONLIGHT, Boston Harbor Hotel, 70 Rowes Wharf, ents

local stand-up acts such as Chris Rock, Dane Cook and Dave showing: through July 6—A/K/A Tommy Chong; July 7–10— 617-439-7000. Every summer, The Boston Harbor Hotel terrace is ent e

v Chappelle. Tickets: $15–30. July 3 at 8 p.m.—Amateur Pandora’s Box; July 7–10 —The Great Yokai War; July 11 & 12— transformed into an outdoor cinema for free Friday night flicks. Showcase hosted by Kevin Knox; July 5 at 8 p.m.—Tony V; Brick; July 11 & 12—Hard Candy; July 13—Drawing Restraint 9; July 7—Roman Holiday; July 14—The Magnificent Seven. July 6 & 13 at 8:30 p.m.—Frank Santos, “the R-Rated July 14–16—Gilda; July 14–16—Psychopathia Sexualis. Hypnotist”; July 7 & 8 at 8 and 10:15 p.m.—Joe Rogan; July MUGAR OMNI THEATER, Museum of Science, 617-723-2500 9 & 10 at 7 and 9:15 p.m.—Mo’ Nique; July 11 at 8 p.m.— COOLIDGE CORNER THEATRE, 290 Harvard Ave., Brookline, 617- or 617-333-FILM. Call for showtimes and complete schedule.

Paul Nardizzi; July 12 at 8 p.m.—Mike McDonald; July 14 & 734-2500. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: Tickets: $9; seniors $8; children (3–11) $7. Discounted admission v ent e

15 at 8 and 10:15 p.m.—Bill Burr. $8.50; members, seniors & children $5.50. This independent for showtimes after 6 p.m. This IMAX theater presents larger- ents movie house screens recent indie films, as well as the classics. than-life images on a five-story high, domed screen. Now show- THE COMEDY STUDIO AT THE HONG KONG, 1236 Mass. Ave., Now showing: July 3 at 7 p.m.—Lomax the Song Hunter, with ing: Greece: Secrets of the Past; Wired to Win: Surviving the Tour Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-661-6507. Doors open at musical guest Bennett Hammond; July 10 at 7 p.m.—Oscar de France; Dolphins. 7:30 p.m.; shows begin at 8 p.m. Call for complete schedule. Brown Jr.: Music is my Life, Politics my Mistress, with musical

curr Cover: $8–10. A place where fresh talent is discovered and guests Esperanza Spalding and her Trio, MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. headliners experiment. July 5—Steamy Bohemians, Dan Screenings Thu–Sun, call for showtimes and complete schedule. Boulger, Alan Sousa, Dan Hirshon and others; July 6—Dan FREE FRIDAY FLICKS ON THE ESPLANADE, MDC Hatch Shell, Tickets: $6–9. The Museum of Fine Arts’ Film Program has grown PHOTO BY C ATHARINE M C D ERMOTT-TINGLE Sally’s Firthst Thursday; July 7—Steve Calechman, Arielle Charles River Esplanade, Storrow Drive, 617-787-7200. Free and to become one of the nation’s finest exhibitors of contemporary JIMMY TINGLE: The popular comedian performs Goldman, Pat Boccuzzi and others; July 8—Steve Calechman, open to the public. A summertime tradition. Watch your favorite films, international cinema, restored classics and premieres of American his one-man show at his own theater in Somerville Kris Earle, Bethany Van Delft and others; July 9 & 16—Erin from the classics of yesteryear to the most popular films of today, independent films. Now showing: July 6 at 5:45 p.m.—The First every Friday and Saturday. Refer to listing, below. Judge and guests; July 11—The Magic Lounge; July 12— at nightfall along the Charles River. July 7 & 14 at sunset—TBA. Time I was 20; beginning July 6—French Film Festival. Matthew Pascal, Dave Grabiner, Shane Webb and others; July 13—The Dan Sally Show; July 14—Jenn Dlugos, Anthony Scofield, Zardon Richardson and The Walsh Bros.; July 15— CLASSICAL Pat Boccuzzi, JJ Leslie and Greg Thibideau.

BOSTON POPS, 617-266-2378. Tickets: $17–74. The Boston IMPROV ASYLUM, 216 Hanover St., 617-263-6887. Shows Pops were created in 1885 by Boston Symphony Orchestra Wed–Sat. Tickets: $15–20, dinner packages available. Thu at founder Henry Lee Higginson, who wanted to provide a lighter 8 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 8 and 10 p.m.—Monkey Trial & Error...or, musical concert for the summertime. Led by Keith Lockhart, now You Say You Want an Evolution; Sat at midnight.— The Midnight in his 12th season as conductor, the Pops are a quintessentially Show; Thu at 10 p.m.—The Madness; Fri at midnight— American tradition. July 4 at 8 p.m. at the DCR Hatch Shell on the College Smackdown. Charles River Esplanade—The Pops’ annual Fourth of July cele- bration concert (preview concert: July 3 at 8:30 p.m.); July 12 at IMPROVBOSTON, Back Alley Theater, 1253 Cambridge St., Cam- 8:30 p.m. at the Koussevitzky Music Shed at Tanglewood in bridge, 617-576-1253. Cover: $5–15. This comedy troupe fea- Lenox—The Pops team with the Tanglewood Music Center Vocal tures sketch comedy, games, original music and audience partici- Fellows to celebrate the Broadway works of Leonard Bernstein. pation. July 11 at 10 p.m.— Zebro; July 5 & 12 at 8 p.m.— The Hump Fringe Show; July 5 at 10 p.m.—Naked Comedy BOSTON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA’S TANGLEWOOD SEASON, Showcase; July 6 & 13 at 8 p.m.— Comedy Thursday; at 10 Tanglewood, Lenox, 617-266-1200 or 888-266-1200. Located in the p.m.—The Great and Secret Comedy Show; July 7 & 14 at 8 Berkshires, Tanglewood has been the Symphony’s summer home p.m.—The Robert Cycle; at 10 p.m.—TheatreSports; July 8 & 15 since 1937. Tickets: $8.50–98. July 4 at 8 p.m. at the Koussevitzky at 6 p.m.—Family Show; at 8 and 10 p.m.—Mainstage; July 16 Music Shed at Tanglewood in Lenox—Fourth of July celebration at 7 p.m.—Sgt. Culpepper’s Improvisational Jamboree. featuring special guest vocalist LeeAnn Rimes; July 6, 9, 13 & 16 at 8:30 p.m. at Seiji Ozawa Hall—Pianist Garrick Ohlsson joins the JIMMY TINGLE’S OFF BROADWAY, 255 Elm St., Davis Square, BSO in performance of the complete Beethoven piano sonatas; July Somerville, 617-591-1616. Cover: $22–30. Call for reservations 7 at 8:30 p.m. at the Koussevitzky Music Shed—The BSO and con- and complete schedule. Founded by actor/comic/writer Jimmy ductor James Levine are joined by the Tanglewood Festival Chorus Tingle, this venue features established and aspiring performers. to perform works by Schoenberg and Beethoven; July 8 at 2:30 July 6 at 7:30 p.m.—Mortified; July 7, 8, 14 & 15 at 7:30 p.m. at the Koussevitzky Music Shed—The BSO and conductor p.m.—Jimmy Tingle’s American Dream. Bernard Haitink are joined by violinist Joshua Bell to perform works by Sibelius and Mahler; July 15 at 8:30 p.m. at the Koussevitzky Music Shed—The BSO is joined by Lisa Gasteen, Felicity Palmer CONVENTIONS & EXPOS and other guest vocalists for their performance of Strauss’ Elektra. BAYSIDE EXPO CENTER, 200 Mt. Vernon St., 617-474-6000. OLD WEST ORGAN SOCIETY SUMMER CONCERT SERIES, 131 July 16—DUB Magazine Custom Auto Show & Concert, ___ Cambridge St., 617-739-1340. Free and open to the public. Full- tickets $30. ___ 28 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 29

SIMONS IMAX THEATER, New England Aquarium, Central Wharf, music series brings in performers from a wide variety of genres, and rhythm ’n’ blues cover bands. July 5—The Press with The 617-973-5200. Sun–Wed 9:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; Thu–Sat: 10 from zydeco to flamenco to folk. July 5 at 6 and 8:30 p.m.—Seu Big Meat, tickets: $5; July 12—Pennyred with Extra Blue Kind a.m.–9:30 p.m. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: Jorge; July 12 at 7:30 p.m.—Jolie Holland and Ollabelle. and Ryan Fitzsimmons, tickets: $5; July 13—Township with $9.50; seniors & children (3–11) $7.50. The Simons is the first large- Carrigan, tickets: $7; July 14—The Boston Horns with Jen format theater in Boston to have 3D viewing capability. Now show- DCR HATCH SHELL, Charles River Esplanade. Free and open to Kearney and The Lost Onion Band and The Klapp, tickets: $5. ing: Sharks 3D; Aliens of the Deep; Wild Safari 3D; Deep Sea 3D. the public. General admission; outdoor seating. July 15 at 7 p.m.—Oldies 103.3 Free Summer Concert Series featuring Three HOT STOVE, COOL MUSIC, Fenway Park, Yawkey Way, 877-RED-

Dog Night. SOX9. July 12 at 6 p.m. Tickets: $50–100. For the second straight curr KIDS CORNER year, this concert event organized by Red Sox GM Theo Epstein DAVE MATTHEWS BAND AND SHERYL CROW, Fenway Park, and ESPN reporter Peter Gammons fills Fenway Park with rock BOSTON CHILDREN’S MUSEUM, Museum Wharf, 300 Congress Yawkey Way, 617-931-2000. July 7 & 8 at 6 p.m. Tickets: $65. music from top acts like Buffalo Tom, Kay Hanley, Juliana Hatfield, St., 617-426-8855. Refer to listing in Museums. Daily organized The home of the Boston Red Sox welcomes its now annual sum- The Click Five and more in a benefit for Epstein’s Foundation to be ents

activities in the Art Studio, Play Space and KidStage, such as mer concert, this year featuring multi-platinum recording artists Named Later and other Boston non-profits. ent e

v music and movement, finger puppet making and kitchen science. The Dave Matthews Band and Sheryl Crow. July 5 & 12 at 11 a.m.—Musical Moments Activities; July 6 & 13 JAZZ IN JULY, 617-482-2319. Mon in South Station Grand at 11 a.m.—Sing-A-Story, for children age 3 and under; July 7 & FORT POINT CHANNEL SUMMER OUTDOOR MUSIC SERIES, Concourse, Wed on Summer Street in front of Macy’s, Fri on the 14 at noon—Fort Point Channel Summer Concerts, free; July 8 & Children’s Wharf Park at Boston Children’s Museum, 300 corner of School and Washington streets. 12:30–1:30 p.m. Free 15 at 1 p.m.—Meet the Musicians. Congress Street. Free and open to the public. General admission; and open to the public. Relax and enjoy great live jazz during

outdoor seating. July 7 at noon—Gospel from the Silver Leaf lunchtimes. July 5—John Licata Quartet; July 7—The Bill Tracy v ent e

BOSTON HARBOR ISLANDS EVENTS, Boston Harbor Islands Gospel Singers; July 14 at noon—Bluegrass from The Consortium; July 10—Marianne Solivan Quartet; July 12—John ents National Park area, 617-223-8666. One of Boston’s great geo- Resophonics. Kordalewski Trio; July 14—Stefan Couture and the Campfire graphical resources—the Boston Harbor Islands—provide a pic- Orchestra; July 17—Rusty Scott Quartet. turesque and exciting setting for family events all summer long. GILLETTE STADIUM, One Patriot Place, Foxboro, 800-543-1776. July 7 at noon and 1:30 p.m.—Boston Children’s Theatre pres- The home of the New England Patriots and the New England JETBLUE ALWAYS SUMMER CONCERT SERIES, Prudential Center,

curr ents a Salute to the Sea at Fort Warren on Georges Island, free; Revolution is also Massachusetts’ biggest capacity outdoor con- South Garden, Boylston Street, www.prudentialcenter.com. One of July 8 & 9—Take a ferry ride out to Georges Island for Snails, cert arena. July 16 at 3:30 p.m.—New England Country Music Boston’s most popular shopping destinations hosts free outdoor Bugs and Slugs, where families can learn about the tiny inverte- Festival, featuring Kenny Chesney, tickets: $37.50–85.50. concerts each Wednesday afternoon throughout the summer. July 5 brates of the island ecosystem, tickets: $12, seniors $9, children COOLIDGE CORNER THEATRE: The inde- at 12:30 p.m.—Matt Costa; July 12 at 12:30 p.m.—John Eddie. $7; July 14 at noon and 1:30 p.m.—Boston Children’s Theatre pendent movie house in Brookline presents an HARPERS FERRY, 156 Brighton Ave., Allston, 617-254-9743. presents Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf? at Fort Warren on array of new releases, classic films and mid- Shows start at 8 p.m. Call for complete schedule. This club offers THE MIDDLE EAST, 472 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617-864-EAST. Georges Island, free; July 15 & 16—Take a ferry ride out to night cult movies. Refer to listing, page 29. live music daily and is renowned for showcasing local classic rock Doors open at 8 p.m., shows start at 9 p.m. unless otherwise Georges Island for Underwater Exploration, where families can hop aboard a research vessel with trained scuba divers, and learn about robots designed to explore the ocean floor, tickets: $12, seniors $9, children $7. Ryan Cabrera, tickets: $20; July 15 at 6 p.m.—Bowling for Soup, tickets: $15. BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY, 700 Boylston St., Copley Square, 617-536-5400. Refer to listing in Sightseeing section. The first BANK OF AMERICA PAVILION, 290 Northern Ave., 617-931- publicly supported municipal library in the world hosts many activ- 2000. This open-air waterfront venue features world-class rock, ities and special programs for children, including live performanc- pop, blues and country performers set against the backdrop of the es, storytelling, interactive computer activities and films. July 6 & Boston skyline. July 7 at 8 p.m.—Anita Baker, tickets: 13 at 7 p.m.—Thursday Evening Storytime; July 12 at 2:30 $35–79.50; July 8 at 7:30 p.m.—Gipsy Kings, tickets: $35–55; p.m.—Children’s Storytime; July 14 at 10:15 a.m.— July 11 at 7:30 p.m.—Ashlee Simpson with Ashley Parker Angel, Infant/Toddler Singalong; at 3 p.m.—Summer Fun Club. tickets: $25–45; July 12 at 7:30 p.m.—Elvis Costello and The Impostors, tickets: $35–55; July 14 & 15 at 7:30 p.m.—Celtic PUPPET SHOWPLACE THEATRE, 32 Station St., Brookline, 617- Woman, tickets: $38.50–65. 731-6400. The first puppetry center in New England presents the magical world of puppet theater, enlightening audiences of all BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL, 70 Rowes Wharf, 617-439-7000. Free ages. Weekday morning shows are appropriate for ages 3–6. and open to the public. The prestigious Boston Harbor Hotel pres- Weekend matinee shows are appropriate for ages 4–9. Tickets: ents its eighth annual free Summer in the City music series, fea- $9.50. July 5 & 6 at 10:30 a.m. and 1 p.m.—Peter Rabbit and turing local and national blues band performing on the hotel’s Other Tales by Pat’s Puppets. July 12 & 13 at 10:30 a.m. and 1 floating barge stage. July 4 at 6 p.m.—Summer Soul with World p.m.—Sir George and the Dragon by Pumpernickel Puppets. Premier Band; July 5 & 12 at 6 p.m.—Summer Swing with The White Heat Orchestra; July 6 at 6 p.m.—Blues Barge with Walter Trout; July 11 at 6 p.m.—Summer Soul with Motown Express; LIVE MUSIC July 13 at 6 p.m.—Blues Barge with Larry McCray.

AVALON, 15 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2424. This popular night- CLUB PASSIM, 47 Palmer St., Cambridge, 617-492-7679. Call for club hosts rock and pop music acts prior to evening dance nights full schedule. This intimate Harvard Square coffeehouse was a with DJs. July 11 at 7 p.m.—Reel Big Fish, MxPx and Streetlight starting place for folk icons like Joan Baez and Bob Dylan. July 6 Manifesto, tickets: $20; July 12 at 8 p.m.—Puffy AmiYumi with at 8 p.m.—Kevin So and David Linhart, tickets: $12; July 8 at 8 Tally Hall, tickets: $20; July 13 at 7:30 p.m.—Anthony Hamilton, p.m.—Lucy Kaplansky with Mike Clem, tickets: $25; July 15 at 8 tickets: $27.50. p.m.—Cheryl Wheeler, tickets: $50; July 16 at 7:30 p.m.—Jake Amerding, tickets: $15. AXIS, 13 Landsdowne St., 617-262-2437. Call for full schedule. This popular nightclub hosts rock, punk and alternative music acts CONCERTS IN THE COURTYARD, Calderwood Courtyard, Museum ___ prior to evening dance nights with DJs. July 14 at 6:30 p.m.— of Fine Arts, 617-369-3306. Tickets: $25. The MFA’s summer ___ 30 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 31 current ev ents ___ 33 — ths t 4 p.m.— a The North July 16 vs. Buzz York New July 16 Y 3–16, 2006 vs. Oakland Athletics vs.Athletics Oakland vs. Spirit North Shore vs. Spirit North Shore vs. Sportimes New York vs. Sacramento Capitals vs. Philadelphia Freedoms JUL PROFESSIONAL BASEBALL Rocco Society; —St. y of Amy Lowell;Amy y of July 9 at 7:05 p.m. at 7:05 p.m. at 7:30 p.m. at 7:30 p.m. at 2:05 p.m. at 7:30 p.m. at 7 p.m. at 5:05 p.m. TH END ITALIAN FEASTS AND PROCESSIONS, FEASTS AND TH END ITALIAN Route 128, Exit 19 62 Dunham Road, Beverly, MA enway Park, Way, 4 Yawkey 617-482-4SOX. End. www.northendboston.com. “Little Italy” Boston’s honors patron weekend festivals featuring saints and its culture with Italian delicacies, melodies and streetside bands playing Sicilian pa authentic wares on the cobblestoned vendors offering dressed with garlands. Honor Moore reads the poetr Honor Moore Joen. Jin-Kyung Kim and cellist violinist Eugene Music from NOR SPORTS BOSTON LOBSTERSArena,Harvard University Bright Cambridge 877-617-LOBS. July 6 July 9 July 11 July 14 WORLD TEAM TENNIS BOSTON RED SOXF July 13–15 July 16 BROCKTON ROX MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL Campanelli Stadium,Ave., One Lexington Brockton, 508-559-7070. July 7 & 8 July 9 LEAGUE CAN-AM St. Domenic Society. . y events at noon— at 4 p.m.— 978-232-7200 July 3 a concert to celebrate 105 Brattle St., July 9 w antiques show in the Central Square, East Seating is limited, but . . and open to the public. Free or call Some areas require an entrance Brimfield Fairgrounds, take Mass Antiques Fair began in the 1950s Antiques Fair Summer music and poetr Drums in the Night, July 14–16 while adults enjoy authentic Italian food, This 12th annual, three-day event celebrates Afterburner,entirely a rock/R&B band made up The Brimfield t 7 p.m.— concerts, reenact- historical War-era Revolutionary a Air Force personnel,Air Force performs at City Hall Plaza. from 6 a.m.–6 p.m. 617-876-4491. free and open to the public www.nsmt.org at 1 p.m.— July 3 West to Route 20 West (Exit 9), (Exit West to Route 20 West Brimfield, 617-491-3434. usually $5. THERE’S SIMPLY NO BETTER PLACE TO SEE A SHOW. SEE TO PLACE NO BETTER THERE’S SIMPLY a complete listing of our 2006 For Musical Theater Season, Celebrity Summer Series, Concerts or Children’s visit Call for full schedule. blankets and lawn chairs are encouraged. ITALIA UNITA 2006 ITALIAN FESTIVAL, 2006 ITALIAN UNITA ITALIA 2006, LONGFELLOW SUMMER FESTIVAL walking tours, walking ments, U.S. visits from naval and more. ships the Drop at band On music from Boston-area Reggae Hall City Plaza; July 4 FAIR, BRIMFIELD ANTIQUES Pike July 11–16 of active U.S. fee, liberty featuring the Middlesex County Volunteers Fifes and Drums Fifes Volunteers liberty featuring the Middlesex County America,and music of Revolutionary in the Old City Hall courtyard; and has become the largest and best-kno and has become the largest and U.S. the country. with over 5,000 dealers from all over The show has a carnival-like atmosphere, appropriate for all ages, and is located Route 20. along a one mile stretch on both sides of Cambridge, Italian heritage. Kids delight in rides and games, face painting, bal- loon animals and more, bocce matches and a sausage eating contest. musical This year’s Bobby Rydell and Italian sensations Riservaguests include Moac. Boston, 617-561-3201. take place on the side lawn of Longfellow Historic Site and all events are others ,95 from y from 6–9 annetta GAMASCO W free; ER B tion honoring July 14 July 13 IANE D Wilson and te paper lanterns, light s 31st annual Bastille Day The influential art- orest Hills Cemeter F Refer to listing, left. Athene , Marlborough Street between AL, HOTO BY -spangled celebra P star . Over half of the events are Christopher Columbus Park, 617-542- The acclaimed local opera company The acclaimed 617-227-1528. www.bostonharbor Celebrate liberte, fraternite egalite and at Construct and decora y and Cultural Center’ at 6 p.m. This city-wide, . Through July 4 July 11 Tickets: $10. rench Librar $1–10 ting the most beloved Neapolitan songs and arias of all time. punk trio continues its comeback with a show at The Paradise July 13. MISSION OF BURMA: Forest Hills Ave., Hills Forest Jamaica Plain, 617-524-0128. fest.com. Jackson, Master Tsuji’s Samurai Taiko drummers and Chu Ling Jackson,Taiko Samurai Tsuji’s Master Dance Academy. p.m. cost presents a free outdoor mini-performance, Canta Napoli, cele- bra BOSTON HARBORFEST, SPECIAL EVENTS 8TH ANNUAL LANTERN FESTIV STREET PARTY, BASTILLE DAY OPERA OPERA, BOSTON LYRIC 6–11 p.m. Tickets: $30. Independence Day features more than 200 scheduled events and attracts 2.5 million people. more than several include Festivities Berkeley and Clarendon streets, 617-912-0400. them and set them afloat on a small lake at dusk. Before sunset, enjoy picnics and a pan-Asian program of music and dance fea- turing gospel singers Ron Murphy the F party, featuring dancing, food, and wine along with musical per- Amadou and Mariam,formances by international artists Daara J Toure. and Daby 6772. - - at at — tick t 8 ws The a $20; tick — , July $55–350. t 9 Dave Alvin July 9 & Leo Blanco a All sho July 16 wing to live 800-594- July 3, 9, Downstairs at 9 p.m. tickets: Mothers Rest Free and open Free July 11 tickets: $25. t 9 p.m.— tickets: —Max Creek, tickets: $25. a t 7:30 p.m. Wharf, $12; July 13 a —The Rakes with —String Cheese tickets: $15; July 15 ay (Causeway Street), t 7:30 and 10 p.m.— te setting with a big te setting with a —Sounds of the a Mansfield (45 minutes W —Bob Schneider Long —Phil Lesh and friends, $14; at 7:30 p.m.— at 7:30 and 10 p.m.— at 7:30 p.m.— 14 & 15 July 6 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.— July 5 & 6, July 11–13 tickets: t 7:30 p.m. t 4 p.m. 8, —Madonna, at 9 p.m. a a tickets: $35 & 45; Whether Upstairs, Whether —Robin McKelle and Friends. An intima July 14 at 2 p.m. —The Dirty Dozen Brass Band, —Beatlejuice, UISES, tickets: $15. July 15 tickets: July 13 July 12 tickets: $14; tickets: $20. July 15 July 7, t 8 p.m. July 6 July 7 at 4:30 p.m. $20; T CR July 7 & 8 $10; a 100 Legends tickets: $25–75. July 15 —The Weakerthans —The Weakerthans with The New rio; July 14 967 Commonwealth Ave., 967 Commonwealth 617-562- T $30; tie Melua, at 6:30 p.m. July 6 at 7:30 p.m. at 7:30 p.m. Broadway favorites and other classic songs Broadway favorites and other classic 9 & 10 tional performers. Marty Ballou Trio; Trio; Marty Ballou tickets: Routes 140 and 146, tickets: tickets: $16; —The Young Dubliners, —The Young tickets: $25; aylor Prudential Tower, 52nd floor, 617-536-1775. THERS REST CONCERT SERIES, THERS REST CONCERT T at 9 p.m. —Ka Hampshire House, 84 Beacon St., 617-227- tickets: $18; —Colin Hay, tickets: The former FleetCenter not only hosts Celtics and third floor of The Charles Hotel,third floor of 1 Bennett St., $29.50–35; TH GARDEN, July 6, Lee Childs Group. July 12 July 14 July 15 von Frankenreiter with Don McCloskey, von Frankenreiter Chris July 12 drink and the best view in Boston as you s —Kelly Clarkson, t 9 p.m. July 14 July 16 at 8 p.m.— a . for these weekly evening cruises, which feature a buffet tickets: Paradise is one of Boston’s favorite rock clubs. is one of Boston’s Paradise y Mouth, Call for complete schedule. Call for complete Wed–Sat, from 9 p.m.–midnight, tickets:Wed, $5 Thu, $10 Call for complete schedule. Call for complete tickets: $29.50–50; —Dona and Hooray for Earth, —Mission of Burma with Neptune y Move A Picture and The Adored, The and A Picture y Move The Guilty Men, y food,

BANKNOR at noon— wbo —Don Caballero,

Incident with Bob Weir and Ratdog, Weir Incident with Bob 16 Underground featuring Killswitch Engage, GWAR, In Flames and others, ets: $22; with The with Snake Trio, 8:30 p.m.— 9600. ets: $15; 14 or in the Corner,or in the showcases best in alternative/indie the this club rock bands. Playground, Boylston Street Bridge, 617-747-2447. Ever Amsterdams and Greg Graffin, p.m. Mr.White Limo, Brownstone with jazz and classics from the Great American Songbook. from the Great jazz and classics Enjo 10 & 16 performed by pianist/vocalist Bobby Wetherbee. performed by pianist/vocalist Bobby sound, noted. 18+ unless otherwise p.m. 8800. TIXX. L. aboard the Boston Harbor Cruise boat Hop Frederick Nolan Jr dinner from Ivy restaurant and live rock, blues and soul music from regional and na TWEETER CENTER, TOP OF THE HUB, TD SWINGING IN MO tickets: $25; tickets: $26; Kendrick Oliver and the New Life Jazz Orchestra, ROCK AND BLUES CONCER Gonzalo Rubalcaba, Juanito Pasqual, REGATTABAR, Cambridge, 617-661-5099. PIANO LOUNGE, July 12 PARADISE ROCK CLUB, ROCK PARADISE noted. and Co $15 Fri and $20 Sat. $15 Fri to the public. Bob Nieske Group, featuring vocalist Maggie Galloway; 617-624-1000. Bruins home games, indoor concert arena for the but is the premier city of Boston. with Trey Anastasio and Mike Gordon with the Benevento Russo Trey with Duo, 7:30 p.m. south of Boston), 617-931-2000. The concerts at this outdoor amphitheater a hallmark of summer and boast some of pop are biggest acts. music’s PANORAMA

curr ent e ent ents v

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MLL ALL-STAR GAME MAJOR LEAGUE LACROSSE just days after the February 1848 revolution. As Monsieur Chopin’s Nickerson Field, Boston University, 888-847-9700 lesson unfolds, he reveals secrets about the art of the piano and July 6 at 7 p.m. MLL All-Stars vs. U.S. National Team composition, as well as secrets about himself.

NEW ENGLAND REVOLUTION MAJOR LEAGUE SOCCER NO EXIT, American Repertory Theatre, Zero Arrow Theatre, Zero Gilette Stadium, One Patriot Place, Foxborough, Arrow St., Cambridge, 617-547-8300. Performances through 800-543-1776 or 877-GETREVS. July 9: Tue–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 and 8 p.m., fresh & honest

July 14 at 7:30 p.m. vs. Real Salt Lake Sun at 2 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $38 & 50. In an encore presenta- curr tion of the hit show from earlier this year, ART presents Jean-Paul NORTH SHORE SPIRIT CAN-AM LEAGUE Sartre’s classic thriller—part philosophical melodrama, part PROFESSIONAL BASEBALL farce—which revolves around three recently deceased strangers Fraser Field, 365 Western Ave., Lynn, 781-592-0007. who find themselves locked in a drawing room, trapped together ents

July 3 & 5 at 7:05 p.m. vs. New Jersey Jackals for eternity in an endless love triangle that forms their own private ent e

v July 4 at TBA vs. New Jersey Jackals hell. Imago Theatre’s stylish production sets the stage in a mad- July 10 & 11 at 7:05 p.m. vs. Sussex Skyhawks deningly unstable world—where the three inmates must literally July 12 at 12:05 p.m. vs. Sussex Skyhawks fight to retain their footing with every step. serving breakfast, lunch, July 14 at 7:05 p.m. vs. Brockton Rox supper and brunch July 15 at 6:05 p.m. vs. Brockton Rox RHINOCEROS, TheatreZone, Mary O’Malley Park, Commandant’s

July 16 at 2:05 p.m. vs. Brockton Rox Way, on the Chelsea Waterfront (Admiral’s Hill), 617-887-2336. v ent e

Performances beginning July 12: Wed–Sat at 7:30 p.m.; July 14 ents performance in Spanish. Free and open to the public. This outdoor THEATER production of Eugene Ionesco’s landmark play uniquely studies the contemporary tension between individuality and adaptation, reason THE BEARD OF AVON, Publick Theatre, Christian Herter Park, and nature. As Berenger, an alcoholic, sexually frustrated bachelor

curr Soldiers Field Road, 617-782-5425. Performances through July trying to turn his life around, shares Sunday brunch at a local out- 16: Wed, Thu & Sun at 7:30 p.m., Fri & Sat at 8 p.m. Tickets: $25 door cafe with his friend Jean, the townspeople begin to inexplicably 617.661.5005 & 30. Playwright Amy Freed takes on the controversy of the true turn into rhinoceroses. Instinctive terror turns into justification as at the charles hotel authorship of Shakespeare’s plays, unleashing an irreverent farce people learn to “move with the times” in this absurdist masterpiece. in the spirit of Shakespeare in Love to save us all from taking our- MONSIEUR CHOPIN: Hershey Felder portrays harvard square selves too seriously. Publick Theatre artistic director Diego the great composer in his one-man show at the SHEAR MADNESS, Charles Playhouse Stage II, 74 Warrenton St., www.charleshotel.com Arciniegas directs. Loeb Drama Center. Refer to listing, below. 617-426-5225. Performances: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 6:30 and 9:30 p.m., and Sun at 3 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $34–50. Boston’s BLUE MAN GROUP, Charles Playhouse, 74 Warrenton St., 617- hilarious whodunnit where the audience takes a stab at catching 931-2787 or 617-426-6912. Performances: Wed & Thu at 8 p.m., the killer. Become an armchair sleuth in the longest-running non- Fri at 7 p.m., Sat at 4, 7 and 10 p.m., Sun at 2 and 5 p.m. Tickets: his storytelling (which explores the history of the form from musical play in U.S. history. $48–58. This giddily subversive off-Broadway hit features three ancient times to vaudeville, as well as his work on the television muted, blue-painted performers who spoof both contemporary art series) and his skill, with a parade of characters that range from a SINGIN’ IN THE RAIN, North Shore Music Theatre, 62 Dunham and modern technology through wry commentary and bemusing subversive monkey to a befuddled tennis ball. Road, Beverly, 978-232-7200. Performances beginning July 5: antics. The show has been updated to include new performance Tue–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri and Sat at 8 p.m., Wed at 1:30 p.m., Sat pieces, new music and alterations to the sound and lighting design. THE LAST DAYS OF JUDAS ISCARIOT, Company One, Plaza and Sun at 2 p.m. Tickets: $35–70. Experience all the glitz and glam- Theatre, Boston Center for the Arts, 539 Tremont St., 617-933-8600. our of Hollywood’s golden age. It’s 1927, and Don Lockwood and BTW UNBOUND 2006, Boston Theatre Works, Plaza Black Box Performances beginning July 14: Thu–Sat at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 p.m., Lina LaMont are the toast of Tinseltown until “talkies” come on the Theatre, Boston Center for the Arts, 539 Tremont St., 617-728- and Sun at 7 p.m. Tickets: $15–25. This Boston premiere by Stephen scene in this re-creation of the classic Gene Kelly movie musical. 4321. Performances July 10–16: Thu–Sat at 8 p.m., and Sun at Adly Guirgis (Our Lady of 121st Street ) is set in a world between noon. Tickets: suggested $10–15 donation. Boston Theatre Works Heaven and Hell, where agnostic lawyer Fabiana Aziza Cunningham annually invites playwrights from around the globe to submit has brought before the court The New Testament’s most infamous TICKETS entries to this summer play festival, presenting the winners’ work, and unexplained sinner—Judas Iscariot. Fabiana and her oppos- in workshop form, in 3 evening performances, and an all-day ing prosecutor, Yusef El-Fayoumy, call on a cavalcade of witnesses BOSTIX, Faneuil Hall Marketplace and Copley Square, 617-723- showing on Sunday. This is a great showcase of hot new works from Sigmund Freud to Satan in this dark courtroom comedy. 5181. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Faneuil Hall location closed Mon); by the country’s best playwrights and a terrific opportunity to see Sun 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Information and tickets, including half-price several pieces in progress. LUCKY STIFF, Turtle Lane Playhouse, 283 Melrose St., Newton, seats on day of event, for the best performing arts around Boston. 617-244-0169. Performances beginning July 14: Thu–Sat at 8 Subject to availability. HAPPY DAYS, Gloucester Stage Company, 267 East Main St., p.m. Tickets: $24. Lynn Ahrens and Stephen Flaherty (Once On Gloucester, 978-281-4433. Performances July 6–16: Wed–Sat at This Island, My Favorite Year, Ragtime) exploded on the musical EXPLORERS PASS, Available at 60 Rowes Wharf, 800-887-9103. 8 p.m., Sat at 3 p.m., and Sun at 5 p.m. Tickets: $15–35. In honor theatre scene with this zany, offbeat murder mystery farce about Pass price: $35. The pass offers admission to 10 top Boston of the 100th anniversary of Samuel Beckett’s birthday, Gloucester an unassuming English shoe salesman forced to take the corpse attractions—including the New England Aquarium, JFK Stage presents his tour de force of frivolity, exploring language, rit- of his recently murdered Atlantic City croupier uncle on a week- Presidential Library and Boston Harbor Cruises—over a two-day ual and human interaction through Willie and his wife Winnie, who long vacation to Monte Carlo. Should he succeed, Harry period. Card holders are entitled to preferred entry at select attrac- becomes increasingly buried in a mound of earth. Witherspoon stands to inherit $6,000,000. If not, the money goes tions and savings of up to 20% at shops and restaurants. to the Universal Dog Home of Brooklyn. JAY JOHNSON: THE TWO & ONLY, American Repertory Theatre, GO BOSTON CARD, Available at Bostix locations at Faneuil Hall Zero Arrow Theatre, Zero Arrow St., Cambridge, 617-547-8300. MONSIEUR CHOPIN, American Repertory Theatre, Loeb Drama Marketplace and Copley Square and at the Visitor Information Performances beginning July 12: Sun–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri and Center, 64 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-547-8300. Performances: Center on Boston Common, 617-742-5950. Cards can be pur- 1237 Hancock St. 25 West Sreet Sat at 8 p.m., Sat and Sun at 2 p.m. Tickets: $38–50. Through the Tue–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 and 8 p.m., Sun at 2 chased in one, two, three, five and seven day increments, and range Quincy Center www.fajitasandritas.com Boston Common art of ventriloquism and a diverse array of comic figures, Jay and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $45. Hershey Felder (George Gershwin from $45–135 for adults, $25–65 for children. The GO Boston card Johnson (best known as Chuck on the classic TV comedy “Soap”) Alone) presents his one-man show about Frédéric Chopin, re-cre- offers unlimited free admission to more than 60 area atttractions, 617-774-1200 617-426-1222 ___ takes his audience on a multi-dimensional journey that combines ating a piano lesson that actually took place on March 4, 1848, as well as savings up to 20% at local shops and restaurants. ___ 34 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 35

CLUBS & BARS THE CACTUS CLUB, 939 Boylston St., 617-236-0200. is never a cover charge. Live Irish music Mon–Wed at 7:30 Sun–Wed 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Thu ‘til 11 p.m.; Fri–Sat ‘til p.m.; Sat at 9:30 p.m. Sun brunch features Irish musicians midnight; bar open ’til 2 a.m. daily. Famous for its mar- from noon–3 p.m. garitas, this restaurant and bar offers a full lunch and din- ner menu. Sun 10 p.m.–midnight—Free taco bar. MR. DOOLEY’S BOSTON TAVERN, 77 Broad St., Financial District, 617-338-5656. Open nightly. Fri & Sat $3 cover. This CASK ’N FLAGON, 62 Brookline Ave, 617-536-4840. authentic Irish pub features a charming ambiance, 13 Sun–Wed 11:30–1 a.m., Thu–Sat ’til 2 a.m. A hangout for imported drafts on tap and live music six nights a week. Red Sox fans since the days of Yastrzemski and Fisk, Journalists, politicians and young professionals find Mr. this classic bar boasts tons of TVs for watching the Sox— Dooley’s to be “a great place for a pint and a chat.” if you get shut out of Fenway Park across the street— and is loaded with photos depicting the histories of THE OAK BAR, Fairmont Copley Plaza Hotel, 138 St. James Fenway and the Sox. Recently given a major facelift, Ave., Copley Square, 617-267-5300. No cover. A favorite the Cask boasts a new back room with a dance floor among the fine scotch and cigar crowd, The Oak Bar is a and second bar. Boston favorite for upscale lounging. Sun–Thu 10:30

a.m.–midnight, Fri ‘til 12:30 a.m. and Sat ‘til 1 a.m. Tue & clubs & bar

s CHEERS, 84 Beacon St., 617-227-9605. Daily 11 Wed—Pianist Rebecca Cline; Thu—Pianist Steve Heck; Fri & a.m.–12:30 a.m. Also: Faneuil Hall Marketplace. The Sat—The Bill Laughlin Quartet. model for the late sitcom, this Back Bay pub is one of the top tourist attractions in Boston. Live weekend THE PURPLE SHAMROCK, 1 Union St., 617-227-2060. Daily entertainment. 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. Located on the Freedom Trail, The Purple Shamrock offers an escape from the nearby activity of DAISY BUCHANAN’S, 240 Newbury St., 617-247-8516. Quincy Market. Menu items include burgers, sandwiches, Daily 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. No cover. Cash only. Located on hearty pastas, fresh seafood, tender steaks and more. After Boston’s hopping Newbury Street, this casual singles spot dark, The Purple Shamrock has nightly entertainment, includ- attracts college students, businessmen and women, and ing a mix of live music, Tuesday karaoke and DJs. even the occasional professional athlete, and remains one SUNSET GRILL & TAP: With 112 beers on tap and of the city’s most popular bars. Full kitchen serves pub- TOP OF THE HUB, 800 Boylston St., 617-536-1775. Listen to many more by the bottle, the popular Allston water- style food seven nights a week. the sounds of live jazz seven nights a week while experiencing s

clubs & bar ing hole and restaurant features one of the best beer the breathtaking view atop Boston’s Prudential Center. Featuring selections in town. Refer to listing, page 64. DICK’S LAST RESORT, Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall a midnight menu, Sun–Wed ’til 1 a.m.; Thu–Sat ’til 2 a.m. Marketplace, 617-267-8080. Daily 11 a.m.–2 a.m. Live music seven nights a week. No cover, no dress code and certainly no class. Seventy-four kinds of beer for the NIGHTCLUBS PUBS AND BARS novice or serious sudster, and a full bar for the hardcore. This restaurant (of sorts) features buckets of messy ribs, shrimp, THE ALLEY, One Boylston Place, 617-351-7000. Fri–Sat 10 AUDOBON CIRCLE, 838 Beacon St., 617-421-1910. Daily lobster, chicken, catfish and crab legs. p.m.–2 a.m. Cover: $5–10. Located in the famous Boylston 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; bar open ’til 1 a.m. This stylish but wel- Street alleyway, this one-stop nightspot includes the Big Easy coming bar and restaurant offers great drinks and food in a GRAND CANAL, 57 Canal St., 617-523-1112. This Faneuil Bar, The Alley Cat, Sweetwater Cafe and the Liquor Store, hip, minimalist setting. Hall area restaurant and pub transports the authentic style of where you can ride Boston’s only mechanical bull. Party the Victorian Irish pub scene to Boston with high ceilings, Mardi Gras-style on Boston’s version of Bourbon Street. THE BELL IN HAND TAVERN, 45 Union St., 617-227-2098. antiques, red wallpaper, a grandfather clock rising over the Daily 11 a.m.–2 a.m. Opened in 1795, the Bell in Hand is the bar, photos of Dublin’s Grand Canal, a balcony, an alcove and ARIA, 246 Tremont St., 617-338-7080. Thu–Sat 11 p.m.–2 oldest tavern in the U.S. This casual pub, offering pints, food a working fireplace. Cover varies. a.m. Cover: $5–20. Call for age restrictions. Located in the and live music, attracts locals, students, and tourists alike. basement of the Wilbur Theatre, this nightspot features chic Tue—Karaoke night. THE GREEN DRAGON TAVERN, 11 Marshall St., 617-367- decor with plush red couches and dance music—from 0055. Boston’s premier 18th-century tavern on the Freedom International to House. Dress to impress. BILL’S BAR, 5.5 Lansdowne St., 617-421-9678. Wed–Sat 9 Trail. Serving lunch and dinner daily with lobster specials p.m.–2 a.m.; Sun 10 p.m.–2 a.m. Call for cover and age Mon–Thu. Entertainment nightly with a traditional Irish ‘seisi- AVALON, 15 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2424. Thu–Sun 10 restrictions. A laid-back, no frills, no fuss bar with music un’ every Sat from 4–8 p.m. p.m.–2 a.m. Cover: $10–20. 19+ Thu & Fri. One of Boston’s entertainment nightly. Sun—Reggae Sundays. premier nightclubs featuring Euro and Top 40 dance nights. JAKE IVORY’S, 9 Lansdowne St., 617-247-1222. Open It’s also the city’s largest club venue for live music acts. THE BLACK ROSE, 160 State St., next to Faneuil Hall Thu–Sat. Cover: $5–8, table reservations available. Come join Thu—Fling night; Fri—renowned DJs from around the world Marketplace, 617-742-2286. Daily 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. Enjoy the crowds who marvel at (and sing along with) the dueling at Avaland; Sat—Tease with DJ Adilson; Sun—Gay Night. live Irish music nightly and on select afternoons in an pianists at this club in the heart of nightlife central, authentic pub setting. Lansdowne Street. Great for a casual night out, after work AXIS, 13 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2437. Daily 10 p.m.–2 parties or friendly get-togethers. a.m.; closed Tue & Wed. Cover: $5–20. 19+. Mon—Static, BRISTOL LOUNGE, Four Seasons Hotel, 200 Boylston St., gay night; Fri & Sat—Hip-hop and R&B. 617-351-2052. Jazz entertainers create sounds as lush as JULIEN BAR, Langham Hotel, 250 Franklin St., 617-451- their setting on a Boston-made, antique Steinert piano. Live 1900. No cover. Enjoy cocktails and piano entertainment in BOSTON BILLIARD CLUB, 126 Brookline Ave., 617-536- music Thu–Sat. this historic lounge, voted Boston’s “Best Fancy Bar.” POOL. Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun noon–2 a.m. 18+ Mon–Sat from 11 p.m.–1 a.m.—Pianist Jeffrey Moore; Sun Sun–Thu. Ranked Number One Billiard Club in the country by BUKOWSKI’S TAVERN, 50 Dalton St., 617-437-9999. from 11 a.m.–3 p.m.—Sunday Jazz Brunch in Café Fleuri. Billiards Digest, this nightspot is perfect for pool aficionados Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun noon–2 a.m. Cash only. and novices alike. Free parking. Mon—free lessons; Wed— Traditional pub-style food and more than 100 types of beer KINSALE IRISH PUB AND RESTAURANT, Two Center Plaza, Music Trivia Night & Ladies’ Night: each lady gets 25% off characterize this cozy and unpretentious hole-in-the-wall Cambridge Street, 617-742-5577. The city’s only Irish pub table time, four ladies per table play for free; Mon, Tue & ___ space near the Prudential Center Mall. and restaurant built in Ireland and shipped to Boston. There Thu—League Night. ___ 36 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 37

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES GAME ON, 82 Lansdowne St., 617-351-7001. Mon–Fri 11:30 BOSTON a.m.–2 a.m.; Sat & Sun 10 a.m.–2 a.m. The ultimate for any sports club enthusiast: a bar/restaurant/nightclub built inside BOSTON CHILDREN’S MUSEUM, Museum Wharf, 300 Fenway Park. The newest jewel in the renovation of the Congress St., 617-426-8855. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri Fenway area, this nightspot offers a cool, sleek spot in which ’til 9 p.m. Admission: $9; children (2–15) & seniors $7; children to sample a full menu and watch the Sox, and other sporting (one-year-olds only) $2; children (under 1) free; Fri 5–9 p.m. events, on any number of big-screen TVs. (Family Night) $1. The museum features a plethora of interac- tive exhibits that allow children to learn about science, history JILLIAN’S BOSTON, 145 Ipswich St. (behind Fenway Park), and culture firsthand. Exhibits include: Construction Zone, a 617-437-0300. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–2 a.m, Sun noon–2 a.m. child-sized work site with miniature skyscrapers inspired by Sun–Thu 18+. One of Boston’s largest entertainment com- the Big Dig; Arthur’s World, settings of the popular book series plexes, this fun and diverse club features 50 pool tables, 200 where children can write and star in their own Arthur adven- high-tech games, blackjack for fun and six full bars. Lucky tures; Boston Black, celebrating Boston’s Caribbean, African “The Original” “The Replica” Strike Lanes bowling is located on the third floor, and there’s and African-American cultures; Play It By Ear, create and inter- 84 Beacon Street Faneuil Hall Marketplace late-night dancing at Tequila Rain (“spring break 52 weeks a act with works of sound art; SuperWomen. Refer to Kids Beacon Hill Downtown year”) on the first floor. Proper dress required. Corner in Current Events for special events.

s 617-227-9605 617-227-0150 THE RACK, 24 Clinton St., 617-725-1051. Mon–Fri 4 p.m.–2 COMMONWEALTH MUSEUM, Massachusetts Archives Redeem this coupon for a.m, Sat & Sun 3 p.m.–2 a.m. An upscale restaurant and bil- Building, 220 Morrissey Blvd., 617-727-9268. Mon–Fri from 9 liards club featuring 14 tournament-sized pool tables and a a.m.–5 p.m., Sat ’til 3 p.m. Free admission. Across from the 10% off in our gift shop or huge dance floor, The Rack is one of the hottest hangouts for JFK Presidential Library, this museum houses the collection of from your restaurant bill at pro athletes and local celebs. Proper dress required. Special the Massachusetts Archives and is ideal for fans of history or our C locations event: July 9 from 4–8 p.m.—Blues benefit concert to sup- genealogy. Special exhibits: Archaeology of the Big Dig; Le Grand 5 0

port the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute, tickets $20. Derangement: The Acadian Exile in Massachusetts, 1755–1766. m a

Coupon must be presented to sales associate or server upon purchase, m a prior to ordering. Limit one coupon per visit/table (food only). Cannot r o n useums & g

be used in conjunction with any other offer. Expires December 31, 2006. a SAINT, Copley Square Hotel, 90 Exeter St., 617-236-1134. ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM, 280 The Fenway, P Daily 5 p.m.–2 a.m.; closed Tue & Wed. Table reservations 617-566-1401. Open Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $10; JOHN F. KENNEDY PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY available. One of Boston’s hottest nightclubs, Saint offers weekends $11; seniors $7; students with I.D. $5; children (under AND MUSEUM: The exhibit A Journey Home: Pub • Restaurant • Gift Shop gourmet dining, nightly DJs, and the chance to lounge on 18) free. Visitors named Isabella are admitted free. Commissioned John F. Kennedy and Ireland explores President

clubs & bar www.cheersboston.com overstuffed couches (and even beds) in private and public by Boston aristocrat Isabella Stewart Gardner and modeled after a Kennedy’s relationship to his ancestral homeland. rooms. Proper dress required. 15th-century Venetian palace, the museum exhibits 2,500 objects, Refer to listing, below. including the works of Rembrandt, Botticelli, Raphael, Titian and SANCTUARY, 189 State St., 617-573-9333. Open nightly Matisse. Special exhibit: Artist-in-residence Henrik Håkansson. until 2 a.m. Spread out over three floors, Sanctuary bills itself as “Boston’s premiere dining and lounge experience,” featur- JOHN F. KENNEDY PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM, off www.afroammuseum.org. Open Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Free ing a full menu, outdoor seating for lunch and dinner, and Morrissey Boulevard, next to UMass Boston, Dorchester, 866-535- admission; donations welcome. Explore the history of Boston’s 19th- resident DJs Thu–Sat. Voted one of the sexiest bars in 1960. www.jfklibrary.org. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: century African-American community at the African Meeting House, Boston by Boston magazine. $10; students & seniors $8; children (13–17) $7; children (under the oldest African-American church still standing in the United States.

12) free; library forums free. This museum portrays Kennedy’s life, In addition, there are tour maps available for the Black Heritage Trail. alleries leadership and legacy in 21 exhibits, three theaters, 20 video pre- GAY AND LESBIAN sentations and more. Special exhibits: A Journey Home, John F. THE MUSEUM OF THE NATIONAL CENTER OF AFRO-AMERICAN Kennedy and Ireland explores President Kennedy’s relationship ARTISTS, 300 Walnut Ave., Roxbury, 617-442-8614. Open Tue–Sun CLUB CAFE, 209 Columbus Ave., 617-536-0966. Thu–Sat 11 to his ancestral homeland; Handmade and Heartfelt, Folk Art 1–5 p.m.; by appointment for groups. Admission: $4; students & a.m.–2 a.m. No cover. In the back of the 209 restaurant, from the collections of the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library. seniors $3. Housed in the former Oak Bend Mansion, a neo-Gothic you’ll find the Moonshine and Satellite lounges, voted “Best structure built in the early 1870s, this museum holds a slide of Boston” by Boston magazine and The Improper Bostonian LARZ ANDERSON AUTO MUSEUM, Larz Anderson Park, 15 archive and an extensive collection of African artifacts, prints and for best gay and lesbian nightspot. Wed–Sat at 8 p.m.— Newton St., Brookline, 617-522-6547. Open Tue–Sun 10 a.m.–5 drawings; it also hosts national and international traveling exhibits. Moonshine Video Bar. p.m. Admission: $5; students, seniors and children (6–18) $3; children (5 and under) free. Admission to the Lawn events: $7; MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. JACQUES CABARET, 79 Broadway St., 617-426-8902. children $5. Fee includes admission to all museum exhibits. The Open Sat–Tue 10 a.m.–4:45 p.m., Wed–Fri 10 a.m.–9:45 p.m. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–midnight, Sun noon–midnight. Cover: $6, oldest collection of historic automobiles in the nation is displayed (Thu & Fri after 5 p.m., west wing only). Admission (includes two $10 Fri & Sat. Cash only. Featured in Modern Bride as the in the owner’s original home. Lawn events: July 8—Micro and visits in a 10-day period): $15; students & seniors $13; Thu & Fri Can you imagine... “best place for a bachelorette party,” Jacques Cabaret allows Mini Car Day; July 16—American Muscle Day. after 5 p.m., $2 discount; Wed after 4 p.m., pay as you wish; its patrons to mingle and disco-dance with drag-queens. children (under 18) $6.50 on weekdays before 3 p.m., free at all a world without children? Mon—Tranny show;Tue—Karaoke; Wed—Delightful Divas; THE MARY BAKER EDDY LIBRARY, 200 Mass. Ave., 888-222- other times. Separate ticketing for Gund Gallery exhibit. The Thu—Jacques Angels; Fri & Sat—Miss Leading Ladies; 3711. Open Tue–Sun from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Admission: $6; seniors, museum houses an outstanding collection of paintings, prints, Sun—Amateur Talent Night. students with ID and youth (6–17) $4; children (under 6) and sculptures, furnishings and other artwork from ancient times We Can’t. members free. Home to the world-famous Mapparium, a three- through the present, and the most comprehensive collection of Call 1-800-877-5833 to help. MACHINE, 1254 Boylston St., 617-536-1950. Fri & Sat 10 story stained-glass globe depicting the world as it existed in 1934, Asiatic art in the world. Special exhibits: Americans in Paris, p.m.–2 a.m. Cover varies. Cash only. With two dance floors, which guests can walk through. Visitors to the library can follow 1860–1900, ticketed separately: $23, seniors and students $21, www.stjude.org four bars, six pool tables, pinball machines, video games and Mary Baker Eddy’s quest for insight and embark on one of their youth (ages 7-17) $7.50 ; On Stage in Osaka: Actor Prints from theme nights, this club offers Boston’s gay and lesbian party- own through interactive exhibits in the Quest Gallery, or try out a the MFA Collection; Degas to Picasso: Modern Masters; Tradition goers a plethora of nightlife options. Mon—Stroke Mondays, “desk job” at the Pulitzer Prize-winning Christian Science Monitor and Transformation: Japanese Art 1860–1940; Light My Fire: Strip-Pool tournament; Thu at 10 p.m.—Karaoke with Eve Special exhibit: A Church in the Neighborhood. Rock Posters from the Summer of Love; Laura McPhee: River of Adams; Fri—VJ Tom Yaz and DJ Darrin Friedman; Sat—DJ No Return; through July 9—Contemporary Cloth: Stoles by Dovah and International night featuring DJ J.R. Vega. THE MUSEUM OF AFRO-AMERICAN HISTORY, African Meeting Minagawa Makiko; Contemporary Clay, Japanese ceramics for ___ House, 46 Joy St. (corner of Smith Court), Beacon Hill, 617-725-0022. the new century; beginning July 8—Understanding the Master, ___ 38 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 39

Dong Qichang and his circle. Special event: beginning July 6— through July 4—Scopes, Station Wagons and Solder, unexpected 11th Boston French Film Festival, including screenings of images from the Rad Lab and RLE Collections. Gabrielle, Le Petit Lieutenant, Palais Royale! and others. SACKLER MUSEUM, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617-495- MUSEUM OF SCIENCE, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Open daily 9400. Tours: Mon–Fri at 2 p.m.; see Busch-Reisinger Museum for from 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri ’til 9 p.m. Admission: $14; seniors $12; hours and admission fees. Designed by James Stirling, Britain’s children (3–11) $11; children (under 3) free. Planetarium, laser famous post-modernist architect, the museum houses ancient show and Omni theater tickets: $8.50; seniors $7.50; children Oriental and Islamic collections. Special exhibits: The Tablet and (3–11) $6.50. Combination ticket prices and evening discounts avail- the Pen: Drawings from the Islamic World; beginning July 8— able. Interactive science exhibits, plus laser and astronomy shows in Cultivating Virtue, botanical motifs and symbols in East Asian art. the Charles Hayden Planetarium. Special exhibit: Weatherwise, exploring the science and technology of weather forecasting. At the Mugar Omni Theater: Refer to Film listings in Current Events for BEYOND BOSTON complete schedule. Showing at the Planetarium: Destination Moon; Far, Far Away: The Worlds of Star Wars; The Sky Tonight. At the CONCORD MUSEUM, 200 Lexington Road, Concord, 978-369- Wright 3D Theater: Mars!; Majestic Elephants and Rhinos 3D; Bugs! 9763. Daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $8; seniors & students with I.D. $7; children (6–17) $5; family rates available. Ample free SPORTS MUSEUM OF NEW ENGLAND, 5th and 6th floor pre- parking on Cambridge Turnpike. Relive Concord’s history, from mium seating levels, TD Banknorth Garden, Causeway Street, Native American habitation and European settlement to the days 617-624-1234. Open daily 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission on the of Emerson, Thoreau, the Alcotts and Hawthorne. Special exhibit: hour only, until 3 p.m. Hours altered during TD Banknorth through July 4—The Purse and the Person, a century of Garden events, call ahead. Admission: $6; seniors & children women’s purses. Special events: July 4—Independence Day (6–17) $4; children (under 6) free. The Sports Museum show- Celebration; July 12—Thoreau's Birthday.

cases New England’s rich sports heritage through an unparal- m leled collection of artifacts, multimedia and artwork. Exhibits DECORDOVA MUSEUM AND SCULPTURE PARK, 51 Sandy Pond

include the Boston Bruins Hall of Fame portraits, the Boston Road, Lincoln, 781-259-8355. Admission: $9; seniors, students & useums & g Garden Penalty Box and New England’s Olympic Heroes. children (6–12) $6. Sculpture Park: open sunrise to sunset, free admission. Tour one of the largest contemporary art museums U.S.S. CONSTITUTION MUSEUM, Charlestown Navy Yard, Charles- INTERNATIONAL POSTER GALLERY: The and the only permanent public sculpture park in New England. town, 617-426-1812. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Free admission. Newbury Street gallery features the show Special exhibits: Great Buys: Museum Purchases, celebrating 10 The museum preserves the treasures of “Old Ironsides,” the U.S. Summer Delights. Refer to listing, page 42. years of the Art Acquisition Fund; 2006 DeCordova Annual Navy’s flagship and the world’s oldest commissioned warship. Exhibition featuring 12 regional artists; beginning July 6— alleries Includes weapons, documents, journals and more. Interactive Children's Summer Programs Exhibition. Special events: July 12 exhibits allow visitors to load and fire a cannon, try out a sailor’s at 4:30 p.m.—Twilight Sculpture Park Tour; July 16 at 1 p.m.— sleeping quarters and virtually command the Constitution in battle. HARVARD MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, 26 Oxford St., 617- Eye Wonder Family Program featuring guest artist Evelyn Rydz. Special exhibit: A Sailor’s Life for Me? Special events: through July 495-3045. Daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $9; college students & 4—True Tales of the USS Constitution; July 4 at 11 a.m.—4th of seniors $7; children (3–18) $6; free Sun 9 a.m.–noon. Among the NATIONAL HERITAGE MUSEUM, 33 Marrett Road, Lexington, 781- July Harbor Turnaround Cruise. museum’s 17 galleries is the internationally acclaimed Ware 861-6559. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Free admis-

Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants, a unique collection sion. Devoted to presenting exhibitions on American history and alleries CAMBRIDGE of over 3,000 glass flower models created between 1886 and popular culture as a way of preserving our national heritage. 1936. Special exhibits: The Miracle Bird: The Story of the Ivory- Special exhibits: Gershwin to Gillespie, portraits in American music; Due to limited parking, it is best to take the Red Line when billed Woodpecker; Dodos, Trilobites and Meteorites; Climate Collection Gems, rare books and maps from the Van Gorden- traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall squares. The Change: Our Global Experiment; Looking at Landscape, environ- Williams Library; American Family Treasures, decorative arts from Cambridge Discovery Booth located at the Harvard Square mental puzzles from three photographers. the D.J. and Alice Shumway Nadeau collection; Journey Out of “T” entrance provides additional information. Darkness, American heroes in Hitler’s POW camps; American useums & g MIT LIST VISUAL ARTS CENTER, 20 Ames St., 617-253-4680. Visions of Liberty and Freedom. Special events: July 6 & 13 at 7:30 BUSCH-REISINGER MUSEUM, Werner Otto Hall, 32 Quincy St. Tue–Sun noon–6 p.m.; Fri ’til 8 p.m. Free admission. One of p.m.—Outdoor concerts by the Metropolitan Wind Symphony, free. m (enter through the Fogg Art Museum), 617-495-9400. Open Boston’s premier showcases for contemporary art, the List Center Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sun 1–5 p.m. Tours: Mon–Fri at 1 reflects MIT’s position as a cutting-edge research institution by PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM, East India Square, Salem, 866-745- p.m. Admission: $7.50, seniors & college students $6; children presenting works from the world’s leading contemporary artists. 1876. Daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $13; seniors $11; students (under 18) free; Sat 10 a.m.–noon, free. A museum devoted to Special exhibits: Original Architecture Drawings and Prints by $9; children (16 and under) free. The nation’s oldest continually oper- Central and Northern European artists, with an emphasis on Richard Fleischner; On the Media Test Wall: Markus Hansen: Other ating museum boasts a brand-new wing with a 190-seat auditorium German-speaking countries. Special exhibits: Art and Design People’s Feelings are also my Own (Soul Drawings); through July and a glass-covered atrium. The collection showcases African, from Central and Northern Europe since 1880; German Art of the 9—Nine Evenings Reconsidered: Art, Theatre and Engineering, Asian, Pacific Island and American folk and decorative art, a mar- 1980s from the Heliod Spiekermann Collection; Extra Ordinary 1966; The Choreographic Turn, works by Daria Martin and Peter itime collection dating back to the museum’s earliest days, and the Every Day: The Bauhaus at the Busch-Reisinger; Objects for a Welz in collaboration with choreographer William Forsythe. first collection of Native American art in the hemisphere. Special Kunstkammer: Early European Collecting, 1550–1700. exhibits: Intersections: Native American Art in a New Light; The THE MIT MUSEUM, 265 Mass. Ave., 617-253-4444. Mon–Fri 10 Yachting Photography of Willard P.Jackson; Painting Summer in New FOGG ART MUSEUM, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617-495- a.m.–5 p.m., Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students, England; Exposing the Source, paintings of Nalini Malani; Carved by 9400. Tours: Mon–Fri at 11 a.m.; see Busch-Reisinger Museum seniors & youth (5–18) $2. Exhibits interpret themes and ideas Nature, untamed traditions in Chinese decorative art; Owls in Art for hours and admission fees. The museum displays European related to MIT research and activities. Ongoing exhibits: Mind and and Nature; All of My Life, contemporary works by Native American and American masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the pres- Hand: The Making of MIT Scientists and Engineers; Holography: artists; Taj Mahal: The Building of a Legend; Yin Yu Tang, the 16- ent and hosts concerts and guided tours. Special exhibits: The The Light Fantastic; Robots and Beyond: Exploring Artificial bedroom home of a prosperous Chinese merchant of the Qing Western Tradition: Art since the Renaissance; Modern Art, Intelligence at MIT; Gestural Engineering: The Sculpture of Arthur Dynasty (1644–1911), ticketed separately: $4; beginning July 1865–1965; American Art at Harvard; 18th-Century European Ganson; Flashes of Inspiration: The Work of Harold Edgerton; Deep 15—Of Gods and Mortals: Traditional Art from India. Special events: Ceramics and Paintings; Nominally Figured: Recent Acquisitions Frontiers: Ocean Engineering at MIT; Ship Models: The Evolution of July 8 & 9 at 12:30 p.m.—Dance Performance with Stephen ___ in Contemporary Art. Ship Design. Special exhibits: Tech’ing it to the Next Level; Blanchett; July 14 at 8 p.m.—Music at Eden’s Edge Concert Series. ___ ABOVE: ERIC H ERMES, C AUX—SUR M ONTREUX S UISSE ( DETAIL), C . 1935 40 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 41

THE ROSE ART MUSEUM, Brandeis University, 415 South St., displays original vintage posters from the 1890s through to post- Waltham, 781-736-3434. Tue–Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3; World War II modern masters. Special exhibit: Summer Delights. museum members and children (under 16) free. The Rose boasts a collection of modern and contemporary art by artists JUDI ROTENBERG GALLERY, 130 Newbury St., 617-437-1518. including de Kooning, Rauschenberg and Warhol. Special www.judirotenberg.com. Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. The Judi exhibits: Paintings by Sarah Walker; I Love My Time, I Don’t Like Rotenberg Gallery is one of the longest standing independent gal- My Time, works by Erwin Wurm. leries in Boston and is committed to both established and emerg- ing talent in all media. 1 SALEM WITCH MUSEUM, 19 /2 Washington Square North, Salem, 978-744-1692. Daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $6.50; seniors $6; L’ATTITUDE GALLERY, 218 Newbury St., 617-927-4400. Tue–Sat children (6–14) $4.50. Life-size stage settings and historically accu- 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun & Mon noon–5 p.m. This gallery boasts con- rate narration recreate the hysteria of the Salem Witch Trials and exe- temporary sculpture, crafts and art for the home, garden and com- Randi Solin • Glass cutions of 1692. Translations available in Japanese, French, German, mercial environments, as well as an outdoor sculpture garden. Over Italian and Spanish. Special exhibit: Witches: Evolving Perceptions. 75 U.S. and international artists are represented in various medi- ums, including glass, ceramics, wood, stone, mixed media and The Society of textiles. Special exhibit: All That Glitters, a group sculpture show. Arts and Crafts GALLERIES MILLS GALLERY, Boston Center for the Arts, 539 Tremont St., ARDEN GALLERY, 129 Newbury St., 617-247-0610. Mon–Sat 617-426-8835. Wed & Thu noon–5 p.m., Fri & Sat noon–10 11 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Arden specializes in contemporary oil paint- p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. The BCA presents exciting contemporary ings and sculpture by nationally and internationally renowned works by established and emerging local, regional, national and Visit our Retail & Exhibition Galleries artists, whose styles range from super realism to abstraction. international visual artists, mounting approximately six large- Special exhibit: Twin Allegories by Jorge Drosten. scale exhibitions in the 2,200 square foot Mills Gallery each 175 Newbury Street • Boston

year. Special exhibits: New Work by Brian Willmont; Motivational m (between Dartmouth & Exeter St.) ART INTERACTIVE, 130 Bishop Allen Drive, Cambridge, 617- Baggage, works by Caleb Neelon and Andrew Schoultz.

617-266-1810 498-0100. Sat & Sun noon–6 p.m. This non-profit experimental useums & g art space in Central Square offers a venue for Boston’s cutting- NIELSEN GALLERY, 179 Newbury St., 617-266-4835. Tue–Sat edge and imaginative artists in all media to display their works, 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Renowned for its fine collection of contempo- and for viewers to take an active and participatory role in relating rary paintings, drawings and sculptures. Special exhibit: Summer www.societyofcrafts.org to the pieces themselves. Special exhibit: Urban Networks. at Nielsen Gallery.

BARBARA KRAKOW GALLERY, 10 Newbury St., 617-262-4490. PEPPER GALLERY, 38 Newbury St., 617-236-4495. Tue–Fri 10 alleries Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. The Barbara Krakow Gallery attracts a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sat 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Committed to presenting top contemporary artists from around the world, showcasing work contemporary representational and abstract works by living that focuses on minimalism and conceptualism. Special exhibit: artists, the gallery rotates its exhibitions every five weeks to rep- Summer Group Show. resent different members of the artistic community, both estab- Fine Vintage Posters lished and up-and-coming. Special exhibit: through July 15— BOSTON SCULPTORS GALLERY, 486 Harrison Ave., 617-482- Oil illustrations by Katy Schneider.

7781. Tue–Sat noon–6 p.m. A sculptors’ cooperative that has alleries served as an alternative venue for innovative solo sculpture exhi- PHOTOGRAPHIC RESOURCE CENTER, Boston University, 832 bitions since 1992. Special exhibit: beginning July 5—Summer Commonwealth Ave., 617-353-0700. Tue, Wed, & Fri 10 a.m.–6 Group Exhibition. p.m., Thu 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3. PRC exhibitions and educational programs are guided by a philo- Offering a Creative Menu BROMFIELD ART GALLERY, 27 Thayer St., 617-451-3605. sophical inquiry into the intersection of photography wither aes- Specializing in Fresh Wed–Sat noon–5 p.m. Boston’s oldest artist-run gallery features thetic, professional and critical discourses. useums & g shows by members of the cooperative, while exhibitions by visiting Seafood and Homemade artists are selected by current members. Special exhibit: Active Art, PUCKER GALLERY, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. Mon–Sat m Pasta. Visit the Hyatt featuring photos and mixed media installations by Youth Art in Action. 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Features work by Israeli, Harborside and Relax in American and internationally known contemporary artists. The Our Unique Atmosphere, CHASE GALLERY, 129 Newbury St., 617-859-7222. Wed–Sat Boston Phoenix writes, “You can make a case for the Pucker Enjoy the Spectacular View noon–5 p.m. Since 1990, Chase Gallery has been one of the city’s Gallery as Boston’s best gallery—though it’s really more like a top galleries for the exhibition of contemporary artists, both repre- wonderful miniature museum.” Special exhibit: through July of the Boston Skyline and sentational and abstract. Special exhibit: beginning July 6— 12—Transformation & Use, new works by Ken Matsuzaki. Taste What Boston Is Works by Mark Chatterley. Talking About. SOCIETY OF ARTS AND CRAFTS, 175 Newbury St., 617-266- CHILDS GALLERY, 169 Newbury St., 617-266-1108. Tue–Fri 9 1810. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. The oldest non- a.m.–6 p.m.; Mon & Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m. The longest-running of profit crafts organization in the country specializes in contemporary the commercial Newbury Street galleries, Childs has one of the American crafts. The jewelry, furniture, glass and ceramics range largest inventories of oil paintings, drawings, watercolors, and from cutting edge to traditional, from functional to sculptural. Special Hyatt Harborside prints in the U.S. Special exhibits: beginning July 10—Fine exhibit: Old Friends, New Work, 25 years of studio furniture at SAC. 101 Harborside Drive Young Gentlemen: Beau Brummels, Dandies, Fops, Macaronies, Boston, MA 02128 and Fashion Plates; John Vanderlyn: Drawings by an American Old VOSE GALLERIES, 238 Newbury St., 617-536-6176. Mon–Fri (617) 568-6060 Master; Leo Blake: A Midwesterner Paints New England. 8:30 a.m.– 5:30 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Established in 205 Newbury Street www.boston.hyatt.com 1841, Vose Galleries—the oldest family-owned art gallery in the Open Daily, Parking Available [email protected] INTERNATIONAL POSTER GALLERY, 205 Newbury St., 617-375- United States—specializes in American artists from the 18th, www.internationalposter.com 0076. www.internationalposter.com. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun 19th and early 20th centuries. Its new contemporary wing, 617-375-0076 ___ noon–6 p.m. This internationally recognized fine art poster gallery expanding the collection to living artists, opened in 2001. ___ 42 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 43

MAP INDEX ADVERTISER INDEX Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum K3 125 BOSTON LODGING Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse H8 1 JFK Federal Building F10 126 Best Western Boston K1 GREATER BOSTON Dick’s Last Resort F11 2 JFK Library L10 127 Best Western Roundhouse Suites L8 John Hancock Tower H7 128 Fajitas & ’Ritas H9 3 Best Western Terrace Inn G1 Jordan Hall K5 Boston Harbor Hotel G12 Fenway Sportszone H5 4 Jorge Hernandez Cultural Center K7 129 Boston Marriot/Copley Place J7 Joseph Moakley Courthouse J13 Florentine Café F12 5 Boston Marriot/Long Wharf F12 Kenmore Square G3 Boston Park Plaza H8 The Hungry i F8 6 Kings Chapel & Burial Gr. G10 130 Brookline Courtyard by Marriott H1 Jasper White’s Summer Shack H5 7 Lansdowne Street H4 135 The Bulfinch Clarion Hotel E9 Louisburg Square F8 136 Charlesmark Hotel H7 Lucca Restaurant F11 8 Mass. College of Art K3 137 Club Quarters G11 Mamma Maria G12 9 Museum of Afro-American History F9 100 The Colonnade J6 Museum of Fine Arts K4 138 Comfort Inn & Suites Boston/Airport D16 P.F. Chang’s H9 10 Museum of Science D8 139 Copley Square Hotel H7 New England Aquarium G13 Days Inn Boston B1 New England Conservatory of Music K5 140 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Bayside L9 Advertiser map locator New Old South Church G6 141 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Downtown J9 North Station D9 Doubletree Guests Suites E1 Northeastern University K4 142 Eliot Suite Hotel H4 POINTS OF INTEREST Old City Hall G10 143 Embassy Suites Boston Logan Airport E15 African Meeting House F9 100 Old Corner Bookstore G10 144 The Fairmont Copley Plaza H7 Arlington Street Church G8 Old North Church E11 145 Fifteen Beacon Street G9 Back Bay Station J7 Old South Meeting House G10 146 Four Seasons Hotel H8 Bank of America Pavilion K14 115 Old State House G11 147 Hampton Inn, Crosstown Center L7 Berklee College of Music H5 102 The Opera House H9 148 The Harborside Inn G12 Berklee Performance Center H5 Park Street Church G10 149 Hilton Boston Back Bay H5 Black Falcon Cruise Port L15 Park Street Station G9 150 Hilton Boston/Financial District G12 Black Heritage Trail – – – F9 103 Paul Revere House E11 151 Hilton Boston Logan Airport F16 Boston Center for the Arts J8 104 Paul Revere Mall E12 152 Holiday Inn Express L9 Boston City Hall F10 Post Office Square G11 153 Holiday Inn/Logan Airport D16 Boston Common G9 Prudential Center H6 120 Holiday Inn/Brookline H1 Boston Convention & Exhibition Ctr. K13 The Public Garden (Swan Boats) G8 Holiday Inn Select/Government Center F9 Boston Design Center K15 Quincy Market G11 154 Holiday Inn/Somerville A6 Boston Massacre Site G11 Robert Gould Shaw Memorial G9 155 Hotel Buckminster G3 Boston Public Library H6 Rowes Wharf H13 Hotel Commonwealth G4 Boston Tea Party Ship & Museum J12 105 Shubert Theatre J9 Howard Johnson Lodge H3 Boston University G2 Sightseeing boats G13 Hyatt Harborside Hotel H15 Bunker Hill Monument B9 Simmons College K3 156 Hyatt Regency Boston, Financial District H10 Bunker Hill Pavilion (Charlestown map) C10 South Station Information Center J11 157 John Hancock Conference Center H7 Central Burying Ground H9 State House G9 Jurys Boston H8 Charles Playhouse J9 Suffolk University F9 158 Langham Hotel, Boston G11 Charlestown Navy Yard (Charlestown map) C11 Symphony Hall J5 159 La Quinta Inn Boston/Somerville A7 Cheers Bar G8 TD Banknorth Garden E10 116 Lenox Hotel H6 Children’s Museum J12 106 Tip O’Neill Building E9 160 Marriott Courtyard H7 Christian Science Center J5 107 Transportation Building H9 Marriott’s Custom House G12 Christopher Columbus Park F12 Trinity Church G7 161 Marriott Quincy L9 Citgo sign G3 USS Constitution (Charlestown map) D10 The Midtown Hotel J6 Colonial Theatre H9 USS Constitution Museum D10 Millennium Bostonian Hotel F11 Conference Center at Harvard Medical J2 108 Wang Center for the Performing Arts J9 162 Milner Hotel H9 Copley Place J7 109 Wheelock College J2 163 NINE ZERO Hotel G10 Copley Square H7 Wilbur Theatre J9 Omni Parker House G10 Copley Theatre H7 World Trade Center J14 Onyx Hotel E10 Copps Hill Burial Ground E11 110 Zoo New England/Franklin Park Zoo L6 164 Radisson Hotel H8 Custom House Tower G12 111 CAMBRIDGE MAP Ramada Inn Boston L9 Cutlter Majestic Theatre H9 Residence Inn by Marriott on Tudor Wharf D10 Downtown Crossing H10 Cambridge City Hall C4 Ritz Carlton Boston Common H10 Emerald Necklace J1-J11 CambridgeSide Galleria D7 Ritz Carlton Hotel G8 Emerson College H9 112 Harvard Art Museums-Fogg/Sackler B3 165 Seaport Hotel K14 Emmanuel College J2 113 Harvard Museum of Natural HistoryA3166 Sheraton Boston H6 Exchange Conference Ctr. J15 114 Harvard Square B2 Tremont House J9 Faneuil Hall G11 Harvard University B2 Westin Hotel/Copley Plaza J7 Fenway Park H3 MIT E5 Wyndham Chelsea A12 Freedom Trail • • • • • G9 117 Government Center G10 HEALTHCARE CAMBRIDGE LODGING Granary Burial Ground G10 118 Beth Israel Deaconess Med. Ctr.J2180 Charles Hotel B1 Hatch Memorial Shell F7 Boston Medical Center L8 181 Hampton Inn/Cambridge C7 Haymarket (Open-air market) F11 Brigham & Women’s Hosp. K1 182 Harvard Square Hotel B1 maps Horticultural Hall J5 119 Children’s Hospital K2 183 Hotel Marlowe D7 Huntington Theatre Co./BU Theatre K5 Dana Farber Cancer Institute K1 184 Hotel at MIT D4 Hynes Convention Center H5 Harvard School of Public Health L2 185 Hyatt Regency/Cambridge E3 Information Centers: Joslin Diabetes Center K1 184 Inn at Harvard B2 Boston Common G9 117 Longwood Medical area K2 Marriott/Cambridge Center E6 Prudential Center H6 120 Mass. Eye & Ear InfirmaryE8186 Radisson Hotel/Cambridge D2 National Park Service G11 121 Mass. General Hospital E8 187 Residence Inn by Marriott/Cambridge D6 Logan Airport (Terminals A & E) F16,G16 122 New England Baptist Hosp. L1 188 Royal Sonesta D7 Institute of Contemporary Art H5 123 New England Med. Ctr.J9189 Sheraton Commander A1 ___ International Place H12 124 Spaulding Rehabilitation Hosp. D9 190 44 PANORAMA CAMBRIDGE A A CHARLESTOWN A & SOMERVILLE •

• • B

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C • • LEGEND Freedom Trail & Sites • *W City Water Taxi Stops Charles River Basin C Pedestrian Bridges C D R Public Restrooms

21 Hwy. Entrances & Exits • LEGEND • MBTA Subway Stops • Charles River Basin T Green Line T Orange Line Pedestrian Bridges R Public Restrooms E MBTA Subway Stops D D T Red Line T Orange Line T Blue Line T Green Line • 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 FENWAY/ F

To Lowell To Reading, Haverhill To Newburyport, 93 Rockport KENMORE SQUARE MBTA SUBWAY MAP • 2 C P h OAK GROVE e l se a P WOONDNDEERLRLAANDND West Medford P Malden Revere Beach P Wellington 1 Beachmont P G Sullivan is v Square 1A Suffolk Downs P a P To Fitchburg P ALEWIFE D r te P n Orient Heights e Porter C t n P o LECHMERE Community College lm e Wood Island B 95 y e Harvard le ll r vi • ve n a 128 to R w I Science Park F4 Airport W e V N E T R E o Central s F n S u m r o North Station B C D a a t I le h m D Mavericktt lt in w C u g e E h a h N BOWDOIN S AIRPORT W a W o mst o u TERMINALS e & o Haymarkeet W rt W W Kendall/MIT h / o d o o

e S B is rc l la W B r e s ea ld u d rt d s n a U s L n e 90 n te d s B C Gov't T e A r 1 a b u r W S h U r o b q in e ra B R u a u g E nK Center Logan H t Aquarium d A b a to a rae a Harvard Ave re n s lnCharles/MGH e n t m S C International C State* il N BOSTON B o o ve tr Airport E C o r r . e li e L w COLLEGEli o d Park St i N o rn g n to e t t e e e n w S r W n C a H to to S y g t. o CLEVig ELAn ND CIRCLEn M p H C i a h C sh C r le y Downtown D lha e a y’ y n en n W s A e sd t s Crossing F1 F2 tsn re rl /I u Fenway in C t g A • R H to * e i n B Chinatown s ll Longwood Prudential o South B e 90 SL2 e r Symphony Backyl Station BOSTON MARINE a vo s NE Medical INDUSTRIAL PARK P c Northeastern Bay to o ir n Center B n Museum of Fine Arts ll ro s Longwood Hu o fi E. Berkeley St o k e Brigham Circle Mass Ave Broadway SL3 T m l ld ha in CITY POINT ng e Ruggles Newton St Hi P B H To ro i o lls Roxbury Mass Ave k Crossing Andrew J lin e MMelelnneaea CCasass BBlvdlvd P V HEATH E i Jackson Sq DDUDLEYUDLEY SQ lla g e Stony Brook Uphams JFK/UMass F2 P LEGEND Green St Corner H Savin Hill To Needhamig h FOREST HILLS P la n Terminal Station d P Fields • Wheelchair Corner Transit Station B Accessible e lle v u Shawmut y e c R n Transfer Station o i Parking s Morton St. u lin Q d a ASHMONT o le T V il N la g e K Commuter Rail North Quincy P

maps Cedar Grove Connection Commuter Rail Service Hyde Park e P v 93 l A P *Boylston: Accessible for Silver Line Washington Fairmount a r Wollaston tr e 1 Street only. n P tl *State: Blue line wheelchair access outbound e d u Readville C R B side only. Inbound riders transfer to outbound N y P train at Government Center. Exit State outbound A e n Quincy Center Readville P P ll to A a il T V • Water Transportation Services T M Endicott A P F1 Hingham Shipyard to M Quincy Adams Rowes Wharf, Boston F2 Quincy & Hull to Logan Airport & 95 Dedham Long Wharf, Boston Corp. Center 128 t F4 S Charlestown Navy Yard to n e Long Wharf, Boston Islington p a 93 1 C For customer service & travel information P BRAINTREE L call 617-222-3200, 1-800-392-6100, To Forge Park Route 128 TTY 617-222-5146 or visit the MBTA 3 web site at http://www.mbta.com 95 For MBTA Police call 617-222-1212 To Attleboro, To Middleborough, To Kingston/ ___ Stoughton, Providence 24 Lakeville Plymouth 46 PANORAMA 5 • 6 • 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 • 12 • 13 • 14 • 15 CHARLESTOWN (see page 46) D LEGEND D Freedom Trail & Sites Black Heritage Trail * Pedestrian Area • W City Water Taxi Stops • Charles River Basin Pedestrian Bridges R Public Restrooms

E MBTA Subway Stops E T Red Line T Orange Line T Blue Line T Green Line • • CAMBRIDGE (see page 47) F F FENWAY/KENMORE SQUARE (see page 47) • •

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L L FREEDOM TRAIL PARK STREET CHURCH. Corner of Park ter of activity for such patriots as John Hancock and Samuel OLD NORTH CHURCH. 193 Salem St., and Tremont streets, 617-523-3383. and John Adams. It was from the east balcony that the 617-523-6676. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Sunday services at 8:30 and 11 a.m. Declaration of Independence was first read in Boston. Sun services at 9 and 11 a.m. Known as and 4 and 6 p.m. Morning services are Christ Church and erected in 1723, this is traditional, evening services are con- BOSTON MASSACRE SITE. State Street in Boston’s oldest standing church. Two temporary. Built in 1809, this church front of the Old State House. At the next lanterns were hung here April 18, 1775, was described by Henry James as “the intersection below the State House, a ring signaling the Redcoats’ departure by sea most interesting mass of brick and mor- of cobblestones marks the site of the for Lexington and Concord. tar in America.” clash between a jeering Boston crowd and a British guard of nine soldiers on March COPP’S HILL BURIAL GROUND. Open daily OLD GRANARY BURYING GROUND. 5,1770. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Hull Street. Set out in 1660, Tremont Street next to Park Street Copp’s Hill was Boston’s second cemetery. Church, 617-635-7389. Open daily 9 FANEUIL HALL. Merchants Row and Many remarkable people are interred here, a.m.–5 p.m. This historic cemetery, for- Faneuil Hall Square, 617-242-5689. Open including the Mather family of ministers

merly the town granary, is the final resting Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9 p.m. and Sun noon–6 and Edmund Hartt, builder of the USS fr place of John Hancock, Paul Revere, p.m. Historical talks given every half hour Constitution. Robert Treat Paine, Samuel Adams, Peter from 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m., when hall is eedom tr Faneuil, and the victims of the Boston not in use. “The Cradle of Liberty” com- BUNKER HILL MONUMENT. Breed’s Hill, Massacre. A stone inscribed “Mary Goose” (a.k.a. Elizabeth bines a free marketplace on the first floor Charlestown, 617-242-5641. Monument

ail Goose) allegedly marks the grave of Mother Goose. with the town meeting hall upstairs, the closed until Aug 27. Lodge and museum site of abolitionist speakers and fiery open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. The site of the KING’S CHAPEL AND BURYING revolutionary debate. historic battle of June 17, 1775. GROUND. Tremont and School streets, 617-227-2155. Services: Sun at 11 PAUL REVERE HOUSE. 19 North Square, U.S.S. CONSTITUTION. Charlestown Navy a.m., Wed at 12:15 p.m. Burying Ground Hanover Street, 617-523-2338. Open daily Yard, Charlestown, 617-242-5670. Open open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Tours are usu- 9:30 a.m–5:15 p.m. Admission: $2.50; stu- Tue–Sun from 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Tours until ally Sat 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m., but may dents & seniors with I.D. $2; children 3:50 p.m. This 44-gun frigate is the oldest PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF not be led due to construction. Visitors (5–17) $1; (under 5) free. The oldest home commissioned warship in the world, chris-

OLD NORTH CHURCH: The tower from which Paul are reminded that King’s Chapel is a in Boston (built c. 1680), occupied by sil- tened ‘Old Ironsides’ during the War of ail

eedom tr Revere hung his famous lanterns stands tall in the house of worship. The chapel was established in 1687 as versmith and patriot Paul Revere from 1812 when the cannonballs of a British North End. Refer to listing, page 51. the first Anglican congregation in Boston. The second 1770 to 1800. warship literally bounced off her triple hull.

fr chapel, built in 1754, became the first Unitarian church in America after the Revolution.

The Freedom Trail begins at the Boston Common SITE OF THE FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL AND Information Kiosk, where you can obtain a guide BEN FRANKLIN’S STATUE. On School map for $2 or rent a handheld self-guided audio Street, marked by a column and commem- tour complete with sound effects and anecdotes orative plaque. On April 13, 1635, the town for $15, $12 for each additional adult and $10 for voted to establish the first public school in children. Park ranger-guided tours depart from the the country (the forerunner of the Boston Boston National Historical Park Visitors Center at Latin School). Nearby is Benjamin Franklin’s the corner of State and Devonshire streets, statue, built in 1856, the first portrait statue Mon–Fri at 11 a.m. and Sat & Sun at 11 a.m. & 2 erected in the United States. p.m. First come, first serve. Arrive 30 minutes prior to tour. Call 617-242-5642 for more information. SITE OF THE OLD CORNER BOOKSTORE. School and Washington streets. Constructed as an apothecary in 1718, the ground floor BOSTON COMMON. Set aside in 1634 as was later used as a bookstore that became a military training field and grazing pas- the center of literary Boston and the meet- ture, the Common is the oldest public park ing place of such notables as Emerson, in America. The park served as quarters Hawthorne and Thoreau. for British as well as Colonial troops, and later housed Civil War regiments. The OLD SOUTH MEETING HOUSE. 310 British Army set out for the start of the Washington St., 617-482-6439. Open daily Revolutionary War from what is now 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students Park Square. & seniors $4; children (6–18) $1; children (under 6) free. This building housed many THE STATE HOUSE. Beacon Street, top of town meetings, the most famous of which Beacon Hill facing Boston Common, 617- saw an outraged Samuel Adams give the 727-3676. Open Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–4 p.m., signal to proceed with the Boston Tea Party. except holidays. Guided tours by reservation. The famous golden dome of the State House OLD STATE HOUSE. Corner of Washington marks the government seat of the Common- and State streets, 617-720-3292. Open wealth of Massachusetts. Samuel Adams daily 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $5; laid the cornerstone, and the building stands students & seniors $4; children (6–18) $1; on land bought from John Hancock. The red brick portion was children (under 6) free. Built in 1713, this ___ designed by legendary architect Charles Bulfinch. seat of colonial government was the cen- ___ 50 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 51 SIGHTSEEING $2.75; children (2–15) $1.25; seniors $2.00. Established in JOHN F. KENNEDY NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, 83 Beals St., conditions, please call ahead. Enjoy spectacular 360-degree 1837, the Public Garden is the nation’s first public botanical Brookline, 617-566-7937. Open Wed–Sun 10 a.m.–4:30 p.m. panoramic views of Boston and beyond and learn about the garden. Its 24 acres are filled with scenic and diverse Admission: $3; children (17 and under) free. Guided tours city’s 375 years of culture and history on the new Antennae greenery, as well as sculptures, including one that com- every half-hour ‘til 3. This modest frame house is the well-pre- Audio Tour. Displays include “Dreams of Freedom,” about the memorates the popular children’s book Make Way for served 1917 birthplace and childhood home of the 35th presi- Boston immigrant experience; an exhibit overlooking Fenway Ducklings. Other fixtures include the Lagoon—home to the dent of the United States, and also the first home shared by Park dedicated to the legendary Red Sox slugger Ted Williams; famed Swan Boats from April through Labor Day—and the the president’s father and mother, Joseph P. and Rose and a theater showing “Wings Over Boston,” a spectacular world’s smallest suspension bridge. Fitzgerald Kennedy. Includes a collection of household furnish- aerial tour of the entire city. ings, photographs and significant mementos personally col- BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY, 700 Boylston St., Copley lected and arranged by the president’s mother. TRINITY CHURCH, Copley Square, 617-536-0944. Open Sun 7 Square, 617-536-5400. Mon–Thu 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Fri & Sat a.m.–7 p.m., Tue–Sat 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; tours available for $5, ’til 5 p.m. Free admission. Art & Architecture tours offered JOHN HANCOCK TOWER, 200 Clarendon St., 617-572-6000. children under 12 free. Built in 1877, this house of worship, a Mon at 2:30 p.m., Tue & Thu at 6 p.m., Fri & Sat at 11 a.m. Rising 62 stories into the sky, this I.M. Pei-designed, sliver-of- combination of Victorian, Gothic and French Romanesque The first publicly supported municipal library in the world glass skyscraper is New England’s tallest building and is con- styles, is one of the great masterpieces of American church hosts one million visitors a year, who come to view this sidered by many to be one of the world’s most beautiful sky- architecture. The building is located in Copley Square adjacent architectural masterpiece and its collection of more than scrapers. The building houses the headquarters of its name- to the I.M. Pei-designed John Hancock Tower. five million books. Film festivals, exhibits and children’s sake, insurance giant John Hancock Financial. The 60th floor programs run throughout the year. observatory was closed after September 11, 2001. TOURS AND TRAILS BUNKER HILL PAVILION, Boston National Historical Park NEW ENGLAND HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL, Congress Street Visitors Center, Charlestown, 617-242-5601. Located near Faneuil Hall. This haunting memorial features six lumi- BEACON HILL WALKING TOURS, 617-227-3957, Ext. 256. yards from the U.S.S. Constitution. Visitor center and nous glass towers etched with the six million prisoner num- Tickets: $10; reservations recommended. Guided tours high- bookstore open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Monument closed bers of those who perished in the Holocaust. Visitors can walk lighting the richly European section of Boston along the through Aug 27 for renovations. Check out “Whites of under the towers and read the dramatic stories of the victims Freedom Trail. Their Eyes,” a dramatic multimedia presentation of the and heroes of this tremendous human tragedy. Battle of Bunker Hill, one of the first major battles of the BLACK HERITAGE TRAIL, 46 Joy St., 617-742-5415. Free tours: Revolution. Or climb the nearby Bunker Hill Monument, a THE SKYWALK OBSERVATORY AT THE PRUDENTIAL 10 a.m., noon and 2 p.m. Call at least 24 hours in advance for PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF 221-foot granite obelisk. CENTER, 617-859-0648. Open daily 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m. reservations. A guided tour through the north side of Beacon Hill, BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY: Offering more than Skywalk kiosk closes at 6 p.m. Admission (including a headset including the homes of politicians and entrepreneurs; the African books, this venerable institution is home to striking CUSTOM HOUSE TOWER, 3 McKinley Square, 617-310- audio tour of points of interest): $10.50; seniors $8.50; chil- Meeting House, built in 1806; the oldest standing house built by art and architectural details. Refer to listing, right. 6300. Free historical tours offered Mon–Thu 10 a.m. and 4 dren (under 12) $7. Observatory may be closed due to weather an African-American (1797); and the home of Lewis and Harriet

p.m., Fri & Sat 4 p.m. Tours may be cancelled due to sightseeing weather conditions, call ahead. Boston’s first skyscraper, the Custom House stands high over Boston Harbor as one SIGHTS OF INTEREST of the city’s most impressive landmarks. Crowned by its dis- tinctive clock tower and restored with modern luxuries, the ADAMS NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, 1250 Hancock St., building epitomizes the preservation of Boston’s historic archi- Quincy, eight miles south of Boston, 617-770-1175. Take the “T” tecture. Today, the Marriott Corporation operates this landmark. to the Quincy Center stop on the Red Line. Visitor Center is open daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Trolley tours: depart every 30 minutes THE FIRST CHURCH OF CHRIST SCIENTIST, 175 Huntington from 9:15 a.m.–3:15 p.m. Tickets: $5; children (under 16) free. Ave., 617-450-2000. Free tours of The Mother Church This oft-overlooked historical gem offers insight into the lives of Thu–Sat, noon–4 p.m., every half hour; services: Sun at 10 U.S. presidents John Adams and son John Quincy Adams. Tour a.m. and 7 p.m., Wed at noon and 7:30 p.m. The original the birthplaces of both presidents, as well as “The Old House,” Mother Church built in 1894 is at the heart of the Christian

sightseeing which was home to five generations of the Adams family. Science Center, situated on 14 acres in the Back Bay. The Romanesque structure is made from New Hampshire granite ARNOLD ARBORETUM, 125 Arborway, Jamaica Plain, 617- with stained glass windows illustrating Biblical events. Also 524-1718. Grounds open year-round, sunrise to sunset. Free see listing for the Mary Baker Eddy Library in Museums. admission. Visitor Center open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–4 p.m., Sat 10 SEE BOSTON LIKE YOU’VE NEVER SEEN IT, AT THE SKYWALK OBSERVATORY. a.m.–4 p.m., Sun noon–4 p.m. This 265-acre tree sanctuary FOREST HILLS CEMETERY, 95 Forest Hills Ave., 617-524- VISIT OUR NEW DISPLAYS INCLUDING “DREAMS OF FREEDOM,” FEATURING THE BOSTON designed by Emerald Necklace architect Frederick Law 0128. Open daily from 8:30 a.m. till dusk. Created in 1848, this IMMIGRANT EXPERIENCE, A NEW ANTENNA AUDIO TOUR AND OUR NEW THEATER Olmsted opened in 1872. Now a National Historic Landmark, cemetery serves as the final resting place of Eugene O’Neill, the arboretum and its gardens contain more than 7,000 vari- Anne Sexton, e.e. cummings, William Lloyd Garrison and former FEATURING “WINGS OVER BOSTON,” AN AERIAL TOUR OF OUR CITY eties of trees, shrubs and flowers for your perusal. Boston Celtic Reggie Lewis. The 275 acres of twisting paths AT THE PRUDENTIAL CENTER, 800 BOYLSTON STREET, BOSTON. CALL 617-859-0648. also contain sculptural treasures, an arboretum, a “library” of 1 BOSTON ATHENAEUM, 10 /2 Beacon St., 617-227-0270. life stories and an open-air museum. Special exhibit: Dwelling: Member hours: Tue–Fri 8:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Mon ‘til 8 p.m., Memory, Architecture and Place, a sculpture installation dealing Sat 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Public tours: Tue & Thu at 3 p.m. with the idea of homes and dwellings. Reservations required. One of the oldest and most distin- guished private libraries in the United States, the Athenaeum HARRISON GRAY OTIS HOUSE, 141 Cambridge St., 617-227- was founded in 1807. For nearly half a century, it was the 3956. Open Wed–Sun 11 a.m.–4:30 p.m., tours every half unchallenged center of intellectual life in Boston, and by 1851 hour. Admission: $8; free for kids, Historic New England mem- it had become one of the five largest libraries in the country. bers and Boston residents. $24 maximum per family. Built in Join us on the 52nd floor for fine American cuisine at Top of the Hub. 1796 for Harrison Gray Otis and his wife, this grand mansion is FOR LUNCH, FOR DINNER, FOR LIVE JAZZ NIGHTLY BOSTON PUBLIC GARDEN, bordered by Arlington, Charles, a example of high-style Federal elegance. Tours offer insight 617.536.1775 Beacon and Boylston streets. Open daily dawn to dusk. Swan into the social, business and family life of the post-Revolution ___ Boat Rides: Daily (weather permitting) 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets: American elite. ___ 52 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 53 Hayden, who harbored runaway slaves. Maps are available at the NORTH END MARKET TOUR, 64 Cross St., take the “T” to STONE ZOO, 149 Pond St., Stoneham, 781-438-5100. Open Museum of Afro-American History. Haymarket, 617-523-6032. Wed & Sat 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., Fri 10 weekdays 10 a.m.–5 p.m., weekends ‘til 6 p.m. Admission: a.m. and 3 p.m. Reservations required. Custom tours for groups $7.50; seniors $6.50; children (2–12) $4.50; children (under BOSTON ART TOURS, 617-732-3920. Call for full tour sched- available. Tickets: $48. Michele Topor, an authority on Italian cui- 2) free. Highlights include Snowy Owl creek, Mexican gray ule. Tickets: $25; teens $15; children (under 12) free. Boston sine and culture, hosts award-winning culinary walking tours wolves, snow leopards, jaguars, reindeer, river otters, llamas Art Tours offers various excursions to area museums and gal- through one of the nation’s oldest Italian-American communities. and miniature donkeys, as well as educational programs at leries that highlight different historical time periods. Families the Animal Discovery Center. The Zoo is also home to the may choose from age-appropriate tours offering lively descrip- NORTH END SECRET TOURS, North Square (across from The nation’s first “Earth Park.” Special exhibit: Lord of the Wings: tions of works to help further the understanding of art. Paul Revere House), 617-720-2283. Fri & Sat 10 a.m., 1 and 4 Birds of Prey Show, an interactive look at eagles, vultures p.m. Reservations required. Tickets: $30 per person. This two- and hawks. BOSTON BIKE TOURS, 617-308-5902. Tours: Sat & Sun at 11 hour guided walking tour explores some of the hidden court- a.m. Tickets: $25 (w/o bike rental, $20). Tours make stops at yards and passageways of the North End, visits the birthplace various sites while your guide shares history and pokes fun at of Kennedy matriarch Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy, and tells tales CAMBRIDGE the city and its heritage. Tours leave from the Boston of Boston’s oldest neighborhood, like the disastrous Great Common Visitor Center at Park Street Station (bikes and Boston Molasses Flood of 1919 that devastated much of the Due to limited parking, it is best to take the Red Line equipment are provided). historic city sector. when traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall squares. The Cambridge Discovery Booth located at the Harvard BOSTON BY FOOT, 617-367-2345. Tickets: $10, children OLD TOWN TROLLEY TOURS OF BOSTON, 617-269-7150. Square “T” entrance provides additional information. (6–12) $8, unless noted. Call for tour locations. Guided 90 Departs every 25–30 minutes daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets: minute tours highlighting the rich architecture and history of $29; seniors & students $26; children (under 12) free. With 16 CAMBRIDGE COMMON/OLD BURYING GROUND. A grazing the city, led by trained volunteers. The Heart of the Freedom stops throughout the city, including the New England Aquarium, pasture and cemetery for Puritan Newtowne, as well as a Trail, every day at 10 a.m.; Victorian Back Bay, Thu at 5:30 U.S.S. Constitution Museum, the Trolley Stop Store on the cor- favorite meeting spot for public figures and a tent site for the p.m., Fri & Sun at 10 a.m.; Literary Landmark Tour, Sat at 2 ner of South Charles and Boylston streets, and most major Continental Army. Early college presidents and town residents p.m.; Beacon Hill, Mon–Fri at 5:30 p.m., Sat at 10 a.m., Sun at hotels (see your concierge), patrons can enjoy a 100-minute, were buried in “God’s Acre” across from the Common. 2 p.m.; North End, Fri & Sat at 2 p.m.; Boston Underfoot, Sun at fully narrated sightseeing tour of more than 100 points of inter- 2 p.m., tickets: $12; Boston By Little Feet, Mon & Sat at 10 est aboard the orange-and-green, all-weather trolley. CHRIST CHURCH. This 1761 Tory house of worship was uti- a.m., Sun at 2 p.m., tickets: $8. lized as a Colonial barracks in the American Revolution. FRANKLIN PARK ZOO: People are still SAMUEL ADAMS BREWERY TOUR: DRINK IN A LITTLE BOSTON DUCK TOURS, Prudential Center and Museum of buzzing over the recent births of several new HISTORY, 30 Germania St., Jamaica Plain, 617-522-9080. FIRST CHURCH UNITARIAN/UNIVERSALIST. 617–876–7772. Science. www.bostonducktours.com. Tours: seven days a critters as the zoo, including the baby gorilla Tours: Wed at 2 p.m., Thu at 2 p.m.; Fri at 2 and 5:30 p.m.; Sat Harvard College provided the pews for its students in week, 9 a.m. ’til one hour before sunset. Tickets: $26; seniors, pictured above. Refer to listing, page 55. at noon, 1 and 2 p.m.; one-hour tours include samples (ID this 1833 building erected for the then-newly founded

students & military $23; children (3–11) $17; (under 3) $5; required). Tickets: $1 donation given to a local charity. Call for Unitarian Church. sightseeing special needs $10. Group discounts available. Experience the complete hours, special events and closings. Learn about the city in an amazing vehicle that rides on land and water. The 80- art of brewing beer and taste rich malts and spicy hops on this HARVARD AND RADCLIFFE YARDS. The centers of two minute tour visits most of Boston’s famous sights. And just GHOSTS AND GRAVESTONES TOUR, 617-269-3626. Daily at tour of the original Samuel Adams brewery. institutions that have played major educational roles since when you think you’ve seen it all, your Duck splashes into the 6, 7, 8 and 9 p.m. Reservations required. Tickets: $32; children: Harvard’s founding in 1636. Charles River for a spectacular water view. $19. Step aboard the trolley of doom for a tour of the dark side SWAN BOATS, Public Garden Lagoon, 617-522-1966. Rides: of Boston. Your host, a 17th century gravedigger, tells the tales daily, 10 a.m.–4 p.m., weather permitting. Tickets: $2.75, seniors HARVARD SQUARE/OLD CAMBRIDGE. The center of BOSTON MOVIE TOURS, departs from the Shaw Memorial in of the Angel of Death, the Boston Strangler and other infamous $2, children (2–15) $1.25. One of Boston’s oldest and most treas- Cambridge activity since the 17th century, the Square is front of the State House on Beacon Street. 866-MOVIE-45. characters from Boston’s past. After completing your sojourn ured traditions, these pedal-powered boats glide around the Public home to Harvard University, historic buildings, bookstores, www.bostonmovietours.net. Tours daily at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. into the macabre, step off the trolley for a walk through two of Garden and under the smallest suspension bridge in the world. cafes, restaurants and shops. Tickets: $20; seniors and students $16; children (6–12) $10. the oldest burying grounds in the city. Reservations strongly encouraged. Experience the city of LONGFELLOW NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, 105 Brattle St., Boston the way Tinseltown has through such films as A Civil HARPOON BREWERY TOUR, 306 Northern Ave., 888-HARPOON WILDLIFE Cambridge, 617-876-4491. Wed–Sun 10 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

sightseeing Action, Good Will Hunting, Mystic River and others. This 90- ext. 522. Tours: Tue–Thu at 4 p.m., Fri at 2 and 4 p.m. and Sat Park ranger-guided tours: 10:30 and 11:30 a.m., 1, 2, 3 and minute walking tour takes movie buffs to 30 spots where some at noon, 2 and 4 p.m. Free admission, proper ID required for FRANKLIN PARK ZOO, One Franklin Park Road, Franklin 4 p.m. Admission: $3, children (under 16) free. This 1759 of Hollywood’s biggest stars have come to film. Tour guides samples. This waterfront institution was the first brewery in 25 Park, 617-541-LION. Open weekdays 10 a.m.–5 p.m., week- Georgian mansion was home to Henry Wadsworth Longfellow also offer up behind-the-scenes stories and Hollywood gossip. years granted a permit to brew and package beer commercially ends ‘til 6 p.m. Admission: $9.50; seniors $8; children (2–12) from 1837 to 1882 and a central gathering place for writers when it opened in 1987. Visitors gather at the Tasting Room, $5.50; children (under 2) free. Home to more than 210 and artists in the 19th century. It also served as George FENWAY PARK TOURS, 4 Yawkey Way, 617-226-6666. Tours overlooking the brewery, for 30- to 45-minute tours of the plant. species, many of them endangered. Roam the Australian Washington’s headquarters during the siege of Boston in daily from 9 a.m.–4 p.m. or three hours before game time. Outback Trail with wallabies and kangaroos; explore the 1775–76. Original furnishings, books and art from around the Tickets: $12, seniors $11, children and military personnel $10. HISTORIC PUB CRAWL, BosTix Booth, Faneuil Hall, 617-357- Tropical Forest and see the gorillas; marvel at the lions at world are on display. Special exhibit: Fashion and Finery of Tours originate at the Souvenir Store located on Yawkey Way 8300. July 4 & 11 at 5:30 p.m. Reservations required. Private Kalahari Kingdom; and visit zebras, ostriches, ibex and wilde- the Longfellow Family. across from Service Gate D, rain or shine. Have you dreamt of tours for groups are available on most days. Tickets: $39. The beests at Serengeti Crossing. going behind-the-scenes of the legendary home of the Boston Freedom Trail Foundation’s 18th-century costumed guide takes MOUNT AUBURN CEMETERY, 580 Mount Auburn St., Red Sox? This tour offers an inside look at America’s oldest you on a tour of Boston’s historic pubs where treasonous NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM, Central Wharf, 617-973-5200. Cambridge, 617-547-7105. Open daily from 8 a.m.–7 p.m. active Major League ballpark, including a visit to the top of the events were hatched 250 years ago. Enjoy plenty of beer and Open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Sat & Sun 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Founded in 1831 by the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, famed “Green Monster.” light fare along the way. Admission: $17.95; children (3–11) $9.95; children (under 3) Mount Auburn was the first landscaped cemetery in the free. Refer to Currently section under Film for IMAX theater country. Many prominent Americans are buried here, includ- THE FREEDOM TRAIL FOUNDATION’S FREEDOM TRAIL THE LITERARY TRAIL, departs from the Omni Parker House, listings. Combination ticket prices available. Dedicated to ing Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Isabella Stewart Gardner PLAYERS, departs from the Visitor Center on Boston Common, 60 School St., 617-350-0358. Call for full tour schedule. advancing knowledge of the world of water, this outstanding and Winslow Homer. The cemetery is also an arboretum, 617-357-8300. Tours daily at 11 a.m., noon and 1 p.m. Tickets: Tickets: $30; children (under 12) $26. Group tours also avail- aquatic zoo features a 187,000-gallon Giant Ocean Tank con- sculpture garden and wildlife sanctuary. $12; seniors $10; children (12 and under) $6. Explore the able. Tickets include entrance to all museums on the trail. This taining a Caribbean coral reef with sharks, sea turtles, moray Freedom Trail with costumed actors portraying famous patriots 20-mile tour includes stops at the Boston Athenaeum; the Omni eels and other aquatic life. Be sure to check out the popular TORY ROW (BRATTLE STREET). One of the nation’s most such as James Otis, Abigail Adams and William Dawes in this Parker House; Cambridge’s Longfellow House; the Concord penguin habitat. The adjacent Simons 3D IMAX Theater is the beautiful residential streets, Tory Row is the site of Loyalist 90-minute tour. Stops include the Park Street Church, the Museum, which houses Ralph Waldo Emerson’s study; and first theater of its kind in the Boston area. Special exhibits: mansions and their elegant neighbors from every period of ___ Boston Massacre Site, the Old State House and Faneuil Hall. famed Walden Pond. Amazing Jellies; Stellwagen Bank. American architecture. ___ 54 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 55 EXCURSIONS GONDOLA DI VENEZIA TOURS, Charles River Esplanade, more than 1600 types of plants, including rare and endangered century, they landed at Plymouth Rock. They built their settlement 866-2-VENICE. Tours: Wed–Sun 2–11 p.m. Tickets: specimens. The garden offers beauty and serenity amidst a daz- three miles south of the rock and named it Plimoth Plantation. Traditional Tours $69 for two; Sunset Tours (without accor- zling array of colors. Special exhibit: beginning July 15—Rock Today, visitors can tour the Plantation and see how the Pilgrims dion player) $99 for two, (with accordion player) $139 for On! Celebrating Stone in the Garden, featuring 37 sculptures by went about their daily lives, hunting, gathering and making crafts. two; Bellisimo Tours $219 for two; all tours $15 each addi- New England visual artists. tional person. Tours depart from beneath the Arthur Fiedler YANKEE CANDLE FACTORY, 5 North St., South Deerfield, 877- Footbridge on the Esplanade. With authentic Venetian gon- MINUTE MAN NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, Concord and 636-7707. Factory visitor’s center is open 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m. Call dolas and an Old World approach to romance, these pictur- Lexington, 978-369-6993. Park grounds open sunrise to sunset, for additional information. The Yankee Candle Factory is one part esque rides along the Esplanade Lagoon feature compli- North Bridge Visitor Center is at 174 Liberty St., Concord, open of a larger complex devoted to the company. It also includes a mentary snacks. 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Created in 1959 to preserve the sites associated museum, a candle store and Bavarian Christmas Village. Visitors with the opening battles of the American Revolution, Minute Man are able to dip their own creations at this one-of-a-kind must- LIBERTY FLEET OF TALL SHIPS, departs daily from Long Park consists of over 900 acres of land along original segments see for fans of the popular scented candles. Wharf, 617-742-0333. Daily sails at noon, 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. of the Battles of Lexington and Concord, including Lexington Tickets: $30, children $18. Come aboard to relive the days Green and Concord’s North Bridge. The park also preserves The of Boston Tall Ships. Take the wheel, set the sails or just sit Wayside, the 19th-century home of literary greats Nathaniel WHALE WATCHES back and enjoy the sights and beauty of Boston Harbor and Hawthorne, Louisa May Alcott and Margaret Sidney. her islands. Full cash bar available. BOSTON HARBOR CRUISES, One Long Wharf, 617-222-4321. OLD STURBRIDGE VILLAGE, 1 Old Sturbridge Village Rd., 508- Mon–Fri at noon, Sat & Sun at 10:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 ODYSSEY CRUISES, departs daily from Rowes Wharf, 888- 347-3362. Tue–Sat 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets: $20, seniors $18, p.m. Tickets: $31, seniors $28, children $25. Cruise on high speed 741-0281. Brunch: Sat & Sun daily noon–2 p.m. Tickets: children $6 (under 3 free). Take a trip back in time at this recre- catamarans to Stellwagen Bank, the East Coast’s most famous $42–48. Lunch: Mon–Fri noon–2 p.m. Tickets: $37. Dinner: ation of an early 19th-century New England village where cos- destination for whale watching. Catch sight of humpback, finback Mon–Thu 7–10 p.m., Fri & Sat 8–11 p.m., Sun 6–9 p.m. tumed educators show visitors what life in the early days of and minke whales from the deck or from the comfort of a full Tickets: $78–92. Boarding begins one hour prior to depar- America was really like. Visit a tin shop, a cider mill and a black- modernized cabin boasting snack and beverage services. The tour ture. Prices include meal. Midday and moonlight cruises also smith, while touring restorations of period New England homes is three hours, and free tickets on a future cruise are guaranteed if available. Cruise historic Boston Harbor while enjoying and marveling at authentic remnants from a long-gone age. you don’t spot one of these magnificent creatures. lunch, brunch or dinner aboard this elegant cruise ship. PHOTO BY T HOMAS N EILL Three lavish decks offer a myriad of entertainment choices, PLIMOTH PLANTATION, 137 Warren Ave., 978-369-6993. Henry MASSACHUSETTS BAY LINE WHALE WATCHES, Departing OLD STURBRIDGE VILLAGE: Get a glimpse of from jazz to contemporary music, and every on-deck stroll Hornblower II Visitor Center, open 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Nye Barn, from Rowes Wharf behind The Boston Harbor Hotel, 617-542- life in a 19th century New England village at this reveals the glorious Boston skyline. Hobbamock's (Wampanoag) Homesite, 1627 Pilgrim Village, 4321. Sat & Sun at 10:30 a.m. Tickets: $32.95, children $25.95. living museum in Central Massachusetts. Refer to Crafts Center, 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets: $24, seniors $21, chil- Get out on the open water in search of the sea’s most majestic listing, page 57. dren $14. When the Pilgrims landed in America during the 17th creatures on this four-hour tour of Stellwagen Bank National

SIGHTS OF INTEREST e

BASKETBALL HALL OF FAME, 1000 West Columbus Ave. xcur AMUSEMENT PARKS Springfield, 413-781-6500. Open 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets: $16.99; seniors $13.99; youths (5–15) $11.99; (under 5) free. In 5W!TS, 186 Brookline Ave., 617-375-WITS. Wed & Thu 11 a.m.– 1891, James Naismith developed the game of basketball and its

sions 11 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til midnight, Sun ‘til 8 p.m. Tickets: $14–20. original 13 rules in Springfield, Mass. Now Springfield is home Combining the appeals of theme parks, museums and haunted to the Hall of Fame, an edifice that pays homage to the greatest sions houses, 5W!ts provides visitors with action-packed interactive men to play and coach the game, like Bill Russell, Magic game-play and puzzle-solving activities. Current show: Tomb, which Johnson, Michael Jordan and Duke coach Mike Krzyzewski. The allows players to journey to the center of a buried pharaoh’s final Hall of Fame also includes interactive basketball fun for visitors

xcur resting place, facing challenges and obstacles along the way. and numerous exhibits. e SIX FLAGS NEW ENGLAND, 1623 Main St. (Rte. 159 South), DR. SEUSS NATIONAL MEMORIAL SCULPTURE GARDEN, 220 Agawam, 413-786-9300. Open Daily; call for hours of operation. State St., Springfield, 413-263-6800. Sculpture Garden is open Tickets: $49.99, seniors $26.99, kids $29.99; after 4 p.m., daily from 9 a.m.–8 p.m. This fitting artistic tribute—as well as $24.99. Part of one of the nation’s top amusement park chains, a museum devoted to Theodore Seuss Geisel’s literary accom- Six Flags New England is the region’s largest option for thrills plishments and favorite characters like the Lorax, Yertle the and chills, featuring humongous roller coasters, water rides and Turtle, the Sneeches and Horton the Elephant—was created by more—including the Superman: Ride of Steel and the Catapult. Geisel’s step-daughter, Lark Grey Diamond-Cates. Besides the sculpture of Geisel sitting at a drawing board with the Cat in the Hat as his muse, pieces include the Yertle the Turtle Tower, the CRUISES Grinch with his dog Max and Thidwick the Big-Hearted Moose.

BAY STATE CRUISE COMPANY, 200 Seaport Blvd. at the World ELM BANK RESERVATION, Wellesley, 617-698-1802. Trade Center, 877-PT-FERRY. Visit www.provincetownfast Reservation is open dawn to dusk year round, gates open at 8 ferry.com or call for ticket prices, reservations and departure a.m. Bordered by the Charles River on three sides, the Elm Bank times. Enjoy fast or traditional ferry service daily from Boston to Reservation is 182 acres of woodlands, fields and old estate Provincetown aboard the new and sleek Provincetown III. property. Deer and other wildlife live along the river banks of the reservation, which also contains areas for hiking, playing soccer, CHARLES RIVER BOAT TOURS, depart from CambridgeSide canoeing, kayaking, cross-country skiing and picnicking. Galleria and The World Trade Center, 617-621-3001. Call for full schedule and ticket prices. Enjoy daily 60-minute sightseeing GARDEN IN THE WOODS, 180 Hemenway Rd., Framingham, tours of Boston and Cambridge along the Charles River, or ven- 508-877-6553. Open from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Tickets: $7, ture out into Boston Harbor for a view of the city. Private char- seniors/students $5, youth (6-18) $3. Considered New England’s ___ ters also available. premier wildflower garden, the Garden in the Woods contains ___ 56 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 57 SHOPPING Marine Sanctuary. On board, professional marine biologists will ance of ritzy indulgence and traditional old New England whal- ART & ANTIQUES be on-hand to share their knowledge of whales and other ing and merchant culture. marine wildlife. PUCKER GALLERY, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. NORTH SHORE. Just north of Boston, the North Shore encom- Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sun 1–5 p.m. Founded in NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM, Central Wharf, 617-973-5206. 10 passes Cape Ann, Gloucester, Peabody, Salem, Swampscott, 1967 as a showcase for the talents of Israeli artists, the a.m. Tickets: $29, seniors $26, children $20. Discover the histo- Marblehead, Newburyport and some of Massachusetts’ other gallery has displayed and sold a wide range of art by ry of Stellwagen Bank aboard the Aquarium’s whale watch ves- well-kept secrets. The area offers sandy beaches, deep sea international artists, including works by Chagall, Picasso sel, the 111-foot catamaran Voyager III. Search for a variety of fishing trips, clambakes, historic houses and art festivals. Just and Hundertwasser. whales, including humpback, finback and minke. Interactive an hour away from the city of Boston, the North Shore is a exhibits include microscope stations, electronic navigation, com- relaxing region where visitors can sample Massachusetts’ rich puter whale programs, meteorological instruments and movies. maritime heritage. ARTS & CRAFTS

PROVINCETOWN. Located on the tip of Cape Cod, Provincetown A KNIT AND NEEDLEPOINT STORE BY MARY JO COLE, DESTINATIONS marches to its own beat. This New England fishing village and 11 Newbury St., 617-536-9338. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–5 p.m., prominent art colony is home to a thriving gay community, and Sun by chance. The fine arts of handprinted needlepoint THE BERKSHIRES. These mountains located roughly three is also where playwright Eugene O’Neil penned some of his best and gorgeous knitting yarns are showcased here. hours west of Boston are Massachusetts’ answer to New York’s work and Thoreau completed his walk around the Cape. Instruction is available from the knowledgeable staff and Catskills. Part of the Appalachian Trail, the Berkshires are con- Provincetown boasts miles of beaches, a charming and eclectic lessons are free when the project is purchased here. Visit sidered a top cultural resort location, home to numerous antique shopping district, trails for hiking and biking and whale watches www.needlepoint-boston.com. shops, art galleries, spas, spots for boating, scenic biking and for those looking to escape the busy city. hiking, as well as Tanglewood, the Boston Symphony Orchestra’s THE SOCIETY OF ARTS AND CRAFTS, 175 Newbury St., summer home and a venue for jazz and popular concerts. SALEM. This North Shore town will always be known for the 617-266-1810. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 Salem Witch Trials of 1692, but Salem also boasts a bustling p.m. The oldest nonprofit craft organization in the country, CAPE COD AND THE ISLANDS. Henry David Thoreau said wharf with many bars and restaurants, and is regarded today as established in 1897. The Society specializes in contempo- “(Cape Cod is)…a vast morgue, where famished dogs may an up-and-coming enclave for the young and trendy. Fans of the rary American crafts, jewelry, furniture, glass and ceram- range in packs—the most uninviting landscape on earth.” spooky stuff can visit the New England Pirate Museum to see ics ranging from cutting edge to traditional, and from Apparently, Thoreau didn’t know everything, because today Cape what life was like when Blackbeard roamed the high seas, or functional to sculptural. PHOTO BY C HRISTINE C ELLI Cod is one of the nation’s most beloved tourist destinations. The tiptoe through The Salem Witch Museum or Witch Dungeon A KNIT AND NEEDLEPOINT STORE BY MARY Cape has 559.6 miles of coastline for swimming, kayaking, sail- Museum. On Halloween, the city transforms into one giant party J0 COLE: Get all your knitting and needlepoint sup-

ing and snorkling. There’s also the uber-wealthy islands of for ghosts and ghouls, but 365 days a year, Salem is a charming BOOKS plies or buy pre-made, hand-sewn art at this unique shopping Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket which provide the perfect bal- place to explore and enjoy. store on Newbury Street. Refer to listing, left. BARNES & NOBLE, 800 Boylston St. (Prudential Center), 617-247-6959. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–9 p.m. One of America’s largest booksellers boasts all the bestsellers, plus an extensive selection of back titles, audio- gant men’s clothing, this Italian design house has focused books, magazines, CDs and more. on quality since its founding in 1910. Today, Zegna boasts the finest in menswear and is known for a vast, first-rate

sions BORDERS, 10–24 School St., 617-557-7188; CambridgeSide necktie selection. Galleria, Cambridge, 617-679-0887. School Street: Mon–Fri 7 a.m.–9 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–8 p.m. JASMINE SOLA, 344 Newbury St., 617-867-4636; 800 Galleria: Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Boylston, Prudential Center, 617-578-0550; 199 Boylston St., This major retailer provides readers with seemingly limitless Chestnut Hill, 617-332-1212; 37-39 Brattle St., Harvard

xcur options regarding books and periodicals, as well as an exten- Square, 617-354-6043. Newbury Street: Mon–Thu 10 a.m.–

e sive music section. 8 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 9 p.m., Sun noon–7 p.m.; call for hours of other locations. This popular boutique carries and array of hip clothing from trendy designers like Diesel, Miss Sixty, CLOTHING Juicy Couture, Seven Jeans and Blue Cult.

ANTHROPOLOGIE, 799 Boylston St., 617-262-0545; 300 KARMALOOP, 160 Newbury St., 617-369-0100. Mon–Wed Boylston St., Chestnut Hill, 617-559-9995. Boylston: 10 a.m.–7 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m.; Chestnut Hill: Street style pairs with urban chic to create this trendy Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. With stores Newbury boutique. Karmaloop features fashions by Paul in more than 20 states and around the world, Anthropologie Frank, Puma, Triple 5 Soul and Soul Rebel as well as maga- specializes in inspiring, upscale clothing, accessories and zines and toys. The boutique also works to spread the word home decor with a vintage and global flair. about street art and culture.

CHANEL BOUTIQUE, 5 Newbury St., on the ground floor of LOUIS BOSTON, 234 Berkeley St., 617-262-6100. Mon 11 the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 617-859-0055. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– a.m.–6 p.m., Tue & Wed 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 7 p.m. 6 p.m. Modeled after the famed Chanel Boutique in Paris, Housed in a historic former Back Bay museum building, this the Boston outpost of this storied franchise offers a range of Boston institution maintains its cutting-edge allure by offer- Chanel products, including a line of clothing designed by ing upscale men’s fashions by up-and-coming designers, Karl Lagerfeld, as well as shoes, accessories, handbags and as well as women’s fashions, bed and bath items, and fragrances. home accessories.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, 39 Newbury St., 617-424-9300. PATAGONIA, 346 Newbury St., 617-424-1776. Mon–Thu 10 Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. A small, family- a.m.–7 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 8 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. This out- ___ run textile business that evolved into a world leader in ele- door apparel store sells a variety of clothing for all condi- ___ 58 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 59 Timeless Teas & L’Aroma Cafe tions. The Newbury Street store also regularly invites out- retailer features distinctive, high-quality items for the home— 85 Newbury Street doorsmen to talk about their latest trips and experiences. from home furnishings and lighting to kitchen accessories and Timeless Teas on the 2nd floor offers more garden supplies. Each product is imbued with the store’s classic than a hundred varieties of tea from all design, affordable pricing and whimsical product information. DEPARTMENT STORES over the world: • Green Tea from China and Japan FILENE’S BASEMENT, 426 Washington St., 617-542-2011. GIFTS & STATIONERY • Black and our most popular Mon–Fri 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat 9 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 White Tea from Sri Lanka p.m. For decades, the Basement has provided shoppers with BLACK INK, 101 Charles St., 617-723-3883; 5 Brattle St., • Yerba Mate from South America huge deals, thanks to its automatic markdown system which Cambridge, 617-497-1221. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–7 p.m., Sun • Large assortment of exotic flavored guarantees greater discounts the longer an item remains on noon–6 p.m. Trendy knick-knacks, from silk change purses teas such as mango, rose, blueberry, the selling floor. A “must-visit” for bargain hunters. to sensual candles to sushi-eating accessories, and nostalgic pineapple and more! memorabilia, such as tin lunch boxes, can be found at this L’Aroma Cafe on the 1st floor offers deli- H & M, 350 Washington St., 617-482-7081; 100 Newbury quirky, fun gift shop. cious Italian coffee and assorted teas. Try St., 617-859-3192. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.– our tasty soups and sandwiches as well as 7 p.m. This youthful, cutting-edge department store opened DODD HOUSE GIFT SHOPPE, 176A Salem St., 617-523- our mouth-watering European pastries its Boston shop in 2001. Its mission of “fashion and quality at 8556. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Located across from the and desserts. Spacious indoor seating area the best price” translates to inexpensive, trendy clothes for historic Old North Church on the Freedom Trail, this store is for breakfast, lunch or enjoy our desserts. men and women, as H & M boasts the freshest, most up-to- chockfull of Boston- and North End-themed t-shirts, hats, Outside seating April 1st~October 31st. date fashion trends in color, material and style. mugs and other gift items to meet all your souvenir needs.

MACY’S, 450 Washington St., 617-357-3195. Mon–Sat 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This famous New York-based GOURMET FOOD & BEVERAGE department giant features floor after floor of the latest culinary tools, bed and bath items, incredible gifts and hot fashions. CARDULLO’S GOURMET SHOPPE, 6 Brattle St., Harvard Choose from your favorite designers—Polo, Liz Claiborne, Square, Cambridge, 617-491-8888. Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–8 p.m., Jones New York and DKNY—or Macy’s exclusive labels. BUILD-A-BEAR WORKSHOP: The do-it- Sat ’til 9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. www.cardullos.com. yourself toy store offers official stuffed animals Since opening in 1950, Cardullo’s has offered the best gour- MARSHALLS, 500 Boylston St., 617-262-6066. Mon–Sat 9 of Red Sox mascot Wally the Green Monster met products the world has to offer, including a deli featuring www.laromacafe.com www.timelessteas.com L’Aroma Timeless Teas

a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; 350 Washington St., at its new shop at Faneuil Hall Marketplace. a wide variety of imported meats and specialty wines, choco- shopping (617)412.4001 (617)236.5772 Downtown Crossing, 617-338-6205. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–7:30 Refer to listing, page 63. lates, teas and other unique items that make Cardullo’s a p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Its mantra “Brand name clothing must-see stop in Harvard Square. for less” has made this discount retailer a bargain-hunter’s dream come true. From Ralph Lauren to Calvin Klein, TIMELESS TEAS, 85 Newbury St., 2nd floor, 617-236-5772. Marshalls features designer clothing for men, women COPLEY SQUARE FARMERS’ MARKET, Copley Square, along Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. This Back Bay and children. St. James Avenue (in front of Trinity Church), 781-893-8222. tea shop offers more than a hundred varieties of tea from COWBOY BOOTS Tue & Fri 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Vendors from farms across the around the world, including green, black, white and Yerba MEN N WOMEN N CHILDREN T.J. MAXX, 350 Washington St., 617-695-2424. Mon–Sat 9 state of Massachusetts sell homegrown fruits, vegetables, Mate teas, as well as gift baskets, biscuits, gourmet jams Boots N Lucchese N Justin N Nocona N N N a.m.–7:30 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This discount retailer breads, flowers and more from their farms. and tea accessories. Tony Lama Dan Post Frye Liberty STETSON HATS shopping offers brand name and designer fashions for men, women Shirts N Belts N Buckles N Bolo Ties and kids, as well as accessories, fine jewelry and items HAYMARKET, near Quincy Market/Faneuil Hall. Open Fri and HELEN’S LEATHER for the home. Prices are slashed 20 to 60% off most depart- Sat from dawn to dusk. A local institution, this open-air market JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES 110 Charles St., Boston, MA ment store rates. T.J. Maxx offers current trends of the harkens back to the old days when Bostonians bought their 617.742.2077 highest quality. fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood from roadside stalls. Those ALPHA OMEGA, 1380 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617-864- used to the modern supermarket experience may be shocked 1227. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m., Sun noon–6 by the chaotic atmosphere, but the bargains are hard to beat. p.m. Also: The Shops at Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., EYEGLASS SALES & REPAIR 617-494-9030. Devoted to the art of timekeeping, Alpha Omega is an authorized agent for more than 20 prestigious VISION HOUSE, 7 JFK St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617- FURNITURE & HOME GOODS watch brands such as Akteo, Breitling, Movado, Omega, 661-3676. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun 1–5 p.m. Known Seiko, TAG Heuer and Raymond Weil. for its stylish selection and superior service, Vision House has ADESSO, 200 Boylston St., 617-451-2212. Mon–Sat 10 been a fixture in Harvard Square for more than 30 years. Its a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. One of America’s leading CARTIER, 40 Newbury St., 617-262-3300. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 vast selection of eyewear includes such designers as Gucci, resources for beautiful furniture, lighting and accessories. p.m. If diamonds are forever, the House of Cartier is timeless. Dolce & Gabbana, Vera Wang, Burberry, Oliver Peoples, Adesso imports a vast range of Europe’s finest designer With more than 150 years of experience, Cartier is a symbol of Oakley and Maui Jim. One-hour service is available, as well products—such as Ligne Roset, renowned for its beds, sofas prestige, glamour, and quality. The jeweler offers a dazzling dis- as an on-site optometrist for eye exams and contact lens fit- and comfortable seating, and Alessi, known for stainless- play of diamonds, jewelry and accessories, including time- tings. Walk-in appointments are welcome. steel teakettles and serving pieces. pieces, silver, crystal, designer pens and leather accessories.

CRATE & BARREL, 777 Boylston St., 617-262-8700. Mon– JOHN LEWIS, INC., 97 Newbury St., 617-266-6665. Tue–Sat FARMERS’ MARKETS Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Also: Faneuil Hall 11 a.m.–6 p.m. John Lewis has been creating jewelry of Marketplace, 617-742-6025; 48 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617- imaginative design in Boston for more than 30 years. Using BOSTON PUBLIC MARKET, on Old Northern Avenue Bridge. 876-6300. Call for other location hours. This fun yet sophisticated only solid precious metals and natural stones, Lewis’s aim is Thu 11:30 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat 9 a.m.–1 p.m. You can easily home fashions store features everything from kitchenware and “to make jewelry at a reasonable price, of excellent work- assemble an entire meal from the assortment of food prod- furniture to flatware, glassware and bath and body accessories. manship and uncommon beauty.” ucts on sale at this open-air market, located near South Station. The selection ranges from organic fruits and vegeta- RESTORATION HARDWARE, 711 Boylston St., 617-578-0088. LUX BOND & GREEN, 416 Boylston St., 617-266-4747. ___ bles to cheeses, desserts and fresh breads. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This hardware Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m. Since 1898, Lux Bond ___ 60 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 61 & Green has provided its customers with diamonds, gold jewel- struction process, features shoes made of top-quality leather Washington St., Wellesley, 781-237-0771; 134 Washington ry, watches and giftware from around the world. The store offers and all-natural materials. St., Norwell, 781-871-2979. Mon–Fri 10:30 a.m.–7 p.m., (’til a corporate gift division, bridal and gift registry, a full-service 7:30 in Boston), Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. For repair department, gift certificates and elegant gift wrapping. HELEN’S LEATHER, 110 Charles St., 617-742-2077. Mon– more than 29 years, Marathon Sports has provided experi- Wed, Fri & Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu noon–8 p.m., Sun noon– ence and knowledge in footwear solutions for walkers, run- SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW, 440 Boylston St., 617-267-9100. 6 p.m. For more than 35 years, Helen’s Leather has supplied ners and those in search of an active lifestyle with the widest Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. New Englanders with quality Western boots by makers like selection of apparel, footwear and accessories. Serving Bostonians since 1796, this Boston institution boasts Lucchese, Tony Lama, Justin, Nocona and Frye. In addition, of being the oldest continuously operating luxury business in Helen’s sells Western belts, buckles, shirts and Stetson hats, the U.S. Its new location is filled with glittering diamonds, as well as leather jackets and bags. SPORTS MEMORABILIA fine jewelry and watches. The galleries also offer silver, china, porcelain, stationery, antiques and more. JOHN FLUEVOG, 302 Newbury St., 617-266-1079. Mon–Sat FENWAY SPORTSZONE, 306 Newbury St., 617-437-1010. noon–8 p.m., Sun 1–6 p.m. This funky footwear retailer fea- Open daily 11 a.m.–7 p.m., with extended hours on game SMALL PLEASURES, 142 Newbury St., 617-267-7371; 92 tures shoes created by the maverick designer, ranging from days. Boasting “The most balls in Boston,” Fenway Sportszone State St., 617-722-9932. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–6 p.m. mind-bending platforms to the classic black boot and his tried- is Boston’s largest memorabilia shop, featuring the city’s Specializing in antique jewelry and vintage watches, this and-true “Angels.” The Newbury Street locale is the only place biggest selection of autographed items. They also have all your unique store features Art Nouveau and Art Deco engagement in Boston to find a wide range of his cutting-edge styles. fan gear and souvenir needs as well as a huge selection of rings from the 1920s, as well as custom design and repair apparel from Majestic, Moonlight Graham, Homegirls, Sully’s services, all in an intimate Art Deco setting. T’s, and more. SEE LOCATOR #4 ON CENTER MAP. SPORTING GOODS

MALLS/SHOPPING CENTERS BILL RODGERS RUNNING CENTER, 353 North Market Bldg., TOYS Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 617-723-5612. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9 CAMBRIDGESIDE GALLERIA, 100 CambridgeSide Place, p.m., Sun noon–6 p.m. Owned by the four-time Boston BUILD-A-BEAR WORKSHOP, Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 6 North Cambridge, 617-621-8666. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sun Marathon winner, the Bill Rodgers Running Center boasts the Market St., 617-227-2478. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This three-level mall features department most experienced running staff in Boston. Since 1977, they have noon–6 p.m. Build-A-Bear Workshop offers guests a unique stores such as Filene’s, Sears and Best Buy, as well as more been helping fellow runners to find the best shoes for them. and exciting entertainment retail experience based on the than 100 other stores and specialty shops including the HELEN’S LEATHER: Designer Western-style premise that nearly everyone, regardless of age, has a special largest Gap in Boston, J. Crew, Old Navy, Borders, Victoria’s boots in a variety of exotic animals skins are a MARATHON SPORTS, 671 Boylston St., 617-267-4774; fondness for stuffed animals. When guests visit a Build-A-Bear

Secret and more. specialty at this store on Charles Street in the 1638 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-735-9373; 1654 Workshop store, they enter a lighthearted teddy-bear themed shopping Beacon Hill area. Refer to listing, page 63. Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-354-4161; 255 environment consisting of fun bear-making stations. COPLEY PLACE, Copley Square, 617-369-5000. The magnifi- cent Copley Place features more than 100 upscale stores, including Neiman Marcus, Tiffany & Co., Gucci and Williams- Sonoma. A variety of restaurants, including Legal Sea Foods, MUSIC/VIDEO offer shoppers numerous dining options. To receive a free Ultimate Shopping Excursions card, stop by one of the cus- NEWBURY COMICS, 332 Newbury St., 617-236-4930. Mon–Thu tomer service kiosks. 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Also: Government Center, 1 Washington Mall, 617-248-9992; 36 JFK

shopping THE CORNER MALL, corner of Winter and Washington streets. St. (Garage Mall), Cambridge, 617-491-0337; 211 Alewife Brook Open daily. One-stop shopping in Downtown Crossing. You’ll Parkway, Cambridge, 617-491-7711. You’ll have a “wicked good find the latest styles at shops like Discovery Imports, Bath & time” at this upstart local chain, which boasts the cheapest CD Body Works and Aldo Shoes. In addition, the Corner Mall fea- prices in town, including import, indie and major label releases, tures an international food court to please every palate, as well as T-shirts, comics, and other pop culture kitsch items. including Cafe La Brioche, Sakkio Japan and India Express. TOWER RECORDS, 95 Mt. Auburn St., Harvard Square, THE HERITAGE ON THE GARDEN, 300 Boylston St., 617-426- Cambridge, 617-876-3377. Sun–Thu 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & 9500. Call for individual store hours. This residential/office/ Sat ’til midnight. This music superstore features everything retail complex located alongside the Public Garden features a from CDs, tapes and records to videos, books and periodi- handful of upscale retailers, including St. John Boutique, Sonia cals. Its music selection runs the gamut from classical to Rykiel, Escada, Hermes, Candela Spa and Anne Fontaine. country to current pop, rock and soul sounds.

MARKETPLACE CENTER, located between Faneuil Hall and VIRGIN MEGASTORE, 360 Newbury St., 617-896-0950. Mon the Waterfront. Twenty-four distinctive shops surround an 10 a.m.–12:30 a.m., Tue–Thu ’til 11 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til midnight, open court known as the Exedra, where you will always Sun 11 a.m–11 p.m. The British music retailer chose Boston for find a wide range of unusual pushcarts and entertainment its 22nd North American location. Three levels and more than events unique to this wonderful area. Within walking distance 40,000 square feet of space house thousands of books, CDs, are literally hundreds of other shops, restaurants, pubs and videos and DVDs, as well as interactive listening kiosks. nightspots.

THE SHOPS AT PRUDENTIAL CENTER, 800 Boylston St., SHOES 800-SHOP-PRU. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. The Shops at Prudential Center features over 75 shops ALLEN-EDMONDS, 36 Newbury St., 617-247-3363. Mon–Fri and restaurants including The Cheesecake Factory, Saks Fifth 9:30 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat ’til 6 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. Step out Avenue, Ann Taylor, J. Jill and Alpha Omega. It is also the in luxurious style with Allen-Edmonds’ collections of wing launch spot for the city’s renowned tourist resource, the tips, capped toes and slip-on kilties and tassles. This world- ___ Boston Duck Tours. class men’s footwear retailer, famous for its 212-step con- ___ 62 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 63

RESTAURANTS Theatre District Dining strong New England flair, the menu at Apropos offers Theatre District Dining hearty, satisfying dishes ranging from pan-roasted Chilean sea bass to grilled New York sirloin and herbed roasted chicken. The menu, created by executive chef Joseph Nartowicz, exudes the flavors of Boston. B, L, D, SB. $$$

AUJOURD’HUI, Four Seasons Hotel Boston, 200 Boylston St., 617-351-2037. An elegant eatery with the Public Garden as a backdrop, and a perennial recipient of the AAA Five Diamond Award. Enjoy exquisite modern French cui- sine, accompanied by a selection from an 1,800-bottle wine library. Reservations recommended. D Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30 p.m., Sun 6–10 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–2 p.m. $$$$ Steak at the Castle. AZURE, The Lenox Hotel, 61 Exeter St., 617-933-4800. A rare experience. Azure's menu and concept are designed to be as clear and (Medium rare’s great, too.) understated as the color palette itself. Nationally recognized executive chef Robert Fathman, known for his innovation and playful risk-taking in the kitchen, creates contemporary American cuisine with a sophisticated edge and an empha- sis on fresh seafood. B, D. $$$ The Castle at Columbus & Arlington 617-423-1112 BARLOLA, 160 Commonwealth Ave., 617-266-1122. This 123 Spanish newcomer ensures authenticity with not only prime ingredients imported directly from Spain, but also a culinary staff of either Spanish origin or Spanish/Latin descent. The PHOTO BY S ARAH B RICKLEY tapas bar also offers an array of wines and specialty drinks L’AROMA CAFE: Enjoy a refreshing beverage and to accompany the tapas frias and calientes. D, Sat & SB, C. $ a light meal at this Newbury Street establishment, which features a lovely outdoor patio. Refer to BONFIRE STEAKHOUSE, 64 Arlington St., Park Plaza Hotel, 617- listing, page 66. 262-3473. This Todd English culinary triumph is an American steakhouse with European influences, boasting a delectable menu that spans all the regions of the world. A firewall is the main focus of the dining room, running along the back wall ALLSTON/BRIGHTON where the cooking becomes entertainment. D, C, LS. $$$$

BIG CITY RESTAURANT, 138 Brighton Ave., Allston, 617-782- BRASSERIE JO, The Colonnade Hotel, 120 Huntington Ave., 2020. In this renovated, two-floor bank building, you’ll find 617-425-3240. The “sister” of chef Jean Joho’s award-win- one-of-a-kind “retro-metro” decor featuring life-size murals, ning Chicago restaurant combines traditional favorites (coq au

ants 8 Park Plaza (Next to P.F. Chang’s) as well as 20 champion-size pool tables, 80 beers on tap and vin and steak frites) with unique specialties (Uncle Hansi’s Boston, MA 02116 • 617-523-1020 12 wines by the glass. L, D, LS, Sat & SB. $ onion tart). Home-brewed beer, a wine list and desserts in the Sun.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. • Fri. 11 a.m.–midnight French tradition complete this Gallic experience. Seasonal out- 4 • Sat. 12 p.m.–midnight THE SUNSET GRILL & TAP, 130 Brighton Ave. (corner of Harvard door patio. B, L, D. $$ 1 and Brighton avenues), Allston, 617-254-1331. This popular Allston hangout features Boston’s best beer selection, with more CLIO, The Eliot Hotel, 370-A Commonwealth Ave., 617-536- 4 than 112 beers on tap and over 400 microbrews. Its food 7200. James Beard Award-winning chef Ken Oringer serves up

estaur entices too, with award-winning steam beer burgers, famous French-American fare with some striking Asian influences in a

r curly fries, buffalo wings and giant nachos. L, D, C, LS, SB. $ sleek, sophisticated atmosphere that’s styled after a Parisian supper club. Bacon-wrapped foie gras, caramelized swordfish

au poivre and ginger-glazed oxtail keep customers coming 2 RESTAURANT & LOUNGE BACK BAY back for more. D. $$$$

APROPOS, Sheraton Boston, 39 Dalton St., 617-375-6500. COTTONWOOD CAFE, 222 Berkeley St., 617-247-2225. Drawing its influences from American regional cuisine with a Specialties include open-grill steaks, poultry, pasta and vegetarian 3 dishes. Voted “Boston’s Best Southwestern Restaurant” and “Boston’s Best Margarita.” KEY AVERAGE PRICE OF Reservations recommended. Two hours B ...... Breakfast DINNER ENTREES free validated parking. L Mon–Fri 11:30 L ...... Lunch $ ...... Most less than $12 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; D Sun–Thu ’til 10 p.m., Fri & Award-Winning Contemporary American Cuisine D...... Dinner $$ ...... $12–18 Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sat & SB 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. BR ...... Brunch $$$ ...... $19–25 C, LS, VP. www.cottonwoodboston.com. $$ PRE-THEATRE PRIX FIXE $33.00 SB ...... Sunday Brunch $$$$ ...... Most more than $25 Daily offerings also include a decadent 4 course Chef’s Tasting and our sumptuous a la carte menu C ...... Cocktails Many restaurants offer a wide DAVIO’S NORTHERN ITALIAN LS ..Late Supper (serving after 10 p.m.) range of entrees and prices; STEAKHOUSE, 75 Arlington St., 617- Experience dining excellence, 33 style. VP...... Valet Parking therefore, the classifications are 357-4810. Enjoy fine steaks, pasta and 5 33 Stanhope Street, Boston NC ...... Credit Cards Not Accepted only approximations. seafood, or lighter fare in the spacious bar. 617.572.3311 • www.33restaurant.com ___ * ...... Entertainment L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Sun–Tue 5 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 64 P ANORAMA CUISINE INDEX *THE OAK ROOM, 138 St. James Ave., Fairmont Copley Plaza meticulously restored former armory, known simply as “The American French/French-American Italian Seafood Hotel, 617-267-5300. This sophisticated spot offers a traditional Castle,” is accented by seven working fireplaces and dining Apropos, p. 64 Aujourd’hui, p. 64 Antico Forno, p. 73 Azure, p. 64 steakhouse menu of prime steaks and chops and fresh seafood. rooms that span four floors to blend fun and formality. D, C. $$$$ Aura, p. 74 Brasserie Jo, p. 64 Antonio’s, p. 68 B&G Oysters, p. 74 Replete with stately wood paneling, rich draperies and wall orna- Avenue One, p. 70 Cafe Fleuri, p. 70 Caliterra, p. 70 Chart House, p. 70 ments for a comfortable yet elegant feel. B, L, D daily. Adjoining SONSIE, 327 Newbury St., 617-351-2500. Recommended by Big City Restaurant, p. 64 Clio, p. 64 Davide, p. 73 Dolphin Seafood, p. 69 Oak Bar offers martinis, raw bar and full Oak Room menu. $$$$ Boston magazine as the place to “see and be seen.” The lively Bob’s Southern Bistro, p. 74 Eastern Standard, p. 72 Davio’s Northern Italian Gourmeli’s Seafood, p. 66 restaurant features a streetside cafe, 50-foot mahogany bar, Cheers, p. 68 Hamersley’s Bistro, p. 74 Steakhouse, p. 64 Great Bay, p. 73 *THE RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL, 15 Arlington St., 617-536-5700. brick oven, creative takes on classic American cuisine and a Delux Cafe & Lounge, p. 74 Julien, p. 71 Florentine Cafe, p. 73 Harborside Grill, p. 72 This 1927 culinary landmark offers award-winning contempo- colorful dining room. The restaurant’s newest attraction is its Dick’s Last Resort, p. 72 L’Espalier, p. 66 L’Aroma Cafe, p. 66 Jasper White’s Summer rary French cuisine. The historic Dining Room is available for downstairs candlelit wine bar, an intimate and lovely brick- Excelsior, p. 66 Locke-Ober, p. 71 Lucca Restaurant & Bar, Shack, p. 66 special events only. The Cafe: B, L, D, Sat & SB. The Lounge: L, walled spot in which to enjoy items from a 250-bottle menu. L, Finale, p. 66 No. 9 Park, p. 69 p. 73 Legal Sea Foods, p. 75 D, C, LS. The Bar: L, D, C, LS. $$$$ D, C, LS, VP. $$$ The Federalist, p. 68 Pigalle, p. 75 Maggiano’s Little Italy, p. 75 McCormick & Schmick’s Hard Rock Cafe, p. 66 Spire, p. 72 Mamma Maria, p. 73 Seafood, p. 71 SHINO EXPRESS SUSHI, 144 Newbury St., 617-262-4530. If STEPHANIE’S ON NEWBURY, 190 Newbury St., 617-236-0990. Jer-Ne Restaurant & Bar, Massimino’s Cucina Oceana, p. 71 your day of shopping has left you craving sushi, this tiny, subter- Lauded by The New York Times, chef/owner Stephanie Sidell’s p. 70 French Country Italiana, p. 73 Skipjack’s, p. 67 ranean sushi bar specializes in freshly prepared maki rolls and eatery showcases sophisticated cooking and classic comfort Om, p. 69 Hungry i, p. 68 Maurizio’s, p. 73 Turner Fisheries, p. 67 fun specials. Affordably priced, Shino Express offers Newbury food. Casual elegance at its best with a sidewalk cafe, club-like Meritage, p. 71 Terramia Ristorante, p. 74 Wisteria, p. 75 Street shoppers a fast, cheap dining alternative. L & D. $ bar and skylit dining space. Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun Parker’s Restaurant, p. 71 Ice Cream Via Matta, p. 68 Ye Old Union Oyster House, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. L, D, SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m., C, VP Tue–Sat Stephanie’s on Newbury, Cold Stone Creamery, p. 75 p. 72 SKIPJACK’S SEAFOOD EMPORIUM, 199 Clarendon St., Copley evenings. $$$ p. 67 Japanese/Sushi Square, 617-536-3500; other locations outside Boston. Enjoy a The Sunset Grill & Tap, Indian Shino Express Sushi, p. 67 Southwestern comfortable atmosphere and specialties such as blackened 33 RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE, 33 Stanhope St., 617-572- p. 64 Gandhi, p. 69 Ginza, p. 70 Cottonwood Cafe, p. 64 tuna sashimi, moonfish, Maryland crabcakes and lobster. 3311. Under the guidance of executive chef Anthony E. Theatre Cafe, p. 75 Fajitas & ’Ritas, p. 70 Winner of Best of Boston 2003 award for seafood. Jazz Brunch Dawodu, this stylish establishment offers an exceptional and 33 Restaurant and Lounge, International Mediterranean Sun 11 a.m.–3 p.m. L & D Sun–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat unique fusion of traditional New England cuisine with hints of p. 67 Intrigue, p. 70 Avila Modern Spanish/Tapas ’til 11 p.m. $$ the exotic. L Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–3 p.m. D Mon–Sat 5–11 p.m. 209, p. 74 Rialto, p. 69 Mediterranean, p. 75 BarLola, p. 64 Bar: Mon–Sat 5 p.m.–2 a.m. Lounge: nightly 8 p.m.–2 a.m. Top of the Hub, p. 67 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Olives, p. 69 Toro, p. 74 SMITH & WOLLENSKY, The Castle at Columbus & Arlington, SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m. $$$$ Upper Crust, p. 68 p. 67 617-423-1112. Located in a spectacular setting where chef Sonsie, p. 67 Museum Dining Steakhouses Tindaro Losurdo creates outstanding steakhouse fare, this leg- *TOP OF THE HUB, 800 Boylston St., Prudential Center, 617- Chinese Zephyr on the Charles, Bravo, p. 72 Bonfire Steakhouse, p. 64 endary restaurant features USDA Prime dry aged steaks. The 536-1775. There is nothing like sitting 52 stories above Boston Chau Chow City p. 70 p. 69 The Gardner Cafe, p. 72 Davio’s Northern Italian New Shanghai Restaurant Museum of Science, p. 71 Steakhouse, p. 64 p. 70 Irish The Oak Room, p. 67

P.F. Chang’s, p. 75 Kennedy’s Midtown, p. 71 New England Ruth’s Chris Steak House, r

Henrietta’s Table, p. 69 p. 71 estaur Eastern Mediterranean Sheraton Commander Smith & Wollensky, p. 67 Lala Rokh, p. 68 Restaurant, p. 69 ants 5–10 p.m., Wed–Sat ’til 11 p.m.; C, VP. www.davios.com. $$$. rock ’n’ roll. Try the infamous “Pig” sandwich, and check out SEE LOCATOR #1 ON CENTER MAP. memorabilia including “The Aerosmithsonian,” the “Boston Wall of Fame,” Phish’s vacuum, Jim Morrison’s leather pants ants EXCELSIOR, The Heritage on the Garden, 272 Boylston St., 617- and Madonna’s bustier. L, D, C, LS. $ 426-7878. This culinary masterpiece delivers bold and contem- porary American cuisine at this stunning Back Bay location. An JASPER WHITE’S SUMMER SHACK, 50 Dalton St., 617-867-

estaur impressive collection of 500 wines, representing all regions of the 9955; 149 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, 617-520-

r world, is displayed in Boston’s only climate-controlled glass wine 9500. Top-notch fare such as pan-roasted lobster, award- tower. Pre- and post-theater dining available. D, C, LS. $$$$ winning fried chicken and an impressive raw bar in a casual setting. Boston: Sun–Wed 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til FINALE, One Columbus Ave., 617-423-3184; 30 Dunster St., 11 p.m., raw bar Thu–Sat ’til 1 a.m. Cambridge: Mon–Thu Harvard Sq., Cambridge, 617-441-9797. One of the only 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m., Sun 3–9 p.m. $$$. dessert restaurants in America, Finale features items like the SEE LOCATOR #7 ON CENTER MAP. caramel carnivale and the “molten chocolate cake.” Chef Nicole Coady’s menu is complemented by a drink menu of L’AROMA CAFE, 85 Newbury St., 617-412-4001. This Italian ports, champagnes, cordials and “Finale Favorites.” A light cafe offers delicious soups, sandwiches and European pas- dinner menu is available. L & D. $$ tries and desserts, as well as Italian coffee and assorted teas. Relax in its spacious interior or enjoy outdoor patio din- GOURMELI’S SEAFOOD, Marriott Copley Place, 110 Hunting- ing from April through October. B, L. $ ton Ave., 617-236-5800 ext. 6741. Enjoy the sushi bar or indulge in fresh lobster, swordfish and more at this eatery in L’ESPALIER, 30 Gloucester St., 617-262-3023. Situated in a the heart of the Back Bay. Gourmeli’s offers an array of fresh historic Back Bay townhouse, this sophisticated French clas- New England seafood and entrees. B, L, D. $$$ sic helmed by top chef Frank McClelland is a favorite of both power brokers and couples out for a romantic evening. *HARD ROCK CAFE, 131 Clarendon St., two blocks from Widely acknowledged by critics and diners alike as one of Boylston St., 617-424-ROCK (7625). HRC Boston serves up the finest French restaurants in the nation, and the creme de ___ down-home American food, seasoned with a healthy dose of la creme of acclaimed Boston eateries. D. $$$$ ___ 66 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 67 for dining and a spectacular view of the city. The magnificent NO. 9 PARK, 9 Park St., 617-742-9991. Nationally acclaimed cuisine complements the breathtaking views. L, D, LS, C. Live chef Barbara Lynch serves up French and Italian style dishes in jazz seven nights a week. $$$$ a sophisticated bistro atmosphere atop Beacon Hill. Chef Lynch has a subtle hand in the kitchen, turning out inventive rendi- TURNER FISHERIES, Westin Hotel Copley Place, Stuart and tions of classic Italian and French fare such as fresh pasta and Dartmouth streets, 617-424-7425. Known for its fresh seafood foie gras. L, D, LS. $$$$ and winner of several regional awards, Turner features seven- foot-high French windows, swooping Hollywood banquettes, mahogany paneling and cobalt blue tile. Private dining rooms CAMBRIDGE accommodate 10–140 guests. VP available on Dartmouth Street. B,L,D,C,LS.$$$ DOLPHIN SEAFOOD, 1105 Mass Ave., Cambridge, 617-661- 2937; 12 Washington St., Natick, 508-655-0669. These fami- UPPER CRUST, 222 Newbury St. 617-262-0096; 20 Charles St. ly-owned restaurants offer seafood hand-picked every morn- 617-723-9600, 286 Harvard St., Brookline, 617-734-4900; 41 ing from the Boston piers. Complement your dish with the Waltham St., Lexington, 781-274-0089. Traditional Neapolitan- famous “Dolphintini” cocktail. L & D Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–10 style pizza (thin crust, chunky sauce) in an urban setting. Come p.m. www.dolphinseafood.com. $$ sit with friends in the uniquely designed dining room, enjoy a specialty pizza and watch your favorite team on an HDTV GANDHI, 704 Mass. Ave., Central Square, Cambridge, 617- screen. If you’re on the go, call ahead for take-out (allow 20-25 491-1104. Savor the scents and flavors of India and enjoy minutes) or just pop in for a slice. Delivery is available. $$ exceptional Indian cuisine in the heart of Central Square. Only the freshest produce, herbs and delicate spices are VIA MATTA, 79 Park Plaza, 617-422-0008. Radius owners used to prepare the healthy fare. L daily noon–3 p.m.; D Michael Schlow and Christopher Myers helm this Italian-style noon–11 p.m.; SB noon–3 p.m. L buffet daily noon–3 p.m., trattoria, named in 2002 as one of “America’s Best New “All you can eat” $5.95. Beer & wine. $ Restaurants” by Esquire and “One of America’s Best Restaurants” by Gourmet. L, D, VP. $$$$ HENRIETTA’S TABLE, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., Cambridge, 617-661-5005. Nothing but locally grown and organic produce are used to create a lively, textured menu of BEACON HILL reinterpreted New England classics. Private dining room avail- able. B Mon–Fri 6:30–11 a.m., Sat 7–11 a.m., Sun 7–10:30 ANTONIO’S, 288 Cambridge St., 617-367-3310. One of Boston’s a.m.; Sat and SB noon–3 p.m.; L Mon–Fri noon–3 p.m.; D daily finest Italian restaurants (across from Massachusetts General 5:30–10 p.m. $ Hospital on historic Beacon Hill). Traditional Italian food with nightly specials and complementing wine list. Specials include OM, 92 Winthrop St., Cambridge, 617-575-2800. Acclaimed

homemade fusilli, shrimp margarita and chicken/sausage vinegar chef Rachel Klein serves New American cuisine in a beautifully r

peppers and potatoes. L, D Mon–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat lit and stunning upstairs dining room, while mixologist Clif estaur 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m. $ Travers prepares his signature Aromatherapy concoctions at the popular Om ultra-lounge downstairs. Om’s signature *CHEERS, 84 Beacon St., 617-227-9605. Also: Faneuil Hall creations include Steak & Eggs and Zen Te’. D, C. $$$ ants Marketplace, 617-227-0150. Both the original Beacon Hill pub and its spinoff offer a tasty selection of traditional fare and an RIALTO, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., Cambridge, 617- abundant beverage selection, including their award-winning 661-5050. One of Greater Boston’s top restaurants features fine Bloody Mary and a variety of draft beers. Live entertainment wines and cuisine from France, Italy and Spain. Chef Jody ants Thu–Sat nights, and officially licensed Cheers merchandise sold Adams lends her creative talents to menu items such as pome- on site. L, D, C, LS. $ granate glazed skate with cauliflower, brown butter, sesame seeds and mint. D only. Reservations recommended. $$$$

estaur THE FEDERALIST, Fifteen Beacon Hotel, 15 Beacon St., 617-670-

r 2515. The menu at this elite spot brings artistic flair to dishes like SHERATON COMMANDER RESTAURANT, 16 Garden St., Colorado rack of lamb and skillet-roasted French Dover sole, in an Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-234-1365. New England- atmosphere evoking the stately class of the world’s most private style cuisine in a relaxed, elegant setting with a casual clubs. A rooftop herb garden and in-kitchen fish tanks help to atmosphere. B, L, D, SB. $$ ensure culinary perfection. B, D, Sat & SB, C, LS. $$$$ ZEPHYR ON THE CHARLES, Hyatt Regency Cambridge, 575 1 HUNGRY I, 71 /2 Charles St., 617-227-3524. In a two-story Memorial Drive, Cambridge, 617-441-6510. This restaurant townhouse with three working fireplaces and an outdoor patio, serves small-portioned, tapas-like dishes, featuring eclectic Chef Peter Ballarin delights patrons with French country cuisine fare like sushi-grade tuna tartare and wood-grilled tiger and creative desserts. Signature dishes include venison au prawns. The setting features spectacular views of the Boston poivre and braised rabbit a la moutard. L Thu and Fri only, skyline. B, L, D, C. $$ noon–2 p.m.; D 5:30–9:30 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Private din- ing rooms available. $$$$. SEE LOCATOR #6 ON CENTER MAP. CHARLESTOWN LALA ROKH, 97 Mt. Vernon St., 617-720-5511. Named for a leg- endary Persian princess, this elegant restaurant is owned by sib- OLIVES, 10 City Square, Charlestown, 617-242-1999. lings Babak and Azita Bina. Using their mother’s recipes, they’ve Celebrity chef Todd English got his start with this local eatery created a unique dining experience in the only restaurant of its and the Charlestown flagship restaurant is still the unparal- kind in New England. L Mon–Fri noon–3 p.m.; D nightly 5:30–10 leled king of his endeavors. Sample English’s multi-layered, ___ p.m. Reservations recommended. C, VP. www.lalarokh.com. $$ ingredient rich, pan-Mediterranean creations. D. $$$$ ___ 68 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 69 CHINATOWN takes center stage in the Theatre District and features chef lively atmosphere, M & S also offers steak, chicken and pasta Scott Gambone’s signature seasonal surprises as well as dishes. Daily 11 a.m.–11:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til midnight. Bar CHAU CHOW CITY, 83 Essex St., Chinatown, 617-338-8158; 52 “common dishes” for patrons to share. B, L, D, SB, C, LS. $$$$ menu Mon–Fri 3:30–6:30 p.m., Sat & Sun 10 p.m.–midnight. $$$ Beach St., Chinatown, 617-426-6266. The Chau Chow offers authentic Swatowese seafood dishes, such as clams in black *JULIEN, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617-451- MERITAGE, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-439-3995. bean sauce and lobster or crab with ginger and scallion. Superb 1900. The award-winning Julien offers creative contemporary Fresh, seasonal cuisine is carefully matched to an appropriate service, and the daily dim sum attracts those with adventurous French cuisine in a formal dining room of unparalleled elegance vintage from the 12,000-bottle wine collection. The restaurant’s palates. Also great for an after-midnight meal. L, D, LS.$$ and intimacy. An ideal setting for pre-theatre dining, a private interior combines slate, marble, exotic wood and leather, creating business dinner or a romantic celebration. D Tue–Sat 6–10 a luxurious atmosphere to accompany a hearty meal. All menu GINZA, 16 Hudson St., Chinatown, 617-338-2261; 1002 Beacon p.m. Tapas menu available at bar Mon–Fri 4–7 p.m. $$$$ items come in appetizer and entree sizes. D, LS. $$$$ St., Brookline, 617-566-9688. This restaurant is a favorite of many sushi-loving Bostonians. Dine on the freshest raw fish and *KENNEDY’S MIDTOWN, 42 Province Street, 617-426-3333. MUSEUM OF SCIENCE, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Forget tempura with specialties like the Ginza Surprise, boasting a Kennedy’s offers all the comforts of a traditional pub, featur- dinner and a movie—now it’s brunch and a movie at the noon- selection of exotic sushi rolls and sashimi. L, D, LS.$$$ ing prime aged steaks, seafood and classic pub fare with a time Skyline Sunday Brunch. The package includes tickets to touch of class. Kennedy’s upstairs location offers a relaxing the Museum’s newest IMAX film, admission to the exhibit halls NEW SHANGHAI RESTAURANT, 21 Hudson St., Chinatown, dining atmosphere with a lively bar offering live piano music and free parking. Tickets: $32; seniors $31; children $30. 617-338-6688. Specializing in Shanghai and Cantonese cui- on Thu, Fri & Sun. Open daily; L 11 a.m.–4 p.m.; D Sun–Tue Reservations recommended. $ sine, this much-lauded Chinatown destination features a menu 4–10 p.m., Wed–Sat ’til 11 p.m.; B Sat & Sun 9 a.m.–2 p.m. chockfull of Chinese favorites, such as General Gau’s chicken www.kennedysmidtown.com. $$ OCEANA, Marriott Long Wharf Hotel, 296 State St., 617-227- and Peking duck, as well as delectable seafood dishes, like the 3838. One of Boston’s premier seafood spots. Boasting a Reservations Accepted crispy whole fish and scallops with black peppercorn glaze. L, LOCKE-OBER, 3 Winter Place, 617-542-1340. Helmed by breathtaking view of the harbor, Oceana offers uniquely pre- D, LS.$$ local culinary innovator Lydia Shire (Biba, Excelsior), this pared fresh seafood. B, L, D, SB. $$ downtown landmark has been refurbished and restored to its former glory. The menu of this Boston Brahmin bastion has PARKER’S RESTAURANT, Omni Parker House, 60 School St., DOWNTOWN been updated, but Shire has kept many of its classics, 617-725-1600. Executive chef Jerry Tice celebrates nostalgic including the steak tartar and the legendary lobster cuisine with a contemporary flair. The stately dining room In the Theatre District AVENUE ONE, Hyatt Regency (near The Opera House and Savannah. L, D, LS. $$$$ reflects the rich culinary heritage that lives on at the birthplace 8 Park Plaza • 617-573-0821 Downtown Crossing), 1 Ave. de Lafayette, 617-422-5579. of Boston cream pie and the Parker House roll. B, L, D. $$$$ (at the Transportation Building) Enjoy Boston’s most extensive fondue menu in a relaxed MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, Park Plaza atmosphere. B, L, D, C, VP. $$ Hotel, 34 Columbus Ave., 617-482-3999; Faneuil Hall Marketplace, RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE, 45 School St., 617-742-8401. pfchangs.com • 1-866-PFCHANG (732-4264) North Market, 617-720-5522. Renowned for fresh seafood and Housed in Boston’s Old City Hall, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse offers *CAFÉ FLEURI, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617-451-1900. Enjoy what Boston magazine calls “the best Sunday brunch in Boston,” or sample a la carte Mediterran-

ean and American fare, and French desserts—all within a r

A Boston Tradition sunlit garden atrium. B Mon–Fri 6:30–11:30 a.m., Sat estaur A National Historic Landmark 7:30–11 a.m.; L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Mon–Sat 6– 10 p.m., Sun 4–10 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–1:30 p.m. $$

ants CALITERRA, Hilton Boston/Financial District, 89 Broad St., 617-348-1234. Located in the heart of the Financial District, this casual, upscale restaurant features Cal-Ital cuisine with seasonal New England flavors. B, L, D. $$ ants

CHART HOUSE, 60 Long Wharf, 617-227-1576. The Chart House boasts an impressive menu of fresh seafood, including estaur America’s specialties like the crab, avocado and mango stack appetizer, r shrimp fresca, macadamia crusted mahi-mahi, slow roasted Oldest prime rib and its signature dessert—hot chocolate lava cake. Restaurant Private parties for 30 or more by reservation only. L, D, C. $$$ On The Freedom Trail FAJITAS & ’RITAS, 25 West St., 617-426-1222. Established in 1989, Fajitas & ’Ritas features fresh, healthy Tex-Mex and In The barbecue cuisine. The restaurant stresses generous portions, Faneuil Hall Area affordable prices, open casual space and prompt, friendly service. Mon–Tue 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m., Wed, Thu & Sat ’til Specializing In Yankee Style Seafood, 10 p.m., Fri ’til 11 p.m., Sun noon–8 p.m. C, LS. www.fajitas Fresh New England Lobster andritas.com. $. SEE LOCATOR #3 ON CENTER MAP.

And Grilled Meats INTRIGUE, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-856- 41 Union Street • 617-227-2750 7744. Casual elegance surrounds this unique cafe. Beautiful Sunday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm decor and breathtaking harbor views are perfect for those who Friday & Saturday 11 am-10 pm desire a cosmopolitan, relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy a global Union Bar til-Midnight menu created by renowned chef Daniel Bruce. B, L, D, LS. $ All Major Credit Cards Honored • Validated Parking Visit Our Website • www.unionoysterhouse.com JER-NE RESTAURANT & BAR, The Ritz-Carlton Boston ___ Common, 12 Avery St., 617-574-7176. This lively hot spot ___ 70 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 71

the finest USDA prime steaks served sizzling hot, as well as GREAT BAY, Hotel Commonwealth, 500 Commonwealth Ave., fresh seafood and an award-winning wine list, all in a gracious 617-532-5300. Christopher Myers and chef Michael Schlow environment with warm hospitality. L, D, C. $$$$ (Radius, Via Matta) present their unique take on the seafood and raw bar concepts. This eclectic space in Kenmore Square SPIRE, Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., 617-772-0202. serves delectable fare such as fish tacos and the acclaimed Alluringly ensconced in Boston’s most fashionable luxury bou- baked stuffed lobster. L, D, SB, C, LS. $$$ tique hotel, Spire features a striking interior and chef Gabriel Frasca’s cuisine, which combines flavors from France, Italy, Spain and Portugal with seasonal New England ingredients. NORTH END Named one of “America's 50 Best Hotel Restaurants” by Food and Wine. B, L, D LS, VP. $$$$ ANTICO FORNO, 93 Salem St., 617-723-6733. Antico Forno— Italian for “old stove”—features brick-oven classics such as YE OLDE UNION OYSTER HOUSE, 41 Union St., 617-227-2750. roasted chicken in a natural juices with garlic and herbs; pizza Steps from Quincy Market stands America’s oldest restaurant, with artichoke hearts, porcini mushrooms and buffalo mozzarella; serving Yankee-style seafood, beef and chicken. Famed for its and linguini with clams, mussels, calamari and shrimp, sautéed oyster bar where Daniel Webster dined daily. Specialties include in a plum tomato sauce and baked in parchment. L Mon–Sat clam chowder, swordfish, and fresh lobster. L, D Sun–Thu 11 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.; D Mon–Thu 3:30–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til a.m.–9:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 10 p.m. VP. www.unionoyster 10:30 p.m., Sun 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. $$ house.com. $$$ DAVIDE, 326 Commercial St., 617-227-5745. Boasts an upscale yet casual atmosphere with Northern Italian-inspired dishes. EAST BOSTON/AIRPORT Accolades include the Zagat Award, The Five-Star Diamond Award and plaudits from Wine Spectator. All pastas and desserts Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner HARBORSIDE GRILL, Hyatt Harborside, 101 Harborside Drive, made fresh on premises. Reservations recommended. L Cocktails • Late Night Dining 617-568-6060. The Harborside Grill offers panoramic views of the Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D daily 5–10 p.m. C, VP. $$$ Saturday and Sunday Brunch Boston skyline from every seat in the dining room. During the day, the Grill is a welcoming casual location for a bowl of chowder, and FLORENTINE CAFE, 333 Hanover St., 617-227-1777. Revered Langham Hotel, Boston (formerly Le Meridien) at The Colonnade Hotel 250 Franklin Street, Boston in the evening is transformed into a sophisticated seafood restau- by visitors and residents for decades, this historic cafe is one rant. Open daily 6 a.m.–10 p.m. B, L, D, SB, C, VP. $$$ of Boston’s culinary landmarks. Lobster ravioli with tomatoes 120 Huntington Avenue • Boston 617.956.8752 and lobster cream sauce and seared veal with grilled shrimp in 617.425.3240 • brasseriejoboston.com www.langhamhotels.com Frangelico mushroom sauce are just two of the Italian wonders FANEUIL HALL awaiting you in this charming bistro setting. Daily noon–1 a.m. L, D, C. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #5 ON CENTER MAP. *DICK’S LAST RESORT, Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall

Marketplace, 617-267-8080. Watch for the outrageous antics of LUCCA RESTAURANT & BAR, 226 Hanover St., 617-742-9200. r

Dick’s sassy staff as they serve up buckets of sloppy ribs, succu- Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2002, Zagat estaur lent crab and shrimp, juicy steaks and chicken, two-fisted sand- Survey’s “Top New Restaurant 2002” and winner of Best of wiches, burgers and salads. If that isn’t entertaining enough, Boston 2001, this eatery is racking up raves for its regional there’s live music every night with no cover. L, D, C. www.dick- Italian cuisine, superb wine list, lively bar and elegant ants slastresort.com. $$. SEE LOCATOR #2 ON CENTER MAP. ambiance. D nightly 5–11 p.m.; Sat & Sun ’til 11:30 p.m.; bar menu ’til 12:15 a.m.; C ’til 1 a.m. VP. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #8 ON CENTER MAP.

FENWAY/KENMORE SQUARE ants MAMMA MARIA, 3 North Square, 617-523-0077. “Mamma BRAVO, Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-369- Maria stands for what Italian food is. Simplicity, quality ingredi- 3474. Chef Benjamin Cevelo brings his creative touch to an ents and fun…the food of love” (Emeril Lagasse, 2004).

estaur eclectic and contemporary menu. The restaurant’s bold decor, Mamma Maria offers charming views of the neighborhood and

r created by famed restaurant designer Peter Niemitz, meshes city skyline, as well as a Wine Spectator Award-winning wine with a rotating selection of the MFA’s modern masterpieces. L list. D Sun–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m. VP. www. daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Wed–Fri 5:30–8:30 p.m.; SB 11:30 mammamaria.com. $$$. SEE LOCATOR #9 ON CENTER MAP. a.m.–3 p.m. $$$ MASSIMINO’S CUCINA ITALIANA, 207 Endicott St., 617- EASTERN STANDARD, Hotel Commonwealth, 528 523-5959. Owner/chef Massimino was formerly head chef of Commonwealth Ave., 617-532-9100. This brasserie in the heart Naples’ Hotel Astoria and Switzerland’s Metropolitan Hotel. of Kenmore Square resembles an old hotel dining room with its His eatery’s specialties include veal chop stuffed with arugu- Prices range from $45.00 to $56.00 decor, but the restaurant attracts a diverse crowd, from busi- la, prosciutto, smoked mozzarella and black olives, amongst Children under 12, $17.50. nessmen to Red Sox fans seeking a pre-game bite. Its menu other delights. L, D, LS, C. Mon–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sunday seatings: 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. caters to both crowds, with offerings ranging from the Good Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun noon–9 p.m. $ Plate of Offal to veal shank to sandwiches. B, L, D. $$ MAURIZIO’S, 364 Hanover St., North End, 617-367-1123. THE GARDNER CAFÉ, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 280 Casual, intimate, understated—serving some of the best The Fenway, 617-566-1401. Chef Peter Crowley offers casual- Mediterranean cuisine in Boston. Enjoy fresh fish from the Langham Hotel, Boston (formerly Le Meridien) yet-elegant, French-infused fare with an artistic twist. The sea- grill, roasted rack of lamb with rosemary and garlic in a chi- 250 Franklin Street, Boston sonal menu changes every few weeks, often inspired by cur- anti sauce as well as chef/owner Maurizio’s favorite pasta 617.451.1900, ext. 7125 rent events at the museum as well as Mrs. Gardner’s own dishes. D Mon–Sat 5–10 p.m., Sun 2–10 p.m.; L Fri & Sat. www.langhamhotels.com recipe books. Warmer weather allows seating amongst the lush Mention Panorama for free appetizer for table. Reservations ___ vegetation of the museum’s Monks Garden. L, SB. $$ accepted. www.mauriziosboston.com. $$ ___ 72 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 73 Shino Express Sushi TERRAMIA RISTORANTE, 98 Salem St., 617-523-3112. mances by talented local jazz musicians which accent a THEATRE DISTRICT Since opening in 1993, Terramia has aimed to convince delightful assortment of southern and Cajun cuisines to satis- North End diners that there was always more to Italian food fy any palate. Live jazz SB. L, D, LS, C. $$ AVILA MODERN MEDITERRANEAN, One Charles Street South, than red sauce. Specializing in creative interpretations of 617-267-4810. Enjoy flavors of Spain, Portugal, France, Italy Italian classics, Terramia offers seasonally based dishes and DELUX CAFE & LOUNGE, 100 Chandler St., 617-338-5258. and Greece with a modern flair. The menu includes small plates an extensive wine list in a cozy, rustic atmosphere. D This tiny South End pub has long been a local favorite for its of cod fritters, fried cheese and chicken livers, appetizers of Sun–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 10:30 p.m. $$ inexpensive eats and rock-and-roll atmosphere. Don’t expect tuna ceviche, onion soup and watercress salad, as well as the typical bar food, however, as the eatery’s monthly menu can finest quality all natural beef and fresh seafood entrees, with include everything from pan-seared tuna to a grilled cheese breads, desserts and ice creams made fresh daily. L, D, C. $$$ SOUTH BOSTON WATERFRONT sandwich featuring brie and chutney to chips and salsa made with seasonal fruit. D, C, LS, NC. $ COLD STONE CREAMERY, 8 Park Plaza Suite D-5, 617-523- 144 Newbury St. Boston AURA, Seaport Hotel, One Seaport Lane, 617-385-4300. 1020; 175 Cambridge St., 617-275-4241; 201 Brookline Ave., Aura’s seasonal menus showcase a passion for using fresh, HAMERSLEY’S BISTRO, 533 Tremont St., 617-423-2700. 617-266-COLD; 100 City Square, Charlestown, 617-242-0100. local ingredients in his recipes. Chef John Merrill partners This pioneering French-American classic, helmed by the hus- Originating in the desert heat of Arizona in 1988, Cold Stone has 617-262-4530 www.shinoexpress.com with local farmers and fishermen to select freshly harvested band and wife team of Gordon and Fiona Hamersley, first put taken the country by storm with its unique, creamy blended ice vegetables, seafood that is just off the boat and specially the South End dining scene on the map. Try the duck confit cream mixed on a frozen granite stone to create a wide variety aged meats and cheeses to create his award-winning meals. or the roast chicken with garlic, lemon and parsley. Long of flavors. Served in a fresh baked waffle cone, Cold Stone B, L, D, SB. $$$ regarded as one of the city’s top tables. D. $$$$ lovers can create their own flavor combination from available New Location! mix-ins or choose from Cold Stone Originals like Candy Land, a 222 Newbury St. TORO, 1704 Washington St., 617-536-4400. Chef Ken blend of cake batter ice cream, Snickers, M&M’s and Kit Kat. $ (617) 262-0090 SOUTH END Oringer’s latest restaurant aims for a highly social dining experience. The seating is a series of communal tables LEGAL SEA FOODS RESTAURANT, 26 Park Plaza, Park B&G OYSTERS, 550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550. This and the small, perfect-for-sharing tapas dishes—such as Square Motor Mart, 617-426-4444; 255 State St., Long sophisticated South End raw bar from James Beard Award- salt cod fritters, rainbow beet salad and salty fried chili Wharf, 617-227-3115; Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., winning chef Barbara Lynch (No. 9 Park) and partner Garrett peppers—blend a variety of vibrant styles and flavors. 617-266-6800; other locations. For more than 50 years, Harker features bivalves from Wellfleet to the West Coast, as D, C. $$$ Legal Sea Foods has served the freshest seafood possible, well as signature dishes like the lobster BLT and the Maine including oysters, succulent New England lobsters and its lobster roll. L, D, LS, VP. $$ *209, 209 Columbus Ave., 617-536-0966. This casual eatery famous clam “chowda.” Extensive wine list. L & D. $$$ Delivery. serves a diverse menu of modernized comfort food with a Take out. *BOB’S SOUTHERN BISTRO, 604 Columbus Ave., 617-536- Southwestern flair, and is also a favorite of the Sunday MAGGIANO’S LITTLE ITALY, 4 Columbus Ave., Park Plaza Bldg., 6204. Boston’s premier soul food restaurant features perfor- brunch crowd. L, D, LS, C, SB. $$ 617-542-3456. Set in a vibrant dining atmosphere, Maggiano’s Dine-in.

blends the tradition of family, friends and good times with www.theuppercrustpizzeria.com authentic Italian cuisine. Offers old and new world Italian recipes, desserts and a full list of wines. Accommodations for

small parties and large banquets are available. L Mon–Thu r

11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; D 5–10 p.m., Fri ’til 11 p.m.; L & D Sat estaur 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. C. $$$

P.F. CHANG’S, 8 Park Plaza, 617-573-0821. Enjoy unforget- ants table Chinese cuisine, attentive service and delicious desserts all served in a stylish bistro setting. Featuring an award-win- ning wine list, P.F. Chang’s offers an extensive wine-by-the- glass program as well as original cocktails like the Lucky Cat ants Martini. L, D & LS. Reservations accepted. Sun–Thu 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til midnight. www.pfchangs.com. $$. SEE LOCATOR #10 ON CENTER MAP. estaur

r PIGALLE, 75 Charles St. South, 617-423-4944. This welcom- ing bistro in Park Square brings exquisite French cuisine to the Theatre District via the inventive culinary artistry and per- sonally charming service of co-owners and husband-and- wife team Marc Orfaly and Kerri Foley. D, VP. $$$

THEATRE CAFE, Radisson Hotel, 200 Stuart St., 617-574- 2752. Located in the heart of the Theatre District, this restau- rant features traditional American fare in a comfortable atmosphere and is a great location for pre- and post-theater dining. Seasonal outdoor dining and discounted parking at on-site garage is available. B, L, D. $$

WISTERIA, Doubletree Hotel Boston, 821 Washington St., 617-956-7900. This restaurant and bar with a nouveau Asian twist offers an innovative menu that synthesizes New England seafood and Asian cuisine. Impeccable service and attention to detail are apparent, from the unique presentation of entrees on signature china to the welcoming hotel towel ___ offered upon being seated. L & D. $$$ ___ 74 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 75 ON THE MENU

OYSTERS Bluepoint o Wellfeet o Pemaquid o Boston’s Tables o OUMJIAN Kumamoto Malpeque OUY K CHOWDERS & SOUPS

creamy clam chowder EREK bermuda fish & crab chowder D BY O STARTERS & SNACKS T HO steamers o mussels o P grilled littleneck clams JASPER WHITE’S SPECIALTIES Summer Shack clam bake: SUMMER SHACK 50 Dalton St. • 617-867-9955 lobster, mussels, clams, corn, 149 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge • 617-520-9500 potatos, egg & chorizo o Alaskan www.summershackrestaurant.com king crab legs o wok seared lobster, ginger & scallion o Shack he latest restaurants from Jasper White, Boston’s godfather bouillabaisse, Provencal style o of seafood, serve a bounty of seafood options in that outdoor Shack surf & turf: grilled & style of feasting made popular by clam shacks found from Cape marinated shrimp and steak tips T Cod to Maine. And regardless of the weather, it’s also open all year long.

ON THE MENU

ANTIPASTI Fresh Maine Lobster Fritters Slow cooked Duck leg

PASTA Housemade artichoke and Fontina Ravioli, creamed spinach, pulled Duck, exotic mushrooms, Truffle oil o Giant Open Faced Ravioli with Sea Scallops, Shrimp and Fresh Zucchini in a Lobster Mascarpone Cream TERRAMIA RISTORANTE SECONDI 98 Salem St. • 617-523-3112 Filet of Pork Tenderloin, pistachio www.terramiaristorante.com onions mustard crust, sweet panettone, celery root, spinach, his rustic but cozy trattoria specializes in creative interpre- mustard glaze o Pan roasted filet tations of Italian classics. Since opening in 1993, Terramia Your guide to dining out in the Hub Mignon, creamed sweet potato, baby T has aimed to convince North End diners that there was spinach, Gorgonzola, red wine always more to Italian food than red sauce. With only about a reduction, crispy Shallots dozen tables, this popular restaurant guarantees an intimate atmosphere, especially on weekends, when the place is packed and the busy waiters recite nightly specials over the lively crowd.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION ON THE MENU ON THE MENU

RAW BAR APPETIZERS o Crab, Avocado and Mango Stack Seared Boneless Buffalo Tenders o Scallops o Peppered Ahi Tuna Shrimp Cocktail & Bacon o Clam Chowder AIIA S APPETIZERS ® Coconut Crunchy Shrimp o Lobster STERLING BEEF T o Spring Rolls o Jumbo Lump Crab Cake Bourbon Street Sirloin Montreal RET Steak® o “Hand-Cut” Filet Mignon o B BY

SEAFOOD Shepherds Pie O Steamed Maine Lobster o Dynamite T HO Mahi Mahi o Herb Crusted Salmon FRESH FISH P o Spiced Yellowfin Ahi o Pan Seared Fish & Chips o Honey Bourbon o Sea Scallops Baked Stuffed Shrimp CHART HOUSE Salmon o Baked Seafood Casserole KENNEDY’S MIDTOWN o Alaskan King Crab Legs o 60 Long Wharf • 617-227-1576 42 Province St. • 617-426-3333 Dungeness Crab Clusters chart-house.com PASTA & POULTRY www.kennedysmidtown.com o PRIME RIB & STEAKS Chicken, Broccoli & Ziti Lobster et Chart House take you to a place where time stands still, o arm and enchanting, Kennedy’s Irish Pub & Steak House Prime Rib o Filet Mignon o New Ravioli Classic Chicken Marsala York Strip o Tenderloin Medallions the historic Hancock Counting House. This Boston landmark offers all the comforts of a traditional pub with a touch of L once housed the offices of John Hancock, an American Patriot. SANDWICHES Wclass. Old World-style dining rooms accented with historic DESSERT Experience their million-dollar renovations while savoring a seamless Kennedy’s Sirloin Burger o photos and soft candlelight provide a classic setting, while the Hot Chocolate Lava Cake blend of high quality seafood and steaks—including whole, steamed Mushroom Swiss Burger o Dublin mahogany bar offers a relaxed experience. An upbeat piano bar is fea- Raspberry Crème Brulée lobster, cracked for you right at your table, and prime rib rubbed with Chicken Sandwich o Kennedy’s Club tured select nights and during brunch. Just steps from Boston Common, aromatic herbs and spices and slow roasted to succulent perfection. theaters and shopping, Kennedy’s is a welcome respite for all.

ON THE MENU ON THE MENU

ANTIPASTI APPETIZERS Fagottini ai Funghi di Bosco: Salt and Pepper Soft Shell Crab Puff pastry stuffed with wild Jin’s BBQ Spare Ribs mushrooms and fontina cheese in a marsala sauce o Capesante a Forno: Roasted scallops in a red pepper SUSHI sauce with basil oil Crispy Tuna Spider Roll

PRIMI NOODLES Fusilli alla Boscaiola: Hand-rolled Singapore Street Noodles pasta with wild mushroom, prosciutto in a parmigiano cream sauce ENTREES DAVIDE Filet of Salmon with JIN RESTAURANT PESCE 326 Commercial St., North End • 617-227-5745 Ginger or Lemon Route 1 North, 20 Frank P. Bennett Hwy., Saugus Tonno e Capesante Balsamico: Pan-seared www.daviderestaurant.com Cantonese Roasted Duck 781-231-8888 tuna and scallop in a balsamic reduction with fresh diced tomato and basil Green Thai Curry with Coconut Milk n integral part of the North End’s dining scene for over Korean Style Grilled Beef Short Ribs his unique destination located high atop a hill along CARNI 20 years, Davide first opened in 1982. While reflecting Route 1 in Saugus was designed after a Beijing palace to Carre D’Angello all’Aglio e A the rich traditions of Northern Italy, the dishes amaze DESSERT T enhance your authentic Asian cuisine experience. Jin Rosmarino: Roasted rack of lamb diners with their originality. Davide has earned numerous Great Wall of features four function rooms, pan-Asian cuisine and New with a roasted garlic and rosemary accolades over the years, including recognition as one of the Chocolate Mousse Cake England’s largest buffet, as well as a full liquor license, crust in Barolo wine nation’s top 50 Italian restaurants, and boasts one of the finest Ginger Ice Cream entertainment and comedy shows. wine lists in the city.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION neighborhoods NORTH END

index NORTH END 81 known for its abundance of TIME TRAVELING: North Square’s cobblestoned streets play host to not only Old World Italian restaurants. The CAMBRIDGE 85 fine Italian eateries, but also to the historic Charm cuisine is authentic and Paul Revere House on the Freedom Trail. consistently delicious, BACK BAY 88 whether Old World Sicilian, Renowned as Boston’s traditional Northern circa 1680) was owned by neighborhoods FENWAY 90 “Little Italy,” the North End Italian or Mediterranean the famed silversmith/ is constantly brimming fusion. And though the patriot/midnight rider and BEACON HILL 92 with the aroma of garlic ambience can be boister- his family (including 16 and freshly cooked cuisine. ous, romantic or some- children!) from 1770–1800. But much of the North where in between, the set- Christ Church, a.k.a. the End’s charm comes from ting is usually intimate, Old North Church, is its storied history. The old- with patrons rubbing Boston’s oldest standing est neighborhood in the elbows with one another church (built in 1723) and city, it gave birth to the in crowded dining rooms— served as the signal tower American Revolution on its it’s all part of the that spurred Revere on his BRIGHT LIGHT: narrow cobblestone streets European feel. jaunt through the country- Gaslamps and brick buildings, such as these in Beacon Hill, and has been home to wave One of Boston’s most side. And Copp’s Hill are two hallmarks of the city’s after wave of new immi- well-known attractions is, Burying Ground, founded historic neighborhoods. grants. Today, the North of course, the Freedom in 1660 as the Hub’s sec- Refer to page 92. End remains one of the Trail. Three of its sites are ond cemetery, provided the most European neighbor- located in the North End. final resting place of many hoods in America. The Paul Revere House, famous colonials, such as PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF ___ The North End is widely Boston’s oldest home (built cont. on page 82 >> ___ ABOVE PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF 80 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 81 NTICO FORNO— NORTH END AItalian for “old stove”— features brick-oven La Serata Completa classics, all cooked in a double-domed brick oven custom-built by a native Neapolitan craftsman. Antico Forno is an inviting neighborhood trattoria that provides a truly authentic Neapolitan experience.

93 Salem St., North End, Boston 617-723-6733 Cucina a Legna www.anticofornoboston.com

290–296 Hanover St., North End, Boston talian food lovers rave 617.227.7606 about the “creative www.vittoriacaffe.com Iand substantial ” cooking at this North End “keeper” that’s a “new star,” providing “classy modern Italian food.” The ever-changing menu incorporates seasonal vegetables and the catch of the day, and 98 Salem St., features homemade pasta North End, Boston

dishes prepared in 617-523-3112

unconventional styles. www.terramiaristorante.com

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g g M G G i 227 Hanover St., North End, Boston M << cont. from page 81 Edmund Hartt, whose CELEBRATE Dodd House 617.227.1777 neighborhoods THE OLD the Puritan preachers shipyard constructed the GOOD TIMES: NEIGHBORHOOD: Processions and www.florentinecafeboston.com Gift Shoppe Dozens of local shops offer- of the Mather family, U.S. Navy’s flagship U.S.S. festivals celebrating Opposite the Old North Church ing authentic Italian goods, including Salem Witch Constitution. the feast days of from coffee to cold cuts and various saints take 176A Salem St., North End pastry to pasta, line the Trial-era firebrand In keeping with its Old over the streets of the

617-523-8556 streets of the North End. Cotton Mather, and World character, the North North End throughout

M End observes many tradi- the summer.

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G 10% off with this coupon G tions imported from the M g g i shores of Europe. One such annual rite is the weekly Italian feasts and processions, kept alive by immi- grants and their descendents, that take 292 Hanover St., North End, Boston place throughout the summer and enliven neighborhoods 617.227.0295 this already spirited locale. These specta- www.stanzadeisigari.com cles usually celebrate the patron saints of Hookahs available Italian villages and center around jubilant parades of the saints’ statues through the North End’s winding roadways. Food Una Bella Serata ___ cont. on page 84 >> ___ ABOVE PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF TOP PHOTO COURTESY OF THE G REATER 82 PANORAMA B OSTON C ONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU JULY 3–16, 2006 83

WINE SPECTATOR AWARD OF EXCELLENCE NORTH END 2002–2006 TOP 5 NORTH END CAMBRIDGE EXPERIENCES:

1. Mike’s Pastry, 300 Hanover St., 617-742-3050. This renowned purveyor of cannoli, biscotti, torrone and other delicious baked goods has been satisfying sweet tooths for decades.

2. Paul Revere House, 19 North Square, 617-523- 2338. Built in 1680, the home of the legendary Revolutionary figure is the oldest building in downtown Boston. EGIONAL TALIAN UISINE R I C 3. Polcari’s Coffee, 105 Salem St., 617-227-0786. Dinner Nightly from 5 Perhaps the best-smelling store you’ll ever enter, Late night menu until 12:15 a.m. Polcari’s has been a fixture of the North End for Drinks until 1 a.m. generations, selling coffee, loose tea, grains and spices from all around the world. 226 Hanover St., North End, Boston (617) 742-9200 • www.luccaboston.com 4. Old North Church, 195 Salem St., 617-523- Valet Parking — Four Private Rooms 6676. Also known as Christ Church, Boston’s oldest standing church was built 230 years ago. It’s from the It’s lined with coffee shops, HIGHER LEARNING: The upstairs window that colonists hung lanterns to warn Massachusetts Institute of Technology is of the Redcoats’ departure for Lexington and Concord. Square burrito joints, down-home not only one of the area’s most prestigious music stores, and its own schools, it is also home to some very Deal striking architecture. 5. North End Market Tour, 64 Cross St., 617-523- share of great restaurants Experiencet of the like La Groceria, Gandhi and ranean & 6032. Longtime North End resident Michele Topor he people of Cambridge Cuchi Cuchi. Every night of the hear th End. leads award-winning culinary tours of the neighbor- T would like to inform the the week, fans of rock, jazz, University, which makes its Mediter • Top Rated hood three days a week, clueing visitors into the best Zagat Pick world that their fine city is hip-hop and the blues line quaint presence on the north

places for pastry, produce and more. neighborhoods discoveret in the the best Nor kept • Three-Time not a neighborhood of up at the doors of venues side of the square. With all secr Winner, Boston Magazine’s “Best of << cont. from page 83 Boston. Although it often such as the Middle East this intellectual energy flow- Boston” Award vendors, hawking everything from sausage to gets lumped together with Cafe, T.T. the Bear’s Place ing, it’s no surprise that 364 Hanover Street, Boston calamari, add their own flavor to the scene. Beantown, Cambridge stands and The Cantab Lounge. Harvard Square has been 617-367-1123 • mauriziosboston.com If you’re looking for belly laughs instead alone with all the sustaining dubbed “the book mecca of of a full belly, have a seat at the Improv qualities of an international the world.” Not everyone Harvard Square Asylum on Hanover Street to take in the city center. Throughout here is a student, though. A wild antics of this innovative comedy Kendall, Central, Inman, The grand cultural and walk along Massachusetts troupe. The Asylum offers off-the-cuff fun Harvard and Porter Squares, geographical nucleus of Avenue or JFK Street reveals and hilarity at its original North End venue. nearly 100,000 residents Cambridge houses six per- musicians, magicians and And if you haven’t had enough of good share a spirited range of forming arts theaters, three street performers, who add old Paul Revere, check out Paul Revere cultural influences. movie theaters, nine muse- color to the already bustling neighborhoods “BEST ITALIAN CUISINE. Tonight, which runs at the Old North ums, over 100 restaurants square. Diners flock to By far the best restaurant in the North End, Church during the summer and fall. and more than 400 retail Harvard Square for the food Central Square Mamma Maria might be the best in town.” Award-winning actor David Conner re- stores. History is every- as well, at favorites like Frommer’s Boston 2005 creates this legendary figure and tells the Central Square sets a swift where, including storied Henrietta’s Table, UpStairs three north square, boston (617) 523-0077 oft-untold stories of Revere’s upbringing pace as the social center for Harvard Yard, home of the on the Square and Rialto. ___ www.mammamaria.com and his midnight ride. Cambridge professionals. homonymous Harvard cont. on page 86 >> ___ 84 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 85

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T. CIS AV T. E. CAMBRIDGE N S WAL GDO T ST. EVERET KIRKLA IRV << cont. from page 85 LAN LAN Harvard SquareKIR HarvardLesley Square KER RD. ING KLA ND GDO University ST PL. ND ST DIV TON . Inman Square . N S INI ASHPL. R. . VISION HOUSEPeabody TY TE Q. ST Museum AVE HARVARD HarSQUAREvard ING Just north of Central Square, the quieter, . IRV UNCY Museum of Semitic more residential Inman SquareWAL pridesCHA CHA Natural History FRI Museum LAN SBI TER KER UNC PL. E. Emergency E . Y itself on its hometown WALsensibility, with a ST. CHA JARVIS Harvard PL. KER EyeglassSchool Repair TERUNC diverse working-class population, many of of Law . Y Sanders whom speak Portuguese. No elitism here: Cardullo’s One-hour Theatre the area’s only monument is the Cambridge . Memorial ST Eyeglasses & Exams Hall Rindge & Latin LEN Gourmet Shoppe School Fireman’s Mural. It is a place where food Sackler FOL MIT brings people together, whether at a range DELI • WINE • CHOCOLATE • TEA Contact Lenses Museum to

BRO of local ethnicCON marketsCORD AVE. or at restaurants Open seven days a week ADW CT. known for their bold flavors, like Chris Seven J.F.K. Street Fogg Art 6 Brattle St., Harvard Square Museum AY BRIDGE T. Harvard Square TROW . Schlesinger’s East Coast Grill. It does get Busch-Reisinger TER E S BRIDGE . (617) 491-8888 Museum TROW IGIrowdy over at ImprovBoston,. where an Cambridge, MA 02138 PL. PL www.cardullos.com CRA AVE BERK ERY acclaimedELEY comedy troupe spoofs sports, (617) 661-3676 ELL ELEY PL. GS Carpenter mysteryBERK and pop culture with jamboree Center for the TIN Cambridge Common ST. JOH 1 23Visual Arts music and general “joyfulNS chaos.” Local and HAS RD. up-and-coming national jazz acts entertain Sheraton Commader PHI Christ Old Burying music lovers at Ryles Jazz Club. LL Hotel IPS Church Ground PL First . Church Sanctuary Radcliffe Harvard Yard Inn at Theatre JAM Harvard Kendall Square Harvard ES Yard ST. Sq.Theater Kendall Square, home to MIT—with its Club Passim Zero conspicuous concrete dome, the scene of American 1 Arrow Theatre many famous pranks—looks CT. more like a Repertory to Central WILLARD Theatre high-brow business park than a neighbor- Square COT FUL ROW

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FLAG CT. KER Porter Square . TER T. DY E S The young, artistic crowd influences the BRUC ELM iver BAN PEABO ER stretch of Cambridge just beyond Harvard s R KS ST. N ST. rle . Square. Porter Square, on the outskirts of AKROST. ST Cha GHAM Mass. Ave., is full of eclectic second-hand HIN VE. neighborhoods 0 N A DAILY HAND PICKED SEAFOOD shops and home to restaurants like the TER 0 WES EXOTIC COCKTAILS Cambodian-French favorite Elephant Walk 0 UNBEATABLE PRICES and the Temple Bar. For a feel of the LAR avant-garde arts scene, head to the 1105 MASS AVE., HARVARD SQUARE, Z A E provocative Lizard Lounge for a poetry NDE CAMBRIDGE, (617) 661-2937 IDG BR jam or live music. RSO VE. ___ N A SPECIAL ADVERTISINGN B SECTION TER PANORAMA 86 WES RIDG

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BACK BAY

Once the swamp was gone, In Style NIGHT LIGHTS: The picturesque Back architect Arthur Gilman Bay skyline, appointed by the Hancock and drew up the plans to build Prudential towers, glitters after sunset. It’s the great American a largely uniform series of success story: rising from three- and four-story the humblest of beginnings brownstones. prominent feature is the PHOTOBYD ELLA H UFF to achieve prestige and Real estate is pricey in alphabetical cross streets, creative southwestern cuisine greatness. As such, this highly desired neigh- which intersect the main OLD AND NEW: Once your shopping is

222 Berkeley Street neighborhoods Copley Square is home Boston’s chic Back Bay may borhood—bordered on the residential thoroughfares complete (or you just Copley Square, Boston to some of the most 617.247.2225 well be the ultimate north by the Charles River, of Beacon Street, prominent architectur- need to rest and reload), American neighborhood— Arlington Street to Park Marlborough Street and al landmarks in the the street also boasts ice city, including the snakebites classically beautiful Square on the east, Commonwealth Avenue, as striking Hancock Tower cream shops like JP Licks brownstone residences, Columbus Avenue to well as the commercial (above). and Ben and Jerry’s, and angus ranch strip steak paired with block after Huntington Avenue, boulevards of Newbury fashionable restaurants block of high-end, glam- Dalton Street and the and Boylston streets. and bars like Sonsie and fire and spice pasta orous retail space, on a Massachusetts Turnpike on The Back Bay draws a Stephanie’s on Newbury, great for outdoor mango margaritas stretch of land that was the south, and Charlesgate high number of visitors dining. once a fetid marsh. East on the west—and it’s because of Newbury Street, The Back Bay is also home to some of fresh grilled salmon fillet Between 1857 and 1882, easy to understand why which has been referred to Boston’s architectural standouts—from what we know as today’s when one strolls past the as “the East Coast’s own the classic beauty of Trinity Church (built 20% food discount for parties of six to neighborhoods Back Bay was a tidewater gorgeous old brick build- Rodeo Drive.” If you’re itch- in 1877) and the Boston Public Library to twenty guests with this ad flat for the Charles River. ings, amply shaded by ing to rev up the charge Boston’s largest and most impressive Gradually it was filled in, trees, and within short cards, and names like modern skyscrapers, the 62-story John Just a few reasons to come visit us. the largest part of a project walking distance of pictur- Gucci, Cartier and Chanel Hancock Tower and the Prudential Center, www.cottonwoodboston.com that would more than esque Boston Common and get your heart racing, then which houses offices, restaurants and ___ double the size of the city. the Public Garden. Another this is the place for you. shops. *two hours free parking back bay garage after 5 p.m. ___ 88 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 89

FENWAY

“The Most Balls in Boston” 306 NEWBURY ST. 617-437-1010 WWW.FENWAYSPORTSZONE.COM • Boston’s Largest Selection of Autographed Sports Memorabilia • Extensive Collection of Souvenirs • Complete Auction Services for your Organization or Fund Raiser

Wentworth Institute of PLAY BALL: Historic Fenway Park, built Fen-tastic in 1912, serves as the home to the beloved Technology, Wheelock Boston Red Sox and is surrounded by a Perhaps no neighborhood College and Emmanuel multitude of sports bars and restaurants.

in Boston combines as College—it’s quite common URBAN OASIS: rants like Great Bay and many disparate resources to find yourself negotiating The garden courtyard Eastern Standard. for its residents as The crowds of backpack-wear- high wall in left field, at the Isabella Stewart The roar of the crowd Gardner Museum is Fenway. Named for the ing students on their way (affectionately dubbed “the the perfect place to at Red Sox games hasn’t Fens—the green parkland to class during the day- Green Monster”) and share relax and recharge overshadowed The neighborhoods that winds its way through time. And once darkness in the mystique of one of your batteries. Fenway’s status as the neighborhood—the falls, those same young- baseball’s most enduring Boston’s cultural mecca. area combines the natural sters are out in force to franchises. The world-renowned splendor of The Emerald explore the Fenway’s vital Kenmore Square itself is Museum of Fine Arts on Huntington Necklace with a heavy con- club scene—particularly undergoing a renaissance Avenue is the city’s premier destination for centration of culture, edu- on Lansdowne Street, of sorts today, with new viewing works of art from some of the cation and recreation. which offers revelers shops, hotels and restau- most famous artists of all time. The Two segments of the everything from dance rants having replaced the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum displays population are most often and music clubs to bil- raunchy, rock ’n’ roll the lifelong artistic passions and collec- found in the Fenway: col- liards and bowling. atmosphere of landmarks tions of its namesake philanthropist in a lege students and Red Sox Then of course, there’s from past decades like the beautiful building complete with central fans. With a large number Fenway Park. Opened in Kenmore Square Movie courtyard. And classical music lovers take neighborhoods of Boston’s institutions of 1912, it is the nation’s old- House and punk rock club abundant delight in the numerous per- higher learning massed in est active Major League The Rathskellar. Now the forming ensembles, including The Boston or near the Fenway— Baseball park, and it draws neighborhood is moving Conservatory, New England Conservatory including Northeastern millions of people every upscale with the presence and most prominently, The Boston University, Simmons year to cram into small of the glamorous Hotel Symphony Orchestra and its performance ___ College, Boston University, seats, marvel at the 37-foot Commonwealth and restau- venue, Symphony Hall. ___ A BOVE PHOTO BY D ELLA H UFF 90 PANORAMA JULY 3–16, 2006 91

TheGreatTastes ofSummeron BEACON HILL OurBeaconeaconHillill GardenPatio.

blance to its European SEAT OF POWER: The State House atop roots—narrow cobblestone Beacon Hill is the streets and gas-lit street- legislative heart of Massachusetts. lamps still abound. While other areas of Boston are loaded with trendy restau- rants and designer bou- SINCE 1981 1 tiques, visitors to Beacon Hill are more like- 71 /2 Charles Street, Beacon Hill 617.227.3524 of Boston, such as Harrison IT’S ALL UPHILL: Beacon Street near ly to find quaint antique shops along the intersection with Charles Street runs Heart of Gray Otis, William Scollay uphill along Boston Common towards the Charles Street and “local” restaurants, off the City and Charles Bulfinch, who State House. the beaten path but beloved for genera- were all property owners tions. One exception is the original place here. Beyond that, Beacon “where everybody knows your name”—the As much as early Hill has remained the seat other Revolution-era Bull & Finch Pub, used as the inspiration Bostonians struggled to of political power in luminaries), King’s Chapel for the classic sitcom “Cheers,” can be define themselves as mem- Boston. The Massachusetts and, on School Street, the found on Beacon Street and still draws in neighborhoods bers of a separate nation, State House was completed site of America’s first public throngs of tourists annually. arouse and not English citizens, at the top of Beacon Hill in school (in 1856, a statue of And for those who cherish the outdoors, remnants of the Old World’s 1798, and in 1874 it Benjamin Franklin was Beacon Hill shares the Boston Common with your culture, morality and, par- received the gold leaf finish erected near the site). One Downtown, offering visitors the opportunity enses ticularly, its physical archi- on its massive dome, which, spot on the Trail not to be to take advantage of a natural oasis upon celebrating 10 years tecture were bound to live thanks to diligent mainte- missed is the Old State which to throw a Frisbee, soak up some sun, of fine Persian cuisine on in Boston. Today, there’s nance and renovations over House, at the corner of ride a foot-pedaled Swan Boat through the nowhere in Boston that this the years, still shines bril- Washington and State Public Garden, or simply sit on a bench and still holds true more than liantly today. streets. In 1776, the watch the world go by, the way generations the historically upper-class It’s here that visitors to Declaration of of Bostonians have done before. environs of the Beacon the Freedom Trail begin Independence was first

neighborhoods Hill neighborhood. their travels—passing by publicly read in Boston Beacon Hill has tradi- historical landmarks such from the building’s east tionally been the home of as Park Street Church, the balcony, and the building

leaders—Boston’s first Old Granary Burying overlooks the site of the ® 97 MT. VERNON ST., BEACON HILL 617.720.5511 • LALAROKH.COM mayor, John Phillips, lived Ground (final resting place Boston Massacre in 1770. FULL SPIRITS MENU here, as well as instrumen- of John Hancock, Paul Physically, the neighbor- PRIVATE ROOMS NOW AVAILABLE FOR HOLIDAY PARTIES ___ tal figures in the formation Revere, Samuel Adams and hood still bears resem- ___ 92 PANORAMA s JULY 3–16, 2006 93

5questions with… David Mugar by Josh B. Wardrop People ore than three decades ago, local philanthropist David Mugar from“ across Mtook it upon himself to give Boston some July 4th festivities befit- ting its patriotic status. Today, the nationally-televised extravaganza— the country featuring the Boston Pops and an eye-popping fireworks display above the Charles River Esplanade—is one of the nation’s biggest birthday come for the celebrations. Refer to story, page 21. party.” Q: Do you have pleasant Boston skyline as a back- Q: You haven’t had a free childhood Fourth of July drop. But get there early! July 4th in years. Anything memories? you miss out on doing? A: AbsolutelyAbsolutely.. They’rThey’ree proba- Q: What sets Boston’Boston’ss A: I’ve lived in Cotuit (on bly the same as most fami- July 4th fireworks apart Cape Cod) for 15 years, and lies…backyard barbecues from the rest of the they have a wonderful and town fireworks. It’s really nation? parade that, to my great one of our moremore perfect holi- A: ApartApart from the Pops play- regret,regret, I’ve never seen. If I days, because it’sit’s trulytruly for ing The 1812 OvertureOverture to live could figurefigure out how to everybody. Howitzers and church bells? watch that parade and still Boston is just such a great oversee the Boston fire-e- Q: What’What’ss the highlight historic citycity,, and people frfromom works, that would be a of the actual firfireworkseworks acracrossoss the countrcountryy come for perperfectfect dayday.. display for you? the party.party. It’sIt’s always a greatgreat A: My favorite firfireworkework is the time to be herhere.e. weeping willow. It’s almost always gold, and it explodes up high then gently cascades down for a good 10–12 seconds. WeWe usually choreographchoreograph it to particularlyparticularly sentimental music.

Q: WherWhere’se’s the best vantage points to watch the fireworks? A: People staying in the high- rise hotels prprobablyobably have the best view in the city. If you come to the Esplanade, the Mass. Ave. Bridge is an excellent viewing ararea,ea, while the Cambridge side of the ___ river offers a great view of the BACKGROUND PHOTO BY S TU ROSNER 94 PANORAMA MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON

Captivated by the City of Light

They were all entranced by Paris. Sargent, Cassatt, Homer, Whistler, and dozens of other American artists. They came to learn, to paint, to prove themselves. What they experienced changed their lives and their work. What they brought home changed American art.

June 25– September 24, 2006

For tickets: 866-319-4658 or www.mfa.org

Sponsored by Television media sponsor is

John Singer Sargent, Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau) (detail), 1883–84. Oil on canvas. Lent by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Arthur Hoppock Hearn Fund, 1916. © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Photo 1997.