ARAGÓN 413 de Ordesa y Monte Perdido Parque Nacional San Juan de la Peña Alquézar Valle de Echo POP: 1.23 MILLION POP:

Daroca Albarracín Valle de Ansó ( p445 ) LOW 17°C AVE SUMMER TEMP: HIGH 31°C, SUMMER TEMP: AVE ( p428 ), ( p428 ), Parque Parque

( p440 ) (ham) San Juan de la Peña Albarracín Ansó jamón Alquézar and ’s ( p415 ) buzzing streets and and ) buzzing streets p415 ’s ( ( p443 ) Echo ( p442 ) and Teruel Zaragoza bars, with energy bars, with energy best valleys of of esque monastery ( p439 ) Perdido Nacional de Ordesa y Monte ) in the Pyrenees p433 ( old towns such as AREA: 47, 720 SQ KM perfection of the Savour the wafer-thin Go quietly through the beautiful Pyrenean Roman- on the glories of the Meditate Walk on the wild side in the Hit Hit highway to fabulous off the beaten Veer

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Today, you take your pick of Aragón’s many gifts. The great mountains of the north for great cater The Today, you take pick of Aragón’s many gifts. your the seams with sound and fury bursts at main city, Zaragoza, For an urban fix, the region’s south, Further and forlorn plateaus. depressions Aragón consists mainly of treeless Central

 North to south, the land of Aragón rings the changes, from the awesome snow-plastered North from the awesome snow-plastered rings the changes, the land of Aragón to south, two Spanish extremes Between these Teruel. to the arid mesas of mountains of the Pyrenees is heart pinned at the very at times, dull landscape; but of the region modest, even is a more while a host of smaller towns, stone-walled bustling city of Zaragoza, villages, historic the great or footnote its chapter has written Each one castles pepper the landscape. and monasteries France, Navarra, Catalonia, whose neighbours are of Aragón, a region in the dramatic history heartland; and the Castilian gate. all, at one time or another, enemies at the Valencia villages, skiers a walkers’ paradise of canyons, pretty their foothills are and mountaineers while Romanesque architecture. with some outstanding monasteries lonely castles and venerable but the city is big-hearted and hides an as- reeling; the most streetwise even and may leave monumental buildings and churches. tonishing array of Roman ruins beneath its sombre mysterious sprinkled with picturesque, mountain regions, other, thinly populated you reach of the masterpieces among biggest town, are the south’s towers of Teruel, The villages. Spanish Mudéjar architecture. A r a g ó n lonelyplanet.com 412 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © ὈὈ N232 A68 ARAGÓN 414

Ordizia To Vitoria(30km)

(12km) To Logroño Arcos Los (13km) To Soria (120km) To Guadalajara

CASTILLA-LA CASTILLA YLEÓN

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N122 de Piedra Arga (14km)

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Ro de-Luchon Arreau oet Po Bagnères- Castejón N240 de Sos N123 Segre m To Vielha (Lérida) (2km) N230 Barcelona Cerler neto (145km) (136km) Andorra m A139 To To N230 rocksandrolls– (Saragossa) Zaragoza 200m pop 597,472/elevation lonelyplanet.com its former wallsmarked byAvenida deCésar hotels andrestaurants, liessouthof RíoEbro, city’s historicmonuments andmanyof its The core with thebulkof the of oldZaragoza, ORIENTATION ment andmodernisation. oneofbeen sometimesuncontrolleddevelop- moreof recent town).Zaragoza’s storyhas General it’snorth Franco in1928(stilluse, here academywasestablished military under under Nationalistcontrol.Thecountry’s main quicklyfell time toorganise andZaragoza the civilwarbegan,Republicanshadno tradeunionism,butin1936,when militant late inthe19thcenturymadeitacentre of itcapitulatedthough in1809.Industrialgrowth resistance totheNapoleonicsiege,stiff al- immediately becameitscapital. expanding Christiankingdomof Aragón,and rulerof (Battler), the Alfonso I‘ElBatallador’ Andalus’ frontierterritories. In1118itfell to ofwas capital theUpper , oneof Al- banks of RíoEbro. InMuslimtimesZaragoza theknownworldto theinland brought traffic riverto theprosperousRomancitywhose As manyas25,000peoplemigrated14 BC. isderived) in (fromwhich ‘Zaragoza’ gusta The Romansfoundedthecolonyof Caesarau- HISTORY more foreven set partying. seems Zaragoza and ambitiousbuildingprogrammesplanned, ders happilyhere 2008looming, andwithExpo bars, clubsandstylish restaurants rubshoul- fine artandarchitecture, anddozens of lively traditional identity.Intriguingarchaeology, with historicbuildingsandacolourful friendly Spanish streetsand traffic-bound isamore people- encircling massof functionalmodernbuildings Yetseams. enshrined attheheartof thecity’s Theresulternisation. isacitybursting atthe ’s past200years of often agonisingmod- result of rural-urbandriftof themostintense make upover halfof Aragón’spopulation,the can rockwiththebestof them as well.They great cityonthebanksof themighty Río Ebro Thefeisty citizensofthat’s justthetraffic. this ZARAGOZA ZARAGOZA Centuries later Zaragoza putupunusually later Zaragoza Centuries ZARAGOZA••History casco (oldtown)crammed Excellent informationontheAragónregion. h Avenidawww.turismodeAragon.com; deCésarAugusto25; h English- andFrench-language novels. mapsandguidebooks,aswellsome ofwalking selection shophasanexcellent Independencia 22)Thiswell-stocked Torreón delaZuda Torreón Plaza delPilar de Aragón deTurismo Oficina Delicias. fices, plusabranch Intermodal intheEstación hastwohelpfulcentraltouristof- Zaragoza Information Tourist postoffice Main Post Hospital ClínicoUniversitario Services Medical Hellespontika Laundry Conecta-T Access Internet General Librería Bookshops INFORMATION tion isabout2kmwestof theoldcentre. eateries lietoeithersideof thePaseo. Busy lanesandstreets withplentyof bars and atPlazadeEspaña. de laIndependenciameet the oldtownwhere ElCosoandthewidePaseo great ‘T-junction’ of themoderncityissouthof heartisknownasElTubo.alleys whose The way southwardstoalabyrinth of lanesand great churches,dominated gives byZaragoza’s de SanJuanBosco15) tower forpanoramic views(free). tower bytheRomanwalls. Climbthe century Mudéjar Easter-Dec) Asubsidiary cityinformationofficeina15th- XII; 10am-2pmSat) Mon-Fri, load€10; dry per3kg €1.60; mobile chargepointandfaxing. very well-organisedfacilitywithcheapinternationalcalls, black glasscube.Thisisthecityinformationoffice. .com; From theriverbanks, thevastPlazadelPilar, tothewestandElCososouth. Augusto The Estación Intermodal Deliciastrainsta- The Estación h 9am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, from10amSat&Sun) 9am-2pm &5-8pmMon-Fri, 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pmSat) 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, h h 10am-2pm &4.30-8pm 7Jan-Easter,10am-8pm 10am-8pm) Opposite the basilica in a futuristic 10am-8pm) Oppositethebasilicainafuturistic 10am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pmSat&Sun)A 10am-11pm Mon-Fri, ( % ( ( 976 20 59 79; Murallas Romanas4;perhr 976 205979;Murallas % % (Paseo delaIndependencia33; ( % h ( 976 49 55 54; Plaza Ariño 1;wash& 976 495554;PlazaAriño 976 393537;www.turismozaragoza % 976 224483;Paseo dela 9.30am-1.30pm &4.30-8.30pm 976 20 12 00; Glorieta dePío 976 201200;Glorieta ( ( % % 976 357501;Calle 902 477000;

415 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN monuments. flanked buildingsandhistoric byimportant two squares forma500mopenspaceandare tinuation, PlazadelaSeo. Together, these Ebro, isPlazadelPilaranditseastwardcon- oldtown,justsouthof RíoIn Zaragoza’s Plaza delPilar &PlazadelaSeo SIGHTS 416 Madrid (325km) Casablanca (3.5km); To Camping (170km) To Pamploa

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r o by Felipe Sánchez yHerrera andgreatly modi- ( enormous the storybehindZaragoza’s ries of ever-more-grandiose churches. Thisis around theremaining pillar,followedbyase- lonelyplanet.com have air-kissed. cheek, which popes even polished andseamed riving attimes)lineuptobrush lipswithits of people(withbusloads of thefaithfular- the chapel’s outer westside. Asteady stream oval-shaped portionof the insidetheeastendofSanta, thebasilica. Atiny the bestview. up tothetopof thenorthtower( right ) for of yourselves Get rugged Byzantineeffect. green, yellowandwhite tiles,creating akind inchunkydomes, each blue, oneencased main domelordsitover aflockof 10mini- transcends thegloomyinterior. Asplendid often buttheroofscape stillunderscaffolding; finished untiltheearly20thcenturyandare of Ventura Rodríguez.Thetowers were not fied inthe18thcenturybyheavier hand % SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Patio dela Infanta...... Caesaraugusta...... Museo delTeatrode Museo delPuertoFluvial...... Caesaraugusta...... Museo delForode Museo deZaragoza...... Museo deTapices...... (see19) Museo dePabloGargallo...... Museo delasTermasPúblicas.. Museo CamónAznar...... La Seo...... La Lonja...... Iglesia deSantaEngracia...... Iglesia deSanPablo...... Iglesia deSanMiguel...... Iglesia deSanGil...... Iglesia deLaMagdalena...... Zaragoza...... Centro deHistoria Pilar...... Basílica deNuestraSeñoradel Aljafería...... Office...... Torreón delaZudaTourist Plaza delPilarTouristOffice...... Oficina deTurismoAragón.... Main PostOffice...... Librería General...... Hospital ClínicoUniversitario...... Hellespontika...... Montañismo...... Federación Aragonesade Conecta-T...... The legendary 976 397497; h ZARAGOZA••Sights 6.45am-9pm) pilar is hidden in the Capilla ishiddenintheCapilla 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 , designedin1681 pilar D1 D2 C4 C2 D2 D2 D2 D1 C4 C3 D3 C2 D2 D3 C4 D2 C1 B3 C1 D1 C3 C3 C3 A4 D2 C3 C1 is exposed on isexposed EATING SLEEPING Taberna DonãCasta...... Perrexita...... Azoque...... Mariscos yChacinas La Miguería...... La Mejillonería...... La Calzorras...... Gran TabernaPantagruel...... Gran CafédeZaragoza...... El RincónCriollo...... El CalamarBravo...... (see51) Churrería LaFama...... Churrasco...... Cervecería Marpy...... Casa VitorinosII...... (see42) Casa Juanico...... Casa Domino...... Pensión LaPeña...... Pensión Holgado...... Hotel VíaRomana...... Hotel Tibur...... Hotel Sauce...... Hotel SanJorge...... Hotel RioArga...... Hotel LasTorres...... Hotel Inca...... Hotel ElPríncipe...... Hostal Plaza...... Hostal Navarra...... Hostal ElDescanso...... Gracián...... Albergue JuvenilBaltasar basilica Thu) where youclimbsomesteps andafinalsteep you mostof thewayupnorthtowerfrom where you ring for service. where you ring forservice. turntoreachviews atevery liftdoor, asecond city. Followthemainstairs downforchanging toasuperbviewpointoverspiral staircase the completed. bring somewelcomeilluminationwhen currently being refurbished andshould Virgen. Dulledbyage itis andpoorlight the northaisle,outsideSacristíadela (Mary, of Queen Martyrs) inacupolaabove choir. Goyapainted attheouter westwallofment. Itstands the century alabaster byDamiánFor- altarpiece more cynical. the faithful:typicalCzech the munitionssaid war. Theyfailedtoexplode. Amiraclesaid that were lobbed atElPilarduringthecivil are Santa twowickedlyCapilla slimshells The basilica’sfinestartworkisa16th- A , operated byagenial attendant, whisks Hung fromthenortheastcolumnof the lift lift 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 (admission €1.50; C2 B3 D1 D2 D2 D2 C2 C1 C1 C1 D1 D2 D2 A4 C2 C3 C3 C2 C3 D2 D3 C2 D3 C1 C4 D3 C2 D3 Municipal Bus51toTrain Viaca ViajesBusStation...... Therpasa BusStation...... Tezasa BusStation...... Sanguesa BusStop...... Samar BuilBusStation...... Station...... Fuendetodos BusStop...... Station...... Automóviles ZaragozaBus Autobuses CondaBusStation... Airport Bus...... Agreda Automóvil...... Abasa &ÁgredaAutómovil...... Roxy ClubZgz...... Oasis...... La CasadelLoco...... Kitsch ExperimentalClub...... Filmoteca deZaragoza...... El CantordeJazz...... Y Que...... Rock &BluesCafé...... Paradys...... Novo...... Mick Havanna...... La Cucaracha...... Exo...... Chastón...... Café Praga...... Bar CortoMaltés...... (see59) TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING La Reinadelos Mártires h 9.30am-2pm &4-6pmSat- 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56

417

C3 D2 B5 D2 B4 B3 C2 B3 C3 C3 C1 C3 C2 C2 B3 C4 B5 B3 B3 C4 B3 B4 A3 C4 B3 B4 C4 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN well below ground level. well belowgroundlevel. €2; tectural stylesfrom Romanesque to baroque. centuries, displaysafabulous spread of archi- eastern end. 4-6pm Sat,10am-noon SunOct-Mar) 10am-1pm & 10am-2pm&4-6pmTue-Fri, & SunApr-Sep, h as is the deSanSalvador,alsoknown Catedral Dominating theeastern endof PlazadelPilar LA SEO and audioguidesare available. the hourinSpanish, breathes life intothings An interesting audiovisual show,presented on onstrate theRomans’genius forengineering. tochannelpipes used water tothecitydem- ofabout AD15are lead ondisplay.Sections and of artefacts14BC datingfrombetween cloaca ta’s reconstruction of partof Roman Caesaraugus- istheentrancetoanexcellent Plaza delaSeo The ratheroutof placetrapezoid buildingon MUSEO DELFORODECAESARAUGUSTA and otherhistoricalpersonages. lions onitsexterior depictkingsof Aragón as atradingexchange. Thecoloured medal- basilica, wasconstructed inthe16thcentury buildingeastofstyle building,thesecond the plain butfinelyproportionedRenaissance- free; Now an LA LONJA 418 The remains of shops,agreat porticoes, h La Seo, built between the 12thand17th builtbetween Seo, La La Seo prospered, andArbuésisnowamuch-revered saint. altar. Ironically,thisincreased thepublic’staste forburning flesh. The flamesrose,theInquisition nearly twoyears,untilinSeptember 1485Arbuéswasassassinated infrontofthecathedral’s Public repugnance attheautos-da-féwassofiercethatInquisitionstalledinAragónfor later GasparJuglerdiedundersuspiciouscircumstances;somebelieve thathewaspoisoned. managed topreach enoughbrimstonetocondemntwomenagrislydeathbyfire. Afew days alleged heretics. afew Nottobeoutdone,Arbuésstagedasecondauto-da-fé weekslater and place inthecathedral,butresulted inthebloodlessreconciliation tothefaithofahandful of on 10MayofthatyearJuglerofficiated (trial byfire) atthefirstauto-da-fé inAragón.Ittook the youngCanon ofZaragoza’s cathedral,Pedro Arbués. and Bothmen couldsmellthesmoke also theboxed text, p202 ) appointed twoDominicansashislocalinquisitors, GasparJuglerand nascent Spanish InquisitionintoAragón.Their chiefhoncho Fray TómasdeTorquemada(see In 1484 Fernando and Isabel, the Catholic Monarchs(Los ReyesCatólicos), begantoextend the BURNING FAITH 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm&4-7pmSat 10am-2pm &4-7pmTue-Fri, h forum 10am-2pm &5-8pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) ZARAGOZA ••Sights (sewer) system, andalimited (sewer) collection 10am-2pm &5-9pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) ( exhibition hall % ( % 976 29 12 38; Plaza de la Seo; admission €2; 976 291238;PlazadelaSeo; 976 39 97 52; Plaza de la Seo 2;admission 976 399752;PlazadelaSeo ( % 976 397239;admission . Entryisatthe , now , this & 5-8pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) 39 3157;PlazadeSanBruno 8;admission€2; help visitors reconstruct theedifice’sformer impressive, great have madeto efforts been theruinsaren’t2003. Although particularly 2pm &4-6pmor7pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) chrome alabaster. inpoly- altarpiece and the15th-centuryhigh façadeofaissance thecentralChristChapel gloomoffoggy StMark’s totheglorious Ren- stonework andringthechanges fromthe terns. Allthechapels are framedbybeautiful decoration ineye-pleasinggeometric pat- classic darkbrickwork andcolourfulceramic façade isa Mudéjar masterpiece, deploying temple of theRomanforum).Thenorthwest main mosque(which inturnstooduponthe onthesite ofIt stands IslamicZaragoza’s Roman city’s river-port There’s installations. a is theabsorbing Seo Just acrossPlaza de SanBrunofromLa RomanRemains Other thetheatrethrough itself. The exhibitculminates withaboardwalktour for times). Saturday only;consultthemuseum virtual performanceonthestage (Fridayand projectionssplendour, includingevening of a €3; seum theatre are thefocusof thisinteresting Roman site in1972, theruinsof Zaragoza’s Discovered duringtheexcavation of abuilding delTeatroMuseo deCaesaraugusta and French tapestries. collection of 14th-to17th-centuryFlemish La Seo’s Seo’s La h ( 10am-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) % 976 205088;CalledeSanJorge12;admission Museo deTapicesMuseo Museo del Puerto Fluvial delPuerto Museo which displaysthe (admission €2; lonelyplanet.com , openedin h hasalarge 10am-2pm h ( % 10am- mu- 976 the oldRomanbaths. h ( half-hour.every The quaint butenjoyableaudiovisual programme lonelyplanet.com (Throne Room). ceilings, especially thatof the someexquisitecontains Mudéjarcoffered by wayof riposte totheMuslim finerybelow, Monarchs’Catholic ers inthe12thto14thcenturies,then tothe the of examples of Islamicart. and pleasinglysimplecupolaare impressive motifs, Arabicinscriptionsfromthe Quran direction of Mecca). floral Thefinely chiselled into its doorwayleading nificent horseshoe-arched octagonal Also openingoff thenorthernporch isasmall, its delicate plaster andalabaster wallcarvings. the throneroom,nowwithreproductions of The innermosthallatthenorthernendwas geometric mastery of Islamicarchitecture. woven arches typicalof theopulenceand to northandsouthbytheexquisite inter- the Islamicpalace. Here youare confronted de SantaIsabel the introductory courtyardintoasecond, here.de Aragón,wasestablished 1987 Aragón’sregional parliament,theCortes to 1990srestoration wascarriedout,andin when itwasallowedtodecay.Fromthe1940s andbarracks, asahospital the Aljafería served and tackedIsabel, ontheirownpalace. Later the 1490s Monarchs,Catholic Fernando za’s Christianrulers madealterations, andin 11th century.Fromthe12thcenturyZarago- Muslimrulers, chiefly inthe for Zaragoza’s from PlazadeEspaña. del Pilarora10-minute rideonbus32or36 noisywalkwestfromPlaza It’s ahalf-hour’s Granada’s AlhambraorCórdoba’sMezquita. it’snotintheleagueofAndalucía, though country’s finestIslamic-eraedificeoutside dailyJul&Aug) Apr-Jun4.30-8pm Fri-Wed &Sep-Oct, 10am-2pmSat-Wed, &SatNov-Mar, 4-6.30pm Mon-Wed&Fri sioner/under 12yr€3/1/free, Sunfree; ( Islamic Spainmakes itsmarkatthe Aljafería % % Moving rooms upstairs, you passthrough Inside themaingate, crosstheratherdull The Aljafería wasbuiltasapleasure palace 10am-2pm &5-8pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) 976 297279;CalleSanJuanyPedro 3-7;admission€2; 976 289684;CalledelosDiputados;adult/student&pen- Palacio Mudéjar mihrab oratorio , oncethecentralcourtyardof (prayerniche indicatingthe ZARAGOZA••Sights (prayerroom),withamag- , addedbyChristianrul- palace Museo delasTermasMuseo Públicas , which, as though , which, asthough h 10am-2pm Sat-Wed, Salón delTrono houses houses Aljafería , the Patio artistic sonafter Goya. (1881–1934), probablyAragón’smost gifted 10am-2pm Sun) San Agustín 2; adult/child€3.25/free; museum neoclassical façaderemains) isthesite of this The oldconvent of SanAgustín (onlythe CENTRO DEHISTORIAZARAGOZA 10am-2pm Sun) Felipe 3;admissionfree; representative Within the17th-centuryPalacio Argillo isa MUSEO DEPABLO GARGALLO lovely Plateresque courtyard. collection of Goyapaintings,displayedina 11am-2pm&6-9pmSat) Fri, Loyola 16;admissionfree; This PATIO DELAINFANTA mansion. sance storeys of thePalacio de los Pardo, aRenais- tributed to El Greco. Itspreads over thethree the topfloor)andhalfadozenpaintingsat- ages features aroomof Goya etchings (on 23;admission€1,IDrequired; y Mina This eclectic MUSEO CAMÓN AZNAR art, aswelladozenGoyapaintings. collectionoftimes, andanimportant Gothic displays artefacts fromprehistoric toMuslim sion free; museum toarchaeologyDevoted andfinearts,the MUSEO DEZARAGOZA Museums early Christianmartyrs. of andotherZaragozan theeponymoussaint an underground thebones cryptcontaining de SantaEngracia The at theirbestwhenfloodlitnight. 14th- and15th-centuryMudéjartowers – 16th-century 14th-century Mudéjartowerandanearly- de SanPablo deAra; &Miguel worth alook.The churches are otherZaragoza wellSeveral Churches San Miguel Tue-Sat, 11am-2pmSun) Forment. The exhibition h (Zaragoza History Centre; (Zaragoza History ( % and 10am-2pm &5-8pmTue-Sat, 10am-2pmSun) . Each of exhibitrooms . Each theeight of sculptures by Pablo Gargallo 976 222181;PlazadelosSitios6;admis- collection retablo Iglesia deLaMagdalena display Iglesia deSanGil ( , builtinthe16th-century,has % of the Spanish artthrough 976 7676;CalleSanIgnaciode h Iglesia deSanPablo h (altarpiece) byDamián (altarpiece) ( ( istheIbercaja bank’s h % % 10am-2pm &5-9pmTue-Sat, 8.30am-2.30pm &6-9pmMon- 9am-1pm) 976 397328;CalledeEspoz 976 724923;PlazadeSan % h h alsoboastfine 976 205640;Plaza 10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 9am-2pm &6-9pm hasadelicate , Iglesia de (cnr Calles Iglesia

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city ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN €31/39) 420 a smallcafé. sized rooms atthisfriendly placethatalsohas mainly good-value forthesimplebutdecent- Holgado. Plaza deEspañatodelPortillo, opposite frequently fromthejunctionof ElCosoand minutes) runs has vacancies.Bus22(€1,eight tended roomsonthree floors anditusually Aljafería. There are plentyof simple,well- 1km fromPlazadeEspañaand near the €17.70/29.90) Conde deAranda126;s/d€27.90/39.15,withoutbathroom but fillsupquickly. rooms It’s family-runandhas20clean,bright faces apretty plazaneartheRomantheatre. without bathroom€14/24) Tubo, oraquickrideonbus2238. room for50inquads.It’sa2kmhike fromEl during theschool term, thisHIhostel has €8.60/11.55) 92; FrancoyLópez4;HIIDunder26yr/otherinclbreakfast BaltasarGracián Juvenil Albergue Budget block-booked. fairs, duringwhich centralhotels are often stages quite anumberof trade 2008, Zaragoza site beingplanned.Intherun-uptoExpo likely tocontinueinspiteseems of of talk a ground operatinginthearea, asituationthat At thetimeof writing,there wasnocamping SLEEPING andwine. grilled sausage Jorge, northof theEbro,forconcerts,games, forParque head populace. Thousands Tio zans celebrate delPilar Nuestra Señora peakingon12October, the otherwise) ofa week full-oncelebrations(religious and biggest isthe event Zaragoza’s FESTIVALS &EVENTS Coso orbus30atPlazadeEspaña. Takedevelopment. bus22goingeastalongEl fourkey oftransformation through phases its physical ries of modelsdepictingZaragoza’s celebrations. Ofparticularinterest isase- itage, fromtradeandtransporttopopular onadifferentfocuses aspectof thecity’sher- the 1838oustingof troopsbyafeisty Carlist Pensión Holgado Hostal ElDescanso Hotel SanJorge Hotel Pricesgoupand downabitbutare ZARAGOZA ••Festivals &Events Doublingasastudentresidence An excellentbudget optionabout Cincomarzada ( % ( Thisdecentbudget choice % ( % 976 39 74 62; Calle Mayor 4; s/d 976 397462;CalleMayor . On5March, Zarago- 976 291741;SanLorenzo 2;s/d 976 432074;Calledel , commemorating Fiestas delPilar ( % 976 3066 Día de , small butadequate. directly outontoPlazadelPilar. Singlesare andneatlytrimmedroomslook the bright of space. have minibarson PlazadelaSeo, andplenty hotel, roomsatthispleasant right standard are comfyroomshere. therelocation, yetidealforallcentralneeds, s/d €44/59) .es; Contamina20;s/d€37/54; tiago.com; PlazadelPilar 14;s/d€35/50; Calle de Espoz y Mina 33;s/d€48/91; Calle deEspozyMina Spanish; Plaza de la Seo 2;s/d€61/70; Spanish; PlazadelaSeo up slightly forfairlyordinaryroomshere.up slightly without bathroom€12/24) Jaime I54-56;s/d€57.80/82.40) bookings are forweeknights. advisable value, smallhotel hasmodernbutcosyrooms; proximately €10perday. Most of placesoffer these parkingforap- &TopEnd Midrange Hostal Navarra Pensión LaPeña fairly basicfacilitiesinorneartheoldcity: cheese, among other tantalising spreads). among othertantalising cheese, (toasted baguette slicestopped withCabrales Domino offerswhile Casa hamsand Vitorinos IIhave bar-top treats inplenty, Marpy andCasa Marta,de Santa Cervecería Onthe cosy Plaza onawarmevening. beer for lunchtime snackingorcoolingoff with a harboursomegreat bars tapas –ideal Seo La The narrowstreets andsmallplazassouth of Tapas EATING Inca Hotel VíaRomana Hotel centre: season. dropbyhalfoutsidethehigh Rates restaurantwith theswishin-house andbar. moderncomfortstogo hotel hasfairly sleek WesternJust southof PlazadelPilar,this Best CalleSantiago12;s/d€110/128; -principe.com; de Paúl 30;s/d€27/35) 33; s/d€141.25/160.50; Hotel Rio Arga Rio Hotel Hotel LasTorres Hotel Hotel Sauce Hotel Hotel ElPríncipe Hotel Other decent,reasonably pricedplaceswith Hotel TiburHotel Hostal Plaza Other well-equippedlodgingsinthecity Agreat locationontheplazamakes ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( ( 976 39 00 91; Calle de la Manifestación 976 390091;CalledelaManifestación ( % ( % % ( % ( % ( % 976 2000;www.hoteltibur.com in % ( 976 205050;www.hotelsauce.com; 976 291684;CalledeSanVicente % 976 294830;www.hostalplaza-san pa ( 976 299089;Cinegio3;s/d % 976 399065;www.hotelrioarga 976 398215;CalledeDon 976 394250;PlazadelPilar 11; 976 294101;www.hotel-el pai ) pa p lonelyplanet.com p ) Thisgood- ) In aquiet ) Business- ) pai Someof montados ) with somedeliciouspâté.AroundElTubo, companying trees intheplaza, andfountain 25; 3churros€1.50) €3.80, salads€7) ter of dangling flavour tothisfinerestaurant where aclus- of seafood greet you. Relish the selection of greetof you.Relishtheselection seafood for around€4. has tempting larger-than-tapas specialities lonelyplanet.com 21; meals€9.50-19; heart of landlocked Zaragoza. and gamba blanca 37; dishes€7-18) Mexico. come fromVenezuela, Colombia, Peru and (a meatystew wrappedinbananaleaves) tle place. Treats, such asfajitas and specialities are thethinginthisfunkylit- mains €6; snack. evening pineapple) atthispopularplace;idealforan and in olive egg oil,andtoppedwithsausage, fix foodsuch as breakfast. isagoodplaceformorningcoffee or salon from €2.50) and chocolate togowithmorningcoffee. fresh deAlfonso1andisagoodspotfor Calle around €7/8.50indoors/outdoors. fare, with Pilar facingthebasilicathatoffer ordinary There are well-placed cafésalongPlazadel &Restaurants Cafés (€2.30) nightly. Mejillonería buckets through of goes mussels out thefriedsquidsandwiches(€2.30)andLa pendencia, where Bravo churns ElCalamar eastof deZurita Paseooff Calle delaInde- more Moneva, snackingoptionscramCalle 6; Taberna DoñaCasta pheric includingtheatmos- open untilmidnight), the southernendof Heroísmo Calle (most h There’s anotherstringof bars tapas towards La Calzorras Mariscos yChacinasAzoque Mariscos deZaragoza Gran Café Casa Juanico Casa Criollo El Rincón La Miguería LaFamaChurrería pulpo Gallego Tue-Sun) churros Gran Taberna Pantagruel h This long-established andstillelegant This long-established menús deldía 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) does filling, simple tapas. Still filling,simpletapas. does There’s quick- filling Aragonese There’s Andalucían apleasant ( (long, deep-fried doughnuts) (long,deep-fried doughnuts) (Plaza deSanPedro Nolasco) % (white shrimps), ( % La Fama La istucked awayoff a ZARAGOZA••Drinking jamóns migas ( 976 200736;CalleEstébanes4;migas % 976 397252; PlazadelaSantaCruz ( (Galicianoctopus) atthe ) % ( Tapas also tempt atthis % 976 399286;AntonioAgustín 1; (breadcrumbs drenched (Calle deAlfonsoI25;breakfast 976 205852;CalleEstébanes 976 393754;CallePrudencio andabar-top spread (daily set menus)for (dailyset ( % South American (Calle Heroísmo35) 976 22 03 20; Azoque 976 220320;Azoque ostras Withac- hallacas (oysters) , relaxed littlebar playingrecorded jazz. 5pm) 13) set thetoneformusicandstyle ofset this age tothelikes of JimiHendrix themighty postmidnight action. postmidnight livelyvoured studentcrowd for byZaragoza’s of nicelygrubby androwdydisco-pubsfa- caracha midweek. favourite,long-standing thatstages live gigs main bar. bar orenjoytheoccasionallive musicinthe the plazaterrace, relax quietlyintheupper landscapes;youcancoolnicelyon several of andcomfyseating. subtlelighting another smooth,easy-listening barwithlots Spanish rock. friendly moodtogowiththebackground smart, buteasy-going, bar. There’s agreat or asshinythemodernistdécoratthis andcoolasthebarstaff tobeassleek need day andnight. of café-bars andrestaurants keeps thingslively area inthenewerpartof townwhere astring buzzroundthePlazadelCarmen a satisfying of variedbars fromwhich tochoose. There’s stone’s throwfromPlazadelPilar,have plenty Mayor, deEspozyMinaandCalle a Calle DRINKING natural sauce). classic dishessuchas ernos restaurant thatsprinklesafew the smartlandscapeof this stylish Basque 43; mains€12.50-20) squid andothertreats). is theday’s aswell.Agoodbet decent fishandseafood there’s(Iberian ham)aspeciality,although placewith this long-established menú €14,mains€19; among agoodwinelist. aniceMontesierra Crianza for€9.80, does squid) orahefty thing frombest excellent placewhere youcanenjoyevery- One of Zaragoza’s favourites. Oneof Pragahas Zaragoza’s Novo Exo Perrexita Churrasco Bar Corto Maltés Bar Corto Rock &BluesCafé Praga Café Rock ’n’rollparaphernaliaandhom- (tapas) alongthebarwhileyouconsider (tapas) ( % (Calle delTemple 25) ( % 609 639811;PlazadelCarmen11) ( ( % 616 48 74 24; Calle Azoque 64) 616 487424;CalleAzoque % centros ( % 976 22 91 60; Calle de Francisco Vitoria 19; 976 229160;CalledeFranciscoVitoria 976 43 83 16; Calle de Ramón yCajal 976 438316;CalledeRamón jamón Dream of coolerclimesin a 976 200251;PlazadelaSantaCruz chuletón (Calle delTemple 23) It’smeateaters’ heaven at (shared platters of ham, ) (Cuatro deAgosto 5-7; bacalao ypil Chastón (ham), are amongastring (T-bone steak). It (Plaza Ariño 1) (Plaza Ariño chipirones pintxos mod- jamón Ibérico and Youdon’t Thisis (codin h La Cu-

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421 from ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN time. where they’re stillshakin’ wellpastbreakfast language (subtitledinSpanish). few cinemasshowingfilmsintheiroriginal place, frequented byamature crowd. Carlos 4;screenings €2; extravaganzas. a bitof includingdragqueen anythinggoes, as adiscowithgoodtechno butwith house, a varietytheatre. It’scurrently goingstrong the oldcentre, beganlife Oasis longagoas El Católico 70; cover incl drink €8; El Católico70;coverincldrink Experimental Club Experimental h de Mallorca. furt most days.AirEuropa flies to/fromPalma daily exceptSunday andtoParis andFrank- to/from Madridflights daily,toBarcelona fromMilanandthere areZaragoza Iberia airport.Ryanairalsoflies directStansted to direct The Air THERE& AWAY GETTING &Sat) 8am Fri ClubZgz Roxy a bitof jazz,withoccasionallive turns. the soundsare amixof blues,R&Band even of jazzyinstrumentsispartof thedécorand alone, tothefirst filmtalkie. Aniceselection popular placepaysheavy tribute, byitsname it’sstillalivelynight, venue. late-night ish popandrockbands.FridaySaturday there’s aregular live concertwithmainlySpan- popular, especiallyonThursday when nights cover forlivemusic€6-8; and filmevents. Agenda Cultural, The touristoffice putsoutthebimonthly ENTERTAINMENT Pignatelli 7; de Ramón deano 13) friendly, andlesbian-friendly, crowded dancefloor. Acrossthestreet isthe red thebarfrom separate curtains satin 6) Galdeano (García south of Paseo deMaría Augustin. 422 La Casa delLoco La Casa There are acoupleof friendlygayclubsjust El Cantor deJazz El Cantor For house sessions atweekends, check sessions For house out Oasis deZaragoza Filmoteca from midnight Fri &Sat) from midnightFri airport Zaragoza ZARAGOZA •• Entertainment ZARAGOZA ••Entertainment Ryanair . Closer totheoldcity, . Closer ( % , thenarounddawnheadfor 976 439534;CalledeBoggiero28;cover€10; (Calle ComandanteSantaPau 4; isafriendly,stylish place,where (www.ryanair.com) ( ( h % covering theatre, art,music % h ( h % ( % from 5pm) 976 467440;Paseo deFernando 976 238924;CalleDato18) Wed-Sat night) from 9.30pmThu-Sat) Afew streets westof 976 39 67 71; Calle Mayor 10; 976 396771;CalleMayor ( 976 712300) % h 976 721853;PlazaSan isaquiet,chatty 6am-10am Sat&Sun) flight to/from flight Mick Havanna Mick Y Que One of the hasadaily (García Gal- (García Hugely Paradys h This Kitsch Kitsch (Calle 2am- , Destinations: Soria andTarazona.Destinations: Soria Fuendetodos Zaragoza Automóviles Conda Autobuses Automóvil Abasa &Agreda includethefollowing: they serve Tarragona) (Badajoz, andSuroeste Mérida). Hife (Valencia,include Linecar(Soria,León), operatingfromhere 2¼ hours). Otherservices hour), halfof which continuetoJaca (€10.40, to/fromHuesca(€5,one buses at leasteight and 3¾ hours) (€11.10,3¾hours), andBarcelona adayto/fromMadridleast 15buses (€11.75, where 93 43;www.agredasa.com inSpanish;Paseo Agustín 7) deMaría is busstation useful entrenched isthesystem. Currently, the most nobody’s holdingtheirbreath onthisone,so 2008,but maywellberealised byExpo station Intermodaljacent totheEstación Deliciastrain ad- thattheywillallbebased ongoing promise lines were stillscattered allover thecity.The bus several At thetimeof writing,Zaragoza’s Bus lencia (€20.40, 5½hours, twodaily),Huesca one to4½ hours, approximately 12daily),Va- approximately (€36.50, 10daily),Barcelona entries. tions inSpain,luggage isscannedatplatform Asoffice atthestation. withothermajor sta- opened in2003.There isavery helpful tourist Delicias Estación Intermodal futuristic andratherimpersonal Zaragoza’s Train Viajes Viaca Therpasa Destinations: Burgos,Logroño,Teruel andValencia. Tezasa Sanguesa Samar Buil dePiedra.Destinations: CalatayudandMonasterio .automovileszaragoza.com inSpanish;CalledeAlmagro18) Compostela andVitoria. Santander,Santiagode Destinations: Bilbao,León, Oviedo, Avenida Católico. AnselmoClavé.Destination:SosdelRey Andorra. Pablo Paseo Serrano, Agustín 20.Destination: deMaría arra 1)Destinations:Pamplona, andTudela. SanSebastián (Lérida) andMuel. (Lérida) Daroca,Fraga,Lleida tions: Alcañiz,Belchite,Cariñena, .agredasa.com inSpanish;Avenida deValencia 20)Destina- Services includeMadrid (€39.60,1¾hours, Services andthedestinations Other busstations Alosa ( ALSA % ( In the car park below Estación El Portillo, InthecarparkbelowEstaciónElPortillo, ( % % ( 976 276179;CalleJuanPablo Bonet13) ( % ( % % Buses depart from in front of the Museo frominfrontoftheMuseo Buses depart 976 22 57 23; Calle del General Sueiro22) 976 225723;CalledelGeneral 976 229343;www.alosa.es inSpanish) 976 4304;CalledeBorao13) 902 422242;www.alsa.es) 976 283100;CalledePignatelli 120) ( % 976 3372;Avenida deNav- ( Agreda Automóvil Agreda % ( 976 219320;www % (Calle Rioja 33) (Calle Rioja 976 554588;www lonelyplanet.com operates at operates at ( % was runs runs 976 22 976 22 , GETTING AROUND GETTING (€11.35, three hours, three daily). Jaca (€9.90,3½hours, three daily)andTeruel (€4.75, onehour,approximately fourdaily), lonelyplanet.com was Francisco JosédeGoyayLucientes, Some of thegreatest small.Onesuch start Fuendetodos that isacomfyoptionforanovernight stay. 1; s/d€30/35) inanearly-20th-centurywarehouse.housed 11am-2pm&5-8pmSat,Sun) 2pm &4-7pmTue-Fri, ( andintownthere’sCariñena, a paintings of bytheyoungGoya. saints Muel, 19kmbefore hassomefine Cariñena, producing region. The Aragón’spremier deCariñena, wine- Campo The N330southtowardsTeruel through passes Cariñena & Muel advantageous. by bus,buthaving yourowntransportis The followingplacescanallbereached SOUTH OFZARAGOZA isabout€17to€20. to/fromthestation taxi stitución, oneblockfromPlazadeAragón.A Delicias begins/endsatPaseo delaCon- Tubo. Intermodal Bus51to/fromEstación Plaza deEspañaonthesouthernedge of El for municipalbus30)thatlinkwithflights. Plaza SanFranciscoandGranVia4(thestop (€1.80)to/fromPaseobuses Pamplona via Automóvil Agreda % Hostal Iliturgis Bodegas Most city bus routes (€0.80) go through Most citybusroutes (€0.80)gothrough rural townof Fraga mightstopyouinyourtracks at You don’treally wanttolingerintherelentless flatlandsbetweenZaragoza andValencia, butthe DANCING INTHEDESERT .com inSpanish;CalleSotet2;admissionaround €12; Fraga. Headlinersin 2006 were The Prodigy. west ofFraga. Recentfestivals have seenupto30,000people,three timesthepopulationof on variousstagesat theevent, place inmid-July which takes atFinca Les Peñetes, about18km Parade. Dozens ofSpanishandinternationally renowned DJsandbandsdemonstrate theirskills ing birth tothe ing birth for themonthlyprogramme. boiledover giv- Onenightbackin1994theaction tothedesert, sessions, althoughthere are sometimes sessionsonWednesdayandFriday.Checkthewebsite hall that’sbeengoingsince1942.Busloads ofclubbersarrive fortheclub’smainSaturday-night The windowless3000-sq-metre, graffiti-strewn spaceisjustthemostrecent incarnationofadance 902 190713;CalledelaPlatera7;admission€2; (cellars) dotthemainroadinto is arefurbished 17th-centuryhome ( ZARAGOZA •• Getting Around ZARAGOZA••Getting % ( % Monegros Desert FestivalMonegros Desert 976 62 04 92; Plaza de Ramón yCajal 976 620492;PlazadeRamón 976 554588) Ermita delaFuente runsairport Museo del Vino delVino Museo h 10am- in (www.monegrosfestival.com) h from 11.30amSat) the streets isapleasure. ments torepay astop,whilejustwandering the N122.Ithasmore monu- thanenough of Spanishtown.Thetownlieson amedieval town are reminder anevocative of thelayout streets ofThe quiet,serpentine Tarazona’s old 480m pop 10,500/elevation Tarazona WEST OFZARAGOZA delPueyo Señora the 18th-centurybaroque threeutes) timesdaily. arrive fromZaragoza during thewar. Abasa (€3.70,45min- buses RepublicanandNationalistforces between tug-o-warforpossession memorial toabrutal by anadjacentnewvillage, asasilent stand of theoldtown,which have replaced been inthe wrought Spanish CivilWar. Theruins most eloquentreminders of thedestruction The twintownsof are Belchite perhapsthe Belchite Monday toSaturday. detodos (€5,onehour)at10amand6pm of theartist’sengravings. Grabado deGoya restored.been Downtheroad, less humblethanlegends make out,hassince the civilwar,three-storey abode,which is it.Partlyfound andbought destroyedduring century, whentheartistIgnacioZuloaga Sun) Grabado deGoya€1.80; ( of in1746.The Cariñena, born inthisinsignificanthamlet,24kmeast % Samar Buil buses leave Zaragoza forFuen- leaveSamar Builbuses Zaragoza A few kilometres westof stands Belchite lrd 135 Florida stayed inhisfamilyuntiltheearly20th stayed 976 14 38 30; Zuloaga 3; admission incl Museo del976 143830;Zuloaga3;admissioninclMuseo , thetemple ofSpanishtechno. ( contains a seminal collection aseminal contains % . , formerlycalledtheGroove 974 470250;www.florida135 h both 11am-2pm&4-7pmTue- Santuario deNuestra Santuario Casa NataldeGoya Casa Museo del Museo

423 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN leaflets have Englishversions. lots of material onthetownandarea. Most .tarazona.org; PlazaSanFrancisco1; 7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm&4-6pmor7pmSatSun) 7pm Mon-Fri, pleasant family-runplace.pleasant budget choice hasunfussy,comfyroomsina century palace achoice stopover. patio, makeRenaissance thisone-time 16th- colourful individual décor,plusapreserved 424 fast from€72; inSpanish;CalleVisconti 15;rinclbreak-.condesdevisconti.com popular songduringtheearly20th century. Meller,shrine toRaquel of Aragón’s queen prietor. Thelittlebreakfast room isaglorious home haslovely rooms andacharming pro- Just off PlazaSanFrancisco,this 200-year-old taagueda.com; CalleVisconti26;s/dfrom€59/69.50; dianos 1;s/d€25/35) www.palacetearcedianos.com inSpanish;PlazadelosArce- delosArcedianos Hostal Palacete SLEEPING &EATING are‘hanging houses’ remarkable. balconiedprojections Thehigh of the served. judería Islamic fortifiedpalace. Tarazona’s medieval cio Episcopal the of theslenderMudéjartower around youcansee streets andbuildingsthemselves. Fromall be entered butthere’s interest enough inthe iles. Mostof themainmonumentscannot part’of ‘high thetown,northofeval RíoQue- around thetwistingcobbledwaysof themedi- complete withringsidewindowseats. in the1790sasaprivate housinginitiative (Old Bullring)ismadeupof built 32houses required.been has hardly surprisingthatmajor stabilisation its foundationsare onfairlydesiccated soilit’s dateno certain of reopening. Considering that since 1997.Atthetimeof writingthere was forrestoration closed styles.Ithasbeen sance of Romanesque, Gothic, Mudéjar and Renais- a few have defaced,sadly. been lish) interpretive panelsallover town.although There are multilingual(includingEng- useful SIGHTS A signposted walkingroute takes you Nearby, theoctagonal Tarazona’s The helpful Hotel Condes de Visconti CondesdeVisconti Hotel Hostal SantaAgueda ZARAGOZA •• West Of Zaragoza ZARAGOZA ••WestOf Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena Iglesia deSantaMaría (Jewish area) isexceptionally wellpre- p (Bishop’sPalace), nextdoor,wasa cathedral ) Beautiful rooms, mostlywith Beautiful tourist office tourist Upinthe isafetching concoction ( % ( % 976 640054;www.san h ( Plaza deTorosVieja % judería 976 644908;www 9am-1.30pm &4.30- 976 640074;www ( % 976 642303; thisgood . The ai has Pala- ) charming countryhome. Valentín Gómez3) Carpintero arra 17) hours) andSoria(onehour). like castlethanamonastery. The aCastilian advantageous. the monastery. Having yourowntransportis at theVera turn-off ontheN122,4kmfrom stopinVerazona buses theothers itself; stop Just twoof dailyZaragoza–Tara- Therpasa’s of Tarazona and1kmfromVera deMoncayo. complex. Themonastery is13kmsoutheast lery. There withinthe isasmallwinemuseum surmounted uppergal- level byaRenaissance charming cloister, which hasalower,Gothic rather stern Gothicchurch isflanked bya Mon) ( Moncayo thefortified Backed bytheoften snowcappedSierradel Around Tarazona San Francisco. Both stopsare aminute’s walkfromPlazade ( Up tosix THERE&AWAYGETTING andothersnacks. tapas tasty the touristoffice isthisfriendlybarthatdoes Located ashort wayalongtheriverbank from below its dome. the fathers of thechurch, intheangles housed The baroque it’sabout totopple intothestreet.though de SanPedro Iglesia deSanAndrés Mudéjar towers of the outthe the labyrinthineoldtownandsearch points of interest to meritastop.Head for pheric centre of narrowstreets andenough isanatmos- A2highway, Zaragoza–Madrid At thedustycore of the justoff , 530m pop 17,300/elevation Calatayud Moncayo. on theflankof the2300m-plus Sierra del Natural delMoncayo tent/car €3/3/3; Vera deMoncayo % % Those withavehicleThose canvisitthe Cafetería Casino Cafetería In Vera, accommodationincludes , foundedinthe12thcentury,looksmore 976 649025;admission€2; 948 820342;Parque delaEstación) buses run daily to/from Zaragoza (1¼ rundailyto/fromZaragoza buses Therpasa ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (Rua deEduardoDato) h features four Goya paintingsof Parroquia deSanJuanEl Real 976 646565;CalleMoncayo6;r€34) mid-Jun–mid-Oct) ( % ( , with several walkingtrails , withseveral andthe14th-century ( % % 976 649154;sitesperperson/ 976 64 22 17; Plaza La Seo 1) 976 642217;PlazaLaSeo 976 641100;Avenida deNav- Colegiata deSanta María Colegiata Monasterio deVeruela Monasterio h 10.30am-6.30pm Wed- , which looksas goes toTudela. goes and lonelyplanet.com Autobuses Conda Autobuses La Casa del La Casa Camping Camping Parque (Calle Iglesia , a , ( rooms, andthecharming 17; s/dwithshared bathroom€14/24) tion lonelyplanet.com south their crenellated ridges fillthenorthern Spanish side of therange. Viewed fromthe the mostdramatic andmostrewarding onthe peaks wellover the3000mmark andtheyare big. The Pyrenees boastseveral Aragonese somewheremountains ahead.And theyare and there isagrowinganticipationof very big flatlands, ahintof green tinges thelandscape parchedAs youheadnorth fromZaragoza’s PYRENEES) (THE THE NORTH returning2½ hours) at5pm. viaCalatayud, tothemonastery (€10.60, gro 18inZaragoza deAlma- runsa9ambusfromCalle Zaragoza Sunday (ordailyinsummer),Automóviles lake. Thehotel hasarestaurant. balconies,someoverlookingwith pleasant the ( optionis a goodsleeping piedra.com inSpanish;s/d€73/135) dePiedra Monasterio Incorporated intothecomplexis upinthe1860s,first inSpain. that wasset fed byRíoPiedra. There’s afishfarm even park fullof caves andwaterfalls, thelatter ers laidoutthegroundasaformalwooded own- into private handsin1840.Subsequent was abandonedinthe1830sandthensold dates fromthe13thcenturybut Calatayud, 10.15am-1.15pm &3.15-7.15pm) monastery adult/child€11/7.50; This one-timeCistercian dePiedra Monasterio continues to/fromMadrid. oneof which trains runto/fromZaragoza, at leastthree to/fromMadrid. buses Three (€5.90,onehour),whileALSAruns Zaragoza runsfourormore dailyto/from buses Zaragoza off thecentralPlazadelFuerte. Automóviles allmeals. Both have restaurants serving María. deSanta century innneartheColegiata Calle BaltasarGracián15;s/d€25/45) % % Places to stay includethegoodbudgetPlaces tostay op- On Tuesday,Thursday, Saturdayand In thelakeside village of isinabuilding busstation Calatayud’s 976 849112;www.lasrumbas.com inSpanish;s/d€30/46) 976 897020;www.hospederiaelpilar.com inSpanish; Pensión LaPerla THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES)••Activities (THE THENORTH ( ( % % 976 881340;CalledeSanAntón 976 849011;www.monasterio h , 28kmsouthwestof , inarestored 17th- monastery . ,with bigsparkling ,with Nuévalos park 9am-dusk,monastery Hostal LasRumbas Hospedería ElPilar , 3km north, , 3kmnorth, (both park& Hotel Hotel prehensive insomeinstances. substitute, notcom- an acceptable although Aragón Pyrenees. Editorial Alpinamapsare some of the bestmapsforwalkers inthe stays. will get discountson yousubstantial provide someinformation, andaFAM card 71; www.fam.esinSpanish;CalleAlbareda 7,Zaragoza) eración AragonesadeMontañismo booked ahead,beprepared tocamp.The refugios ing shelter only.Atholidaytimesstaffed meals, whileothers are emptyshacks provid- refugios sack. bivvy shelter andconsidercarryingalight spring thaws.Knowexactlywhere there is in safe conditionafter winter stormsand thatpaths andtracksareearly intheseason, the route. Checkbefore out,especially setting know where there are water sourcesalong reports. asmuch water Carry asyoucanand outcheck setting thelatestBefore weather prepared forextreme conditions atalltimes. at anytimeof theyear,sowalkers shouldbe summer. Theweathercanbeunpredictable parks andpaths canbecomecrowdedinmid- themore though popularearly September, plenty of otherroutes. AragónPyrenees,spectacular butthere are The coast-to-coast GR11 traverses themost PRs) are nowmarked inallpartsof Aragón. trails(Pequeñosshort-distance Recorridos; trails(GrandesRecorridos;GRs)and distance mer than in winter. Some6000kmof long- areAragón’s mountains more popularinsum- WALKING include andsomemeals. ski passes in andneartheresorts offers packages that Astún Most accommodation andCandanchú. Formigal,Panticosa,with resorts atCerler, Aragón hasplentyof skislopesinthePyrenees, SKIING Activities crossing intoFrance. thevalleysandsomeclawing upthrough ways toapproach thearea, routes withseveral resorts andgreat walking.There are many offer decentski magnificentscenery,several horizon wherever youturnandtheirvalleys The Aragonese publisher Pramesproduces The Aragonese This chapter mountain mentionsseveral The besttimeforwalkingismid-Juneto (refuges). Some are andserve staffed are often full,sounlessyouhave (FAM; % 976 2279 refugio can 425

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4pm- 974 974 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN Zaragoza (€5.50, one hour), and around nine (€5.50,onehour),andaroundnine Zaragoza .campingloarre.com inSpanish;sites perperson/tent/car the village of Loarre, 35kmfromHuesca. uphill walkbythe PR-HU105 footpath, from San Pedro. banquet sceneswere shotintheIglesiade in12th-centuryFrance), andthe film isset backdrop formuch of the theaction(though Heaven it inthe2005RidleyScottfilm, views. ful. Youcanclimbtwotowers formagnificent so darkthatatorch wouldbeuse- (flashlight) realisticsuitably atmosphere. Somepartsare left inastate of partialrestoration, givingita ers, inandaroundthelivingrock,hasbeen has someresonance times. withthose Aragón, itsresemblance castle toacrusader Sancho IIIof Navarra andSancho of Ramírez inthe11thcenturyby ers oncerode. Raised southern plainsacrosswhich Muslimraid- 10am-8pm Jul&Aug) &Sep–mid-Oct, 10am-1.30pm &4-7pmTue-Sun mid-Mar–Jun 27; guidedtour€2; The monolithic deLoarre Castillo AROUND HUESCA (€7.15,three hours). to Canfranc-Estación to Jaca (€7.05,2½hours), withtwocontinuing uel andValencia. Three trainsdailyheadnorth one hour),witheach to/fromMadrid, Ter- (€6.10, trainsadayrunto/fromZaragoza Eight TRAIN nasque (€10.40)andPamplona (€12.30). toBe- 4¼ hours). There’s alsoadailyservice two hours); andfive (€19.60, to/fromBarcelona (€3.65, 50minutes) andLleida(Lérida;€8.80, each to/fromJaca (€6,1¼hours), Barbastro in Spanish) Bus company BUS &Away There Getting from around10.30pmonThursday night. this localalternative spacehostslive music h crowd thatspanstheage range. andahappy,noisy seating space withraised 428 Café delArte Café The castle is a 5km drive, or a 2km, one-hour, The castleisa5km drive, ora2km,one-hour, Camping Castillo de Loarre Castillo Camping If italllooksfamiliar,youmayhave seen A labyrinthof dungeons, tunnels andtow- closed Tue) THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••AroundHuesca (THE THE NORTH . The medieval fortress served as a fortress. Themedieval served runs at least six daily buses to/from to/from runsatleastsixdailybuses Downstairs from the senior centre, Downstairs fromthesenior h Alosa ( % stands broodingabovestands the Castillo de Loarre deLoarre Castillo 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Jan–mid-Mar, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Jan–mid-Mar, 974 211691;PlazadeNavarra4; ( % 974 21 07 00; www.alosa.es 974 210700;www.alosa.es ( % 974 382722; www ( Kingdom of % 974 3826 27 06; www.hospederiadeloarre.com; Plaza Miguel Moya;s/d PlazaMiguel 27 06;www.hospederiadeloarre.com; 1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep, 11am-1.30pm& 1.30pm &4.30-7.30pmWed-MonApr-Sep, through bymorethrough than200dramaticcanyons north of roadissliced theHuesca–Barbastro diving.TheSierradeGuara, swimming, even means available jumping, –walking,abseiling, lowing canyonsdownstream bywhatever barrancos east of Huescameans Heading downriver inthe Alquézar region 670m pop 307/elevation ALQUÉZAR look,headforRiglos. a closer popular withvery serious rock climbers. For look outof andare placeintheGrandCanyon as LosMallos (Mallets) up–theywouldn’t rise On theeastern bank,huge rocktowers known matic area alongRíoGállegonorthof Ayerbe. Huesca–Pamplona road,youcometoadra- After arather unexcitingpatch alongthe Mallos Los just onebusonSaturday. (€2.35, 40minutes) MondaytoFriday;there’s medium-priced toexpensive meals. on Loarre village square. Itsrestaurant offers occupying aconverted 16th-centurymansion incl breakfast €67/84; road orfootpath. from thevillage tothecastle,accessibleby €2.90/2.90/2.60) biblical scenes, andthewalls are covered with depicting capitals carved perfectly preserved within itsdelicate cloister are crownedby here in1099are stillvisible. Thecolumns of theAugustinianmonastery he established around 1060bySancho Remnants Ramírez. Arabs inthe9thcentury,itwasconquered Originally builtasan 4-6pm Wed-MonOct-Mar) with along Nueva Calle tothepleasant lead eventually there? Thevillage haswindingstreets that whynot,whileyou’rein acanyon,although ifyoudon’twanttogettour even wetandwild place,wellworthade- Alquézar isadelightful of Alquézar,20kmnorthwestof Barbastro. Europe’s primelocationforthesport. of theRíoVero andotherriver systems andis Santa María the village istopped bythe stands there are fineviews.Therockyhillonwhich Two buses runtoLoarreTwo buses village fromHuesca The main base isthepicturesqueThe mainbase village inSpanish),which involves fol- ( % mirador isagoodsite located halfway 974 231099;admission€3; w Hospedería deLoarre , alarge castle-monastery. ) isacharming, smallhotel (viewpoint) fromwhere Alcázar canyoning lonelyplanet.com (fortress) bythe ( descenso de Colegiata de Colegiata ( % h 974 38 11am- rooms andgreat viewsfromtheupperfloors. inthevillage, withtwo-tosix-personseveral is acheerfully run in a 17th-century house, isfullofin a17th-centuryhouse, intriguing heart of thevillage. inaMudéjarbuildingthe (country house) as charming astheroomsinthis without bathroom€30/25) tura.com; 5;bunksinclbreakfast CalleSanGregorio €15) the towninvariouslanguages. Calle San Gregorio 5) Calle SanGregorio Book accommodation onlineBook at lonelyplanet.com THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) (THE THENORTH simply waitpatientlyforthenexttour. in progress; theylastforabouthalfanhour,so tour only.Thedoorislocked whiletours are ofmuseum sacred art.Visitsare byguided isa spellbinding murals.Ontheupperlevel several roomshaveseveral great balcony views. town with alotof style initslarge airyrooms; d inclbreakfast €50/58; .villadealquezar.com in Spanish;CallePedro Arenal Cavero12;s/ its great terrace. €13 andaheftieronefor€21;enjoy themon restaurantand theattached offers a winter) d with/withshared bathroom€40/30; rental. It organises canyonguidingandequipment to six-person bungalowsfrom€35to€94. the village, thiscampinggroundalsohastwo- sites perperson/tent/car€3.80/3.80/3.50) Alquézar Camping Sleeping &Eating Vertientes mid-September. Anothergoodlocalagency is tain ismid-Juneto climbing. The mainseason also organises rafting, trekking andmoun- isprovided of difficulty thetrip.Gear andit €45 adayperperson, dependingonthegraded rabal) Avalancha tivals onlyNov-May) h the rockyfoundations. includes anoldolive-oil works,dugoutof artefacts of farminganddomesticlife and 11am-2pmTue-Sun Nov-May) Apr-Oct, Baja 16;admission€1.50; Casa Jabonero Casa Fonda Narbona agencies, such asthewell-organised Several A The charming Hotel Villa deAlquézar Villa Hotel Tintorero Casa 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Jun-Oct, Sat,Sun&fes- 10.30am-1.30pm &4.30-8.30pmJun-Oct, offer guided canyoning tripscosting€39to Roomshere are simplebutvery pleasant tourist office tourist ( ( % % 974 31 83 54; www.vertientesaventura.com; 974 318354;www.vertientesaventura.com; 974 318299;www.avalancha.org; CalleAr- at Casa Tintoreroat Casa ( below ). has useful informationabout has useful ( ( % ( % % Casa FabiánCasa p ( % ( % albergue 974 31 83 54; www.vertientesaven 974 318354;www.vertientesaven The welcome is every bit Thewelcomeisevery 974 31 89 08; Calle Mayor; rwith/ 974 318908;CalleMayor; h 974 318434;www.alquezar.com; Oneof thebest placesin ) 974 318078;CalleBaja19; 974 318940;CalleArrabal; ( 11am-2pm &4-8pmTue-Sun % /fax 974318416;www ( (refuge), oneof % , a folk museum , afolkmuseum h 974 318913;Calle Justoutside Sat &Sunonlyin casa rural menú This This for .org; Avenida 64; delaMerced to/from Lleida orBarcelona. stop inMonzón ontheirway fromZaragoza trains (€3.40,onehour).Several to Aínsa (€6.30,twohours); andone ortwo Benasque which continuetoLleida(Lérida); twoto celona; 11toHuescaandMonzón, halfof 31 1293) Departures fromBarbastro’s &Away There Getting Romeral century church, the partlyrestored,has nowbeen ashasthe12th- sieges inthe16thto19thcenturies.Itseveral of fell, knights thefortress decayedunder plar tookitover in1143,butafter theorder The Aragón bySancho Ramírez. Tem-Knights Monzón’s first great fortress, later taken for the town’sjumbledstreets. TheMuslimsbuilt Sat, 10am-2pmSunOct-Jun) 11.30am-1pm&4-6pm 11.30am-1pm &3-5pmTue-Fri, Sep, h formidable have hugely been intimidatedof atsight the 14,650), 19kmsoutheastof must Barbastro, best café. décorandalsorunsthetown’shas bright 13;s/d€40/50; Ricardos net; CalleGeneral is combinedwitha Tue-Sat Sep-Jun, dailyJul&Aug) movement Opus Dei. Escrivá,thefounderof Josemaría theCatholic wasalsothebirthplaceofForment. Barbastro master Damián ning, workbytheRenaissance –anincomplete,main altarpiece yetstillstun- acter andthe16th-century area aroundPlazadelMercado hassomechar- the traces today.It’sabitrun-down,although Spain’s mostnortherlyoutpostshasleftlittle 350-yearspellasoneofBarbastro’s Muslim 341m pop 15,400/elevation BARBASTRO &AROUND pre-Pyrenean canyoncountry. drive isadelightful through ungo toAínsa Sunday. (€1.55)daily,except Alquézar fromBarbastro Cortés Autocares &Away There Getting Hostal Pirineos vintages. Thecentralthe localSomontano Enemies ridingagainst The North of Col- Alquézar,the roadthrough 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun except Sun afternoon Jul- 10am-1pm &5-8pmTue-Sun exceptSunafternoon most days include four buses toBar- mostdaysincludefourbuses tourist office tourist . castle ( % ••Barbastro&Around ( % 974 310000;hspirineos@eresmas. ( ( % 974 311552) % Colegiata de Santa María del deSanta María Colegiata wine museum , risingproudlyabove 974 349007;admission€2; 974 308350;www.barbastro h , nexttothebullring, Monzón 10am-2pm &4.30-8pm cathedral bus station runsabusto devoted to devoted (population paw boastsa ( % 429 974

) ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN 430 los Tilos) connection alsooffers cheapinternationalcalls.connection 5;perhr€2; Huertos Gradodiez Compañía deGuías Valle deBenasque delaMontaña Casa Barrabés the hills: orrentmost sell clothingandequipmentfor tion forclimbing,skiingandother activities; Plenty of outfitters offer guidesandinstruc- office Tourist Telecomunicaciones S&Z Lavandería Ecológica Information (in Spanish)andwww.volarencastejon.com. gliding outfitswww.parapentepirineos.com visitwww.castejondesos.es andforpara- stay accommodation. Forinformationonwhere to of deSos Castejón isaparaglidingcentre with either direction. Northof thedefile,village There’s not much quarter in given bytraffic RíoÉsera. bythecrystalline row defilecarved theCongostodeVentamillo,through anar- jumps outatyouastheA139/N260plunges touristy feel tothetowngenerally. atmosphere, butthere’s hard-edged, aslightly narrow backstreets of thevillage have some also foraspotof after-dark bar-hopping. The activitiesbut jumping-off pointformountain ers, climbers and skiers flockhere notonlyasa risingonthreerocky mountains sides. Walk- inabroad,greenlocal dialect),set valleywith inthe (Benás district isthevillage of Benasque centreof of peaks.TheAlpine-stylenerve the limitless optionsand climbers awidechoice Natural Posets-Maladeta, offers walkers almost area, much of which isprotected asthe Parque canbecappedwithsnowandice.tains The Evennees. great inmidsummerthese moun- andshapeliestpeaksinthePyre-the highest Aragón’s northeastern corneriscrammedwith 1140m pop 1388/elevation BENASQUE vast array,includingmapsandguidebooks. ; walking routes. walking copiousinformationonshorter 1.30pm &4.30-8pm)Offers que.com in Spanish; Calle San Sebastián 5; que.com inSpanish;CalleSanSebastián Avenida shop. Luchón) Localbranchof Cerlerski Luchón 19) 55 1336;www.guiasbenasque.com inSpanish;Avenida The approach fromthesouthsuddenly THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••Benasque (THE THE NORTH h ( ( % 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pmSat) 10am-2pm &5-8pmMon-Fri, % ( 974 551681;Avenida deFrancia)Stocksa % 629 18 24 82; www.grado-diez.com; 629 182482; www.grado-diez.com; h 974 551289;www.turismobenas ( % ( 3-10pm) Benasque’sinternet % ( 974 552094;Avenida de % 974 551504;Carretera de 974 551459;Los h ( % 9.30am- 974 the closest campinggroundtotown(3.5km the closest There’s arestaurant attached. isfriendly. somely furnishedandtheservice accommodation atitsbest.Roomsare hand- marsial.com inSpanish;Avenida deFrancia75;s/dinclbuffet ing.com; sitesperperson/tent/car€4.95/4.95/4.95) €4-15.50) old town, the ‘attic’s’ sleek moderndécoris old town,the‘attic’s’sleek excuse fordelvingintothecreamexcuse andchoco- The bestplacesare alongAvenida delosTilos Eating &Drinking run hotel atthenorthendof town. doneherepleasantly well- inthiscomfortable, breakfast €65/105) Spanish; Avenida deLosTilos 14;s/d€53.50/67) snacks,includingveggie burgers.selling bagforthedorms.There’ssleeping acafé-bar toiletsandshowers. a the same You’llneed tion here isbasic,withupto30bunkssharing i 5;bunks€9,s/dwithshared bathroom€27/42; .es; CalleMayor and laundry. away). Itisvery wellequippedandhasashop with mostoffer packagesDuring theskiseason a dozenhotels and Intownyou’llfind A139 northof Benasque. There are campinggroundsalongthe several Sleeping prepared and presented. andfreshwater(small deer) fish,allsuperbly young venison partridge, andstuffed fare.ing Aragonese Itsspecialitiesinclude outstand- country diningroom which serves 5; mains€18-28) at€10.50. €6, fonduesstart andsavoury crepes Sweet evenings. cost€4to softened byabig,openfire forchilly Pyrenean shop. coffee late cornucopia inthistraditionalbakery and 17) Mayor with tourists. little bar,where localaficionadoshappilymix helpthedrinkgodownatthislively(sausage) Meaty such as tapas Mayor.and itscontinuation,Calle Hotel SanMarsial Hotel Pastelería FlordeNieve Pastelería Avenida Hotel La FondadeVescelia Camping Aneto Camping Restaurante ElFogaril Restaurante La Buhardilla Taberna delIxarso ) Cheap,cheerful andcentral,accommoda- media pensión Energy-fuelling treats couldbethe A plushcreperie attheheartof the Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Treat yourself atthiselegant Theusuallodgelike touches are ( ( % % ( % 974 55 13 20; Calle Mayor s/n;dishes 974 551320;CalleMayor 974 551126;www.h-avenida.com in ( ( % % (half-board). hostales ( 974 551141;www.anetocamp % chorizo ( 974 551616;www.hotelsan % 974 55 28 32; Calle Mayor 12) 974 552832;CalleMayor 974 551654;vescelia@terra ( % 974 55 16 12; Calle Mayor 974 551612;CalleMayor (budget hotels) and 974 551027;Calle Benasque Benasque salchichón Thisis cozal . www.cerler.com inSpanish) h ing tobackgroundrockof theothersort. copiesofthrough climbingmagswhilelisten- ing spotwhere rockandicefanciers canthumb upbeat atmosphere make thisapopulardrink- lonelyplanet.com foot, take the track towards Camping Ixeia,foot, take thetracktowards Camping OnA139 about 5.5kmnorth of Benasque. This valleyrunssoutheastward upfromthe VALLE DEVALLIBIERNA and Sahún. orfromnearbyvillages, suchitself asEriste fromBenasque hour’s toaday’swalking,start Plenty of marked trails,ranging froman NEAR BENASQUE 1:40,000 Mapa series. Excursionista Maladetas 5; San Sebastián ( current atBenasque’s timetables of Check thewalksmentionedinthissection. themtoreach –youcanuse many Benasque stop atcampinggroundsontheA139northof Thebuses bierna, 11kmnortheastof Benasque. return €10/13.10),which isintheValle deValli- and withtheRefugioPescadores (one-way/ valley, €6/8.80), 16kmnorthintheupperÉsera (one-way/return Besurta withLa link Benasque busservices From mid-Junetomid-September, &Climbing Walking duringskiseason. stations andtheski connectsBenasque A busservice able, manypeopleprefer inBenasque. tostay rentals. Withlimited accommodationavail- ski andsnowboardschools andequipment 52kmataltitudesupto2630m,plus totalling at1900m.On offer areCerler, 45variedruns, andanotherat Benasque, Cerler Aragón’s easternmost Skiing AROUND BENASQUE atBarbastro. buses connect withthese from Huesca,Lleida(Lérida)andBarcelona nasque (€6.30,twohours) to/ andback.Buses toBe- one runsonSunday,fromBarbastro operate MondaytoSaturday,and Two buses &Away There Getting % Bar LaCompañía Good mapsfornortheastAragónare 2-11pm, closedWed) 974 55 12 89; www.turismobenasque.com in Spanish; Calle inSpanish;Calle 974 551289;www.turismobenasque.com itself, at1500maltitude,6kmsoutheastof itself, and h 9.30am-1.30pm &4.30-8pm) THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••AroundBenasque (THE THENORTH Llardana-Posets ( % Nicely worn décor and an Nicelyworndécorandan hastwocentres: oneat 974 552900;Avenida Luchón 19; ski resort ski Ampriu ( % , 8kmbeyond inPrames’ tourist office office tourist 974 551012; . Aneto- delhospital.com; bunks €18-28, s/d incl breakfast from €73/90; delhospital.com; bunks€18-28, s/dinclbreakfast from€73/90; From early springonwards itgets very busy tiful location, surroundedby handsomepeaks. is alarge lodge mountain inabeau- Besurta, La pi drinksandsome food. with ahutselling Besurta, valley,endingataspotcalled La Ésera side roadleads6kmeastalongthepretty upper for about 12km.About a 10kmfromBenasque, theA139 continuespavedNorth of Benasque, MASSIF UPPER ÉSERAVALLEY &MALADETA and August). day andFriday(daily,exceptSunday,inJuly at6amMonday,Wednes- toAínsa from Bielsa Parzán, hasseveral y Monte Perdido ( p433 4kmsouthof ). Bielsa, heading intothe Parque NacionaldeOrdesa hamlet of Parzán valley,before in theBielsa GR11 continuessomesixhours westtothe not thateasy.Notacasualstroll,then…The with potential Route altitudeeffect. findingis and isahardsixhours–plus tothesummit, often requires cramponsandlong-shafticeaxes thatrequiresdertaking skills, mountaineering forclimbson base €22; deViadós fugio views of massif,totheexcellent thePosets passandsomesuperb (orChistau) de Gistaín or sohours bringyou,viathe2592mPuerto to ringahead(dinneris€12.80).Afurtherfive refuge isattended year-round, butit’sessential adult/under 14yr€12.50/5.50) de Estósto three-hour walk(600mascent)uptheValle after thePuente deSanJaime. It’saneasy Westbound, the GR11 leaves theA139just GR11 TOBIELSA reached inundertwohours fromtherefuge. ronas, LlosásandVallibierna, caneach be (orIbons)deCo- lakes,mountain theLagos are smallwithnofacilities.Three groupsof the RefugioCoronas,anglers’ shelters that nearly 600m,totheRefugioPescadores or then abouta6km(2½-hour)walk,ascending metres diverges intoValle deVallibierna. It’s coast trail,which after acouplemore kilo- You’reBenasque. nowontheGR11coast-to- de SanJaime (orChaime)bridge, 3kmoutof which leaves theA139justbefore thePuente Hospital deBenasque Bergua Autocares h ) , a little under halfway from the A139 to , alittleunderhalfway fromtheA139to staffed Sat&SunEaster-May) Jun-Sep, Refugio deEstós Refugio ( % 974 50 61 63; bunks €7.50, half-board 974 506163;bunks€7.50,half-board Posets ( hostales % ( . Thisgood115-bunk % 974 500018) (3369m), a serious un- (3369m),aserious 974 55 20 12; www.llanos 974 552012;www.llanos ( and hotels. andhotels. % 974 55 14 83; bunks 974 551483;bunks runsabus . Viadós is a . Viadósisa 431

Re- ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN half-board €29) 432 ally tothe huge, arcadedPlaza Mayor andthe beautiful stonefaçades and eventu- between village. Thistakes youalongcobbledstreets best wayupisbyage-old steps fromthelower can drive upbyroadtoalarge carpark,butthe the placeiscrammedwithfellow visitors. You during festivals andthemainsummerseason orlate evening; if possible,inthelowseason isoneofAínsa Aragón’sgems, worthvisiting, Peñarock bastionof La particularly. Montañesa ramic viewsof andof themountains thegreat above,dialect) thatstands commandingpano- inthelocal village (L’Aínsa of Aínsa medieval hardly prepares you forthebeautifulhilltop The busycrossroadsthatismodern Aínsa 589m pop 1650/elevation AÍNSA mately into Catalonia. beneath theMaladeta massif, leadingulti- walkersRenclusa, can follow paths southeast orLa Besurta Maladeta (3308m).FromLa from here inaminimumof five hours. equipped climbers canreach thetopof Aneto andproperly Experienced Besurta. from La from March toJune,isa40-minute walk about Junetomid-Octoberandweekends in thePyrenees. culminates in peak Aneto (3404m),thehighest with glaciers crests, suspendedfromthehigher climbers. Thisforbiddinglineof icypeaks, massif, asuperbchallenge forexperienced French townof Bagnères-de-Luchon. down pasttheBoumsdelPortlakes to the or another3½hours northwouldtake you Puerto delaPicada,anotherpasstotheeast– 2½ hours. Youcouldreturn viaavisittothe frontier. Thisshouldtake fitwalkers about passontheFrench Portillón deBenasque and fromthere windssteeplyuptothe2445m heads northeastandupwardstoPeña Blanca, Besurta. and La here another shuttlesbackandforthbetween six tripsadayhere (€6return, 30minutes); asummerbusmakes rooms. FromBenasque, commodation rangingfrombunkstocomfy There’s abar, restaurant, andavarietyof ac- a lowercarparkabout 1kmfromthelodge. walkers.tain Ifdrivingyoumaybestoppedat with day-trippers aswellskiers andmoun- The massifoffers otherpeaks,including delaRenclusa Refugio isthegreat Maladeta Besurta South of La An exactingtrailfromLlanosdelHospital THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••Aínsa (THE THE NORTH , staffed and serving mealsfrom andserving , staffed ( % 974 552106;bunks€12, María mately 11am-1.30pm&4-7pm) p laromanica.com inSpanish;CalleSantaCruz21;s/d€39/65; ainsa.com in Spanish; Plaza Mayor 23;s €96.30, d€107-150; ainsa.com inSpanish;PlazaMayor beautiful woodworkandcomfyrooms. lovely stoneand lotsof withexposed detail, yetretaininga beautifulplace;modernised, limited and bookingaheadisadvisable. Accommodation intheoldpartof townis Sleeping Easter-Oct) 97; admission€2.50; an century. Itcontains themaintoweris11th from the1600s,though cations off thefarendof theplazamostlydate tothenorth.The mountains can alsoclimbthe crypt andGothiccloister are charming. You into abox, withsacred musicthrownin.The Plaza Mayor, upwhenyoupopa€1coin lights h ( closed Sunafternoon) Castillo 1,Torre Nordeste; office In addition,there’s anexcellent the crossroadsinnewerpartof thevillage. closedSun&MonNov-Mar) 10am-2pm &4-8pmSep-Apr, [email protected]; Avenida Pirenáica 1; booking discounts. both smart, modernplaces thatoffer web ( Central 2;s/d/tr€36/55.64/73.60) Dos Rios isfriendlyandstylishalso. The service canopied bedsandgood-sizedbathrooms. this stylishhotel hasluxuriousroomswith ai brass beds. church. There are roomswith sixcomfortable tional buildingopposite thesouthdoorof the a charming moodof inthistradi- oldAínsa pital.com; CalledelArcoHospital;s/d€29/45) % % well as Spanish and Aragonese. well asSpanishandAragonese. interpretive panels,inFrench and Englishas castle. Around thevillage there are excellent The restored Romanesque Hotel LosArcos Hotel In thelowervillage are thejointlyrun There isaninternet facilityatthe The helpful Casa ElHospital Casa Hotel Villa Romanica Villa Hotel ) 10am-1.30pm &4-8pmMon-Thu) Runbytheowners of thisis ElHospital, 974 10 03 88; Calle Bajo los Muros s/n;perhr€1.10; 974 100388;CalleBajolosMuros 974 50 09 61; www.hoteldosrios.com; s/d€55/71.70) 974 500961;www.hoteldosrios.com; , justoutsidethesoutheastern cornerof ( % ) ( nafn oiinonPlazaMayor, In afineposition onPyrenean fauna. % 974 500 512; [email protected]; Plaza del Plazadel 974 500512;[email protected]; 974 50 01 06; www.hoteldosrios.com; Avenida974 500106;www.hoteldosrios.com; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com withinthecastlewalls. h tourist office tourist ( ( % % 10.30am-2pm &5-8.30pmWed-Sun belfry h 974 500016;www.hotellosarcos /fax 974 50 07 50; www.caselhos /fax 974500750;www.caselhos ( % 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun, 10am-2pm &4-7pmTue-Sun, forgreat viewsof the eco-museum (admission €1; 974 500750;www.hotelvil and . h castle ( % Iglesia deSanta Hotel DosRios Hotel regional tourist tourist regional 9am-9pm Jul & Aug, 9am-9pm Jul&Aug, 974 500767; ( andfortifi- % h There’s 974 5005 approxi- library is by isby Hostal , bit upmarket togowithit. pricesmaybea although a summerevening, the plazaisagrandplacetoeatincoolof places andthere are plentyof – outsidetables intoeating Mayor tometamorphose seem PYRENEES) ••Parque NacionaldeOrdesayMontePerdido (THE THENORTH aroundPlazaIn summer,halfthehouses Eating fly therare and formidable lammergeier or reaches inherdsof up to50.Inthe skies sarrio arid ground. the otherwise other wildflowers sparklewithcolour across zonewheremountain edelweiss,gentians and in places.Abovecliffs thetree lineisthehigh to scattered of stands pinesthatclingtosheer nating. Lushmixed forest gives up wayhigher and Gavarnie (north,inFrance). (southwest),Bujaruelo(west) (south), Ordesa are (east),Escuaín(southeast),Bellos Pineta wallsof curtain rock.Chiefamongthevalleys glacial by glaciers andattheirheadsliebowl-like ground.Mostweredown fromthehigh carved inthePyrenees. valleysslice peak Deep highest includes Monte Perdido (3348m),thethird- French border,withasoutheastwardspurthat dragon’s backof limestonepeaksskirtingthe your breath away.Attheheartof itallisa This iswhere theSpanishPyrenees really take Y MONTEPERDIDO PARQUE DEORDESA NACIONAL at 7amand3.10pm. Saturday year-round. return Buses fromAínsa July andAugust,at7.45pmMondayto hour) at11amMondaytoSaturdayduring ( busstation, From Barbastro &Away There Getting lower village thatare wellstocked. areand mussels pretty good, also. foie andmushroomsisdeliciousthehake with afew porkwith fishdishes.Thestuffed fine restaurant offers fare meatyAragonese 2; mainsfrom€12.50,menú€22) the church, this café-bar salads, does inasidestreetto itsoutsidetables, alongfrom pretty littleplace,withfloralaccompaniment cheese andshellfishdishes. cheese % Chamois ( The vegetation valleysisfasci- range inthese L’Alfil There are acoupleof supermarkets inthe Bodegas delSobrarbe 974 311552) inAragón)wander thepark’supper circos ( % 974 500299;CalleTraversa;dishes€3.50-9) (cirques) backed by spectacular (cirques)backed byspectacular rebeco runs buses to Aínsa (€3.40,one toAínsa runsbuses inSpanishbutoften called ( % Justoff theplaza,this 974 50 09 37; Plaza Mayor 974 500937;PlazaMayor Autocares Cortés Autocares jamón, A Mon-Fri Nov-Easter) Mon-Fri tion centres opposite theGuardiaCivil, and in Torla,towards the northendof thevillage, information office at Tella intheEscuaín sector. There’s alsoa visitorssecond centre operateshours thesame road.A along theTorla–PraderadeOrdesa is2kminsidethepark plays andhelpfulstaff, h The Information in Torlashops. 20walks.It’savailablewith abookletdetailing Fomento in2000,costsaround€7andcomes (1:25,000), publishedbytheMinisterio de Ordesa yMontePerdidoParque Nacional MAPS the Valle dePineta. (the upperreaches valley). of theBellos deAñisclo Cañón to walksinthespectacular valleyandgivingaccess up thedramaticBellos winding tip, withanarrow,sinuoussection thepark’ssouthern Torla. Thisroadcrosses afew kilometres southofacross toSarvisé, A138, aminorpaved roadheadsnorthwest ros ontheroadnorthof Torla. road veering northatthePuente delosNavar- byanunpavedwestern boundary,isaccessed Vista. Bella byHostal starting of about7kmfromTorlatoPraderadeOrdesa and theshuttlebusisn’trunning,it’sawalk tions, see p436 ). Ifyoudon’thave avehicle vehiclethe nationalpark(forseasonal restric- withabigcarpark,5.5kminside de Ordesa, intheValleleads tothePraderadeOrdesa, the nationalpark.FromTorlaapaved road Torla, 3kmsouthof thesouthwestcornerof pointisthevillageThe mainjumping-off of Orientation access insummer. severe restrictions have placedonvehicle been popular are themore accessiblezonesthat So the biggest inputbycarboundsightseers. skiers, and mountaineers sq-km parkis walkers, butwith themostnumerousbeastin156- seasons, always spectacular golden eagle. Butinsome quebrantahuesos From Escalona,11kmnorthof onthe Aínsa From Bielsa, a12kmpavedFrom Bielsa, roadrunsup The Valle deBujaruelo,outsidethe park’s 9am-2pm &4-7pmEaster-Oct) Centro de Visitantes ElParador deVisitantes Centro ( h 9am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Easter-Oct, 8am-3pm 8am-3pm 9am-1.30pm &3-6pmEaster-Oct, in Escalona and Bielsa. inEscalona andBielsa. Homo sapiens, ( % ( bearded vulture) andthe 974 486472; , withworthwhiledis- h amixof serious ( % 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) park informa- 974 48 64 21; 974 486421; 433

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or ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN Bujaruelo. particularly pretty locationbythePuertode old hostelry provides bunksandmealsina San Nicolás,3kmfurtherupthevalley,this 974 486022;CalledeFrancia;bunks€9; spacious rooms withterraces. from thetoprooms. as smartandwellkept, andhassuperbviews 61 55;CalledeCapuvita11;s/d/tr€35/48/58) www.hotelpalazio.com inSpanish;s/d€40/66) Capuvita; s/d€32/40) Ballarín, isabout thecheapestBallarín, choice apart Spanish; dm€8) €45) like, custom-built cheap lodging.Downhill isthemore business- terrace views.Itoffers mealsaswellexcellent Añisclo Albergue spoonmakers’ workshop inthelittlesquare. mass of Peña Check thewonderful Montañesa. area viewtothe great withasweeping buttelike has oneof themostbeautifuloutlooksin inthemountains, deAñisclo,andhigh Cañón rooms, adiningroomandfireplace. h ( next village south,isthehandsome O’Puente Ara valley3kmsouthof Torla,isthestone The nicestplaceinBroto,nestledtheRío SOUTH OFTORLA ondebujaruelo.com inSpanish;dm€10,half-board€27) restaurant andasupermarket. ing groundfeatures arefuge withbunks,a 3.5km uptheValle deBujaruelo,thiscamp- tent/car €4.10/4.10/4.10,r€36-50; .campingvalledebujaruelo.com inSpanish;sitesperperson/ Valle deBujaruelo Camping VALLE DEBUJARUELO a week. plies insmallsupermarkets, days openseven from €12to€17.Youcanalsostockuponsup- in thevillage. d €37) inSpanish;CalledeFrancia;bunks€9,.refugiolucienbriet.com and charming rooms. from thetwo 436 % Hostal AltoAragón Nerín, a tiny huddle of houses 3km from the Nerín, atinyhuddleof 3km fromthe houses the Among ahandfulof lodgingsinSarvisé, deBujaruelo Mesón All these placeshaveAll these restaurants with Mar-Dec) , besideapieceof theoldbridge. 974 486353;www.casafrauca.com; s/d/tr€35/43/52; are French-managed refuge-style places Refugio LucienBriet Refugio THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••Parque NacionalDeOrdesaYMontePerdido (THE THE NORTH ( % , with a dozen delightfully decorated, withadozendelightfully is open all year and has fabulous isopenallyearandhasfabulous 974 486072;CallePorches7;rinclbreakfast ( % , runinharnesswithHotel refugios 974 48 90 10; www.nerinrural.com in in 974 489010;www.nerinrural.com Hotel Palazio Hotel Hotel Ballarín Hotel ( % Refugio L’Atalaya L’Atalaya Refugio ( % /fax 974486172;Callede . Ithaswell-kept, ( 974 486412;www.mes % ( h % 974 486221;www Easter-Oct) 974 486348;www ( h % ( % is every bit isevery with smart, with smart, Apr–mid-Oct) 974 48 90 02; 974 489002; Casa Frauca Casa /fax 97448 Located ( % menús menús At /fax Casa 50 0832;www.hotelturmo.com inSpanish;s/d€40/60) Parador deBielsa zone); thealways-attended 2.30pm. Inaddition,inJulyandAugusta at (1pm).ItheadsbackfromAínsa Aínsa and and Jaca, toTorla(noon),Broto,Sarvisé Huesca from Sabiñánigo,ontheN330between A daily BUS &Away There Getting Peñamighty Montañesa. cious roomsandbackbalconyviewsof the modern roadsidestopover withexcellent,spa- tiny village of is Labuerda atthe south fromEscalonatowardsAínsa, andintoFrance. Headingthe TúneldeBielsa ( h .campingpineta.com; sitesperperson/tent/car€4.30/4.30/4.30; the shady impressive cirque. Alongthewayyou’llfind sided Valle which dePineta, iscrownedbyan rooms andlavish breakfasts. half-board €37) ( lodgings, includingthefriendly attractive southeastern corner,boastsseveral Escalona, aroadsidevillage atthepark’s EAST OFTHEPARK grounds between theregrounds between andTorla. The last de losNavarros andthree hotels or camping way back,itwillstop ifrequested at thePuente deVisitantesElParador;at theCentro onthe Ontheupward run, thebus’sonlystopis esa. Torlacarpark and PraderadeOrd- between shuttle bus(€2.40/3.40one-way/return) runs July tomid-October. periodsa During these and week during Easter Pradera deOrdesa Private vehicles maynotdrive fromTorlato has remained unchanged years. forseveral proaches tothepark.Thefollowingscenario ( Orientation See p433 of) fordetails roadap- PARK ACCESS Sunday (€1.25,20minutes). a 10.15ambustoSabiñánigodaily,except nect withtheTorlabus.FromJaca, there’s in Sabiñánigoat10.20am,timetocon- de María Agustín 7)at8.30am,andarrives rundaily,returningnot Aínsa) at8pm. (but 6.30pm busmakes theSabiñánigo–Sarvisé % % Continuing northontheA138takes youto From Escalonayoucanheadupthesteep- A daily Alosa bus leaves Zaragoza (Paseo busleavesA dailyAlosa Zaragoza Apr–mid-Oct) 974 505169;www.casa-carpintera.com; Avenida Pineta; 974 501203) Hudebús Camping Pineta Camping , with seven comfortably crafted comfortably withseven , , a , withmeals;andtheluxurious ( % ( zona deacampada % 974 213277) 974 501011;s/d€120/150) ( % Hotel TurmoHotel bus runs at 11am busrunsat11am Refugio dePineta Refugio 974 501089;www Casa Carpintera Carpintera Casa (camping ( % . 974 , a ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ is enforced on part of the Escalona–Sarvisé is enforcedonpartof the Escalona–Sarvisé allowed intheparkatanyonetime. in September. Amaximumof 1800peopleare run backisat10pminJulyandAugust,9pm lonelyplanet.com to repay andtheoldtownhas ashortstay the nascent11th-centuryAragónkingdom remnantsenough of of itspastasthecapital of Pyrenees.section Italsohas theAragonese point forreaching thevalleysof thewestern busy andamiabletownisagoodstarting Atalltimesofsports capital. theyear,this boost tothetown’sreputation asawinter inFebruaryscheduled base 2007,anexpected ympic Winter SportsFestival wastohave its Jaca, where the2007EuropeanYouthOl- nipintheairatYou canfeel amountain 820m pop 14,700/elevation JACA road. analternative, uses moreward traffic southerly isallowed.Southeast- northwestward traffic the roaddiverges valley,only fromthe Bellos out of Escalona,toapoint about 1kmafter road. FromthePuyarruegoturn-off, 2km San JuandelaPeña(21km); 1 3 2 JACA During the same periods,aone-waysystemDuring thesame To Sabiñánigo(14km); Pamplona (112km) Huesca (69km); EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Restaurante ElPortón...... (see16) La Nicolasa...... La CasadelArco...... La Campanilla...... La Cadiera...... Casa Fau...... La CasadelArco...... (see14) Hotel Mur...... Hotel LaPaz...... Hostal Somport...... Hostal París...... Museo Diocesano...... (see5) Ciudadela...... Cathedral...... Tourist Office...... Post Office...... Librería LaTrastienda...... Ciberciva...... AC aeodela Pa nttc n tituci on THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••Jaca (THE THENORTH 2

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D1 437 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN 00; Calle Mayor 41;s/d€37/54) 00; CalleMayor 438 over. Adecentplaceis trade butare worthwhile forasummerstop- comfort andstyle. hotel provideslong-established above-average largeA pleasantly andramblingplace,this Spanish; CalledeSantaOrosia1;s/dinclbreakfast €47.20/63.80) sparkle butisstillagoodoption. with cleandecentrooms,theSomport lacks ray 11;s/dwithshared bathroom€23/46) spotless. is old-styledécorandeverything pleasantly rooms andsmartshared bathrooms.Ithas central optionhasspotless,ample-sized €25/30) inSpanish;PlazaSanPedroparis 5;s/dwithshared bathroom and August. July out theyearandduringskiingseason, It’s worthbookingaheadatweekends through- Sleeping years inOloron-Ste-Marie, France. numbered years inJaca andeven-numbered dance, craftsandtheatre. It’sheldonodd- provides of 1½weeks international music, los Pirineos over Muslimsin760.The May, whenJaca celebrates a archery, visitonthefirstmedieval Fridayof dayof displaysofthe saint’s 25June. Tosee Fiesta deSantaOrosia Jaca putsonitspartygear fortheweek-long Festivals &Events ist office forcurrent details. European Youthfestival. Checkwiththetour- ice skatingandhockey of events the2007 planted by abrand-newrinkforhostingthe established rounding moat. Spanish orFrench). grazeinthesur- Deer ted, with40-minute guidedtours (inEnglish, anarmyacademy,butvisitsarehouses permit- 6-8pmJul&Aug) 5-6pmApr-Jun,Nov-Mar, &Oct, Sep (Citadel; adult/child€4/2; from churches theregion. throughout markable collectionof frescoes andsculpture In thecloister, the vaulted ceilingisstuddedwithgoldstars. At thetimeof writingthetown’slong- The star-shaped, 16th-century Several standard hotels standard cater fortheski Several Mur Hotel Hostal Somport Hostal París Close tothecathedralthisfriendly, Close THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••Jaca (THE THE NORTH , heldinlate July andearlyAugust, ice-skating rink ice-skating ( % ( % ( 974 360100;www.hotelmur.com in % 974 361020;www.jaca.com/hostal h Museo Diocesano Museo /fax 974363410;CalledeEchega- , which revolves round 11am-noon year-round,4-5pm . Hotel LaPaz Hotel wasduetobesup- Festival Folklórico de Festival Folklórico Family-run and Christian victory Christian ( % hasare- Ciudadela 974 3607 now (€5.95, 1¼ hours) and Zaragoza (€11.40, 2¼ (€5.95, 1¼hours) andZaragoza the centre of town.Five gotoHuesca buses 15 94;PlazadelaCatedral) 12; CalleEscuelasPías3; this popularplace. shaded plaza this classy venue serves shaded plazathisclassyvenue serves de laCadena1;menú€32) ternasco fare. Sure-fire betsincludethe garlicsoup, sis atthispopulareatery isonmeatynorthern menú €11; €10) La Campanilla Eating walk northeast of thetowncentre, withthree (€6.40, 1¾hours). hours) mostdays, andtwogotoPamplona The &Away There Getting theboxedArco (see text, above ). venue withamore laidbackstyle isTetaría el open intothesmallhours. Another late night big sounds,isapopularlocalplacethatstays Café intotheneighbouringand trickleoff lanes. Lively deGilBerges bars late-night lineCalle Entertainment for €12 are adecent amust.Italsodoes sine (trout). La Cadiera The ElPortón Restaurante For good tapas, headto For goodtapas, menú €15; sadelarco.net; CalledeSanNicolás4;2-/3-course shared bathrooms€18/36). doubles andtriples€50,singles/doubleswith otherworldly,also(singles,are cheerfully events venue. andisagoodlate-night Rooms stages occasionalmusicsessionsandother is anicelittlebar,theTetaría elArco,which ambience inthisfriendlyplace. Downstairs carefully sourced.There’s alovely alternative with imagination andflair. Allingredients are of excellentvegetarian foodthatisprepared mountains ofJaca,LaCasa delArcoisahaven La Casa delArco AUTHOR’S CHOICE Fillupwithahearty,good-value lunch at versions of Aragonese fare. Reservations versions of fare. Aragonese Reservations (Plaza Marqués de la Cadena2) (Plaza Marqués bus station train station . h (lamb), closed Wed afternoon &Mon) closed Wedafternoon Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com nv ( ( % % ( % 974 35 55 59; Calle de Domingo Miral 19; 974 355559;CalledeDomingoMiral 974 361448;CalleEscuelasPías8;menú migas h ( ) % 974 355060;PlazadeBiscós) ( Among themeat-eating or % Located inalittletree- closed Tue) ( 974 361332) % 974 364448;www.laca and La Nicolasa 974 35 58 54; Plaza Marqués 974 355854;PlazaMarqués , asmallplacewith Casa Fau trucha delaVal . is a half-hour isahalf-hour Theempha- menú del día menú deldía ( % ( haute-cui- % 974 3554 974 36 isat .com) The N330leadsnorthfromJaca, viathepretty AROUND JACA and twonorthtoCanfranc-Estación. trains dailysouthtoHuescaandZaragoza, lonelyplanet.com ( The comparatively smallresort of FORMIGAL & PANTICOSA Canfranc-Estación. danchú andAstún (€2.25, 45minutes), via ally more expensive thaninCandanchú. accommodation ismore limited andgener- 42km of pistes are largely forcapableskiers; www.astun.com inSpanish) that anothergoodresort, with general stores andski-hire shops. The smalltownisreasonably wellequipped apartments,andfourcheapseveral three hotels, one ers. includes AccommodationinCandanchú pistes make itappealingtomostgradesof ski- north of Jaca. Some42km of widelyvaried the reputation of theresort, which is28km Winter SportsFestival. likely toboost Itseems open at A major winter isscheduled sportsstadium to CANDANCHÚ & ASTÚN gear inJaca. well asequipmentforhire. Youcanalsorent resorts have skiandsnowboardschools, as information numbers andwebsites. Allthe of resorts, these theresort youcancontact To helpwithbookingaccommodationinany Resorts Ski forPau,or buses France. and Oloron-Ste-Marie, connectingwithtrains three continuetotheVallée dailybuses d’Aspe viaHuescaandJacaZaragoza stophere and than necessity,however. Twotrainsadayfrom reopening theline;it’smore outof nostalgia an accidentin1970.There of isongoingtalk after French unilaterally halted theservice principal connectionwithFranceuntilthe second-largest Foryears station. itwasSpain’s style.Modernista AtthetimeitwasEurope’s tion’s distinctive architecture reflected the 25km. Openedin1928,thisenormoussta- nel intoFrancepassing Río Aragón valley, totheSomportroadtun- % Five head fromJaca dailybuses toCan- One advantage of is visitingCandanchú 974 487248; www.panticosa-loslagos.com inSpanish) forthe2007EuropeanYouthOlympic Candanchú THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••AroundJaca (THE THENORTH pensión ( % , isjust3kmeast.Astún’s 974 373194;www.candanchu Canfranc-Estación (small, private hotel), Astún ( % 974 373088; albergues Panticosa after , . overhanging lipof rockatabendintheroad. Viejo is built, perhaps used by ChristianViejo isbuilt,perhaps used Mozarabic lowerchurch was constructed. a monastery inthe 10th century,when the hermits asearly the8thcentury,became Viejo. andMonasteriodown toMonasterio Nuevo takesboarded atMonasterio people Nuevo, tery). Atbusytimesashuttlebus(€2),first (NewMonas- near theMonasterio Nuevo rio Viejoforanother1.3kmtothe carpark have tocontinueuphillfrom theMonaste- the wholebanana,amiablybutfirmly.You of parking;there’s ahardteam organising think June,JulyandAugustdon’teven Santa, the Monasterio Viejo;butduringSemana may beable toparkontheroadsidenear of 350m.Atvery quiettimesof yeardrivers monastery inabout1½hours, withanascent Cruztothe GR65.3.2) leadsupfromSanta For walkers, 4kmmarked path(the astiff Mar) & 4-5.30pmTue-Sun 16Oct-15 10am-2.30pm&4-8pmJunAug, 11am-2pm Oct, 1 Sep-15 €4.50; Santa María admissioninclIglesiade 19; www.monasteriosanjuan.com; to the winding roadclimbstheSierradelaPeña covers bustransportfromthevillage. Maríade Santa inthevillage for€6,which also a jointticket forthemonastery andtheIglesia is another7kmuphillfromhere. Youcanbuy village 4kmsouthof theN240.Themonastery the monastery is reachable bypublictransport.Gateway to monastery –but,like anyeagle’snest,it’snot of Jaca, thisisAragón’smostfascinating eyrie21kmsouthwest inamountain High deSanJuanlaPeña Monasterio hours). over toPanticosa andFormigal(€4.70,two as well57kmof skirunsand22lifts. including restaurants, bars, discosandsaunas, tions. Here youhave thefullrange of facilities, .formigal.com) than Panticosa, aranuala skirunisamustforadeptskiers. aren’t andthenearly2kmMaz- toodifficult 10km furthernorth.TherunsatPanticosa a bigger counterpart, Formigal,which isabout northeast of BiescasintheGállegovalley,has The rockshelter where theMonasterio endless, Cruz,aseemingly From Santa A livelier placewithfarmore infrastructure From Jaca, wind oneortwodailybuses Monasterio Viejo Monasterio isaregular hostfor skicompeti- h Formigal Santa CruzdelaSerós 10am-2pm & 4-7pm 16 Mar-31 May & May 10am-2pm &4-7pm16Mar-31 (Old Monastery; ( % tucked underan , 974 490000;www % , apretty 974 3551

439 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN .santacruzdelaseros.com; CalleOrdana;rinclbreakfast €51) tower. beautyandyoucanclimbthehas astark tensive restoration forsometime. By2007 the twovillages, of adistance about 9.5km. road, improved andresurfaced in 2006,links are furtherupeither of nobuses thevalleys.A urday, returning fromJaca at6.50pm.There at 6.53amandEcho at7am, MondaytoSat- Aragués-Jasa sonable map/guide,such asPrames’ on walkingandexploringthearea. Take area- further east. tourism thanthemore territory spectacular alessconspicuous a gentle touch anddeserve beautifulvalleys;theyencourage these through triumphantlyattheirheads.Goquietly rise leys narrowtothenorth,2000m-pluspeaks pine, rowan,elmandhazeland,astheval- tuate slopes of mixed dense woodsof beech, magicatitsbest.Oldstonevillagestain punc- The verdant Echo and Ansó valleysare moun- VALLES DEECHO&ANSÓ and there’s agood mainlymeatdishes(€7.50to€15) rant serves andlovely rooms.Itsrestau- friendly service near thechurch, isabeautifulplacewith & 4-7pm;admission€2) Romanesque museum. kingsandanarchaeologyto theAragonese commodation, alarge visitors centre devoted its three buildingsmayhave Mar) Tue-Sun 16Oct-15 10am-2.30pm &4-8pmJunAug, 11am-2pm&4-5.30pm ( brick furtherupthehill. the oldmonastery andbuildanewonein Christ. andthelife depictingGenesis ofcapitals 12th-and13th-century carved marvellous istheRomanesque highlight ied attheMonasterio Viejo. Thegreatest Pedro I(1094–1104)–are bur- amongthose I (1036–64),Sancho (1064–94)and Ramírez was builtabove itinthelate 11thcentury. kingdom of Aragón.A Romanesque church and organisational centre of themedieval The monastery emerged astheearlyspiritual 440 h In Santa Cruz de la Serós, the11th-century CruzdelaSerós, In Santa A bustoJaca leaves Ansóat6.30am,Siresa Most places to stay haveMost placestostay goodinformation A fire in1675ledthemonkstoabandon The first three kingsof Aragón–Ramiro 10am-2pm & 4-7pm 16 Mar-31 May & 1 Sep-15 Oct, Oct, &1Sep-15 May 10am-2pm &4-7pm16Mar-31 THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) ••Valles deEcho&Ansó (THE THE NORTH Hostelería SantaCruz Hostelería orAlpina’s Iglesia deSantaMaría has been undergoing hasbeen ex- dominates thevillage. It menú deldía Ansó-Echo ( % Monasterio Nuevo Monasterio parador 974 361975;www cloister ( (€12). h . Ansó-Echo 10am-2pm -style ac- , with , 37 5028;CruzAlta1;s/d€30/47) menú deldía lodging, alsohasadecentrestaurant witha €45; ground. & 5-8pm) from the1920sand1930s. a terrific swatheof photographs of villagers busy Restaurante Gaby. busy Restaurante above themuch-lauded andusuallyvery charming they’re rooms,although right Blasquico Casa Mazo Casa of thevillage istheendearing Libre and alongsideisthe front of thebuildingsportsacheerful mural ment artgalleryof changing exhibitions.The the tains Jul-Oct) h 05; www.valledehecho.net inSpanish;Carretera Ozas/n; sculptures andahillsidesculpture park. intheformofcharming artisticriff, street and flower-bedecked balconies.There’s a warren of roofs withsteep solidstonehouses the biggest village inthevalley,anattractive It’syou’ll have season. companyinthehigh Lovely Echo isaplacetolinger in,although 833m pop 650/elevation Echo (Hecho) sion €1.50; midable, 11th-century is anothercharming village. Itboaststhefor- A coupleof kilometres northof Echo, Siresa 850m pop 133/elevation &Around Siresa €4/4/4; Valle deHecho Echo hasonlyafew options. sleeping The very helpful Oct; Oct; .com inSpanish;s/dinclbreakfast €45/60; Hotel Usón AUTHOR’S CHOICE offers excellent home-cooked meals.offers excellent home-cooked are great booksinplenty.The restaurant buttheretends tothetotalabsenceofTVs; on theroadto Selva deOza. Peace ex- ofSiresahigh intheEchovalley,5kmnorth lous surroundingsatthisoutstandingplace, 10am-1.30pm &5.30-8pmMon-Sat, h , ahillsidesculpture park.Attheheart isinawonderfulbuildingthatalsocon- pn s usually closed1sthalfSep) , withdisplaysonrurallife including h Museo de Arte Contemporáneo deArte Museo ) (Calle Aire; admission€1; is a pleasant, well-kept isapleasant, camping 11am-1pm &5-7pm,closedWedafternoon) ) for€9.Southof town, There’s peaceinfabu- perfect ( ( % % ( % 974 375361;sitesperadult/tent/car 974 375007;PlazadelaFuente 1;r 974 375358;www.hoteluson tourist office tourist Museo de Escultura al Aire deEsculturaalAire Museo Iglesia deSanPedro Hotel delaVal Hotel , abigchalet-type has a half-dozen hasahalf-dozen h lonelyplanet.com Museo Etnológico Etnológico Museo h 10.30am-1.30pm ( h % 10am-2pm Sun Easter- Camping Camping 974 3755 , abase- ( % (admis- 974 , -siresa.com s/n;bunksincl in Spanish&French; CalleReclusa breakfast €12.50,sheets€1.50; Aragón’s earliestmonasteries. partofwhich originallycomprised oneof lonelyplanet.com v Magoria togrowoutof it,thedelightful seeming but mainlyinSpanish. in thetownhallandhaslotsof information, 25; PlazaMayor; a bankandATM. The the mainsquare, PlazaMayor, where there is the village. Agridof narrowstreets surrounds a partlycovered streambed. alongalowescarpmentaboveAnsó straggles ested upwards fromwhere slopesclimbever making apleasingchecker-board pattern. For- are of red tiles.Somewallsare whitewashed herestone houses are in grey stone,theirroofs placesandharmony.Therough-hewn high Ansó takes furtherintoaworldof youeven 860m pop 540/elevation Ansó day ascents. peaks sitinanarctothenorthforstrenuous and Zuriza. Atleasthalfadozen mountain GR11 pathenroute Candanchú between road ends,shortlyafter itconnectswiththe the area. About 14kmfromSiresa thepaved burial chambers thatare located throughout plays, inSpanish,abouttheprehistoric stone 11am-2pm&4-6.30pmmid-Sep–mid-Jun)Sep, Megalitismo from Siresa isthe thickwoodlands.Aboutway through 6km to RíoAragónSubordánasitbubblesits ly beautiful,withtheroadrunningparallel This topendof theValle deEcho isparticular- deOza Selva día restaurant agood in-house does rurales modern, butallspotless.Italsohas rather old-fashioned, others pine-cladand s/d €38/50) ( per day)andhasalibrary. available. Italsorents bikes mountain (€12 tion incleanconditions,withothermeals providing bunk-and-breakfast accommoda- % Adjoining the rough-walled church Adjoining therough-walled and There’s acarparkbefore youturnupinto Siresa Albergue ) (€13.50). iscrammed withcharacter and lovingly kept 974 375313;www.castillodacher.com; PlazaMayor; (doubles €27)inthevillage. Thebig ( % has a pleasant mixof hasapleasant rooms,some ( 974 37 00 49; Calle Milagros 32; s/d €35/48-53; 32;s/d€35/48-53; 974 370049; CalleMilagros h h 11am-2pm &4.30-8.30pmmid-Jun–mid- 9am-1.30pm &5-8pmEasterJul-Sep) THE NORTH (THE PYRENEES) •• Sos del Rey Católico PYRENEES) ••SosdelRey (THE THENORTH ( % Centro de Interpretación del deInterpretación Centro /fax 974375385;www.albergue tourist office tourist n isacheerful hostel ) Hotel Castillo d’Acher Castillo Hotel ( % , withdis- menú del 974 3702 Posada Posada casas casas is rooms. add tothegeneral comfortandcharm of the hasretained anumberofhouse oldfeatures to craftsman ownerof thislovingly restored stone €2.40/1.20) Sos andthelife of theking.Theadmission 80; Calle Meca; per personunder/over26yr €13.50/17) 80; CalleMeca; Católico SosdelRey Juvenil Albergue Sleeping &Eating Martín deTours chapel. price includesatourof theadjoiningSan Sun Sep-May) 10am-2pm &4-7pmSat Aug, 10am-1pm&4-7pmWed-Fri, in Spanish;PlazaHispanidad; ist office Palacio deSada Casa holders.as light with terrific frescoes andhuge woodenbirds hasadeliciouslygloomycrypt esque portal, 5.30pm) San Esteban crowns thehilltop,andGothic EAlfaro.post office inCalle overrun withvisitors. summer weekends andholidays Soscanbe overhung withdeeply stone houses eaves. On dark between ing, cobbled lanesthatwriggle townisagloriousmazeofmedieval twist- prisingly known,is80kmwestof Jaca. Theold lumbus –andof thedreaded Inquisition. Spain andwere patronsof Christopher Co- last Muslimkingdomof Granadaandunited Theyconquered(Los ReyesCatólicos). the became knownasthe MonarchsCatholic Aragón. He andhiswife, Iof Isabel Castilla, dable doubleactsinhistory, Fernando IIof was theotherhalfof oneof themostformi- Born inthishandsomehilltopvillage in1452 625m pop 610/elevation SOS DELREYCATÓLICO decenttapas. popular placeserving top endof thevillage inthemain street andis ww.casabareton.com; CallePascual Altemir16;s/d€27/41) are catered fortoo. At cally sourcedvegetarian dishes,whilevegans you canenjoyanexcellent€12 edge. Inthekitchen by acharming familywithlotsof localknowl- Bar Zuriza Sos, asthevillage isuniversally andunsur- Fernando tohave issaid borninthe been The keep of the There’s abank inPlazadelMesón anda belowit,withaweathered Roman- , withfineexhibitsonthehistoryof ( % andan ( (admission €1.50; 4 88 4 www.sosdelreycatolico.com 948 888524; % 639 28 45 90; Mayor 71) 639 284590;Mayor , now containing the , nowcontaining interpretive centre centre interpretive Castillo delaPeña FelicianoCastillo Casa Baretón Casa comedor h 10am-2pm &4-8pmJun- h (dining room) (diningroom) 10am-1pm &3.30- menú ( % ( isnearthe % 974 37 01 38; 974 370138; of organi- (adult/child Iglesia de 948 8884 Enjoy

, the , the 441 tour- ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN style fitswiththerest of Sos. selves, thisgrandbuildingismodern,butits justhavethat might LosReyesthem- pleased Calle Arquitecto SainzdeVicuña1;s/d€103/129) Calle Arquitecto s/n; s/d€18/35,half-board€28/54) delight. delight. Río , isAlbarracín, amedieval and tucked hillcountryabove awayin deep chitecture you’ll findanywhere inthecountry, a storehouse of someof thebestMudéjarar- aretowns andvillages. Amongthese Teruel, matic landscape,alongwithsomeintriguing or southeastandyou’llencounter amore dra- inviting ridges; headfurther south however, are eitherdrearyZaragoza plainsor bald,un- ofsweeps countrysideimmediately southof Flat bynature andflatbyappeal,thevast THE SOUTH to Friday.Itreturns fromSosat7am. at7pmMonday the oldElPortillotrainstation (€8.50)departsfrombelow Sos delReyCatólico A &Away There Getting country fare. thathasagood taurant simple, butdecentroomsandapopularres- of thevillage isthisdown-to-earthplacewith available, andallmealsare served. stylishdécor.has bright, Free bicyclerental is modern conditionsatthisexcellenthostel that arestored towerinsuperb medieval life in 442 Gomez Católico Parador deSosdelRey Fonda Fernandina stuffed pigs’trotters (€10.60). with prawns(€12.60)andmushroom- twist, whippingupdishessuchaspigeon that gives traditionalingredients afresh with aviewtoswoonover, offers cuisine out ofthriftshops. fishedgleaming bathtubsandbohoobjects withplumpmattresses,style andcomfort, rooms offering arefreshing blendofvivid ing managementthisterrific placehasthree Ironically named‘The Witches’byitscharm- 25;s/d€40/50; .com inSpanish;CalleMayor As Bruixas AUTHOR’S CHOICE Its similarlypostmoderndiningroom, THE SOUTH••Daroca ( % 976 675529) ( % 948 888415;www.asbruixas ( % bus from Zaragoza to to busfromZaragoza 948 88 81 20; Plaza del Mesón 948 888120;PlazadelMesón menú deldía Atthesouthend ( % 948 888011; Aplace of hearty a ) and exhibitions, is on the –Bello road road and exhibitions, isontheTornos–Bello excellent information, in several languages, excellent information,inseveral Nov &Feb, Sat&Sunonlyrest ofyear) h .com/posadadelalmudi inSpanish;Grajera5;s/dinclbreakfast internet accesstoo. town andalongtheoldwalls.There’s free including English,aboutwalksroundthe fice Renaissance by thelarge Romanesque-cum-Mudéjar-cum- tive mainsquare, PlazadeEspaña,dominated midway alonganduptothewestisattrac- gates.main street, monumental About through Mayor, andenter Calle highway thecobbled north orsouth,youslipquietlyawayfromthe nally boastedtowers. 114military Comingfrom remnants of once-extensive walls,which origi- above andontheircrests are thecrumbling Teruel thatskirtsit.Rockyhillsstand highway torrentthe traffic of theN234Calatayud– quarter isladenwithhistoricreferences. old wars Itswell-preserved againstCastilla. Aragón’s fortress townintheearlymedieval laterMuslim stronghold becameChristian anonymous countryside. Thisone-time hidden awayasitisincentralAragón’soften Daroca issomethingof awell-kept secret, pop 2250 DAROCA Interpretación cranes andmanyother water fowl.A summer). It’sawinter home forsome70,000 itcan almostdryupin about 15sqkm(though is Spain’slargest naturallake, with anarea of westofdistance on theN234,this Calamocha Some 20kmsouthof Darocaandasimilar LAGUNA DEGALLOCANTA andTeruel,Zaragoza MondaytoSaturday. Mayor aday,runto at Calle 104.Fourbuses bles €20/35). to Daroca. It alsohasbasicrooms(singles/dou- €10) Legido rante good traditionalcuisine. wooden beams.Anattached restaurant offers rooms retain someoldfeatures includingbig today isanattractive Itscomfy placetostay. €42/60) Buses stopoutsidetheMesónBuses Félixbar, La PosadadelAlmudí There’s lotsof enthusiasmatthe Daroca liesinavalley,neatlyside-stepping Big meatdishesare thefavourite at 10.30am-2pm &4.30-7.30pm) , a roadside eatery at the northern entrance , aroadsideeatery atthenorthernentrance ( % wasaone-time16th-centurypalaceand 976 800129;www.daroca.info; PlazadeEspaña4; ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % Iglesia Colegiata deSantaMaría Iglesia Colegiata ( % 976 80 01 90; Carretera 234, Km220; menú 976 800190;Carretera 234,Km220;menú 978 725004; ( % 976 800606;www.staragon , where youcanget , with information , withinformation h lonelyplanet.com 10am-2pm & 4-8pm 10am-2pm &4-8pm tourist of- tourist Centro de de Centro Restau- . pop 31,000 / elevation 917m pop 31,000/elevation TERUEL cranes gather. Take binoculars. near thesoutheastcornerof thelake where the lonelyplanet.com lim hands.WhentheChristiansgotroundto 1230s campaigntowrest Valencia fromMus- forJaimeoperational base Iof Aragóninhis by Alfonso IIof Aragónin1171,itbecamean in nearbyAlbarracín.Taken forChristendom part of aMuslim During the11thcenturyTeruel wasbriefly History antiquity. and commerciallife thatcomplementsall casco viejo andthe absorbing museums city hasseveral striking MudéjarmonumentsinSpain.The Aragón, boastssomeof themostornate and its hilltopsite, above theflatlandsof southern history are on palpable;thisancientcapital and economicpotential. Theculture andthe asacitywithculturalattitude itself asserting mainstream renaissance, Teruel isfastre- asbeingoutsideSpain’s Too longdismissed

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Roundthis by JuandeÁvaloswiththeirheadstilted They lieinmodernalabaster tombs,sculpted themummifiedremainscontains of thepair. frustrated. TheMausoleum of theLovers €5; Amantes which undertheumbrella of the delosAmantes Mausoleo flagshipattractionistheredesigned Teruel’s FUNDACIÓN AMANTES coats of armsandChrist’scrucifixion. musical instrumentsandhuntingscenesto cosmography–from add uptoamedieval roof of thenave iscovered withpaintingsthat Inside,thecofferedRomanesque initsdetail. perb 13th-centurybelltowerhashintsof the brickwork andcolourfulceramictiles.Thesu- imagination atworkwithitskaleidoscopic Nov-Easter) adult/child €3/2; Teruel’s CATHEDRAL Sights lovers theirlove whodiedof griefatseeing end of andDiego, tragic13th-century Isabel pulls outthestopsoncity’sfamousleg- h THE SOUTH••Teruel 10am-2pm &4-8pmSep-Jul, 10am-8pmAug; ( Provincial Museum Provincial cathedral isarich exampleof the Mudéjar % is housed in the 16th-century Casa inthe16th-century Casa ishoused 978 61 83 98; Calle Matías Abad3;admission 978 618398;CalleMatías h 11am-2pm & 4-8pm Easter-Oct, 4-7pm 11am-2pm &4-8pmEaster-Oct, h ( % Torre deElSalvador Torre 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am- 10am-2pm &4-7pmTue-Fri, 978 618016;PlazadelaCatedral; and ( % deSanPedro Torre 978 600150;PlazaPo- h ( % 10am-2pm & 10am-2pm & Fundación 978 60 20 978 6020 , an , an w ) , of town. place hassimilarfacilitiesandisin theheart chainthe same astheHotel Plaza,thispricier de Salas5;s/dinclbreakfast €82/101; Plaza delTremedal 3;s/d€57/86; ground water-storage facility. of Teruel. Ángel 10 July)isthehubof theweek-long San Cristóbal the DiegoandIsabellegend dress and a foragalaevent ofsands Teruel’s donmedieval inhabitants to14February,On theweekend closest thou- Festivals &Events robots. animated dinosaur timespicedupwith tripthrough motorised the Valencia is‘ElRide’,a road.Ahighlight from thetowncentre, wellsignposted justoff &Sep–mid-Oct) Mar-Apr &Jun,Fri-Sun May child €18/14; theme park It’s funforallatthislarge, modern DINÓPOLIS & 4.30-7pm) yCajal;adult/child€1/0.60; 03; CalleRamón metrolike entrancetothe At theentrancetoPlazadelToricois ALJIBE FONDERO of contemporary art. andtherehighlight, are changing exhibitions architecture. are Thearchaeological sections a from La Tabernafrom La deRokelin, here youcan enthusiasm. eating andpromotes its local TeruelLandlocked tomeat isfairlydevoted Eating café-bar attached. San Juan,agoodchoice. There’s auseful makes thisplace,inaquietlocationoff Plaza business comfort,butwithafriendlyvibe, is advised. street. Bookingatweekends and onholidays wood-panelled roomsandonanarrowside €24/42) Hostal Aragón Sleeping Jamones Rokelin Hotel Torico Plaza Torico Hotel Plaza Hotel , which commemorates thefounding Anunassumingplacewithwell-kept , afascinating14th-centuryunder- ( h % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (StChristopher’sDay,heldon ( ( % % 10am-8pm Jul–mid-Sep, Wed-Sunonly 10am-8pm Jul–mid-Sep, 902 448000;www.dinopolis.com; adult/ 978 61 18 77; Calle Santa María 4;s/d 978 611877;CalleSantaMaría 978 608655;www.bacohoteles.com; (Calle del Rincón 2) (Calle delRincón ( % 978 608655;CalledeYagüe aiw se lf . The left). (see aiw Aljibe lonelyplanet.com re-enactment of re-enactment Upthestreet jamón ( % h . It’s3km ) Standard Standard 978 6199 ) 10am-2pm Part of dinosaur Feria del Feria with Día de Torre deElSalvadoropposite. cially intheupstairs barwithitsviewsof the and isalsogoodforlate-night drinks,espe- this stylish placehasalively morningscene of therestaurant complexof name, thesame strong emphasisonregional cui- Aragonese plates withplentifulcurlsof of enormoussalad meatdishes,butalsodoes down restaurant thatoffers thewholerange chorizo pheric placethatrunsthegamutof of smoked thepaceatoneof pighockssets Tozal 33;tapa/raciónofham€3.50/12) worthofcheeses foraweek’s picnics. load upwithsmoked and meats,sausages lonelyplanet.com hours), withthree trainseach waydaily. (€11.35, three hours) and Valencia (€10.20, 2½ destination sections. see daily, exceptSunday. Formore localservices celona (€23.70,sixhours) andCuenca (€8.70) to/fromBar- Rápidaoffershours). La service to/fromMadridand fourbuses (€17.50,4½ from Valencia (€8.40,2¼hours) mostdays, (€9, 2½hours). Samarrunsfive to/ buses runs uptofive daily to/from Zaragoza buses From Teruel’s &Away There Getting rock bandsatweekends. ofstables avery oldinn. There are exuberant place inwhich tounwind.Itwasformerlythe ground-floor barisarough-and-ready old Fonda delTozal Drinking dishes tothefore. placewithmeatandgame sine atthispleasant menú €11,maindishes€14-20; with mushrooms. andcod dishes such asquailinafruitysauce its café ( below thestakes onstylewith ) raises vador, thissmartrestaurant withattached €12-18) dishes €7-15) €3.50/12) part of theRokelin chain. Teruel’s bars. bestandmostpopulartapas It’s nouveau cuisine Aragonese, La Taberna deRokelin Mesón Óvalo Mesón La Torre Rokelin Asador Aqui Teruel! Teruel Zaragoza isontherailwaybetween LaTorre Café Right oppositeRight theTorre deElSal- Lots of choices atthisquietlyatmos- and Yet more Rokelin at this useful sit- useful Yet more Rokelin atthis ( % morcilla ( (Calle deYagüe deSalas4;tapa/ración bus station 978 617376;CalleElSalvador;dishes % 5) (Calle delRincón ( THE SOUTH •• Rincón deAdemuz THESOUTH••Rincón ( % % 978 617376;CalleElSalvador) 978 618235;Paseo delÓvalo8; 978 60 93 63; Calle Ramón yCajal7; 978 609363;CalleRamón (blackpudding). h ( ( % % closed Mon) 978 786060;CalleEl 978 610789) jamón. The cavernous Agreat rack withsubtle There’s a , Tezasa jamón, Part Tourist office Tourist Post office behind anirongrill,justoffPlazaMayor. There are acoupleof banks,onewithanATM Information centuries-old buildingsleaningover them. town’s streets retain theirmazelike charm, with upthesurroundingslopes andthe walls stillrise fortress andAragón.Ragged, Castilla between independent Christiankingdomsandwiched dynasty.From1170to1285itwasan Razin a tinyIslamicstate ruledbythe Banu Berber of Albarracín was,from1012to1104,theseat outbyameanderof RíoGuadalaviar, carved fellow travellers. rockyheight Builtonasteep, ofmodern onslaught summercoach tours and patent inthislovely hilltown,inspite of the of timelessnessthatisstill sense marvellous of Teruel, butit’sworthit,notleastforthe It takes time toget to Albarracín, 38km west 1180m pop 1060/elevation ALBARRACÍN outside. and holidays)Valencia (twicedaily)stop to/from Teruel (oneaday,exceptSunday rooms andthere’s arestaurant Buses attached. cia 1;s/d€32/55) de Cuencaenroute toCuenca. muz skirtsthesouthernhillsof theSerranía Manzaneruela CruzdeMoya. toSanta N420, or,ifcomingfromthesouththrough Torrebaja atthejunctionof theN330and toheadintoAdemuzvia N330, soyouneed bythemain isbypassed Ademuz townitself) (and fashion.Thissection in quite spectacular Mancha intoCastilla-La Turia, theroadcrosses gorgealong thedeepening of theupperRío of CruzdeMoya. AdemuztoSanta Starting ing 17kmof theoldN330A,southof thetown stretchmost spectacular andwind- istherough town andValencia orCuencaprovinces. The picturesque alternative routeTeruel between Mancha). Itmakes and Cuenca(Castilla-La a lencia province theprovinces between of Teruel detachedpieceofCorner’, amountainous Va- Sierra delaMatanza andenters the‘Ademuz Heading southfromTeruel, theN330crosses RINCÓN DEADEMUZ the approach stepsthatleadupfrom thecarpark. IntheCasa de laSierra,atthetopof except Sunafternoon) Calle Diputación4; Hostal Casa Domingo Hostal Casa The N420westfromtheRincóndeAde- (Calle delaCatedral) ( , inAdemuz,haswell-kept, comfy % h 978 710251;www.albarracin.org; 10am-2pm &4-7pmTue-Sun ( % 978 782030;Avenida Valen-

445 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN and the Islamic heritage. tothetown’s isdevoted the oldcityhospital, €2; Puentes 8;s/d€30/40) 6pm except Sun afternoon, until8pmJul-Sep) 6pm exceptSunafternoon, 446 and are above arestaurant. rooms do notenjoythefull Albarracíncharm, adequate just belowthetunnel entrance,these and take thefirst roaduptotheright. thetunnel underthetown tion, passthrough de Molina. IfdrivingfromtheTeruel direc- Portal deSantiagoandexitingthrough Calle about 250mfromPlazaMayor, along starting some withbalconiesandgorgeous views.It’s €25/40) .montepalacios.com inSpanish;CalleLosPalacios 21;s/d person chalets for€55. road.Italsohastimbered four- theBezas off ing groundis2kmfromtheheartof Albarracín, h www.campingalbarracin.com; sitesperperson/tent/car€3/3/3; it’s worthbookingahead. For weekends insummerandallholidaytimes Sleeping &Eating office at11am,12.45pmand4.30pm. for €3.50,departingfromoutsidethetourist core Albarracín’smedieval walks through El Andador Tours colour, particularlyintheevening. of red orpink,makingforwonderfulplaysof of intheplaceissomeearthyshade mortar brick, stone,slabevery of concrete andslap then justenjoyexploringthestreets. Nearly to theTorre delAndadorforfinepanoramas, post.Walkup Muslimmilitary an important the 9thcentury,whenAlbarracínwasalready the topof thewallsatnorth,bothdate from objets d andreligiouscentury paintings,tapestries, Diocesano Museo Palace), towhich the it’sconnected, houses ThePalacioaltarpiece. Episcopal(Bishop’s hasanelaborate gilded of theSpanishLevant, until8pmJul-Sep) afternoon, The Sights The castle, nearthesouthernendof town, h Camping CiudaddeAlbarracín Camping Hotel Mesón delGallo Mesón Hotel Habitaciones LosPalacios The Apr-Oct) cathedral 10.30am-1pm &4-5.30pmexceptSunafternoon) Thischarming place has spotlessrooms, THE SOUTH••ElRodeno Museo deAlbarracín Museo Torre delAndador Torre ’ art Pleasant, smallandshaded,thecamp- Pleasant, ( % . ( 667 260601) h (admission €2; Below themaintown,and Below 10.30am-2pm &4-6pmexceptSun , withitscupolatypical ( (Walkway Tower), at (WalkwayTower),at % conducts1½-hour (Calle SanJuan;admission ( 978 710032;Calledelos % h 978 700327;www ( 10.30am-2pm &4- % , with16th- 978 71 01 97; 978 710197; , in stylish andcomfy. Molina (MolinaGateway). Itsfive roomsare lovingly restored de andisby thePortal been thisplacehas typical Albarracíntownhouse, Teruel at8.45am. minutes) at3.30pm,andfromAlbarracínfor cept Sunday,fromTeruel forAlbarracín(30 Autotransportes Teruel leave buses daily,ex- &Away There Getting offeringtaurants central eatery. wild boarandothergame,isonoffer atthis binados €6-9) deMolina23;s€33,d€45-70) CallePortal -adarve.com; less youhave alotof avehicle. time,you need exploring, welloff the beaten track, butun- Thisiswonderfulcountry for own devices. stone gorges, amongwhich thequiet and ancient bleached mazeof rockypeaksanddramatic of Teruel intotheValencia region present a populatedThe sparsely ranges stretching east THE SOUTHEAST information. Tue-Sun exceptSunafternoon) .albarracin.org; CalleDiputación4; Albarracín from 2.2kmto15km,traverse thezone; groups. Five key trails,varying indistance There are 12lotsof infive paintingsintotal, Rodeno knownasthe deer, Neolithic rockpaintingsof bulls,horses and of nearaseries passes racín towardsBezas The backroadleadingsoutheastfromAlbar- RODENO EL La Taberna Posada delAdarve All theaccommodationoptionshave res- for €18. zone. Thecomfort restaurant hasa You step offthestreet intoanimmediate old townafew steps upfromPlazaMayor. ofthego withit,theCasa liesattheheart to tiled floorsandwithcharmingservice beautiful place,withlotsofexposedwood, Casa deSantiago AUTHOR’S CHOICE desantiago.net; SubidaalasTorres 11;s/d€48/64) pueblos , amongboulder-strewn countryside. Standard mountain fare, mountain Standard including Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( tourist office tourist % (villages) seem tobelefttheir (villages) seem 978 70 03 17; Plaza Mayor 6;platoscom- 978 700317;PlazaMayor menús Conjunto de Arte Rupestre del Rupestre Conjunto deArte ( ( % % gives outmapsand 978 700316;www.casa 978 700304;www.posada from €10to€14. ( % h 978 710251;www lonelyplanet.com 10am-2pm &4-7pm menú A A 18th-century mansion.At 44 3373;Fuentenueva 10;s/d€25/39) best-preserved (andpartlyrestored)best-preserved partof of Templar. theKnights became aseat The was reputedly foundedbyHannibal. Itlater accommodation andagoodrestaurant. restaurant witha€27 rooms,andhasafine décor andcomfortable Plaza IgualyGil3;s/d€72/105) to with theirowntransportleads43kmsoutheast once dailyandoften notatallonweekends. mostplaces,butrarely more than serve Buses lonelyplanet.com decent stopover is PlazaCristoRey.A town istheporticoed ( with theclassy plaza littlemedieval town hall,sharingatight itschurch andold worth aquickvisittosee ( p607 province.) inCastellón Iglesuelais La domaincentred knightly onSantMateueval Here youhave entered ElMaestrazgo, amedi- Leones balconies.Thefriendly Aragonese have houses row streets whose typicallysmall is pretty very broadnave. deSantaMaría Ex-Colegiata Across thewayis15th-centuryGothic ofthe village red amidasea andpinkstone. sion €1.30; de Gudar. Amassive 14th-century % In thenorthof theregion is Mora deRubielos Another 14kmsoutheastalongtheA232 A worthwhileroute fromTeruel forthose surreal films;thedrums lefttheirimprint, alongwithataste forritual, costumesanddisguises. peasants.’ are stainedwithblood:hands bleedafter somuchbanging. And theseare therough handsof whenthesoundtrailsoff.lulled bythebanging, withastart awakes At dawn, thedrumskins tions. Nature followstherhythm…whichgoesonallnight.Anyonewhomanagestofall asleep, Suspiro totremble beneathourfeet’,conscious, causestheearth Buñuel recalls inhismemoir, drumming ragesallover theregion withdrumparadesatAlcañiz also. 24hours, onlyceasingforthepassageofstandardEasteron forthenext processions. The hora GoodFriday noonmarksthe lower Aragóntown,thefilmdirector’s birthplace, Luis Buñuel’s earliestmemorieswere ofthedrumsCalanda. Inthecenturies-oldritualof LUIS BUÑUEL&THEDRUMSOFCALANDA drums) and 964 44 34 76; Ondevilla 4;s/d€83/118; 964 443476;Ondevilla This itswayintoBuñuel’sdreams clamourworked andnightmares, andeventually intohis ‘The drums,thatamazing,resounding, cosmicphenomenon thatbrushesthecollective sub- (breaking ofthehour).At (breaking thatmomentthousandscommencebanging on ( % h (MyLastSigh).‘Onehasonlytoplace hishandonthewallofahousetofeel thevibra- Rubielos deMora 978 804477;www.losleones.info inSpanish; , 13km northwest of La Iglesuela, , 13kmnorthwestof La 10am-2pm &5-8pmTue-Sun) bombos THESOUTH••Calanda Hospedería delaIglesueladelCid inthefoothillsof theSierra Pensión Julián (bassdrums),togetherproducingathunderousdin.The ceremony goes menú hasattractive period , aquietwebof nar- , notable foritssingle , notable Casa Amada Casa you’ll find simple you’llfindsimple . La IglesueladelCid pw towers over ( % castle Hotel Los Hotel 964 1850 ( % in an inan ) (admis- 964 964 . Calle Mayor 48;admission€5; Calle Mayor landa isthe and Guadalopillo. Thechief reason tovisitCa- attheconfluenceofCalanda, RíosGuadalope theeast–westN211whiching tomeet leadsto of passPuertoSanJust(1400m)before descend- terrain, reachingmountainous heights thefoggy From Teruel, theN420heads norththrough CALANDA cañiz (see p448 ). whereand Alcorisa, youcanconnectforAl- toVillarluengo bus journeysfromCantavieja Mirambel. Yet anotherearlymorningweekday at5.45amboundforMorellaCantavieja via 6.15am. AnotherMonday-to-Fridaybusleaves Iglesuelaat direction, thebusdepartsfromLa (€6.75,1½hours). IntheoppositeCantavieja Iglesueladel Cid(€7.65,twohours) via La 3pm Monday-to-FridaybusfromTeruel to isthe One of themore busservices useful &Away There Getting rooms andsimple,butfilling,meals. Pastor 28;s/d€24/30,withoutbathroom€15/20) overnight stay out theusualmodern-dayadditions.Foran townwith- a gently decaying,walledmedieval andthenvia cliffs tavieja willtake you,snakingdownpastragged cian Maestrazgo, theA226northeastof Can- meals available. carriage yard.There are decenthome-cooked where youenter acavernous through old 05; Calle García Valiño05; CalleGarcía 6;dwith/withoutbathroom€27/18) If you’re headingforMorella intheValen- Centro BuñuelCalanda Centro Hostal Guimerá Mirambel h 10.30am-1.30pm & 4-8pm 10.30am-1.30pm &4-8pm , afineexampleof tambores ( % rompida dela ( 964 17 82 69; Calle 964 178269;Calle % Mi Ultimo has simple hassimple 978 84 65 24; 978 846524; (snare

447 ARAGÓN ARAGÓN ARAGÓN of triestoremain LuisBuñuel.Themuseum and useful foranovernightand useful stopifyou’re head- it’sanengaginglybusytown merce, although Aragón andisfairlyoverwhelmed bycom- Alcañiz istheadministrative centre forlower ALCAÑIZ hours) fromTeruel andAlcañiz. blocks east. Mayorpaña andfollowCalle three orfour on theedge of town.LookforPlazadeEs- andcolourful. is bright bythedirector.mentary Thedécorthroughout panied byscreenings of key scenesandcom- ofwith details all32of Buñuel’sfilms,accom- aficionados, afilmographyroomhascomputers images fromhisoeuvre into thetour. Fortrue theboxedtive (see text, p447 weaving ), cleverly faithful tothesurrealist spiritof na- theCalanda Tue-Sun) 448 Calanda is served by buses (€7.10,two bybuses isserved Calanda The museum is500mfromthebusstop The museum THE SOUTH••Alcañiz , a museum devoted to the life and films tothelife devoted andfilms , amuseum rooms andicestore. for views. parks ifyou’re driving. immediately forsignposted underground car en route Teruel between Look andBarcelona. andtwostophere (€8.90,2½hours)Zaragoza, balconies. withsturdy central choice oldhouse –atall, 87 0717;CalleEspejo3;s/d€30/50) passages ofcess to‘hiddenAlcañiz’,aseries ( has ahuge A baroque portal. Mayor & 4-6pm,laterinsummer) walls of the murals datingfromthe14thcenturycover the parador ing northorsouth.Thehuge castleisnowa h Of adozenlodgings, Up to four buses travelUp tofourbuses dailyto/from The monumental 10am-2pm &4-6pmexceptSunafternoon) dwarfsthecentralPlazadeEspañaand . A series of. Aseries vivid,intricately detailed (admission €2) keep (admission €4.50; , which canbeascended that was used asstore- thatwasused Iglesia de Santa María La IglesiadeSantaMaría Hostal Aragón isanexcellent, lonelyplanet.com h tourist office tourist 10am-1.30pm underground underground gives ac- ( % 978 lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake © LonelyPlanetPublications 449