Zahle, City of Gastronomy UNESCO Creative Cities Network Published by UNESCO Regional Office - with the support of the Municipality of Zahle

First edition October 2013

Based on the Idea of and under the supervision of Eng. Joseph Kreidi

Reseach & Content Chérine Yazbeck

Photography © Chérine Yazbeck

Design Chantal Coroller

Printing RAIDY

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT THE PRIOR PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.

THE PAPER USED IS RECYCLABLE

The ideas and opinions expressed herein are those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of UNESCO. TABLE OF CONTENT

1. MANAGEMENT TEAM P8 2. VISION P10 3. MISSION P12 4. GEOGRAPHY P14 5. COMMUNITY P16 6. STORY OF THE CITY P18 7. RESOURCES P26 8. CULTURE & TRADITION – poetry, literature, photography, painting… P34 9. ECONOMY P44 10. GASTRONOMY P54 11. FARMERS P76 12. THE GRAPE ROUTE: OF WINE AND ARAK P84 13. FESTIVALS & CULTURAL EVENTS P98 14. PARTNERSHIP P104

SOURCES P106 APPENDIX P106

7 owners, industrials, politicians, > From the Municipality of Zahle Aziz Wardy, owner of winery Wardy, 1. MANAGEMENT entrepreneurs, cultural main figures President of the Municipality: Joseph Zahle. TEAM and tourism experts who expressed a Maalouf ([email protected]) ([email protected]) great interest in joining the ‘Creative Elise Estephan Tamer, lawyer Jean-Paul Khoury, owner of winery The idea of Zahle joining the Cities Network’ that would put Zahle and teacher at Law University. Château Khoury, Zahle. ‘Creative Cities Network’ came up on the map and encourage the city to Chairwoman of Zahle Municipality. Sébastien Khoury, wine expert and naturally formulated by Joseph acquire a regional and international ([email protected]) owner of Domaine de Baal, Zahle. Kreidi, Programme Officer for status of gastronomic city. The Youssef Skaf, municipality ([email protected]) Culture at UNESCO-Beirut Office. two main zahliots that helped me counsellor Michel Mhanna, food specialist, fulfil this project are Khalil Geha, a owner of oldest Berdawni restaurant, Mr. Kreidi appointed Chérine Youssef Kerouni, lawyer and co- prominent figure of Zahle and Irène Mhanna, Zahle. Yazbeck, a local food culture owner of a press group. Alouf, owner of an eco-friendly Jean Arabi, mezze expert, owner of specialist to fulfil the task. Zahle has Samir Mallo, dentist, member of the organic boutique hotel in Zahle. This Casino Arabi, Berdawni, Zahle. been committed for over a century Municipality. achievement would also connect Pascal Nmeir, owner of Casino to the spread and recognition of Michel Ballech, lawyer & counsellor. Zahle to other cities that are already Nmeir, Berdawni, Zahle. traditional Lebanese food. Elias Chamoun, counsellor. part of the global network. Elie Ghattas, chef and owner of As a long-time gastronomy leader restaurants in Zahle. in the region, Zahle intends to The Team that will work on > Administration & culture of Clément Tannouri, Zahle develop the cultural food heritage the follow-up of this project is Zahle photographer, writer. (info@ with ambitious projects. With its composed of committed locals. Said Gédeon, executive at Bekaa clementtannouri.com) assets, Zahle aims to attract even Chambre of Commerce and Rosine Zahlaoui, founder of Artisan more visitors into the region by > Point Person Agriculture. ([email protected]) guild, Zahle. supporting the creative local food Chérine Yazbeck: Project Khalil Geha, CEO of Geha company, Kamil Skaff, owner of Skaff Farm. community. Coordinator and specialist of the history of Zahle. Barbara Abdeni Massaad, food [email protected] ([email protected]) writer, author of ‘Mouneh’. As the person responsible for the Lebanese food expert, food writer, Feyrouz Chamoun, founder of Zahle Nicolas abou Fayssal, owner of project, I have contacted the main journalist and photographer. Historic Museum. Gardenia Grain d’Or, food company, actors of the food industry working Author of ‘The rural taste of Zahle. hand in hand with the Municipality – a food heritage trail’, ‘Le > Food experts & hospitality Walid Mouzannar, member of of Zahle and at its head, Mr. Joseph Liban Gourmand’ (a foodie guide), Irène Alouf, owner of an organic L’Académie Internationale de la Maalouf. I met a substantial number ‘Le Liban Autrement’ (ecotourism guesthouse in Zahle. (irene@ Gastronomie, Lebanon. of farmers, small-scale producers, guide), ‘A Complete Insiders Guide beitelkroum.com) Kamal Mouzawak, founder of the foodies, restaurant owners, to Lebanon’ and the ‘Shouf Cedars Johayna Dawalibe, nutritionist in Farmer market, Souk el Tayeb. pastry shop owners, bakeries Reserve’ guidebook. Zahle

8 9 together with cities across the world to share its story and connect with many cultures as it has always proven to do throughout the centuries. It is even more significant now that the Middle East is going through turmoil and major changes in the scope of the Arab Spring. Zahle finds itself in the middle of this (re) evolutionary process. The aim of this application is to enable the city to push forward new diversification projects by attracting new contributors in many fields and mainly in the food sector. Zahle wishes to encourage and unite creative small-scale farmers, artisans and producers in order to acquire the local economy based on good and fair food alongside a sustainable and reliable farming. Residents of Zahle and to a certain extent the Bekaa residents have always been keen on safeguarding their traditions through handicrafts and the transmission of food heritage. They feel a certain pride in 2. VISION story and culture of the city that fair trade, exchange, know-how and the preservation of this expertise. lies at the crossroad of many routes. diversity. In the event of integrating Zahle to Gastronomy and Zahle are strongly Harvests, the land, the attachment ‘Creative Cities Network’, the city In the scheme of designing the connected since decades. Located in to local produces, the respect of would boost gastronomic programs project application to integrate Zahle the midst of the agricultural region Mother Nature, the connexion to the focused on the tradition linked to into ‘Creative Cities Network’, we of the Middle East, Zahle enjoys an region are elements that have been modern techniques. The incentive would like to establish the legacy ideal place whereby regional cultures driving Zahle for centuries. would draw the path of a renewed of Zahle as the heritage city for mingle and interact. Natural resources are essential yet active region whereby locally regional food. Unesco confidence ‘Creative Cities Network’ would assets to the city and they all end up produced food would be highly and focus on the city would certainly empower the strengths of the local designing a unique cultural profile. represented and promoted giving a initiate a general interest into the communities to join and improve Zahle has a strong will to come serious push to local economies.

10 11 3. MISSION

Zahle wishes to apply to ‘Creative Cities Network’ in order to boost the local economy driven mainly by its gastronomic assets. The city is already a main actor in the region when it comes to food heritage culture and would like to generate a global interest on the regional wealth, food. The city would enhance food related projects as well as investments in the sustainable food production. Indeed, the city intends to develop interests in fair and organic food processes that would draw a better future to the food industry alongside a healthier and environment driven agricultural economy. Zahle is a city with a strong rural identity. It is located at the heart of the Bekaa Plateau in a sparsely populated region. Zahle boasts a long-lasting culinary tradition with a stunning gastronomic culture based on locally produced sustainable food. The objective of being part of ‘Creative Cities Network Unesco’ is to place Zahle on the global map and to raise interest in preserving its regional input.

12 13 foothills of the mountain, at the valley into the plain and waters the outskirts spread vertically on steep 4. GEOGRAPHY Western edge of the Bekaa plateau, gardens of Zahle. hill slopes, and the town features an with Mount Sannine 2,628 metres Zahle has a delightful prospect of elevation difference of more than A blessed geographical location towering above it. It is on the brow the fertile plain – once referred to as 200 metres in a narrow geographical of a mountain of which there are “the grain warehouse of Rome” and area. Zahle is 50 kilometers far from sublime views of the extensive the surrounding outlook enhances it The Berdawni was at a time the Beirut, in the heart of the country at vale bounded on each side by lofty serene atmosphere. town’s source of drinking water and an equal distance between the north, mountains. The hills form a narrow valley, its most prized natural emblem. the south, the east and the west. Zahle is built in an inlet of the an extension of a ravine to the The river winds through the valley, Hence, it enjoys a strategic location mountain, on a steep ascent, northwest (“Wadi el Arayesh” or fringed with masses of foliage, in the most renowned fertile land. surrounded with vineyards. The Valley of Vines). in which tall and stately poplars Zahle is built upon a series of river Berdawni issues from a narrow Due to its unique topography, Zahle predominate the rich vineyards clothing the whole slopes of the mountains and wild glens that furrow their sides.

Climate

Zahle enjoys a Mediterranean climate characterized by hot and dry summers and cold and chilly winters, where most of the precipitation is concentrated. However, due to its high altitude and inland location, in the rain shadow of the Lebanon mountains, its climate features some continental characteristics: summers are hotter than coastal areas, with peaks of 38°C in summer together with low humidity. Temperatures fall below 20°C at night, which makes summer particularly pleasant compared to coastal cities. On the other hand, winters are cold. The north wind in the valley is so freezing that residents refer to it as a “break nails”. In the valley, temperatures can easily plummet below -10°C.

14 15 together in order to celebrate a Saint, a holy feast or simply to party.

Tucked away from Lebanon’s busy coastal centers, the people of Zahle have developed their own brand of individualism and way of doing things. The city’s reputation for intellectual dynamism comes from a long line of writers, thinkers and poets who have contributed to Lebanon’s cultural and political scene. Zahle is renowned in Lebanon for its high educational level. Many celebrities in poetry, arts, culture, literature all hail from this village- city. Among the most famous, Said Akl, Khalil Farhat, Michel Tard, Riyad Maalouf or Joseph Abitaan.

Families in Zahle own a ‘karake’ – a homemade arak distil. They distil arak thanks to a know-how passed down on to generations. Arak is sometimes referred to as ‘arak zahlaoui’ and the ‘zahliot’ (of Zahle) expression is well known: ‘Zahle, Zahle - Zahletna wa churbe el arak adetna, wa l Berdawni mayetna’ (Zahle, Zahle, our Zahle – and 5. COMMUNITY It is third largest city in magnitude The people of Zahle share strong arak drinking is our custom, and the Berdawni is our water). This and importance to Lebanon. family ties and excellent neighbourly hymn drafted by Rachid el Safadi Zahle is after Beirut and Tripoli in Nevertheless, it has a village feel. connexions. It is common to believe dates back to 1857. At that time, terms of size but also with respect Dwellers lie somewhere between that most residents spend their the people of Zahle had proclaimed to economic, cultural, and political rural and urban world. They Sundays visiting each other, going to their city an autonomous republic. influence, the third most influent are strongly attached to values; church or to funerals. The manufacturing of arak spread city in Lebanon. yet, despite this strongly rooted Moreover, at feasts, Zahle residents throughout the country, yet the The population of about 150,000 personality, they have developed would participate actively in support Bekaa remains the region of vine residents is spread into 34 villages. their city in the most modern way. to their city. They like to come growing.

16 17 deer would roam freely before the 18th century.

In 1810, Zahle was part of the territory of the Druzes under the authority of Emir Bachir based in Deir el-Qamar. The inhabitants gained their subsistence partly by the cultivation of their vineyards and a few mulberry plantations and partly by their shops through the commerce of sheep and their manufacture. Many dyeing houses used indigo only to dye cloths. Cotton was bought from Nablous. They would likewise fabricate abbayas or woollen mantles. The various manufactured articles were sold to the peasantry who flock in from the mountains.

Zahle was burnt three times, in 1777, 1791, and in 1860 during a memorable conflict that opposed Christians Druzes. Zahle was a large 6. STORY up into considerable importance. flourishing town upon the verge of town chiefly inhabited by Christians Zahle lies in the Bekaa plateau, in- the plain of the Bekaa is renowned who paid tribute to the Emir of the OF THE CITY between Mount and Anti Lebanon. for the utmost kindness and Druzes. The last total destruction It is known as the “Bride of the hospitality of its native hosts. of the city left it miserable and at a glance… Bekaa” and famed for its festivals in despair; nevertheless in the and feasts. Zahle was founded in the early 18th aftermath of this demolition, during Zahle is the capital and largest city of The City of Wine and Poetry or century but lies in the middle of an the Mutasarafiyah era, Zahle was the Bekaa Governorate. ‘City of khamra and Poetry Khamra ancient environment that goes back rebuilt and thriving again. Lebanon was given the epithet including Arak and Wine’ is to five millennia. In 1622, the great The construction of the railroad line “Switzerland of the East” by celebrated throughout the region Fakhreddine el-Maan set the region between Beirut and in travellers that have applied to it for its pleasant climate, abundant of el-Karak on fire at the time when 1885 put Zahle on the map while ever since the 19th century. Zahle riverside restaurants and local Zahle surroundings used to be a conveying prosperity to the city as is located 55 km east of the capital arak. It is romantically situated on large wild forest. Zahle was referred it became a freight hub on the trade Beirut, on the crossroads of the the edge of a deep ravine with the to as the Valley of the Tigers due to route between Lebanon, and Beirut-Damascus junction. most exhilarating scenery of the far a huge number of tigers wandering Iraq. It resumed its role as a regional Over the last decades, it has sprung stretching verdure of the Bekaa. This in its whereabouts. Leopards, bears, agricultural centre.

18 19 A hospitable city accommodate tourists flocking from Kroum. Beit el Kroum ran by Irene A flag, an anthem, a feel of all over the region. In 1878, Hotel Alouf is a family hotel serving genuine autonomy… In the 18th century, the caravanserai el-Soha was the first establishment to organic Zahle food. With its signature was a roadside inn where travelers welcome tourists. Unfortunately, it mouneh (preserved food), the owner Zahle was the first independent state rest and recover from the day’s didn’t survive the devastating 1975- offers homemade produce for in- in the region in the 19th century, journey. Caravanserais supported 1989 war and is closed since 1981. house meals. Among specialties, Beit when it declared its autonomy to the the flow of commerce of traders of Hotel America, Hotel Akl and Hotel el Kroum prepares kishk (fermented Ottoman regime and had its own trade routes along the Silk Road. Kadri played a significant role in the yogurt) with a special torpedo-shaped flag and anthem. Zahle was a main intersection lodging activity of the city. Akl and kebbe dipped in Kishk soup, stuffed In 1820, during the battle of Maze, whereby merchants would stop over, Kadri are still operating now. vine leaves, goat labne in olive oil the people of Zahle created a red and have a meal, feed their horses and Guesthouse such as Garda Hotel, Al and leyali Zahle. The latter is a milk green flag symbolizing the city. Red, spend the night over in order to take Fadi Center and Saint Joseph’s home pudding with different layers. The for blood, green for life, survival and the road the next day. One of the cater for backpackers. first layer is composed of a milk fertility atop a cross for victory. most popular caravanserai has been Hotel Traboulsi (1913), Hotel pudding, banana bites, achta (milk recently renovated by the Wardy Arabi (1978) and Monte Alberto cream) topped with honey. Beit el Late 19th century, Zahle had totally family. It is composed of a stable (1990) added to the prestigious Kroum boutique hotel offers charming recovered from several battles and for horses and several rooms where offers already operating in the city. bedrooms with a great view of the conflicts and enjoys since the turn merchants would sleep in. Monte Alberto is a landmark hotel Bekaa valley and the Sannine peek. of the century a prosperous industry Traditionally, Zahle has always been overlooking the city. Each bedroom has it’s own theme, and economy. a city where travellers would meet reflected in it’s unique furniture, Zahle is home to lofty edifices and Nowadays, a new era in hospitality and interact while sharing food over colors, textures, lighting and aromas contiguous structures, gardens and travel stories. has been achieved with the opening to suit one’s mood. plantations, fruits and flowers, with a At the turn of the 19th century, of a modern spirited auberge such as limpid river passing through it. Zahle started establishing hotels to the most recent guesthouse: Beit el Run by motivated and active Nada Hraoui, Tanbakji is a restaurant Zahle offers the most bewildering that perpetuates old village recipes. mass of color, patches and strips The setting is made of old furniture of green and brown, dashes of red, designed as a tribute to old Lebanese blotches of burnt-umber and sienna. houses of the Bekaa plateau. The owner’s aim is to safeguard old family In 1914, Jamal Pacha the Turk recipes sharing them with travellers invaded the city and turned Hotel and locals. The chef in charge hails Kadry into a hospital for its army. from the Bekaa and has an accurate He then seized grain warehouses idea about food growing and high and sheep to force the inhabitants quality produce. Most of the food is to resilience. Zahle and the Mount bought from neighbouring farmers Lebanon Mutassarifiyya were part of and producers. the . In the region, several high-end hotels such as Park Hotel or In 1916, Sykes Picot convention Massabki in Chtoura offer excellent appoints France as the mandate facilities together with local food. authority of the region. In the

20 21 Zahle, a word, three explanations…

Zahle might have been named after “zahila” referring to its great land movements. Another option would be a tribute to Zahlan, the prince of the Hilal family based in Zahle in the 7th century during Arab invasion. A more mystical explanation would be in reference to Zuhal or Saturn as Romans worshiped the God of Fertility incarnated by the planet Saturn.

William H. Rau (1903) Zahleh of Lebanon, a prosperous Christian village of Syria. “Zahleh is the largest village of Lebanon, containing 15,000 inhabitants. It owes its prosperity mainly to the labours of missionaries from England and the United States who have made it a center of education and Christian influence. It has numerous churches, mission schools of a high grade and manufactories of various kinds. The town has an air of comfort, cleanliness, intelligence and thrift very rare in Palestine. Here one aftermath of WWI after the defeat commercial activities. Natives province of the Bekaa. In 1943, sees women without the distinctive of Turkey allied to the Germans, in zahliots such as Chebel Dammous Lebanon was independent and dress of the Mohammedan women, September 1920, General Gouraud and Moussa Nammour contributed Zahle, a flourishing city. From 1975 women of more beauty, intelligence declared Bekaa, , Hasbaya to the draft of the Lebanese till 1989, Zahle suffered from the and character, with hope in their and officially lands of the Constitution in 1926. consequences of the War. At the faces and joy in their lives. The place Greater Lebanon. end of the war, Elias el-Hrawi, a is more western than oriental. Miles During the French mandate, the In 1930, Zahle became a caza zahliot was elected President of the of vineyards are seen and there are city prospered and developed its consequently the capital of the Republic. many thriving manufactories”

22 23 24 25 7. RESOURCES contribute to the development of to the effects of the post-war (1975- agricultural sector, if other socio- a more environmental friendly 1990) economical crisis, and to the economic and geo-political Lebanon is a country with a agricultural sector. economical policies favouring the constraints are overcome. unique geographical position. In 2002, agriculture in Lebanon tertiary sector (services) over the At the household level, agriculture However, agriculture based represented 6% of the GDP, and 7% primary and secondary sectors. is mainly a part time activity, mainly in the Bekaa is still an of the active population, while in The natural advantages of complementing other production, artisan industry. Farmers in rural 1970 its contribution to the GDP the country in terms of water or service activities. Commercial areas need capacity-building to was around 9% with 19% of the resources, number of sunny agriculture is not very frequent, improve their farming methods active population. Agricultural days, geomorphology and and when it occurs it must be thus increasing their productivity production has decreased by 12% climate diversity would allow complemented by other economical and competiveness. This would between 1970 and 2008 mainly due the development of an efficient inputs. (T)

26 27 Fragmentation and small sizes The Bekaa plain offers large areas of farms are characteristic of the of arable lands planted mainly mountains and the South while with cereals and sugar beet. Grape they are a little larger in the Bekaa. growing is very important in Only 5% of holdings are larger than the central Bekaa, thanks to the 4 ha, with 49% of the total Utilized contribution of large investments Agricultural Area (UAA), while 30% and the application of modern of the UAA are larger than 10 ha production, transformation and and concentrated in the Bekaa. The marketing techniques allowing legal status and land tenures of the the development of an important holdings are distributed as follows: wine industry. Olive production

2007 2008 2009 52 800 49 900 50 000 15 750 14 500 16 000 1 800 900 2 000 8 527 913 7 439 430 700 is very important in Koura, in

92% of agricultural holders are South Lebanon and in Hasbaya. single holdings operating their lands While apricots are one of the main individually specialties of northern Bekaa; fruit 7% of agricultural holders trees (apples, cherries, peaches) are are operating their lands in a concentrated on the western slopes partnership with others of the Mount-Lebanon chain. 83% of holders own their lands (corresponding to 68% of total Animal production is mainly UAA) concentrated in the Bekaa Plateau 8% of holders are still in a transitory and concerns ovine and caprine (heritage) process (corresponding to livelihood. Sheep production is 7% of total UAA) almost exclusive to the Bekaa,

0 1 156 100 500 6% lands are operated through historical birthplace of the local rental (corresponding to 18% of total “Awassi” breed. Goats are found UAA) almost everywhere, feeding in 0

2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 43 600 500 45 808 46 620 49 52 900 7 000 11 500 13 911 12 590 14 15 900 2 000 921 1 989 810 900 030 879 846 930 550 900 1 050 000 8 738 11 165 9 814 503 839 096 26 632 28 705 27 298 301 553 401 25 737 222 213 70 981 69 868 71 900 571 733 605 800 780 73 886 15 292 155 16 426 890 500 17 113 763 810 091 11 942 16 940 19 201 564 738 934 20 132 136 535 4 500 400 350 574 601 300 496 3 01 750 700 600 591 642 691 687 646 645 270 8 929 13 296 15 713 999 16 333 17 954 648 338 56 834 57 570 564 58 531 524 59 100 600 000

2000 40 000 8 700 2 600 900 9 447 28 487 70 661 15 205 12 945 900 7 027 10 850 55 646

4 400

k pea etables eat ches ize ves rus Fruits arse Grain arse ot Crops ot lses rley uit orghum ugar Beetugar Pu Fr Cit Ro Vet S S Oli Table 4. Area (ha) under different crops (Source: FAOSTAT) (Source: crops (ha) under different 4. Area Table Crops Wh Ba Chic Ma Veg Co

28 29 the woodlands and high altitude livelihoods and the severe for goat meat) after the global Goat production suffers from formations. Ovine production is fragmentation that woodlands, crisis related to the mad cow imports even though the demand not well developed, although some rangelands and pasture lands are disease and the new trends in food for goat meat and milk products investors are trying to put a milk witnessing because of the urban habits favouring local and organic remains large and some 10,000 value-chain into operation. sprawl, has seen herds (goats products. families have this production as their and sheep) decrease in number major source of income. The production of ruminants is and pastoralism is no longer an Some large investments have been secondary in Lebanese agriculture, important part of the rural mosaic. put into the dairy products value All the sheep and/or goat farmers with less than one agricultural In some parts of the country, chain level. Some are private with in the regions surveyed are holding in 8 being involved in mismanagement practices and several new dairy plants delivering transhumant, sharing their time animal husbandry. Cattle are mainly overgrazing have lead to the fresh and UHT milk to the Lebanese between high mountain zones in raised for milk production with deterioration of pastures and market. Other investments are public, spring and summer (from April-May the majority of the stock in large woodlands. mainly through the IFAD project till October-November) looking for farms of the Holstein breed. Sheep on the rehabilitation of the small good quality pastures. The nomadic and goats have always been an In 2003, dairy cattle, sheep and goat livestock producers in the Bekaa. system allows the children to join integral part of the rural mosaic in milk production represented 7.2% After the 2006 war, the dairy sector schools during winter, when the Lebanon. Sheep are mainly of the of the total value of the agricultural has suffered important losses, but the families move the herds to lower regional Awassi breed with local production; while meat production private sector has managed to recover altitudes. During the spring and characteristics, and goats are mainly did not exceed 3.9%. Despite this and rehabilitate the affected plants. summer, at the end of the school of the local Baladi breed, and the production being secondary, it Nowadays, in integrated circuits, years, sons and daughters help their Damascus or Shami breed. remains very important, mainly milk is commercialized through parents in the different tasks related Both sheep and goats are managed when it comes to goats and sheep three main channels: independent to their herds and small farms. Even under nomadic and semi-nomadic largely because of their strong milk-men (the hallabas), milk-men teenagers and young adults stay systems, feeding on native pastures, ability to utilize pasture and fallow appointed by the dairy plants and with their families and frequently woodland species and crop residues. lands within the holdings or at the collection centres, both public, inherit the job from their parents. They are distributed all over landscape level. currently facing financial and The nomadic way of living and the Lebanon with a high concentration technical problems while private freedom of the wilderness run in the in the Bekaa Valley. The economic The local production of sheep and plants are functioning well. blood and cannot be easily changed and heritage importance of these goat meat suits the requirements into a sedentary way of living. The breeds, both at the community and of the traditional Lebanese diet. Cattle meat production remains very provision of the bare necessities and national levels contribute to their However, despite the important limited, with livestock imported a slight improvement in the quality conservation, and reduce the risk contribution to the Lebanese diet from different countries (mainly EU) of livelihoods would certainly of losing them through breeding and cuisine, the demand on sheep and slaughtered in Lebanon. Such preserve this family structure and or replacement programs. The and goat meat has been decreasing production provided around 60% this traditional system. wild goat that used to roam in the during the past few decades, mainly of the bovine meat in 2002. High Lebanese mountains has disappeared because of the development of quality meat is mainly imported and is thought to be extinct. malls and supermarkets and the chilled or frozen. The number of availability of cheaper imported sheep is estimated 330,000 in 2009 Changes in land use practices, meat. The demand has witnessed a and the number of goats reached the shifting from rural to urban slight increase again (particularly 450,000 in 2009.

30 31 32 33 Rosine Zahlaoui has been struggling milk glass (lattimo), and imitation the traditional food farming systems, 8. CULTURE & for decades to compile a list of local gemstones made of glass. Murano with the result that wheat and other TRADITION artisans pursuing an artwork that is Island has been a commercial port as foods had to be imported and were authentic and rooted in the region. far back as the 7th century. Over the sold to the very farmers who had The city’s culture has long revolved Among the many artists that decades, Murano glassblowers and once grown them as staples. around its signature crop, the grape, have their workshop in the city, artisans have moved and setup shop and its products, wine and arak. Murano glass artisans and weavers elsewhere, such as Zahle that boasts With both the Ottoman War and Arak, in particular, has traditionally make their way through collective a local production. World War I taking their tolls, the been served in cafés any time of exhibitions and fairs. Nadim & silk-for-food trade network came the day. Together with the town’s Bianca Tahtouh are Murano glass unravelled. The resulting tragedy gorgeous natural settings, it might specialists. The tradition of Murano of food insecurity is the reason have provided with inspiration glass making is a heritage from Italy. that some fifteen million people of many of the fifty poets and writers Indeed, in Fakhr ad Din II times, Lebanese descent now live beyond who were born Zahle over the past Mount Lebanon had strong tight Lebanon’s borders, and only five century, leading to its reputation with Italy explaining in some ways million Lebanese remain in their as “the City of Wine and Poetry”. the. native land. A graceful personification of this nickname stands at the town’s Fakhr ad Din II enhanced Lebanon’s In November 1914, the Ottoman entrance: a statue of Erato, the Muse military and economic development Empire participated in World War I of love poetry, holding a bunch of with the objective of liberating alongside with Germany, disrupting grapes. the country. He was remarkably the trade of silk to France and tolerant and tried to amalgamate leading the Ottomans to mandate Artisans: handicrafts gems the different religious groups into a that every Lebanese farmer who united Lebanese community. For the could carry a gun join the army. sake of independence, he concluded Hundreds of thousands of Lebanese a secret agreement with Ferdinand men and boys were forced to leave I, Duke of Tuscany in Italy, with the Silk mills… the mulberry groves and remnant two parties pledging to support each grain fields, though roughly a fifth other against the Ottomans. As the number of silk mills in the of them deserted their compulsory Fakhr ad Din II initiated many region increased up through 1885, military service and fled the country. strategies to modernize the country Lebanon began to gain half of its The shortage of silk leaf harvesters by inviting architects, irrigation gross national product from the alone would have thrown the engineers and agricultural experts silk trade and was therefore able to country into an economic crisis, but from Italy to work in Lebanon. purchase two-thirds of the bulgur, blockades also prevented the women flour, dried legumes, and dairy who worked in the silk factories Murano glass artisans refined products its peasants consumed from getting their products to high- technologies such as crystalline from Syria, Turkey, and even North end French markets, and the silk glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass African countries. All this required trade collapsed. With a locust plague with threads of gold (aventurine), the planting of large areas of devastating the remaining cereal multicolored glass (millefiori), mulberry trees, thereby displacing fields in the summer of 1915 and no

34 35 money to purchase staple foods from ivory, glass, jewelry and metal work. Old houses, red rooftops, stone and a cowshed below or adjoined to Syria or Africa, the food security of Tyre was a flourishing commercial mansions, green hills overlooking the house, the animals’ shelter. the Lebanese peasantry evaporated center famed for its purple dye Berdwani river, all architectural before their eyes. They were left extracted from the mollusc murex, a elements of the city are enhanced in Georgette Zaatar’s goal is to pay with only locust-damaged mulberry marine snail still living along Tyre’s her stunning paintings. tribute to the rural house that is built leaves, which silkworms can eat but shores. Tyre produced also rich Georgette works also ‘for the with a mixture of clay and straw. humans cannot. The mulberries silken garments that were exported memory of my city and to pass down The wet mixture is poured into a themselves had little market, and throughout the Mediterranean to generations our cultural and mould to obtain a sun-dried brick. their food value did not sustain Basin. architectural heritage so it doesn’t The earth serves as a mortar sealing. many local families. get lost’. The latter is used as the first filler Painting Zahle for decades to walls. The second filler is made Lebanon has a long tradition of silk The traditional rural Lebanese of marl and straw. A coat of lime weaving. In Zahle, artisans work Georgette Zaatar just like many local house consists of three rooms: a dar with salt and oil fixes the color and specific designs that are passed down painters is found of her city that she (living-room), the khazneh or beyt removes insects. for generations. Artisan Weavers is depicts so beautifully in her artwork. el mouneh (food stocking chamber) the revival of that family tradition, infusing it with new life, new designs and modern manufacturing techniques.

Around 4000 BC, the Canaanites lived in Lebanon. The Greeks named the Phoenicians “red” referring to the purple dye extracted from murex seashells, a hallmark of the Phoenicians. The Phoenicians were skilled people who developed the first phonetic alphabet. They were accomplished sailors who travelled widely, trading local goods such as cedar timber and murex with Egypt and other Mediterranean countries, including those of Europe. The Phoenicians established strong ties with Egypt where tribute in the form of precious cedar wood was paid to the Pharaohs. The Phoenicians dominated the Mediterranean Sea trade for over 500 years excelling in the production of textiles, carved

36 37 Heritage Museum – Feyrouz is in perfect harmony with its Silk Road. There are several temples stones from the ancient world. Chamoun environment, vineyards and a green to visit within the complex: The As the vast temple complex plateau. Temple of Baal/Jupiter situated upon expanded throughout Roman times, In the outskirts, a family run ’20. Noah, a man of the soil, the massive stone blocks known as the Temple of Bacchus (Dionysus museum gathers a collection of proceeded to plant a vineyard. 21. the Trilithon, the Temple of Bacchus for the Greeks), the God of wine traditional objects and elements When he drank some of its wine, he and the circular temple of Venus. and a patron deity of agriculture of Zahle’s lifestyle. This museum became drunk and lay uncovered On a nearby hill, lies a fourth temple and theater, was constructed in located on the ground floor of a inside his tent. 22. Ham, the father dedicated to Mercury. the middle of the 2nd century BC. private house, is open to the public of Canaan, saw his father naked and The golden age of Roman building The 2484 square meter temple is and the grandson of the owner tours told his two brothers outside. 23. But at Baalbek began in 15 B.C. when the world’s best-preserved Roman visitors and students explaining Shem and Japheth took a garment Octavianus Augustus (27 B.C-14 temple. them the purpose of the museum as and laid it across their shoulders; then A.D) settled a legion. The sloping The Arabs changed the name of the well the significance of the objects they walked in backward and covered terrain involved the construction fortified city to al-Qala‘ (the fort) exhibited. Chamoun’s father was a their father’s naked body. Their faces of retaining walls that are built with before a second bloody sack took famous Zahle painter. The family were turned the other way so that monoliths of 400 tons. The western, place in 748. In 1759, the city was has dedicated generations to arts they would not see their father naked.’ tallest retaining wall has a second badly shaken by an earthquake that and opened up this private museum (Genesis 9, Old Testament). course of monoliths with the famous led to the irreversible destruction of in order to display food utensils “trilithon”; a row of three stones each parts of the Roman complex. from Lebanese heritage, Ottoman The most impressive Acropolis in the weighing 1000 tons, the largest cut- arms, old paintings depicting the world: Baalbek Temples story of the region as well as rare manuscripts gathered through the Perched atop a high point in generations. the fertile Bekaa valley with an expansive view over the plateau, Noah’s Tomb the temple complex of Baalbek is arguably the most enigmatic The tomb of Noah is a long structure holy place of ancient times. The seemingly part of an aqueduct. It sprawling complex is a profusion of extends about sixty feet the stature temples and platforms filled with a of Noah according to Oriental stunning line of fallen and tradition. sculptures, and stone dimensions It consists of a tombstone. At that puzzle archaeologists and the time of the ottomans, Turks engineers even today. The pretended that Noah is really buried Phoenician temple of Baalbek dates there. Nebbi-Noah is the sepulchre back to 2000 B.C. and is dedicated it of the great patriarch. to Sun-God Shamash-Baal-Haddad later known as Helios and Jupiter In the Old Testament, Genesis 9, (Aramean deity of lightning and there is a clear reference to wine. thunder). It was an important city Noah’s tomb established in Zahle at the time at the crossroads of the

38 39 Anjar, a commercial city at from the Litani river have made crossroads of the Silk Road… Anjar and its surroundings, the most fertile place in the country, Anjar is one of the most recent The sources are also what gave the archaeological sites in Lebanon and city its name. “Anjar”, comes from covers one period of the country’s “Ain Gerrha,” “the source of Gerrha”, history: The Umayyad. Anjar was the name of an ancient city founded an important commercial center during Hellenistic times. under, the Umayyads, one of the The site features two palaces, a most important Muslin dynasties, mosque and a standard designed who ruled between 660 and 750 A.D. public bath consisting of a square- Their reign was short lived (pushed hall vestibule supported by two by the Abbasids, they relocated to arcades made of three arches each, Spain) yet they left in Anjar some and three separate rooms for steam impressive ruins, only recently baths. discovered. Anjar is a perfect example of the Aside for its commercial status, the typical Umayyad architecture vicinity of spurting springs, coming consisting of a triple arcade window on the upper façade and masonry with alternating layer of stone and brick-tile. The mosque’s design indicates that the Caliph had his own private access while two distinct entrances are public. A second palace is composed of a square courtyard and five rooms.

In 744 A.D, the city was destroyed by Marwan II after defeating Ibrahim, Al-Walid’s son. Anjar was sacked and fell into oblivion. Later on, the area was covered by vast swamps and it was not until the country’s Independence that the General Direction of Antiquities decided to restore and unveil its forgotten treasures. Lebanon recovered a significant part of its history and a masterpiece of Ummayad architecture.

40 41 Terbol Museum, showcasing Selim the 1st, villagers had the were distributed to the family objects, food and other useful traditional Lebanese architecture ingenious idea to build a double and neighbours. That way people elements. The ‘khrestane’ is a framed partition with a hole at the top to endured this unfair arbitrary tax cupboard dug in the wall with two Terbol museum is located in the hide grain. The Ottoman troops while preventing themselves from wooden doors. Bekaa Plateau, 20 kilometers extorted the harvest causing hunger starvation. The Terbol Museum away from Zahle. The museum is among the rural population. To reconstitutes this cereal hole. It can Niha, the ancient Phoenician an old traditional farmer house survive, farmers also hid cereals be visited during summer (terbol@ Temple transformed into a museum in in the hole that they retrieved, fnp.org.lb). At 10 kms from Zahle, Niha hosts an order to explain the lifestyle of the according to their necessities, by In the Lebanese traditional house, ancient Phoenician Temple for the Lebanese during the 19th and early virtues of a hole dug at the base. the inhabitants dug in the walls God Hadaraniss as well as a smaller 20th century. Soldiers took grains of silos without ‘yuk’ to store furniture. The ‘yuk’ worship for the Goddess of Water. During the Ottoman occupation suspecting that the harvest was in is a niche for mattresses, used as a (1516-1918), starting with Sultan fact hidden within walls. Grains bed. Other niches served for storing

42 43 and climate, which in turn impact 9. ECONOMY agricultural products that are available. Identifiable gastronomic Zahle gastronomy identity is characteristics of Zahle condense the strongly related to the agricultural multiple influences of the region at environment of the city. Located in the crossroads of many countries. the middle of the Bekaa valley, Zahle During the 20th Century, artisan has forged within decades a strong producers with traditional identity and has benefited from techniques grew fast in a demanding the favourable surrounding that market. Until now and due to the facilitates the use of a large amount resurgence in demand for quality of different crops. products made by time-honoured The dominant elements in the methods, Zahle farmers have been identity and success of Zahle’s able to maintain their culinary gastronomy include geography heritage.

44 45 Wheat… The process of burgul lasts several and chickpeas from which they days. had made hummus over countless Lebanon was the Breadbasket of According to a study by Slow Food centuries. the Roman Empire. Today, wheat Foundation for Biodiversity, Burgul production does not even meet might have been introduced to The Bekaa covers an area of 428,000 the country’s local demand. The Lebanon by Kurdish tribes in the hectares, 42% of Lebanon’s total area. salamouni (Triticum aestivum L. 12th century. Its arable land is important for the var. Salamouni) is tender wheat, the The grading of the wheat is made country as mountains make up most perfect flour for bread-making. The with a sieve to obtain coarse burgul of the country. three indigenous wheat are perfect (jachich - khichin), fine (burgul) for burgul making: haramuni, and very fine (sraysira). It is The Berdawni has always been salamouni and breiji. This wheat ground to produce flour (bsisse). of central interest for mills that might have been cultivated for over Semolinas, named smid (coarse) would install by the river in order 5000 years in Lebanon. It is the and firkha (fine) made of wheat are to ground their wheat. Indeed, base of burgul, flour, semolina and key ingredients in the preparation thanks to water mills would produce freeke. The crop is concentrated in of cake shops such the maamoul. huge amounts of flour and burgul. the Bekaa Valley and is harvested The burghul does not appear in the Nowadays, bakeries represent a large in June and July. At the end of the famous writings of the Baghdadi percentage of the local industry. It is summer season, rooftops of Zahle gastronome Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq. strongly related to local mills that are are lined up with white sheets where Al-Warraq wrote in the 10th century The harvest depends on regions but quite influent in the city. Mills for burgul and kishk is prepared in the first known Arab cookbook usually takes place at the beginning grains, flour, burgul are a solid asset the city for centuries. The wheat is ‘The book of dishes’ (El Kitab of May. for the city. boiled in large pots, dried in the sun El Tabikh). It is only in the 11th The particularity of Zahle’s economy and milled. Before milling process, century, that the Turkish or Persian Beginning in the 1860s, when is that it relies essentially on dried seeds are moistened again and term starts appearing in recipes. It Napoleon III had landed six small businesses employing a few rubbed to remove the outer bran was commonly used throughout thousand troops on the Lebanese employees. Artisan producers, food layer. The process allows transfer of the Ottoman Empire. In Lebanon, coast to intervene in sectarian processing family-owned companies vitamins and minerals from outer housewives would make it in-house. disputes on the side of Christians. directly benefit from locally grown bran layer into the seed. The initial They crushed the wheat in the The French encouraged Maronite products. boiling provides biological stability jaroush (two piled stones) operated Christians of highlands and valleys In the region, Zahle is a major trade to milled product allowing safe by a wooden pestle. to abandon their subsistence crops center with strong retail turnover. storage for long periods and shorter in favour of growing mulberry trees The tourism industry counting on cooking time. The freeke is a green picked wheat for silk production. Spurred on food heritage culture and beautiful roasted in straw fire. The term by their own merchant class, the sceneries is a strong income to The burgul, stewed and drained originates from ‘faraka’, or moving small shareholders in the Mount the city. As a main tourism and wheat, then sun-dried, cleaned and referring to the fact that grains are Lebanon highlands and the Bekaa hospitable hub, Zahle supports crushed, is a staple ingredient of removed from sheaves of wheat. Valley had planted nearly half of all contemporary accommodation such Lebanese dishes. The fine wheat The wheat picked before maturity their arable lands in mulberry trees, as artisan guesthouses and auberges is used in the preparation of two is sun-dried, mixed in the straw of forsaking the wheat grains that had that fit modern demand. national dishes: kebbe and tabboule. barley and burnt on the ground. offered them bulgur for tabboule Gastronomy is one of the elements

46 47 incorporated in a new concept - statistics. The most exported of cultural heritage and cultural commodity was potato tourism, driven by growing trends (USD 46 000 000) followed by apple of a well-being lifestyle, authenticity, (USD 41 000 000), orange (USD 27 environmental protection and 000 000), banana (USD 23 000 000) the need to have a high-quality and grapes (USD 11 000 000). experience. Tourists that flock to Citrus and bananas are not grown Zahle have a strong desire for foods in the Bekaa, yet the main exporters that emphasise the heritage and work in the Bekaa region. culture of the city stimulating the Agriculture revenues in total city lume lume preservation of traditional forms of 8% 4% 23% 4% 10% 15% 8% 10% 3% 13% 3% 100% agriculture and cultural heritage. income During Lent, Christians eat meatless dishes and at Barbara, they eat a Bekaa valley is Lebanon’s most Vo variety of wheat-based dishes. important farming region around 40% of households run small family

Gastronomy, as a tourist resource, generates rural development by farms (Global eye, 2006). increasing rural revenue sources and improves income levels and Food industries employment of local labour.

The main concentration of food

industries are located in Zahle 19 9 53 9 23 34 18 24 6 29 6 230 Figures of Agriculture surface and

encompassing wineries, Bakeries, companies ber of revenues from agriculture dairy, poultry and meat and agro- food processing companies. The total agriculture surface in Lebanon is 248 000 Hectares out Schools, training, technical Num of which 42 % are generated in the schools, universities valley - 104 160 Hectares. Farming in the Bekka Valley is a lifestyle There are several schools and for many families and agricultural universities with a special ‘food products generate considerable related’ curriculum. revenues for many. At A.U.L in Chtoura, Mr Itab Awass

is the head professor for the food

Exports from the Bekaa Valley section. In Zahle, the Catholic School of Dar

Agriculture exports from Bekaa

El Sadaka has a food section. valley during 2011 is around USD Université la Sagesse has a ater

192 000 000 according to CCIAZ - Production oil live airy products airy lcohol drinks lcohol OTAL OTAL egetables and Fruits conservation Fruits and egetables

partnership with the University of oasters akeries ggs and poultry and ggs rinting Press rinting ME’s Segment Packaging P B V S D O R E A W T Chamber of Commerce, Industry Lausanne, famed for its hospitality Zahle the (2010) CCIA at registered typeIndustries of Table: and Agriculture of Zahle and Bekaa section.

48 49