HANGING WALL ORGANIZER

SUPPLIES:

• Hanging Wall Organizer Fabric Kit • Basic Supplies or Sewing Kit from Office • Iron • Ironing Board or Mat

DIRECTIONS:

¼” allowance

• 20” x 5” – Vinyl Top Pocket • 20” x 10” – Center Pocket • 2 – 26” x 12” – Bottom Pockets • 2 - 26” x 6” – Bottom Pockets • 2 – 20” x 1 ½” – Top and Center Pocket • 2 – 26” x 1 ½” – Bottom Pocket Binding • 2 – 33” x 20” – Base Panels • 32” x 19” Interfacing – Base • 18” x 3” – Tabs

Pockets:

1. Fold the bottom pockets in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press along the fold line. 2. Sandwich one piece of the pocket interfacing in the fold, aligning the long edge of the interfacing with the crease of the pocket. Using an iron on the wool or steam setting, press the pocket, gliding over the interfacing to fuse to one side. * any excess interfacing sticking out from edge of pocket* 3. Fold the bottom pocket binding strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press to set a crease. Un-fold and press one of the long raw edges 1/4" toward the middle crease. 4. Align the middle crease of the binding with the top raw edges of the pocket and and in place across the width of the pocket. Edgestitch along the binding across the width of the pocket. Repeat steps 1 – 5 for the other fabric pockets. The center pocket will not be lined with interfacing. 5. Repeat steps 3 – 4 to bind the vinyl pocket.

Pleating the fabric pockets:

1. The two-bottom fabric pockets will each be divided into three pleated pockets. 2. On the side of the pocket fused to the interfacing, measure and mark vertical line in the center of the pocket. Measure and mark a vertical line 1” to the left of the center line, then measure and mark a vertical line 3” to the left, then another at 3”, another at 1”, another at 1”, and a final at 3”. Repeat this step across the right side of the pock from the center line.

3” 1” 1” 3” 3” 1” 1” 3” 3” 1” 1” 3”

Center

3. To make the , fold the fabric together between the 3” and 1” marks and bring the folds together to meet at the center mark between each two 1” marks, pin each pleat in place and press. *binder clips or clothes also work instead of pins to keep the together while you * 4. To give each pocket extra strength and structure, zigzag stitch each pleat in place 1" up from the bottom folded edge of the pocket and press pleats flat. a. You will need to change your machine’s stitch type to zigzag for step 4. Remember to change it back once you have completed the pleats. 5. Repeat steps 2 – 4 to create pleats on the second bottom pocket.

Attach pockets to base:

1. Center the base interfacing to the wrong side of a base panel. There should be ½” of fabric extending beyond the interfacing on all four sides. Using an iron on the wool or steam setting, press the pocket, gliding over the interfacing to fuse to base panel. 2. Place the interfaced panel right side up on a flat work surface. 3. Place the bottom pocket right side up on the interfaced panel. The bottom edge of the pocket should be 1 ½” up from the bottom raw edge of the interfaced panel. Pin in place across the bottom and sides. 4. Stitch down both sides and across the bottom of the pocket. Stitch on each of the two remaining vertical 3" lines. 5. Place the second pocket 2 ½” above the top of the first pocket matching raw edges. Stitch it to the base using the same method as in step four. Press both pockets. 6. Place the center pocket 2 ½” above the top of the second fabric pocket matching raw edges and pin in place. Measure and mark a vertical line in the center. Measure and mark a vertical line 5” over from the centerline on both sides. 7. Stitch down both sides and across the bottom of the center pocket. Stitch on each of the vertical lines. 8. Place the vinyl pocket 2 ½” above the top of the third fabric pocket matching edges and carefully pin in place. Repeat steps 6 and 7 to create the pockets.

Tabs:

1. Fold the tab strip in half lengthwise, stitch in place and press the seam open. Turn right side out and into three equal strips, about 6” each. 2. Fold each strip in half, matching the raw edges. 3. Place the tabs along the top of the interfaced panel, aligning the raw edges of the tabs with the top raw edge of the interfaced panel. Place one of the tabs in the center of the panel. The two other tabs should each sit 1 ½” in from the outside side edge and pin in place. Baste the tabs in place.

Almost done!

1. Place the non-interfaced base panel right sides together with the completed front panel, sandwiching all the pockets and the tabs between the layers. 2. Pin around all four sides, leaving an 8” opening along the bottom for turning. 3. Stitch around all four sides, clip the corners and turn. 4. Fold the 8” opening inward and press. 5. around all four sides, pivoting at all the corners.