Table of Contents

Kaledo® Manual

Table of Contents……………………………………………....Page 1

Introduction to Kaledo Weave………………………………...Page 2 – 6

Creating a Palette from a picture …………………....………Page 7 – 13

Creating a Palette from the Pantone Library……………….Page 14 – 18

Appending Palettes……………………………………………Page 19

Exporting Palettes to Photoshop……………………………..Page 20 – 21

Removing White Background from Palettes Page 22 - 24

Creating Stripes & Plaids……..……………………………....Page 25 - 30

Creating Variegated/Space-dyed Yarns……………………..Page 31 - 36

Creating Thumbnails in Photoshop …………………………..Page 37 - 40

Creating Patterns/Filling Models in Photoshop……………..Page 41 - 47

©Constance W. Collins, January 2011 Page 1

The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

LaunchingKaledo® Weave

 This is the when you first launch Kaledo® Weave – Figure 1a.

Fig. 1a

 You may right click in the Layers Manager title bar, Figure 1b, and move it to the uppermost right hand corner out of your way. Figure 1c

Fig. 1b

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

Fig. 1c

 Now, click on Window>Window>Density to display the number of ends per inch (e.p.i.) and the number of picks per inch (p.p.i.) – Figure 1d

Fig. 1d

 This bar now appears at the bottom of the main Kaledo Weave Screen – Figure 1e below.

Fig. 1e

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 Next, click on Window>Toolbars>Copy – Figure 1f

Fig. 1f

 The Copy appears at the far right-hand side of the Kaledo Weave toolbar Fig 1g

Fig 1g

 The last toolbar you will need to change is the Flat Mode, figure 1h, to Yarn Mode, figure 1i.

Fig. 1h

Fig 1i

Note the difference in the appearance of the screen. It now looks like fabric instead of the flat gray default appearance. © April 2009, Constance W. Collins, Author, revised June 2011 Page 4

The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

 Two more things to remember before you begin working with Kaledo Weave; first, Go to File>Fabric Settings to define the fabric settings – Figures 1j& k.

Fig. 1j Fig. 1k  The first box is Fabric Name: Change simpleFabric to your fabric name – Figure 1k. a. Cwc 2 x 2 basket b. Cwc 2 x 4 fancy basket c. Cwc 2 x 2 right-hand twill d. Etc.  Unit of Measure = inches  Warp Density = ends per inch or e.p.i  Weft Density = picks per inch or p.p.i.

a. Change the Density of the Warp and Weft to work with the yarn selected. i. We will discuss this in more detail throughout the quarter ii. For now, leave both the warp and the weft density at 15

b. For this class we will be working with balanced weaves primarily so these numbers should be the same for both the Warp and the Weft.

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

 Next, change the Rendered Size to the size you need your swatch to be when exported as a .jpeg, i.e. 5” x 8” except for Assignment 6.  Comments = any special callouts the mill may need to know – Fig 1k.  Do NOT change the Resolution settings!!! – Fig. 1k.  Click OK when finished.  Whenever you make any changes, remember to go back to Fabric Settings and rename the Fabric.  Your window is now ready to begin.

Understanding Weave Drafts – Fig. 1l

1. The highlighted area represents the repeat unit. 2. Warp yarns (ends) are represented by the columns of the check pattern 3. Weft yarns (picks) are represented by the rows of the check pattern. 4. Black cells = warp yarns that are selected, or lifted, which means that the warp yarns will pass over the weft yarns, thus being visible.

Fig. 1l

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Creating a Palette from a Picture

1. Go to File>Insert an Image Layer – Figure 1a.

Fig. 1a

2. Locate the Tiff version of your picture and click Open. 3. Your screen will now look like Figure 1b below.

Fig 1b

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

4. The Image Layer now appears in the Layer Manager – Figure 1c.

Fig. 1c

5. Click on Open Default Season Palette in the Colored yarns palette window – figure 1d.

Fig. 1d

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

6. Click on the first palette to create a new color palette – Figure 1e.

Fig. 1e

7. A new Season Palette window will open – Figure 1f.

Fig. 1f

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

8. Click on Color Chooser – Figure 1g.

Fig. 1g

9. Click on Measure Screen – Figure 1h.

Fig. 1h

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

10. The screen in Figure 1i will open.

Fig. 1i

11. Click on the eyedropper icon – Figure 1j.

Fig. 1j

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

12. Now click on a color in your picture that matches one of your embroidery stripes. The color in the Current Color Window will now match the color you selected – Figure 1k.

Fig. 1k

13. If you are satisfied with your color selection, click on the color and drag it into the Season Palette window – Figure 1l.

Fig. 1l

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

14. Highlight the color chip and type your new name in the box below – Figure 1m.

Fig. 1m

15. Continue until all 5 to 7 color chips have been created and named. 16. Click on the Save Palette icon – Figure 1n and save as cwc A3 palette.lpx.

Fig. 1n.

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

Creating a New Palette Using the Pantone Library

1. When you select the Pantone library – Figure 1o, the Pantone window will open, figure 1p.

Fig 1o

Fig. 1p

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

2. You may select colors by just clicking on them, figure 1q, or you may enter pantone numbers to search for specific colors, figure 1r.

Fig. 1q

3. Change Show by Name to Show by Reference and type in the Pantone Number under Reference, figure 1r. The new color will populate under Nearest color(s).

Fig. 1r

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

4. Once the color populates under Nearest color(s), Click on it to find it in the Pantone arrays - Figure 1s.

Fig. 1s

Click on the color in the array>Hold down your left mouse>drag the color to your new Season Palette Window, figure 1t. Remember to rename all of your color choices, figure 1u.

Fig. 1t Fig. 1u

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

a. Once your new palette has been created, Click on Save Palette Icon, figure 1v. It is the 5th from the left.

Fig. 1v

5. Find the location where you wish to save your color palette. 6. If necessary, change the format from .qtx to .lpx, figure 1w.

Fig. 1w Constance W. Collins©, April 2009, revised October 2010 Page 17

The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

7. To move your new palette into the Colored Yarns Palette window, click on the Green Plus sign to add a yarn for each color chip – Figure 1x.

Fig. 1x 8. Next, drag each color into the square box below the yarn name, in this example, 3_2s.

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

Appending Palettes in Kaledo Weave

1. To add a palette to another palette, in the Season Palette Window, Click the Append palette selection, Figure y below. 2. Locate the palette you wish to add and click open. It will be added to this same Season Palette.

Fig, y Fig. Z

To Rename a Palette in Kaledo Weave

3. In the Season Palette Window, Click Rename Palette – Fig 1z; a will appear. 4. Highlight the existing name and Type in your new one. 5. Click OK.

To Save a Palette in Kaledo Weave

1. In the Season Palette Window, Click Save Palette; a Save dialog box will appear. 2. Navigate to the desired folder where you wish to save your palette. 3. By default, Kaledo will save your palette in the .lpx file format 4. Type your palette name. 5. Click Save.

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

Exporting a Palette from Kaledo Weave to Photoshop

1. In the Layer Manager, deselect everything except the Color Palette Data, highlighted area in Fig 1aa.

Fig. 1aa

2. Next, fo to File Export>Name your palette>export as a .JPEG, fig. 1bb.

Fig. 1bb

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD406 Digital Textiles Instructor: Constance Collins

Fig.1cc

3. Be sure to check the Background Option; if you forget this step your image will print all black, figure 1cc.

4. Also make sure you change the resolution from 96 dpi to 300, figure 1cc.

Constance W. Collins©, April 2009, revised October 2010 Page 21

FD406 Removing Backgrounds from Palettes

1. Too see all of the colors in your palette, you must first make a stripe using all of them. 2. In Kaledo Weave, export palette only as a .JPEG 3. Open .JPEG Palette in Photoshop 4. Using the Marquee Tool, select the color chips and your names only Fig. a

Fig. a 5. Control C to copy 6. Control N to open a new Photoshop page – Fig b a. Change the settings to: i. Resolution = 300 dpi ii. Background = Transparent

Fig. b

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FD406 Removing Backgrounds from Palettes

7. Click OK 8. Control V will paste your palette onto the new page you just created 9. Using the Magic Wand tool, click in the white background area of your palette Fig c a. The Magic Wand is the fourth icon down in the toolbar on the left hand side b. Dancing ants will now encircle each color chip

Fig.c

10. Go to Select along the top of the window a. Click on Inverse Fig d

Fig. d

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FD406 Removing Backgrounds from Palettes

11. Control C to copy 12. Control N for a new window 13. Control V to paste

You now have your color chips without the white background.

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Creating Stripes & Plaids in Kaledo Weave

1. Open Kaledo Weave; load a color palette into the Colored yarns palette window, figure 1a below.

Fig. 1a

2. Using the paint brush icon, figure 1b, begin to draw a stripe. 3. Select your next color and repeat. 4. Another way to create a stripe is to enter a number sequence in the Warp Sequence box at the bottom of your screen, figure 1b.

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Fig. 1b

5. Important – you must delete the original 100A stripe in order to create a true representation of your stripe design! figure 1c 6. Using the white arrow selection tool, figure 1c, click on the stripe you with to delete with your left mouse . 7. Once the stripe is highlighted, click the delete key on your keyboard.

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Fig. 1c

8. Your fabric will now show your design in a repeat, figure 1d.

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Fig. 1d

9. Once a single repeat of your stripe is complete, follow steps 10 through 12 to generate a plaid. 10. Click on the white arrow selection tool used in figure 1c. Holding down the left mouse button, select your warp sequence, figure 1e.

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Fig. 1e

11. Click on the green arrow shown below and select Replace Mode, figure 1f. The green arrow will change in appearance – see figure 1g.

Fig. 1f Fig. 1g ©Constance W. Collins, Revised June 2011 Page 29

The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD401 Woven Structures Instructor: Constance Collins Instructor: C. Collins

12. Next, select the Copy Warp to Weft icon, figure 1h.

Fig. 1h

13. Viola! You have created a plaid by simply copying your warp stripe into your weft, figure 1i.

Fig. 1i

14. Notice the dramatic color change in the fabric when the weft colors are replaced with the warp stripe.

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The Illinois Institute of Art - Chicago FD401 Woven Structures Instructor: Constance Collins

Creating a Variegated or Space-dyed Yarn in Kaledo

1. In the Yarn Palette, click Add and open the Yarn Library, figure a.

Fig. a 2. There will be space-dyed yarns under both Cotton and Wool. Choose an appropriate yarn for the season you are designing for, figure b.

Fig. b

3. Select one of the space-dyed yarns to colorize, figure c. 4. Once the yarn has been added to your Yarn Palette Window, click the Close button.

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Fig. c

5. The yarn now appears in the Yarn Palette Window, figure d.

Fig. d

6. Add a yarn to the Colored Yarns Palette Window with the Green Plus Icon, figure e.

Fig. e

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Fig. f

7. Change the gray boxes by dragging colors above into each square, figure g

Fig. g

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8. To create custom yarns, once a yarn has been highlighted, figure c, select Colorize at the bottom of the Yarn Chooser Window, figure h.

Fig.h

9. This will open the box in figure I.

Fig.i

1. Once you have a yarn that you like, click on Save As and rename the yarn with your initials before the Kaledo name. Save it in your folder on the S: drive, your jump drive, and the Ai Yarn folder. I also like to add which palette I used to create this particular yarn. For example, cwc3_0,3_New_WO_S_Dye_0 Klimpt palette 2. Save the yarn in the Ai Yarn Folder only; NOT in the Kaledo Space-dye and Knob Folders!!! 3. Next, add your newly create yarn to the Yarn Palette Window, figure c. 4. Select your weft (fill), figure j.

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Fig. j

5. With the yarn selected, click on the Spool icon. Viola! You now have an interesting space- dyed fabric, figure k.

Fig. k

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Fig. l

6. By changing the sequence in the Colorization window, figure i, the result is a completely different fabric, figure l. 7. Adding the yarn to the warp and the weft, the fabric is once again totally different, figure m.

Fig. m

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Creating Thumbnails in Photoshop

• For each weave: 1. Control A to Select All, or Select All, figure a.

Fig. a

2. Go to Edit>Define Pattern, figure b.

Fig. b ©Constance W. Collins, revised June 2011 Page 37

Creating Thumbnails in Photoshop

3. Name the pattern according to the weave structure – i.e. fancy basket, warp rib, etc., figure c

Fig. c

4. With the marquee tool selected, go to Style in the toolbar along the top. Change from Normal to Fixed Size, figure d.

Fig. d

5. Change width and height to 2.25” or larger, figure e.

Fig. e

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Creating Thumbnails in Photoshop

6. Click on your boardand move the thumbnail into position, figure f.

Fig. f

7. At the bottom of the layers palette, click on the Half Black/Half White Circle and select Pattern (it is the third item in the top box), figures g and h.

Fig. g Fig. h

©Constance W. Collins, revised June 2011 Page 39

Creating Thumbnails in Photoshop

8. In the Pattern Fill Box that appears, you will change the Scale from 100% to 200% or larger, figure i.

Fig. i

9. While the Pattern Fill Box is still open, you can pan around in the thumbnail to select where to position your pattern in the thumbnail

10. Once you close the Pattern Fill Box, you will no longer be able to pan around in the thumbnail, however, you can always reopen the Pattern Fill Box to pan some more

11. Repeat above steps for each fabric swatch

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Creating Patterns and Filling your Models in Photoshop

1. Begin by opening each of your jpeg fabrics in Photoshop and defining them as a pattern. a. Refer to the Creating Thumbnails handout. 2. In Photoshop, open the PDF of the model that you have created in Illustrator. 3. Click on the Fill Layer with your right mouse button, Figure 1a below.

fig. 1a

4. In the that opens, click on Convert to Smart Object. 5. Click the right mouse button again and click on Rasterize Layer. 6. Using the Marquee Tool, Figure 1b, marquee around the object you wish to fill, Figure 1c.

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Fig. 1b Fig. 1c

7. Fill the selected object with the desired pattern and Scale to desired size, Figure 1d.

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8. Click on the Pattern Fill Layer with your right mouse button, Figure 1e.

Fig. 1e

9. In the menu that opens, click on Convert to Smart Object. 10. Click the right mouse button again and click on Rasterize Layer. 11. Click on Edit > Transform > Warp

a. Your model should look like Figure 1f.

Fig. 1f

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12. Lighten the Opacity so that you can see the model underneath, Figure 1g.

Fig. 1g

13. Begin warping the fabric by clicking on a dot with the left mouse button and holding the left mouse down while moving the fabric around, Figure 1h.

Fig. 1h

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14. When the fabric is warped to your satisfaction, click on the checkmark in the upper right hand corner of your toolbar, Figure 1i

Fig. 1i

15. The lines will disappear on your model, Figure 1j.

Fig. 1j Fig. 1k Fig. 1l

16. Take the Opacity back to 100%. Your model will look like Figure 1k. 17. Click on the eyeball next to the Pattern Fill Layer, Figure 1l, so that you no longer see the pattern fill, Figure 1m.

Fig. 1m

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18. Now, click on the Model Layer, Figure 1n.

Fig. 1n Fig. 1o 19. Using the Magic Wand Tool, Figure 1o, select the area you wish to fill. 20. Next, click on Select > Inverse, Figure 1p.

Fig. 1p 21. Go back to the Pattern layer, click on the box so that the eyeball reappears, then click Delete.

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22. Voila! Your garment piece is now filled with your warped fabric.

23. Repeat this process until all garment pieces are re-fabricated with your fabrics. 24. Have fun!!!

©Constance W. Collins, November 2010 Page 47