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Discovering the City of Light and making it your own has always been the most compelling reason to visit Paris. If you’re a first-timer, everything, of course, will be new to you. If you’ve been away for a while, expect changes: Taxi drivers may no longer correct your fractured French but address you in English— tantamount to a revolution. More Parisians have a rudimentary knowledge of the language, and , at least at first glance, seems less xenophobic than in past years. Paris, aware of its role within a united Europe, is an international city. Parisians are attracted to foreign music, videos, and films, especially those from America, even though most French people violently disagree with the political dictates emerging from George Bush’s Washington. Security remains tighter than ever in the wake of the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks. Paris has fully activated its antiterrorist campaign first launched in the mid-1990s when France was the target of a spate of Algerian terrorist attacks. Expect to see far more police in bulletproof vests at all transport hubs and government buildings, as well as at high-profile sites such as the . Metal detectors at Paris’s airports are turned up so high that the zipper on a pair of trousers can trigger an alarm. Often, you have to do a virtual striptease before security will give you the green light. As Paris and the country itself move deeper into the millennium, there is a fear among the French of a loss of identity. France continues to attract record numbers of immigrants from its former colonies. Many native-born French have expressed concern that the country will lose the battle to keep its language dis- tinct and unadulterated by foreign (particularly American) slang or catchwords (le weekend or le software). In fact, the rancor of France’s collective xenophobia has been increasingly redirected toward the many immigrants seeking better lives in Paris, where the infrastructure has nearly been stretched to its limits. Though Paris is in flux culturally and socially, it lures travelers for the same reasons it always has. You’ll still find classic sights like the Tour Eiffel, Notre- Dame, the , Sacré-Coeur, and all those atmospheric cafes, as well as daring new projects like the de La Défense, the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, the Cité de la Musique, and the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand.COPYRIGHTED And don’t forget the parks,MATERIAL gardens, and squares; the Champs-Elysées and other grand boulevards; the river Seine and its quays. Paris’s beauty is still overwhelming, especially at night, when it truly is the City of Light.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Paris Experiences • Whiling Away an Afternoon in a by their favorite cafes to meet Parisian Cafe: The cafe is where lovers and friends, to make new passionate meetings of writers, ones, or sit in solitude with a artists, philosophers, thinkers, and newspaper or book. Whether you revolutionaries once took place— order a small coffee or the most and perhaps still do. Parisians stop expensive cognac in the house, 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 4

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nobody will hurry you from this de l’Arc de Triomphe and Grand quintessentially Parisian activity. Prix (p. 217). These and other top For our recommendations, see races are major social events, so “The Top Cafes,” in chapter 6, you’ll have to dress up (buy your “Where to Dine.” outfit on rue du Faubourg St- • Taking Afternoon Tea à la Honoré). Take the Métro to Porte Française: Drinking tea in London d’Auteuil, then a bus from there to has its charm, but the Parisian the track. The racing newspaper salon de thé is unique. Skip the Paris Turf and weekly entertain- cucumber-and-watercress sand- ment magazines have details about wiches and delve into a luscious race times. dessert like the Mont Blanc, a • Calling on the Dead: You don’t creamy purée of sweetened chest- have to be a ghoul to be thrilled by nuts and meringue. The grandest a visit to Europe’s most famous Parisian tea salon is Angélina, cemetery, Père-Lachaise (p. 213). but you might want to stop by You can pay your respects to the Berthillon for one of their scrump- earthly remains of Gertrude Stein tious ice creams. See chapter 6, and Alice B. Toklas, Oscar Wilde, “Where to Dine,” for details. Yves Montand and Simone Sig- • Strolling Along the Seine: Such noret, Edith Piaf, Isadora Duncan, painters as Sisley, Turner, and Abélard and Héloïse, Frédéric Monet have fallen under the Chopin, Marcel Proust, Eugène Seine’s spell. On its banks, lovers Delacroix, Jim Morrison, and oth- still walk hand in hand, anglers ers. The tomb designs are intrigu- cast their lines, and bouquinistes ing and often eerie. Laid out in (secondhand-book dealers) peddle 1803 on a hill in Ménilmontant, their mix of postcards, 100-year- the cemetery offers surprises with old pornography, and tattered its bizarre monuments, unexpected histories of Indochina. Clochards views, and ornate sculpture. (beggars) seek a home for the night • Discovering Hidden Mont- under its bridges, and the Bateaux- martre: This is Paris’s most Mouches (river cruise boats) ply touristy area. However, far its waters. For a spectacular view removed from the area’s top draw, of the , cross the city’s first Sacré-Coeur, is the neighborhood iron bridge, the , one of the true Montmartrois. Wander of only four pedestrian bridges. the back streets away from the Paris’s oldest and most famous souvenir shops. Arm yourself with bridge is the (New a good map and seek out such Bridge), from which you have an streets as rue Lepic (refresh your- excellent view of the Palais de self at the Lux Bar at no. 12), rue Justice and Sainte-Chapelle on Ile Constance, rue Tholozé (with its de la Cité. For more details on view over the Paris rooftops), rue the sights and moments of Paris, des Abbesses, and rue Germain- see chapter 7, “Exploring Paris.” Pilon. None of these is famous, • Spending a Day at the Races: but each boasts buildings whose Paris boasts eight tracks for horse detailing shows the pride and care racing. The most famous and permeating Paris’s architecture. the classiest is Hippodrome de Discover dozens of other streets on Longchamp, in the Bois de your own. At dusk, sit on Sacré- Boulogne, the site of the Prix Coeur’s top steps and watch as 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 5

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Paris turns into the City of Light. the Marché aux Fleurs, place For a walking tour of , Louis-Lépine (p. 259). You can see chapter 8, “Strolling Around buy rare flowers, the gems of the Paris.” French Riviera—bouquets that • Checking Out the Marchés: A have inspired artists throughout daily Parisian ritual is ambling the centuries. Even the most basic through one of the open-air mar- hotel room will feel like a luxury kets to buy fresh food—perhaps a suite once you fill it with bunches properly creamy Camembert or a of carnations, lavender, roses, and pumpkin-gold cantaloupe—to be tulips. On Sundays, the area is eaten before sundown. You can transformed into the Marché aux take part in this time-honored tra- Oiseaux, where you can admire dition by purchasing the makings rare birds from around the world. for a picnic in a park or even in • Going Gourmet at Fauchon: An your room. Like artists, the ven- exotic world of food, Fauchon dors arrange their wares into a (p. 254) offers more than 20,000 mosaic of vibrant colors: Sanguine, products from around the globe. an Italian citrus with juice the Everything you never knew you color of a brilliant orange sunset; were missing is in aisle after aisle ruby-red peppers; and golden- of coffees, spices, pastries, fruits, yellow bananas from Martinique vegetables, rare Armagnacs, and all dazzle the eye. Our favorite much more. Take your pick: Ton- market is on rue Montorgeuil, ganese mangoes, Scottish smoked beginning at , 1e salmon, preserved cocks’ combs, (Métro: Les Halles). During morn- Romanian rose-petal jelly, blue- ings at this grubby little cluster of red Indian pomegranates, golden food stalls, we’ve spotted some of Tunisian dates, larks stuffed with France’s finest chefs stocking up foie gras, dark morels from France’s for the day. For more details, see rich soil, Finnish reindeer’s tongue, “Food Markets” in chapter 9. century-old eggs from China, and • Window-Shopping in the a Creole punch from Martinique Faubourg St-Honoré: In the reputed to be the best anywhere. 1700s, the wealthiest Parisians • Attending a Free Concert: Sum- resided in the Faubourg St-Honoré; mer brings a Paris joy: free con- today the quarter is home to stores certs in parks and churches all over catering to the rich, particularly the city. Pick up an entertainment on rue du Faubourg St-Honoré weekly for details. Some of the and avenue Montaigne. Even if best concerts are held at the you don’t buy anything, it’s great American in Paris, 65 to window-shop big names like quai d’Orsay, 7e (& 01-40-62- Hermès, Dior, Laroche, Courrèges, 05-00; Métro: Invalides or Alma- Cardin, and Saint Laurent. If you Marceau), which sponsors free want to browse in the stores, be concerts from September to June sure to dress the part. See chapter on Sunday at 5pm. You can also 9, “Shopping,” for the lowdown attend free concerts at Eglise on these boutiques. St-Merri, 78 rue St-Martin, 4e • Exploring Ile de la Cité’s Flower (& 01-42-74-59-39; Métro: Market: A fine finish to any day Hôtel-de-Ville). These perform- (Mon–Sat) spent meandering ances are staged based on the along the Seine is a stroll through availability of the performers, 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 6

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from September to July on Satur- (who performed her famous day at 9pm and again on Sunday banana dance here) vanished long at 4pm. For more concerts, refer ago. True, the Tour Eiffel cancan is to chapter 10, “Paris After Dark.” a bit corny and the show has • Attending a Ballet or an Opera: become less daring, but those In 1989, the Opéra Bastille ladies in their sequins, feathers, (p. 267) was inaugurated to com- and pom-poms still evoke a Paris pete with the grande dame of the of days gone by, immortalized on music scene, the Opéra Garnier a Manet canvas. The show, tacky (p. 268), which then was solely for or not, seems to go on forever. dance and soon closed for renova- • Sipping Cocktails at Willi’s: Back tions. The Garnier reopened a few in the early 1970s, the first-timer years ago, and opera has joined to Paris might have arrived with a dance in the rococo splendor cre- copy of Hemingway’s A Moveable ated by Charles Garnier, beneath a Feast and, taking the author’s controversial ceiling by Chagall. endorsement to heart, headed for The modern Bastille, France’s Harry’s Bar at “Sank roo doe largest opera house, with curtains Noo.” Harry’s is still around but by designer Issey Miyake, features now draws an older, more conser- opera and symphony performances vative clientele. Today’s chic in four concert halls (its main hall younger expats head for Willi’s seats 2,700). Whether for a per- Wine Bar (p. 280), where the formance of Bizet or Tharp, dress longhaired young bartenders are with pomp and circumstance. mostly English, as are the wait- • Watching the Show at the resses, who are dressed in Laura Folies-Bergère: Often denounced, Ashley garb. The place is like an the campy showcase at the Folies- informal club for Brits, Aus- Bergère (p. 270) has been pleasing tralians, and Yanks, especially in audiences since 1868, even though the afternoon. Some 300 wines classic acts like Maurice Chevalier, await your selection. Mistinguett, and Josephine Baker

2 Best Hotel Bets For full details on the following hotels, • Best for Business Travelers: Cor- see chapter 5, “Where to Stay.” porate types from all over the • Best Boutique Hotel: In the world converge at the Hôtel 6th arrondissement on the Left Balzac, 6 rue Balzac, 8e (& 800/ Bank, Hotel d’Aubusson, 33 rue 457-4000 in the U.S. and Dauphine (& 01-43-29-43-43), Canada), a Belle Epoque town is a restored mansion in the heart house with a good business center, of St-Germain-de-Prés, a district 2 blocks from many of the offices more famously associated with along the Champs-Elysées. Its Literary Bohemia in the post-war restaurant serves some of the best era. Graced with original Aubus- food in town and is suitable for son tapestries, as befits its name, entertaining clients. See p. 90. the hotel was once a grand private • Best for Families: An affordable residence of a French nobleman in Left Bank choice is the Hôtel de the 17th century. Inside, the hotel Fleurie, 32–34 rue Grégoire- is a nugget of Parisian styling and de-Tours, 6e (& 01-53-73-70-00), chic, like your own private town in the heart of St-Germain- house in Paris. See p. 99. des-Prés. The accommodations 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 7

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are thoughtfully appointed, and Mary Pickford, William Randolph many connecting rooms with two Hearst and Marion Davies—knew large beds are perfect for families. where to stay back then. Tom Children under 12 stay free with a Cruise and his ilk know the parent. See p. 100. address in Paris is still the Hôtel • Best Value: Not far from the de Crillon, 10 place de la Con- Champs-Elysées, the Résidence corde, 8e (& 800/223-6800 in Lord Byron, 5 rue de Chateau- the U.S. and Canada), once the briand, 8e (& 01-43-59-89-98), palace of the duc de Crillon. If is a classy little getaway that’s far you want its grandest suite and from opulent but is clean and have a discriminating taste for the comfortable and worth every macabre, ask for the Marie euro. See p. 91. Antoinette Apartment—it exhibits • Best Location: Only a 2-minute Antoinette-style elegance, and its walk from Paris’s most historic namesake was beheaded practi- and beautiful square, Hôtel de la cally at the doorstep of this deluxe , 12 rue de citadel. See p. 88. Birague, 4e (& 01-42-72-60-46), • Best for Opulence: Now owned is a little charmer. In a building by Mohammed al-Fayed, the 350 years old, it is small and invit- Hôtel Ritz, 15 place Vendôme, 1e ing, with some decorative touches (& 800/223-6800 in the U.S. that evoke the era of Louis XIII. and Canada), has dripped with See p. 83. wealth, luxury, and decadence • Best View: Of the 33 rooms at the since César Ritz opened it in Hôtel du Quai Voltaire, 19 quai 1898. Barbara Hutton, Coco Voltaire, 7e (& 01-42-61-50-91), Chanel, and Marcel Proust are 28 open onto views of the Seine. just a few names inscribed in its If you stay here, you’ll be follow- glorious guest book; if you’re into ing in the footsteps of Wilde, romantic tragedy, remember this Baudelaire, and Wagner. This was where Princess Diana and 17th-century abbey was trans- Dodi al-Fayed had their last meal. formed into a hotel back in 1856 You can join the Saudi oil princes, and has been welcoming guests Milanese divas, and movie legends who appreciate its tattered charms staying here—if you have big ever since. See p. 108. bucks. See p. 76. • Best for Nostalgia: If you yearn • Best-Kept Secret: Built in 1913 for a Left Bank “literary” address, and long in a seedy state, the fully make it the Odéon Hôtel, 3 rue restored Terrass Hôtel, 12 rue de l’Odéon, (& 01-43-25-90-67), Joseph-de-Maistre, 18e (& 01-46- in the heart of the 6th arrondisse- 06-72-85), is now the only four- ment, filled with the ghosts of star choice in Montmartre, an area Gide, Hemingway, Fitzgerald, not known for luxury accommo- Joyce, and Stein and Toklas. Evok- dations. Its rooms take in far- ing a Norman country inn, this ranging views of the Tour Eiffel, charming hotel lures guests with Arc de Triomphe, and Opéra its high, crooked ceilings, exposed Garnier. See p. 86. beams, and memories of yesterday. • Best Historic Hotel: Inaugurated See p. 101. by Napoleon III in 1855, the • Best for Stargazing: The tycoons, Hôtel du Louvre, place André- hot stars, and hotter mistresses of Malraux, 1e (& 800/888-4747 in yesterday—Douglas Fairbanks and the U.S. and Canada), was once 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 8

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described by a French journalist as heyday of Napoleon III. Fashion “a palace of the people, rising headliners especially like it— adjacent to the palace of kings.” Costes is the choice of many a Today, the hotel offers luxurious model, as the Paris offices of accommodations and panoramic Harper’s Bazaar are close at hand. views down avenue de l’Opéra. If you’re into swags, patterned See p. 73. fabrics, jewel-tone colors, and lav- • Best for Romance: Until the ish accessories, this can be your 1970s, L’Hôtel, 13 rue des Beaux Gilded Age address. See p. 73. Arts, 6e (& 01-44-41-99-00), • Best Service: Though you can’t was a fleabag filled with drunks fault the flawless decor of the and addicts (in 1900, Oscar Wilde Plaza Athénée, 25 av. Montaigne, died here penniless). Millions of 8e (& 866/732-1106 in the U.S. francs of renovations later, the and Canada), billionaires check in rooms that were once cramped because they get the royal treat- and claustrophobic are now ravish- ment from the jaded but indul- ingly romantic, wrought like small gent and ever-so-polite staff. In an jewel boxes. See p. 99. upscale neighborhood between the • Most Trendy Hotel: A converted Seine and the Champs-Elysées, town house, the Hôtel Costes, the Plaza Athénée offers service 239 rue St-Honoré, 1e (& 01-42- that’s impeccable. See p. 88. 44-50-50), evokes the imperial

3 Best Dining Bets For full listings of the following for a reservation at Paris’s most restaurants, see chapter 6, “Where to outstanding all-around restaurant. Dine.” See p. 137. • Best Chef: Proud owner of five • Best Newcomer: In the restored Michelin stars, Alain Ducasse, at town house of the Marquis de the Restaurant Plaza Athénée, 25 Lafayette, 1728, 8 rue d’Anjou, av. Montaigne, 8e (& 01-53-67- 8e (& 01-40-17-04-77), is a real 66-65), has taken Paris by storm, discovery—and a delight. In an dividing his time between his elegant setting, it offers a delec- restaurant here and the one in table fusion cuisine of both Japan- Monte Carlo. He combines pro- ese and French dishes. You can duce from every French region in buy not only the food here but the a cuisine that’s contemporary but modern paintings off the walls. not quite new, embracing the See p. 139. Mediterranean without abandon- • Best Modern French Cuisine: A ing France. See p. 137. temple of gastronomy is found at • Best Haute Cuisine Restaurant: Carré des Feuillants, 14 rue de Named for a 14th-century chef Castiglione, 1e (& 01-42-86-82- who wrote one of the oldest 82), near place Vendôme and the known books on French cookery, Tuileries. Alain Dutournier is one Taillevent, 15 rue Lamennais, 8e of the leading chefs of France, and (& 01-44-95-15-01), occupies a he restored this 17th-century con- 19th-century town house off the vent, turning it into a citadel of Champs-Elysées. Though its owner refined cuisine and mouthwater- likes to keep about 60% of the ing specialties. See p. 117. crowd French, you should still try 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 9

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• Best Provençal Cuisine: With dishes of this province, including Michelin’s coveted two stars, Les ravioli stuffed with Cantal cheese, Elysées du Vernet, 25 rue Vernet, and filet of beef with lentils. See 8e (& 01-44-31-98-98), hosts p. 138. tout Paris (all of Paris) and the • Best for Stargazing: No, it’s not media. Montpellier-born chef Taillevent or even Alain Ducasse. Alain Solivérès has emerged as one On the see-and-be-seen circuit, of the greatest in Paris, challeng- the star is still the Buddha Bar, ing some big-name chefs. His 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8e (& 01- Provençal cookery is the freshest 53-05-90-00). The crowd doesn’t and among the best in the whole come for the cuisine, though its country. See p. 137. fusion of French and Pacific Rim • Best Old-Fashioned Bistro: is exceedingly well executed. If Established in 1931 and bouncing you don’t want to eat, stop by the back from a period of decline, hip, lacquered bar across from the Allard, 41 rue St-André-des-Arts, dining room. See p. 134. 6e (& 01-43-26-48-23), is better • Worst-Kept Secret: In the heart than ever, from its zinc bar to its of the Latin Quarter, Perraudin, repertoire of French classics— 157 rue St-Jacques, 5e (& 01-46- escargots, frogs’ legs, foie gras, 33-15-75), duplicates the allure of boeuf à la mode (marinated beef), an early-1900s bistro. You get the and cassoulet. This is a good bet feeling Emile Zola could walk in for real Left Bank bistro ambi- any minute. It offers great food and ence. See p. 152. great value, and an old-fashioned • Best Rising Chef: In the residen- dining experience that’s rapidly tial 17th arrondissement, chef disappearing from the city. See Jacques Fassat is luring tout Paris p. 150. to La Braisière, 54 rue Cardinet, • Best Brasserie: Head for the Left 17e (& 01-47-63-40-37), with his Bank and the Brasserie Balzar, take on the succulent cuisine of 49 rue des Ecoles, 5e (& 01-43- southwest France. In 2004 Fassat 54-13-67), which opened in won his first Michelin star, and if 1898. If you dine on the familiar our last visit was an indication of French food here, you’ll be follow- things to come, there may be other ing in the footsteps of Sartre and stars in his future. See p. 145. Camus and others. You can even • Best View: A penthouse restaurant, have a complete dinner in the mid- La Tour d’Argent, 15–17 quai dle of the afternoon. See p. 147. de la Tournelle, 5e (& 01-43-54- • Best Seafood: The fattest lobsters 23-31), is owned by ex-playboy and prawns in the Rungis market Claude Terrail, who pays part of emerge on platters at Goumard, Notre-Dame’s electric bill to illu- 9 rue Duphot, 1e (& 01-42-60- minate the cathedral at night for 36-07), so chic that even the toilets his diners’ pleasure. Dining here is are historic monuments. Nothing a theatrical event. See p. 146. interferes with the taste of the sea: • Best Provincial Restaurant: The You’d have to fly to the Riviera to cuisine of the Auvergne in central find a better bouillabaisse. See France is showcased at Bath’s, 9 p. 120. rue de la Trémoille, 8e (& 01-40- • Best Cuisine Bourgeoise (Com- 70-01-09). In a cozy, elegant set- fort Food): If Joyce, Verlaine, ting, you can dine on the best Valéry, and Hemingway rose from 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 10

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the grave today and strode into the 7 , 4e (& 01-48- Crémerie-Restaurant Polidor, 87-20-16), where the carpe farcie 41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 6e (stuffed carp) is outstanding and (& 01-43-26-95-34), not only beef goulash a fine runner-up. See would they not notice any differ- p. 129. ences, not even on the menu, but • Best American Cuisine: A Yan- they could ask for their napkins, kee outpost in Les Halles, Joe which are locked in a cabinet in Allen, 30 rue Pierre-Lescot, 1e back with their names on them. (& 01-42-36-70-13), serves the See p. 154. finest burgers in Paris. Desserts • Best Atmosphere: A favorite of include New York cheesecake, Colette and Cocteau, the world- pecan pie made with pecans famous Le Grand Véfour, 17 rue imported from the United States, de Beaujolais, 1e (& 01-42-96- and an inspired cultural fusion of 56-27), at the Palais-Royal, has an American brownies made with interior classified as a historic French chocolate. See p. 121. monument. Incidentally, it serves • Best Vegetarian Cuisine: One of some of the most refined cuisine the best-known veggie restaurants in Paris. See p. 117. in is Le Marais, 54 rue • Best Lyonnais Cuisine: Lyon is Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 4e hailed as France’s gastronomic (& 01-48-87-48-71). Choose from capital, and the best place in Paris the array of soups and salads, or to introduce yourself to its cuisine have a mushroom tart or a galette is Aux Lyonnais, 32 rue St-Marc, (a flat pastry) of wheat with raw 2e (& 01-42-96-65-04). This vegetables. In this rustic 17th- fin-de-siècle bistro turns out the century setting, you can expect dishes for which Lyon is famous, flavorful, wholesome, and gener- from perfect pike dumplings to ous meals. See p. 129. Lyonnais sausages—all washed • Best Wine Cellar: At the elegant down, of course, with Beaujolais. Lasserre, 17 av. Franklin D. Roo- See p. 123. sevelt, 8e (& 01-43-59-53-43), • Best Kosher Food: If corned beef, you’ll find not only wonderful pastrami, herring, and dill pickles food but also one of the great wine thrill you, head to rue des Rosiers cellars of France, with some in the 4th arrondissement (Métro: 160,000 bottles. See p. 136. St-Paul). John Russel wrote that • Best for Cheese: Cheese is king at rue des Rosiers is the “last sanctu- Androuët sur le Pouce, 49 rue ary of certain ways of life; what St-Roch, 1e (& 01-42-97-57-39). you see there in miniature is War- Many cheese lovers opt for a saw before the ghetto was razed.” bottle of wine, a green salad, and North African overtones reflect all-you-can-eat choices from the the long-ago arrival of Jews from most sophisticated dégustation de Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria. fromages (cheese-sampling menu) The best time to go is Sunday in the world. See p. 123. morning: You can wander the • Best Late-Night Dining: There’s streets eating as you go—apple no place better in Paris to get a strudel, Jewish rye bread, pickled good meal at 3am than Au Pied lemons, smoked salmon, and mer- de Cochon, 6 rue Coquillière, 1e guez, a spicy smoked sausage from (& 01-40-13-77-00). Though Algeria. Many spots offer sit-down everyone lauds its grilled pig’s feet meals, like Chez Jo Goldenberg, with béarnaise sauce, few have 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 11

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noticed you can also find some of des Lilas, 171 bd. du Montpar- the freshest oysters in town here. nasse, 6e (& 01-40-51-34-50), See p. 120. savor the best champagne julep in • Best Champagne Julep: While the world at the bar. See p. 152. you wait for a table at Closerie

4 The Best Cafes For full details on the following cafes, • Most Legendary Hangout: Once turn to chapter 6, “Where to Dine.” a gathering place for French intel- • Most Evocative Left Bank Cafe: lectuals, , 6 Old bohemia still lives at the bat- place St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e tered but artistic Quartier Latin (& 01-45-48-55-25), is still going cafe, La Palette, 43 rue de Seine, strong, with tourists now sitting at 6e (& 01-43-26-68-15), where tables where Gore Vidal and James patrons still down the same Ricard Baldwin once did. See p. 165. and Pernod they did back in the • Most Nostalgic Cafe: In the 1930s. See p. 164. wake of the worldwide success of • Most Historical Cafe: Fans of the low budget film Amélie, Café French history flock to Le Procope, des Deux Moulins, 15 rue Lepic, 13 rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie, 6e 18e (& 01-42-54-90-50), where (& 01-40-46-79-00), where such Amélie worked as a waitress in the luminaries as Voltaire, Oscar Wilde, film, is luring droves of “cult visi- and Napoleon used to hang out. tors” to its 1950s precincts. Its The ground floor is outfitted like musty atmosphere of unisex toi- an antique library. See p. 164. lets and antique lace curtains is

Tips The Best Websites for Paris

Surf these recommended websites for information on the City of Light: • Bonjour Paris, www.bparis.com, is one of the most comprehensive and fun sites about life in Paris, written from an American-expatri- ate point of view. You can also subscribe to a regular e-newsletter. • Paris Digest, www.parisdigest.com, is an independent site contain- ing articles that link to restaurants, hotels, museums, monuments, parks, and activities. It includes city history and tips for getting around. • Paris Pages, www.paris.org, offers a wealth of information on Paris for a widespread audience. The lodging reviews are organized by area and by the nearby monuments. The guide includes an event calendar, shop listings, a map of attractions with details about each, and photo tours. • Paris Tourist Office, www.paris-touristoffice.com, offers informa- tion on city events arranged by week, month, favorites, and year, plus the closest Métro stops for museums, lodgings, restaurants, and nightlife. You can tour parks and gardens and discover Paris’s trendy districts. 01_568957 ch01.qxd 7/8/04 10:05 PM Page 12

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the most evocative place in Mont- (& 01-45-48-55-26), basks in its martre for a glass of Côtes du memories of its famous visitors, Rhône, or whatever. See p. 165. who included Camus, Picasso, • Most Quintessential Paris Left and Apollinaire. Even though Bank Cafe: Vying with Deux tourists now take up the tables Magots (see above), Café de here, Café de Flore still pulls off a Flore, 172 bd. St-Germain, 6e Left Bank aura. See p. 162.