MACHINERY Shima Seiki, Tatsumi Seiki, Koseisha, and Yoshino Knitting Machinery displayed their electronic pattern knitting ma- Satoru Ito chines, with Matsutani Iron Works alone exhibiting a non- Representative Director, Knit Engineering Co., Ltd. electronic machine. The current electronization in the field of ma- 1. Introduction chines features an across-the-board introduction of mecha- The national production of machines in 1980 tronics throughout the whole mechanism of the knitting amounted to 219.3 billion yen, of which machines machine, in of addition to the adoption of the electronic account for 26 %, spinning machines 19 %, dyeing and finish- principle in needle selection for pattern knitting. A typical ing machines 15 %, preparatory machines 15 %, knitting example was the demonstration of intasria knitting of com- machines 11 %, and chemical fiber machines, needles, parts plicated patterns in this fad. and others 14%. Of the above total production of knitting In the field of hosiery machines, Nagata Seiki was the only machines, 34 % was accounted for by ma- domestic exhibitor. However, the company introduced many chines, 26 % by hosiery machines, 13 % by flat knitting ma- new models with electronic controls incorporated in a broad chines, 10% by machines, and 17% by fishnet range of systems, suggesting a great advance in the field. and braid machines. There was no impressive machine of overseas origin, with The general impression of knitting machines on display at only Santoni (Italy), Investa (Czechoslovakia) and Fusei OTEMAS-1981 was that, as compared with other textile ma- Machinery Industry (Korea) being represented. chines, the number of units on show was limited and, espe- cially, that of foreign brands was very small. A very regret- 2. Circular Knitting Machines table scene, indeed. Gunze Sangyo exhibited a rotary cylinder electronic gar- As to circular knitting machines, it was rather a desolate ment length machine RK33T (Fig. 1) which was manufac- scene that such giants in the area of single knitting machines as Fukuhara Sangyo and Camber were not represented. Generally speaking, there were only a few new models. This was probably occasioned by the fact that such goals as high speed, multiple feed, high , electronically con- trolled patterning and pattern knitting, etc. had already been accomplished 100 percent by elaboration of the conventional techniques and the fact that the industry is by now oriented to soft ware, e.g. the development of textures with the ex- isting equipment, remodeling of plain knitting machines to pile and fleecy knitting machines, diversification to rough gauges, etc. Referring to changes in machine types, we do not remem- ber if a pile was displayed at the first OTE- MAS held 5 years ago. But it was surprising that with the worldwide pile fashion, a large number of single knitting machines, especially pile and fleecy knitting machines, were displayed at the current show. As for warp knitting machines, Japan Meyer was the only tured by Ohkuma Iron Work. Its specifications are 33 in. dia., name represented and, therefore, we could not make a com- 12G, bodice feeders 20, rib feeders 4, transferring feed- parative evaluation. It was pleasurable, however, that while ers 8 and pattern change in 5 min. for 130 thousand stitches. warp knitting machinery had lagged behind the circular and Azuma Seisakusho, a medium manufacturer mainly pro- flat knitting machines, there were on display a compound ducing machines for domestic users, introduced 3 models of needle tricot machine equipped with an electronically con- sinker latch needle plain fabric circular knitting machines in trolled yarn feed and an electronically controlled chainless the AR-S series (Fig. 2) and a reversible AR-HD circular rib multiple-reed raschel machine, indicating the utiliza- knitting machine. tion of mechatronics and compound needle concepts in the Tomen displayed Terrot (West Germany) S-1108 four- realm of warp knitting machines. stage sinker latch needle plain fabric circular knitting ma- In the field of flat knitting machines, except for solid knit- chines and SP-148 pile knitting machine (Fig. 3), 26 in., 20G, ting machines, electronic control has by now become the 42 feeders. As will be seen from the photograph, two sinkers order of the day and at this show, too, Stoll (West Germany), one for the ground and the other for pile are set in a single

Vol. 28 No. 4 (1982) 107 sinker groove, with the pile loop being prevented from tres- passing the ground and the 3.3 mm pile being obtainable with the 2.8 mm sinker. Nikko Shoji exhibited MRI (U.S.)'s electronic high-pile machine HP-12MMS (Fig. 4) of the renowned Wildman Jac- quard type, 24 in., dia.14G,12 feeders, 4-step cam, 60 r.p.m. with a electronic weight cotrol. Toyota Sulzer Hambai displayed a high-spead knitting universal machine RS-72 from Sulzer-Morat(West Germany) (30 in. dia., 72 feeders, 20G, 35 r.p.m.) and a high speed spe- cialized circular rib machine RF-HS from Sulzer-Albi (West Germany) (16 in. dia.,18G, 24 feeders, 75 r.p.m.). Pernick displayed a Spandex Positive Yarn Feed IRO IEPF5405 (Fig. 5) and demonstrated a variety of reversible knitting operations with a Fukuhara single knitting machine.

108 Journal of The Textile Machinery Society of Japan 3. Warp Knitting Machines Japan Mayerexhibited Karl Mayer warp knitting machines. A KS-3 compound needle electronic yarn delivery tricot ma- chine (Fig. 6), 130 in, 28G, 3 reeds, 900 r.p.m., was made its using 12 to 18 spindles as illustrated. debut for the first time in this country. The beam is provided The MRS42-SU Electronic Patterning 42-reed lace raschel with a worm gear which is driven by a pulse-controlled D.C. machine (Fig. 8) on show had the specifications of 130 in., motor. 24G, 42 reeds and 400 r.p.m. Without chain links, the machine The KS2MSU compound needle weft feeding tricot machine performs summation patterning. In the case of the same pat- (Fig. 7), 130 in, 24G, 900 r.p.m., 2 reeds, has a capacity of tern yarn, the time of 3 to 6 hours required before is now as 120 m/hr. As to weft yarn feed, are paid out in parallel short as one hour and in the case of different pattern yarns,

Vol. 28 No. 4 (1982) 109 the time has been reduced from one week to a single day. 4. Flat Knitting Machine This was the first debut in Japan. Also displayed were the KS4FBZ compound needle inter- Tomen exhibited 3 Stoll (West Germany) electronically lock pile tricot knitting machine, 130 in., 20G, 4 reeds, 800 controlled machines. All of them were on show at ITMA/ r.p.m., the RD6DPLM/12 latch needle double raschel machine 1979. CNCA-3 was an electronic 4-cam V bed jacquard knitting and the RMCS casual wear 5-reed raschel machine. machine, 200 cm, 5-12G, 60 c/min, capable of knit/tuck/miss Aside from warp knitting machines, the SKM 64/55 elec- selection in one course and transferring in both directions to tronic patterning torsion lace knitting machine (Fig. 9), 64 the forward and backward needle beds with the forward and spindles, 55 mm pitch, 350 r.p.m. and the DSV21 /30 OPW rearward cams. That is to say, the machine enables pearl (Fig. 10) ultra-high speed direct warper were on show. knitting in one traverse stroke. The patented transfer needle permits fullspeed transferring to the vacant needle without a latch opener. The LNCU Electronic double transfer jacquard machine (Fig. 11) has 4 sets of electronic needle selection mecha- nisms which permit simultaneous knitting and transferring in both directions, 205 cm, 8G, 17 c/min.

The ANVH-1 electronic double cam full jacquard intarsia knitting machine, 200 cm, 4-12G, 44 c/min, has eleven spe- cial yarn feed guides on 3 double sided rails and an electroni- cally controlled stop block by which 1 to 7 needles can be transferred at once. The action width is infinite over the needle bed. Also displayed was a VDU pattern preparing machine which makes programming easy by Sintral dialogue. Shima Seiki exhibited eleven flat knitting machines and a Simatronic Tape Making System. The company occupied the largest display space as a manufacturer of flat knitting ma- chines and excelled in both quality and quantity of exhibits. Displayed were the SNC 202 FF electronic double cam jac- quard transferring-forming machine (Fig. 12), the SNC 182 TI

I10 Journal of The Textile Machinery Society of Japan electronic double cam both side transferring intarsia machine (Fig. 13), a multi-purpose machine which permits knit/tuck/ miss selection in the same course and capable of mixed intar- sia and plain jacquard knits, and the SEC 161 FF electronic single cam jacquard transferring-forming machine (Fig. 14)

machine was a compact version of NC 5, 162 cm, 12G. The FAST-SSII sequencer controlled single-cam semi jacquard transferring machine featured a sequencer electronic control instead of conventional steel card control, 157 cm, 14G, 35 c/min. The design system was one utilizing the DS PASTIC- Mini of Dainippon Screen Mfg. Co., Ltd. Koseisha introduced a K160 electronic single cam intarsia knitting machine (Fig. 16) which was a beefed-up version of K150. It is 100 cm, 6-12G, 36 c/min., automatic change, 4-17 colors, 4 yarn change drive motors, playback CNC cassette data which ensure a simplified operation.

which is equipped with a stitch pressor as a standard acces- sory. All of these 3 machines are such that the cams are con- trolled by a pulse motor for automatic switching in 7 stages during operation, and are capable of a maximum of 14 stage transfers with the corresponding trunk of the transfer needle thinned to provide a broadened space with respect to the blade. A total of 6 machines, i.e. 3 SNC units and 3 SEC units, were operated for demonstration purposes. Also displayed were a DSF full-automatic semi-jacquard forming machine, an SJB electronic narrow-width tape knit- ting machine, an SIB electronic 7-color vertical stripe braiding machine, an SFG full automatic seamless glove knitting ma- chine, etc. Ambitiously, Tatsumi Seiki exhibited 4 machines, all of which were new models. These represented improvements over JAST-NC 5. The JAST-NC 5/I-8 electronic intarsia transferring jacquard machine, 213 cm, 12G., (Fig. 15) is equipped with 8 intarsia transferring motors instead of 4 mo- tors in the earlier machine and accordingly named 1-8. The range of patterning was thus greatly broadend. The JAST- NC 5/FF electronic jacquard transferring-forming machine Gunze Sangyo displayed Yoshino Knitting Machinery's was equipped with knit pressors, transferring pressors and YSE electronic single cam transferring machine, 157 cm, 7- forming stop block transfer devices (213 cm, 12G, double- 14G, 8-color change on both sides, with pile knitting attach- cam). The JAST-NC 6 electronic jacquard transferring ment.

Vol. 28 No. 4 (1982) 111 Matsutani Iron Works exhibited a sleeve knitting machine, a trimming machine, a full-automatic seamless gloove knitting machine, etc. Representative was the MSF-100 rahben 2-stage down sleeve knitting machine (Fig. 17). Tomen displayed Scheller (West Germany)'s BSW full fashion machine (Fig. 18), 36 in, 4-section, 9-21G, full-auto- matic topping machine, and a trans-robot (for automatic rib top and automatic full-fashion machine).

machine (Fig. 20), double sylinder type 4 in. dia., 3 tops, 20-50G, 150-160 r.p.m., is an electronic version of the ear- lier NJL. Rimoldi (Italy) exhibited an elastic lace super-high-speed The EJL electronic 2-top 3-color link jacquard knitting ma- crochet machine ECR-22/0805 (Fig. 19), 80 cm wide, 12- 15G. Cometz (Italy) exhibited a frenge crochet machine MA- chine (Fig. 21), 3-1/4-4 in. dia., 24-50G, 150-160 r.p.m., is a new machine incorporating a link knitting mechanism in the FV/800, 80 cm wide, IOG, 150-250 picks/min. EJ model exhibited at '79 ITMA. The single-cylinder KSBE electronic double welt sock knit- 5. Hosiery Machines ter (Fig. 22) was an electronic version of the earlier KS 232 B Nagata Seiki exhibited a large number of machines and machine. The KSE electronic double welt 2-top spiral machine the outstanding technical innovations crystallized therein (Fig. 23) was an electric version of the earlier KS 232 machine. gathered attention. Of the five sock knitting machines on In addition to these knitting machines, the Pattern Pro- show, four were electronic and represented the highest level gram System 2002 was introduced for compatible patterning. of technology in the world. A couple of panty stocking machines were on display. The The EJL electronic 2-top 3-color link jacquard knitting KT-Super 4 was a 4-top seamless stocking machine, 4 in. dia.,

112 Journal of The Textile Machinery Society of Japan 400-428, 900 r.p.m. The KT-Super 24 (Fig. 24) was a 24- stage, 60-rack seamless stocking machine equipped with 4 patterning pin drums, 4 inch dia., 4-top, 360-434 needles, 3-speeds (600, 400 and 200). This was a machine adapted to the current fashionable styling. Aside from the foregoing machines, a 2-top rib sock knit- ting machine of R-2 separate type was also on show. Investa exhibited two sock knitting machines, double- cylinder and single-cylinder. Santoni (Italy) displayed a Mira- bella 4-p panty stocking machine.

6. Conclusion The outstanding innovations in textile machinery as dis- covered at the recent OTEMAS included the MJS air spin- ning frame which produces a yarn with the aid of an air vortex and the mach splicer which splices yarns without knots by means of an air vortex in the realm of spinning machinery, and the competitive demonstrations of air jet looms by sever- al exhibitors in the field of weaving machines. Thus, the utilization of pneumatic principles was a focus of the show. In the field of knitting machinery, a general penetration of electronics was a prominent trend, but there was no birth of any new epocal mechanism for loop formation. It was a pity that we could not see an air jet knitting system such that a loop is formed by blowing yarns into channels by means of air pressure and a is produced by forcing out a new loop from the inner side of an old loop. As to the current level of knitting technology, beard need- les have receded and compound needles have come into the fore. But latch needles remain to be dominant. However, latch needles have their own disadvantages. It is desirable to develop a that will take place of the latch needle and a knitting mechanism compatible with such a new type of needle. A changeover to compound needles could be an answer to this problem. As the needle action by a cam mechanism has reached a limit angle-wise, it is desir- able that we see the advent of a new needle operating system. Electronically controlled needle operation utilizing pulse signals and an electromagnetic drive could be a possibility if the stroke is reduced or divided to shorten the path. While knitting machines have developed in the distinct areas of circular, plain and warp knitting machines, a radical review of the mechanisms of each machine from electronic points of view might lead to a remarkable new technology. A few possible approaches might be to convert a uniform action of all needles to independent actions and to use cam rings revolving in positive and reverse directions in two tracks for alternating reciprocation in yarn paths so as to make the linear reciprocating action a circular motion. At the recent OTEMAS, Metap (Chechoslovakia) exhib- ited its knitting weave machine for the first times in Japan. It had been introduced in the reviews of '79 ITMA and '80 Fig. 24

Vol. 28 No. 4 (1982) 113 ATMF. In mechanism, it was a multi-phase textile machine covering both weaving and knitting functions, and was a ma- TESTING APPARATUS chine that does not require mechatronics. Mixing of weaving Sei Uchiyama and knitting could be a theme of study. Kyoto Insitute of Technology,Kyoto Juxptaposed with no-man sewing may be seamless knit- ting. If developed from stereo knitting by pressor foots and I. General Impression seamless glove knitting, seamless knitted garments might not The general impression of the exhibition is summarized as be mere dreams. follows: The characteristic of automobile, electric appliance, elec- a. Variety and progress of sensors tronics, steel and other manufactures in Japan who are at the Various sensors to detect body shape, position, speed, highest levels of technology in the world today may be sum- weight, force, temperature, humidity, etc. have become small marized as technical innovation and quality control. and sensitive, and articles subject to inspection got diversity. Japan has ample skilled human resources. It is hoped that Non-touch type sensors have increased, though their price is these human vitality be imbibed into the knitting industry cheaper than before. to create one technological innovation after another and that b. Data processing apparatus many new epock-making machines be introduced at further Small and handy data processings are spread, and they OTEMAS and other shows. make the contents of processing rich. Real time system is also increased. c. Reflection of market needs Improvements to answere the market needs are carried out, such as saving energy, saving worker, saving time.

2. Yarn Testers The Stress-Strain Tester for Spun Yarns (Shikibo Co.)

Fig. 1 Stress-strain curve (Shikibo Co.)

Fig. 2 Histogram of strength (Shikibo Co.)

114 Journal of The Textile Machinery Society of Japan