Welcome!...... 2 Why Build a Vacuum Press? ...... 3 Disclaimer...... 4 Parts and Construction Overview ...... 5 Parts ...... 6 Miscellaneous Items...... 7 Construct the Reservoir Tank ...... 9 Connect the Vacuum Device...... 11 Build the Stand ...... 12 Connections ...... 13 Wiring the Unit ...... 14 Initial Testing...... 15 Making the Vacuum Bag...... 16 Connect the Bag to the System Method #1 (of 2) ...... 19 Make the Bag ...... 21 Make the Platens/Cauls ...... 23 The Secret...Finally Revealed ...... 25 Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repairs ...... 26 Conclusion...... 27 Glues and Adhesives...... 28 Applying Adhesives...... 30 Veneer Glue Comparison...... 31 Substrate Material ...... 32 Veneer Storage...... 33 Flattening a Veneer ...... 34 Veneer Seams ...... 35 Larger Seams ...... 36 Veneer Seams ...... 37 HH-66 Vinyl Cement MSDS ...... 39

1

By Joe Gorleski Edited by John Tarbutton This is the venturi powered version of the vacuum press article.

Welcome!

After a year and a half of serious trial and error, and another year of updating and improving, I offer this guide to building a vacuum veneer press. Make no mistake... this is a durable and reliable piece of equipment. If you follow the instructions carefully, the press will last for as long as you enjoy the art of veneering.

I want to thank you for allowing me to show you what I have learned about veneering. I am certainly not a professional woodworker (or wordworker), and still have a lot to learn myself.

The venturi powered version of the vacuum press uses air The pump driven version of the vacuum press uses an from your compressor to create vacuum. electric vacuum pump.

Most of the veneering books and articles I have read were complicated and geared to a more professional approach requiring proprietary materials and equipment. This article isn't exactly brief, but it does streamline some of the concepts. Hopefully, it will prevent you from making time consuming and costly mistakes.

The vacuum veneer press is capable of producing up to 1900lbs per foot of pressure at 28“ Hg, yet weighing only 20 pounds itself. When vacuum is applied, atmospheric pressure bears down with exponential force. Not only does this press the veneer onto the substrate, it also compresses the fibers of the materials being glued. As the fibers are compressed, the air inside of the materials is displaced with glue and within an hour, a bond is made.

I wrote this article to prove that you don‘t need a mega-buck setup to do professional veneering on flat panels, such as table tops and doors (to name just a few).

2 Why Build a Vacuum Press? (Or Why Not To Buy A Pre-Assembled Vacuum System)

• You are a woodworker and you enjoy building things right? By building a vacuum press, not only will you understand how the system works, you'll also get the satisfaction of knowing your veneered panels came out perfectly because you built the system. • The vacuum unit is very easy to build. The average builder can have the unit completed in 2 hours. • It is quite inexpensive to build compared to the big name vacuum presses. • This vacuum press requires no proprietary parts. In other words, if something would ever need replacement, you will be able to find the parts without a hassle. • This vacuum press will work on any size project from humidor lids to large table tops and even curved and bent lamination work. • Due to the non-proprietary nature of the veneer press, you'll find it very easy to modify and adapt. Many users are now building vacuum presses for use with vacuum chucking (when bowl turning) as well as vacuum clamping and templating. • Unlike the big vacuum press companies, the vacuum bags require no special equipment, chemicals, or kits to repair. If you built the bag with parts described in this article, you can patch a bag in less than a minute! • Since the press is built with heavy duty parts, it's durable, reliable, and predictable. • The venturi version of the vacuum press has only one moving part! • The motorized pump version of the vacuum press operates quietly. You can carry on a conversation while standing right next to the system. • You can subscribe to the JoeWoodworker newsletter to receive notification of major updates to the veneer press. • Hundreds of completed vacuum presses are in use around the world. From October '02 through February '03, I answered over 1200 emails for woodworkers, hi-fi speaker builders, and radio control and glider builders. Many of these emails resulted in adjustments and clarifications to the vacuum press article. • The vacuum press is continuously being improved. I use the vacuum press on a regular basis and I'm always looking for an easier, more durable, or less expensive way to modify the unit. And with hundreds of users around the world, I receive regular emails with contributions and suggestions. • I support this vacuum system 150%. If you have any question before, during, or after its construction, do not hesitate to email me.

VeneerSupplies.com Veneer Glue, Veneer Tape, Veneer , and Vacuum Press Parts.

3 Disclaimer (Please read thoroughly) Neither the author, nor Joewoodworker.com or its subsidiary websites and businesses, shall assume any responsibility for any incident, accident, nor otherwise in regard to this document and the item in which it describes. No warranty or representation, either expressed or implied, is made with respect to the quality, accuracy, or fitness for any particular part of this document. In no event shall the author and Joewoodworker.com or its subsidiary websites and businesses be liable for direct, indirect, special, incidental, or consequential damages arising from any information contained herein. The user/builder/owner of the system shall assume all risk. It is also agreed that the author and Joewoodworker.com and its subsidiary websites and businesses do not provide any form of insurance of fitness of this device for any use: commercial or otherwise. The user/builder/owner shall hold the author and Joewoodworker.com harmless for any mishap, injury, or untoward occurrence.

The user/builder/operator agrees to indemnify the author and Joewoodworker.com and its subsidiary websites and businesses and save them harmless against any claim for damages, compensation, or otherwise on the part of any person or persons. Trademarks and product names appearing in this document are for identification purpose only, and are property of their respective owners.

Anyone using any of the information collected during a JoeWoodworker.com visit does so at their own risk and they assume complete responsibility for their actions while learning or using this information. Anyone building equipment based on information collected from JoeWoodworker.com and its subsidiary websites and businesses does so at their own risk and assumes complete responsibility for the use of that equipment by themselves or others. JoeWoodworker.com and its subsidiary websites and businesses are not responsible for any personal injuries to the user/builder/owner or others associated with or property damage resulting from building or operating this vacuum press. Maintaining equipment and evaluating its suitability for a specific situation are the soul responsibility of the user/builder/owner and not that of JoeWoodworker.com or its subsidiary websites and businesses. You agree to use the information at your own risk and should use good judgment during its usage at all times. The user/builder/owner of this system are encouraged at all times to work safely within their ability. The contributing authors to this website are not responsible for any mistakes or omissions in the material contained on this site. Users/builders/owners injured by building/operating this equipment assume complete responsibility for their actions and injuries. They also assume complete responsibility for any property damage and injuries inflicted on others during said acts.

Copyright

This document contains materials protected under copyright laws of the United States of America as well as International Copyright Laws. All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, transmitted, or transcribed electronically or otherwise without the expressed written permission of the author.

Please do not distribute this document.

Information presented on JoeWoodworker.com is intended for nonprofessional personal usage only. Any organizations whether they are profit, nonprofit, clubs, charities, web based groups or otherwise must obtain express permission from JoeWoodworker.com before using any material for purposes other than strictly personal. This includes but is not limited to textual write-up, pictures and video clips. Professional organizations and web site developers using information from this article and incorporating it into products sold for profit or otherwise is expressly forbidden.

4 Parts and Construction Overview In the following pages, you will find the do‘s and don‘ts that pertain to making a quality vacuum veneer press. There will be a few parts that need to be ordered (here at JoeWoodworker or elsewhere) and you'll need to make a trip to your local hardware store as well. Just about any hardware store will carry most of the items that are required for the press. I suggest that you begin building your vacuum press only after you have thoroughly read this article from start to finish. I also suggest that you avoid substituting any items listed in this article, unless you are sure the part is fully compatible with the various components of this system.

There are two types of vacuum presses that can be built. The construction method in this article uses compressed air to create vacuum and works flawlessly. The venturi version of the press requires a minimum of 20 gallon air compressor (for small to medium sized vacuum bags).

The other construction method, which uses an electric vacuum pump, is different only in so far as it is a tad bit quieter. I have built both of these types of presses, and my results have always been identical... perfect adhesion!

Check this out! This book-matched Circassian walnut just a bit scary. Ahh…the wonders of nature.

VeneerSupplies.com Veneer Glue, Veneer Tape, Veneer Saws, and Vacuum Press Parts.

5 Parts: The following parts should be available at your local hardware store:

Approximate Quantity Item Description Picture Cost 1 10' Extension cord $2.00

10' ³" Inside diameter vinyl tubing (clear and soft, not $2.00 opaque and hard)

*Note - 3/8" ID tubing will collapse under vacuum pressure, so stick with the 1/4"ID tubing. 1 ³" Male-side quick connect fitting with male threads $2.00 (to connect to your air compressor)

1 Spool of electrical solder $2.00

1 Can of acetone or xylene $3.00

1 Sheet of ½" MDF (2' X 2' is plenty) $3.00 (to build the stand for the press)

15" 4" Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe Free? Local plumbing supplier might have a small piece for free

2 4" PVC schedule 40 pipe cap $6.00 ea

1 Small jar of PVC cement $3.00

1 Small tube of silicone $2.50

1 ²" Diameter rod - 36" long $1.00

2 Hose clamps 7" Diameter $1.00 ea They are usually adjustable from 4" to 7"

6 Miscellaneous Items You can help to support this article and save time and money by purchasing the following parts through VeneerSupplies.com

Veneer Retail Quantity Item Description Supplies.com Picture Price Price 1 Roll of Teflon Tape $1.00 Less than Retail

1 Check valve $15.00 Less than Retail

1 Pack of "Universal Clamp-in" valve $13.00 Less than stems Available at your local for 4 Retail automotive store. stems Camel #30-445-7 (used for veneer press vacuum bags) We also offer an improved version of these with a vinyl flange which helps make a better seal 1 Wika general purpose vacuum Varies Less than Retail Case: Black ABS plastic Window: Snap-in acrylic or Dial Size: 2" 1 Wika industrial grade vacuum gauge Varies Less than with heavy-duty sensing elements and Retail a stainless steel case. This industrial gauge offers greater accuracy than general purpose gauges and is typically used in more demanding applications. It is glycerin filled and this makes the needle steady and much easier to read

Case: Stainless Steel Window: Polycarbonate Dial Size: 2" 1 Venturi Vacuum Pump From Less than (Air Powered Vacuum) $30.00 Retail Deleted: Hi-end manufacturers such as Piab up to There are many different types make great units but they are a bit $150.00 of venturi vacuums. pricey. You can also find a good unit Deleted: ¶ Autotoolexpress.com ($53)

If you are building a system that runs on a refrigerant compressor, this item is not necessary.

7 1 Vacuum Pressure Controller $26.00- Less than The most critical piece for the vacuum $115.00 Retail system. UL/CSA Approved microswitch with 25 msec response time. Adjustable from 1.5" to 30" of Hg. Contact Rating: 10amp. ? 30 Gauge Clear Vinyl $14.00 Less than Available at your local canvas awning to Retail supplier or upholstery store $18.50 per yard 1 HH-66 Vinyl cement part # 7506 $14.00 Less than Imperial Inc. : 1-800-558-2808 Retail

1 Mac Valve $29.00 Less than This is the mechanical piece of the Retail press that turns the air flow from your air compressor on and off. You need one that operates on 110VAC, allows at least 4.2CFM of free flow, 1/4" NPT threads, and has at least one normally closed port.

If you are building a system that runs on a refrigerant compressor, this item is not necessary. 3 Brass Fittings - ³" hose barb to ³" $1.10 Less than male thread ea Retail

1 Breather/Filter $2.60 Less than This part prevents dirt and debris for Retail getting inside the top port of the Mac valve. It is not a crucial part but its one that will make the valve last much longer.

8 Construction: The Reservoir Tank The reservoir tank is used to hold spare vacuum pressure. It prevents the vacuum source from having to cycle on and off frequently. The reservoir tank that is used with this system is 4“ diameter schedule 40 PVC. Be sure that you purchase only this type of PVC. It can be found at your local plumbing shop. In fact, it is best to buy it at a plumbing shop because if you were to find it at a hardware store, you would have to buy an 8‘ length of it. Your local plumber may even give it to you for free if you are lucky. Be 100% sure that it is schedule 40 PVC. You will need a 15“ length of it. The more reservoir space that is available, the less the unit has to turn on and off. This minimizes the wear and tear on the Mac valve. If you decide to make a larger vacuum reservoir it is best to —piggy back“ two similar sized tanks next to each other. This is done for the sake of security. Two smaller tanks are much less likely to be damaged by normal work shop hazards.

Be sure to check the PVC for cracks or pits. Any abnormalities in the PVC could allow leaks or even worse…an implosion. This is serious business. You don‘t want 1 billion pieces of plastic shrapnel flying at you!

Two schedule 40 end caps are used to make the reservoir's ends.

Tap the Tank

The top cap of the tank is going to need three holes drilled in it. I recommend using a press for this part. The first hole will hold the pressure gauge. The second hole will be for the barbed hose fitting, and will connect to the vacuum device to the vacuum source. The third hole is also for a fitting that will be connected to the veneer press bag via ³“ inside diameter tubing. The layout of the holes is not critical. Space the three holes approximately 2“ from each other in a triangle shape. When For the ³— pipe thread of the fittings, a 31/64" drill the holes use light pressure to prevent cracking bit will create a hole that is just snug enough for the the PVC cap. fittings. Remember, you will be threading the fittings into unthreaded plastic.

Use a wrench to turn one of the barbed fittings into a hole. Remember to screw them in straight. The first time you screw the fitting in, you may wish to use a light lubricant to aid in the threading process. Now remove the fitting and you'll see that you have created light thread marks in the PVC cap. Use the same fitting to "thread" the other two holes. After you have threaded each of the three holes, apply Teflon tape to the fittings and gauge and reinsert them into the cap. When attaching the gauge, be sure to turn it with a wrench at the bottom of the gauge and not body the gauge's body. Do not apply any pressure to the body of the gauge or it will surely break! Do not glue the cap onto the PVC pipe yet.

9 The vacuum controller must now be mounted. You will want to drill a 3/8" diameter hole about 6“ down from the top of the PVC pipe to accommodate the vacuum controller. The vacuum controller is what regulates when the vacuum device turns on. These are adjustable up to 29“ of Hg (Hg in the scientific symbol for mercury). Insert the vacuum controller's intake port through the hole in the reservoir to make sure the fit is snug. Do not rotate the vacuum controller to get it into the hole. You might break the intake port off. If the two pieces don not fit together, use your drill bit to slightly Inset Picture: O-ring attached enlarge the hole.

Before you attach the vacuum controller to the reservoir, place a moderate amount of silicone sealant on the body of the switch where it will be attached to the outside of the reservoir. Be sure that you do not get any silicone on the pressure intake of the switch.

You will see that the vacuum controller comes with a rubber O-ring (with switches purchased here at JWW) and a nut. The O-ring is applied between the inside wall of the PVC and the nut.

Silicone applied to body of vacuum controller.

Carefully tighten the nut on the inside of the PVC pipe by hand and then use a wrench or socket to tighten it ³“-turn further. Do not over-tighten the nut - The intake port is fragile. When tightening the vacuum controller, do not be tempted to hold the nut stationary and rotate the switch by hand because this will remove the silicone from under the switch body.

At this point, you can carefully cement the PVC pipe to the top and bottom cap. Use regular PVC cement and apply it generously to both sides of the mating areas. Twist and slide the parts together. Allow the PVC cement and silicone to cure before continuing. And for goodness sake, do this in a well ventilated area.

10 Connect the Vacuum Device

The venturi pump operates on compressed air. I have had no problem achieving full vacuum in moderately large bags with a 20 gallon compressor. The venturi requires specific air flow to operate efficiently. Since your unit will be cycling on and off during operation, you need a valve to open and close the airflow from your compressor. I suggest the Air Powered Venturi use of Mac Valve brand pneumatics. They are very reliable and energy Vacuum Pump efficient.

Airflow through the valve is critical! You need at least 4.2 CFM at 90 pounds of pressure to operate the venturi efficiently. Be careful...some valves do not have this much of an airflow rating. Be sure to get one that operates on 110VAC. To make things easier, try to get one that has 1/4" pipe threads. You can find them at your local pneumatics dealer or you can help to keep this veneer press article ad-free by purchasing the Mac valve at VeneerSupplies.com. Mac Valve

The venturi pump must be connected to the Mac valve as close as possible. Do not use bends or elbows in the connection. These items restrict airflow and prevent the venturi from achieving full vacuum. The venturi can create 28.3“ of Hg at sea level. This is substantially more than what is required for the veneer press. Due to the variety of Mac valves available, it is impossible to describe an exact method of connection from the valve to the venturi. If you have a purchased a Mac valve at a dealer, your best bet is to take the venturi and the valve to the hardware store and play around with the fittings until you find a combination that works. You can find a pre-assembled Mac/Venturi and each component below at VeneerSupplies.com

Be sure to use Teflon tape between each fitting as described below. The final assembly should look like this:

11 Build the Stand At this point, you will need to make a stand for the unit. The stand serves two purposes: It holds the system in place during use, and, serves as an area to fasten the venturi and the valve securely to the unit. Because of its affordable price, I chose for my stand. There are three pieces to the stand:

• 17" x 12" - One piece for the center • 8" x 11" - Two pieces for the side

Route a ½" down the center of the sides about 1/4" deep.

Drill 4 holes (5/8" diameter) to accommodate the 7" hose clamps and one hole for the wiring from the vacuum controller to the Mac valve. I opted to round over the top edges of the stand. Then attach the side pieces of the stand using glue and screws.

Install the body of the vacuum press onto the stand. Do not over tighten the hose clamps.

Use screws and/or double sided carpet tape to fasten the valve/venturi assembly to the back of the stand. Allow the quick connect coupling to overhang the side of the stand so the female coupling can be attached easily.

Please note: This image is from a previous version of the assembly, but it illustrates how the coupling should extend past the side.

12 Connections The next connection is a tricky one. In order for the vacuum reservoir to maintain pressure when the venturi is turned off, a check valve is required. A check valve is an enclosed one-way washer that permits airflow in one direction only. The direction that you attach the check valve is obviously critical. I have tried many check valves and have only found one that works flawlessly. I bought an outrageous quantity of these CV's to get the best price possible. They are available at the JWW web store. There are also more durable looking check valves available at Grainger but they do not work as well as this one.

The check valve body is a bit fragile. It's best to soak the vacuum tube in hot water to get it pliable before pushing it on to the check valve. When attaching the tube, be sure to apply pressure in-line with the barbed end. Don't try to wiggle it on. If the check valve is attached incorrectly and needs to be removed, the tubing must be cut off since simply pulling outward on the tube will break the check valve.

To determine the direction that the valve allows air flow, I just blow into it. It quickly becomes obvious how it‘s supposed to be attached.

The check valve is available at VeneerSupplies.com

13 Wiring the Unit The next step is wiring the vacuum controller to the Mac valve. For this, you need the lamp cord with plug (available at the hardware store). Feed the wires through the center hole in the stand and solder one wire to the N.C.(normally closed) terminal. Then solder the other wire to the C (common) terminal.

Hold the wires on the back side of the unit up to the terminals on the Mac valve. Cut one of the wires (either is fine). Solder one of these "broken" ends to one of the A/C terminals on the Mac valve and solder the other wire to the other A/C terminal. The terminals should be marked with a "+" and a "-". These are the A/C terminals. The other is a ground. You can make your own decision as to whether a ground wire will be necessary. I opted to not use the ground terminal.

Wiring Check: From the plug end, one wire should be unbroken up to the vacuum controller. The other wire should go to the Mac Valve, then to the vacuum controller. Simple enough eh?

Plug in the AC cord and listen for a click from the Mac valve. If you do not hear the Mac valve click, you may need to remove the wire from the N.C. terminal, and solder it to the N.O. terminal. The actual placement of the wires depends on the Mac valve, so you may have to experiment. Next, I used "liquid electrical tape" to insulate the terminals on the vacuum controller and the Mac valve. At this time, you can replace the plastic housing that the covers the terminals on the vacuum controller.

14 Initial Testing Place a small piece of duct tape over the open fitting on the top of the vacuum reservoir. Be sure you are wearing safety glasses and then plug in the AC cord. When you apply the A/C voltage you should here a small click as the Mac valve engages the valve coil.

Connect the airline from your compressor to the male fitting on the Mac valve. Be careful that you don't touch the exposed A/C terminals on the Mac valve. Air should now be flowing through the venturi and generating vacuum inside the reservoir.

Notice that there is a small plastic cap on the vacuum controller just in front of the —common“ tab. Under this cap, the adjustment is made for setting the amount of vacuum inside the unit.

For the next stage of testing, you want to carefully adjust the vacuum setting to 20“. Set your air compressor to at least 90 psi (Very important!). Connect the compressor to the Mac valve, and plug in the AC cord. Do not touch the tabs or bare wire on the vacuum controller while the unit is plugged in. Using a small flat screwdriver, slowly turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise until the unit creates 20“ of vacuum and cycles off. Remember: Counterclockwise turns of the screw increase the amount of vacuum required before the vacuum controller will turn off the air pressure at the Mac valve.

It will automatically cycle on again when the vacuum has decreased. The manufacturer of the vacuum controller claims that the switch cycles back to the "on" mode within 4“ of Hg decrease. This 4“ amount of —differential“ is not adjustable. (In my opinion, this constant increase and decrease of vacuum pressure inside the press bag makes an even greater bond of the veneer to the substrate.)

For venturi systems, the frequent on and off cycling is harmless. During normal operation of a tightly sealed unit, it is quite common to have the unit cycle on about every 10 minutes for 2 - 4 seconds.

Now that you have your system charged up with vacuum, apply a moderate amount of silicone to each of the fittings (the gauge, switch, and barbed connectors). If a pressure leak exists, the silicone will be pulled into the leaking area (by the vacuum pressure) causing the leak to seal itself. Pretty neat huh? Turn off the unit and let the air back into the PVC pipe by removing the duct tape. Allow the unit to sit overnight so the silicone can cure.

Attach an 8‘ piece of ³“ inside diameter vinyl tubing to the open fitting on top of the PVC pipe. This piece of tubing is what connects your veneer press to the vacuum bag.

15 Making the Vacuum Bag The process of making an airtight bag eluded me for many months. Time after time, I would make a decent sized bag and take all the necessary steps to prepare and seal it, only to notice a tiny leak somewhere. It was nothing but pure accident that led me to discover a solution that seals the leaks on even my oldest bags. The secret …? Well… read on.

The vinyl can be purchased at any place that makes boat covers or canvas awnings. If you have a difficulty finding vinyl for the bags, you can purchase vinyl at VeneerSupplies.com. There are a several different thicknesses available in vinyl membrane sheeting. The most common are 20 gauge and 30 gauge. Both yield similar results, but 30 gauge (or 30 —mil“) lasts considerably longer.

Things to Remember:

1. Vinyl cement is extremely flammable. It can and will destroy your brain if you use it in a poorly ventilated area. 2. Vinyl cement is very much like contact cement…once you touch the sides together, there is little hope for removal. 3. You need a heavy duty seam roller for this part. 4. Any area to be cemented should be cleaned first with acetone or xylene. Synthetic steel wool or 'Scotch Brite' pads are a great help.

Small or Narrow Vacuum Bags For this example, we are making a bag that is a 18" x 54" rectangle. Cut a piece of vinyl that is 36“ in length. Standard width of almost all vinyl sheeting is 54“.

Bring the two 54“ sides together. Remember…the bag should be about 18“ by 54“ …not 36“ X 27“. The first two ends should come together so that the result forms a large tube. You do not want the shape to resemble a drop of water (see pictures).

This is the correct bonding pattern. Do not bond the ends like this.

16 Use acetone or xylene to clean the surfaces where they overlap (about 2 inches will do). While the xylene is drying, mentally prepare yourself for the next steps. Try to envision the area where the two ends will overlap. Two inches of overlap will make a nice joint.

You want to apply more cement at the inside and outside edge where the overlap stops. You may find it easier to roll the bag inside-out to get to the inside seam flap. Let this dry for an hour or so.

Next, you need to seal one edge of the two that remain in order to make a bag. Lay the bag down so the first seam that you made (already cemented in place) is centered at the bottom of the bag. Clean the surfaces of the mating edges (at one end of the bag) with acetone or xylene, and proceed with cementing as you did for the first seam. Be sure to use the seam tool to firmly press the corners tight. At the bag end, you won't be able to make the "tube" shape so it will more closely resemble the tear drop shape this time. If you have an extra piece of vinyl, it would be well-suited to reinforce the end seam. Cut a piece 3" wide that is as long as the bag is wide. Clean the strip with xylene, and press it evenly over the end seam so that equal amounts of vinyl are over each side of the bag.

The results of the cementing may not make a 100% air tight seal. Don‘t worry about that yet. The secret will be revealed soon.

Large or Square Vacuum Press Bags In this example, we build a bag that is about 4' x4' square.

First, get a 9' (or 108") length of 54" wide vinyl and fold it in half so you have a doubled over piece that is 54" x 54". On one side of the vinyl, use a pen to mark a straight line 4" from the edge from the folded end to the opposite end.

Using sharp scissors, cut the top and bottom (remember, it is folded over) piece of vinyl along the line. When you are finished, you should be left with one piece of vinyl that is 4" x 108" and another piece that is 50" x 108".

Computer animations of the techniques described on this page are available at this URL: http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/makingbags2.htm

The narrow piece of vinyl should be cut in half so it will then be 2 pieces that are 4" x 54". These two pieces are used to bond the side edges together. Set the narrow pieces aside for now. We will get to them shortly.

Keep the large piece of vinyl folded evenly in half (50" x 54"). Use a straight-edge and pen to mark a line from one side to the other that is 2" in front of the mid point (the crease) of the vinyl. Do this on both the top and bottom side on the vinyl. These are your boundary marks for the vinyl cement at the crease. Open the vinyl up and clean the area between the two pen lines with acetone or xylene. Allow this dry for a few minutes.

For large bags such as this, you will need an assistant for 10 minutes. Apply vinyl cement to the area between the pen lines (on the inside of the crease). Allow the cement to set up for 2 minutes then fold the bag neatly in half again. It is important that the bag is folded in half evenly (side to side and end to end). It's probably best to do a practice run of the folding step before you apply the cement. If you find the vinyl difficult to manipulate when folding, you can toss a bit of baby powder into the inside of the fold. The vinyl will slide around a bit easier this way.

17 After the vinyl has been folded over, use a seam tool to press the vinyl cemented area flat. You may need to continue pressing this area for several minutes until the cement fully bonds. The critical areas are at the corners. This area must lay flat and be sealed tightly. You can use clamps to hold the corners tight until the cement cures.

On the left and right side of the vinyl bag, use acetone or xylene to clean the outer 2" edges of the bag. Also, clean one entire side of each of the two strips that you cut from the original piece of vinyl. Allow this to dry for a few minutes.

Half of the narrow strip is going to be on the top side (at the edge) of the main vinyl piece and the other half will be on the bottom. So apply vinyl cement to half of one narrow vinyl strip and also to the top of the vinyl bag 2" from the edge (figure A). Allow the cement to set up then carefully place the strip on the edge of the main vinyl. Use a seam roller to bond the vinyl. Roll in a diagonal direction across the seam.

Perform the above step for the other side of the bag. Then flip the whole assembly over and apply more cement to the narrow piece Yellow areas show where vinyl cement is applied. and to the main piece 2 inches from the edge. Fold the narrow strip over and onto the top of the bag (figure B). Press these final edges tight with the seam roller.

HH-66 Heavy Duty Seam Tool Vinyl Cement 30 Gauge Industrial Vinyl

18 Connect the Bag to the System Method #1 (of 2) Cut two pieces of vinyl sheeting about 4“x4“. Using the HH-66, cement one of these vinyl pieces inside the bag (at the center) and one on the outside of the bag (directly over the bottom 4x4 piece). Use acetone or xylene to clean the vinyl first. Place a piece of scrap wood under the inside 4x4 to prevent cementing it to the inside-bottom of the bag. Press the assembly down with the seam tool. This process adds strength to the stem area where a bag split can commonly occur.

Puncture a 3/8“ hole in the center of this reinforced area. I used a 3/8" spade bit backed up by a piece of scrap wood.

Get the Valve Stem Ready Remove the valve assembly inside the stem by unscrewing it using two small flat head screwdrivers or small needle-nose pliers. Discard the valve assembly. Now use a Dremel tool or hack to cut an —X“ on the bottom of the valve stem about 1/16“ deep. This allows air to escape even if the bottom of the stem is pressed against the flat area on the top of the platen.

You need to remove the extrusions on the black washers so the only rubber left is a flat washer, similar to the ones in the picture. Place one of these washers on the stem. Insert the valve stem up through the bag and out the top. Press the other soft rubber washer onto the stem, and place the metal washer and nut on top. Tighten this firmly.

To connect the vinyl tube from the vacuum press to the stem, simply slip it down onto the stem as far as it will go. Fasten a hose clamp around the stem. Tighten this securely.

19

Method #2

To make things easier and even more durable, I offer an "updated" valve stem assembly at the web store. This 5 piece kit is the best way to connect vacuum bags to the vacuum hose. Each stem has 8 air channels through the center intake that direct airflow quickly and evenly from the vacuum bag. The kit includes 2 extra thick vinyl disks precut with a 3/8" center hole. These disks are placed on each side of the bag to seal the Updated Valve Stem valve. The stem is then attached with the top perimeter sealing washer and locked in place with the stem nut. With this unit, you don't need the 4" x 4" vinyl pieces as described above.

For these units, you don't have to cement the vinyl disks to the bag as long as the hole in the bag is no larger than 3/8" diameter. But...for the ultimate reinforcement, if you cement these disks to the bag, this connection should last nearly forever.

If you opt to use either of the valve stem connectors (shown to the right), you will not need to remove the valve from inside the stem. By Valve Stem Connector leaving the valve inside the stem you can move the vacuum source for Heavy Duty Tubing (albeit temporarily) to another vacuum bag if needed. It also allows you to stow away the vacuum press during the final minutes of pressing while maintaining the last bit of residual vacuum pressure. These are really just goofy, minuscule reasons. Nothing major or world shattering… just a small convenience.

20 Make the Bag Clamp The bag clamp is used to close the final end of the bag after you have inserted the veneer, substrate, and platens for gluing. Find a board that is 5" wide, ½" thick, and 30“ long (or 3" longer than your bag's width) and rip it in half. Now hold the two pieces together (as if you were going to glue the ripped edge back together). See if there is a slight bow. Sometimes wood will do this and if it does, this time it will be an advantage. If not, don't worry.

If there is a bow, flip the boards around until you are looking at a gap in the middle when they are held together and draw an arrow on each board facing away from the side that has the gap.

Set up your (preferably router table) with a ²“ core box bit and raise the bit 1/4“ high. Run both boards across this setup with the arrows pointing down (if you are using the router table). Glue a ²“ dowel into one of the boards as shown above. The two boards now mate together nicely. Allow the dowel to dry before continuing.

Update:

Assemble the mated boards as shown in the picture to the right. On the left and right side of the two boards, drill a 3/8" diameter hole (about 1" in from the edges) from the top and into the bottom board.

Take the two boards apart and enlarge one hole on opposite board ends with a 7/16" bit.

Glue a 3/8" diameter dowel in the 3/8" holes allowing it to protrude by an inch or two at the top.

21

The clamping will now slide-lock together and make it easier to assemble the bag clamps on the vacuum bag.

Glue a 3/8" diameter dowel in the 3/8" holes allowing it to protrude by an inch or two at the top.

The clamping jig will now slide-lock together and make it easier to assemble the bag clamps on the vacuum bag.

This is your vacuum bag clamp. When in use, place the clamps around the opening of the bag and put a regular wood clamp along the length every 6 to 8 inches and snug them up. I prefer to the place the first clamp at one end and snug it up. Then I place another clamp at the opposite end. Just before tightening this clamp, I use my index finger to pull the vinyl bag away from the first clamp. This keeps the vinyl flat under the clamps.

22 Make the Platens/Cauls I have seen numerous ways of sandwiching the veneer to the substrate using cauls and platens. I truthfully do not know which is better, so I will limit this discussion to the method I use. This has never failed to bring anything less than optimal results for me.

Make 2 platens of equal size from ²“ - ½“ MDF. They should be only slightly larger in length and width than the substrate material. The 15“ X 26“ bag that you made uses a platen setup no larger than 11“ X 18“. So cut two pieces of this size.

When vacuum is applied, any glue that bleeds through the veneer bonds to the inside of the MDF platens and ruins your panel. There is short term and a long term solution. The short term is to put wax paper between the inside platen face and the substrate/veneer. The long term solution (the one I prefer) is to put a sheet of laminate on the inside face of the platens. Then wax the laminate with ordinary car wax. Be sure to buff out the wax so that none is pressed into the veneer. The wax can last though many glue-ups.

Glue a border (½“ thick and 1½“ wide) around the outside perimeter of one the platens as shown in the picture below. This bordered platen will keep the other platen in place while in the press.

Now, use a round over bit in your router to ease the edges of the platens. Otherwise, these sharp edges will puncture the vacuum bag while under pressure.

Next, set your blade to a height of 1/8“, to cut grooves from the front to the back and side to side on the outside of each platen. The spacing is not critical but a 2" layout works well. These grooves help channel the air to the stem, and are absolutely essential. Remember, these grooves are on the outside when you place them in the vacuum bag.

Two Tips: If you are using a very large veneering If you do not enjoy the fine aroma of setup, the "sandwich" of platens, substrate contact cement, use 3M brand spray and veneer can be reduced in weight by adhesive on the face of the MDF and on replacing the top platen with a sheet of ³“ the back on the laminate. This creates a with a laminate face. Cut the air bond that is good enough for the purpose channels (grooves) 1/16" deep. A little of making the platens. paste wax helps here too.

23

The completed platens

New Concept:

If you are veneering a substrate that is 2" (or more) smaller in length and/or width than the platen, the top platen will cave in around the edges of the substrate while under pressure. To remedy this, simply cut a few extra pieces of the substrate material and use them as spacers between the two platens. Be sure these spacers are the same thickness as the substrate being glued to the veneer.

24 The Secret...Finally Revealed As stated earlier, the bag is probably not 100% airtight. Set up your bag and attach it to the system. Place the platens in the bag. Clamp the bag shut, then turn on the press. When at least 18“ of Hg is achieved, use the HH-66 vinyl cement to —“ the edges of all previously sealed seams. Like magic, the cement is pulled into any leaks. You might even hear the seam bubbling, and then just stop within seconds as the cement fills the void. Turn the unit off and let the cement cure over night. A second application of cement may be necessary.

Don't Forget: The cement is extremely flammable and will destroy your brain if you don‘t use it in a well ventilated area. Protect the brain cells you intend to keep!

That‘s it! Your system is complete. The next sections contain miscellaneous information about the process and products of veneering. Hopefully, this will save you many weekends of trial and error with your veneers!

The Big Bad Wolf

Even this match of lesser grade Claro walnut has some striking opportunities.

25 Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repairs With ordinary use, your vacuum system will last through hundreds of pressings. The only area on the unit that requires periodic attention is where the valve stem is connected. If you suspect the vacuum is running longer, or more often than it should, check the valve stem area first. To find the leak, place the platens inside the bag then clamp it shut. Next, turn on the vacuum and allow it to achieve as much vacuum as possible. Use food coloring mixed in water with a small paint brush and "paint" the area around the stem and seams. Any holes in the bag will show up as the coloring is absorbed.

To patch the leak, cut a piece of vinyl about 1" square and attach it to the outside of the bag with vinyl cement. Don't forget to prepare the patch and the exterior of the bag. Using acetone or xylene, clean the surfaces where the patch will be placed. Very fine steel wool aids in the cleaning process, but you must be sure that no steel residue is left upon completion. Acetone and xylene release toxic fumes, so do this outside or in a well ventilated area. This cleaning removes the coating on the vinyl which prevents things from sticking to it.

Apply the patch then press it down using a J-roller or a seam tool. Then turn off the press to allow the patch to dry over night.

Don't Forget: The cement is extremely flammable and will destroy your brain if you don‘t use it in a well ventilated area. Protect all the brain cells you want to keep!! A good mask is a good idea.

One More Strange Veneer

Bog Burl Do you see the angel?

26 Conclusion Most types of cold press glues require only 1 hour in the press to fully bond the veneer. Unibond 800 glue requires up to 6 hours depending on the ambient temperature. Many professionals use a heating blanket thrown over the veneer press bag to speed the curing of the glue.

After removing a glued up veneer from the press, do not use it immediately. Wait at least 6 hours for the glue to fully cure. During this drying period, be sure to store the panel on a flat surface with ²“ under it. Space them 10 to 12 inches apart. Don‘t be tempted to just toss it on the . The glue on the top surface will continue to dry while the underside, being starved for air, will remain uncured. This results in a warped panel. They must be cured evenly. Even thick substrates can warp if stored incorrectly. For thinner substrates, it is a good idea to place dowels and then another board on top of the veneered panel as well to even-out the curing process.

Why use a balance veneer? Veneer expands when the moisture of the glue reaches the bulk of the wood cells. When the panel is removed from the vacuum press, the glue is "set", but is not "cured". The curing process takes several hours in dry and open air. During this time, the wood cells will start to shrink as the moisture from the glue evaporates. As these cells shrink, the board will cup or warp.

The balance veneer evens out the pressure and keeps the board straight. Most substrates (solid wood, plywood, MDF, etc) will warp if a balance veneer is not used and allowed to dry at the same speed as the face veneer. The only exception to this is very thick or very long substrates that can be forced to lay flat on your project with screws, clamps, or glue.

Just about any veneer can work as a balance veneer. The key is to try to use veneers of similar thickness and grain orientation. The latter of the two is less important.

Tip: For drying a smaller panel, use a few spring clamps to suspend the veneered panel from a ²" dowel, as shown.

Substrates less than ²" will warp slightly if they are not framed in a wood border within a few days of pressing. So, if you have no use for a veneered panel, don't make one. Generally speaking, thinner substrates warp faster and more perceptibly.

Feel free to email me any questions or suggestions regarding this article. I've spent countless evenings working on this project and even more time creating this article for my woodworking friends. I look forward to your comments and suggestions.

You will also find various bits of information at the FAQ on the JoeWoodworker website. The URL is http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/faq.htm

27 Glues and Adhesives There are numerous types of glues that could be used for veneer work. I thought all glue was the same at first. After a few months of veneering, I noticed different veneer glues popping up every where I looked. Let's start with the obvious option first.

Yellow glue (PVA) is probably the first glue that comes to mind when you say —glue“ to a woodworker. I have never found yellow glue to be suitable for any veneering project. This type of glue never fully hardens, and thus allows the veneer to "creep" or move during seasonal changes in humidity. Yellow glue also has a tendency to bleed through and discolor the veneer.

Since yellow glue softens with moderate heat, it is also very difficult to Yellow Glue sand.

Epoxy is something that you may wish to avoid as well. It is expensive and, because of its thick consistency, is not easily absorbed by the substrate material (especially MDF). It does have its place in veneer work though. It is a highly effective grain filler for veneer that you are not going to stain the finished panel. Use a plastic spreader and use just a little more hardener than you normally would. Epoxy

Polyurethane glue bonds to anything. It is suitable for use when the veneer has to be pressed to a surface other than wood, such as plastic. I would suggest using this glue only on small panels because it is difficult to spread, and it bleeds-through more than most adhesives due to the foaming action. It's also quite expensive.

Contact cement has little use in high quality veneering. It will hold briefly, but within a short time frame, it can blister and bubble. Even extremely flat veneers may eventually bubble up. The only veneer that contact cement will work with is that of the paper-backed variety. In the eyes of some, this type of veneering is an inferior method and will yield questionable results. And if you absolutely must use paper backed veneer Contact Cement and contact cement, do not use lacquer as your finish!

Hide glue is the most traditional veneering adhesive. Its use dates back over 4,000 years ago to Egyptians who used it on furniture for the pharaohs. The method is called hammer veneering which derives its name from the use of a tool called a veneer hammer. The hammer is used press the veneer sheets onto the substrate. The method also requires a means of heating the glue typically in a "double boiler." Hide glue is very durable Veneer Hammer and it can be re-heated and reactivated if bubbling occurs. Hide glue can not be used in the vacuum veneer press.

28 The following adhesives are designed for vacuum press veneering.

Cold press glues are the last two major types of veneer glue and are similar in use and durability. One is a premixed glue, and the other is a powder in which the user must add water. The differences between these glues and yellow PVA glue are what make these glues suitable for veneering. The cold press glue is much thicker than yellow glue which means less bleed-through. Also, cold press glues are tinted to a wood tone which inconspicuously fills voids in the veneer much better than PVA glue. Finally, cold press glues dry to a hard film that does not allow as much —creep“ or movement of the veneers on the substrate. The choice between powdered cold press and premixed cold press glues is almost entirely up to the user. The difference between each of these glues is that most powdered glues are more heat/water resistant, and have a longer shelf life then the premixed variety.

Cold Press Veneer Glue Unibond 800 is a two part urea resin glue that offers excellent adhesion and stability. The real benefit is that you are not introducing water to the veneer and substrate which can cause seams to separate, thin substrates to warp, and some veneers to develop moldy areas. Cleanup can be difficult and a gallon of this adhesive is a bit expensive, but for that ultra special veneer, this might be your best option. This glue is also good for adhering oily veneers such as . (Be sure to wipe the surface with naptha first.) Unibond kept in a refrigerator will last almost two years. Unibond 800 Unibond requires up to 6 hours in the vacuum press for a decent bond. Veneer Glue

29 Applying Adhesives To apply the glue, use a notched plastic spreader. You can also use a 3" to 4" paint roller with a short nap cover. This works well for large panels, but the cleanup is more difficult than using a plastic spreader.

Four Important Tips: 8" Glue Spreader 1. Too much glue is usually not a problem. Too little glue is ALWAYS a problem. The key is to apply the glue evenly. This can be accomplished with a glue roller.

2. Be sure to veneer both sides of a panel at the same time. This is an absolute must! In most cases, a veneer of similar density and thickness will suffice. Be sure to arrange the underside veneer (commonly called a balance veneer) so the grain direction is going 4" Glue Spreader the same way as the face veneer.

3. Always apply glue to the substrate material, not to the veneer.

4. After removing a glued up veneer from the press, do not use it immediately. Wait at least 6 hours for the glue to fully cure. During this drying period, be sure to store the panel on a flat surface with ²“ dowels under it. Space them 10 to 12 inches apart. Don‘t be tempted to just toss it on the workbench. The glue on the top Glue Roller surface will continue to dry while the underside, being starved for air, will remain uncured. This will result in a warped panel. Even the thickest substrate material will warp if stored incorrectly. For thinner substrates, it is a good idea to place additional dowels and another board on top of the veneered panel.

30 Veneer Glue Comparison: Glue Pro's Con's Comments Cold Press Veneer - Fast drying (1 hour) - Will not withstand extended periods I prefer this glue over the others Glue - Easy to work with of moisture or heat and have yet to have any - No mixing required problems with it for everyday - Inexpensive veneering tasks. - Tinted to a wood tone

PPR Urea Resin - Withstands heat/moisture - Requires mixing This veneer can be thermoset Glue - Inexpensive - Short pot life once mixed with the use of a heating - Excellent for curved work - Requires up to 6 hours of pressing blanket over the vacuum bag - Tinted to a wood tone which makes the bond even stronger.

Unibond 800 - Bonds to nearly everything - Requires mixing Superb adhesive that is used in - Excellent for curved work - Requires up to 6 hours of pressing the finest woodworking shops in - Available in 3 tones the U.S.

Special Purpose - Bonds to nonporous surfaces - Requires very thin coat Amazing stuff. Perfect for the Veneer Glue - Fast drying - Glue never hardens so veneer may goofy veneer project that you (Melamine Glue) - Easy to work with creep never thought was possible. - Very strong adhesive Bonds to plastic and aluminum.

Glue Terms:

• Clamp Time - The amount of time the veneered panel will need to be pressed. • Shelf Life - The length of time that a product can sit unused and unopened. • Open Time - The amount of time between when you apply the glue and when the material is placed in the press. • Cure Time - The amount of time that it takes for the glue to fully harden (usually out side of the press). • Pot Life - The length of time in which a glue can be used after it is mixed (PPR's are mixed with water. Unibond is mixed with its companion hardener).

Question: I just completed a walnut burl panel with some cold press veneer glue and was frustrated to find what is best described as depressions in the surface of the panel when I removed it from the press. There were several of these depressions, each about the width of a pencil lead and ranging in length from a quarter of an inch to about two inches long. They are not wrinkles or tears, but rather a concave flaw in the surface. They resemble worm tracks running across the surface of the panel. What could be causing this?

Answer: You may be applying too much glue. I highly recommend using a glue roller to even out the glue. The roller will spread the adhesive thin and evenly (the most critical aspects of applying it). Otherwise, try using the glue spreader held at 45 degrees and quickly wipe away any excess glue with it. It should leave behind "stripes" of glue that flatten out in a few seconds.

Also, be sure to remove the panel from the press after 1 hour. Remember, with cold press veneer glue, there is little-to-no curing of the glue inside the bag. Cold press glues "set" inside the vacuum bag but the actual curing occurs outside of it.

31 Substrate Material The following materials can be used as substrate material for veneering:

• MDF (any thickness) • Plywood (fill all voids first and orient the grain to lay perpendicular to the face of the plywood) • Particle board (5/8" or ½“ thickness)

MDF is used frequently under even the finest veneered furniture pieces. Its uniformity and stability make it an excellent substrate for veneer work. Particle board is also a good veneering substrate but not as fine as MDF. Plywood has the advantage of being lighter, more sag resistant, and it grips screws and fasteners better.

Do not use Masonite as a substrate. The glues used to make it are too thin to maintain a bond between the top surface of the substrate and the veneer.

When using MDF or flake board as a substrate, lightly sand the surface with 120 grit to provide a better grip for the glue.

32 Veneer Storage

Very fragile veneers can be stored in a closed trash bag (or other moisture barrier) and stored laying flat. I keep some of my best veneers like this under my bed, but don‘t tell anyone!J

Other veneers can be pressed between two pieces of MDF or flake board, and leaned against the wall. If you store your veneers in the basement, be sure to put a block of wood underneath just in case your basement ever gets a small flood.

Veneers stored in damp environments are subject to patches of mold. Use a dehumidifier in the area where the veneers are kept to prevent this from occurring. And should a patch of mold form, go to your local hardware store and purchase some oxalic acid (wood bleach). Follow the directions on the container. It will probably cause darker veneers like walnut to lighten up a bit, but the color does return.

STORAGE TIPS: For smaller veneers, it is safe to lay them on a shelf with a piece of plywood or MDF on top. A small amount of even weight over this will help keep flat veneers inline.

For medium sized veneers, I prefer to sandwich them between two oversized sheets of MDF or flake board. I then use screws or duct tape to hold the sandwich together.

Large veneers are best stored unrolled. I made a shelf above my garage door from a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. You also might also be able to convince your spouse to let you store them under the couch.

33 Flattening a Veneer

Veneers that have very slight —bubbling“ can be glued without flattening. The key is to lightly mist the top side of the veneer after it has been placed on the freshly glued substrate, just before it is placed in the press. Be sure to mist the balance veneer too (even if it is not bubbly).

Super 20 Veneer Softener

Super 20 is, by far, more effective and user friendly than homemade veneer softener. By temporarily plasticizing wood cells, veneers treated with Super 20 become easier to flatten and unbelievably flexible. Super 20 does not affect the stain absorbing properties of the veneer. This incredible veneer softener is available at VeneerSupplies.com in several sizes.

Application instructions for either softener:

1. Use full strength. 2. Apply by dipping, spraying, or brushing (spraying is preferred). 3. Allow veneers to stand until the surface is free of shiny, wet areas. 4. Place absorbent paper between each veneer and put them between two flat boards (plywood, MDF, etc) and apply weight to the top. Allow to sit overnight. 5. Then replace absorbent sheets every 3-6 hours until veneer is completely dry.

Additional Information The number of paper changes depends on the thickness of the veneer and ambient temperature. Be aware that if you do not dry the veneer thoroughly, you increase the chance of warping and cracking the finished surface.

Interesting Super 20 Flattening Trick based on an idea by Gene Young After applying the Super 20 veneer softener and letting it sit between two weighted boards overnight, use a clothes iron set on medium to remove left-over ripples and evaporate any remaining veneer softener. Keep the iron moving continuously around on the veneer. When the veneer appears to be dry you can prep it for the veneer press. The effects of the softener are severely shortened with this trick so be sure to use the veneer as soon as possible. Otherwise it may ripple again.

34 Veneer Seams Part 1: Edge Trimming

You can use any number of methods to prepare the veneers for taping. The method you choose may depend upon factors such as the thickness/quality of the veneer and the size of the seam. For some joints, you can clamp the veneer(s) between two boards and use one of the following to trim the edges:

• Router with a flush trimming bit • Low angle • Stationary

However, for most seams the best method incorporates the use of a veneer saw. These saws are made for right handed users. Though I am a "lefty," I found little difficulty in using my right hand for the work. You may want to verify that you have the right grind on the saw to make an accurate seam.

To cut a veneer with a veneer saw, place a straight edged board (about ½" thick) along the projected seam line, and lightly saw into the veneer (along the entire length of the seam) until the cut is complete.

Be sure that the straight edge board is on top of the "keeper" side of the veneer. In other words, you are sawing off the waste side. It is imperative that the straight-edge be absolutely true. Place adequate pressure downward on the straight-edge while sawing the veneer. You should also make certain to hold the saw 90° to the veneer face by keeping it firmly pressed against the straight-edge. It should take several passes of the saw to fully cut through.

The straight edge I am using in this example is piece of walnut that has been passed across my jointer. It has a nice, clean edge. I placed some 100 grit self adhesive sandpaper on the bottom side of the board to help keep the veneers from shifting while being cut.

35 Larger Seams If you are not sure about your straight-edge or the veneer pieces are larger in size, you can place the two veneers with one slightly overlapping the other (both facing up) and saw a straight line down the middle. Your straight-edge will not have to be perfect because you will be sawing reciprocal parts at the same time. Just saw lightly so the keeper piece on the opposite side of the straight-edge doesn't tear up.

I use a very high quality veneer saw made by Two Cherries in Germany. These saws are available (pre-sharpened) at VeneerSupplies.com and have received many excellent customer reviews.

What‘s Next? Next, you‘ll learn to use veneer tape to join two or more veneers together before placing them into the vacuum press. Here are some of the tool and supplies you‘ll find at VeneerSupplies.com.

3 Hole No Hole Extra Wide Tape Tape Tape

Seam Tool German Veneer Saw Blue Tape

36 Veneer Seams Part 2: Seam Taping

Items You'll Need When Taping Veneer Edges Together

Seam Taping Veneer tape is required to keep the veneer edges tight while inside the press. The beauty of veneer tape is that as it dries, it shrinks. This shrinking action helps to hold the seam together while in the press. There are a variety of veneer tapes available. Tapes come in various weights and widths. It also comes in a solid and a perforated variety. The solid tape is suitable for thick and unruly veneers that require a bit more strength to maintain a tight joint. The easiest veneer tapes to use are those which are perforated with holes. Three hole tape allows the user to see the seam under the tape which allows for adjusting/tightening of the seam before the tape dries.

Additionally, this type of tape is thinner and will not create a thick Figure 1 buildup if multiple pieces of tape are used for making complex joints. Mark the back side of the veneers And three hole tape can be used on the glue side (as opposed to the face side) of the veneer if necessary.

Ok... let's get taping! Mark the back side of the veneer as shown in figure 1. There are two markings on each sheet. The first is the blue tape indicating that this is the back of the veneer. The second marking is light chalk indicating the two edges that are to be taped together. Figure 2 Blue tape across the seam The blue tape, commonly called clean release tape, is available at your local hardware store in the paint aisle. It's expensive but will last a long time. You can find it cheaper at VeneerSupplies.com

Carefully pull the two veneers together tightly and place small pieces of blue tape across the seam as shown in figure 2. If the veneer is being stubborn and does not lay flat across the whole length of the seam, place a strip of blue tape longitudinally on seam as shown in figure 3. Figure 3 Blue tape along the seam

37 Next, tear off a few dozen small "cross strips" of veneer tape. These will be placed perpendicular to the veneer joint about 3-4" apart on the face side of the veneer. To activate veneer tape, simply slide a piece of it along a very wet sponge or wad of paper towels (figure 4). Remember... the adhesive is on the shiny side of the tape.

Roll the veneer tape smooth with a wallpaper seaming tool or "J" Figure 4 roller (figure 5). Preparing the veneer tape

Then place a piece of veneer tape along the entire length of the joint. Lay a piece of dry paper towel on the seam line and firmly smooth out this last piece of veneer tape with the seaming tool (figure 6). The paper towel will absorb any "loose" water in the veneer tape. By doing this, you'll prevent the veneer from absorbing the water which might cause it to get swollen and ripple up.

Figure 5 Let the assembled veneers sit for 5 minutes so the brown veneer tape Rollin', Rollin', Rollin'... can "set up". Then carefully flip the veneers over and remove the Don't let the veneer get swollen! Raw hide!! blue tape.

Since brown veneer tape shrinks as it dries, it will pull the joint tight when all of the water has evaporated. I like to place a scrap board along the length of the seam and place a weight on top of that. This prevents the veneer edges from stacking on top of each other as the tape pulls the seam together. I recommend leaving the seam under the weight for an hour before you put it in the press. Figure 6 Final rolling Before the veneer is placed in the press, check the seam for any areas that do not fit together correctly. If the veneer has rippled up a bit, the seam may look bad. You can check to see if the veneers have truly separated by pressing down the veneer where it is rippled. Usually, you can press the veneer flat with your fingers and see the seam go back together. If it does, you are in luck because the platens in the veneer press will force the veneer flat and once again, the seam will come together. Figure 7 A perfect seam Removing the Tape You will need to remove the veneer tape after the veneered panel has been adhered to a substrate in the vacuum press. There are two options. Since the tape is thin, it can be sanded or lightly scraped off. Wait until the panel is completely dry to avoid the risk of smearing the glue from the veneer tape onto and into the veneer.

The better method for removing veneer tape is to re-moisten it carefully with a sponge, let it soak in for about 45 seconds and then Figure 8 Ready for the vacuum press peel it off of the panel. If any of the adhesive from the veneer tape remains the veneer, let it dry and carefully sand it off.

Tape Tip When you are finished with the veneer tape, you can prevent it from unrolling from the spool by lightly dampening the loose end and sticking it back onto the roll.

38 HH-66 Vinyl Cement MSDS MSDS Last updated: 09/30/1998

Now Available at www.VeneerSupplies.com

PART NUMBER: 7506 & 7507 *** SECTION I / PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION *** PRODUCT NAME: H-66 VINYL CEMENT MANUFACTURER'S NAME: R-H PRODUCTS CO., INC NFPA RATING: HMIS RATING: MANUFACTURER'S ADDRESS: 308 OLD HIGH STREET HEALTH: 2 HEALTH: 1 P.O. BOX 2301 FLAMMABILITY: 3 FLAMMABILITY: 3 CITY/STATE/ZIP: ACTON, MA 01720 REACTIVITY: 0 REACTIVITY: 0 INFORMATION TELEPHONE: (800) 535-5053 DATE PREPARED: 9/30/98

*** SECTION II / HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS IDENTITY *** *** SECTION III / PHYSICAL/CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS *** CASE# OSHA PEL ACGIH TLV OTHER LIMITS WEIGHT% RECOMMENDED BOILING POINT: ACETONE - 132 degrees F. SPECIFIC GRAVITY(H2O=1): .87 - .88 VAPOR PRESSURE (mm Hg.)@ 68 degrees F.: 180mm METHYL ETHYL KETONE 78-93-3 200ppm 200ppm 46% MELTING POINT: NOT DETERMINED ACETONE 67-64-1 750ppm 750ppm 21.5% VAPOR DENSITY(AIR=1): HEAVIER EVAPORATION TOLUENE 108-88-3 100ppm 100ppm 50ppm SKIN 19% RATE(BUTYL ACETATE=1): SLOWER TOLUENE AND METHYL ETHYL KETONE ARE SUBJECT TO THE SOLUBILITY IN WATER: INSOLUBLE APPEARANCE AND REPORTING REQUIREMENTS OF SECTION 313 OF SARA ODOR: CLEAR,MINTY ODOR,SHARP TITLE III.

OSHA HAZARD;- FLAMMABLE AND IRRITANT V.O.C.'S TOTAL: 6.4 LBS/GAL DOT INFORMATION: ADHESIVES, 3, UN1133, PGII REGULATED V.O.C.'s: 4.7 LBS/GAL ERG# 127 with the delisting of ACETONE 6/95 *** SECTION IV / FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD DATA *** *** SECTION V / REACTIVITY DATA ***

FLASH POINT: 6 degrees F ASTM D-56 FLAMMABLE LIMITS: STABILITY: STABLE CONDITIONS TO AVOID: N/A LEL: 1% UEL: 12% EXTINGUISHING MEDIA: FOAM, DRY MATERIALS TO AVOID: STRONG OXIDIZING AGENTS CHEMICAL, CO2 SPECIAL FIRE FIGHTING PROCEDURES: HAZARDOUS DECOMPOSITION OR BYPRODUCTS: CO2 AND FIRE FIGHTERS SHOULD BE EQUIPPED WITH SELFC C0 WHEN SUBJECTED TO FLAMES OR EXCESSIVE HEAT. ONTAINED BREATHING APPARATUS WHEN FIGHTING FIRES HAZARDOUS POLYMERIZATION: WILL NOT OCCUR. INVOLVING THIS MATERIAL. UNUSUAL FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARDS: EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. OVERHEATED. CLOSED CONTAINER NEAR TO FIRE COULD EXPLODE DUE TO PRESSURE BUILD UP.

*** SECTION VI / HEALTH HAZARD DATA ***

ROUTES OF ENTRY: INHALATION : YES SKIN: YES INGESTION: YES HEALTH HAZARDS ACUTE AND CHRONIC: EYES-LIQUID MILDLY IRRITATING. OVEREXPOSURE MAY ALSO CAUSE IRRITATION. SKIN-PROLONGED CONTACT CAN CAUSE DEFATTING AND POSSIBLE DERMATITIS. BREATHING- OVEREXPOSURE MAY CAUSE IRRITATION TO RESPIRATORY SYSTEM. EXTREME OVEREXPOSURE TO VAPORS COULD RESULT IN CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM, LIVER AND KIDNEY DAMAGE. INGESTION- MAY CAUSE GASTROINTESTINAL IRRITATION. CARCINOGENITY: NONE NTP: NO IARC MONOGRAPHS: N/A OSHA REGULATED: N/A SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF EXPOSURE: EYES-REDNESS, TEARING AND SWELLING. SKIN-DRYNESS OF SKIN INCLUDING CRACKING. BREATHING- OVEREXPOSURE INCLUDES DIZZINESS,HEADACHE,NAUSEA AND LIGHT HEADEDNESS. SWALLOWING: NAUSEA ,VOMITING AND DIARRHEA. ASPIRATION INTO THE LUNGS AS A RESULT OF VOMITING MAY CAUSE

39 LUNG DAMAGE. EMERGENCY FIRST AID PROCEDURES: EYES-FLUSH IMMEDIATELY W/ WATER. CALL A PHYSICIAN. SKIN- WASH AREA WITH SOAP AND WATER. BREATHING-MOVE AFFECTED PERSON TO FRESH AIR AT ONCE. RESTORE BREATHING. CALL A PHYSICIAN IF DIFFICULTIES PERSIST. IF SWALLOWED- DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING. CALL A PHYSICIAN, GIVE WATER TO VICTIM, IF VOMITING OCCURS, PREVENT ASPIRATION INTO LUNGS. MEDICAL CONDITIONS GENERALLY AGGRAVATED TO PROLONGED EXPOSURE: SKIN-PROLONGED CONTACT WILL DEFAT SKIN AND CAUSE DERMATITIS. BREATHING- PROLONGED EXPOSURE OF TOLUENE VAPORS MAY CAUSE NERVOUS SYSTEM DAMAGE. SWALLOWING- MAY CAUSE NAUSEA, VOMITING AND DIARRHEA. ASPIRATION INTO LUNGS AS A RESULT OF VOMITING MAY CAUSE LUNG DAMAGE.

*** SECTION VII / PRECAUTIONS FOR SAFE HANDLING AND USE ***

STEPS TO BE TAKEN IN CASE MATERIAL IS RELEASED OR SPILLED: EXTINGUISH ALL SOURCES OF IGNITION IN AREA. COLLECT SPILLED MATERIAL AND PLACE IN A CLOSED CONTAINER FOR DISPOSAL OR SALVAGE. WASTE DISPOSAL METHOD: DISPOSE OF IN ACCORDANCE WITH LOCAL AND CURRENT U.S. E.P.A. REGULATIONS U.S. E.P.A HAZARDOUS WASTE NUMBER: D035(IGNITABLE) PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN IN HANDLING AND STORAGE: KEEP AWAY FROM HEAT, OPEN FLAMES AND SPARKS. USE AND STORE WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION TO PREVENT VAPOR BUILD-UP. VAPORS RELEASED BY PRODUCT CAN EASILY IGNITE. OTHER PRECAUTIONS: AVOID CONTACT WITH SKIN AND EYES. AVOID PROLONGED BREATHING OF VAPORS. KEEP CONTAINER CLOSED WHEN NOT IN USE. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

*** SECTION VIII / CONTROL MEASURES ***

PROTECTIVE GLOVES: IMPERVIOUS GLOVES; FOR SOLVENT. EYE PROTECTION: CHEMICAL GOGGLES OR SAFETY GLASSES. OTHER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT: WORK APRON TO AVOID CONTACT WITH PERSONAL CLOTHING AND SKIN. WORK/HYGIENIC PRACTICES: KEEP AREA CLEAN. WASH HANDS THOROUGHLY AFTER WORKING WITH PRODUCT.

------The information contained in this MSDS was obtained from current and reliable sources; however, the data is provided without any warranty, expressed or implied, regarding its correctness or accuracy. Since the conditions or handling, storage and disposal of this product are beyond the control of JWW Services Inc., JWW Services will not be responsible for loss, injury, or expense arising out of the products improper use. No warranty, expressed or inferred, regarding the product described in this MSDS shall be created or inferred by any statement in this MSDS. Various government agencies may have specific regulations regarding the transportation, handling, storage, use, or disposal of this product which may not be covered by this MSDS. The user is responsible for full compliance.

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