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FEATURES DEPARTMENTS 30 40 BRAND PROFILE: MADE IN 02 PUB PAGE HARD SELTZER’S News and Happenings in 10 DISCUS Awarded $511,386 and Around Maryland's ARGENTINA’S NEW HOT SPOT to Promote American Spirits Breweries, Distilleries and HIGHER GROUND High Noon Stakes its Claim Exports as a Better Bubbly Wineries Newly defined subregions in the high-elevation Uco Valley 04 are producing some NEW PRODUCTS & 32 BAR TALK of the country’s most PROMOTIONS Botanical Inspiration exciting

08 18 BRAND PROFILE: 34 ’S LION & DOVE WINES TOWN CENTER CRAFT BOOM Just in Time for Passover MARKET'S JIMMY No other whiskey category SPIROPOULOS: has exploded quite like Irish Fighting to Protect the has this century 16 Independent Store Owner BRAND PROFILE: 26 BAREFOOT JUMPS INTO HARD SELTZER 36 BALANCING THE MARKET SHOTS BACK BAR First -based Seltzer ON THE COVER: Promotions, Happenings Making difficult inventory to Go Nationwide Photo courtesy of & News From the Local Domaine Bousquet decisions in an era of rapid- Markets fire releases

VOLUME82NUMBER03 March 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 1 PUB Maryland l Washington, DC PAGE

Published Monthly by The Beverage Journal, Inc. (USPS# PE 783300)

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DISCUS AWARDED $511,386 and keep American spirits top of mind in BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. President / Publisher Stephen Patten TO PROMOTE AMERICAN these foreign markets.” [email protected] SPIRITS EXPORTS 410.796.5455 Through the MAP program, DISCUS seeks to facilitate the increase of small Board of Directors Lee W. Murray The Distilled Spirits Council of the Thomas W. Murray United States (DISCUS) recently an- U.S. distiller exports by educating the hospitality industry, adult consumers and Information Technology Peter Williams nounced it was granted $511,386 through Director [email protected] its partnership with the U.S. Department media in key international markets on EDITORIAL of Agriculture’s Market Access Program the taste, heritage and style of American distilled spirits. Senior Editor Kristen Bieler (MAP) to promote American spirits [email protected] exports in 2020, an increase of nearly 15 DISCUS’ promotions focus on the Managing Editor W. R. Tish percent over 2019 funding levels. range of American spirits, but with a [email protected] “This continued increase in USDA particular focus on the unique qualities Contributing Editors Alia Akkam, Arielle Albert, of American Whiskeys, including Bour- Keven Danow, Edward Durgin funding is a clear recognition of the ef- David Lincoln Ross, fectiveness of DISCUS’ export promotion bon, Tennessee Whiskey, American Rye Ed McCarthy, Jack Robertiello Whiskey and American Single Malt, which program in boosting sales of American ART & DESIGN account for the vast majority of U.S. spirits spirits abroad,” said Christine LoCascio, Creative Director Larry Lee exports worldwide. [email protected] DISCUS chief of public policy. “USDA’s in- Senior Designer Jeff Tsui vestment in these programs is paying off. Earlier this year DISCUS was granted [email protected] In 2018 alone, DISCUS’ MAP activities re- $1,215,000 through the USDA's Agricul- TECHNOLOGY & WEB sulted in $1.05 million in new exports for tural Trade Program (ATP), which was set eCommerce Director Ian Griffith craft distillers across the United States.” up specifically to assist those agricultural [email protected] groups that are being adversely impacted eCommerce Managers Karli Del Rossi, Evan Berube Since 2006, DISCUS has conducted Online Web Programming Vali Balescu spirits promotions in cooperation with by retaliatory tariffs. USDA in 18 foreign markets. In 2019, DIS- Since retaliatory tariffs on U.S. spirits PRINT & PRODUCTION Print Services Manager Lee Stringham CUS conducted MAP trade promotions were implemented in the second half [email protected] in Australia, Germany, Mexico and South of 2018, exports to the European Union 410.519.7034 Africa. This collaboration has contributed (EU), Canada, Mexico, Turkey and China ADVERTISING & MARKETING to a huge increase in global U.S. spirits worth an estimated $732 million have MD & DC Advertising Sales Stephen Patten exports, rising from $873 million in 2006 faced retaliatory tariffs. [email protected] 410.796.5455 to $1.8 billion in 2018. Between January-October 2019, National Advertising Sales Jody Slone-Spitalnik Catoctin Creek Distilling Company American Whiskey exports to the EU are [email protected] General Manager Scott Harris, who has down nearly 28 percent compared to the 212.571.3232 participated in numerous DISCUS MAP same period in 2018. Similarly, global promotions, stated, “Craft distillers can American Whiskey exports are down benefit greatly by participating in these more than 18 percent through September international promotions. DISCUS’ MAP 2019 as compared to the same period in POSTMASTER: Send address changes to events were critical in helping me to 2018. THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. break into new markets and make valu- P.O. Box 159, Hampstead, MD 21074-0159 To date, DISCUS has used ATP able business connections.” The Maryland Beverage Journal, the Washington, DC Beverage Journal and the funds to implement media campaigns in Delaware Beverage Journal are registered trademarks of Beverage Journal, Inc. Harris added, “These export promo- Mexico, Canada and the EU, and conduct All rights reserved. Periodicals postage paid at , MD and additional tions have become even more impor- trade promotions in the United Kingdom. mailing offices. Subscription rates: MD edition; 1 year $45.00 plus tax, 2 years tant in light of the retaliatory tariffs on n $75.00 plus tax, 3 years $100.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery $85.00 plus STEPHEN PATTEN tax per year per edition, single copies $10.00 plus tax. DC edition; 1 year $36.00 American Whiskey. These events allow plus tax, 2 years $60.00 plus tax, 3 years $83.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery PUBLISHER U.S. distillers to showcase our products $85.00 plus tax per year per edition, single copies $5.00 plus tax. [email protected] The opinions expressed by guest columnists are their own and not necessarily those of The Beverage Journal, Inc. The Beverage Journal, Inc. is an affirmative action/equal opportunity corporation. Copyright 2020 the Beverage Journal, Inc. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. 2 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BeverageJournalInc.com C

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. GERARD BERTRAND . COCKSPUR VSOR RUM . MEZZACORONA ‘DINOTTE’ ‘CÔTE DES ROSES’ Cockspur Rum—founded in Barbados RED BLEND The custom bottles Gérard Betrand uses for in 1884—has unveiled a redesign for its New from leading Italian producer his “Côte des Roses” Rosé and rums, which are made with coral-filtered Mezzacorona, DiNotte is an estate-bottled proved so popular that he is adding Sauvignon water and aged beach-side amid ocean red blend made from grown on the Blanc and to the line. Each breezes.The new Cockspur look retains the hillsides of the Dolomite Mountains in Italy. Languedoc wine features a base molded to signature rooster graphic but now has white The aromatic richness of the Teroldego resemble a rose, and each expression will now block lettering for the brand and iteration. and Marzemino grapes combine with the be available in both 750ml and 375ml, plus The redesign rolls out initially with Cockspur elegance of . The grapes are rich, magnum for the Grenache--Cinsault flagship VSOR Rum (80 proof) and will berry-like and juicy, but also perfumed rosé. The rose-shaped base of the bottles is continue with the full line. with a mountain floral character. DiNotte echoed in color-coded neck logos. translates to “At Night.”

SRP: $16.99/750ml $9.99/375ml $32.99/1.5L Rosé SRP: $31.99 SRP: $10.99 gerard-bertrand.com/en cockspur.com mezzacorona.com

. JACK DANIEL’S TENNESSEE FIRE . RUMCHATA LIMÓN . FRE IN CANS A package update for Jack Daniel’s Tennessee RumChata has combined its well-known Fre, America’s leading alcohol-removed wine Fire has been rolling out for 2020. The new real dairy cream and Caribbean rum base brand, has introduced the first single-serving look is intended to be more premium, fit better with a touch of refreshing lemon to create alcohol-removed wines. Fre Sparkling Rosé with the family of brands, and improve visibility RumChata Limón. Sweet, smooth, and and Sparkling Brut cans will join the brand’s in bars and restaurants. Crafted with Jack creamy with a fresh lemon finish, RumChata existing portfolio that comprises 80 percent Daniel’s Old No. 7 Tennessee Whiskey and Limón can be enjoyed on the rocks, as a of the alcohol-removed wine segment with naturally infused with a proprietary cinnamon light and flavorful creamer in hot or cold eight 750ml varietals. The new o£ erings aim liqueur, Jack Fire launched globally in 2016 co£ ee, or blended with other flavored spirits. to give existing customers more flexibility and and has since become the #4 selling flavored The bright yellow version of the iconic attract alcohol-abstaining and sober-curious whiskey in the world. 70 proof. RumChata bottle comes complete with the consumers. familiar gold cap. 28 proof.

SRP: $24.99 SRP: $19.99 SRP: $11/four-pack 250ml cans jackdaniels.com rumchata.com frewines.com

4 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

NEW PRODUCTS

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. RIUNITE SANGRIA IN CANS . WHEEL HORSE RYE WHISKEY . LALUCA PROSECCO Riunite, one of America’s favorite Italian Latitude Beverage, the company behind LaLuca Prosecco DOC Treviso gets a fresh wine brands for over six decades, will be 90+ Cellars, has launched Wheel Horse Rye. new look, with the same authentic Prosecco. launching its first canned wine this spring. The whiskey was produced at O.Z. Tyler, the LaLuca is a proprietary label created by The booming canned wine sector has seen site of one of the state’s original permitted Opici Wines honoring the fifth generation a four-year compound annual growth rate distilleries. Wheel Horse is the first aged rye of the Opici family. The wine is crafted near of approximately 91%, according to Nielsen; to come out of O.Z. Tyler since its reopening the Valdobbiadene DOCG region, on the and 33% of millennials are consuming wine in 2016. Two to three years in new, charred sloping hills just north of Treviso, known in cans. The 250ml cans of Riunite Sangria, in American Oak barrels impart a rich profile for producing superior quality Glera. Notes both red and white, are targeting LDA drinkers with notes of baking spices, to‘ ee, and of orchard fruits, pear, and lemon carry with active social calendars. barrel-mellowed rye spice. 101 proof. through in a rich, creamy, o‘ -dry style.

SRP: $ $9.99/four-pack of 250ml cans SRP: $27.99 SRP: $13.99 riunite.com wheelhorsewhiskey.com opiciwines.com

. CORSAIR SPIRITS . TRULY LEMONADE . NYETIMBER ‘’ Nashville, Tennessee-based Corsair Distillery, Truly Hard Seltzer has launched Truly PRESTIGE CUVÉES one of America’s most decorated and Lemonade Hard Seltzer, with real lemon Nyetimber, one of England’s top sparkling influential craft producers, has refreshed juice delivering the crisp, clean taste of hard wine producers, is releasing a duo of sparklers its entire line of 100% housemade (never seltzer and bolder lemonade flavor. Four said to be the “first ever” prestige cuvées sourced) spirits, led by core bottlings Triple styles will be available in a variety pack from the UK. Both inaugural “1086” cuvées Smoke Single Malt (SRP $47.99; named Artisan of 12oz cans: Original Lemonade, Black are made in West Sussex using classic Whiskey of the Year by Advocate in Cherry Lemonade, Mango Lemonade, and Champagne grapes and methods (1086 is a 2013); Dark Rye ($44.99); and American Gin Strawberry Lemonade. Like the rest of the nod to the first written record of Nyetimber). ($29.99) and Barreled Gin ($34.99; made using Truly Hard Seltzer line, selling points for The 2010 1086 shows a caramelized character vapor basket botanical extraction). The new Truly Lemonade include low sugar (1 gram) from extended aging. The 2010 Rosé 1086 is look features the familiar trio of black-and- and calories (100). 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. white figures, now with bold color accents.

SRP: $29.99-$47.99 SRP: $14.99-$18.99/12-pack 12oz cans (variety pack) SRP: $240 for 1086 / $275 for Rosé 1086 corsairdistillery.com trulyhardseltzer.com nyetimber.com

6 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com Does your cooler need a Does your cooler Face Lift? suffer from: Х Bad shelving? Х Leaky doors? Х Foggy glass? Х Lighting on the fritz?

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LION & DOVE WINES JUST IN TIME FOR PASSOVER

MV Distributing recently added two new wines to their Lion & Dove kosher and vegan wine collection. Lion & Dove Moscato and Rosé have hit the DMaryland and DC markets. Lion & Dove Wines are made from wine is the product of a diverse land- grapes cultivated and grown in renowned scape. The warm climate and fertile soil growing areas around the world. The make it easy to grow almost anything. Chilean wines, , Char- Puglia is surrounded by water on three donnay, Rosé, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sau- sides allowing cool breezes off the Medi- vignon and, of course, Carménère, come terranean to moderate tempera- from grapes cultivated and grown in the tures. Central Valley and the Valley of Sagrada These varying regional characteristics Familia. The Central Valley is Chile’s ag- produce unique and expressive wines ricultural heartland — including the re- that are both consistent and approach- nowned Curicó sub-region, 115 miles able — the way wine should be. Lion & south of Santiago. In addition to being Dove wines are kosher for Passover and Chile’s most productive wine region, the mevushal. All Lion & Dove wines are also Central Valley is known for its range of Certified Vegan and gluten-free. These distinct microclimates and varied terrain are wines made to be shared, and en- and soil types. The Valley of Sagrada Fa- joyed. milia is one of the oldest in Chile and is fa- The Lion & Dove collection is DMV mous for its farming traditions and unique Distributing’s first direct import, further- geographic terrain. ing their mission of delivering spectacular The Moscato comes from the re- wines at great value to consumers in the nowned Puglia region of Italy. Puglian Maryland and D.C. markets. n

Certified Vegan Kosher for Passover, Mevushal & In order for a product to be designated Gluten-Free certified vegan, it must not contain meat, The regulations for a wine to be certified fish, fowl, animal by-products, eggs or kosher include Sabbath-observing Jewish egg products, milk or milk products, persons handling and processing the wine, honey or honey bee products, insects barrels and tanks being designated kosher, or products from insects such as silk or and a rabbi or Kashrut-trained supervisor dyes, or sugar-filtered with bone char. observing the process. Wine that is described The reason not all wines are vegan (or as “kosher for Passover” must have been kept even vegetarian-friendly) has to do with free from contact with chametz, examples how the wine is clarified during the being grain, bread and dough, meaning that all fining process. Vegan wineries will use kosher for Passover wines are also gluten-free. more natural filtration processes, vegan- A mevushal wine is one that has been flash- friendly fining agents, or choose not to processed and remains kosher for Passover no fine and/or filter their wine. matter the type of handling they receive, so as to allow the wine to be handled by non-Jewish or non-observant waiters.

8 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

ARGENTINA’S HIGHER GROUND

NEWLY DEFINED SUBREGIONS IN THE HIGH-ELEVATION UCO VALLEY ARE PRODUCING SOME OF THE COUNTRY’S MOST EXCITING WINES

BY KRISTEN BIELER

e make mountain wines here,” says Zuccardi is among a growing group of passionate producers Sebastián Zuccardi, stating the obvious. working to classify Uco’s high-elevation terroirs and petition for He’s standing in front of the solid-stone Geographical Indication (GI) status for the emerging districts “ that, although young, are responsible for Argentina’s paradigm- W winery he built two years ago in Uco shifting wines. Valley’s Altamira district at nearly 4,000 feet above sea level where his estate practically hug the TOO HIGH, TOO COLD, TOO HARSH snow-capped Andes Mountains. When Nicolás Catena planted his Adrianna Vineyard in Uco’s Gual- tallary district in 1993, most believed he would fail. Lower Uco had Since joining his family’s Maipu-based wine business, founded by some vineyards, but no one had dared cultivate grapes at 5,000 his grandfather in the 1960s, Zuccardi has been convinced that Uco feet above sea level; the risk of frost was extreme, and growers as- Valley is the future for Argentina, and he has devoted most of his en- sumed grapes couldn’t ripen in the harsh, high-desert landscape. ergy and resources to getting as close to the mountains as possible. But Catena was determined to find the coldest place in Mendoza “The combination of calcium carbonate-rich, alluvial soils at to grow grapes, and the introduction of drip irrigation to the region this elevation is unique to Uco Valley,” he explains. “We can make meant that viticulture at higher sites was finally possible. He set up fresh, mineral-driven, high-energy wines here—totally differ- weather stations throughout the region and discovered that while ent from the fruity, formulaic that people associate with temperatures were similar to Champagne, the brightness and extra Mendoza. Uco is barely two decades old, so we are just now begin- hours of the sunlight could result in the holy grail of : ning to understand our terroir.” “Grapes on the edge of ripeness with fully mature tannins, natu- / MICHELINI / LAURA / ADRIANNA CATENA COURTESY VINEYARD PHOTOGRAPHS OF MATIAS SALENTEIN WINERY Bodegas Salentein. The first to put “Uco Valley” on its labels, Salentein is locally re- garded as the region’s “locomotive.” The results from these pioneering vine- yards were evident within several harvests. Grapes grown here possessed higher min- erality, more acidity and firmer tannins than lower sites. “I had never seen acid levels like this in Argentina before,” de- scribes Salentein’s winemaker of 20 years, “In Gaultallary, we José “Pepe” Galante (formerly winemaker at get grapes on the Catena). “They are the same as Chablis.” edge of ripeness with Word spread quickly. The last two decades fully mature tannins, have seen explosive growth in Uco with dozens of new wineries and high demand for natural acidity and Uco fruit from producers outside the region. only 13% alcohol.” Vineyard prices have increased twenty times — Laura Catena, describing her in some coveted districts. Trailblazers have family's Adrianna Vineyard continued to test limits, planting successful vineyards well over 5,000 feet and others are pushing higher still: José Lovaglio, owner/ winemaker of Vaglio, and the son of Susana Balbo, has planted a Pinot Noir vineyard (not single vineyard Piedra Infinita ), yet in production) in Uco’s La Carrera district which uncovered 40 different soil types. that sits above 6,500 feet. Laura Catena identified more than 200 distinct parcels in the Adrianna vineyard, AN APPELLATION RENAISSANCE which she now vinifies separately. For As many of these original vineyards come producers here, the tremendous diversity of age, the terroir conversation has shifted of soils and microclimates is what makes ral acidity and only 13% alcohol,” explains from simply elevation to soils, a topic Uco Uco so distinct from Mendoza’s two other daughter Laura Catena, now in charge of winemakers are obsessive about. Dur- growing areas—Maipu and Lujan de her family's Bodega Catena Zapata. ing my week in Uco Valley, I must have Cuyo—and what they believe calls for a Around the same time, Dutch entrepre- crawled into dozens of calicatas—eerily more specific classification system. neur Mijndert Pon saw similar potential in grave-like pits dug in the vineyard to ex- “Our growers have been pushing hard Uco’s higher reaches. But instead of a sin- pose various layers of subsoil. Some reveal for this GI system in Uco to focus on region- gle vineyard, he bet much bigger, planting large round boulders, others marine fos- al specificity,” says Jonathan Chaplin, co- hundreds of acres of mostly Malbec vines sils, pebbles or chalky calcium carbonate between 1996 and 1999, and constructing deposits; various combinations of mate- a massive, gravity-fed winery, christened rial left behind when glaciers and rivers pushed alluvial deposits down the slopes of the Andes millions of years ago. Zuccardi dug 180 calicatas in his Piedra Infinita vineyard alone (source of the prized

OPPOSITE: Matias Michelini's Passionate Wine vineyard. // THIS PAGE: Laura Catena (top) identified more than 200 distinct parcels in the Adrianna vineyard (left), which she now vinifies separately. // Established in 1996, Bodegas

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF MATIAS MICHELINI / ADRIANNA VINEYARD / LAURA CATENA / MICHELINI / LAURA / ADRIANNA CATENA COURTESY VINEYARD PHOTOGRAPHS OF MATIAS SALENTEIN WINERY Salentein was one of the most important Uco pioneers. UCO VALLEY WINE REGION

founder of Brazos Wine, a Brooklyn-based Sebastian Zuccardi (above, center) in front of his solid stone “My aim is to challenge winery in Altamira, where he installed eggs, amphora and import company which represents many of conical cement tanks for fermentation. // Eduardo Soler, the image of Argentina the new small-scale Uco Valley producers. founder of Ver Sacrum, specializes in Rhône grapes in as a producer of “No one in Argentina was talking about re- Chacayes. // Calcium-carbonate-rich soils in Domaine Bousquet's organically farmed vineyards. gions ten years ago, and today that’s all we only overripe, high do—we bring maps everywhere.” alcohol wine.” This new laser focus on terroir co- — Eduardo Soler, Ver Sacrum incides with a move towards a fresher wine style in Uco—and not only from the younger generation of producers. “Today we make wines that are focused on the place, with less new oak and earlier har- is generating a lot of in- vest dates,” says Zuccardi, who installed terest here today; though less than 1 percent 160 concrete eggs and large foudre at his of plantings, it's the district's most exciting new winery. “Working with concrete and , many think. “Gualtallary is the best large vats is a return to the winemaking place for Cabernet Franc in Argentina—it culture of the 1930s.” Salentein and other “Gualtallary is freshness and elegance,” needs elevation,” says Matias Michelini, who established names like Matías Riccitelli says daughter Anne Bousquet, who now founded Zorzal with brothers Gerardo and and Paul Hobbs report picking their fruit runs the domaine. “We get bright red ber- Juan Pablo in 2007. Fermented and aged in as much as a month earlier than the past ry, mineral, and floral notes in our wines, concrete eggs, Zorzal’s Eggo Franco is pep- and using more whole-cluster fermenta- as well as more structure.” Indeed, The pery, savory, and earthy with electric acidity. tion for added freshness. With less alcohol Catena Institute research center found Domaine Bousquet, Rutini, and Andeluna and extraction, a clearer picture of Uco’s that the unique luminosity of mountain are also big Cabernet Franc champions here. regional diversity is coming into focus. sunlight in Gualtallary increases tannins PARAJE ALTAMIRA: in grape skins. STRUCTURED, SAVORY MALBEC GUALTALLARY: Gualtallary producers find intense ter- A SUNNIER, DRIER BURGUNDY roir expression coming from even very In the southern Uco Valley, the Paraje In a corner of Uco’s Tupungato region young vines. Edgardo (Edy) del Popolo and Altamira district broke away from the with vineyards climbing to a mile above David Bonomi left jobs at commercial win- larger La Consulta region in San Carlos sea level, Gualtallary stands out for its eries to plant bush vines that naturally yield in 2013—the first GI declared based on rocky, alluvial, chalky soils. Convinced 40 percent less fruit than the region’s aver- terroir research, not political boundaries, this high mountain oasis was ideal for age—under one pound per plant. Their first which paved the way for Uco’s GI system’s organic farming, Languedoc vigneron vintage, 2012, showed an aromatic complex- evolution. Achaval Ferrer’s Finca Altamira Jean Bousquet planted vineyards in the ity and fine-grained tannins that would is arguably the district’s most famous shadow of the Tupungato mountain in take years to develop in young vines grown wine; more recently Zuccardi and Altos the early 1990s. Today, Domaine Bousquet in other regions, Popolo believes. “In Gual- Las Hormigas have built wineries here. is the largest exporter of organic wine tallary we are able to craft wines with rare Altamira features heavier soils than from Argentina, producing 300,000 cases purity that really speak of their landscape.” Gualtallary, with loads of silt and cal- of (shockingly affordable) wine. Bousquet (Gualtallary has yet to be officially approved cium carbonate—and some very large just debuted their first unoaked, sulfite- as a GI because the name is a registered rocks (which makes planting vineyards costly and difficult). Wines here tend to be free wine, Virgen Malbec. trademark owned by a single producer.) MICHELINI COURTESY / DOMAINEPHOTOGRAPHS OF ZUCCARDI BOUSQUET WINERY / MATIAS FAMILY OWNED VINEYARDS Our grapes are grown from our family owned vineyards, crafted into great, everyday affordable wines to be enjoyed with food, and shared with family and friends. From our vineyards, to your table, enjoy.

MARKETED BY BRONCO WINE CO. | WINES FOR THE AMERICAN TABLE WWW.BRONCOWINE.COM | 855.874.2394 | ©2020 STONE CELLARS, NAPA, CA UCO VALLEY WINE REGION ● La Carrera

● Gaultallary

● San Pablo UCO VALLEY

● Los Chacayes

● La Consulta ABOVE: The Michelini brothers of the biodynamic Salentein’s Nogales vineyard, at the SuperUco label, as well as Zorzal and Passionate Wines. ● Paraje Altamira southern end of San Pablo, gets enough rain // Domaine Bousquet, Argentina's largest exporter to make dry farming possible—an extreme of organic wine. // BELOW: Piedra Negra winemaker Thibault Lepoutre, in the estate's Chacayes vineyards. rarity in Mendoza (which has the lowest rainfall of any wine region in the world). Some of Uco Valley's newly defined subregions have Its Las Sequoias vineyard—the highest in Geographical Indication (GI) status, others are still in the 2012, and plant vines in non-traditional process of being officially defined. San Pablo, planted to Chardonnay and Pi- not Noir—is lush and green, surrounded by concentric circles based on ripening cycles; 80-year-old redwood trees, a bizarre sight they ferment with native yeasts in egg- shaped clay amphora. “Because of the very fuller-bodied with dark fruit and herbs; surrounded by desert. “A microclimate with- low pH we have at harvest, it’s so much Malbec—by far the district’s star grape— in a microclimate,” Galante describes. easier to make natural wine here; bacteria shows power and concentration with fresh Zuccardi picks his nine-year-old San is less of a problem,” says Matias Michelini. acidity. Zuccardi’s Poligonos Altamira, one Pablo vineyard—source of his salty Fósil Chacayes terroir suits a wide range of in a series of single vineyard Malbecs made Chardonnay and peppery Poligonos Cabernet varieties beyond Malbec. Piedra Negra grows in different districts, illustrates Altamira’s Franc and Malbec—almost a month behind a ton of , and their impressively unique underlying salinity. “The calcare- his other sites, and the grapes still result in ageworthy Gran Lurton White is based on ous soils here force vines deeper and add wines with lower alcohol levels, he reports. Friulano and . Luis Reginato, anoth- structure, which the Malbec variety can CHACAYES: HOTBED er leading force in Chacayes (and director of often lack,” Zuccardi explains. OF EXPERIMENTATION viticulture for Catena Zapata), is making a SAN PABLO: UCO’S COOLEST, Granted GI status in 2018, Chacayes has skin contact, concrete-fermented Gewürz- WETTEST DISTRICT long been an innovative area. Francois traminer under his Chaman label. San Pablo is Uco’s newest GI, approved in Lurton pioneered the region in 1996 when Eduardo Soler founded Ver Sacrum in 2019 following a three-year research ef- he came “looking for freshness,” reports 2012 to focus on Rhône grapes with cut- fort led by Zuccardi, Patricia Ortiz’s Tapiz Piedra Negra’s winemaker Thibault Lep- tings from an old Maipu planting. “For estate, and Salentein. A newer area with outre. The region’s rocky, non-fertile years, color and quality were perceived as a remarkably distinct microclimate, San soils are extremely difficult to plant, he the same thing, so Grenache disappeared Pablo sees more rain and humidity than explains; those undeterred are rewarded from Argentina—we want to bring it back.” other districts—and often snow. “San Pab- with wines high in natural acidity, tannin His bush-vine Garnacha and Monastrell lo makes wines with tension,” says Galan- and color—and the ability to farm organi- (Mourvedre) are both marked by floral, te. “It’s not common to see this relation- cally without too much effort. white pepper, cool-climate character; the ship between low pH and alcohol, which The trend here has moved towards Ver Sacrum Geisha de Jade, a - gives aromatic intensity and freshness.” natural, non-interventionist winemaking. blend aged 12 months on lees Lepoutre has transformed Piedra Negra’s under a veil of flor, is honeyed, nutty yet icon bottling, L’Esprit de Chacayes, picking bright. “My aim is to challenge the image one month earlier, fermenting in concrete of Argentina as a producer of only over- eggs, and moving away from new oak. He’s ripe, high alcohol wine,” says Soler. also now making a sulfite-free Malbec, a As experimentation continues in Uco, project that took him five years to perfect. new GIs are carved out and maturing vines At their SuperUco winery, the Michelini become increasingly expressive of place, a brothers (of Zorzal and Passionate Wines), new perception of Argentina will undeni- have been working biodynamically since ably supplant the old. ■ PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS OF BRAZOS / DOMAINE SUPERUCO BOUSQUET WINERY

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BAREFOOT JUMPS INTO HARD SELTZER FIRST WINE-BASED SELTZER TO GO NATIONWIDE

BY W. R. TISH

hile it is hardly a shock that The wine base sets Barefoot is bringing a hard Barefoot Hard Seltzer seltzer to market, it also should apart from malt-based be no surprise that they aren’t justW dipping a toe in. Representing the volume leaders, and biggest investment in a new product in the novel flavors offer Made with three main ingredients—Barefoot Wine, seltzer water, and natural flavor—each 250ml can popular brand’s 55-year history, Barefoot additional appeal. boasts 70 calories, 2 grams of sugar, 4% ABV, and Hard Seltzer hit shelves in February 2020 as is gluten-free. the first nationally distributed hard seltzer made with real wine. A big splash is called CASTING A BIG BUBBLY NET for, considering White Claw is currently appeal. Designed to be less wine- and dominating America’s hard seltzer market Bell adds that they are promoting Barefoot fruit-forward than its sibling Spritzers, and brewers (Budweiser, Corona, Pabst Hard Seltzers broadly. “We believe that Barefoot Hard Seltzers launched in Blue Ribbon) are entering with cans blazing they will appeal to many consumers. That February 2020 with four flavors, each a as well. includes current Barefoot fans, as well as combo: Pineapple & Passion Fruit, Cherry Barefoot blossomed into practically those that are new to the brand or new to & Cranberry, Peach & Nectarine, and a household name under ownership by wine,” says Bell. “The Barefoot consumer Strawberry & Guava. E. & J. Gallo, particularly among budget- is incredibly diverse. There really isn’t Barefoot Hard Seltzer is launching minded wine drinkers. The label is already a single category or two where we find with SRP of $1.99 for a single 250ml (8.4oz quite strong in bubbly, of course, with a our consumers.” can, $7.99 for a four-pack, and $19.99 for range of 11 fully sparkling wines in 750ml As Barefoot takes aim at its target a variety 12-pack. The Barefoot marketing bottles (SRP $9) and seven Barefoot audience and the competition, product team expects to employ a variety of ways Spritzers (cans and bottles). composition is key. The new hard seltzers to spread awareness, including in-store Yet the marketing team positions are made under the watchful eye of Jen sampling and social media. Anna Bell Barefoot Hard Seltzer as something brand Wall, who oversees all the brand’s wines expects demand for hard seltzer to grow new. “We’ve heard from consumers that (Barefoot remains the most awarded wine straight through spring and summer—and they are interested in wine-based hard and bubbly brand in U.S. competitions). plans to make sure that 2020 is the year seltzers because it meets their various taste Made with three main ingredients— Barefoot Hard Seltzer leaves a significant n preferences and is easily integrated into Barefoot Wine, seltzer water, and footprint in this fresh, evolving market. their diverse lifestyles,” says Anna Bell, vice natural flavor—each 250ml can boasts 70 president of U.S. marketing. “With Barefoot calories, 2 grams of sugar, 4% ABV and Hard Seltzer, we’re delivering a delicious, is gluten-free. light-bodied, wine-based hard seltzer that Those stats put Barefoot right on pace can be enjoyed at home, on the go, or with with the hard seltzer market’s wellness family and friends.” claims (arguably, it is even ahead of its 100-calorie peers). But the wine base sets Barefoot apart from malt-based volume leaders, and novel flavors offer additional

Variety packs, POS material, social media, and in-store sampling are all planned as part of the national roll-out.

Why should Scotch have all the grand-finale fun? Egan's is among many finishing their whiskey in sherry casks; “Fortitude” ends up in PX sherry barrels. The Sexton, made by one of a few female master blenders in the industry, uses oloroso sherry barrels. Lambay ages its whiskey in ex-cognac barrels. LEFT: The new Tullamore D.E.W. distillery opened in 2014.

rish whiskey’s reputation as a mellow, one-dimensional spirit is being upended by an unprecedented amount of innovation and diverse new IRISH WHISKEY’S entrants.I According to the Distilled Spirits Council (DISCUS), the high-end premium Irish whiskey category, representing SRP of $20 to $35, grew 1,106 percent between 2002 and 2018. And entries over $35 grew by a staggering 3,385 percent. This flourishing movement represents the next phase in the evolution of Irish CRAFT BOOM whiskey, whose overall U.S. sales topped NO OTHER WHISKEY CATEGORY HAS EXPLODED $1 billion in 2018 and now account for 12 percent of the spirit market by value. With QUITE LIKE IRISH HAS THIS CENTURY eclectic barrel finishes, age statements, BY AMANDA SCHUSTER heritage grains, and distinct expressions, 21st-century Irish distillers are succeeding by challenging stereotypes and winning over premium consumers. Bushmills was ahead of the curve in terms of age statement single malts and intriguing finishes, such as rum and cider. JAMESON: LEADING & AT THE CUTTING EDGE

The craft movement sweeping the world of BRIDGE BETWEEN OLD AND NEW In 2015, ’s sons, Jack and Irish whiskey has only benefited category Understanding Irish whiskey today calls Stephen, launched Teeling Whiskey in leader Jameson. Accounting for roughly three for a dram of history. In the 20th century, Dublin, initially using some of the barrels out of every four bottles of Irish whiskey con- Prohibition and the Irish War of Inde- they acquired from Cooley. “Irish whiskey sumed in the U.S., Jameson has carried the pendence were catastrophic. The coun- at this time was very one-dimensional,” try’s two main markets for whiskey—the says Jack Teeling, “[and] based around Irish category to new heights, maintaining U.S. and the U.K.—disintegrated. By the heritage brands with a very accessible double-digit annual growth even as the 1950s, all but two distilleries—Bushmills taste. To us, it was crying out for a more brand enjoys near-complete market satura- in the North, and Midleton in County craft-oriented premium Irish whiskey tion. While the shot-friendly triple-distilled Cork (producer of Jameson and )— with a unique full flavor and distinctive flagship whiskey remains king, Jameson has had died off. brand personality to capture the been hugely successful with innovative, pre- While the industry’s most explosive imagination.” mium spin-offs as well. growth has taken place in the 21st centu- Black Barrel, launched in 2013, presented ry, the seeds of renewal were effectively STARTUP CULTURE Jameson in twice-charred barrels. Jameson planted in 1987, when John Teeling con- In retrospect, the commercial success of Caskmates followed, with five editions, each verted a potato alcohol plant in County Jameson both drew in thirsty consumers featuring Jameson finished in casks that Louth into the . Though and compelled other brands to develop were seasoned in a specific craft beer; the it was always intended for large-volume effective points of distinction. The Irish Stout (2015) and IPA (2017) editions became production, one could argue that Cooley startups of the 21st century are pursuing a part of the permanent line. propelled what became a wave of modern range of profiles and identities, creating The latest and perhaps most provocative craft Irish whiskey distilleries. Cooley is a wildly diverse landscape not seen variation—Jameson Cold Brew, a 60-proof where then-emerging brands Connemara before in the category. combination of triple-distilled Jameson and (which started the Irish peated whiskey Some chose to release matured, cold-brew coffee. Just as Caskmates packed movement), The , and Kilbeg- sourced whiskey—typically single malts natural appeal for beer lovers, the new Cold gan were produced. (Cooley and its brands but sometimes single grain and pot still Brew is expected to attract coffee lovers. were eventually sold to Beam in whiskeys as well—with sophisticated 2011, and some operations have shifted to wine and spirit cask finishes. These in- the once-shuttered Kilbeggan Distillery, clude Egan’s, The Sexton, Knappogue where the first modern-day Irish small- Castle (most recently single malts fin- batch rye has been produced.) ished in Marsala, Barolo, and Bordeaux The years following the sale of Cooley casks), and Lambay (which is finished in were marked by further expansion. cognac barrels), among many others. Brands and distilleries either grew Some distilleries, as many of their from the dust of shuttered businesses American counterparts have done, or sprouted as new entities. In 2011 chose to source and bottle whiskey until there were four distilleries operating in their own distillate is matured—these Ireland; today there are close to 20, and a include Pearse Lyons (now distilling in dozen more are in planning. a former church in Dublin’s Liberties IRISH WHISKEY'S CRAFT BOOM

Slane, like many brands, is both old and new. Slane Castle has been in the hands of the Conyngham family since it was built in the late 18th century. In the modern era, Slane has become well-known for its rock music festival, first staged in 1981; and now Irish whiskey, created in 2017 in collaboration with Brown-Forman. neighborhood) and Clonakilty in County er. The Irishman Founders Reserve is a south of Dublin, first made a splash with Cork. Tipperary Distillery, located at blend of two styles—single malt (70 per- its unaged poitín (the Irish equivalent of Ballindoney farm, is using its own water cent) and single pot still. Writers’ Tears moonshine, also known as potcheen—a to cut sourced distillates while its heritage Copper Pot, launched in 2009 (the name style that had been illegal for centuries) barley whiskeys mature. honors Irish poets, novelists, and play- but is now in the pot still and single malt With increased sourcing, greater wrights), is 60 percent pot still and 40 game, recently with a 13 Year single malt attention to blending naturally followed. percent single malt, aged in American oak finished in Japanese mizunara casks. Louise McGuane is a leader in the bourbon casks. revival of bonded whiskey in Ireland; she Part of what has fueled the American TAPPING STRENGTHS operates on a family farm in County craft movement is an emphasis on lo- Larger, established brands, which have Clare, where she’s bringing back the J.J. cal ingredients; Ireland’s 21st-century greater stocks to work with, have an- Corry brand (named after a legendary startups are no different. West Cork swered the growing craft demand by in- nearby whiskey bonder). McGuane (one of the few distilleries in Ireland to creasing their age-statement single-malt blends and matures whiskeys from boast actual Irish ownership) uses Irish expressions—again, often with intriguing multiple sources. Her first release, The barley exclusively, as well as fresh lo- finishes. Bushmills now has single malts Gael, features whiskeys that are from 7 cal spring water. On the finishing end, aged 10, 16, and 21 years, the latter two to 26 years old. West Cork’s Glengarriff Series features finished in port and madeira casks, re- Bernard and Rosemary Walsh specific chars (e.g., Peated and Bog Oak). spectively. The Tyrconnell last year added launched their company in 1999, initially Startups focused on distilling their a 16 Year Old finished in casks seasoned bottling their Irish coffee recipe but a few own whiskey are gaining traction. with oloroso and moscatel, joining a trio years later switching to whiskey prop- Glendalough, in the Wicklow Mountains of 10-year-olds.

Whiskey tourism is catching on in Ireland. Tipperary Distillery has partnered with Dundrum House Hotel and Golf Resort to build a much larger distillery at the hotel and begin welcoming visitors in 2021. Pictured, right: Tipperary co-founder Jennifer Nickerson. Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with the

IRISH PORTFOLIO

94

• TRIPLE DISTILLED • 100% IRISH • CRAFTED BY IRELAND’S OWNED DISTILLERY ONLY FEMALE MASTER • SMALL BATCH GIN DISTILLER, IN A PRODUCTION • PRODUCED USING ONLY CUSTOM-DESIGNED LOCAL IRISH GRAINS COPPER POT STILL • CRAFTED USING AND SPRING WATER THE FINEST LOCAL • INSPIRED BY THE INGREDIENTS • 100% COPPER POT LUSH GARDENS OF STILL FERMENTATION • AGED IN GARNISH ISLAND BOURBON CASKS • ARTISANAL & OFF THE SOUTHERN HANDCRAFTED COAST OF IRELAND IRISH WHISKEY'S CRAFT BOOM

Tullamore D.E.W. opened a new facility arts champ Conor McGregor’s Proper No. in 2014 that brought whiskey production Twelve; and John L Sullivan, recalling the back to its home in County Offaly for legendary Boston-based boxer. the first time in 60 years. Tullamore has branched out with cask finishes of SELLING—AND MIXING Caribbean rum as well as cider, and it’s WITH—IRISH the only distillery in Ireland dedicating Bikram Singh, the owner of Norfolk Wine separate stills to grain, malt, and pot & Spirits in Norfolk, Massachusetts, still production. keeps more than 50 bottles of the Although the pot still whiskey tra- store’s more than 90 selections of Irish dition—a distinctly Irish creation with a whiskey open, including those from independent bottlers like Blackadder and Irish whiskey's shooter-friendly character was never mash of both malted and unmalted barley— in doubt, but mixability is becoming a strength. The has been embraced by many of the new dis- Exclusive Malts, so that customers can Royal Bermuda Yacht Club has Tiki vibes, featur- tillers, it’s a style that was given premium become accustomed to the various styles. ing Tullamore D.E.W. Caribbean Rum Cask Finish, status by Irish Distillers. Midleton distillery “The diversity of whiskeys from Ireland macadamia syrup, Curaçao, velvet falernum, lime, and Tiki bitters. began releasing single pot still has really grown over the last few years,” (like a single malt in that it originates from Singh says. a single distillery) age-statement whiskeys Cocktail-focused bars with extensive Vose advises using Irish whiskey in in the 1990s, and its Spot pot still labels Irish whiskey selections, such as The other types of cocktails too: “I like using (Green, Yellow, Red) several years later, as Dead Rabbit in New York City, see the the stone fruit and floral notes of, say, well as premium releases of heritage label emerging range of styles and flavors as Knappogue 12 Year Old to make lighter- Powers, such as Three Swallow. new opportunities for mixing. “One of style Manhattan variants. Pot stills are As would be expected given recent the beauties of using Irish whiskey in heavier and go well in darker Manhattan growth and Ireland’s famously vibrant cocktails is its versatility,” says Jillian and Old Fashioned-style drinks.” culture, the current U.S. Irish whiskey Vose, The Dead Rabbit’s beverage director What will the new decade bring for market is peppered with brands that and managing partner. “A pot still will Irish whiskey? “I am a firm believer that connect with Irish culture. Claddagh and make a much different drink than a there are still huge opportunities for Irish Donegal Estates conjure images of the single malt, blend, or single grain.” For whiskey,” says Jack Teeling, “It’s my view Emerald Isle. The Pogues Irish Whiskey is its signature Irish Coffee, the bar uses that we are in the middle of a long-term the toast of the punk band’s fanbase. Slane Bushmills because of its lighter style, to up-trend for premium Irish whiskey.” n is familiar to rock ’n roll fans, thanks to match the coffee and cream. “Put in a pot the famous Slane Castle Concert series. still like Powers John’s Lane and it’s all Then there are the two Irish whiskeys with wrong,” says Vose, “even if the whiskey is a rough and tumble image: mixed martial a gorgeous one.”

A vintage scene from Midleton Distillery, where Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, and the Spot whiskeys are produced. Knappogue Castle, among the younger Irish whiskey brands, focuses on single malts. INTRODUCING the DISARONNO SOUR READY TO DRINK

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BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

Raised by Wolves in San Diego has its back bar in the round. // Kellie Thorn at Atlanta’s Empire State South onsider the back bar. Part billboard, part shelving, this believes there is room for big brands and craft alike humble swath of bar architecture has become a battleground behind the bar. // Dave Fisher at Peppi’s Cellar in New York City filters selections based on a combination of for a multiplying field of brands vying for a scant number of factors, starting with quality and value, but also taking C slots. “With back bar space being at a premium these days, into account bar theme and category niches. it is very cutthroat when it comes to bringing in new product,” says Steve Walton, head of beverage at High West Saloon in Park City, Utah. In Marriott’s case, that “brand” is generally a hotel bar, and while local outlets The bounty of options for spirits buy- uct’s relevance within a program is par- may have mandated core-list products, ers has never been greater. But how much amount. “Other than the obvious value/ those operators can make locally relevant of a good thing is Just...Too...Much? Like quality of said spirit, of course,” he says. decisions on their own, especially with craft for a Netflix binger on a chilly winter “Taking in spirits just for the sake of or regional brands. “That only strengthens weekend, the surfeit of choices can feel a placement really doesn’t do anyone locality for our concepts,” Gruver says. overwhelming even as they entice. any good, including the supplier—if it’s But the appeal of craft and local only For Gary Gruver, senior manager something that’s not going to play into extends so far, says Kellie Thorn, bar beverage, Marriott International, which the brand, it will ultimately be dead manager at Atlanta’s Empire State South. has 7,000+ units in operation, a prod- stock and won’t move.” “We like to work with smaller, more craft

BALANCING THE BACK BAR

“I love a good Dave Fisher, beverage director at New LEFT: Alberto Miranda, who owns Nobody Told Me, says there are some must-carry brands due to customer loyalty. backstory, but if the York City’s Gran Tivoli and Peppi’s Cellar, // ABOVE: The expansive back bar at Peppi's Cellar. // juice doesn’t live up disagrees slightly. “To me the story is a bo- BELOW: Chris Patino, Raised by Wolves nus. I’m all about what’s in the bottle and to the story then there its value proposition,” says Fisher. At his isn’t much interest.” operations, initial brand selection is based “Like anyone else, I have a couple of catego- — Tommy Flynn, Paper Daisy” on product quality, bar theme, cocktail ries, mezcal and gin, that I am particularly program, and filling niches—until his bar fond of. A lot of my friends have made the guests vote with their wallets. “If custom- jump from bartender to brand ambassador ers are continually calling for a brand, over the years. I like to support where I can then naturally that comes into consider- and bring their products in.” brands, but we won’t carry a product just ation. The integrity of the venue is still the Bars that specialize can find it easi- because it’s ‘craft’ or ‘local.’ It has to be well most important driver, but at the end of er to decide, especially if their goal is to made,” says Thorn. “We aren’t anti-Big the day, we are here to provide people with stock a comprehensive range of a catego- Brand, by the way. Those producers are what they like,” he adds. ry. “I like to always have a few interesting often the benchmark and we look to them bottles to geek out on with my customers,” to set an example.” VENUE RELEVANCE VS. DEMAND says Miranda. “Right now it’s Fabriquero Chris Patino, co-owner of Raised by Meeting consumer demands, of course, is Sotol. Not only is it delicious with very Wolves, a bar and spirits retail shop in San sometimes a matter of accounting for the pronounced leather and grass notes, but Diego, believes there has to be “synergy” masses. Alberto Miranda, who owns Nobody it helps out parts of Mexico that haven’t between a bar’s ethos and products they Told Me in Manhattan’s Upper West Side, benefited from tequila production.” offer: “While you can’t completely ignore notes, “We are in the hospitality industry Buzz doesn’t do it for all buyers, the trends, or the wants and needs of your and that’s always part of the context when unless the demand becomes insistent clientele, I think that it’s important to stay making inventory decisions. There are from customers, though. “What is in the the course and stick within the lines of the brands that you just need to carry because bottle means more to me than buzz,” says program that you create.” of the loyalty their consumers have—Tito’s Flynn. “To be honest, I’m kind of weird A brand’s backstory can be a factor, and Hennessy come to mind. In certain when it comes to this. The more buzz too. Or not. “We love brands that have markets, not carrying them is akin to being something has, the less excited I am about great stories, but they have to be inhospitable to large demographics.” it. I love a good backstory but if the juice genuine/authentic,” says Patino. “I spent And then there’s personal preference doesn’t live up to the story then there isn’t enough years on the marketing side of and relationships. Tommy Flynn, beverage much interest.” this business, working with giant spirit director at Paper Daisy in New York, says, Patino has perhaps the best explana- brands that spun made up artificial tion of what gets bought, served, and dis- origin stories to give their brands a more played at most thought-out operations: interesting meaning. Ironically, a lot “For us, the absolute most important thing of those brands did have great stories when it comes to selecting new products is regarding their quality and production quality, followed closely by price, and fin- methods, but those weren’t the stories ished by answering one simple question: being told because they weren’t ‘sexy’ Would we be proud to serve this to our enough for consumers.” friends and family at home?” ■ Introducing RumChata Limón!

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HARD SELTZER’S NEW HOT SPOT HIGH NOON STAKES ITS CLAIM AS A BETTER BUBBLY

BY W. R. TISH

WHAT’S AHEAD FOR s 2019’s hottest beverage trend bar- “wellness” claims. West points out that as HIGH NOON? rels on and new brands enter the awareness of the hard seltzer category in- hard seltzer market, differentia- creases, consumers are more and more fa- n Continued promotion via TV, out of tion is more important than ever. miliar with these claims across all brands: home, and digital platforms High Noon Sun Sips, launched in May 2019 “They’ve become synonymous with the n Two new flavors—peach and lime— by E. & J. Gallo, is determined to stand category and what people expect to find. launch in spring apart from the pack, both in ingredients This expectation allows us to really high- n Variety 8-pack joins the 12-pack and image. light High Noon’s key differentiators: real in summer “Not only are we one of the few pre- vodka and real juice.” n mium hard seltzers, we are the only brand Partnerships with Barstool Sports, to use real vodka and real juice in our hard REALITY: CHECK! Florida Gators, and Michigan State Athletics seltzer,” says Britt West, vice president High Noon Sun Sips’ four flavors—Black and general manager for E&J Gallo Spirits. Cherry, Grapefruit, Pineapple, and Water- n 20-market “street team” to ramp up “Using real vodka, sparkling water and a melon—all feature the five-times-distilled on-premise activations and POS in Q2 splash of real juice in High Noon gives us vodka base and no added sugar. A number a unique taste profile from the malt and of elements informed the initial flavor of- OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS sugar-based beer seltzers.” ferings, according to West, including con- The Sun Sips cans are available both With 100 calories and 4.5% ABV per sumer focus groups, flavor trends in the individually and in 4-packs, priced at $2.50 12oz (355ml) can, High Noon delivers on industry, gaps across the current category MSRP for single cans and $9.99 MSRP all of the category’s widely promoted players, and, naturally, taste. He describes for 4-packs; 12-can variety packs ($27.99) High Noon as “a crisp, clean-tasting hard were just added. Because regulations High Noon’s May 2019 launch was reinforced with seltzer that provides a refreshing, real TV ads during the football season, and distribution regarding low-ABV spirits-based seltzer fruit taste without being overly sweet. was national by January 2020. varies greatly by state, West believes the We have received great responses from brand represents a special opportunity consumers and the trade ever since High to independent retailers: “Because many Noon launched. We’ve also been recog- independent retailers do not nized by multiple publications as the best or can not sell hard seltzers tasting hard seltzer.” or beer or they can’t compete In sync with emphasizing the purity with grocery pricing, of its ingredients, High Noon’s bright, they are not fully aware outdoorsy brand image is embedded in of the tremendous its name—Sun Sips—and packaging, with hard seltzer growth. colorful nods to the sun and sky. High High Noon is the Noon is not concerned with evening rec- perfect fit to help the reation; the brand speaks loud and clear independent capture to daytime enjoyment occasions—beach, the opportunity.” n pool, porch, backyard, picnic. High Noon’s POS projects its colorful “Sun Sips” identity and consumer-friendly attributes. Simply and subtly, the brand is positioning itself to be a part of daytime outdoor activities. # BEST TASTING

HARD SELTZER

1as voted by The Tasting Panel Magazine “ Hands down the best of the group”

to order, ask your local Gallo Sales representative

High Noon› Hard Seltzer brand was voted Number One Best Tasting Hard Seltzer brand in a blind tasting by The Tasting Panel Magazine. Three lavors of nine Hard Seltzer brands were part of the blind tasting.

Source: The Tasting Panel, January 2020. Rated via blind tasting of industry professionals against eight other brands within the category. Three lavors per brand were tasted. Vodka with Real Fruit Juice, Sparkling Water, and Natural Flavors, Alcohol 4.5% by Volume (9 Proof), ©2019 High Noon Spirits Company, Memphis, TN. All rights reserved. AVERAGE ANALYSIS PER 12 FL. OZ, ANY FLAVOR - CALORIES: 100, CARBOHYDRATES: 4.8G, PROTEIN: 0, FAT: 0. BAR TALK BOTANICAL INSPIRATION

MIKE DI TOTA, BEVERAGE DIRECTOR, THE SMITH, NYC, D.C. & CHICAGO

BY ALIA AKKAM

ike Di Tota is beverage direc- How Long He’s Been Behind the Bar: 12 years tor at The Smith, the casual American brasserie-style Favorite spirit: Mezcal concept with locations in New York,M Washington, D.C., and Chicago. Favorite cocktail: A perfectly-made Margarita

BEVERAGE MEDIA GROUP: You’re a If He Wasn’t Working in Hospitality He BMG: I know that you enjoy showcasing graduate of the School of Professional Would Be: A gardener, farmer, or spin local products at The Smith, like the Horticulture at the New York Botanical instructor Long Island City-made Thousand Stars Garden. Does that experience directly Pilsner from Alewife Brewing and the DC translate to your drinks? Brau Penn Quarter Porter. What is your BMG: The Smith, first launched in New philosophy behind this? MIKE DI TOTA: It was a happy accident. York in 2007, attracts a stream of loyal I never intended to go to horticultural customers. Since joining the company MDT: Our mission is to make people happy, school to learn how to make better cock- last year you’ve added drinks like the and by supporting our communities and tails, but it has shaped my approach and Gatsby (gin, pomegranate, hibiscus, lemon, partnering with small producers we are continues to inspire new ideas. When Prosecco) to the menu. How do you plan to able to provide the best quality to our learning about plants and understand- shift the beverage program? guests while making an impact locally, ing their specific uses and flavor profiles, which is important to us. I would imagine those aspects when de- MDT: My overall goal is to bring balance. veloping new recipes. Instead of focusing I’ve been focusing on tweaking classics BMG: With warmer weather around the on the spirit in a drink first, I start with on our menu and continuing to elevate bend, and your penchant for the botanical, the other ingredients and then build from the ingredients while keeping the pro- which ingredients are you looking forward there, incorporating elements to create a gram fun and interactive. I am also work- to playing with soon? balanced cocktail. Botanical-driven cock- ing closely with the culinary development tails have certainly become popular, but team, cross-utilizing seasonal items and MDT: I am most excited for watermelon were uncommon 10 years ago when I was thinking of ways we can repurpose ingre- and strawberries, and summer herbs like getting started. dients that would otherwise be wasted. lavender, basil, and thyme. ■

½ oz Orgeat • THREE OF A KIND Ingredients: ¾ oz Lime Juice ½ oz house Tequila 1 small dash Mole Bitters The Smith’s cocktail menu ½ oz house Mezcal Garnish: dried lime wheel, nutmeg groups over a dozen drinks by ½ oz Teeling Irish Whiskey style (bubbly, punch, boozy, ½ oz Combier Apricot Liqueur Method: Add all ingredients to spicy…); Three of a Kind is listed ½ oz Batavia Arrack van Oosten a mixing tin with ice; shake and under “crisp.” ½ oz Maple Syrup strain into tulip glass with ice. Turning inventory. And heads. That’s Proof.

Proof TM BY SOUTHERN GLAZER’S

Visit about.sgproof.com to find out more TOWN CENTER MARKET'S

JIMMY SPIROPOULOS BY TEDDY DURGIN FIGHTING TO PROTECT THE INDEPENDENT STORE OWNER

graduated from Clemson University in 1990. I graduated on Saturday, I drove home Sunday, and went to work "I Monday … and I haven't stopped since!" The Clemson alum is Jimmy Spiropoulos. His home is Mary- land. His place of work? Town Center Market in Riverdale Park, a store his father Pete started in 1988 with the purchase of Dumm's Corner Market. The Spiropoulos family moved the business from that 1,700-square-foot location to its current and much bigger ad- dress on Queensbury Road in May 2012 and changed the name. "My father basically signed over the business to [my brother Ted and I] years ago," Spiropoulos recalled. "But he still comes to work every day. He's 81, and you'll see him outside watering his beloved plants or cleaning up. We're here together on a daily basis, and it's been a good run." That said, he doesn't miss the old days at the former location. "The fruits of our labor never seemed to show there," Spiorpou- los said. "We were handicapped by space and lack of selection. Ever since we've been at Town Center Market, the hard work has definitely paid off. We've seen the growth. We've seen our cus- tomers more thankful for what we do." He continued, "Town Center Market is unique in that we do so much all under one roof. We go to great lengths to cater to every demographic in Prince George's County. We have 34 taps along with an Austrian-made growler machine. So, there could be a customer getting a 'fill' at one end of the store, while at the opposite end someone could be purchasing a money order or making a bill payment. Typically, those two customers are from Brothers Ted and Jimmy Spiropoulos of Town Center Market two different walks of life. But both are very important to us." in Riverdale Park.

34 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com But Spiropoulos and family have seen their fair share of strug- ter of time before it's statewide." gle. Four years ago in P.G., liquor stores were open six days a As evidence of the potential dangers he and other store op- week and closed on Sundays. "At that point in time, Town Center erators face, Spiropoulos pointed to Colorado. Starting in Janu- Market was only a beer and wine store," he noted. "We didn't ary 2019, beer -- just beer, not wine -- was allowed to be sold in carry liquor, and that meant we were allowed to be open on Sun- all grocery stores in the state. "Thirteen months removed, the day." average drop in overall sales in Colorado liquor stores is 20 to 40 When the county decided to let liquor stores open on Sun- percent," he stated, "and 200 stores have gone out of business days, Spiropoulos went on what he called a "self-lobbying mis- with more on the cusp of closing." sion" in the state capital. "Delegate Anne Healey sponsored a bill Spiropoulos plans to continue being vocal in hopes the coun- that allowed stores like mine to be able to upgrade to sell liquor ty and state can avoid Colorado's dark fate. "We once employed in order to better compete with the liquor stores that would now four people," he concluded. "Now, we employ over 20. We have be open on Sunday," he stated. "The bill failed in subcommit- a small-group health plan in which I pay for four of my manag- tee. That next year, we experienced a 30 percent loss in business ers' health coverage in full. None of my employees are minimum- on Sundays. . . . Several of the delegation members who voted wage earners. We are what the county has promoted! The simple against me pulled me aside and said, 'We feel you're trying to get fact of the matter is a store like Town Center Market makes its an upgraded license for free, and we think you should do what living off selling alcohol. A store like Whole Foods does not." n everybody else has done. Purchase a license if you can find one and petition to move it.'" He ended up buying such a license for $200,000 three years ago. "Today, I still owe a $100,000 balance on it. And now, just a few weeks ago, a bill was submitted by Del. Wanika Fisher to allow beer and wine sales in all supermarkets countywide. I feel like my family has played by the rules over the years, and we get punished for doing the right thing." It helps to have colleagues who know their way around state and local politics. One of the biggest allies has been the Mary- land State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA). "Typically, the MSLBA doesn't like to get involved in the more local issues," Spiropoulos said. "But clearly they understand the impact of beer and wine in all grocery stores in Prince George's County. If beer and wine becomes available in P.G. grocery stores, it's just a mat-

MSLBA New Logos 050703.qxd 5/10/2003 7:50 AM Page 1

Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?

Is Your Establishment a Member of the MSLBAMessage—Representing from Jimmy AlcoholSpiropoulos Beverage of Town Licensees Center since Market: 1950 Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)? One of"One Many of theAchievements biggest allies -has "MSLBA been the hasMaryland kept theState playing Licensed field Beverage even" for independentAssociation alcohol (MSLBA)," beverage Spiropoulos retailers by said. repeatedly "If beer defeating and wine chain becomes store legislationavailable

MSLBA—Representingin P.G. grocery Alcohol stores, Beverageit's just a matter Licensees of time before since it's 1950 statewide." MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No

matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with how proficient youexternal are at forcesthe operations such as legislation,and management regulation, of your suppliers, business, enforcement many factors agencies influencing and prohibition your success efforts, is by are outside your joiningdirect control.with other Your retailers best for chance reputable for competentlyrepresentation and through successfully MSLBA. dealing with external forces such as legislation , regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representationContact through MSLBA. MSLBA for Membership Information:

Phone:Contact (410) MSLBA 871-1377 for• FAX: Membership (410) 871-2545 Information: • E-Mail: [email protected]

Phone: (410)Please 871 provide-1377 the • following: FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected]

Please provide theName following: of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ______

Name of County Youror City Name: Alcohol ______Licensing Board for Your Establishment:______Phone: ______( ) ______

Your Name: ______Business Name: ______Phone:______( ) ______

Business Name: Business ______Physical Address: ______

Business Physical Address: ______

MARKET

SHOTS SHEEP DOG PEANUT BUTTER WHISKEY Ian Casker and Jason Wilson from the Sazerac Company recently kicked off Sheep Dog Peanut Butter Whiskey at Breakthru Beverage.

VINE CONNECTIONS NOW IN THE MARKET Breakthru Beverage is now proudly distributing the products of Vine Connections. For over 20 years, Vine Connections has delivered wine, sake, and spirits from inspiring families from Argentina, Chile, and Japan.

The Vine Connection launch meeting at Breakthru Beverage Maryland.

The Vine Connection launch meeting at Breakthru Beverage Washington DC.

36 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com FIRE IN ICE FESTIVAL Over 14,000 residents and visitors filled the streets of downtown Frederick, MD for the annual Fire in Ice festival, the city's largest First Saturday event. First We Sell Saturday’s are a series of events held by the Downtown Frederick Partnership that offer an exciting season of various activities to highlight the city’s eclectic and vibrant community. Bulleit Bourbon, Belvedere Vodka, and Smirnoff Vodka Businesses! had featured ice sculptures and winter cocktails for attendees. Discover ATKINS Business Solutions A division of Atkins Realty Group, Inc. Recognized Industry Expert

Steve Atkins, Principal Broker Business Intermediary Email: [email protected] www.atkinsrealtygroup.com

“Your knowledge and ability to put out fires can't be measured in dollars and cents. With all the issues that came up, this sale would not have happened without your expertise…” Ron S., Frederick County

“Steve was a critical component in getting our business sold. He had a vision on how best to bring us to market and delivered on it through will and determination…” Jack F., Anne Arundel County

Call us today! 410-757-4965 www.BeverageJournalInc.com March 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 37 MARKET WOODINVILLE WHISKEY CO. SHOTS The Breakthru Beverage United Division and Moët Hennessy teams recently kicked off Woodville Whiskey Co. Straight Bourbon Whiskey and Woodinville Whiskey Co. Bourbon Whiskey Finished In Port Casks.

REVEL AVILA Breakthru Beverage recently launched Revel Avila. Revel represents not only a new brand, but a new Agave based category, Avila.

Here are Larry Fioretti, AMC Marketing & Sales; J.T. McCray, Bruce Richardson, both with Breakthru Beverage; Emery Coccia, AMC Marketing & Sales; Ira Kasoff, Breakthru Beverage; Micah McFarlane, Revel Spirits; Mike Schneider, Breakthru Beverage; and Chris Abbott, Revel Spirits; at the Breakthru Beverage launch meeting.

38 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

MADE IN MARYLAND

NEWS AND HAPPENINGS IN AND AROUND MARYLAND'S BREWERIES, DISTILLERIES AND WINERIES

Brewers Association of Maryland Maryland Distillers Guild Maryland Wineries Association

This winter, the Brewers Association of Many members of the Maryland Distillers Maryland wineries celebrate Maryland Maryland elected brewery members to Guild are focusing on introducing cock- Wine Month this March. The celebration new positions on the executive board. tail programs in distillery tasting rooms begins in Annapolis, with an official kick- Sarah Healey, Milkhouse Brewery, is the throughout Maryland. This new consumer off by First Lady Yumi Hogan. Maryland trade association's new president. experience allows distillery visitors to Wine Month is a highlight for the indus- “It is an honor and privilege to be work- explore Maryland-made spirits while try, showcasing the economic impact ing as a representative for the incredible enjoying delicious, creative cocktails. The of the state's wine industry and driving community of brewers in our state. I am Maryland Distillers Guild has developed consumer tourism to wineries throughout looking forward to working with all of the Maryland Cocktail Menu, celebrating Maryland. our members to continue our forward local spirits and mixers. movement in making Maryland the top The Maryland Cocktail Menu, and all The industry makes $200 destination for craft beer producers and Maryland Distillers Guild information, can million in annual economic impact while directly supporting 2,000 industry jobs. drinkers alike,” said Healey about her be found at marylandspirits.org. new position on the Board. In 2019, Maryland wineries produced Pictured below is The Hair of the Wolf. 461,000 gallons of wine and vineyards To celebrate FeBREWary - Maryland Craft This is but one example of the many throughout the state are cultivating more Beer Lovers Month, the industry received delectable drinks that you will find on the than 1,000 acres of grapes. a proclamation from Governor Hogan's Maryland Cocktail Menu. office. The Brewers Association of Mary- The Maryland Wineries Association is land hosted a kickoff event at Denizens proud to announce "A Maryland WIne Brewing Company in Silver Spring that Experience." This inaugural event is on included the tapping of women-brewed Saturday, April 25, 2020 at the Westin Bal- collaborative beer, the unveiling of the timore Washington Airport. A Maryland "Women in Beer" trail, and comments Wine Experience features a sparkling from Maryland's Assistant Secretary of reception, a grand tasting, and a paired Commerce, Tom Riford. wine makers' dinner. Each portion of this The Maryland Craft Beer Festival returns event is meant to educate wine enthusi- to the Carroll Creek Linear Park on Satur- asts. day, May 9, 2020. This annual festival at- tracts thousands of beer enthusiasts for a More details about the Maryland Winer- day of delicious beer, live music, and fun! ies Association and A Maryland Wine Experience can be found at More information about the Brewers marylandwine.com. Association of Maryland can be found at marylandbeer.org.

40 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com