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070 076 Portugal Part 2Jp Rob.Indd ADVENTURE PORTUGAL PART TWO PORTUGAL’S Wild places Concluding their adventure into the country’s remotest corners, John Pearson and José Almeida spend a day with the local Camel Trophy Club before driving cross-country to tackle clifftop tracks on the rugged Atlantic coast 70 LRO April 2014 April 2014 LRO 71 ADVENTURE PORTUGAL The former Mina de Sao Domingos: a great place to drive a Land Rover YOU CAN DO IT TOO For the past two or three They didn’t come out to Remote tracks above the years José Almeida has been play, the miserable bustards Santa Clara reservoir operating ‘self-guide’ adventures in Portugal. He provides comprehensive information t’s a stirring sight, watching a seventh day of our Wild Portugal adventure. by pine trees grown for their nuts, but we’re to do the trip tailored to your convoy of Camel Trophy Land Rovers The sun is shining, the vehicles are all soon back heading through scrubland that’s requirements, including routes, snaking along a mountain track, with gleaming and I can’t wait to get underway. been scorched dry by the relentless sun. places to visit, campsites/ headlights and roof lights cutting We stop for lunch in Mina de São Domingos, accommodation and restaurants. through the billowing clouds of dust. Day seven which is the site of a huge disused open-pit On top of this is 24/7 assistance We’re in Portugal and all the Sandglow Serpa to Mértola and underground mine. It was operated by a for mechanical, medical and IYellow vehicles are privately owned – some British company, Mason and Berry, from 1857 logistics issues. It’s very handy to genuine, some replicas – but my mind is Highlight: São Domingos mine until closing in 1966, but there has been a have a native speaker on hand time-travelling back to the Camel Trophy and railway drive mine here since Roman times. Sitting on the if a problem does crop up. Prices competition years and I’m in a far-flung vast Iberian underground pyrite belt, it was start from £180. African or South American location. My Tangiers Orange ex-G4 Challenge mined for its sulphur-rich ore for production For 2014 José is launching Back to the present day… I’m standing on a Defender is looking a bit out of place among of pesticides and sulphuric acid. guided tours through remote Portuguese hillside, with LRO’s Europe Editor a convoy of Sandglow Yellow Land Rovers. We drive into the former mining area, which Portugal. The first, from Jérôme André photographing the convoy We’re with 11 vehicles from the Camel Trophy is now completely unusable for anything due September 2-13, will go from while our Portugal Editor José Almeida is co- Club plus José’s special edition Camel Trophy to excessive sulphur in the ore, and all water Rio de Onor on the northern ordinating everything over the CB radio. Discovery 1, heading south along remote in the surrounding lagoons are high in acid border with Spain through to the We’ve spent nearly a week driving some mountain tracks towards the former mining content – no vegetation and no wildlife. It Alentejo west coast. Cost is £480 of Portugal’s most remote mountain tracks, town of Mina de São Domingos. does, however, create a rugged backdrop for per person, excluding ferries. heading south alongside the Spanish border The track gets tricky in places, with deep some Camel Trophy-style convoy photos. Get more info on José’s website: from our starting point at Vilar Formoso down washouts gouged out by past winter storms Then we take a fascinating drive along the dreamlandrover.com. to Serpa, where José had arranged for us to demanding low box and precise driving. disused railway line, which used to take the Portugal is now a very popular be greeted by a group of members from the We’re in the central part of the Alentejo, ore to boats from Britain moored on the wide adventure destination, and most Camel Trophy Club Portugal. which is a lot more mountainous than I’d river Guadiana. Some sections of the route of the major UK tour operators Last night we dined in the historic centre of expected in a region known for its agriculture. are no longer there, but a lot of it is driveable, now visit it. See: atlasoverland. Serpa with club members and their families, I imagined we’d be driving a series of flat including a tunnel deep through the hillside. com; onelifeadventure.co.uk; as well as meeting two of the heroes who gravel farm tracks, but the route that José has Our journey with the Camel club ends at the waypoint-tours.com. represented Portugal in the Camel Trophy devised for us is a lot more testing than that. town of Mértola, but not our time with them. series. Now they’re all joining us for the One area is bright green, with the track lined We’re welcomed on the riverside by Rosinda 72 LRO April 2014 April 2014 LRO 73 ADVENTURE PORTUGAL Pimenta from the local tourist authority, who miss. He’s been a birding enthusiast for over tells us that Mértola is the Portuguese town 30 years and formed his company in 2008, that’s most retained its Moorish heritage, and running birding adventures in various areas of the best way to appreciate the architecture Portugal – group and individual sessions. is from the river. So, we join the Camel club In a couple of hours of driving dusty members for a delightful boat trip on the farm tracks and private land that João has Guadiana as the sun is setting. access to, he shows us a rich variety of birds, Our accommodation is in the lovely Casa including kestrels, buzzards, vultures, larks, da Tia Amália (house of aunt Amalia) in lapwings and a Spanish imperial eagle that Além-Rio. This translates as ‘beyond the river’ does a fly-past over our Land Rovers. – the other side of the river from the town. A beautiful small owl sits nonchalantly on We’re all dining in a nearby house, with a tree stump as we drive past, and João gets North African-style food followed by excited when he spots an extremely rare entertainment by what Rosinda says is a black-bellied sand grouse. mix of cultures: Cante Alentejano, which is All that’s missing is a sighting of a great traditional unaccompanied choral singing bustard but, despite driving to several from the region followed by a belly dancer. possible haunts, it proves elusive. Time is running out and we’ve a long way to go, so we give up the hunt, say goodbye to João and Day eight continue our journey west. Mértola to Odemira There’s a series of gravel tracks, then we’re back in African savannah-style terrain, before Highlight: the search for the going into a more verdant, hilly area as we get great bustard closer to the Atlantic coast. A lot of this terrain is covered with the invasive, sticky-leaved That’s the end of our time with the Camel shrub that the Portuguese call esteva, but is club members, which is a shame because more commonly known as gum rockrose. In they’ve been great company. But we have places it has encroached on to the track and an appointment with João Jara, who runs a we have to push our way through. company called Birds and Nature Tours. Alongside one remote mountain track My partner Pat and I are keen on all wildlife there’s a long-derelict farmhouse with an old – and João is here to help us look for some of free-standing bread oven opposite. Portugal’s wild birds. Here, there are as many We climb up dusty, loose-surfaced tracks to as 600 different species either nesting or on higher ground, with big views over the Santa stopover while migrating – plenty to go at! Clara reservoir. It’s starting to get dark so, We’re driving west from Mértola into what although José says we could have driven all of braga are known locally as the Pseudo-Steppes, the way to our accommodation on tracks, the guImarÃES south-west of Castro Verde. These vast areas prudent thing to do is drop down and find a of undulating grassland and cereals are the tarmac road. Driving tricky narrow mountain VIla real habitat of many rare birds, including Europe’s tracks in total darkness isn’t very sensible. PORTO heaviest flying bird, the great bustard. We’re staying at a comfortable B&B on a The beautiful Porto de Barcas As with most good wildlife experts, João remote farm run by David and Maria Ingham. at Zambujeira do Mar BORDER can spot creatures that most of us would David takes us down to the delightful tasca AveIRO freIneda THE CAMEL COLLECTION Vale daS ÉguaS HOW WE All of the vehicles that joined us are either genuine Camel Trophy participants, nice replicas or special editions. Here’s the full line-up (not all are in the photo due to some having to leave before the end of the trip). FIgueIra Got THERE da FOZ My recommended way Salvaterra DO EXtremO to get to Portugal from MONSantO the UK is via the Brittany LUIS DINIZ FIdalgO E KanKura LUIS MOIta GONÇALO AFONSO CAMILO PaulO LINO FARIA JOSÉ naturteJO geOparK Ferries routes from ALMEIda 1992 (TANZANIA, SOUSA SalaZAR 1983 (ZAIRE) GalveIAS CEREJO OLIVEIra ROCHA 1987 VIla Velha de RODÃO Plymouth or Portsmouth BuRUNDI) OR 1994 CHILE, 1996 1990 (SIBERIA, 1998 (TIERRA 1994 (MADAGASCAR) 1997 MONGOLIA 1993 (GUYANA) Series III 109in 1997 Discovery 1 CAMEL TROPHY to Bilbao or Santander (ARGENTINA, (KALIMANTAN, USSR) DEL FUEGO) (ARGENTINA, 300Tdi Mongolia PARAGUAY, Range Rover LIMITED …or maybe both, PARAGUAY ) INDONESIA) replica support MarvÃO in Spain.
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