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WWF Living Documents DGIS-TMF Programme Turning Turtles Reconciling Conservation and Development in the Pastaza Basin

• Quarrels about a waterfall • How the Kandozi conquer the market • Oil, the black poison • Turtle-eggs behind a fence • A new toy: hydro-electricity

Running from the high peaks of the Andes in Ecuador to the steamy Amazon lowlands of Peru, the Pastaza River connects different peoples and stories. Mestizos try to make a living by luring tourists to the waterfalls in the upper part of the basin.The indigenous Kandozi, living in isolated communities, try to connect to the market and stop overfishing in the lower part.Will the Pastaza programme connect these people? And will it connect development and conservation? PeruEquProef 06-07-2005 12:00 Pagina 2

LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme An ambitious effort

At the end of 2004, World Watch magazine published an different agendas. Indigenous peoples are basically alarming article* on the relationship between big preoccupied with the need to protect and legalise conservationist NGOs and indigenous peoples. After their lands for their own use, while NGOs want to establish protected areas that are off-limits to people. years of executing programmes in and around protected If they include indigenous peoples in their plans, they areas, the organisations would run out of patience with tend to see them more ‘as a possible means to an end the indigenous peoples because of their unwillingness to rather than as ends in themselves’. cooperate and their indifference towards biodiversity. The programme described here directly addresses this tension. People involved in the programme even get a little irritated when confronted with this t’s better to go on without them,’would become criticism. ‘It is totally false to say that development ‘Ithe predominant attitude, according to the and conservation cannot be combined,’Fred Prins of magazine. The article described a tension recognised WWF Peru says. ‘What we are doing at the moment by everybody who is familiar with conservationist in the Pastaza region, is a fine blend of the two.’ Breeding activities in and around protected areas. The main Few attempts to reconcile development and turtles in problem, according to the magazine, is that conservation were so ambitious as the Pastaza Charapacocha indigenous peoples and conservationist NGOs have programme. It is a (long-term) programme instead of a (short-term) project. Comprising a river basin, it exceeds communal and even national boundaries. Its goals are set not only on a local or regional, but also on a national and international level. And the programme is not executed in a national park, but in an area full of communities and economic activities. Of course, the tensions will not disappear at once. The Kandozi in Peru still tend to catch too many fish and turtles in Lake Rimachi. And there is no immediate solution to the fact that only a few people make a profit from the popular waterfall Pailón del Diablo in Ecuador. But at least there is a dialogue going on between the NGOs involved and the communities. The Pastaza programme is an experiment that deserves close observation. If it works out well, it can help to create the common agenda that is needed for NGOs and indigenous peoples who want to bring sustainable development into practice. If it doesn’t work, World Watch will have new ammunition for a critical article on the relationship between conservationist NGOs and indigenous peoples. ▲ * A challenge to conservationists, by Mac Chapin. World Watch magazine November/December 2004.

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Kandozi community Charapacocha The Kandozi go to market

The Kandozi are an indigenous people in the Peruvian Beneath us looms the small jungle town of San Pastaza region. In the past they chose to live in voluntary Lorenzo, a mixture of traditional pile-dwellings and isolation, later, they clashed with the racially mixed brick houses. Here begins our journey into a world without roads, tourists, electricity or waterworks, mestizos. Now they are about to make a serious entry into inhabited by people living in voluntary isolation. the mestizo markets. After a hot night, captain Mauro takes us in his deslizador, a fast aluminium boat, to the Pastaza. For hrough slight drizzle, our little Cessna aircraft six hours, we bounce over rapids and whirlpools, Toffers us a majestic view of the river Marañon, a carefully avoiding trunks and sandbanks. Sometimes tributary of the Amazon. In the distance, we can see a we pass a peke-peke (wooden boats named after the smaller river, flowing northward, deep into the strident sound of their almost horizontally mounted jungle. It is the Pastaza, our destination. outboard motors) or a community.

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme

Then we arrive at Musa Karushi, a small objected, but guards from the Ministry of indigenous community, consisting of a dozen of pile- Agriculture, who were based in Musa Karushi, dwellings, situated high on the riverbank. Like a protected the mestizos. Officially their job was to stronghold, Musa Karushi overlooks Lago Rimachi, regulate fishing on the lake in order to prevent stocks the biggest lake of the Amazon region. The area from being exhausted. resembles a large delta, with narrow passages, river However, the guards themselves were also taking branches and islands everywhere. Geographers call many fish from the lake. The situation came to a head this kind of landscape a flooded forest. Its in a dramatic confrontation in August 1991, when a appearance changes according to the seasons. In the large group of Kandozi kicked out the guards. dry season, the water level drops and the land But this did not resolve all the problems. becomes dry, in the rainy season the lake and the Traditionally, the Kandozi used fishing rods, spears rivers inundate the riverbanks and islands. It then acts and barbasco, a vegetable poison that is thrown into as a delivery room for a variety of fish species. There the water to stupefy the fish. They had noticed that by is a vivid water-world here, with caimen, turtles and using nets the mestizos made bigger catches, so they manatees (sea cows). Many of the hundreds of bird too began to use nets. They also started to take over and fish species in the region are endemic. the regulatory role of the Ministry of Agriculture. This is the territory of the Kandozi, a little known Every mestizo who went fishing on Lake Rimachi, indigenous fisher folk. An estimated 3000 Kandozi - had to pay a fee in Musa Karushi. This led to quarrels more than half of their total number - inhabit 27 among the Kandozi. The families living in Musa communities in the Pastaza region. Although they Karushi kept the fees for themselves instead of started wearing western clothes some years ago, for sharing the money with the other families, creating the most part the Kandozi have maintained their jealousy and discontent. traditional way of life, and have hardly mingled with mestizos or other peoples. Establishing a Ramsar site Over recent decades, things started to change for This was the situation that WWF Peru encountered the Kandozi. Mestizos from San Lorenzo and Iquitos when it began its activities in the Pastaza region in started fishing on Lake Rimachi. The Kandozi 2001. WWF had to start from scratch: no other

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme

conservation NGO had ever entered the region. It protects against oil drilling while allowing small- It was very hard to gain the confidence of the scale economic activities. However, it has one big Kandozi, recalls Mariana Montoya, who is in charge weakness: Ramsar does not set out any rules, it of the freshwater programme at WWF Peru. In fact it provides only guidelines. would probably have been impossible without the WWF convinced the Kandozi that they had to contacts of Lily de la Torre, a Peruvian lawyer who regulate their own fishing activities to protect their assists indigenous peoples in their legal struggles future interests. Because of the use of nets by the through her organisation Racimos de Ungurahui. Kandozi, and the continuing presence of mestizo The first thing to do was to decide on the status of fishermen, the pressure on the fish stock remained the area. WWF itself wanted it to be legally high. This resulted in the decision to abandon fishing protected, but the indigenous peoples living in the during the rainy season in order to permit the fish to region were divided on the issue. The Achuar simply breed and grow. There is even a total ban on fishing resisted, the Quechua wanted to collaborate under the popular paiche (the biggest freshwater fish in the the condition that their territory would be extended, world) until its stock recovers. The Kandozi also and the Kandozi first wanted to know more about it. decided to use nets with wider meshes, to prevent The basic question for the Kandozi was: can we keep immature fish from being caught. A final measure on fishing? Peruvian law prohibits or restricts almost was to regulate all the catches. all economic activities in national parks and other Although all these measures were adopted protected areas. But doing nothing would also bring voluntarily, there was a big and effective stick problems for the indigenous peoples, as unprotected involved: the ministry would return to Lake Rimachi areas are open to exploitation by oil companies and if the parties didn’t solve the problem of over-fishing other entities that threaten the indigenous way of life. themselves. That is why the Kandozi agreed, after After lengthy consultation it was decided to long and arduous debate. They even accepted compromise on applying for Ramsar status. technical assistance from the ministry. Time heals all Weighing the ‘Ramsar’, named after the Iranian town where it was wounds, it seems. catch of this signed, is a 34 years old intergovernmental treaty, morning aiming at the conservation and wise use of wetlands. Complicated relations A fishing committee and several committees of vigilance, established by the Kandozi themselves, now monitor the agreements. One of their responsibilities is to ensure that the mestizos stay out of their zone. However, the Kandozi with their paddles and excavated tree-trunk boats have no chance against the outboard motors and larger boats of the mestizos. ‘There are fewer mestizos coming in than before, but they still try to,’says Ihuaqui Tanchima, the president of the fishing committee. ‘We use words and patience to persuade them. If we don’t succeed, we can confiscate their fishing tackle. But we have only had to do that once.’ Another important task of the committee is to educate and assist the families involved. Depending on their size, every family is allowed to catch a certain amount of fish annually. That is why the catch is recorded. When somebody isn’t able to do the administration himself, the committee comes in to offer its services. The committee also checks whether the communities comply with the self-imposed regime. The problem is, Tanchima says, that by the time you know somebody has caught a paiche, it is already too late; it is no use throwing dead fish back into the water. The committee doesn’t impose any penalties. ‘We just talk with them to persuade them’, Tanchima says. ‘Only if it happens again, we report it to the

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme

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Kandozi federation. They will then warn the apu of people and fuel as well. So I think we need a boat of the community involved. This proves effective most at least 60 to 80 tonnes.’ of the time.’ Hernan Flores, who represents WWF in the The relation between the Kandozi and the Pastaza region, thinks Zundi Simon is mestizos is a complicated one. The Kandozi depend overestimating. ‘You have seen with your own eyes heavily on the mestizos, because the latter provide that they catch at best 300 kilos per island,’he says. them with salt. There is no electricity in this region, ‘There are about ten islands, so there is no way that so there are no refrigerators. Salting the fish is the the catch reaches 10,000 kilos a night. And with a only way to prevent it from decaying, and to be sure boat that is too big, you spend too much money on of having stock all the year round. The money to buy fuel and maintenance.’ the salt comes from selling fish to the mestizos. The second reason to aspire to a bigger boat, But the mestizos that go to Lake Rimachi use (or according to Montoya as well as Flores, is status. ‘An abuse, according to the Kandozi) their monopolistic Achuar group in the region received a boat of 120 position. They pay under the market price for the tonnes from another NGO,’Flores says. ‘The fish. At the same time, they overprice their salt. Kandozi are simply jealous.’ Normally, a sack costs about 5 or 6 soles, but on Lake Another point of debate between the Kandozi and Rimachi the mestizos charge 20 soles. All this WWF is under what conditions the boat would be stimulates over-fishing, because the Kandozi thus handed over. The Achuar got their boat for free, but need a bigger catch to buy salt and equipment. WWF is not willing to follow this example. ‘We The Kandozi are very much aware of this don’t give presents,’Montoya says. ‘From the outset, disadvantageous situation, but up till now they have we try to avoid any form of aid addiction.’ not been able to change it. ‘We have no boat to go to Probably, the size issue and the conditions under San Lorenzo’, Venancio Okama Simon, the apu which the boat will be handed over, will be solved. (chief) of Puerto Belen declares. ‘And they take The Kandozi know perfectly well that a small boat is advantage of it.’ better than no boat. But then the real debate begins. The Kandozi’s boats made of excavated tree- The boat will firmly link the still partly self-sufficient trunks without motors are perfect for fishing, but Kandozi to the market. More money will flow into wouldn’t make the trip to San Lorenzo, even less their pockets. This will undoubtedly change their with a load of fish. So the dream of the Kandozi is to way of living. How are they going to cope with this? have a big communal boat with a motor, to be able to ‘We are debating that now,’says Zundi Simon sell fish and buy salt in San Lorenzo at market prices. Kamarampe of Corpi. ‘Look, we don’t want to Prices would be better in that case, and the Kandozi depend on gifts. That is paternalistic. It forces you to would become less dependent on the mestizos keep on asking, asking, asking. We must use our visiting Lake Rimachi. income to be independent in the long term. That means educating our youngsters, among other Indigenous jealousies things.’ During our stay in the Peruvian Pastaza region, it The Kandozi’s idea is that the fishing committee seemed as though the communal boat was the only will administer their income. Part of it will be topic the Kandozi could think and talk about. assigned to the families, according to the quantity of Everybody had their own opinion, and almost fish they have caught. Another part will be reserved everyone wished it bigger: 50 tonnes, 100 tonnes, for the fuel and the maintenance of the boat. What’s even 500 tonnes was mentioned, although most left can be spent on the long-term goals mentioned by people had a 120 ton version in mind. Zundi Simon. One of the plans is to send bilingual ‘In fact, according to a specialised consultant, 12 teachers to the villages. But... isn’t that replacing the tonnes is enough,’says Mariana Montoya of WWF role of the state? Hernan Flores laughs. ‘You can’t Peru. Why do the Kandozi want so much more then? replace something that isn’t there.’ Montoya has two explanations. The first one is Does Flores think the Kandozi are prepared for miscalculation. ‘They still don’t know exactly how this new step towards western society, and that they much fish they are catching.’This is denied by the will benefit from it? ‘Many times, it didn’t turn out Kandozi. ‘On average, some 1000 Kandozi are well when indigenous people entered the market,’he fishing every night’, Zundi Simon Kamarampe says. admits. ‘You have to be educated for it. The Kandozi He is the coordinator of the programmes run by are learning about the administrative and commercial Corpi, the powerful regional body of indigenous aspects now. But there is always a risk that they will peoples. ‘Each person catches about 10 kilos of fish,’ enter the wrong markets.’ Zundi Simon continues. ‘So we are talking about some 10,000 kilos per night. And you have to carry ▲

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Breeding turtles

Sweating under the burning sun, with the aid of wooden poles, we push our boat forward through the dense reed. Our outboard motor is useless here, in the backwaters of Lake Rimachi. After half an hour’s toil, we arrive at the lovely little community of Charapacocha. It consists of a beach with some boats, and a pile-dwelling, home to a single extended family. The apu of Charapacocha, Oruzpa Hernando Cepina, leads us to an artificial beach that has been recently constructed. After some digging, he proudly presents us with an egg of the tarikaya, a turtle specie. Together with the paiche, the tarikayas and their eggs are among the favourite foods of the Kandozi. They like them so much, that they eat too many of them. Consequently, to prevent the tarikaya from becoming extinct, and ensuring the Kandozi can continue to enjoy their delicacy, WWF Peru has set up a tarikaya breeding project. It is also meant as a (commercial) alternative to fishing. With the help of Augustin Sanchez, a WWF assistant, the Kandozi have made artificial beaches in five villages. Each beach is a heap of sand, some 50 centimetres high, covering between 10 and 15 square metres, surrounded by a fence to protect the eggs from predators. Each beach contains between 50 and 80 nests with about 30 eggs each.The eggs are collected on the river banks, where they are less likely to survive, because of the many lovers of tarikaya eggs among the local fauna. The Kandozi are used to eating a lot of eggs, up to 12 kilos per family in a year. If the project succeeds, they will be able to keep on doing so, under the condition that they leave the first 30 nests in peace.The tarikayas from these nests will be released.The rest are for the own use of the Kandozi. They can eat them, or they can sell the eggs, which can could prove attractive as the mestizos pay up to 10 soles a kilo for them. ‘We hadn’t thought of breeding tarikayas ourselves,’apu Oruzpa Hernando Cepina declares.‘We are very happy with this project, especially for our children, because it ensures them a better future.’ Alberto Pisango Chota, the general coordinator of Corpi, is also satisfied.‘The tarikaya project proves that economic development and conservation can go hand in hand,’he says.

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme The liberation of a manatee

The manatee (a river sea-cow) is a protected animal, so ‘But to whom are you going to sell them?’ catching it is an offence. But when you have run out of salt ‘We don’t know yet.’ Flores asks the man to release them, supporting his and money, it is tempting to sell one. How to solve this plea with a biological argument: the animals are too problem? young and small to sell them. In fact, catching manatees is prohibited under the Peruvian law, but he island to which we are heading resembles the legal arguments are not always the most effective in Tsite of a rock festival, with colourful tents, fires, the heart of Amazonia, where policemen and judges people and music everywhere. Earlier this morning, are as scarce as polar bears. the men went out fishing, and now they are filleting The man is clearly not convinced, but doesn’t the fish in their boats. Later the women will salt the resist either. It gives Jacqueline Becker, fish on the island. communications officer of WWF Peru, the chance to Once we have arrived, two wooden poles catch our fulfil a role she has dreamt of since she was a small attention. They have been stuck into the ground, with child: the one of animal liberator. Carefully she ropes leading to the lake. In the water, we distinguish unties the manatees. One has a wound on its tail. the contours of two big animals with dark grey skins. Strangely enough, the animals stay close to the island ‘Manatees,’says Hernán Flores of WWF Peru. He for a while, as if they can’t believe what just jumps on shore and starts debating earnestly with one happened. Then they disappear. of the men from the community of Domingo Coche Apparently moved by a sense of guilt, Becker that have settled here temporarily for fishing. suggests to Flores that they compensate the Kandozi. Jacqueline ‘Why have you caught these manatees?’, Flores Flores hesitates, but then resists. ‘No, that doesn’t Becker of WWF asks. seem a good idea to me.’It must be made clear to the Peru acting ‘We ran out of salt, so we could not go on fishing. Kandozi that the WWF doesn’t reward bad as animal If we sell these manatees, we are able to buy extra behaviour. liberator salt,’the man answers. ▲

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The programme

Reconciling development and conservation Its main executors are WWF Peru and Fundación isn’t easy. But doing it in a region that until Natura, Ecuador’s largest environmental NGO. But recently was heavily disputed between there are other parties involved as well, like EcoCiencia and biologists from the University of Ecuador and Peru, and now forms a Kent. The programme is financially supported by battlefield for oil companies and indigenous WWF Switzerland, DGIS (Dutch development peoples, could be called a challenge. And cooperation) and the MacArthur Foundation. when you know that the challenge is to be An important strategy of the programme is to build met by a small staff disposing of limited partnerships. Fundación Natura for example signed funds which has to reach not only local but an agreement with EcoCiencia and the municipality of Baños at the beginning of 2005, aiming at also national and international goals, it environmental cooperation. WWF Peru has contracts seems appropriate to speak of courage. with Corpi, a regional body of indigenous peoples. Corpi is paid to deliver ‘products’like establishing a he programme Poverty reduction through committee that regulates fishing activities on Lake Timproved natural resources management in the Rimachi. Pastaza river basin runs from 2004 to 2007. It aims at A difficulty is the cultural gap between • empowering local communities, giving them programme staff (all mestizos) and the indigenous control over natural resources and access to peoples. Many of the Kandozi, Quechua and Shuar markets speak no Spanish and have had few - or bad - • balancing ecological, economic and social needs experiences with mestizos. But also between and • creating integrated river basin and watershed even within the indigenous communities there are management and mainstreaming it in national slumbering tensions and conflicts. This results in development strategies and international much misinformation and rumour, which sometimes processes. frustrates the execution of the programme.

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A problem that relates to the former, is the By trying to establish a river basin committee with vastness and impenetrability of the region. indigenous participation, and training local people to Fundación Natura operates two field workers (and a act as monitors, WWF Peru and Fundación Natura volunteer), and WWF Peru just one - they have to are trying to tackle this problem. Another instrument cover approximately 40,000 square kilometres of to promote sustainable development and prevent the tropical rainforest! Consequently, at the start of the basin from harmful activities is the elaboration of programme, there were still large white spots on the integrated management plans, in partnership with map, like the Amazon region in Ecuador. other public and private organisations. ▲

The Sangay Llanganates-corridor in Ecuador is rich in orchids The Pastaza river basin

he Pastaza river is 500 kilometres long and runs tremendous conservation value. The Pastaza carries Tfrom the Chimborazo volcano (at 6310 metres volcanic ash from the Andean highlands and deposits above sea level in the Ecuadorian Andes) to the it in seasonally flooded forests and swamps, thus Marañon river (at 180 metres in the Peruvian creating the largest fan shaped alluvial system with Amazon region). Its catchment area is 40,000 square tropical moist forest vegetation in the world. The kilometres, most of it tropical rainforest with Ramsar site is relatively well conserved and is the indigenous community settlements. The population home of rare species like the razor-billed curassow consists mainly of Achuar (65 communities, 13,000 (mitu tuberosa). It also lodges 45 palm species, 292 inhabitants), Quechua (18 communities, 6000 fish species, 265 bird species, 66 mammal species, inhabitants) and Kandozi (27 communities, 3000 57 amphibian species and 38 reptile species. inhabitants). There are smaller groups of Cocama, In Ecuador, the Pastaza runs through the Comillas and Urarinas. They depend basically on ecological corridor that links Sangay National Park fishing, hunting and gathering. The major threat to with Llanganates National Park. The corridor is also their way of life comes from oil companies. of great (scientific) value. It hosts, among other The river basin is very rich in biodiversity. Best things, 190 endemic plant species; more than are documented is the Abanico del Pastaza Ramsar site, a found on the Galápagos Islands. The influence area protected area of 3.8 million hectares in the Peruvian of the corridor is highly diverse in mammals, with a Loreto department. This wetlands complex is of total of 101 species, among them many bats. ▲

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme The Pastaza basin’s

Name: Marecera Kamarande Okama w (35) W Occupation: housewife, mother of 11 ‘ children k Living in: Puerto Belén s Country: Peru D What do you consider the biggest E problem of your region? ( ‘The lack of wood for the construction th of houses.’ u How can it be solved? W ‘By growing palm trees. We need seed, ( but we have no money to buy it. I tried to grow cedars, but they were eaten by

Name: Juan Alban Ramirez (66) Do you expect anything from people Occupation: hamlet president in Peru? Name: Oruzpa Hernando Cepina (50) Living in: Viscaya ‘It is far away from here. The only Occupation: apu (chief) Country: Ecuador Peruvians I know are merchants who Living in: Charapacocha What do you consider the biggest problem of come to sell things to us that are Country: Peru your region? cheaper over there.’ What do you consider the biggest problem of your ‘The poor water quality.’ What is your dream? region? How can it be solved? ‘To have a higher income from ‘Hepatitis. It has spread all over the region. Last ‘By examining the water. And by pumping tourism. A guest-house would be a year there were 25 cases, one of them in my clean water from the river Valencia. But we great help.’ community.’ need equipment for that, and money.’ What are you going to do to realize this? How can it be solved? What do you expect from Fundación Natura? ‘Help to construct a road to the nearby ‘The medical post can vaccinate the people. Our ‘That they support us in developing economic lagoon. We are willing to do the first medicine-man uses herbs, but these only take activities like tourism. But it should be part, the digging, but we expect the away the symptoms.’ sustainable, to serve us in the future as well.’ municipality to do the rest.’ What do you expect from WWF Peru? ‘That they will buy us a peke peke (boat with outboard motor) to transport the fish we catch.’ Do you expect anything from people in Ecuador? Name: Balbina Sundi (30) ( ‘We don’t have problems with the Ecuadorians, Occupation: housewife I they live far away from here.’ Living in: San Lorenzo l What is your dream? Country: Peru D ‘That we’ll have clean water.’ What do you consider the biggest E What are you going to do to realize this? problem of your region? ‘ ‘There should be more coordination between our ‘Hepatitis. In the last few years two of k people, the Kandozi. We have to speak with one my sisters died from it and now my u mouth.’ brother suffers from it.’ W How can it be solved? ‘A ‘Herbs don’t work, so we need w medicines. But there are not enough of W them.’ ‘ What do you expect from WWF Peru? t ‘They should collaborate with Corpi

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme astaza basin’s people

Name: Marecera Kamarande Okama worms.’ (35) What do you expect from WWF Peru? Occupation: housewife, mother of 11 ‘We need a boat to go fishing, but they don’t children keep their promises. There is also a lack of Living in: Puerto Belén salt. And we need to learn Spanish.’ Country: Peru Do you expect anything from people in What do you consider the biggest Ecuador? problem of your region? (Laughing) ‘They live very far from here and ‘The lack of wood for the construction they speak Quechua, how should we of houses.’ understand them?’ How can it be solved? What is your dream? ‘By growing palm trees. We need seed, (Laughing) ‘To have more children.’ but we have no money to buy it. I tried to grow cedars, but they were eaten by

Do you expect anything from people in Peru? ‘It is far away from here. The only Name: Peruvians I know are merchants who Paul Malo (36) blem of come to sell things to us that are Occupation: manager of ecological estate ‘The cheaper over there.’ other side’ What is your dream? Living in: Baños ‘To have a higher income from Country: Ecuador mping tourism. A guest-house would be a What do you consider the biggest problem of your ut we great help.’ region? What are you going to do to realize this? ‘The deforestation and the construction of roads.’ Natura? ‘Help to construct a road to the nearby How can it be solved? conomic lagoon. We are willing to do the first ‘By providing economic alternatives to the e part, the digging, but we expect the people, like sustainable forestry or ecotourism. s well.’ municipality to do the rest.’ When you make a living out of the forest, you won’t destroy it.’ What do you expect from Fundación Natura? ‘That they supply us with a network of radios, to Name: Balbina Sundi (30) (the regional body of indigenous peoples). be able to warn each other in case of invasions or Occupation: housewife If they don’t, they will fail to discover the a fire.’ Living in: San Lorenzo local needs.’ Do you expect anything from people in Peru? Country: Peru Do you expect anything from people in ‘An exchange of information. There are Shuar, What do you consider the biggest Ecuador? Achuar and Quechua living over there, just like in problem of your region? ‘I don’t know any Ecuadorians, and I don’t Ecuador. They could exchange ancestral data, for ‘Hepatitis. In the last few years two of know if contacts with them would benefit example.’ my sisters died from it and now my us.’ What is your dream? brother suffers from it.’ What is your dream? ‘Earning money while protecting biodiversity. I How can it be solved? ‘A big meeting where everybody can say am now eating up my savings. My opinion is that ‘Herbs don’t work, so we need what he needs.’ people who protect the nature deserve a salary, medicines. But there are not enough of What are you going to do to realize this? just like guards of national parks or researchers.’ them.’ ‘Help to prepare it. A secretary of Corpi is What are you going to do to realize this? What do you expect from WWF Peru? teaching me how to do that.’ ‘I have constructed cottages on my estate, and we ‘They should collaborate with Corpi are growing vegetables to serve to our guests.’

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Quarrels about a waterfall

Water, in the form of a spectacular waterfall The waterfall we are admiring is the Pailón del that attracts thousands of tourists, can make Diablo, or devil’s cauldron. The name is related to you a living. But what if a person owning the the form of the pool as well as to the rock-faces along the sides, which are believed to resemble a devil’s land in front of this waterfall exploits the face. beautiful view on his own? A swindler elcome to the eighth wonder of the world’, As natural and unspoiled as it may seem, the ‘Wreads the sign above the entrance of the waterfall has nevertheless become the focal point of restaurant. We have just descended a steep rock-path, envy, squabbles and anger in nearby La Delicia. This preceded by a warning that we were about to enter a hamlet belongs to Rio Verde, a parish of the Andean ‘private ecological area’. In the distance, the noise of town of Baños. Tourism is the primary source of the waterfall is already noticeable. income here. And the Pailón del Diablo is Before we can see our wonder of the world in the undoubtedly one of the main attractions of Baños and heart of Ecuador, we are urged to pay 50 cents to a its surroundings. It is the most spectacular of the boy guarding a chain that closes an upward leading dozens of waterfalls that can be found here. On path. A few minutes later we arrive on a platform holidays hundreds of tourists form queues up to the carved out of the rocks. The scenery unfolding itself viewpoint, causing serious congestion on the in front of us is impressive. Coming from a height of footpath. about 60 meters, the Rio Verde plunges The question that divides the parties involved is: perpendicular into a small pool surrounded by steep can a waterfall be exploited as if it were a private rock-faces. A roaring thunder and a vaporous haze enterprise? On the property issue, Ecuadorian law is add to the spectacle. crystal clear. Waterfalls belong to the state. But the

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme

Shelter Don Coco’s complaint is that the money Wilo gains with the waterfall is not being invested in the community. The conflict rose to such a degree, that Don Coco, together with some other inhabitants of La Delicia, tried to expropriate Wilo - without success. Don Coco grabs a drawing from a shelf in his shop. ‘Draft for a shelter giving access to the Pailón del Diablo’, it reads. It was issued by the municipality of Baños in September 2004. The drawing includes a ticket shop, a viewpoint and public toilets. ‘This is a good plan’, Don Coco declares. ‘The municipality should levy an entrance fee and invest part of it in the community. But we have not heard anything about it anymore.’ There is one little problem with the plan, and Don Coco knows it: the shelter is projected at the beginning of the footpath leading to the Pailón del Diablo. Tourists wanting to see the waterfall from nearby, will face two ticket-shops in the future: the one of the municipality and Wilo’s. Don Coco, who law stays silent on the rights of owners of land lying But still further raids on the tourist’s purse are wants the close to a waterfall. So the owner of the restaurant being undertaken. Walking from Don Coco’s place community to and the nearby viewpoint, Wilfrido Guevara, locally towards the waterfall, a sign catches the attention. benefit more known as Wilo, never got into legal trouble when he ‘Pailón del Diablo’, it reads, although the waterfall is from the decided to start collecting an entrance-fee. still quite far from here. A path leads us to a beautiful waterfall In fact, nobody disputes the fact that tourists have garden overlooking the Rio Verde and its rapids. Jens to pay to see the Pailón del Diablo. The real debate is Wüller, a German who settled down here eight years not on whether the waterfall should be exploited, but ago, receives us while instructing some workmen on who should exploit it. Wilo? Wilo together with who are doing up the garden. He looks tired. ‘I’m fed the community? The community? The municipality? up with all the tourists, some days there are hundreds The municipality together with Wilo? And this of them coming in’, he says. ‘So I’m going to move debate refers only to the spot we just visited, right in to a quieter place. I’m selling my property to a front of the Pailón del Diablo. Other inhabitants of Canadian guy. I heard him saying that he wants to La Delicia, with properties overlooking the river, are charge an entrance fee of two dollars.’ considering the exploitation of their views as well, as That would be the third ticket office in La Delicia. we discover later. One tends to become a little philosophical: how To understand a bit better whose interests are many ticket offices can a waterfall stand before it exactly at stake, we take a little stroll through La runs dry? Delicia, a humble hamlet that is literally divided by Time to eat, we decide. While we are having our the Rio Verde. First, we meet Don Coco. He owns a lunch in the open air, suddenly a jeep stops in front of small shop in front of the public garden, where the restaurant. Antonio Cadena, environment director cigarettes and canned beans are being sold, among of the Baños municipality, jumps out. ‘Yesterday other things. ‘When I was a child, there were already some congressmen visited Baños’, he tells us visibly tourists coming in, although they were very few excited. ‘They told us that between 200,000 and those days’, Don Coco says, while his wife serves us 300,000 dollars are available for the development of a cup of coffee at the only table in the shop.’The ecotourism in Baños. We immediately discussed it, waterfall was called “the hidden treasure” then.’ and decided to build the shelter with that money, Wilo bought the land next to the waterfall, which together with improving the footpath to the waterfall. belonged to his in-laws, in 1997. After improving the We also want to construct an elevator for elderly footpath and constructing the viewpoint, he started people and to install public toilets at the foot of the asking money from the tourists. A well-maintained path. If we use only local materials, no nails for tourist attraction - shouldn’t that benefit everybody in example, and contract local guides, I am sure this plan La Delicia? ‘Wilo’s title is false and he doesn’t pay complies with the official definition of ecotourism.’ taxes’, grumbles Don Coco. ‘He is a swindler! And As quickly as he arrived, Cadena leaves again. he steals money from the community!’ Considering ourselves as part of a living story by

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Pailón del now, we walk to the parking lot where the path to the runs deep down. The other side offers another Diablo, seen waterfall begins. It is here that the municipality has restaurant, belonging to an estate called El otro lado from Wilo´s planned to build the shelter. Amador Ramos, owner (the other side). It is run by Paul Malo. The entrance platform of the parking lot, is busy with the enlargement of his is free, but it remains to be seen if this will be the case restaurant, so he greets us with his wrist instead of in the near future. ‘I have to pay 80 percent of the his dusty hand. What does he think of the project? ‘I maintenance of the bridge and Wilo 20 percent’, agree. The whole community should benefit from the Malo says. ‘But look, during carnival the bridge waterfall. The money that comes from it, should be lowered about 30 centimetres because people were dedicated to the improvement of ecological footpaths jumping up and down on it. If nobody is going to and to social goals. Last week, a man died in La support us, I have to charge visitors a fee for it.’Are Delicia, and his family could not afford a funeral. we seeing the first signs of ticket office number five? There should be a fund for occasions like those.’ That evening, we meet Wilo and his wife Zoila at Just like Don Coco, Amador Ramos thinks that their home in La Delicia. After all the rumours we tourists will be scared off by two ticket offices. In his heard, they seem terribly normal - although it can’t view, only the municipality should charge a fee, not be denied that their house is bigger and more Wilo. luxurious than most of the houses in this hamlet. So, does Ramos himself charge anything to the ‘For four years I have been carrying stones and tourists that park their cars here? ‘I only ask them a carving rocks’, Wilo says. ‘The people declared me a voluntary contribution’, he answers. But according to fool. And now, although everybody makes a profit Jens Wüller this is not true: ‘He charges them 50 from it, they want to take this away from me. But I cents.’ am not going to share this with people who didn’t contribute to it. I pay my taxes, I am registered with Ambitious the chamber of commerce and the ministry, I think At last, we descend towards the source of all this that is enough...’ argument: the Pailón del Diablo. We pass several ‘The project of the municipality is illegal’, Zoila wooden signs. ‘Don’t touch the plants, flowers and adds, after having served us a big fruit juice. ‘They insects, and don’t carve trees’, they urge us. Every didn’t invest anything, so if they go ahead with the hundred meters there is a garbage can. The path is construction of a shelter, they will have to tidy, but it remains unclear what the self-declared compensate us.’ ‘ecological’status of this property is based on. What Before the municipality came up with the shelter we do understand, is that Wilo does everything he plan, it proposed that Wilo and his wife should share can to conserve the goose that lays the golden eggs. the proceeds of the waterfall. ‘They wanted to keep Starting from Wilo’s restaurant, there are two 70 percent, the rest would be for us’, Zoila paths: the one to the viewpoint, and another one, remembers with a voice full of indignation. ‘But our leading to a 60 year old suspension bridge that offers lawyers advised us not to do it. It is like letting in the astonishing views on the waterfall and the river that corruption.’

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme

other waterfalls as well. I suggested this to the parish council, but they did nothing. They only want our success. This community is not ready for tourism.’ He disapproves the idea of admitting market-stalls on the footpath to the waterfall. But he is willing to provide financial support to members of the community, in order to let them develop ecotourism activities or produce handicrafts that could be sold to the tourists. The next day, tourist director Edwin Vieira and environment director Antonio Cadena meet. Because of its sensitvity, they decide to cancel the shelter project. Instead, the long neglected footpaths near La Sign above the The couple encourages others to add to the tourist Delicia will be repaired. footpath to the development of La Delicia. ‘A hotel would be great’, The story is to be continued. waterfall Wilo says. ‘And there should be public footpaths to ▲

Paying for environmental services Conservation is a productive activity.So people on a broader scale, Garzón says.The money that conserve, should be paid.That is the tourists spend in Baños now ends up in great philosophy behind payments for environmental part in the pockets of urban tour-operators. But services. Fundación Natura and EcoCiencia most trips are organised to spots in the want to practise this philosophy in the countryside. It would be fair if tourists pay a bit Ecuadorian part of the Pastaza basin.Their first more.The tour-operators or the municipality goal: the Pailón del Diablo. should transfer the surplus to the rural ‘Our idea is to charge the tourists an extra fee for population, in exchange for conservation the conservation of the spot’, says Andres activities.You can apply this mechanism to the Garzón, an environmental economist working for whole Pastaza basin, Garzón adds.‘Frontiers do EcoCiencia.‘With the fee they are paying now, not matter, everyone understands the language the tourists contribute only to the cleaning and of money.It is time to stop treating conservation maintenance of the site. But money is also in a moralistic way: we should treat it in terms of needed to prevent the inhabitants from cutting profit.’ trees and contaminating the water.’ But he admits that there are some serious The Contingency Valuation Method will be used obstacles. In the upper part of the Pastaza basin, to establish a fair price.Visitors to the waterfall near Latacunga and Ambato, textile and agrarian will be interviewed to know what they think the industry are heavy polluters. It is not easy to conservation of the site is worth. Garzón wants to involve such powerful and remote parties in hire students for this job, because they are forms of river management, particularly when neutral.‘The inhabitants would tend to push the they are situated upstream, which makes them visitors to fill in a higher amount.’ less dependent on the other parties involved. Once a price is fixed, the municipality, the local Do Fundación Natura and EcoCiencia have other council (representing the community) and Wilo things in mind to help solve the conflict around should sign an agreement. In exchange for a part the Pailón del Diablo? ‘We are not going to of the entrance fee, the community would oblige mediate,’says Dania Quirola, who coordinates itself to keep the river clean and conserve its the Pastaza project for Fundación Natura.‘The surroundings. Garzón thinks it’s best if Wilo conflict is too complicated for that.We would risk charges the (extra) fee.‘I want to leave the being blamed by one or more of the parties question of the ownership aside. It is much too involved. But what we can do is to try to find an sensitive.There is a risk of creating a precedent: external mediator. And we can provide the if you expropriate Wilo, nobody will want to start a community with technical advice about how to tourist attraction ever again.’ develop local tourism. A similar project in the If this case proves successful, the principle of nearby Sangay National Park has given us a lot paying for environmental services can be applied of expertise in this field.’

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme Hydro-electricity, the newest toy in Ecuador

The impressive billboard is attached to a wall diagonally ‘Why did the dam in the Pastaza have to be built opposite the town hall in Baños. It promises to make there? There were far better places available. These Ecuador ‘greater’and to ‘stimulate progress’in the are all national political decisions, and unfortunately we cannot influence them.’ country. Besides, it says, the San Francisco hydro- The mayor of Baños feels his city has been electricity project will create 1500 new jobs. cheated. ‘They said that electricity would become cheaper because of the dams. But it got more expensive! Baños would become the best- ifteen hundred jobs? That’s a lie!’Fausto illuminated city in the world. Lies!’According to ‘FAcosta, the mayor of Baños, sits up in his chair Acosta, the inhabitants of Baños are very when he is informed about the text on the board at the disappointed about hydro-electricity. ‘The people other side of the street, which he hadn’t known about. say: they come, they fill their pockets and then they ‘Maybe they will create that number of jobs are gone.’He produces a document: ‘Look, these are throughout the country with hydro-electricity all requests for more lights in the streets. How is that projects, but not in Baños.’ possible in a municipality with so much hydro- Baños has two storage lakes with power stations: electricity?’ Agoyan (with a capacity of 156 megawatts) and Pucará (73 megawatts). There are plans for two other The dangers of dams storage lakes. San Francisco, the project announced Acosta is not the only politician who thinks in this on the bill-board, will use new technology. A tube way. His opponent in the recent elections, Patricia with a length of 11 kilometres and a diameter of 7 Guevara, is even more vehemently opposed to the metres will transport 116 cubic metres of water per projects. ‘A government toy ... an absurd fashion’, is second from the Agoyan hydro-electric power plant how she describes them. She points out the to an engine-room with two turbines which will disadvantages: the construction of the storage lakes deliver 230 megawatts of energy. The project, under and the tube damage the nature, the withdrawal of construction since 2004, will double the hydro- water from the rivers promotes deforestation and electric capacity in Baños once it is finished in 2007. erosion, the dams bring safety problems (people have The problem with hydro-electricity is that while even drowned because of sudden floods), and the Baños is closely acquainted with its disadvantages, it insects and pollution cause health problems. ‘The The Agoyan has experienced few of the promised advantages. ‘I deforestation and erosion make it more than just a dam loved the village of Agoyan,’says Fausto Acosta. local problem, because this contributes to global warming,’she says. ‘But the people in charge only look at the short term advantages.’ Guevara and her family were forced to leave the village of Agoyan because of the construction of the dam. ‘We had 45 hectares of land there, but with the money they offered us, we couldn’t even buy a new house.’That is one of the reasons she participated in the protests of the inhabitants of Rio Verde against the San Francisco project. This time, the population won: the water of the Rio Verde will not be used in the project. Fundación Natura aims to monitor the impact of hydro-electricity. By gathering and analysing data on the projects, FN wants to influence the debate on future hydro-electricity projects. ‘The plans for another two storage lakes near Baños will be debated in the National electrification counsel, Conelec,’ Dania Quirola says. ‘That is an important advisor of the government, so we try to provide them with information and influence them.’ ▲

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Patricia Guevara in front of her election slogan Monitoring the river

Far below us we can see the swirling water of the Pastaza, But this unsustainable practice, which moves the which is still a little stream here. Our viewpoint is a problem to downstream municipalities, is set to temporary bridge called San Francisco. It connects Baños change. At our feet, on the river bank, is one of the 16 monitoring points Fundación Natura has with a hilltop supporting the city’s antennae. The bridge assigned together with the municipality. The idea is and the upward leading dirt road serve as an escape route that local committees, consisting of about ten in case the Tungurahua erupts again. Steam and gas from inhabitants and technicians, will examine the this impressive volcano caused several casualties in 1999 quality of the water on a regular basis, using these and obliged the authorities to evacuate the whole town for points. The committees will be supplied with four months. simple measuring-instruments that can detect different kinds of biological and chemical contamination. The project, set up by the three ania Quirola of Fundación Natura points at two organisations with the help of the municipality, has Dwaterfalls. ‘That is all untreated effluent that is two goals: improved knowledge of the levels and drained into the river. The municipality doesn’t do sorts of contamination, and engaging the anything about it. Tackling the wastewater problem population as a co-owner of the environmental has no priority as long as 40 percent of the drinking- problem. The hope is that by increasing popular water is spoilt because of leakages and poor pressure, the municipality will change its waste maintenance of the waterworks.’ policy.

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Monitoring the water quality of the Valencia river

Relatively untouched A century ago Baños was a sleepy village without hotels. Today it is the fourth most important tourist attraction in Ecuador, attracting more tourists than the Galápagos Islands. During the season, the tourists outnumber the 20,000 inhabitants, and although the troubles with the volcano have deterred the less adventurous, still some 140,000 foreigners visit the town annually. Ninety-five percent of the city’s income is from tourism. Visitors are particularly attracted by the natural variety of Baños, which is situated right on the edge of the Andes and Amazonia. Therefore, it offers chilly mountain peaks as well as steamy forests, with wild rivers and spectacular waterfalls in-between. You can go hiking, climbing, rafting, canyoning, kayaking, go on a rainforest tour, visit an indigenous village or take a thermal bath. Two national parks (Sangay and Llanganates) are close, and in-between is the Pastaza Ecological Corridor, declared a Gift to the Earth by the WWF in 2002. With 85 percent of the vegetation in its original state, nature around Baños is relatively untouched. The biggest threats are from tourism and hydro-electric development. There is also some logging, and a growing number of greenhouses. Cross-border cooperation With our 4 wheel-drive, we take a dirt road to Reconciling the interests of people living upstream and Viscaya, an agrarian hamlet belonging to Baños. downstream would be best guaranteed by an international Here, 117 families make a frugal living growing body charged with the entire Pastaza basin, according to maize, potatoes and fruit, and keeping a few cows, Dania Quirola of Fundación Natura. She suggests that this chickens and goats. Recently, the water quality has body should be put under the jurisdiction of the Organization become a serious problem. A lot of cattle have died, of the Treaty of the Amazonian Cooperation, which unifies all probably because of drinking polluted water from the eight Amazon countries.‘That is a political forum, treating Patate, a branch of the Pastaza. Along the Patate are matters like cross-border pollution.Water management has many greenhouses, which use large quantities of political aspects, so this subject would be best in their hands.’ herbicides. But the river also carries industrial waste from the Ambato region. Another river flowing close Although the idea provokes a smile at first, Fausto Acosta, to Viscaya, the Valencia, probably has cleaner water, mayor of Baños, says he welcomes the idea of Peruvians but this was never investigated. visiting Baños to talk about the problems in their part of the Seated in blue plastic chairs outside the only Pastaza basin.‘No, we don’t consider the Peruvians our shop of Viscaya, eating a piece of locally enemies. People don’t want war, only politicians do...’ produced cheese, we converse with hamlet ‘Biodiversity unifies people,’former local politician Patricia president Juan Alban Ramirez. Fundación Guevara adds.‘I think it’s a good idea to establish contacts Natura tries to convince him that monitoring the with people living in the Peruvian part of the Pastaza basin. water could help solve the problems of Viscaya. The Pastaza doesn’t end here.We, the people of Ecuador With data that prove the good quality of the and Peru, must all be Pastazeñas!’ Valencia, the municipality could earmark money But before it gets to the point of international cooperation, for a strong pump, to transport water from the committees for both the Ecuadorian and the Peruvian part of Valencia to Viscaya. Or maybe, even better, it the Pastaza basin should be installed, Mariana Montoya of will try to prevent the rivers from being WWF Peru suggests. Local groups can join forces by contaminated, although this will be hard to exchanging information and experiences within these achieve with part of the pollution coming from committees. Once the committees function well, the elsewhere. international cooperation should start. ‘We want to turn around the traditional scheme,’ Dania Quirola says. ‘People are used to get things

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme

from the municipality. Now we ask them to collect conservation, our best investment’failed to convince data and hand it over to the municipality.’ the electorate. Running for mayor, she was crushed According to Juan Alban Ramirez, this change of by Fausto Acosta, who wants to narrow the recently roles seems to have perspective. ‘It would be broadened pavements again, to make space for the interesting to know how much water runs through the exapnding fleet of vehicles. Valencia, and what the quality is,’he says. ‘I think Still, there are signs that things are going to there will be sufficient volunteers to participate in change. At the beginning of 2005, Fundación Natura this activity.’ and EcoCiencia signed an agreement with the municipality, aiming at environmental cooperation. Three wheel motor-bikes This resulted in a kick-off meeting with key players Regardless the political background of its leadership, in February, and workshops in March, in which the the municipality has always paid more attention to inhabitants were able to participate. Tourism is the revenues from tourism than to its ecological among the main issues to be tackled. Although the impact. This has led to relatively unsustainable forms process has just started, Dania Quirola has high of tourism. For example, noisy and polluting three hopes that her organization can influence the wheel motor-bikes now jam the streets of Baños. A municipality. ‘They seem very open to the technical movement led by Patricia Guevara opposes this assistance we offer. But they need more focus in their development. She wants Baños to be a stylish and policy. We think the population can help us to quiet spa resort. But her election slogan ‘Tourism and achieve that.’▲ Black poison

Pastaza region, while for Ecuador oil is the main export product). It is David against Goliath (small Amazonian communities versus foreign oil companies like Occidental and Agip). It is also about having access to natural resources, the right of self-determination, land property, indigenous rights, and so on. Both the Ecuadorian and the Peruvian part of the Pastaza basin are rich in oil. But most of the violent confrontations between indigenous people and oil companies occurred in Ecuador. After the kidnapping of several oil workers, the Ecuadorian government had to intervene at the request of the oil companies. Some companies left or stopped drilling because of the hostile environment, but the tension remains.

A new battlefield Contaminated Broken pipe-lines, jungle rivers with thick Jorge Rivas of Fundación Natura relates the strong rainforest in oil slicks, massive fish mortality, resistance in Ecuador to the fact that the indigenous the Pastaza communities living on river-banks that have peoples in this country are traditionally well region in Peru organised and act as one - unlike, for example, the to walk for hours to get clean water, violent Achuar in Peru. Ecuador has a strong joint confrontations between indigenous people organization of Amazon peoples, Opip, and and oil-workers, an outbreak of the most indigenous peoples have found their way into dangerous variant of hepatitis B.* national politics easier than in the case of neighbouring Peru. he story of oil drilling in the Pastaza basin makes In recent years, the number of violent incidents Tgrim reading. ‘I consider it the region’s biggest problem,’says Mariana Montoya of WWF Peru. It is * The indigenous peoples attribute the outbreak of the also a story with well-known ingredients. It is about disease to the arrival of oil workers, claiming that cultural tradition and biodiversity versus economic hepatitis wasn’t endemic in the Pastaza basin, but this is interests (two thirds of the Peruvian oil comes from the not confirmed by other sources.

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has diminished. Money and lawyers are the main So being consulted isn’t a panacea either. One of weapons nowadays, and courtyards the new the problems is that the indigenous peoples don’t battlefield. Both in Peru and Ecuador, the inhabitants have anything to say about the oil itself. According to have to be consulted when an oil company is about to the law, the rights of landowners are limited to the drill in an area. That is, if the inhabitants possess upper 30 centimetres of the soil. Everything below legal rights over the land they are living on. This, that belongs to the state. So while the activities on the however, is where the problems start. Especially in ground, such as the manner of drilling, can be the Peruvian part of the Pastaza basin, many discussed, this doesn’t apply to the extraction of the communities don’t have titles, even when they have oil. been living there for centuries. For all these reasons, the indigenous peoples want Most of the efforts of the indigenous organizations a total moratorium on oil drilling. They feel that this are therefore directed towards obtaining titles. ‘We claim is justified by a report from the Ministry of have been fighting for titles since 1980,’Alberto Energy which says that oil drilling has had a negative Pisango Chota, general coordinator of the Peruvian impact on the life of indigenous peoples. ‘We don’t regional indigenous organization Corpi, says. ‘But benefit from it, it has only brought us death and the problem is that the state wants to issue private disease,’Corpi coordinator Pisango concludes. titles, while we are after communal titles.’But even What can the NGOs do, and what do they actually communal titles carry a risk, according to Mariana undertake, to assist the indigenous peoples in their oil Montoya of WWF Peru. ‘With communal titles, you disputes? ‘Basically we provide them with are still divided. To be powerful, it would be best if information,’says Jorge Rivas of Fundación Natura. indigenous peoples were entitled as a whole. But the ‘It is not possible for us to change the attitude of an law doesn’t make a provision for this.’ Argentine oil company. And we can’t stop the The importance of the land for the nine peoples companies from entering the region either. Apart from unified under Corpi can hardly be overestimated, that, the indigenous peoples hardly allow us to play a insists Alberto Pisango: ‘The land is not a father or a part in this field.’He sighs. ‘It’s a difficult subject, oil.’ mother to us, it is more: it is a holy cause.’According ‘On an international level, we try to maintain to Mashingachi Yandari Kamarampi, president of the contact with the oil companies,’Fred Prins of WWF Kandozi federation, Feconacadip, without land, a Peru adds. ‘Often they try to put on a green face at the people doesn’t even exist. ‘The earth is our life, the global level. That is a starting point for a forest is our lungs, the lake is our bank. In this conversation. But at the national level, it is up to the respect, we are millionaires.’WWF Peru helps the indigenous organizations to talk with them. We don’t indigenous peoples in their legal struggle to obtain want to get into that, it’s a very delicate process. We titles by supporting the special land entitling project only do so if the indigenous peoples themselves ask (Pett) of the Ministry of Agriculture. us. In general we think it’s better if we inform them about their rights and teach them how to negotiate, A delicate process but let them do the negotiating themselves.’ But, to make things even more complicated: holding Since the end of 2004, a fierce debate has been a title isn’t a guarantee either. In the past, many raging, initiated by the World Watch Institute, about communities possessing titles simply weren’t the relationship between conservationist consulted. After the violent clashes, most oil organizations and indigenous peoples. According to companies changed their attitude. Now they try to an article by Mac Chapin, ‘A challenge to establish contact most of the time, even when a conservationists’(World Watch Magazine, community is not entitled. But a common strategy is November/December 2004), large NGOs like WWF to talk only with separate communities, not with the depend more and more on corporate money. This representative organizations of the indigenous could affect their critical attitude towards the peoples. This makes it easier for the oil companies to destructive and contaminating activities of these divide and rule. multinationals. With great regret the indigenous organizations Is this the case in the Pastaza basin? Fred Prins admit that this proves a successful strategy. Several denies it. ‘WWF doesn’t accept money from oil communities permitted drilling activities in companies anymore, precisely to avoid this possible exchange for money or gifts. ‘They come and say conflict of interests.’According to Prins, a big mistake that oil will bring development and prosperity, that that is often made in this debate, is that people expect our children will be able to go to university. Or they too much of the conservationist NGOs. ‘They make us promise to build hospitals. Unfortunately, some out to be more powerful than we are. But oil companies people believe this. But where are the hospitals? And are much bigger. People tend to forget that.’ where is our clean water?’, Alberto Pisango asks. ▲

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LIVING DOCUMENTS WWF DGIS-TMF Programme

Conclusion And a river runs through it One of the dreams of the people behind the Pastaza basin have to invest in people (but don’t give them programme is to bring together the Ecuadorian and presents), you have to make them responsible (but don’t expect too much). And always remember that Peruvian inhabitants of the river basin. The idea is reality in the rainforest is not like at home. ‘A simple: they depend on the same river, and live close to permanent balancing between flexibility and each other, so why shouldn’t they meet each other, to be uncertainty’, is how Mariana Montoya of WWF Peru able to talk about their common life-line, the Pastaza? describes it. At its start, the Pastaza basin programme basically e thought it was easy: you just take a boat and pursues local goals, like establishing water and Wcross the border. We can tell you now that it is fishing committees and local management plans. The far from easy. There is no regular service, there is no good news is that this is not the only focus. The bad customs house, there are no repair shops, there is news is that the national and international goals aren’t only a very turbulent river and lots of rainforest. You the easiest part, even less because of the restricted can only visit both sides of the basin by taking a personal and financial capacity of the programme. plane from Lima to Tarapoto, than a smaller plane But sometimes, when you are sitting in the sun, from Tarapoto to San Lorenzo, and finally, a boat thinking of how to cross the border by boat, a golden from San Lorenzo to the Pastaza. Then you turn idea emerges. This is how the tarikaya (turtle) around to travel all the way back, take an breeding project was born. This simple but ingenious international flight from Lima to Quito and travel by project proves the viability of sustainable Landrover to the Ecuadorian part of the basin. Once development: you can increase the turtle population there, you are exhausted after covering only 400 and generate an income at the same time. That is kilometres in three days. turning turtles! So that’s one difficulty. The gap between the Maybe we can say that the Poverty reduction programme assistants (mestizos) and the inhabitants through improved natural resources management in (indigenous) is another one. The mutual conflicts of the Pastaza river basin programme the indigenous peoples don’t make things easier will be a success when in the end either, not to mention their different expectations. more than one Ecuadorian The Peruvian part of the basin is suffering from an inhabitant of the basin has outbreak of hepatitis, so the Kandozi, Achuar and visited Lake Rimachi in Quechua living there want WWF to cure them. But Peru to see the turtles WWF doesn’t cure people. It is not easy to explain with his own eyes. that to people with dying relatives. ▲ In the end, it is all a question of building trust. You PeruEquProef 06-07-2005 12:00 Pagina 24

Acknowledgements All text written by Menno Bosma/Bureau M&O Environment & Development Productions © WWF June 2005

Published by the DGIS-TMF Programme based at WWF International. For further copies contact Chantal Page, DGIS-TMF Programme WWF International, Avenue de Mont Blanc 27, 1196 Gland, Switzerland Tel: +41 22 364 90 34, Fax +41 22 364 0640, E-mail: [email protected]

All pictures by Ellen Verheul/Bureau M&O Layout and design: MMS Grafisch Werk, Amsterdam,The Netherlands Production: Bureau M&O, Amsterdam,The Netherlands

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