The South End Historical Society NEWSLETTER 532 Massachusetts Avenue, Boston, Massachusetts 02118-1402 — Vol. 38 No.1, Fall 2010

Remembering “A Splendid Block of Houses” by Stephen Jerome In anticipation of our 42nd Annual House Tour, we are reprinting this article, originally published in 1859 by the Boston Saturday Evening Gazette, which features one of the houses that will be on the tour, 529 Massachusetts Avenue, at the time identified as 72 Chester Square.

he recent discovery and republication here of the accompanying Tarticles and illustration from the Boston Saturday Evening Gazette chronicle the development of Chester Square and West Ches- ter Park in startling detail. They This engraving of West Chester Park by Kilburn & Mallory was based on a photograph by John L. Whipple. Image Courtesy of The Boston Athenaeum provide considerable supple- mentary information to the such early projects as the Avenue in the Back Bay. The existing body of documentation Tontine Crescent (1793), Louis- engraving of West Chester for what is regarded as the burg Square (1826) and Park by Kilburn & Mallory first and, in its original configu- Pemberton Square (1835). Yet, and based on a photograph by ration, the grandest of the the creation of treelined John A Whipple portrays the South End squares. malls at the east and west ends, width and grandeur of the new The original oval-shaped between Washington Street urban residential landscape in park flanked by predominantly and Harrison Avenue, and marked contrast to the narrow bow, or swell-fronted, row Tremont Street and Columbus streets and lanes of old Bos- houses follows in the well- Avenue, respectively, is an in- ton. Mansard roofs with boldly established pattern conceived in novative feature in this develop- projecting dormers add an up- the late eighteenth century by ment and anticipates the later to-date architectural touch to Charles Bulfinch and seen in development of Commonwealth the traditional bow-fronted row continued page 2 p

Celebrating the 27th Year of the South End Landmark District  pcontinued from page 1 A Splendid Block of Houses houses. The harmony and unity presented in the engraving serve as visual evidence of the South hester Square was laid out and sold at public End as described by Walter H. auction by the city of Boston, October 30, 1850, the city Kilham in Boston After Bulfinch: guaranteeing to build fences, lay out walks, and plant “One of the handsomest ex- Csome shrubbery and forest trees as would make the same orna- amples of urban city planning to mental, previous to 1852. Very little building was done for the first be found in America.” few years, some two or three houses only, but during the last four The engraving and the edi- years the improvements have gone on rapidly, so much so that torial describing West Chester out of the original forty lots fronting on the square, there are but Park and its houses reflect the three or four left vacant, and these are held by those who will soon widespread civic and commer- commence building; and to show still further how the square has cial interest in the development improved, lots that sold 8 years ago for eighty-five cents per foot, of the South End which, as are now sold for three dollars per foot. The fifty lots not facing the the editorial notes, “was a very square, but the mall leading from Washington Street, have fine barren and uninteresting local- houses erected upon them, and are nearly all occupied. Among the ity,” utterly transformed within many improvements here, there are none more striking and pleas- a span of a few short years. ing to the eye than the new block designed by John R. Hall, archi- The participation of prominent tect, and built under his personal supervision, situated on the left businessmen and civic leaders hand of the square passing from Washington Street. The houses in the enterprise assured the are four stories high. The house immediately in the bend, and early success of the develop- commanding an entire view of the square, was built to order for ment. On Chester Square the Charles O. Rogers, Esquire, under his daily inspection. The base- property values tripled from ment story contains a large dining room sixteen by twenty-two $.85 to $3.00 per foot within feet, with circular ends, and two closets attached; in the rear is the the course of the decade of the wash-room, fitted up with soapstone, etc., in the best manner; and 1850s. The residence of newspa- connected with this in the ell building is a beautiful kitchen fifteen per publisher Charles O. Rog- by twenty-two feet, with all the conveniences that can be put into ers is the subject of one of the the same. The woodwork of this story is of chestnut, and finished richest contemporary accounts with an extra surface. The parlor story is reached by ascending of a Chester Square townhouse eleven stone steps, into a vestibule three by ten feet, finished with to come to light, and it indi- an Italian marble floor and plinth. The drawing room is sixteen by cates further the manner in forty-two feet, and thirteen feet high, with circular ends. Adjoin- which the new real estate was ing this room is the parlor, oval in form, size fifteen by twenty-two promoted by the newspaper feet, the passage connecting these rooms has nitches (sic) on each publishers as a complement to continued page 6 p the advertisements. The South End Historical Society Newsletter  South End Landmark District Commission Update Plans for Hotel Alexandra and Ivory Bean House Under Way

n 2008,the Church of Scientology pur- chased the Hotel Alexandra at the corner of Washington Street and Massachusetts Ave- I nue and the Ivory Bean building next door. After rehabilitation, the Church plans to use the property as their headquarters in Boston. Church officials have participated in several public hearings at the South End Landmark District Commission and have cooperated in revising their designs with advice and input Ivory Bean House, 1972 from the Commission and the neighboring South End community. The uncertainty about the fate of these two historic buildings is finally reaching an end. Hotel Alexandra, 1972

New Construction at 97 West the Landmark Commission that will restore this Springfield Street former symmetry. The designs feature a gabled end-wall and two faux chimneys. lot at the corner of Shawmut The developers have been asked to submit a Avenue and West Springfield Street, field mock-up for review. which has long been vacant, is slated South End Landmark District Commis- for development. Originally, the buildings on sion holds public hearings on the first A Tuesday of the block formed by Newland Street, Shawmut Avenue, West Springfield Street, and Worcester each month. Street were laid out in a symmetrical fashion, For more with the houses from 32 to 40 Worcester Street information, mirroring the houses on the opposite side of the call the block from 97 to 105 West Springfield Street. Environment The original Shawmut Avenue façade of 97 Department West Springfield Street would most likely have at City Hall been identical to the Shawmut Avenue façade of at (617) 635- 32 Worcester Street. 3850. On July 8, 2010, the new project’s architect 97 West Springfield Street included designs in his official application to 

Upcoming Events This newsletter is published by the South End Historical Society, 42nd Annual Inc. © Copyright 2010 South End The SEHS Newsletter is just one benefit House Tour of membership in the Society; a non- profit organization dedicated to rec- ognizing, preserving and recording the oin us on Saturday, Octo- historical buildings, monuments, parks ber 16 for our 42nd Annual and artifacts of Boston’s South End and through advocacy, outreach, docu- House Tour. The tour runs mentation and education to preserve Jfrom 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., rain them for future generations. or shine. Advance tickets are Individual membership is $25 per year, $25 each and are available for day of the tour for $30 each Family/Dual memberships are $40 and purchase by calling or emailing at the Boston Center for the opportunities to support the Society Arts, 539 Tremont Street, or at various levels including Supporting Hope at (617) 536-4445 or ad- ($100), Patron ($150) and Benefactor min@southendhistoricalsociety. A.E. Rondeau Real Estate, 69 ($250) are also available. Appleton Street. Additional org or by visiting our website at The opinions expressed by the con- www.southendhistoricalsoci- opportunities for Sponsorship tributors to the newsletter are not are also available. necessarily those of the SEHS. Ideas for ety.org/programs.htm. Tickets stories and manuscripts are welcome. can also be purchased on the Unsolicited manuscripts submitted for possible publication and not used will be returned if they are accompanied Welcome to our newest Board Member by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Those interested in reprinting articles must obtain written permission from he Officers and Board of Directors recently the editor.

elected Kelly Robbins as fundraising director-at-large. The South End Historical Society Kelly has been a tireless volunteer on our two most impor- 532 Massachusetts Avenue, Boston, MA 02118 tant fundraisers — the Annual House Tour and the Spring Ball, (617) 536-4445 T www.southendhistoricalsociety.org serving as chair for the ball this year. Kelly is chief operating officer at CityState LLC. A South Ender since 2006, Kelly and her hus- Executive Director: Hope Shannon band Matt share their home with their dog Tulip. Kelly is an avid runner and is training for the New York City Marathon, which she Editor: Christopher Donohue will run in November. Design & Production: Emily Domurad and Paul L. Seier

Contributors: Stephen Jerome South End Historical Ronald Johns, Membership Chair Joan Hull, Curator Society Officers and Josh Liska, Preservation Director-at-large Board of Directors Cathy Marotta, Community Relations Chair John Neale, Historian Welcome to our Michael Leabman, President Paul Odelson, Meetings and New Members Maryellen Hassell, First Vice President Functions Chair Rob Kilgore, Second Vice President John Connelly Kelly Robbins, Fundraising Tim and Patricia Island Susan Park, Treasurer Director-at-large Thomas and Kristin Knox Anne Smart, Secretary Nancy Parker Wilson, Fundraising Chair Christopher and Kathryn Lee Paul Curtis, Director-at-large Paulette and Hilary Nolan Harvey Wolkoff, Counsel Christopher Donohue, Mark and Etta Rosen Elyse Swallow and Will Crumbley Communications Chair Tony Ursillo Pat and Steve Vinter The South End Historical Society Newsletter 

SEHS Annual Meeting Features William M. Bulger

he 44th Annual Meeting of the SEHS was held on June T10th at the Union United Methodist Church at 485 Columbus Avenue. Attend- ees were treated to a special talk given by William M. Bulger, former Massachusetts senate president and former chancellor of the Univer- sity of Massachusetts. With Mr. Bulger signs copies of his book for characteristic charm and SEHS members. self-deprecating humor, Mr. Bulger delighted the audi- ence with anecdotes of his encounters with former Bos- ton Mayor James Michael Curley that are featured in his book, James Michael Cur- Bookcover of James Michael Curley: ley: A Short Biography With A Short Biography With Personal Personal Reminiscences. Reminiscences. Cast Iron Questions?

eed help restor- ing, repairing or replacing your Ncast-iron fence? The South End Historical Society can help. Call or email the SEHS office at (617) 536-4445 or admin@southendhis- toricalsociety.org for more information.

Renaissance revival style  pcontinued from page 2 story contains a billiard room side, and the communication and three sleeping apartments. is cut off by a sliding window, The house contains eighteen which conforms with the others. rooms and about thirty closets. These rooms are finished richly, The exterior is built of face- but not gaudily. The cornice brick and freestone; the base- is full Corinthian, the doors ment is laid off in rustics, with are of a new pattern, designed panel faces; the buttresses to by the architect expressly for entrance are of scroll pattern; Mr. Rogers, and of solid black the doorway is circular headed walnut with silver mountings. with double, three-quarter The doors in the oval room are columns, with carved caps in made to conform to the circle; recess to door; the cap over the this story contains four closets door is supported by double pied, and the other three will be and hot and cold water and iron carved tresses, and above this is ready early in the spring. Much safe. The front staircase is built a perforated stone balcony; the credit is due to the architect of black walnut, and continues window caps are of stone; pedi- for introducing something new from basement to billiard room ment heads supported by carved and pleasing in the architectural in attic story, with one continu- tresses. The cornice is of wood, appearance of the fronts. The ous rail.The post, rail and balus- with carved truss, double dentils work has been done in the most ters are of a new pattern, de- and guilloche in frieze, sanded thorough manner, the best of signed expressly for this house, in imitation of stone. The roof is materials used, and that experi- and finished with rope mould- French, covered with imported enced builder, Mr. Ivory Bean, ings and rosettes; the black slate. The bay window projec- has done the mason’s work for walnut is all filled and finished tion, looking down the square, is the block, which is sufficient to with an extra dead polish. The of wood, ornamented with rope know that the work is well done. chamber story contains four pilasters and carved caps, with We understand that the two rooms; the two principal cham- rope over the same. The base houses adjoining Mr. Cumston’s bers are sixteen by eighteen feet, corresponds with the balcony will be for sale when finished. with large closets and water- and the cornice with that on the ———— works connected. The bathing house—all sanded. The front is While a certain amount of room connects with the fam- also ornamented with an iron hyperbole can be assumed in ily chamber, and is finished in verandah, the pattern being any newspaper article, the walnut with all latest improve- entirely new; the cornice cor- description of the house ments. The chamber over parlor responding with that of the bay appears to support surviving is fifteen by sixteen feet, and the window. This is a new feature evidence according to its ladies’ boudoir over the vestibule for houses in Boston, with bow- present day owner, David and hall is eight by fourteen fronts, and is decidedly taking. Hocker, who has painstakingly feet, with bay window facing The house adjoining was restored the principal rooms of the square and looking down built to order for William the house as much as possible towards Washington Street; this Cumston, Esquire, and is very to their original grandeur. room is finished in green and much like the one already de- Stephen Jerome gold, and commands one of the scribed. The block will consist Editor’s note: Be sure to visit finest views in the square. The of five houses; the fronts are to this wonderful home on the second chamber story is similar correspond in every particular House Tour and compare this to the first, and supplied with with Mr. Rogers’s house. Two 150-year- old account with all the conveniences. The upper are already finished and occu- what you see today. The South End Historical Society Newsletter  44th Annual Spring Ball 1972 Prints Now he sEHS Board of Directors Available and Executive Director Hope ictures from the Shannon would like to express South End Historical Ttheir heartfelt thanks to all those Society’s 1972 survey of who attended this year’s Annual Ball, all extant buildings are available with a special thanks to those gener- Pfor purchase. The images are ous private and corporate sponsors. digitized and available in jpeg We are particularly pleased to report format at 300 dpi. that this year the Spring Ball raised If you are interested in $5,000 more than last year’s event. purchasing an image or if you As one of the major revenue sources Mercedes Ridao and Jeff Malcholm (above) require another format or reso- for the SEHS, a successful annual ball and Jim Keeney and lution, please contact us at (617) Dorothy Keeney allows us to continue our mission to 536-4445 or email us at preserve the South End’s architectural (below) enjoy dancing at the Ball. admin@southendhistoricalsoci- legacy, collect and preserve histori- ety.org. cal materials and educate the public about its history.

181 West Brookline Street, a part of our 2010 House Tour, photographed in 1972 as part of the South End Streets Survey.

Setting the Space made our venue beautiful and joined us afterward for some drinks and dancing. U. S. Postage The South End Historical Society Non-Profit Org. 532 Massachusetts Avenue, Boston, Massachusetts 02118–1402 PAID PERMIT NO. 50197 Address Correction Requested BOSTON, MA

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