RESEARCH ARTICLE

Et h n o bi ol o g y a n d Conservation 2 0 1 9, 8: 5 ( 1 2 M arc h 2 0 1 9) doi:10.15451/ec2019 -0 3 -8. 0 5 -1 -2 2 ISS N 2238­4782 ethnobioconservation.co m “Cardos” of two worlds: Transfer and re­ si g nificati o n of t he uses of t histles fr o m t he I beria n Peninsula to Argentina

J. Esteban Hernández Ber mejo 1* , Gustavo Delucchi 2 , Gustavo Charra 2 , María Lelia Pochettino 2, 3 , J uli o Al b ert o H urr ell 2, 3*

ABSTRACT

“Thistles” constitute a group of prickly herbaceous plants included in tribe Cardueae ( Asteraceae), but in the popular sense that concept is frequently applied to other species of the sa me fa mily, as well as to so me Dipsacaceae, Bro meliaceae, Apiaceae or Cactaceae. Since antiquity, the cultivation and use of thistles for food and medicinal purposes have been well kno wn in the Mediterranean cultures. The different popular kno wledge could allo w us to refer to a “thistle culture”. During the exploration of A merica, many of those species and their associated kno wledge were transferred fro m the Old to the Ne w World. In Argentina, several s p e ci e s of t hi stl e s, e s p e ci all y Cynara cardunculus , spread extensively throughout the pa mpas. Fro m early ti mes, they constituted a source of food and lo w­quality fuel, and in several cases, they were also e mployed in popular medicine, with diverse uses, so me of which are still in practice. The local i mportance of so me species is mentioned in literature, arts, and gastrono my. In the 20th century, a large production of artichokes fro m introduced crops that increased local agro­diversity was recorded in Argentina. This contribution su m marizes so me aspects of the transfer and re­signification of the thistle fro m the Iberian Peninsula to Argentina.

Key words: " T hi stl e C ult ur e" ; Cynara cardunculus ; Botanical Kno wledge; Ethnobotany

1 Departa mento de Ingeniería Forestal, Universidad de Córdoba, España; Banco de Ger moplas ma Vegetal Andaluz, Córdoba, España.

2 Laboratorio de Etnobotánica y Botánica Aplicada (L E B A), Facultad de Ciencias Naturales y Museo, Universidad Nacional de L a Pl at a, Ar g e nti n a.

3 Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas, Argentina.

* Corresponding author.  E­ mail address: cr1hebee @uco.es, juliohurrell @g mail.co m

INTRODUCTION species of other genera of Asteraceae, like Scoly mus a n d Sonchus ( Cichorieae), and The ter m “thistles” refers to an extensive X a nt hi u m ( Heliantheae), as well as to group of prickly herbaceous plants included species of prickly plants of other botanical in the tribe Cardueae (Asteraceae) that f a mili e s li k e Dipsacus ( Dipsacaceae), generally display thorns on ste ms, leaves, Eryngiu m ( Apiaceae), Arge mone and involucral bracts. Nevertheless, the ter m ( Papaveraceae), Trichocereus ( Cactaceae), is also applied in the popular sense to O n o ni s (Fabaceae), and several

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A maranthaceae, Brassicaceae, traditions of that country as it is a B r o m eli a c e a e, and Zygophyllaceae. conspicuous constituent oflocalflora bothin Cardueaeincludes 73 genera and about th e wil d ( G uti érr e z 2 0 1 1; G uti érr e z et al. 2400 species, mainly of Mediterranean origin 2017) and as a culture( Del Rio et al. 2007). ( Delucchi and Gutiérrez 2014; Susanna and We have identified a process of “re­ Garcia­Jacas 2007, 2009). Al most 10 % of si g nifi c ati o n” of t h e u s e s of t h at s p e ci e s, i. e., t h e total Cardueae speciesis representedin changesinthe meaning ofthe uses of plants t h e Iberian Peninsula and about 130 species d u e to modifications in the context of their are ende mic, so me of the m with extinction uses in relation to ti me and space ( Hurrell risk ( Moreno et al. 2008). Many species 2014), including loss of knowledge of the naturalized in different world te mperate traditions oftheir origin (food usesinIberian zones, and various cases beca me weeds or Peninsula), a partial recovery of those invaders. I n Argentinian Flora, 10 genera wisdo ms due toi m migration ( Mediterranean with 24 species are recorded, just one of food traditions), and a possible local which is indigenous: Plectocephalus develop ment in Ar g e nti n a: t hi stl e s a s t w e e di ei (Hook. & Arn.) N. Garcia & Susanna alternative resources ( medicinal, fuel). The ( G uti érr e z et al. 2 0 1 4). i nt er e st of this research is reinforced by Si n c e a nti q uit y, t h e c ulti v ati o n a n d u s e of today’s expectations of cardoons and thistles for food and medicinal purposes artichokes (crops included in the genetic have been well known in Mediterranean h et er o g e n eit y of Cynara cardunculus ), w hi c h c ultures. The ense mble of different popular can be priority objectives of conte mporary k nowledge could allow us to consider a h orti c ult ure, bothin southern South A merica “thistle culture”. Fro m the western andinthe western Mediterranean. Mediterranean (especially the Iberian Peninsula)to A merica, a partialtransference of ger mplas m and associated kno wledge MATERIAL AND METHODS took place (Hernández Ber mejo and García Sánchez 1998, 2000). Several species We have applied the approach of arrived early in Argentina and were widely historical ethnobotany,including the study of dispersed over the pa mpa plains ( Gutiérrez docu ments fro m the past (considered as a n d D el u c c hi 2 0 1 1). At fir st, c ulti v at e d first­hand infor mants, according to Ochoa t hi st les were afood source;later, naturalized and Ladio 2011), and ethnobotanical thistles were used as e mergency food, techniques (like open­ended and se mi­ medicines, and/orlo w­quality fuel facing the structured intervie ws to gro wers and local shortage of woody plants( Correa et al. consu mers of thistles, participant 2003; Delucchi et al. 2002; Delucchi and observat ion of the related activities, and the Charra 2012). r e vi e w of current literature) to record In this contribution, we explore the present­day uses of thistles in different historical antecedents ofthe use ofthistlesin c ult ur al c o nt e xt s. T h e s a m e m ulti di s ci pli n ar y ancient Mediterranean cultures and co mpare approach used in previous studies for both t h at i nf or m ati o n wit h diff er e nt t e sti m o ni e s of t h e Iberian Peninsula and Argentina has their presence and usein Argentina, with a been applied for research on the past special reference to Cynara cardunculus L. , (Correa et al. 2003; Delucchi and Charra a species of a particularrelevancein diverse 2012; Delucchi et al. 2002; Hernández

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Ber mejo 1991; Hernández Ber mejo and co mple mented with botanical and García Sánchez 1998, 2000, 2015; et h n o b ot anical field work. Botanical work Hernández Ber mejo and León 1994; included voucher collections deposited in Hernández Ber mejo et al. 1991, 2009, 2013 recognized herbaria: Museo de La Plata a, b), based on revie wing historical (LP), Instituto de Botánica Dar winion (SI), docu ments fro m different archives, accounts I NTA­ Castelar (BAB), and identification by fr o m chroniclers, travelers and naturalists, means of morphological features. The correspondence, and also data obtained ethnobotanical research co mprised the fro m literature, arts, gastrono my, g at h eri n g of samples placed in LEBA et h n o bi ol o gi c al and biological evidences c oll e cti o n s ( L a Pl at a U ni v er sit y), ( s p e ci e s di st ri b uti o n, n at ur ali z ati o n w a y s, micrographic analyses toidentifyfrag mented do mestication and genetic processes). In material, photographic records, and fifty this context, the data provided by travelers open int ervie ws held with social actors in that visited the Argentinian pa mpas during urban, suburban, and rural areas. In total, the 16th and 17th centuries have been twenty five people of both sexes and particularly valuable as they describe local bet ween 25 and 70 years of age were landscape( Delucchi and Charra 2012). interviewed. In all cases the infor med The current docu mentation sources consent was obtained. The interviewees checked (all of the m published, and were select ed for their locally recognized presented i n bi bli o gr a p h y li st) i n cl u d e: k nowledge about the uses of thistles, in s c i e ntifi c r e p ort s of di v er s e di s ci pli n e s, accordance with qualitative methods and ethnographic and anthropological techniques currently e mployed in c ontributions, popular knowledge ethnobiology( Albuquerque et al. 2014). inventories, texts on phar macobotany, agriculture, food plants and popular RESULTS AND DISCUSSION m e di ci n e, r e p ort s of s ci e ntifi c e x p e diti o n s, and regional flora published by various "Cardos" in the historical authors, official docu ments, ne wspaper docu mentation of the western arti cl e s and advertise ments. The search was Mediterranean made f ollo wing references to thistles or well described thorny species, as well as In Mediterranean cultures, the cultivation geographical descriptions. Several and use of “cardos” for food and medicine docu ment s available mention“cardos”, being w er e w ell known and have been their authors of diverse origin and nature: docu mented in many references since chroniclers, travelers, navigators, traders, a nti q uit y. Some species have food or s ol di er s, f u n cti o n ari e s, a n d s ci e nti st s industrial uses, and several are e mployedin ( Correa et al. 2 0 0 3; D el u c c hi et al. 2 0 0 2; popular medicine due to the presence of Delucchi and Charra 2012). Herbaria active co mpounds such as sesquiterpene s peci mens and data fro m theirlabels were l a ct o n e s, al k al oi d s, a n d bitt er pri n ci pl e s also revised. In particular, for the concepts ( Al o n s o 2004). Nevertheless, thistles have r el at e d to naturalization processes we have beco me invasive or weeds in the world follo wedthe contribution of Richardson et al. te mperate zones. Consequently, they are ( 2 0 0 0). relevantfor people not only as useful plants Reviewing tasks have been b ut al s o duetotheir negative aspects.

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(fl a v ori n g sauce made of fish entrails), oil 1. A n ci e nt hi st or y and chopped boiled eggs; b) thistles with crushed rue, coriander leaves, mint and Theophrastus (ca. 371­287 B C)includes fe n n el, pepper, wild celery, honey, and oil; c) i n hi s De historia plantaru m [ca. 350­287 B C] t hi stl e s b oil e d wit h mi nt, c u mi n, g ar o a n d oil (‘Enquiry into Plants’) at least 15 species ( Pastor Artigues 1987). under the Greek ter m k a kt oi (‘ c a ct u s’ i n Colu mella (4­70 A D), sho wsinterest only Latin). The ter m “cactus” would change its i n t wo cultivated species: Cynara meaning with Linnaeus and was applied to cardunculus , praisingits use to curdle milk, species of genus C a ct u s ( Cactaceae), wit h a n d Cartha mus tinctorius . Nevertheless, in thorns ( modified leaves) and fleshy ste ms. De re r u sti c a [42 A D] (‘The Agriculture’) the This author recorded a mong the m: C arli n a a ut h or dedicates a poe mtothistles,in which a c a uli s L., C. cory mbosa L., C. g u m mif er a he displays his kno wledge of these plants ( L.) L e s s., Cartha mus tinctorius L., Cir si u m diversity, referring to their morphology and arvense ( L.) S c o p., Cynara cardunculus characteristics( Colu mela 1988). [ more doubtful C. cardunculus s u b s p. Pli n y the Elder (23­79 AD) mentions at scoly mus ( L. ) H e gi] a n d Silybu m marianu m least 15 speciesin his N at ur ali s hi st ori a [c a. (L.) Gaertn.(Teofrasto 1988). 7 7] (‘ N at ur al Hi st or y’), s o m e of t h e m diffi c ult The Greek Dioscorides (ca. 40­90 BC) to identify, such as C arli n a a c a uli s, C. c ited about 20 species of thistlesin his D e gu m mifera, Cartha mus tinctorius, Centaurea materia medica [ca. 65 BC] (‘ On Medical benedicta, Cynara cardunculus, Echinops M at eri al’), a m o n g t h e m: Arctiu m lappa L. ritro, Onopordu m s p., Picno mo m acarna ( L. ) (ar ki o n , “la mpazo”), Carduus pycnocephalus C a s s., Silybu m marianu m, Sonchus asper (“c ar d o de calvero”), C. t e n uifl or u s C urti s ( Pli ni o 1 9 9 9). (“cardo co mún”), C arli n a a c a uli s, C. The Ro man agrono mist Palladius (4th gu m mifera, Cartha mus tinctorius, Centaurea century), whose life is little kno wn, wrote aspera L., C. b e n e di ct a (L.) L. (“cardo Opus agriculturae (‘ B ook on agriculture’),a b e n dit o”), C. c al citr a p a L., C. cyanus L., work fro mlate antiquity that has maintained Cynara cardunculus (dubiously C. itsi mpact on European agriculture until the cardunculus s u b s p. scoly mus ), Dipsacus 14th century. There he cites Cynara f ull o n u m L. (dipsakos ), Echinops ritro L. c ardunculus (Paladio 1990), and this (probably under the na me c o c o drili u m ), reference was recuperated by Alonso de Eryngiu m vulgare L a m. ( eryngion , “cardo Herrerainthe 16th century. c orr e d or”), Onopordu m s p. (“cardo bravío”), Scoly mus maculatus L. ( s k ol y m o s, 2. Middle Ages “ c ar dill o”), Sil y b u m marianu m (“c ar d o mariano” o “cardo lechero”) and Sonchus Cassianus Bassus, “the Byzantine” (4th as p er ( L.) Hill ( sónkhostrakhýs , “cerraja”) c e nt ury), makes a single reference in the ( F o nt Quer 1961). Geoponica t o Ar cti u m lappa , whose s moke The Ro man gastrono mist Apicius (ca. 25 repel plagues, probably alluding to vine B C­37 A D), considered the author of De re p e st s (Baso 1998). Unfortunately, the coquinaria (‘ T h e Ro man cookery book’), an Spanish translations available are dubious i mportant source of knowledge of ancient asin so me cases they mention species of Ro man cuisine, records three recipes X a nt hi u m of A m eri c a n ori gi n. c o nt ai ni n g t hi stl e s: a) t hi stl e s wit h g ar o

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The VisigothIsidoro de Sevilla (556­636), of breaking plo ws ( Ab ū l­Jayr 2004). As for i n hi s Et y m ol o gi a e [c a. 6 3 0] (‘ T h e Carlina gu m mifera , called “liga” (gu m),it was Ety mologies’) mentions an aro matic and used to capture birds. It was na med “al­ medicinal “centaurea”, but it probably refers b at a b a” by peasants and also, “taparairola” t o Arctiu m lappa , na med “la mpazo” by the in Toledo, wherethe na meis still currentin tr a n sl at or. He also mentions Cynara National Park of Cabañeros, applied to a cardunculus , identified fro m a na me certain unidentified plant usedlocallyto hunt tr a n sl at ed as “cardo” (Isidoro de Sevilla birds ( V er d e et al. 2 0 0 0). 1 9 8 2). The physician and philosopher T h e following authors can be selected Mai monides (1138­1204) refers to the red from about twenty outstanding “fl o w er s” of Cartha mus tinctorius used in representatives of Isla mic culture in the Cairo as a yellow dye (added to henna) I b eri a n Peninsula ( al- Andalus ).Ibn Bassal(† under the na me “usfur”. In addition, it was 1085), Toledan agrono mist, author of Dī w ā n used medicinally: as a car minative,laxative, al-fil ā h a (‘The Court of Agriculture’) and aphrodisiac (Lev and A mar 2008). There (Hernández Ber mejo and García Sánchez is a confusing reference to “espino blanco” 1998) mentions the “cárta mo” ( Cartha mus (‘ white ha wthorn’) that the translatorlinks to ti n ct ori u s ) and provides details about its several “cardos”, like Picno mon acarna a n d cultivation, its use for dyeing and as a Onopordu m acanthiu m L. substitute for saffron. Besides, he A nother Sevillian agrono mist, Ibn al­ di st inguishes a wild “cárta mo” (possibly Awwa m (ca. 1160), author of the fa mous Cartha mus lanatus L. ). I n a d diti o n, t h e Kit ā b al- Fil ā a (‘The book of agriculture’), a ut h or al s o cit e s Cynara cardunculus , and recoversinfor mationfro m Ab ū l­Jayr, but he pr o vi d e s d at a a b o ut it s c ulti v ati o n, i n di c ati n g selects those species of major agricultural the difference bet ween the cultivated and i nt er e st : Centaurea benedicta, Cynara wildfor ms(Ibn Bassal 1995). cardunculus, C. cardunculus s u b s p. The Sevillian agrono mist Ab ū l­Jayr (11th scoly mus a n d Cartha mus ti n ct ori u s . I n century), the alleged author of Kit ā b u‘ U m d at reference to Silybu m marianu m he mentions al- a bī bfī m arif at al- n a b āt (‘ P h y si ci a n' s b a si c two “species”, one wild and the other book for the knowledge of botany for all cultivated, thatitis so wnin Septe mber and experts’),is the one most meticulousin the transplanted in Nove mber­Dece mber, mention of diverse species, taking into althoughthe cycle can be delayed, so wingit account that over 20 different species are in January andtransplantingin March. After i d e ntif iedin this work. So me of the m are: transplant ing,it has to be watered once a Ar cti u m s p., C arli n a a c a uli s , C. g u m mif er a, week, up to rooting. Finally, the author Cartha mus tinctorius (“ al az or”) a n d a wil d m e nti o n s the use of the thorns (“espinas”) “alazor” (perhaps C. l a n at u s ), Centaurea harvested in August, but he does not aspera, C. calcitrapa, Cirsiu mtuberosu m ( L.) mention its destiny ( García Sánchez 2009; A ll., Cynara cardunculus, C. cardunculus Ibn al­A w wa m 1988). s u b s p. s c oly mus, Dipsacus fullonu m, Ibn al­Baytar (ca. 1180­1248), physician Eryngiu m vulgare, Scoly mus s p., Sonchus and botanistfro m Malaga, who wrote Alj a mi’ a s p er, Silybu m marianu m a n d Onopordu m , li- mufradat al-ad wiya wa’l-aghdhiya [ c a. a b o ut which he says that they are wild 1235] (‘Co mpendiu m of si mple drugs and “cardos” with deep and strongroots capable food’), recovers diverse authors, mainly

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c lassical Greek and Roman ones, and Ibn Razin al­Tugibi (ca. 1227­1293), a includes pl a nt descriptions that enable their native of Murcia and exiled to Ceuta at 20 i d e ntifi c ati o n. H e m e nti o n s t h e ar kti o n years of age, was the author of diverse (Ar cti u m sp.) plant with a s weet,tender, and works of which onlythetitles havere mained. w hit e roots, and fruits like cu min. Fruit and He also wrote an interesting cook book: root dec oction relievestoothache, and heals F e d al at Al- J i wan fi tayyibat al-ta'a m wa-l- wounds, and skin cracks caused bythe cold. al w a n [ c a. 1 2 4 0] (‘ Hi g hli g ht s of t h e t a bl e, o n It is consu med as a wine for sciatica and delicacies and ste ws’), which has only partly dysuria. About Cartha mus tinctorius he says survived. A mong vegetables there are that it colors and aro matizes foods and is m e nt ions of eggplants, gourds [ Lagenaria also medicinal. Prepared with vinegar it is s ic er ari a ( M oli n a) St a n dl.], “ al c a n erí a” used f or erysipelas and dropsy, anditis also (Cynara cardunculus v ar. altili s D C., C . car minative and aphrodisiac. He also warns cardunculus s u b s p. scoly mus ), wil d u s t hat its consu mption produces art ichokes ( maybe Silybu m marianu m or s o mnolence. This author recognized two Cynara cardunculus v ar. s yl v e stri s L a m. ), Cynara , one cultivated and the other wild, “cardillo” (perhaps Scoly mus sp.), broad but does n ot m a k e a cl e ar di sti n cti o n beans,fenugreek, spinach, purslane,lettuce, bet ween thistles and artichokes. The c h ar d, cauliflo wer, asparagus, a mong others. m e nti o n of a t hi stl e wit h l e a v e s si mil ar t o U nf ort unately, only those recipes related to those of C arli n a a c a uli s , probably refers to eggplants and gourds are available (Ibn Echinops strigosus L., wit h a bl a c ki s h r o ot Razin al­ Tugibi 2007). and thorny capitula, used against scabies. A cook book possibly of andalusí origin, Ibn al­Baytar also addresses the thistle e ntit led ‘The Hispano­ Maghreb cuisine na med by Christians “toba” (belonging to during t he Al mohad period‘, was written in genus Onopordu m ), which are characterized Morocco by an anony mous 13th century as being highly invasive plants. He also author, and it co mpiles more than 500 professes a sound knowledge ofthe waysto recipes, so me of the m with artichokes in consu me Silybu m marianu m , wit h it s br o a d, ste ws with meat, chickpeas, chopped onion, large leaves of a si milar color to those of pepper and corianderleaves thickened with “ca maleón blanco” (Carlina gu m mifera ), bread cru mbs and eggs. There is also a which are consu med youngin salads with oil reference to a curious way of preparing and salt; the capitula are picked when “cardoon syrup”, grinding their petioles with i m mature, fresh and soft, to be consu med bitter al monds, wild carrots seed, aniseed roasted, while their seeds are consu med and “cuscuta”;this preparationisthen mixed fried as a snack with wine.In addition, other with three parts of the water in which the more elaborate recipes are included, such chickpeas have been steeped. This mixture asinthe case of a brothflavored withthese is cooked until it is reduced to half its seeds that were harvested by Hispanic­ v ol u m e, a n d t h e n m ari n at e d, filt er e d, Ar a bs and sold to young Christians under s weetened with another third part of sugar the na me of“okub”(the author does not say and honey andflavored with clove,lavender for what purpose). Minor medicinal uses are and “wild asaro” (possibly A r u m it ali c u m m e nti o n e d: gu m resin of old rootsfro m dry Mill.). Fi n all y, it i s b oil e d u ntil a s yr u p y plants was used as an e metic(Ibn al­Baytar thicknessis obtained, anditis al ways drunk 1 8 7 7). with hot water( Huici Miranda 2016).

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3. 16th and 17th centuriesin Spain Fl or a, initiated with works such as the u nfi ni s h e d Flora Española (‘ Spanish flora’) Alonso de Herrera (1470­1539) refers by Joseph Quer (1762­1764), Gó mez de e xt e n si v el y t o t h e c ulti v ati o n of Cynara Ortega (1784), and Gó mez de Ortega and c ardunculus i n hi s A gri c ult ur a g e n er al [ 1 5 1 3] Muñoz de Ugena (1791­1792), allowed the (‘Treatise on Agriculture’). The author nu mber of Iberian thistles to increase recognizes many kinds ofthistles, explaining significantly up to the current level of t h at he considers the cultivatedin orchards knowledge. However, atthe sa meti me,the that are called “arrecifes” in so me places nu mber of thistles mentioned in works on ( Herrera 1818). agriculture, and even on phar maceutical The Fle mish horticulturist Charles de b ot a n y , decreased. l’Écluse, kno wn as Carolus Clusius (1525­ Esteban Boutelou (1776­1813) and his 1609), wrote Rarioru m aliquot stirpiu m per brother Claudio (1774­1842) authors of Hispanias observatoru m historia [ 1 5 7 6] Tratado de la Huerta (‘ Tr e ati s e of t h e (‘ Hi st ory of the rare species observed in orchard’), mention t wo species: “cardo de S p ai n and Portugal). Even when not all España” (‘ S p a ni s h t hi stl e’, Cynara species of genus Centaurea can be cardunculus ) and “cardo espinoso” (‘thorny considered as thistles, a mong the nu mber t hi st le’) with large, hard spines (probably h e cit es is C. or n at a W ill d., a n ati v e of Dipsacusfullonu m ).Inthefirst case, petioles Iberian Flora and grown by Belgians as an and leaves are eaten after being cured orna mental plant. He also mentions C arli n a ( maybe with vinegar) and cooked. They are cory mbosa L., Cartha mus caeruleus L. [ = also used as horse fodder and are Carduncellus coeruleus ( L.) C. Pr e sl], considered to be a healthy food (Boutelou Picno mon acarna, Scoly mus hispanicus, S. and B outelou 1801). m a c ul at u s , and Silybu m marianu m Cl u si o Miguel Col meiro (1816­1901), in his ( 2 0 0 5). Enu meración y revisión delas plantas dela Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (1547­ Península Hispano-Lusitana éIslas Baleares 1616), author of the i m mortal El ingenioso (‘Enu meration and revision of the plants hidalgo Don Quijote de La Mancha [ 1 6 0 5] Hispano­Lusitanian Peninsula and the (‘TheIngenious Noble man Sir Quixote of La B al e ari c Islands’), su m marized the Mancha’), showed a sound knowledge of infor mation on Iberian thistles. He cited pl a nt s as about 150 species can be counted about 40 Asteraceae especies of Ar cti u m, i n hi s works, 100 of the m present in the Atr a ct yli s, C ar d u u s, C arli n a, C yr si u m, Q uij ot e . Nevertheless, only once are two Centaurea, Cynara, Echinops, Onopordu m, t hi st les mentioned, Scoly mus hispanicus L.: Picno mon, Scoly mus, Silybu m, Xanthiu m, “ my sto machis not madeforthistles, or wild a mong others( Col meiro 1885). pears, or roots of the woods”, and Ar cti u m The phar macist Pardo Sastrón (1822­ sp.: “He pulled so me green leaves fro m 1909) explains, in his Catálogo o burdock and ivy”( Morales Valverde 2006). enu meración delas plantas de Torrecilla de Alcañiz, así espontáneas co mo cultivadas 4. 18th, 19th and 20th centuriesin Spain (‘ Catalogue of the plants of Torrecilla de Alcañiz, both spontaneous and cultivated’), The ongoing advances achieved during thatinthe areainthetitle,locatedin Teruel these centuriesin the kno wledge of Iberian province, Aragón, both Cynara cardunculus

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a n d C. cardunculus s u b s p. s c ol y m u s ar e resources in seed banks, inventories of cultivated and gro w spontaneously in tr a dit ional knowledge associated with gardens. A boutthefor mer, he saysthatthe bi o di v er sit y, a n d t h e st u d y of hi st ori c al petioles and middle vein oftheleaves should docu ments on their manage ment in past be eaten, and that the flowers curdle milk cultures ( Gálvez Ra mírez and Hernández ( Pardo Sastrón 1895). Ber mejo 1986, 1990; Hernández Ber mejo Dantín Cereceda (1881­1963), in his 1991; Hernández Ber mejo et al.1991, 2009, Catálogo metódico delas plantas cultivadas 2013 a,b; Hernández Ber mejo and García en España (‘ Methodical catalogue of the Sánchez 1998, 2015; Pardo de Santayana plants cultivated in Spain’), included only et al. 2014). That expertise has enabled us t hr e e t hi stl e s: Cynara cardunculus , C. to record the traditional uses in the Iberian cardunculus s u b s p. scoly mus a n d Scoly mus P e ni n s ul a of about 90 taxa of thistles hi s p a ni c u s ( Dantín Cereceda 1943). belongingto Asteraceae. So me ofthe m are F o nt Quer (1888­1964), in his Pl a nt a s i mportant, well­kno wn food crops ( Cynara medicinales: el Dioscórides renovado cardunculus , C. cardunculus s u b s p. (‘ M e di ci n al pl a nt s, t h e r e n o v at e d scoly mus , Cartha mus ti n ct ori u s ). Others are Dioscorides’), cites around 20 species of of a marginal agricultural interest or are m e di ci n al t histles, 12 ofthe m are Cardueae, neglected crops ( Silybu m marianu m, Carlina of the genera Ar cti u m, C arli n a, C art h a m u s, gu m mifera, Scoly mus hispanicus, S. Centaurea, Cynara, Echinops, Mantisalca m a c ul at u s ), along with genera with species a n d Sil y b u m . I n a d diti o n, h e m e nti o n s c ultivated as orna mental plants ( Carduus, “cardillos” and “cadillos” of the genera Centaurea, Cirsiu m, Echinops, Onopordu m ) Centaurea, Sonchus , and Lactuca , and also or for the phar maceutical industry ( Ar cti u m, the A merican X a nt hi u m , and a single S err at ul a, Sil y b u m ). T h eir et h n o b ot a ni c al s p e ci e s of Scoly mus . Although not belonging interestis duetothe highly diverse uses of t o the Asteraceae fa mily, the set is the species: food, dyeing, cos metics, oil, co mpleted by Dipsacus a n d Eryngiu m wit h honey product ion, fodder, handcrafts, magic 4­ 5 species. At least 8 of these medicinal and psychoact ive plants, and especially for species are also used as food, particularly: t h eir m e di ci n al u s e s: a nti bi oti c, w o u n d Cynara cardunculus , C. cardunculus s u b s p. h e ali n g, di ur eti c, f e brif u g e, p ur g ati v e, scoly mus, Silybu m marianu m, Scoly mus hepatoprotective, cholesterol­lo wering, hi s p a ni c u s a n d Cartha mus tinctorius ( F o nt hypoglyce mic, a nti­ h e m orr h oi d al, Quer 1961). a nt ir h e u m ati c, a nti­i nfl a m m at or y, a nti o xi d a nt.

5. Thistle species of current et h n o b ot a ni c al i nt er e st in Spain " Cardos" in the historical docu mentation of southern South A merica At present,thereis great expertiseinthe western Mediterraneanin the recording and T h e arrival of the Spanish in South conservation ofthistle ger mplas m, especially A merica dates fro m the first quarter of the of t he Cardueae.Inthelast 30 years diverse 16th century. The first voyages explored ex situ conservation projects have been litt oral areas of the Río de la Plata and developed, addressing do mestication, Patagonia. Later,in the decades fro m 1520 agrodiversity manage ment, phytogenetic to 1540,thefirst European settle mentstook

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pl a c e (for instance, the first foundation of publishedinItalianin 1524.Init he mentions B uenos Aires was in 1536). Nevertheless, the use of thistles as an e metic by the by 1541 andfor a period of 40 years,the patagones (native inhabitants of Patagonia) region was abandoned although the first with who m they ca mein contact (Pigafetta colonistsleft behind cattle and horses. When 1 9 8 6). t h e Spanish returned (ca. 1580, date of The navigator and explorer of Portuguese Buenos Aires’s second foundation), they origin Si món de Alcazaba y Soto mayor perceived t hat the region was invaded by (1470­1535) visited the Patagonian coasts. feral cattle and horses, whosetra mpling and T h e results ofthe expedition were writtenin grazing modified local plant co m munities 1935in two reports or Relaciones , one by andfavoredthe entry of exotic speciesthat, the crew man Juan de Mori, the other by throughout the follo wing centuries, spread Alonso, the King's notary (Benites 2013; over the central region of Argentina. These Mori 1941). The thistles i mportance as exotic plants are of relevance due to their e mergency food for the explorers is weedy character, those outstanding being hi g hli g ht e d. “cardos” and “abrepuños”. Various available Jeróni mo de Vivar (16th century) referred docu ments mention the m (Correa et al. t o introduced plants, a mong the m “cardos”, 2003; Delucchi et al. 2002; Delucchi and i n hi s Crónica yrelación copiosa y verdadera Charra 2012). delosreinos de Chile [1558] (‘ Chronicle and abundant and true relation of the kingdo ms 1. 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. of C hil e’) ( Vi v ar 2 0 0 1). Chroniclers oftheIndies The Ger mantraveler and chronicler Ulrich Sch midl(1510­1581) arrived atthe Río dela In the texts of this period, two Platain 1536 as a me mber ofthe expedition funda mental aspects can be observed: the of Pedro de Mendoza, and he re mained i ntr o d u ct ion of the species known as nearly 20 yearsin the area, as well asin “cardos”in Europe, along withthe spreading northeastern Argentina and Paraguay.In his of t he word “cardo” and its application to Verídica descripción de varias navegaciones A merican n ati v e pl a nt s p e ci e s wit h si mil ar como también de muchas partes features. This was a veryfrequent procedure desconocidas,islas, reinos y ciudades (‘ Tr u e a mongthe Spanish who arrivedinthe New description of several navigations and of World and deno minatedlocal plants withthe unkno wn islands, ki n g d o m s a n d citi e s’) of na mes of plants oftheirland of origin, based 1567, Sch midl cites the “cardos” that were on their si milarities. Early references to the p art of his rationsin Buenos Aires (Sch midl plants known as “cardos”in Spain point to 2 0 0 9). both vegetables, previously absent in Alonso González de Nájera (1556­1614), A m eri c a, and weeds,that could occasionally a Spanish soldier participatinginthe‘ Arauco be used as e mergency food, medicine or war’, in Chile, who reported the use of f u el. thistles as e mergencyfoodin his Desengaño A ntonio Pigafetta (1480­1534) joined the y Reparo dela Guerra del Reino de Chile expedition of Fernando de Magallanes and [1614] (‘ Disappoint ment and Reparation of Juan Sebastián Elcano (1519­1522) and the War ofthe Kingdo m of Chile’)( González wr ot e Pri m er viaje alrededor del globo de Nájera 1 8 8 9). (‘ Magellan's Voyage aroundthe World’),first The Chilean Jesuit Alonso de Ovalle

9 Ber mejo et al. 2019.“ Cardos” oft wo worlds: Transfer andre­signification ofthe uses ofthistlesfro mtheIberian Peninsulato A r g e nt i n a Ethnobio Conserv 8:5

(1603­1651), in his Hi st óri c a r el a ci ó n d el missionto Río del Saucein 1748’)the Jesuit Reyno de Chile [ 1 6 4 6] (‘ A n hi st ori c al r el ati o n José Cardiel (1704­1782), talking about the of t h e k ingdo m of Chile’), referstothistles as r e d u ct ion of Volcán, near Mar del Plata, a garden crop introduced by the Spanish Buenos Aires province, mentions the ( Ovalle 1646). shortage of fire wood and the possibility of Sincethe second half ofthe 17th century m a ki n g it a v ail a bl e b y s o wi n g wil d t hi stl e s t h e ideathat “cardos” and “cardales” (thistles ( Cardiel 1930). populations) were constitutive ele ments of the pampas landscape had been 2. 1 9t h, 2 0t h, 2 1 st c e nt uri e s. N at ur ali st s established. For instance, in the co m ments in Argentina of the French engineer Barthéle my de Massiac (1626­1700), who visited Buenos In this period, theidea that thistles were Aires city bet ween 1660 and 1662, and back natives of the pa mpas was reinforced. For i n E urope published his Mé moires , signed by instance, the quotes of British dealers John his brother Pierre ( Molina 1955; Sal mon Parish Robertson (1792­1843) and Willia m 1984). José Cipriano de Herrera y Loizaga P ari s h Robertson (1794­ca. 1850) can be (1695­1736) makes si milar referencesin his mentioned. They referredtothe existence of Vi aj e s de España a Buenos Aires, Córdova, huge “cardales” on the road connecting the Mendoza, Potosí, Chilei Li ma enlos años cities of Buenos Aires and Santa Fe (Parish 1713i 1717 (‘Travelsfro m Spainto Buenos Robertson and Parish Robertson 1988). Aires, Cordova, Mendoza, Posotí, Chile, and Charles Dar win (1809­1882) writesin his Li m a i n 1713 and 1717’) ( Herrera y Loizaga The narrative ofthe voyages of H. M. Ships 1 7 8 5). Adventure and Beagle. Journal andre marks. In addition,inthese and otherreferences, 1832-1836: “ Nearthe Guardia[near Buenos the use ofthistles asfuelis mentioned, e.g. Aires] we find the southern li mits of two t h e testi mony of one anony mous French European plants, no w beco me excessively traveler and that of the Jesuit Michelle c o m mon. The fennel in great profusion Herreinin aletter fro m 1723 sent to Franz coversthe ditch banksinthe neighbourhood Molinder, Prior of the Austrian Province of of B uenos Ayres, Monte Video, and other t h e Society of Jesus (Rípodas Ardanaz t o w n s. But the cardoon ( Cynara 2002). Si milar mentions are made by Father cardunculus ) has afar widerrange:it occurs Pedro Lozano(1697­1752),in his Hi st ori a d e i n t hese latitudes on both sides of the la conquista del Paraguay, Río dela Plata y Cordillera, across the continent. I sa w it in Tucu mán [1745] (‘ History of the conquest of unfrequented spotsin Chile, Entre Rios, and Paraguay , Río dela Plata, and Tucu mán’) Banda Oriental ( …) I doubt whether any (La mas 1873), and by Alonso Carrió dela caseis onrecord, of aninvasion on so grand Vandera (1715­1783), known as a s c al e of one plant overthe aborigines. AsI Concolorcorvo , in his work L a z arill o d e have already said, I nowhere saw the ci e g o s y ca minantes desde Buenos Aires cardoon south of the Salado ( …)” (Darwin h a st a Li m a [1775] (‘The guide for blind 1 8 3 9). walkersfro m Buenos Airesto Li ma’) ( Carrió A mong others, both Alcide D’ Orbigny dela Vandera 1997). (1802­1857) in his Viaje a la A mérica I n hi s Di ari o d el vi aj e y mi si ó n al Rí o d el M eri di o n al [1826] (‘Travelto South A merica’) Sauce realizado en 1748 (‘Travel diary and (D’ Orbigny 1945), and Willia m Mac Cann:

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U n vi aj e a c aballo por las provincias medicinal use of thistles contrasts with the argentinas [1 8 4 7] (‘Two Thousand Miles' absence of mentions aboutfood uses. One Ri d e T hrough The Argentine Provinces’) h y p ot h e si s is that their weedy nature ( Mac Cann 1985) refer to thistles. Their i mpacts negatively on their assess ment co m ments mostly address Cynara (Pochettino 2005), thus their relevance in cardunculus , under the name “cardo de di et r e m ai n s concealed as they are not C a st illa”. Nevertheless, Tho mas Woodbine positively valued as “edible weeds” Hinchliff (1825­1882),in his Vi aj e al Pl at a e n ( Rapoport et al. 2 0 0 9). 1861 [1863](‘South A merican Sketches; or a Visit to Rio Janeiro, The Organ Mountains, 3. "Thistles" and Cynara cardunculus in La Plata, andthe Parana’) also cites Sil y b u m Argentinian arts,literature andfolklore marianu m ( W o o d bi n e Hi n c hliff 1 9 5 5). Thefirst mention ofthetherapeutic use of In Argentinian folklore, thistles sy mbolize t hi st les as a group belongs to the 19th t h e wil d , because does not need cares and century in the pioneering work on grow by its own. As an exa mple, in the Ar g e nt inian popular medicine by Jorge M artí n Fi err o by José Hernández (1872): Hierony mus (1845­1921), Pl a nt a e “Andthey who co meinto aninheritance, will Diaphoricae. Florae Argentinae (‘ Di a p h or eti c fall into ruin anywhere. There's no way a plants. Argentinian Flora’) ( Hierony mus man can avoid what fate has decided on. 1882). This author includes C entaurea The thistle cannot help prick ing you asitis c al citr a p a, C. b e n e di ct a, C. m elit e n si s, made ofthorns”( Hernández 1967). Cartha mustinctorius, Cynara cardunculus, C Even nowthethistleis used as a source cardunculus s u b s p. scoly mus , of inspiration, such as in the case of the Plectocephalus t w e e di ei a n d Sil y b u m tango Ser minaflor de cardo (‘ T hi stl e fl o w er marianu m asthe species kno wn as“cardos”. girl’), of 1 9 9 0, wit h l yri c s b y A dri a n a T ur c h etti A mong their diverse uses, those related to and music by Javier González,in whichthe their bitter flavor and diseases like “side first verse is used as a synony m for the ache” or jaundice stand out,in accordance courage andresistance of wo men. withthe cholagogue properties of several of Diverselandscapes a n d pl a nt s (t hi stl e s i n these plants( Hurrell and Puentes 2013). these cases) were depicted by different Si n c e then, frequent references to the Ar g e nt inian and foreign painters during the use of different thistlesinlocal phytotherapy 19th and 20th centuries. In this context, we in Argentina have been made in diverse selectedthree representative exa mples. The contributions, fro m, for instance, Marzocca Ger man painter Johann Moritz Rugendas (1977) and Toursarkissian (1980). Several (1802­1858), kno wn as Mauricio Rugendas, s pecies have been addedtothose cited by valued in several Latin A merican countries Hierony mus: Carduus acanthoides L., C. f or his paintings oflandscapes, people and tenuiflorus, C. thoer meri W ei n m., Cir si u m pl a nt s. Prilidiano Pueyrredón (1823­1870), vulgare, Eryngiu m eburneu m D e c n e., E. an outstanding Argentinian painter and horridu m M al m e, E. pri sti s C h a m. & S c hlt dl., architect that carried out i mportant Lactuca serriola, Onopordu m acanthiu m, engineering works and beautification Sonchus asper, S. oleraceus ( L.) L., projectsin Buenos Aires city, as well as his Xanthiu m spinosu m ( Martínez­ Crovetto p ai nti n g s e ntitl e d Un alto en el ca mpo and 1968, 2012). These volu minous data of the Un alto en la pulpería. Juan Carlos

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Castagnino (1908­1972), Argentinian wit h both cultivated cardoon and artichoke, ar c hit e ct a n d arti s t, a mong whose works alt hough the latter two would soon be s tand out hisillustrationsinthe M artí n Fi err o separatedfro mthe wild cardoon( Raccuia et by José Hernández published by the al. 2 0 0 4). University of Buenos Aires. W ild cardoon is a robust plant with big, The silvers mith Juan Carlos Pallarols was s piny rosette­shaped leaves, and branched the personin charge ofthe manufacturing of inflorescences with thorny involucral scales. t h e Presidential batons fro m 1983 to 2015. D o m e sti c at ion was addressed to obtain Many of these ite ms have adorn ments on cultivatedless spinytaxa andfort wo useful their handles of 24 thistles, one for each purposes: a) to take advantage ofits veins province of Argentina, as well asthreethistle and f oliar bases oflo werleaves by means of buds representing the southern Atlantic earthingto bleachthe petiole,thus beco ming islands. This sy mbolis m supports the an edible organ store(cultivated cardoon), b) p o p ul ar deeply­rootedlocalidea that thistles t o take advantage of its capitula for food, ar e n at ives of Argentina. Ho wever,the use of p arti c ul arl y of the fleshy, spinelessinvolucral thistlesin silvers mithing may be of European scales (artichoke). inspiration. Forinstance,they werefound on Agrono my hi st ori a n s al o n g wit h b ot a ni st s Viking metal objects fro m the 8th to 12th and geneticists agree in considering the centuries, including “thistle flo wer brooches” species –taken as a whole– as both an fro m Ireland (Kelly 2007), and in Scotland, archaeophyte as well as an ancient cropin for the Scottish, the thistle is their national the western Mediterranean, and later in flower, a sy mbol of the tenacity of their other parts of the world, forinstance South nationalidentity( Green 2010). A m eri c a. Ho wever, authors differ on which of the t wo entities was do mesticated first, and Cynara cardunculus: particular whether the do mestication processes considerations occurredin Sicily duringthe Middle Ages or earlier, under the Isla mic Culture in North 1. Taxono my and do mestication Afri c a. I n t hi s s e n s e, G att o et al. ( 2 0 1 3), Pignone and Sonnante (2004), Sonnante et Cynara cardunculus L.is a species with a al. (2007) think that artichoke do mestication controversial taxono my ( Gutiérrez 2011; took place at aboutthe beginning ofthefirst G utiérrez and Sonnante 2014); even when, mill e n ni u m, p o s si bl y i n Si cil y, a n d w a s l at er at present,itis usually consideredtoinclude spread bythe Arabs duringthe Middle Ages. three taxa: a) wild cardoon, C. cardunculus O n the other hand, cultivated cardoon could v ar . s yl v e stri s ( L a m. ) Fi ori ( = C. s yl v e stri s have been do mesticated in the first half of L a m.), a native ofthe eastern Mediterranean the second millenniu m in the western and recognized as the wild ancestor of the Mediterranean. This hypothesisis based on othert wotaxa, do mesticatedinthe western b ot h molecular data originating fro m studies Mediterranean; b) cultivated cardoon, C. perfor med on individuals obtained fro m c ardunculus v ar. altili s D C., frequently diverse ger mplas m banks and collections, naturalized in zones outside its origin area; and on historical docu ments produced by c) artichoke, C. cardunculus s u b s p. n at ur ali st s and agrono mists of Greco­ Ro man scoly mus ( L. ) Hegi (= C. scoly mus L.). Wil d a nti q uit y (Theophrastus, Pliny, Colu mella). cardoonis totally co mpatible andinter­fertile Not with standing, they do not take into

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c onsideration the contributions of medieval t o consu me the m, as well as in salads a n d al u sí a gri c ult ur ali st s a n d ot h er s p e ci ali st s i n cl u di n g ot her ingredients (like ha m or ( p hil ol o gi st s, historians, agrono mists), who shri mps); served with al mond and olive oil studied that culture and its docu ments. On sauce; fried with cla ms or cod; in o melets; t hi s basis, Andrew M. Watson, the pi c kl e d; in ste ws; or in the more traditional agriculture historian most citedintheIsla mic “esparragado”, that is a stir­fry of bread or World, offers a different approach: flour, garlic, paprika and eggs. This recipeis a) The eastern Mediterranean origin of also used to prepare “tagarninas” the wild taxon, Cynara cardunculus v ar. (Scoly mus ) and other species ofthistlesin a s yl v e stri s , has been acc epted according to broad sense. In Aragon and Catalonia, so me the results of molecular analyses perfor med recipes have been found that use milk or by Gatto et al. (2013) and Sonante et al. even crea m to prepare bécha mel sauce, (2007). For this reason, wild populations of adding al monds, nuts,raisins, and pine nuts. C. cardunculus inthe western Mediterranean According to Pardo de Santayana et al. (including the Iberian Peninsula) and even (2014), the petioles (called pencas ) are the populations introduced into southern e at e n in different parts of Spain, raw in South A merica (although this has to be salads or cooked, fried or coated, with rice, confir med by means of molecular biology) do and in vegetable stews. To prepare the m n ot b el o n g to that type of species but to their foliar la minae are re moved, and their n at ur ali z e d C. cardunculus s u b s p. altili s ( Fi g. petioles cut and rubbed longitudinally with 1 a, b). s alt, or p e el e d t o t a k e off t h e w hiti s h, bitt er b) During the Ro man E mpire only C. epider mis. In Catalonia, the inflorescences cardunculus s u b s p. altili s was gro wn in the are used to curdle milk to prepare western Mediterranean and is at present ho me made cheese, highly appreciatedforits n at ur ali z e d inthat region. t a st e. c) C. cardunculus s u b s p. scoly mus , was InItaly, an alcoholic beverage used as an d o m e st icated and cultivated in medieval aperitif and digestive, na med “ Cynar”, has ti m e s andintheIsla mic World, maybeinthe been produced since 1953.Its consu mption Maghreb, fro m where it possibly entered and manufacture spread during the 20th Sicily earlier than into other territories such c enturyto other Mediterranean countries, as as, for instance, the Iberian Peninsula w ell a s to Latin A merica. In Argentina, for ( W at son 1998)(Fig.1 c). exa mple, it beca me a popular drink i m m e di at el y andis still produced as perthe 2. C ulti v at e d t hi stl e: c uli n ar y tr a diti o n s o n original Italian recipe. Although the for mula b ot h si d e s of t h e Atl a nti c re mains secret,itis well kno wnthatits main ingredientis artichoke, andit contains about In current Spanish cuisine, as it was a dozen different herbs (Ca mpari Group observed several ti m e s i n diff er e nt p art s of 2 0 1 9). the country and registered in published Many localities of the Pied mont region works(e.g. Pardo de Santayana et al. 2014), (north westernItaly) clai m bagna cauda to be the thistles are always boiled and then uniquetoit.Infactit originatedlong ago on preparedin various ways, all of the m using the Provence coast (South of France), with oli v e oil. The si mple seasoning of thistles t h e na me anchoïade that is co mposed of withthis oilis one ofthe most co m mon ways raw vegetables cut into sticks, what are

1 3 Ber mejo et al. 2019.“ Cardos” oft wo worlds: Transfer andre­signification ofthe uses ofthistlesfro mtheIberian Peninsulato A r g e nt i n a Ethnobio Conserv 8:5

s teepedin a sauce made of salty anchovies, i mportance li e s i n t h at, wit h bagna cauda , g arli c a n d olive oil. It is presu med that the vegetable side dish had arrived. Thus,it medieval merchants fro m Asti, a Pied mont is saidthatini m migrants’ gardens, cardoons city, encountered bagna cauda o n t h eir w er e gro wn practically only for their use in journeystothe zoneto stock up on salt and this dish. Ho wever, although bagna caudais anchovies, and then spread the dish to still widespread at present, cardoon n ort h w e st ern and southern Pied mont c onsu mption has decreased, having been (Leoncini 2016). The ancient Provençal displaced by other crops, and also byfoods recipe was adapted by Asti peasants to of a n a ni m al ori gi n. vegetablesthat were more co m mon asfood Consequently, cultivated thistles are in popular country co m munities. For along seldo m offered at greengrocer’s shops ti me, it conserved this popular nature, and ( Rapoport et al. 2003). Wildthistles are even was des pised by the upper­class, more rarely used, except for certain presu mably f or its invasive garlic flavor. individual cases, like a restaurant in the Therefore, this recipe does not appear depart ment of Magdalena (Buenos Aires before 1875 in Pied mont gastrono mic province), that serves diverse dishes t e st i monies, and was first described by prepared wit h “ weeds”, including thistle Roberto Sacchetti (1847­1881) in p eti ol e s, b ot h b oil e d a n d pi c kl e d. I n a d diti o n, accordance with the dish still currentin this at Co mahue University (Vied ma, Río Negro r e gi o n of It al y: a p a st e of a n c h o vi e s, g arli c province), different assays have been and olive oil madeinto a hot sauce placedin carried outto make cookies and pastry with t h e middle of the table andin which diners w h ol e pl a nt s of Cynara cardunculus v ar. could dip diverse vegetables (with the altili s (i n cl u di n g t heir spines), dehydrated, e x c e pti o n of aro matic ones, like celery or ground and mixed with wheat flour fennel), with “cardo gobbo” (hunchback ( Rapoport et al. 2009). Ho wever,it should be t hi st le) standing out a mong the m, a thistle noted that this taxon, as a weed, was fro m Niza Monferrato (appellation of origin) officially declared to be an agricultural pest ( Geraci 2017). in 1963 bythe Argentine govern ment, soits Pied monti m migrants arrivedin Argentina controlis mandatory( Rapoport et al. 2009). in 1860 and settledinthe so­called “Pa mpa Gringa”(provinces of Santa Fe and Córdoba 3. C ulti v at e d t hi stl e and artichoke and, to alesser extent,in Entre Ríos and inpresent-day Argentina Buenos Aires); there, they generated the largest milk catch ment in South A merica Cynara cardunculus v ar. altili s , is boththe ( Gori 1988). According to the state ments of wildthistle, kno wnin Argentina as “cardo de i m migrants' descendants, the abundance Castilla”, and the cultivated thistle (cardoon). and cheapness of crea m werethe cause of It is ofi mportance only as a regional crop the gradual replacement of the more currentlyin Europein several parts of Spain, expensive olive oil. For Pied mont peasants France and Italy ( Raccuia et al. 2004). In and t heir descendants, bagna cauda i s a Argentina, it is cultivated on a co m mercial winter food, sy mbolizing fraternity and scalein Buenos Aires province,in the area h a p pi n e s s it c o n stit ut e s a tr a diti o n deno minated L a Pl at a h orti c ult ur al b elt tr a n s mit ted fro m generation to generation, ( Pochettino et al. 2014) anditis usually sold and is even present in urban areas. Its r o otl e s s in packs of four plants. Its

1 4 Ber mejo et al. 2019.“ Cardos” oft wo worlds: Transfer andre­signification ofthe uses ofthistlesfro mtheIberian Peninsulato A r g e nt i n a Ethnobio Conserv 8:5

c onsu mptionisli mited anditis mainly eaten suitable for manufacturing. The present b y me mbers ofthe Pied mont co m munity and pr o d uct i o n is based on those cultivars by their descendants (Cravero 2007). As means of clonal propagation, and the m e nti o n e d above,its salein greengrocersin surface devoted to seed cultureis still very urban areasis sporadic. The varietal nature li mit e d (Larrazabal and García 2014). of c ult ivated materialis not kno wn with any certainty, butitincludes several cultivarslike 4. N at ur ali z e d t hi stl e a n d r e- si g nifi c ati o n ‘Cardo B lanco’, ‘Cardo Se mence’, and of it s us es ‘ Cardo Florensa’, although the t wo latter ones see mto betrade marks(Cravero et al. Asin other works above mentioned, the 2007; Espósito et al. 2011). In Spain, the eff e cti v e n e s s of a m ulti di s c iplinary vision in cultivarsinclude:‘ Blanco detours’,‘Lleno sin ethnobotanical research is de monstrated. pinchos de España’, ‘Blanco de ivoire’, The si multaneous use of docu mentary ‘ Ll e n o bl a n c o’, ‘Blanco mejorado’, ‘ Raza sources such as historical texts of very Bérga mo’, and ‘Verde iner me’ ( Maroto diff erent nature (agrono mic, botanical, 2 0 0 2). literary texts, narrations of fa mous travelers, A s f or Cynara cardunculus s u b s p. c uli n ar y tr e ati s e s, hi st ori c al ar c hi v e s) arti sti c scoly mus ,the artichoke,for alongti methis m a nif e st ati o n s ( p ai nti n g s, p ott er y, w a s cultivated in Argentina in an esti mated silvers mithing) and archaeological re mains area of about 4000 hectares. Ho wever, since has allo wed us to analyze the travel and 1 9 8 0, a si g nifi c a nt r e d u cti o n of t h e c ulti v at e d transfer ofthe rich " Mediterranean culture of area has taken place, due mainlytoitsloss thistles" to wards South A merica, identifying of pr of it a bilit y, alt h o u g h t hi s di mi n uti o n h a s p arti c ul ar processes such as the re­ not been reflected in its consu mption (2.6 si g nifi c ati o n of t h e u s e s of Cynara kg/person/year). At present, the cultivated cardunculus areais nearly 2000 hectares(Larrazabal and E ff e cti v el y, Cynara cardunculus v ar. altili s , García 2014). The major production areais h a s been earlyintroduced by Spanish and located onthe outskirts of La Plata (Buenos naturalized in southern South A merica, Aires province), representing 64 % of mainly in the pa mpas of Argentina and Ar g e nt inian production (Fig. 1 d). Other Uruguay, and alsoin central Chile ( Gutiérrez production zones include Santa Fe (14 %), et al. 2017). The expansion without hu man and Mendoza and San Juan provinces i nt er v e nt ion of these plants in the new (19 %) (Crav ero 2007).This cultivation is geographical context was very extensive, to based on t wo cultivars: ‘ Ñato’ (of uncertain the pointthat, as we discussed earlier,these origin and al most extinguished, but thistles were consideredlocally as a sy mbol recognized as own variety by producers of of t h e wil d .Inthisfra me work,the divergence L a P lata horticultural belt), and ‘Francés’ bet ween “native” and “exotic” plants, usualin ( which is in fact the ‘ Ro manesco' cultivar, bi ol o g y, differs fro m the established by the ori gi n ati n g in Lazio, central Italy, one of the local botanical kno wledge that distinguishes best kno wn cultivars, with purple capitula).In bet ween “cultivated” and “ wild” plants ( which ot h er areas of Argentina, those “white” gro w spont aneously, thus including both cultivars, derived fro m the Spanish cultivar native and naturalized ones in biological ‘ Blanco de Tudela’, prevailed, giving the ter ms). Si milar approaches have been used ‘ Cri oll o’ or ‘Blanco Argentina’,that was more i n A rgentina when studying,forinstance,fruit

1 5 Ber mejo et al. 2019.“ Cardos” oft wo worlds: Transfer andre­signification ofthe uses ofthistlesfro mtheIberian Peninsulato A r g e nt i n a Ethnobio Conserv 8:5

Fi g ur e 1. Cynara cardunculus s u b s p. altili s n at ur ali z e d in Córdoba, Andalucía, Spain(a) and bet ween Bahia Blanca and Olavarría, Buenos Aires, Argentina (b). Cynara cadunculus s u b s p. scoly mus c ult ivatedin Vélez­ Málaga, Andalucía, Spain(c), and near La Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina(a, b, c: b y E . Hernández Ber mejo; d: Néstor D. Bayón). treesin the northeast and north west of the so meti mesincludesthe adjust ment of so me c o u ntr y ( Hil g ert et al. 2 0 1 4), or i n r efl e cti n g u s e s of t h e ori gi n al bi o c ult ur al c o nt e xt (t h e o n the contribution of ethnobotany to the Iberian Peninsula) to the local biocultural study of the naturalization process ( Hurrell context ( Argentina); e.g., the culinary uses and Delucchi 2 0 1 3). m e nti o n e d above. Other ti mes, the re­ As Ga ma and collaborators say: significationincludesthe adjudication of ne w "Although many studies have atte mpted to uses (absent i n t h e ori gi n al bi o c ult ur al understand the co mplexity of relationships c ontext); e.g., the use of these plants as bet ween hu mans and their environ ments,it e mergency fuel, according to the local is still necessary to advance the needs. This case exe mplifiesthe concept of understanding of the hu man behavior biocultural adaptation, in ter ms of Ga ma et associated with these relationships" ( Ga ma al. ( 2 0 1 8). et al. 2018).Inthis context,thelocal uses of In regard to popular medicine, both in Cynara cardunculus v ar . altili s h av e Spain(Pardo de Santayana et al. 2014) and undergone processes of r e­ si g nifi c ati o n o v er in Argentina ( Hurrell and Puentes 2013),the ti me. The re­signification ( Hurrell 2014) follo wing medicinal uses are registered:

1 6 Ber mejo et al. 2019.“ Cardos” oft wo worlds: Transfer andre­signification ofthe uses ofthistlesfro mtheIberian Peninsulato A r g e nt i n a Ethnobio Conserv 8:5

depurative, hypotensive, digestive, e xt e n si v el y throughout the pa mpas and c holesterol­lo wering, hepatoprotective, constitutedfro mthose early mo ments a wild c h ol a g o g u e, c h ol er eti c, a n d a nti di a b eti c. resource to be employed as emergency M e di ci n al uses registered only in Spain: f o o d, as plants with therapeutic uses, so me a nti di arr h e al, a nti­ c o n sti p ati o n, ofthe m stillin use, as well as a source of antihe morrhagic, and vulnerary. Medicinal lo w­quality fuel, used to resolve the scarcity uses regist ered onlyin Argentina: appetizer, of woody plants. With this background a nti s p a s m o di c, a nt a ci d, di ur eti c, naturalized thistle expansion beca me a a nti n e p hrit i c, a ntilit hi c, a ntir h e u m ati c, sy mbolic ele ment of identity for pa mpas sli m ming, and aphrodisiac. In this fra me, i n h a bit ants, asis shownin co m mentsfro m so me traditional uses in Spain are travelers, as well asinthe works of painters, c onservedin Argentina, other medicinal uses silvers miths, and men ofletters. Even no w, in Spain arelostin Argentina, and other uses many local people consider the thistles as are novelin Argentinaregarding Spain. native plants which are typical of eachlocal sit u ati o n. CONCLUSIONS I n spite of what has been said above, since the 18th century the food culture of According to the historical docu ments t hi st les has been lost, including the fro m the western Mediterranean review, c onsu mption of Cynara cardunculus , nearly 20taxa constitutedthe “thistle culture” introduced by Spanishinto the New World. i n a nt iquity, i.e. those it was possible to In the particular case of Argentina and the identify in the texts. This level of bio­ and three intra­specific taxa of Cynara a gr o­ div ersity rose to at least 25 species c ardunculus ,it can be concludedthat: during the andalusí Middle Ages in the a) I t is not possible to confir m the Iberian Peninsula. Then, since the presence of Cynara cardunculus v ar. Renaissance and under the regi me of s yl v e stri s i n Argentina, and the naturalized Christian Iberian culture, the a mount fell to populations probably belong to C. less than 10 taxa. During the 15th century, c ardunculus v ar. altili s . the“thistle culture” wasto a great extentlost, b) In present­day Argentina, the alt h o u g h it has been kept alive uptotoday c ulti v ati o n of Cynara cardunculus v ar . altili s due t o t h e tr a diti o n al di s s e mi n ati o n of i s r e st ri ct e d, a b o v e all, t o f a mili e s of popularIberian wisdo ms. Thus, a heritage of descendants of Italian i m migrants. It was about 90 species of thistles of the possibly introduced with the first arrival of Asteraceae fa mily is accounted for in the Spanish duringthe 16th century, but, as conte mporary ethnobotanical studies. Bythe ti m e went by, it beca me a marginalized, 1 6t h century, these plants and their even neglect e d, cr o p, si m ult a n e o u sl y wit h it s associated kno wledge had been transferred n at ur ali z at ion. Forthisreason,itis assu med to southern South A merica, along with the that a second introduction took place in naturalization processes of those thistles about 1870 byItaliani m migrants. introduced b ot h v ol u nt aril y (t h e c ulti v at e d c) T h e c ulti v ati o n of Cynara cardunculus ones) or involuntarily ( weeds). s u b s p. scoly mus i n Argentina beganto wards Regarding t heir transfer to the territory of the end ofthe 19th century, mainly withthe whatis no w Argentina andtothelocal creole arrival of Italian and Spanish i m migrants, cultures, many thistle species spread w h o i nt roduced the first cultivars and

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adaptedtheirtraditional agricultural practices Alonso J (2004) Tratado de Fitofár macos y to local environ mental conditions. N utracé utic os. Corpus, Buenos Aires, Argentina Su m ming up, despite the above Baso C (1998) [4th century] Geopónica. I NI A, mentionedloss and asis evidenced bythe M a dri d, S p ai n present diversity of food kno wledge, a re­ Benites MJ (2013). “ Vi gili a s, f ati g a s y signification process can be observed, due p er e g rinaciones”: viaje, relato y desa mparo enlos confines deli mperio. Telar 11­12:80­97 t o the arrival of Spanish and Italian Boutelou C, Boutelou E (1801) Tratado de la i m mi gr a nt s. Tr a diti o n al c o o ki n g t h at i s still H u ert a. Vill al p a n d o, M a dri d, S p ai n kept upin rural areasin the center of the Ca mpari Group (2019) Cynar. The artichoke country validates this process, whose liqueur kno wn for its versatility and taste a n al y si s proves the great opportunities [https:// w w w.ca mparigroup.co m/en/brands/liqueu off ered by “cardos de Castilla” and rsothers/cynar?legal Radio=1#legalage] “alcauciles”, in local horticultural and food Accessed January 30th 2019 innovationin Argentina. Cardiel J (1930)[1748] Di ari o d el vi aj e y mi si ó n al Río del Sauce realizado en 1748. C o ni, Buenos Aires, Argentina ACKNO WLEDGMENTS Carrió dela Vandera A(1997)[1771]. El l a z arill o d e ciegos ca minantes. E mecé. Buenos Aires, This work has been carried out underthe Ar g e nti n a objectives progra m of the CultIVA­CYTED Clusio (2005) [1576] Descripción de algunas net work. We appreciate the collaboration of plantas raras encontradas en España y the entire tea m that of the CYTED P ort u g al. J u nt a d e C a still a y L e ó n, V all a d oli d, Secretariatto meetthe proposed objectives. S p ai n In particular and in relation to this C ol m eir o M (1885) Enu meración y revisión de contribution we wouldlike to thank also the las plantas dela Provincia Hispano­Lusitana éIslas Baleares. Fuentenbro, Madrid, Spain help and cooperation in the ad ministration tasks and co m munication a mong network Colu mela (1988) [42 A D] De los trabajos del c a m p o. Si gl o X XI, M a dri d, S p ai n me mbers of Paquita Tarifa (BGVA and Correa RF, Delucchi G, Charra G (2003) IMGEMA Jardín Botánico de Córdoba, E tnobotánica delos “cardos” enla Argentina. Spain) and Diana Badder's review of the D el pi n o a 4 5: 149­156 English version of this manuscript. Also, the Cravero V (2007) Incorporación de authors value the suggestions of the metodología no convencional en un plan de anony mous reviewers and especially mejora vegetal. Universidad Nacional de ackno wledge all those people who shared Rosario, Santa Fe, Argentina their ti me and wisdo m and consentin the Cravero V , Martín E, Cointry E (2007) Ge netic p u bli c ati o n. Diversity i n Cynara cardunculus deter mined by S R AP markers. Journal of The A merican Society f or Horticultural Science 132:208­212 REFERENCES D’ Orbigny A (1945) [1826] Viaje a la A mérica M eri di o n al II. Futuro, Buenos Aires, Argentina A b ū l­Jayr. (2004) [11th century] Kit ā bu‘ U mdat al­ a b ībf īma rifat al­nab ā t. C SI C, M a dri d, S p ai n Dantín Cereceda J (1943) Catálogo metódico delas plantas cultivadas en España. Mi ni st eri o Albuquerque UP, da Cunha LVFC, Lucena RFP, de Agricultura, Madrid, Spain Alves R R N (2014) Met h o ds and Techniquesin Ethnobiology and Ethnoecology. S pri n g er­ Hu mana Press , New York, USA

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Receive d: 29 Nove mber 2018 Accepted: 28 February 2019 P u blis he d: 12 March 2019

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