Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands

Naturetrek Tour Report 3 - 10 September 2013

Loch Sunart from Carna

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse from Sanna Bay

Where do I start? Pine Martin

Report & images compiled by John Willsher

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands

Tour Leaders: John Willsher Tom Mabbett

Participants: Flora Hoban Rose Seabrook David Seabrook Derek Campbell Ian Rose Katherine Rose Eve Ellis Tessa Abberley Caroline Northcott Ceinwen Lloyd

Summary

A very successful week, staying in a self contained accommodation centre, set in the forest at Glenborrodale, near the shore of Loch Sunart, half way along the Ardnamurchan Peninsular. Daily excursions by minibus allowed us to explore areas in all parts of the peninsular. We had a memorable boat trip across the loch to the island of Carna, then around it, on a beautiful morning. A day boat trip out of the loch and across to the Cairns of Coll was a most enjoyable trip which provided some seabird sightings and excellent views of resting seals. Alas, although we searched the area of sea where Basking Sharks and Minke Whales sometimes occur, none were seen on this occasion. We did however during the rest of the week have many sightings of Otter, Red Deer, White-tailed and Golden Eagles plus many other species of birds. The highlight of the week had to be the exceptionally close views of Pine Marten negotiating Tom's obstacle course, watched through our lounge window.

Day 1 Tuesday 3rd September

Glasgow - Glenborrodale It was a bright sunny afternoon when Tom and John met up with Flora, Eve, Tessa and Ceinwen at Glasgow station. It was then twenty minutes to the airport, where we soon had Derek and Caroline onboard. Luggage stowed, we set off northwards over the Erskine Bridge and on towards Loch Lomond. Travelling up the west side in the afternoon sun, the views were spectacular. We made good time to Tyndrum where we had drinks and rest. Then off and across Rannoch Moor and through the brooding Glen Coe to the Corran Ferry. We then headed southwest down Loch Linnhe and west through Glen Tarbert to the head of Loch Sunart at Strontian. From here it was on about another hour winding along the single track road, to our base at Glenborrodale. As we travelled, there were views through the trees across the loch, beautiful in the evening sunshine. Bags soon unpacked, we met up with Ian and Catherine who had already arrived by car, and later Rose and David, who also had travelled by car. Dinner was soon served which was an excellent meal, starting with home made pâté and oatcakes, with haddock as a main course, followed by berries and cream.

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

Day 2 Wednesday 4th September

Aperitif Point - Camas nan Geall - Kilchoan - Ardnamurchan Point - Portuairk The forecast had been for rain but we awoke to cloud with dry conditions, so some of us made an early start at 6:30am, making our way down to the lochside watch point known as Aperitif Point with its view of Glenborrodale Bay and across Loch Sunart. On the way down we noticed the forest floor of this Sessile Oak woodland was full of mosses and fungi. At the watch point we could see numerous Herons and a group of roosting Greenshanks waiting for low tide. A Red Deer and its young were spotted, and across the bay we watched for 20 minutes or more an Otter going about its fishing amongst the bladder wrack. It was then back up through the woods to the centre where the first of the regular substantial breakfasts awaited.

Breakfast done and packed lunches collected, we set off westwards to explore the peninsular. Making our first stop at a magnificent viewpoint, overlooking the bay of Camas nan Geall, we clocked up our first birds of the trip, Linnet, Corn Bunting, Redpoll, Meadow Pipit, Yellowhammer, Stonechat and Whitethroat. We read the informative noticeboard telling us about the mountain of Ben Hiant, in front of us, created more than 50 million years ago by violent volcanic activity. Moving on inland to get round the obstacle of Ben Hiant, whose southern cliffs plunge straight down into the sea, we stopped in a lay-by near Loch Mudle to check the holes in the bank for Sand Martins. No luck, the few seen last week had obviously left, now on their way south to their wintering areas in West Africa.

Our next sighting was a large immature White-tailed Eagle that we watched gliding over us. It then flew across the valley and settled on the ground where it was harried by numerous Ravens. We manoeuvred the van closer and all managed to get good 'scope views. We learnt later that it was actually sitting near a feeding station where deer butchering waste was placed regularly, an important food source for newly independent immature birds at this season. After a further stop to try and get a better view of a Hen Harrier our next port of call was Kilchoan where another Otter was watched feeding in the choppy water offshore. Oystercatchers were numerous along with Pied Wagtails, Goldfinches, a couple of Whitethroats and a pair, of maybe, the most westerly mainland Collared Doves!

Heading further west we passed through the most westerly mainland traffic lights to reach the lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point. We spent some time here exploring the lighthouse area looking out to sea for seabirds and the elusive Basking Shark and then we retired to the lighthouse cafe for welcome drinks. Later a short drive took us down to the beach at Portuairk where we ate our lunches overlooking the bay. We had a walk further out towards the headland where a Red-throated Diver was seen in the bay. Now unfortunately the rain was becoming heavier and so we headed back. A final walk through the woods at Glenborrodale down to Aperitif Point, no Otters this time but Ian collected more than twenty fungi species to be identified later.

A meal of cullen skink and chicken stuffed with haggis and served with mushroom sauce was a delicious end to a brilliant day and start of the countdown to the night's Pine Marten vigil. Areas of the yard outside the lounge window had been baited hoping to attract the local Pine Martens, however their/it's visits were quite unpredictable so it was a case of waiting and watching or go to bed and get up later for a quick look. Both strategies worked but more on that later…

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Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

Day 3 Thursday 5th September

Aperitif Point - boat trip to Carna - west Ardnamurchan and Swordle Bay We spent some time again before breakfast down at the Point. It was a still beautiful morning and the loch was flat calm. The tide was high but no Otter activity today. Back up the track we heard a snatch of Willow Warbler song, a common summer visitor to these woods but now almost all gone south. Further up a group of Crossbills were feeding at the top of a high Spruce covered in fresh cones.

After breakfast we made our way a few miles east to Laga where we met Andy the boatman who was our guide for a trip across the loch to the island of Carna. It was a still crossing and we soon arrived at the jetty where Andy pointed out to us the Otter spraints. The area around the undisturbed island and the northern shoreline of Loch Sunart, with its strong tidal flows, provide much food for the several resident Otters which we hoped to see. Andy took us on a bit of a trek to get to a high point overlooking the channel, there are very few people and domestic animals on the island so very few paths. It was a bit rough going but the view from the knoll was spectacular and we did see a couple of distant Otters. We experienced the Scottish Midge in profusion but it was a good test for our various deterrents! Up on the hill behind us two young Red Deer Stags stood watching us. When the midges got just a little too much, we made our way back towards the boat. A large flock of finches flew rapidly past calling, sounding very much like Twite.

Back on the boat we returned the long way round the island. As the tide was now lower we checked a muddy strand across Loch Teacuis to the south. Several species of wader were feeding avidly in the freshly exposed mud, including Ringed Plover, Redshank, Oystercatchers and a couple of Dunlin. Two more Otters were seen working along the shoreline, sometimes coming out onto the rocks. We stopped the boat and watched them for some time. On the loch a Goosander, Red-breasted Merganser, Red-throated Diver and an Eider duck, plus later a Porpoise, finished off an excellent round island trip.

Returning to the centre, we ate our lunch, had a drink then set off again westwards. Roadside birds included Whinchats and Stonechats and later, two Golden Eagles were spotted. At the end of the road, on the north side of the peninsular, we parked and walked down a small valley. It was warm sunshine and we walked past flower rich meadows left uncut because of their importance for breeding Corncrakes. The destination of our short walk was Swordle Bay, which had magnificent views, with blue sea, across to Eigg, Rhum, and in the distance, Skye. The rocks on the beach here were fascinating with old limestone overlaid with basalt. Numerous small birds were feeding in the fields near the beach, including Linnets, Goldfinches, Meadow Pipits and on the beach, Rock Pipits. On the sea a Great-northern Diver was fishing and a flock of Greylag Geese flew past while Tom and Derek flushed a Snipe. We walked back up to the van admiring on the way, a large house, superbly sited with views over the bay, empty today but available for rent from the Ardnamurchan estate. On our return we investigated a new private road leading up through moorland to the estate's new wind generator. All was a bit quiet however.

Back at the centre we ate another excellent meal and then prepared to wait for 'our' Pine Marten, this time at least, if we didn't see it we might get a record, as Andy the boatman had generously loaned us his camera trap. So Tom baited up the feeding zone outside the lounge window and set up the camera.

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

Day 4 Friday 6th September

Boat trip out of Loch Sunart and across to Cairns of Coll return via Tobermory

Evening wait at Nadurra for Pine Marten A still morning with mist over the loch, Tom's early morning walk turned up trumps today. His attention alerted by falling cones, he realised a group of Crossbills were feeding, what he didn't expect however was that one bird was different; it was showing its broad wing bars. A rarity from western Siberia, a Two-barred Crossbill! After the excitement of the Crossbill we had a quick look at the camera trap results. There were loads of pictures of a mouse eating the peanuts. but then photos of at least two different Pine Martens, possibly three, taken at around 4am and 6-6.30am. Great! Now we just had to stay up to see them…

The weather looked good when we arrived at Laga at the jetty for the boat trip out of the loch and across to the island of Coll. We set off down the loch in calm conditions with boatman Tom and his dog Dexter. A couple of Common Porpoise and then a group of three Porpoise together showed well near the boat, plus a busy Otter near the headland where the loch narrowed. There were Common Seals and some Guillemots on the calm water of the loch but as we reached the open sea there was a brisk breeze from the north-west. This did mean we had a fantastic view in the clear conditions of the islands of Muck, Rhum and in the distance Canna and Skye, but conditions were a bit choppy. When we reached the archipelago of small islets at the north end of Coll we found shelter, calmer water and a Black Guillemot. We slowly cruised in amongst the islets getting good views of the numerous, mostly, Common Seals.

Tom prepared us a welcome warm drink as we sheltered in the lee of the islands. Drinks done, we headed out northwards, unfortunately the wind was now a bit stronger preventing a planned visit to Muck, however we did spend some time looking in an area of deeper sea where Basking Sharks and occasionally Minke Whales had been seen on previous excursions. Unfortunately there were none today, although Gannets, Kittiwakes, Fulmars and a few Manx Shearwaters were seen. We headed back eastwards towards Ardnamurchan Point, seeking shelter in Loch Sunart. A land stop at Tobermory gave the opportunity for a drink and a walk around the harbour. Heading for home the wind was against us and several stalwarts at the back decided to test their wet weather gear or in some cases just coats and decided not to seek shelter in the cabin and remain seated as the spray came over the ship onto them. They got wet!

After dinner we travelled the few miles west to Nadurra, the Ardnamurchan Nature Centre, where we baited an area on the opposite side of the road and waited. It was quite a long wait but we did see a Pine Martin come out of the wood, cross the road, jump the fence then a little while later come back and spend time eating the peanuts on the roadside, in front of the van where we all sat watching.

Day 5 Saturday 7th September

Loch Shiel - Acharacle - Castle Tiorem - Kendra Bay - Gharb Eilean hide We awoke to rain and cloud so had a leisurely breakfast this morning before setting off eastwards to Salen, then north to our first stop at the jetty beside the freshwater Loch Shiel. We spotted two juvenile Scaup and then the adult female, rare breeding ducks in the UK.

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Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

Our attention however was soon diverted by a White-tailed Eagle spotted across the lake, an adult and then another, an immature. The immature landed on a fence post and we quickly got the 'scopes on it, so everyone could get a view. Moving on we crossed, then followed, the River Shiel, a short but important fishing river that drains the large freshwater Loch Shiel. The narrow road eventually led through the wooded valley to a car park overlooking the bay at Castle Tioram. The mud flats left by the now receding tide were checked for waders and others walked across the causeway to the ruined castle. A nice flock of Red-breasted Merganser were seen here and allowed some excellent views.

Then it was across Kentra Moss and around the north side of Kentra Bay to Ardoe where we sat on the beach to eat our picnics. Later we walked through woods on the south side of the bay as far as Gorteneorn. We arrived back at the centre in good time, as tonight we were to be out on a late evening drive.

After another delicious meal we met Niall head stalker on the Ardnamurchan estate who arrived at 9.30pm and joined us in the bus for a night drive. As we drove he was able to pinpoint animals with his spotlight. He gave us an insight into the history of the area, the estate and especially the Red Deer which we were now seeing in his spotlight. Family groups of hinds with their young, plus stags which were now coming out of their daytime hiding places in the forest areas, to feed on the open hill. A couple of distant eyes shining in the beam were Foxes, unfortunately not Wild Cat on this occasion (as seen by the Naturetrek group a couple of weeks previously). Although Niall told us he had seen one the previous week, early one morning. At about 12.30am we dropped off Niall and headed back to the centre where some of us waited and were lucky to see the Pine Marten feeding and negotiating the new plank walkway Tom had created, towards the window. Unfortunately as it approached on the last plank it was startled and the plank slipped and fell so the aim of getting the animal to approach right to the window had to wait. A few insomniacs also saw another Pine Marten at about 4am!

Day 6 Sunday 8th September

Camas nan Geall - Sanna Bay - Kilchoan A beautiful morning with a clear view down to the bay at our first stop, a favourite; Camas nan Geall. A Buzzard flew across then an immature White-tailed Eagle which was then being mobbed by two Golden Eagles. Down in the bay another Otter was watched as it worked its way along close to the shore feeding. Near the feeding station another White-tailed Eagle was being mobbed by Ravens and as we were watching a Merlin shot across the telescope view. We picked it up again as it flew across the hillside.

Lunch spot today was at the scenic Sanna Bay on the north coast. We walked across an area of Machair created by the wind blown shell sand mixing with the peaty soil. It was a flower rich meadow full of Grass of Parnassus and Autumn Gentian. At the beach we ate our picnics in the warm sunshine then walked further through the dunes up to high points giving us spectacular views to the islands.

We returned southwards again through that special geological area for which Ardnamurchan is famous - The Tertiary Igneous Ring Complex - acaldera of a volcano which exploded and collapsed roughly 50 million years ago. A quick stop at Kilchoan was extended as we disturbed a resting Otter close to our parking spot which ran down the beach and into the sea, it then fished for flatfish and crabs for the next 20 minutes as we watched. Another night of Pine Marten activity at the centre was witnessed by some…

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

Day 7 Monday 9th September

River Shiel - Loch Shiel - Ardnamurchan Point On this last morning we explored a wooded lane on the west side of the River Shiel near where a Red Squirrel had been seen the previous week. Unfortunately no Squirrels, but the roadsides were good for fungi and further on Skylarks, which we had not seen elsewhere, were seen and Black Darters, a Scottish specialty dragonfly. A quick stop at Loch Shiel was rewarded with a Black-throated Diver, our first for the week. Back to the centre for lunch then out again at 2 for a last look at Ardnamurchan Point. On the way, another two White-tailed Eagles, one an adult, flew over our heads. The other an immature, sitting on a hillside amongst sheep, giving us a vivid demonstration of just how big they are.

At the Lighthouse we watched the sea for that last chance Basking Shark but no luck, a few Gannets, distant Manx Shearwaters and Guillemots being all we could find. Near the tearoom however a couple of Northern Wheatears, Stonechats and a small flock of Twite were watched. A Great-northern Diver flew over taking a short cut across the headland, still smart in its summer plumage. The scenery in the late afternoon sunshine on the return journey was just superb, and yet another White-tailed Eagle provided a spectacular finish to our last day.

The last night of Pine Marten activity proved to be the best, with two animals seen together, and one traversing the planks right up to the window nose to nose with those watchers who had stayed up until 1.15am - a just reward for their long vigil, and a truly unforgettable experience for those that stayed up, and a superb end to our stay.

Day 8 Tuesday 10th September

Return to Glasgow After a slightly early breakfast we loaded up and made good time to the Corran Ferry. Through Glen Coe and across Rannock Moor, all spectacular scenery in bright morning sunshine, to Bridge of Orchy station where we dropped off Flora, who was catching the train north. After a stop at the Green Welly at Tyndrum we made good time to the airport and station and made our farewells.

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Tour Report Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands

Species List

Birds ( = recorded but not counted; H = heard only)

September Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata   2 Black-throated Diver Gavia arctica 1 3 Great Northern Diver Gavia immer  1 4 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 1 5 Northern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis    6 Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus    7 Northern Gannet Sula bassana      8 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo       9 European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis       10 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea       11 Greylag Goose Anser anser       12 Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope 2 2 13 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca crecca     14 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos       15 Common Eider Somateria mollissima     16 Goosander Mergus merganser  17 Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator    18 White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla  1 2 2 2 19 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus cyaneus  20 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo   2    21 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 2 2 22 Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus   23 Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus 2 24 Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus        25 Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula      26 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago    27 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa  28 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata       29 Common Redshank Tringa totanus  30 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia   31 Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres  32 Dunlin Calidris alpina 2 33 Common Gull Larus canus      34 Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus       35 Herring Gull Larus argentatus       36 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus graellsii  37 Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus    38 Black-legged Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla    39 Common Tern Sterna hirundo  40 Common Guillemot Uria aalge     41 Razorbill Alca torda  42 Black Guillemot Cepphus grylle 1 43 Rock Dove Columba livia 

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 44 Woodpigeon Columba palumbus 3 45 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto    46 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius  H 47 Sky Lark Alauda arvensis  48 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 1 49 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica rustica      50 House Martin Delichon urbica     51 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis      52 Rock Pipit Anthus petrosus    53 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea  2  54 Pied Wagtail Motacilla alba yarrellii      55 Northern Wren Troglodytes troglodytes H H H  H 56 Dunnock Prunella modularis     57 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos   58 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 11 59 Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula H   60 European Robin Erithacus rubecula       61 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra  62 Common Stonechat Saxicola torquatus      63 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe   64 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata  65 Goldcrest Regulus regulus H 66 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus H 67 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla H 68 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis  1 69 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus  1 70 Great Tit Parus major     71 Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus   H    72 Coal Tit Periparus ater  H  H  73 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus      74 Treecreeper Certhia familiaris      75 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius H  H 76 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica  77 Carrion Crow Corvus corone   78 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix       79 Common Raven Corvus corax      80 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris    81 House Sparrow Passer domesticus      82 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs       83 Lesser Redpoll Carduelis cabaret   84 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis      85 Eurasian Siskin Carduelis spinus    86 Twite Carduelis flavirostris    87 Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina    88 Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra      89 Two-barred Crossbill Loxia leucoptera  1   

Scotland's Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 90 Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus  1 91 Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella    92 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra 

Mammals

European Rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus European Rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus Roe Deer, Capreolus capreolus Fallow Deer, Dama dama Red Deer, Cervus elaphus Pine Marten, Martes martes Harbour Porpoise, Phocoena phocoena Harbour (Common) Seal, Phoca vitulina Grey Seal, Halichoerus grypus River Otter, Lutra lutra

Butterflies

Peacock Small Tortoishell Scotch Argus Speckled Wood Small White Grayling

Moths

Pale Eggar Large Yellow Underwing Birch Mocha (Scottish var) Autumnal Rustic Crinian Ear Dark Marbled Carpet

Fungi (compiled by Ian & Katherine Rose)

Fly Agaric, Amanita muscaria The Blusher, Amanita rubescens Honey Fungus, Armillaria mellea Red Cracking Bolete, Boletus chrysenteron Chanterelle, Cantharellus cibarius Clitocybe dealbata Clitocybe flaccida Cloudy Agaric, Clitocybe nebularis Turkeytail, Coriolus versicolor Artists Fungus, Ganoderm applanatum Black Saddle Fungus, Helvella lacunosa Yellow Waxcap, Hygrocybe ceracea Red Waxcap, Hygrocybe insipida Meadow Waxcap, Hygrophorus pratensis Sulphur Tuft, Hypholoma fasciculare Amethyst Deceiver, Laccaria amethystea The Deceiver, Laccaria laccata Swamp Brittlegill, Russula claroflora Ochre Brittlegill, Russula ochroleuca Red Oak Milkcap, Lactarius rufus Mild Milkcap, Lactarius quietus Woolly Milkcap, Lactarius pubescens Grey slimy Milkcap, Lactarius vietus Saffron Milkcap, Lactarius delicicious Boletus, Leccinum versipelle Bitter Bolete, Leccinum scabum Dung Roundhead, Panaeolus semiovata Brown Rollrim, Paxillus involutus Birch Polypore, Piptoporus betulinus Earth Ball, Sclerodera aereolatum Hedgehog Fungus, Hydnum repandum Candlesnuff Fungus, Xylaria hypoxylon Horsehair Fungus, Marasmius androsaceus Hoof Fungus, Fomes fomentarius Blackening Brittlegill, Russula nigricans Dark Red Brittlegill, Russula sardonia The Sickener, Russula emetica