WWD_Cover Wrap_daily.indd 1 08/01/16 09:08 SPECIALEDITION

Fashion. Beauty. Business. 16 JANUARY 2016

Fall Collections 2016 Dun Deal Peter Dundas will begin the shows in Milan by unveiling his men’s wear collection for Roberto Cavalli. His effort will seek to keep the signature of the house intact while moving the line in a more modern direction. For more on the Milan men’s shows, see pages 8 to 16. PIOTR NIEPSUJ PIOTR by Photograph

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BUSINESS became more challenging the company said, with a slowdown from traveling cus- tomers, primarily from China and the Mid- dle East. The trend is most likely related to Paris to the strength of the pound compared with the euro. Burberry said the growth in Main- Burberry, land China came from a combination of Step Up increased footfall and conversion rates, helping to offset a comparable sales decline in Hong Kong that was more than Security at 20 percent. Fairweather said the growth in Mainland China was also underpinned Richemont by the brand’s holiday program, which featured a marketing film based on “Billy Upcoming Elliot,” and starring the likes of Sir Elton John, , James Corden and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Richemont said trading in the Asia-Pa- Shows See Shifts cific region continued to be challenging. It ● The men’s shows are slated to said the rate of sales growth continued to improve in Mainland China, where Hong run from Jan. 20 to 24, Kong and Macau both reported signifi- and couture displays from cantly lower sales. Jan. 24 to 28. The firm’s European growth was tar- In Revenues nished by the Paris terrorist attacks: Com- BY LAURE GUILBAULT pared to the first six months of the current year, the company said the slowdown in With Paris still on edge following terror ● Hong Kong, Macau remain which left 130 dead and hundreds injured, third-quarter sales “largely reflected weak attacks last November that killed 130 problematic for both firms. and Carol Fairweather, Burberry’s chief trading in Europe,” due to lower levels of people, “a very special attention” will financial officer, added that it “affected sen- tourism. be paid to safety during the upcoming BY SAMANTHA CONTI timent generally, and in terms of tourism.” Third-quarter revenues at the parents men’s wear and couture shows, French Richemont, with its core business in very of brands including Cartier, Van Cleef & fashion’s governing body said. Jittery tourists, unseasonably warm high-end watches and jewelry, saw sales Arpels, Panerai and Dunhill totaled 2.93 The Paris men’s shows are slated to weather and declining sales in Hong Kong increase 3 percent on a reported basis, and billion euros, or $3.21 billion. run from Jan. 20 to 24, and the couture and Macau stung two of the luxury indus- decrease 4 percent in constant currencies Jewelry continued to enjoy growth displays from Jan. 24 to 28. try’s biggest names, while the Mainland for the quarter. across most regions and product cate- “There’s a close cooperation between Chinese consumer made a surprise come- Both companies pointed to a revival in gories, partly compensating for weak the Fédération and its members, back in the key third quarter. domestic Mainland Chinese consumption, demand for watches. the state services and Paris police Burberry Group and Compagnie and the continued shrinkage of business Sales in the Americas region continued prefecture,” Pascal Morand, executive Financière Richemont both flagged uneven in Hong Kong and Macau. Once glittering, to be subdued, while growth in Japan president of the Fédération française tourist patterns as a drag on sales in the high-margin markets for both brands, pressed on, albeit at a lower rate, than de la Couture du Prêt à Porter des third quarter on Wednesday, near the time Hong Kong and Macau have lost their luster during the first six months, largely due Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode when a shopping area in Jakarta, Indone- due to political troubles and a decline in to increasingly challenging comparatives explained to WWD. “Recent tragic sia, was attacked by terrorists leaving at Mainland Chinese tourism. and seasonal factors, in particular Chinese events induce us to increase vigilance.” least seven dead. Earlier this week a sui- During a conference call, Burberry’s tourism, Richemont said. Morand noted police stations in cide bomber killed 10 people, most of them Fairweather said accessories had been The Middle East and Africa continued to arrondissements where shows are being German tourists, in central Istanbul, near more resilient than apparel against the show limited growth. held would be implicated. the Blue Mosque, a popular attraction. tougher macroeconomic backdrop, Looking ahead, both Richemont and Among recommendations that the International travel warnings remain in with the brand’s new rucksack, Banner Burberry conceded that the challenging federation has made to the houses are place, with an alert for U.S. citizens lasting bag, small leather goods and scarves all trading environment is likely to prevail in the control of identification cards and until Feb. 24. French fashion’s governing performing strongly alongside ponchos, the final quarter, ending March 31. bag checks at catwalk venues. How body said it was working with police to dresses and the new, lightweight cashmere Richemont noted that its operating the measures will be implemented step up security ahead of the upcoming trench. profit for the year as a whole will also be will depend on the houses and the men’s wear and couture shows later this Fairweather called the contracting busi- negatively affected on a comparative basis venues, Morand said, noting details month. ness in Hong Kong and Macau “severely by a non-recurring property disposal gain, aren’t revealed deliberately so as not to Burberry said in its trading statement damaging” to the company’s third-quarter while net profit for the year will benefit on undermine their efficacy. that third-quarter results fell short of inter- results. She also noted that Burberry’s a comparative basis from the non-cash gain “Security of our guests is always a nal expectations, remaining flat at reported stores in Hong Kong, however, remain relating to the creation of Yoox Net-a-por- priority, in any context,” a spokesperson rates and increasing 1 percent on an under- profitable and that the brand is taking steps ter Group. for Chanel said. “Chanel is working lying basis. Sales in the October to Decem- to manage its costs as it works on getting Burberry, meanwhile, said it expects closely with the police prefecture and ber period were 603 million pounds, or customers through the door and spending adjusted profit before tax for the full year state services and will reinforce its $917 million at average exchange for the on big-ticket items. ending March 31 to be broadly in line with security plan in accordance with safety period in question, in what chief creative The Europe, Middle East and Africa market forecasts, and supported by a instructions of the authorities.” and chief executive officer Christopher region saw midsingle-digit growth with further reduction in management bonuses, For the time being, shows’ locations Bailey called “a tougher environment than strong performance in , Spain and additional discretionary cost savings, and a aren’t listed on the official schedule, up expected” for the luxury sector as a whole. Germany, which Fairweather attributed to boost from foreign exchange rates. on modeaparis.com. Instead, it reads: The company attributed its shortfall to a combination of tourists and a return to Fairweather said that during the last few “See invitation.” the repeated devaluation of the yuan, the growth among domestic, continental Euro- months Burberry had identified a further 5 Some 500 journalists have been warm winter weather, political instability pean customers. Italy and Spain continued million pounds, or $7.2 million, in savings, accredited for Paris men’s shows and 700 in the Middle East, and “uncertain” tourist to deliver growth in excess of 20 percent, in addition to the 20 million pounds, or for the couture’s collections, numbers patterns developing since the November while France slowed. $29 million, already announced. that are roughly in line with January terrorist attacks in Paris. Burberry saw The U.K., which accounts for more than All currency conversions are at average 2015, according to the Fédération, noting a decline in sales following the atrocity, one-third of the region’s retail revenue, exchange rates for the periods in question. that doesn’t mean all will come.

RETAIL ,” the spokesman said. surcharge from factors. Separately, market and financial sources A separate Sears spokesman said the com- Sears to Close Some Stores have voiced concern about whether orders pany has significant financial flexibility and to Sears would be approved by factors. On the means to meet its obligations to vendors. ● Company’s factored accounts a spokesman said. He declined to disclose Thursday, sources said at least one unnamed “We’ve had no material interruptions in the primarily involve apparel the number of stores that will be shuttered, factor has elected not to approve an order, flow of goods to our company,” he said. “We noting only that “it’s a very small percent- although a credit analyst said it was likely have the financial resources to deal with vendors. age” of the company’s store count and that because the financing firm had no other vendors directly,” noting that the company BY VICKI M. YOUNG the doors impacted will be primarily Kmart exposure to the retailer and “didn’t want to communicates with its suppliers regularly. WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM LISA LOCKWOOD sites. As of the third quarter ended Oct. 31, get back in.” Factors that are still approving He added that “less than 3 percent of our Sears Holdings operated 952 Kmart stores orders to Sears for the most part have been gross inventory is factored, [representing] and 735 Sears stores. checking orders on a case-by-case basis for a very small percentage of Sears Holding Sears Holdings Corp. has store closures in “The store closures are part of a series several quarters now. Corp.’s overall business.” He also acknowl- mind for the first quarter. of actions we’re taking to reduce on-going Apparel vendors are concerned that edged that the factoring is in connection “We will be closing some Kmart and Sears expenses, adjust our asset base, and accel- there could be a tightening of credit lines in with the apparel side of the business where stores in various cities across the country,” erate the transformation of our business connection with Sears accounts or a higher the vendors are typically smaller in size.

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the minute they happen in real time. As such, showcasing collections that are imme- diately available seem to me to be the future of the fashion show. Fashion “Our experience was great, we definitely felt an uplift in social media traction around the weekend — and also afterward. It is hard Scoops to collect clear sales data, but last season we launched men’s wear on the LC:M schedule with the collection made available in store A NEW MAN and online, alongside the presentation. I feel There’s been a changing of the guard like from a business proposition this time in Bloomingdale’s fashion office. Justin line makes sense.” Berkowitz has joined the retailer as fashion Holland believes consumer shows are the director of men’s. He will report to Kevin Harter, vice president for fashion direction future of fashion. “We saw and of men’s and home. He succeeds Josh Pes- Givenchy both involve their consumers last kowitz, who recently left Bloomingdale’s to fashion week. House of Holland also invited open his own men’s store in Los Angeles. 100 of our best consumers to our show That shop, Magasin, a new men’s multi- Several in September, as I feel like ultimately the brand store, is expected to open on Feb. designers are marketing and money spent on these events 20. Berkowitz was most recently senior showing on the is ultimately to generate consumer interest market editor for Details, and previously runway during held editorial positions at Teen Vogue and London Fashion and interaction — and sales.” Marie Claire. — JEAN E. PALMIERI Weekend. Recently, London Fashion Week has seen designers including , Thomas Tait and Hunter explore new ways of FASHION BLAST FROM THE PAST reaching their customers. Tom Ford has Tiny tiaras served up on platters greeted experimented with different formats, guests at the West Hollywood including a fashion film featuring Lady Gaga store Wednesday evening. They were British Designers to Stage directed by Nick Knight. Thomas Tait plans there to toast the launch of the Nasty Gal to renounce his London catwalk show in collaboration with Courtney Love — Love, favor of one-on-one presentations in Paris, Courtney by Nasty Gal. News first broke of while Hunter’s plans include reaching its the 18-piece collection late last year on Ins- Consumer-Facing Shows audience through music festivals and tagram causing a stir among die-hard fans. But in the stockroom at the back of the retail stores. store Love and Nasty Gal founder Sophia ● London Fashion Weekend participate, they have limited themselves “Over recent years, there have been many Amoruso said so many styles were left out is gaining momentum as to highlighting one designer per day. This conversations about how we blur lines that there could be a sequel in the works. allows the brand to “own the day, and it between London Fashion Week and London “We’re talking about it,” Love told WWD. consumers take charge. ensures maximum eyeballs on the collec- Fashion Weekend, as designers increase Amoruso added: “If there’s demand. I tion,” he added. Last season’s edition saw consumer engagement in shows through mean, it feels really good. It was so easy BY LORELEI MARFIL Christopher Raeburn, House of Holland, social, live-streaming and, for a select few, and there’s so much left to do. There’s a lot of Courtney kind of touch points that we LONDON — In an effort to cozy up to the Issa London and Peter Pilotto showcase the show experience,” Caroline Rush told didn’t even cover, like shipwreck Courtney end consumer, several British designers their collections. WWD last year. and flapper Courtney and Peter Pan-collar are staging runway shows during London Raeburn, who presented his fall 2015 col- “There is no doubt in future seasons Courtney.” What debuted is a collection Fashion Weekend, which takes place on lection, said it was a prime opportunity to these lines will blur even more as designers of shoes and apparel ranging from $48 Feb. 25, two days after the end of London test the waters directly with consumers. “It opt to do in-season shows. However, we to $188 and includes some of the usual Fashion Week. was a very positive and professional expe- need to ensure those businesses that rely suspects from the Nineties, modernized as The move comes at a time when the rience,” Raeburn said. “I was able to do an on platforms such as fashion weeks to reach Love explained. There’s mary janes jazzed new wholesale partners and media continue up on the heel with sparkling rhinestones fashion show system is being rethought interview beforehand discussing the brand, and a baby doll slipdress, which Love wore by numerous designers and brands, which delivered a more informed approach to have the opportunity to do so.” to the party and described as more of an especially in New York. As reported, the and generated a stronger reaction from the The biannual, four-day consumer event, “old school” look. That’s in addition to lace Council of Fashion Designers of America public. Staging the catwalk show enabled held at the Saatchi Gallery, will host runway underwear, a pair of stilettos, a full lace has commissioned Boston Consulting us to open up opportunities to expand our shows, designer talks, shopping galleries bodysuit and a satin maxi slipdress with Group to explore the viability and logistics visibility and presence as a brand, and it and trends presentations. The shopping lace detailing. of consumer-oriented fashion weeks. worked well as it continued to showcase the area will see 150 brands on sale, including The nine-month project stemmed from The London event, to be held at the fall collection as it was dropping into store.” Fyodor Golan, J. JS Lee, Linda Farrow, Love’s own desire to do something in fashion that was successful. “I was making Saatchi Gallery near Sloane Square, will This was Raeburn’s first consumer cat- Mawi, Paper London, Pringle of Scotland nut-job clothes,” Love said. “Seriously, I was feature Emilia Wickstead, Holly Fulton, walk show and the designer noted he would and Osman. cutting up Edwardian dresses and putting Mary Katrantzou and Temperley London. be open to participating again. The event will host a series of designer them with Twenties dresses and it cost me The BFC plans to showcase one designer per Henry Holland also joined Raeburn, talks with fashion industry figures, including a fortune. I wasn’t going to sell them but day, with the runway show repeated about showing his line the same year. Charlotte Olympia’s Charlotte Dellal, Emilia I really, really wanted to get into fashion.” two to four times throughout the day. “We decided to take part, as I’m inter- Wickstead, Katharine Hamnett, Nicholas Love’s agent suggested teaming with According to a BFC spokesman, the event ested in refocusing catwalk presentations to Kirkwood, Pam Hogg and Premier Models Amoruso and, at the urging of her daugh- ter and after reading Amoruso’s book, has “seen an increase in interest from both be a more consumer-facing event. London founder Carole White. “#GirlBoss,” she felt a collaboration made global and British brands to be involved Fashion Weekend is the only event of its Launched in 1998, the event was created sense. “It was a big team effort,” Love said. with London Fashion Weekend, as the event kind that is working on this,” Holland said. to help designers clear their merchandise. “[Amoruso] has a good, tight ship and runs offers the opportunity to reach a targeted “I personally feel like fashion shows are no Recently, the British Fashion Council has it very well and it was really fun and as and focused consumer audience of more longer a closed industry event exclusively curated the initiative with a consumer focus. Sophia used the word today, it was sort of than 16,000 people.” for buyers and the press,” he told WWD. Ticket prices range from 20 pounds, or $28, effortless.” — KARI HAMANAKA While the British Fashion Council “Social media means that images from the for a bronze ticket to 145 pounds, or $208, has received requests from designers to shows appear in your customers’ timeline for a luxe ticket.

FASHION Y-3, Virgin Galactic Collaborate on Space Apparel

● Y-3 has revealed a pilot flight Adam Wells and The flight suit is constructed from suit and prototype flight boot. Lawrence Midwood Nomex Meta Aramid materials through a with a flight suit. 3-D engineered pattern. BY LISA LOCKWOOD Lawrence Midwood, senior director and designer at Y-3, said, “Space travel Y-3, a fashion collaboration between is one of the most exciting developments Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto, has forged of our generation….The pilot flight suit a partnership with Virgin Galactic, for a prototype that we have developed truly space-apparel system for Virgin Galac- represents both of our brands and, more tic’s pilots, future astronauts and the importantly, will ensure comfort, func- operations team in Spaceport America. tionality and support for the pilots of the Courtney Love and Y-3 unveiled a prototype of the pilot world’s first commercial space flights.” In at flight suit and a prototype flight boot at to fully support a pilot’s natural seating addition to the pilot flight suit and boot, the Nasty Gal store Spaceport America in New Mexico, home position as identified through a series of a bespoke limited-edition Y-3 and Virgin in West Hollywood. to Virgin Galactic’s Gateway to Space tests and trials with the Virgin Galactic Galactic partnership jacket has also been

terminal. The flight suit is being designed pilot corps. revealed. Council the British Fashion of Models courtesy Images; Getty and Amoruso by Nathan Gallagher; Love by photograph Y-3

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● Customization was the and sweaters. Victorinox KEY STYLES: For fall, the buzzword at the fall edition of brand is venturing into ath-leisure with la- the men’s wear fair. INSPIRATION: The Swiss ser-cut and water-repel- The Personalization of army knife-maker is lent sweatshirts; it’s also The By PAULINA SZMYDKE, growing its apparel launching denim. The ALESSANDRA TURRA and ALEX BADIA business, hoping to traditional five-pocket Photographs by JASON JEAN generate low dou- styles in 11.5 oz. and dark ble-digit increases in the Reviews Arts and craft ruled at Pitti Uomo, the washes are made in U.S. division in coming years, bellwether men’s wear fair, which ended and in collaboration with according to Jason Gal- its four-day run here on Friday. Reprieve, which turns len, president of global recycled plastic bottles The trend was perhaps less of an homage fashion. Outerwear, its into new product. to the city’s artisan heritage than an oppor- best-selling category, PRICES: Denim sells for tunity for struggling retailers to reinvigorate currently represents 30 $165 a pair. Ath-leisure their offerings, as customers are increas- percent of total volume, items range from $125 followed by woven shirts ingly spending their money in online chan- to $195. nels rather than conventional retail stores. “It was a pretty tough season for most Champion Blauer retailers. The desire for reinvention is high and that makes Pitti so relevant,” noted by Beams Josh Peskowitz, cofounder of Magasin, a DESIGNER: Enzo Fusco INSPIRATION: The North new men’s multibrand store in Los Ange- INSPIRATION: The brand les, slated to open Feb. 20. “Exclusivity American outerwear and Japanese retailer specialist, acquired and customization are really important teamed up to present by Italian FGF Industry today, and crafts and arts can help with a collection of classic in 2001, is marking its that. It’s like the farm-to-table food move- sportswear staples in 80th anniversary with a ment. People are starting to treat clothing sweatshirt fleece. capsule collection. KEY STYLES: The lineup, in the same way.” KEY STYLES: Building on available in light gray the brand's tradition, Grenson brand director Joe Hutchings or black, features a Brunello said made-to-order and designer collabo- the capsule includes 20 reedition of Champion’s signature men’s pieces Cucinelli rations have risen significantly in the com- signature “Reverse with a vintage flair, pany’s own U.K. factories, which will mark Weave” sweatshirt, now including a police jacket, their 160th anniversary this year. “Retailers presented in a version DESIGNER: Brunello soft sweaters, T-shirts Pitti need a point of difference and custom- with a high-tech coating and denim pants in dif- Cucinelli ized styles give people something to talk that makes the piece ferent washes. Colors INSPIRATION: In keeping water-repellent. The about,” he noted, adding that in July, the range from navy to with previous seasons, collection also includes the luxury brand aims firm would set up a “school” to explain mélange gray with neon varsity jackets, bomb- green accents. to blend formalwear to clients how its shoes are produced and ers, T-shirts and slouchy with casual elements PRICES: From $55 for allow them to be personalized. pants, all with minimalist T-shirts to $306 for to deliver an effortless, To help buyers pick the cherries, Pitti styling. elegant wardrobe. outerwear. expanded the “Make” section of the fair PRICES: $66 to $273 KEY STYLE: Tailored double-breasted jackets with a group of 43 craftsmen it scouted from around the world, including Title of in traditional men’s slated to set up its first The Work. The label said its handcrafted jew- patterns pair with freestanding men’s-only Sartorialist ripped denim pants, store in the second half elry made in New York grew to 30 percent while sartorial trousers of 2016, according to of its offering, up from 10 percent only 18 by Roy DESIGNER: Fabio Fusi coordinate with soft chief executive officer months ago. “Fall has been our best season INSPIRATION: In an effort Roger’s sweaters with a relaxed Eraldo Poletto. Japan to become a lifestyle yet,” said designer Jonathan Meizler, who fit as well as T-shirts. accounts for 25 percent brand — and a year after cited local production as an asset for The brand also delivers of its total business. DESIGNER: Scott a range of outerwear, it launched a men’s divi- smaller, short-term deliveries. KEY STYLES: The label’s Schuman from tailored coats to sion — the family-owned Paris-based neckwear specialist Maison Juun.J totes have emerged as INSPIRATION: Italian precious yet sporty company continues to bestsellers. They come F, whose business dates to the 17th cen- denim specialist Roy Pitti Uomo guest designer shearling hooded expand beyond hand- with multiple compart- tury, said exports rose 42 percent. “Every- Roger’s has joined Juun.J gave his spirited fall jackets with zippers. The bags with footwear, ments for techies, some body says ties are in free fall, but we don’t forces with street-style collection a futuristic spin, color palette focuses scarves, eyewear and are reversible for more see that. As long as they are different, they photographer Scott sending out a gang of daredevils on gray, brown and small leather goods. color options and oth- sell,” said François-Régis Laporte, Maison Schuman of The Sar- blue tones with some Fusi insisted “all styles clad in embossed, heavy ers, such as the “007,” torialist to create two accents of dark red and are trans-generational F’s creative head. leather, felted and lots can be stacked one on capsule collections. The purple. and genderless,” and Hirofumi Kurino, United Arrows’ creative of shearling rendered in his top of the other. first launched at Pitti the line is particularly director, agreed that craftsmanship is on the signature pumped-up volumes. PRICES: Bags start at Uomo this week. successful in Asia, $531; shoes retail from upswing. “It is a solution for men’s fashion. KEY STYLES: Infused with Cropped leather tops where the firm is $260. People will still buy expensive clothing, but a Seventies’-inspired harkening back at football’s they need a reason for it. Fabric, produc- vibe, the fall capsule protective gear and padded David Marc tion and history are becoming very import- includes pieces crafted numbers, including sleeveless ant,” he said, lauding this season’s fair for from high-end materials. biker jackets and matching Schuman created a its diverse offering, although he noted that pants, infused the dynamic DESIGNERS: Marco Efrati shrunken suede bomb- traditional tailoring was on the losing end. er, which he paired with lineup with an imminent sense and David di Porto “We are going back to our roots for fall, to of battle, while almost every INSPIRATION: Founded high-waisted, slightly in 2013, this eyewear the rustic side of fashion: tweed, alpaca, flared denim pants and item came with a concise, label is strictly made mohair — all the hairy fabrics — and warm a fitted wool turtleneck one-word message printed in Italy — by hand, in colors such as orange, burgundy and the sweater. A parka with a or embossed on the fabric. two tiny factories in full range of browns will be key. Knitwear utilitarian feel is offered “Genderless,” “boundary-less” Veneto, where artisans is very strong because of [climate change], in an oversize silhouette. and “paradigm-less,” they infuse the styles with a PRICES: Jeans are $217; and so is functional wear,” he said. shirts and jackets sell proclaimed in Twitter-friendly vintage look. “If it’s not The fair’s arty theme was right up Eric fashion. handmade, I don’t see for $164 and $1,093, Jennings’ alley. The vice president and Elsewhere — in keeping the point of doing it in respectively. Italy. But I think people men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Ave- with the city’s traditions — today have a perception nue, which is slated to open several doors, the designer paid homage to of value. They want to including a men’s-only venue in Manhattan Florentine tailoring via long know what they are Grenson/4 ways, inspired by the in 2017, was stocking up on “anything that MC2 Saint some of the brands from water-repellent Knitbrary enrolled local artisans and luscious soft-shouldered paying for,” Efrati said. company’s triple-welt would animate the new stores.” “We have that characterized the materials and includes to handcraft sweaters coats. As they were partially The materials, such classics, handmade in connected with a lot of people in the Make Barth Eighties and Nineties, polyurethane inserts, a in alpaca and vicuña. sliced into panels and mixed as acetate, leather the U.K. like Best Company and thermo-stitched hood These include supersoft DESIGNERS: Tim Little, section. We are also looking for a shoe DESIGNER: Yolanda with extralong scarves, they let and hypoallergenic KEY STYLES: The new Henry-Lloyd, to develop and big, functional front styles in a chic com- owner of Grenson; Shin- repair service and grooming kits — so, not Estévez off an air of fetish elegance with stainless steel, are models are reinterpre- DESIGNER: Massimiliano a signature outerwear pockets. bination of baby blue suke Takizawa, founder INSPIRATION: Founded sourced locally — with tations of Grenson’s just apparel but lifestyle elements that Ferrari piece. PRICES: “The Voyager,” and brown, as well as a “Matrix” vibe. of Neighborhood, and in 2011 in La Coruña, the exception of Zeiss toe-cap derby boot, would create a moment of surprise.” INSPIRATION: Established KEY STYLE: Available in retailing for $294 at an extra-thick option, “[This is] my vision of the Kazuki Kuraishi, founder Spain, the brand, which lenses, which come with the monkey boot, a tall Kurino, meanwhile, revealed that United in 1994, the brand offers two different fabrics select multibrand stores weighing around four future, a kind of post-chaos city, of The Fourness. is carried in about 200 an antiscratch coating. derby workboot and a numerous beachwear and in several color vari- as well as the brand’s pounds, worked in a INSPIRATION: The three Arrows would set up its second Tokyo flag- international stores, [where] the remaining people KEY STYLES: The Johnny, derby shoe. Colorful options featuring bold, ations, including bright boutiques. mélange of green and designers teamed with ship in the city’s upscale Roppongi district offers luxury handcraft- wear this,” Juun.J said of his a round multicolored elastic gussets add pop playful prints, for men, primary tones as well brown hues. the Grenson factory to in September. “It will be four times as large ed knitwear made from apocalyptically tinged show. frame, and the Alberto, and encourage “sneak- women and children. as military green and PRICES: $874 to $3,824 create a brand called 4, as the existing one and stock higher-priced precious yarns sourced A lack of color further fed which boasts a dainty er-type of people like me For fall, MC2 Saint Barth light blue, “The Voyager” at retail representing the four from around the world. leather frame, have to discover the beauty items. We will also put in place an elite teamed up with Italian is an urban jacket with into the somber, cyberpunk parties involved. They KEY STYLES: For fall, emerged as bestsellers. of well-made shoes,” as service team…because at the end of the fashion power consul- a sporty feel. Inspired mood. — Paulina Szmydke created four shoe styles the brand focused on PRICES: From $172 Kuraishi put it. day, what counts is merchandising and tant Olmes Carretti, the by sailing styles, this in four different color- Peru, where Knitbrary

PRICES: $575 to $592 presentation.” Giannoni Giovanni by Juun.J photograph creative mind behind Windbreaker is crafted

WWD.ShowDaily.Pitti.indd 2 1/14/16 7:26 PM WWD.ShowDaily.Pitti.indd 3 1/14/16 7:27 PM WWD.ShowDaily.Pitti.indd 4 10 — Paulina Szmydke streets alike. andcountry surely make aspeedy to city segue upperup withaPrimeknit will Itschunkythe Nineties. solespiced the brand’s SeeUlater shoe from sneaker aswell asanew take on oftherecentlystyle launched NMD athletic heritage through anovel it stayed trueto Adidas’ rich, have usedastronger fashion spin, triangles. choreography ofrotating neon the teamlitupby animpeccable ofsalableoptions,which plenty The season’s separates offered topped witharetro-tinged sweater. over apairofcompression pants, layering —cueanylon tunicworn Aizawa revved upviaclever the traditional tracksuit, which way backfrom thegymincity. for that matter) often crave ontheir overcoats guys —theones (orgirls and asembellishmentsontechnical patterns onknitted V-neck sweaters So heusedthethree as stripes trademark look“fashionable.” brand’swith makingtheGerman admitted he’s beenobsessed forOriginals, fall,thedesigner collaborationseason withAdidas about thestripes. If you ask Yosuke Aizawa, it’s all Originals × Adidas Mountaineering White Though the collection could Though thecollection There was ahandsometake on apreviewDuring second- ofhis Filling Pieces SNEAKERS BLOCKED COLOR- Wooster + TEXTURES TWEED Scotland Pringle of SILHOUETTES NINETIES MILAN SPECIAL EDITION LENSES Kyme FLAT Photographs by JASON JEAN move theneedlefor fall. The categorie TRENDS UOMO:PITTI s thatwill UNCONSTRUCTED Cini Venezia BLAZERS BLAZERS COATS Falke KNIT Filson BACKPACKS OVERSIZE Breuer TIES GEOMETRIC WOOL Norwegian Rain 16 JANUARY 2016 MILITARY Twena Satya SOFT HATS 1/14/16 7:27PM

Adidas photograph by Giovanni Giannoni 16 JANUARY 2016 www.sweetyears.it 11 12 16 JANUARY 2016 16 JANUARY 2016 13 MILAN SPECIAL EDITION

BUSINESS private equities but all with the same logic. With Harmont & Blaine, we have 35 per- cent of the company, but we have a relative majority, meaning each shareholder has around 16 percent, so we can appoint the ceo and financial director. Clessidra was rumored to be eyeing Versace, but the family did not want to New Money, relinquish control. Is that why a deal JANUARY did not materialize? Yes, I think Clessidra looked at the dos- sier, but that was before I joined. You can 16·17·18, 2016 never say never, we wouldn’t usually do a minority operation, but if the company is beautiful and not too expensive, why not? via tortona 27/lounge In this case, it was a lot of money without superstudio più New Attitude having a majority stake and this is not a fit for Clessidra. ● Francesco Trapani of from its peers because, in addition to the Could you identify Clessidra’s poten- resources, it also has operative and indus- tial targets? investment firm Clessidra says trial expertise. This is a country rich in small and small to midsize Italian firms Here, he discusses the way private medium-sized companies, often compet- are realizing the need for new equity funds can help brands get to the ing against each other, and in fragmented next level. sectors. We intervene on succession issues skill sets — and funding — to or flank companies on their investments. thrive in today’s environment. What are Clessidra’s assets and They are usually domestic champions strengths? based in Italy, but they already have an By LUISA ZARGANI Clessidra is a different animal in the international exposure. It may not have turned into love yet, but private equity arena, compared with oth- We can either buy a single company or Italian entrepreneurs and designers are ers, as it has financial as well as corporate develop business through the acquisition shedding some of their proverbial wariness and industrial expertise. Medium-sized of firms in the same sector. For example, toward finance and private equity funds. Italian companies need experience not we publicly listed asset manager Anima, Recent transactions include some of the only in finance, but they also have to map but we created it, putting together many top luxury goods names in the country, out objectives, strategies, operations and different asset managers. In fashion, this from Valentino and Versace to Roberto expand in other countries such as China, could be done on the production pipeline Cavalli and Buccellati. launching products with a 360-degree or with companies that have licenses. In 2014, Qatar-based Mayhoola for vision. Clessidra is particularly interesting When and how does Clessidra gener- Investments acquired its first men’s wear- for medium-sized companies. ally exit its investments? Is the Bourse only Italian luxury brand, , from Could this lack of operative vision be the most logical exit? a group of Italian entrepreneurs, including the cause for Italy’s dearth of luxury Usually the cycle is three to five years. the Barizza, Bellet, Miola and Ghiringhelli conglomerates? To relaunch Cavalli, it may take five to six families, two years after buying Valentino The most important stall comes from the years. As for the Bourse, it depends on the from Permira. Emir Sheikh Hamad bin individualism typical of Italians, which has moment and the sector, it’s unpredictable. Khalifa Al-Thani also bought the Four prevented anyone from putting together a How has the market changed? Seasons hotel in from brothers big group. I myself talked a lot with fami- It’s increasingly a global market. More Marcello and Corrado Fratini. lies before selling [] to LVMH, but in than 30 years ago, if you traveled you Tamburi Investment Partners SpA, or the end did not succeed — they are afraid would see local brands or some luxury TIP, in 2014 closed a fund-raising initia- of losing control. This is still the case now, label. Today it’s the opposite. Yes, the tive through its new Tipo branch, taking but to put together a luxury group today market is bigger so there are more oppor- minority stakes in midsized Italian firms would need a structure that is not feasible. tunities, but there is more competition, to help them grow, acting as a figurative If someone decides to sell, it would be business is more complex, so companies “glue,” said president and chief executive difficult to buy because the big interna- need sophisticated managers and financial officer Giovanni Tamburi. In 2013, TIP tional groups, from LVMH and Kering to means. For this reason, entrepreneurs are invested in Ruffini’s holding company, Richemont and Qatar, would not allow it, more open to alliances than before, they Ruffini Partecipazioni, indirectly buying a stake in Moncler, which went public at the end of 2013. Ruffini also allowed The “The market is bigger so there are more Carlyle Group into Moncler in 2008, selling opportunities, but there is more competition, a 48 percent stake to help grow the brand exponentially. Carlyle exited in June 2014. business is more complex, so companies need One of Italy’s most famous fashion families, the Versaces, agreed to sell a 20 sophisticated managers and financial means.” percent stake to Blackstone Group in 2014, aiming to develop the brand globally and go public. This strategy mirrors that of the they have the financial means and they are more available. I’ve seen the change Cimmino family, who sold a 35 percent invest to create synergies. Unless different over the past 12 to 18 months. They know stake in preppy brand Harmont & Blaine to families fuse their activities. this will allow them to become more Italian private equity firm Clessidra SGR in is building his own sophisticated and stronger in order to be 2014. Clessidra has been among the most group with OTB, though? more aggressive. active funds, buying a 70 percent stake This is different from luxury. Private equity funds can be an import- in Milanese jewelry firm Buccellati from What drew you to Clessidra? ant tool also for those that want to keep various members of the Buccellati family I had held executive roles for more than control. These can even let a fund in with a in 2013 and the Roberto Cavalli company 30 years, so I was tempted by the opportu- 51 percent stake, and then maybe go public from the designer last April. nity to take on a more varied and entre- and the fund leaves with its stake and the Why have Italian families been hesitant preneurial job. The LVMH experience was former owner buys it back. From the day before, and are now opening up to the extraordinary, Bernard Arnault is a fascinat- the fund entered and then exited, the world of finance now? Francesco Trapani, a ing businessman, with qualities outside of company has grown, is more solid and has shareholder and chairman at Clessidra, who the ordinary and very positive, but I wanted more means. is also executive vice chairman of the fund to become once again in charge of my time. Is your third fund closed? and chairman of Cavalli, thinks it has to do Clessidra can be an interesting opportunity. It’s operative, but it will close in March, with a traditional reluctance to cede control, What are the motivations and guide- we are raising funds. We bought Cavalli, particularly with family-run businesses. But lines behind Clessidra’s investments, [furniture and design in plastic firm] these small to midsized firms are realizing which appear quite diverse? Arredo Plast and ICBPI [CartaSi credit card that in order to grow and thrive in today’s Clessidra is an opportunistic fund, with platform]. fast-changing and ultracompetitive global a focus on Italy. We look at investments in In its most recent study, Bain & Co. www.whiteshow.it market, they need sophisticated managers, different industries wherever there is a cre- and Fondazione Altagamma reported new expertise — and additional funding. ation of value. It’s normal for investments that the jewelry category grew the Trapani, a former Bulgari ceo who was to be different, but they are more similar most in 2015. You have Buccellati, are also chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy than they appear. Taking a majority stake you looking at other jewelry brands? Louis Vuitton’s watches and jewelry is our rule of thumb, and full governance is We are eyeing many different sectors division, believes Clessidra is in a unique generally our model, but there are excep- from apparel to food and financial ser- Francesco position, having cultivated the Italian tions. Such is the case with Istituto Banche vices, but we don’t have a jewelry label in Trapani market for years, differentiating the fund Popolari, a deal that involved different the pipeline at the moment.

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¬ Peuterey Studio, designed by started working with Iceberg on the new creative director Federico Cur- company’s men’s wear as a fashion radi, will make its debut in Milan on and creative consultant. He was Jan. 17 at the Neoclassical Palazzo appointed Iceberg’s first men’s wear Serbelloni. creative director in June 2013, but left Chief executive officer Francesco last November. Pesci aims to create a comprehen- His line for Peuterey is all made in sive brand and expand Peuterey Italy with sophisticated fabrics and globally. The arrival of Curradi in construction. The fall line targets November, he said, was intended “to “two souls in symbiosis, a man who create more desirability around the thinks and works in the city,” setting brand. He comes from the fashion an “urban dynamism” at the heart of world, rather than the sportswear the collection. The intellectual and arena, and knows how to create total working worlds blend, as Curradi looks.” focuses on the architect’s sphere. Pesci lamented the “excessive Not by chance, the collection winks attention” paid to function and tech- at Gianfranco Ferré — himself an nical performance in the sportswear architect — as well as Giorgio segment, which he believes is not in the Eighties. enough to spur business. Instead, “This is a pleasant man, easy to Pesci wants to rebalance the label’s understand, and not conceptual. The sales, which are heavily skewed to collection is a mix of technical and happy because this collection is very outerwear, to create year-round sportswear for the everyday urban close to Giorgio Armani’s taste and demand. hero,” said Curradi. to the aesthetic of the location,” said And Curradi is the man to do it, Technical contribute to the Vanotti, who launched his namesake Pesci believes. Born in Florence in functionality of parkas and blousons; label in 2012. “I admire Armani’s work 1975, Curradi was previously men’s tailored overcoats and duffels have and I see myself [as part of this] wear creative director for Iceberg. internal straps that can be worn Italian wave he created.” He lived in New York for several as rucksacks; fustian blazers have For fall, Vanotti explored a universe years before moving back to Italy, detachable linings and shearling of uniforms, from military to religious first working at Ermanno Daelli, then collars; knits exhibit mathematical ones. as head of the men’s styling office jacquards and geometric intarsia “The collection is infused with a at . In 2005, he inspired by Euclid’s theorems, while sense of severity that doesn’t only became head of the men’s collection patch pockets and tool belts or refer to the military atmosphere, but at Roberto Cavalli. A year later, he collars round out the details. also evokes a sense of moral rigor,” Curradi created exclusive fabrics said the designer, who exhibits a for the collection that range from taste for graphic, essential shapes. double-faced, technical and diagonal This season, he focuses on Peuterey wools to nylon and gabardine in elongated silhouettes and plays a color palette of charcoal, rust, with “wrong proportions” pairings Studio military green and black. — for example, long jackets with — LUISA ZARGANI short pants. Among the standouts are double-breasted blazers with kimonolike sleeves and military coats deconstructed to resemble robes. Everything is crafted from high-end Lucio fabrics such as textured wool, wool crepe, a wide range of striped cloths, MILAN: Vanotti padded jacquards inspired by North- ern European patterns and corduroy. ONES TO WATCH Vanotti also used Fifties-inspired New and noteworthy brands ¬ Lucio Vanotti will make his dark, rigid denim for a workwear feel. runway debut at the Armani Theater The color palette includes Vanotti’s at the Milan men’s shows. on Saturday. signature black, blue and white tones “When they told me about the enriched with khaki and sage green, possibility of showing there, I was the season’s staple hues. — A.T. freedom, according to Dundas: “Freedom is at the base of the spirit of the brand and I want to keep the Cavalli vibe alive.” Photographs by PIOTR NIEPSUJ ¶ To stay contemporary, Dundas said the lineup includes a range of pieces that can be easily mixed and matched. “It’s Pal rich, a bit decadent, casual, effortless. Zileri It doesn’t feel stiff,” he said, noting that This is a season of debuts for Italian luxury men’s wear brand Roberto his goal is to “bring some casualness to ¬ Italian tailoring label Pal Zileri Boglioli. ¶ The company is not only hosting its first runway show, to has taken the plunge. On Jan. 16, it Cavalli the brand [even] in moments of high will host its first show on the Milan be held Jan. 17 at Milan’s Società del Giardino, it is also unveiling the glamour.” ¶ To that point, jackets and Fashion Chamber’s official schedule, inaugural collection designed by Davide Marello, the first creative featuring the collection from creative Peter Dundas is going to reveal a piece coats are decorated with gold and silver director Mauro Ravizza Krieger. director to be appointed by the label. ¶ Before joining Boglioli in of himself at his debut men’s collection embroideries, appliqués and patchwork “The idea behind the collection November, Marello worked for more than nine years at with is urban tailoring with a strong for Roberto Cavalli. ¶ “I feel very details. Many pieces are executed in focus on sportswear,” said Ravizza Frida Giannini and then six months with Alessandro Michele. “I comfortable designing men’s,” he said, opulent jacquards. The designer also Krieger, who joined the company last want to respect the story of the brand, but my goal is to develop it January. “The aesthetic is rooted in “and I’m taking a very personal point of worked in leather that had been treated the company’s DNA. We wanted to through a vision projected toward the future,” said Marello, adding view. I really created a wardrobe that I using varying techniques, as well as fur, develop a collection focused on tai- the collection is focused on “soft tailoring with an experimental loring, but reinterpret it in a contem- wanted for myself and my friends.” ¶ The which he printed with animal patterns. porary way in terms of proportions, approach.” ¶ Men’s suiting fabrics include carded cloths, chevrons, Norwegian designer, who was appointed ¶ In addition, Dundas created patterns volume and materials.” tweeds and Prince of Wales that are washed, treated with various In keeping with the sartorial tradi- creative director of the brand last March, with flora and fauna elements inspired tion of Vicenza, where the company techniques and garment-dyed. ¶ “The goal was to make all the unveils his first men’s collection for by William Morris, used, for example, in is based, coats and jackets are cut materials, from fabrics to leather, as lightweight as possible without in clean, rigid silhouettes. But they’re the Florentine label on Friday night in fluid shirts. ¶ The overall color palette of softened by the more voluminous losing their original [attributes],” Marello said. ¶ As a result, suits, Milan. ¶ “I took two angles in designing the collection includes different tones shapes of the bottoms, including separates and outerwear sport two silhouettes: “One wrapping relaxed, pleated pants. Silk shirts and the collection,” he explained. One is the of purple along with earth hues and scarves add romantic accents. the body, the other more [true] to classic tailoring standards,” he idea of creating a wardrobe that fits a muted shades. ¶ The accessories range In addition, Ravizza Krieger devel- explained. ¶ The color palette is rich in warm, burnt tones, camels oped “luxury sportswear” worked man’s needs and his personal aesthetic. includes a bag featuring a guitarlike strap, in comfortable, informal silhouettes and tobacco combined with cooler hues of blue and sky blue. The other is music. ¶ “I looked at many as well as high- and low-top sneakers and and crafted from traditional drapy The brand also introduced footwear — loafers and Chelsea boots. fabrics treated with special tech- musicians, like Jimmy Page, Mick Jagger, booties in leopard patterns and solid niques such as wool with a protec- “We started from classic, formal silhouettes worked in leather, Keith Richard, Serge Gainsbourg, Jimi washed leathers that provide a lived- tive coating, stretch wool and leather treated and washed to achieve a worn effect,” Marello said. ¶ To accented with technical materials. Hendrix and also George Harrison — my in effect. ¶ “There is no complication,” The rich color palette includes dark complete the lineup, he also designed a small range of bags, such as favorite of The Beatles,” he said. ¶ But Dundas said. “This collection is very close tones of black, military green, purple, clutches and weekend options, crafted from soft materials treated to brown, gray and rust, sometimes beyond that, the collection is rooted in to my heart.” — ALESSANDRA TURRA juxtaposed with camel. — A.T. resemble fabric. — A.T.

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graphic, New York, Vanity Fair and WSJ. The DKNY spring ad Meanwhile, the award for Design will campaign. be between Bon Appétit, GQ, New York, The Pitchfork Review and Wired. Lifestyle-centric publications Bon Appétit; Golf Digest; Harper’s Bazaar; Lucky Peach; Parents; Seventeen and T: TO SHARPEN YOUR LOOK The New York Times Style Magazine will Gioielleria Villa vie for General Excellence in the Service Got a last-minute invite and Lifestyle category. to a dinner gala? To Men’s magazines Esquire and GQ will spice up a run-of-the-mill DKNY: POWER TRIP also fight it out for General Excellence in black suit, stop by the TO PAMPER YOURSELF For their first advertising effort for the News, Sports and Entertainment cat- prestigious Gioielleria Armani Spa DKNY, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Os- egory, along with fellow nominees, Fast Villa for a pair of chic, The Zen, minimal environ- borne set out to capture the power of the Company, New York, The New York Times eccentric cuff links. ment of this spa, located DKNY woman. And to be perfectly clear, Magazine, The New Yorker and News- While surely not a bar- inside Giorgio Armani’s she’s a woman, not a girl. week. For the complete list of nominees, gain, men, too, deserve hotel, can help the fash- Photographed by Lachlan Bailey, the see WWD.com. nice jewels every now ion flock regain balance ads feature model Adrienne Jüliger. “She — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD and then. and a peaceful state of is versatile. She looks youthful, but also 23 Via Alessandro mind — so easy to lose strong and sophisticated. We wanted Manzoni, 20121 after endless shows and a woman who could show all sides of CONDÉ, KARLIE +39-02-804-279 deadlines. herself. Adrienne’s change is subtle,” said 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.; 3 p.m. 31 Via Manzoni, 20121 Chow. Jüliger has walked the runway for TALK CREATIVITY to 7:30 p.m. +39-02-8883-8888 such brands as , Givenchy, Giambat- Karlie Kloss made a cameo at a Condé tista Valli, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and Nast all-staff meeting Thursday morn- Valentino. ing, in which chief executive officer Bob DKNY’S campaign was photographed Sauerberg and chief marketing officer at Studio Red Hook Labs in Brooklyn, N.Y. Edward Menicheschi emphasized the Chow said the focus of the campaign importance of creativity to the company. is clearly the DKNY woman, and that’s “Our content is our soul,” said Sau- TO SHOP LIKE AN ITALIAN TO GET ENERGIZED been a point that the designers have erberg from the 63rd floor of Condé’s Cb The D made previously. Their DKNY customer headquarters at One World Trade Cb shoes are made for Sticking to a workout is not a girl. “We always refer to her as a Center. Several staffers noted that walking in style. If the routine during fash- woman,” said Chow in an interview last artistic director and Vogue editor in chief range of slippers available ion week is hard, but September before their first show for Anna Wintour sat in the front row in the at the Milanese brand’s Davide Rombolotti can DKNY. “The modern woman we envision meeting, “fashion show style,” donning showroom-cum-store are help. The Milanese king has just started getting into her own in sunglasses. not enough, get creative of CrossFit will help terms of career, starting a family, her life Billed as a kickoff to 2016, Sauerberg and order a custom pair. weary showgoers stay is multilayered with different dimensions. talked about the company’s focus on 50 Corso Garibaldi, in shape during the When you’re young, it’s not as complex. mobile and video, and he thanked Wintour 20121 fashion marathon. For us, those complexities and those for her editorial accomplishments. +39-02-3663 -9181 18 Via Buonarroti, dimensions are the interesting pieces Menicheschi then unveiled a new 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. 20149 in determining what she wants to wear,” advertising campaign with the tag line, +39-02-3660-1925 said Chow. “Create. Connect. Condé Nast.” The com- The designers said they felt that in pany tweeted excerpts of the campaign, recent years, DKNY went off course in which bore the hashtag “CreativityIs” as search of an expanded customer base the exec spoke. The video, which was and that the customer got younger and developed by the company’s native younger. “But it didn’t feel authentic to advertising unit 23 Stories, showed what the brand was, it was too young; it behind-the-scenes glimpses of various was just too young for us,” said Chow. cover shoots across the Condé titles, and The spring DKNY campaign is about a featured celebs such as Kendall Jenner, Collections Survival Kit wardrobe that allows the DKNY woman Reese Witherspoon and Ronda Rousey. ● Whether the shows are just too much or there’s a wardrobe malfunction, here are a few hot spots for dining, shopping and working out. to become the focus “not the other way The celebs, most of whom had appeared around,” said Chow. Through the images, on the covers of Condé’s magazines in Chow hoped to show the collection’s 2015, gave excerpts of their definitions versatility. of creativity. Leading up to the campaign By ALESSANDRA TURRA According to Osborne, “We tried to Patrick Demarchelier shot the unveil, Condé top brass asked about 100 capture the power embodied in the DKNY Dior spring campaign. employees to participate by providing woman. She is a multidimensional wom- an who balances all versions of herself with DKNY…she embodies the new gener- TO LOOK YOUR BEST Antica Barbieria Col- ation of powerful. She can be serious but la di Franco Bompieri doesn’t take herself too seriously.” Since 1904, this has The DKNY spring ad images will been the place where launch in global fashion and lifestyle the chicest Milanese publications. The print plan will be sup- take care of their faces plemented by a digital media presence on global fashion and news sites. Forty and hair. Whether a FOR A GOOD MEAL bearded hipster or a Al Garghet percent of the global media budget will baby-faced buyer, this A trip to Milan is never be invested digitally. This is a significant gem in the heart of complete without a step for the brand, which last year in- the city offers a VIP cotoletta. For exquisite vested 5 percent in digital. The company treatment. breaded cutlets, cab also plans to provide behind-the-scenes 3 Via Gerolamo Mo- over to this restaurant visuals of the shoot on its Web site. The rone, 20121 for a yummy meal, in digital component will launch in mid-Feb- +39-02-874-312 satisfying portions. ruary to align with the March issues on 8:30 a.m. to 36 Via Selvanesco, newsstands. 12:30 p.m.; 2:30 p.m. 20142 — LISA LOCKWOOD to 7:30 p.m. +39-02-5346-98

Bob Sauerberg SWAN SONG and Karlie Kloss Raf Simons’ final ready-to-wear collec- at the Condé Nast New York Magazine’s tion for Dior is showcased in the French meeting. house’s spring 2016 campaign, slated “Cosby” cover. to break on Jan. 19 in Harper’s Bazaar in the U.S. and In Style in Korea, followed by JOURNALISM’S ed The Atlantic, The Hollywood Reporter, News Magazine, Buzzfeed News, Car and their own “creative selfies.” The cam- Harper’s Bazaar Japan, Vogue France National Geographic, New York and The Driver, Eater, Family Fun, The Huffington paign, which will live on the Web, will also and Elle China the next day. Outdoor BIG NIGHT TO MEET UP New Yorker. The organization said 24 Post, The Huffington Post Highline, The include advertising displays in trade pub- treatments are to debut in Hong Kong on It might not be as glitzy as the Oscars, The Botanical Club titles nabbed multiple nominations led by Intercept, Lucky Peach, the Marshall lications and around New York in subway Jan. 23. but for magazine publishers, winning a Drinking a well-con- New York with nine. A perennial favorite, Project, ProPublica and WSJ. stations and at Grand Central Terminal. Patrick Demarchelier shot a cast of National Magazine Award still affords FOR A QUICK FIX cocted gin and tonic New York also had the most nominations ASME gave Annie Leibovitz a shout- The 30-minute meeting, which was young models in a series of group por- substantial bragging rights in a surviv- Turi Lacci E is always a good way in 2015 with 10 and nine in 2014. out for her nomination in Feature Pho- live-streamed to employees at satellite of- traits that Dior described as “an homage al-of-the-fittest industry. Lucidi di Zappala’ to relax after a long The New York Times Magazine tography for her Caitlyn Jenner photos fices, ended with a splash — in true Condé to femininity, glamor and modernity.” On Thursday, The American Society Giuseppe & Co. work day. This new hot grabbed seven nominations this year, the for Vanity Fair’s story, “He Says Goodbye, style — when Kloss addressed employees. Models Sofia Mechetner, Roos Abels, of Magazine Editors unveiled their slate Italians are obsessed spot is gaining a rep in most for the title since 2011 when it had She Says Hello.” It also highlighted the The statuesque model gave a quick Staz Lindes, Maartje Verhoef, Grace Hart- of nominees for the 50th annual National with shoes. This famous Milan for its selection nine. Other multifinalists included GQ Essays and Criticism category, pointing synopsis of her definition of creativity, zel and Binx Walton had their windblown Magazine Awards or “Ellies,” which will store a few steps from Pi- of great gins. And the (six nominations); The New Yorker (five); to GQ’s “The Accident” by Michael Pater- which included “taking risks” and having hair done by Duffy and low-key makeup take place on Feb. 1 at the Grand Hyatt in azza San Babila offers a creative dinner menu Bon Appétit (four), and Matter, National niti, who earned his ninth Ellie nomination “courage.” applied by Peter Philips. New York. wide range of treatments won’t disappoint, either. Geographic and Poetry, each with three. this year. “Whether you write code or copy,” it An accompanying digital film is to Sixty-seven media organizations were to give old footwear 11 Via Pastrengo, Vice Magazine and Vice News combined Duking it out for the award in excel- is all creative, she noted, before ribbing launch on Dior’s Web sites and social nominated in 21 categories this year. Five favorites new life. 20159 for three nominations. lence in Photography will be The Califor- Sauerberg about his height, as they took media from Jan. 20. magazines were nominated for the top 19 Via Cerva, 20122 +39-02-3652-3846 Newcomer nominees included BBC nia Sunday Magazine, National Geo- a selfie. — A.S. — MILES SOCHA prize of Magazine of the Year, and includ-

+39-02-7600-2947 6:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. @marinalarroude of courtesy photograph Kloss

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