Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club

hances are the last time you sat down for a nice meal in , you passed over the local reds and whites. If you dismissed Mexican wine for Mexico’s wine industry is flourishing, no kidding. presumed lack of quality, it’s time to give the by Shaun Tolson region a serious try. Of late, wineries have been popping up across the country. “It is a young and dynamic industry,” says Mónica de la Torre, a sommelier at the Four Seasons Resort Punta CMita. “The people behind the Mexican wine industry are full of passion and commitment to produce top-quality .” In fact, Mexico is home to the oldest winery in the , Casa Madero (madero.com.mx), founded in 1597. The country’s wine-producing history can be traced to the Spanish conquistadors, who planted hundreds of thousands of vines to produce wines for their local missions. Among Mexico’s nine wine-producing regions, the valleys of are the most revered and established, in large part for their Mediterranean-like climate. According to Fernando Aguilar, the director of food and beverage at Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club in Cabo San Lucas, about 90 percent of Mexico’s wine is produced in Baja, with the other 10 percent produced at Chihuahua, Coahuila, Querétaro, Cacatecas, Guanajuato, and . An uptick in requests for Mexican wines by Chileno Bay club members is linked to significant growth in Valle de Guadalupe, known for refined and elegant Bordeaux-style blends. “In the mid-’90s there were only 10 wineries in Guadalupe Valley, Ensenada Baja California,” Aguilar says. “Now there are more than 120.” The number of visitors who come to the valley to tour its wineries and purchase cases in person is rising every year. w

Traveling to Mexico is the best way to develop an appreciation for local wines and their nuances. These labels come recommended by top beverage managers Mónica de la Torre of Four Seasons Resort Punta LABELS TO KNOW Mita and Fernando Aguilar of Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club.

Producer: HACIENDA ENCINILLAS Producer: DURAND VITICULTURA Producer: CASA MADERO Clockwise from opposite page: Valle de Guadelupe; (vinosencinillas.com) in Valle de Encinillas (ferrer.com.mx) in Ensenada (madero.com.mx) in Valle de Parras, Coahuila Casa Madero shiraz; Ícaro barrels from Durand Viticultura; Marcel, Coco, and Ala Rota wines Wine: Megacero Wine: Ícaro Wine: Casa Grande from Durand Viticultura; selections from Varietal: Bordeaux-style blend of , Varietal: -based blend Varietal: Shiraz Fernando Aguilar at the Chileno Bay Golf & shiraz, and cabernet sauvignon Beach Club in Cabo San Lucas. Description: “Speaks of the soil, weather, Description: “This flagship wine shows the Description: “Fantastic complexity and and winemaker Jose Durand’s hand.” concentration and elegance that Parras Valley power.” —Mónica de la Torre —Fernando Aguilar has to offer.” —Fernando Aguilar Opposite, arturogi/iStock

[138 Fall 2017 ] Fall 2017 139 Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club

hances are the last time you sat down for a nice WINE meal in Mexico, you passed over the local reds and whites. If you dismissed Mexican wine for Mexico’s wine industry is flourishing, no kidding. presumed lack of quality, it’s time to give the by Shaun Tolson region a serious try. Of late, wineries have been popping up across the country. “It is a young and dynamic industry,” says Mónica de la Torre, a sommelier at the Four Seasons Resort Punta CMita. “The people behind the Mexican wine industry are full of passion and commitment to produce top-quality wines.” In fact, Mexico is home to the oldest winery in the Americas, Casa Madero (madero.com.mx), founded in 1597. The country’s wine-producing history can be traced to the Spanish conquistadors, who planted hundreds of thousands of vines to produce wines for their local missions. Among Mexico’s nine wine-producing regions, the valleys of Baja California are the most revered and established, in large part for their Mediterranean-like climate. According to Fernando Aguilar, the director of food and beverage at Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club in Cabo San Lucas, about 90 percent of Mexico’s wine is produced in Baja, with the other 10 percent produced at Chihuahua, Coahuila, Querétaro, Cacatecas, Guanajuato, and Aguascalientes. An uptick in requests for Mexican wines by Chileno Bay club members is linked to significant growth in Valle de Guadalupe, known for refined and elegant Bordeaux-style blends. “In the mid-’90s there were only 10 wineries in Guadalupe Valley, Ensenada Baja California,” Aguilar says. “Now there are more than 120.” The number of visitors who come to the valley to tour its wineries and purchase cases in person is rising every year. w

Traveling to Mexico is the best way to develop an appreciation for local wines and their nuances. These labels come recommended by top beverage managers Mónica de la Torre of Four Seasons Resort Punta LABELS TO KNOW Mita and Fernando Aguilar of Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club.

Producer: HACIENDA ENCINILLAS Producer: DURAND VITICULTURA Producer: CASA MADERO Clockwise from opposite page: Valle de Guadelupe; (vinosencinillas.com) in Valle de Encinillas (ferrer.com.mx) in Ensenada (madero.com.mx) in Valle de Parras, Coahuila Casa Madero shiraz; Ícaro barrels from Durand Viticultura; Marcel, Coco, and Ala Rota wines Wine: Megacero Wine: Ícaro Wine: Casa Grande from Durand Viticultura; selections from Varietal: Bordeaux-style blend of merlot, Varietal: Nebbiolo-based blend Varietal: Shiraz Fernando Aguilar at the Chileno Bay Golf & shiraz, and cabernet sauvignon Beach Club in Cabo San Lucas. Description: “Speaks of the soil, weather, Description: “This flagship wine shows the Description: “Fantastic complexity and and winemaker Jose Durand’s hand.” concentration and elegance that Parras Valley power.” —Mónica de la Torre —Fernando Aguilar has to offer.” —Fernando Aguilar Opposite, arturogi/iStock

[138 Fall 2017 ] Fall 2017 139 Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club

SPIRITS The essence of agave-based spirits, distilled. Plus, what to try now. by Dan Dunn

As far as up-and-coming regions, bottles and cases from esteemed in Chihuahua, a region in north central Mexican wineries like Durand Viticultura Mexico at 4,500 feet, Aguilar explains, (ferrer.com.mx) and Adobe Guadalupe “[That elevation] translates into more (adobeguadalupe.com). But the majority oday when you walk into concentrated and expressive wines.” De of Mexico’s wines are not exported, which a decent store, it’s la Torre at Four Seasons likes Valle de means oenophiles must travel to try them. not uncommon to see as Ojos Negros in Northern Baja to rival Valle As the word gets out, Mexican resorts many as 40 high-quality craft de Guadalupe. Rich in calcareous and clay are seeing greater demand for domestic and vying soils, the region benefits from continuous labels. for your attention. Wind the fresh water from the Sierra de Juarez Juan Pablo Loza, executive chef at clock back just 20 years, though, and mountain range and its location at 2,600 Rosewood Mayakoba, reports that his you’d be looking at two or three lonely help to think of them like the one year) versions of the same feet—which she says “gives the vines an guests order Mexican wines about 85 Tproducts, often larded with caramel of the British Isles. Tequila is more like side by side. opportunity to cool during the night and percent of the time. Adobe Guadalupe color and nonagave filler ingredients. gin—clean, refined, and consistent. If you already know your Casa retain acidity.” She describes wines from now produces a blend of cabernet There’s no question we are living through is more like Scotch—smoky, Dragones from your Chinaco, then it’s this region as fresh and balanced. sauvignon, shiraz/, and nebbiolo a golden age for tequila drinkers. funky, unpredictable, and made by a host time to dive into the wild and wooly Some US wine shops, like The Wine called Polvo de Mar made exclusively “The premium tequila market of highly idiosyncratic producers. In the world of mezcal. Selection varies wildly Connection in Del Mar, CA, can procure for the resort. really started to emerge with the past decade, there’s been a massive rise from state to state (and even city to city), introduction of Patrón [in 1989],” says in quality mezcal availability stateside, so it’s hard to predict if, say, Del Maguey Jacques Bezuidenhout, one of America’s with brands such as Del Maguey, Vago, Ibérico (delmaguey.com) or Mezcal Los foremost authorities on tequila. “It had Koch el Mezcal, and El Jolgorio leading Javis Cerrudo (mezcallosjavis.com) is a premium look and feel at a time when the way. There are so many new mezcals available where you live. But make sure we hadn’t seen much of that in the on the market it can be hard to keep up, to get a few different bottles for your tequila category. Suddenly tequila was even for people who follow the industry comparison. Likely, the differences will LABELS TO KNOW (con’t) cool, and people were willing to pay for professionally. be vast. w Producer: ADOBE GUADALUPE that style and image.” If you want advice, don’t worry about Producer: BODEGAS HENRI (adobeguadalupe.com) in Valle de Guadalupe, Over the last 20 years, inspired by becoming an expert, just dive into the Producer: QUINTA MONASTERIO LURTON (bodegashenrilurton.com) in Valle Ensenada the rampant success of Patrón, smaller deep end. If you haven’t sampled the new (quintamonasterio.com.mx) in Valle de de Guadalupe, Ensenada producers have been trying to crack the wave of high-end tequilas, see what all Guadalupe, Ensenada Wine: Kerubiel Clockwise from opposite top: Wine: Chenin Centenario US market, with brands like El Tesoro, the fuss is about by picking up a bottle Adobe Guadalupe; Tequila Wine: Natal Varietal: Blend of syrah, cinsault, , Tequila Ocho, Fortaleza, and Siete of (ochotequila.com), Varietal: Tequila Ocho Patrón barrels; roasting agaves. Varietal: and mourverdre Leguas finding similar success. All of Tequila Fortaleza (tequilafortaleza Description: “Crafted like a handmade Description: “Like a Mexican Chateauneuf which has paved the way for Mexico’s .com), or Roca Patrón (patrontequila.com). Description: “An amazing, beautiful, white purse—everything fits and feels just right. du Pape. Fresh and complex. It ages OG spirit, mezcal, to make a comeback. To understand what aging does to crisp, acidic, and fresh fruit–driven wine.” So many layers and aromas, each glass feels To understand the difference tequila, taste the blanco, reposado —Fernando Aguilar beautifully and speaks of the Guadalupe like a new story.” —Mónica de la Torre Studios. Opposite top, Smith/iStock. Cordero right, Brian Finke/Gallery Stock; bottle Del Maguey, Top Valley terroir.” —Fernando Aguilar between tequila and mezcal, it might (aged 3–12 months), and anejo (aged [140 Fall 2017 ] Fall 2017 141 Chileno Bay Golf & Beach Club

SPIRITS The essence of agave-based spirits, distilled. Plus, what to try now. by Dan Dunn

As far as up-and-coming regions, bottles and cases from esteemed in Chihuahua, a region in north central Mexican wineries like Durand Viticultura Mexico at 4,500 feet, Aguilar explains, (ferrer.com.mx) and Adobe Guadalupe “[That elevation] translates into more (adobeguadalupe.com). But the majority oday when you walk into concentrated and expressive wines.” De of Mexico’s wines are not exported, which a decent liquor store, it’s la Torre at Four Seasons likes Valle de means oenophiles must travel to try them. not uncommon to see as Ojos Negros in Northern Baja to rival Valle As the word gets out, Mexican resorts many as 40 high-quality craft de Guadalupe. Rich in calcareous and clay are seeing greater demand for domestic tequilas and mezcals vying soils, the region benefits from continuous labels. for your attention. Wind the fresh water from the Sierra de Juarez Juan Pablo Loza, executive chef at clock back just 20 years, though, and mountain range and its location at 2,600 Rosewood Mayakoba, reports that his you’d be looking at two or three lonely help to think of them like the liquors one year) versions of the same tequila feet—which she says “gives the vines an guests order Mexican wines about 85 Tproducts, often larded with caramel of the British Isles. Tequila is more like side by side. opportunity to cool during the night and percent of the time. Adobe Guadalupe color and nonagave filler ingredients. gin—clean, refined, and consistent. If you already know your Casa retain acidity.” She describes wines from now produces a blend of cabernet There’s no question we are living through Mezcal is more like Scotch—smoky, Dragones from your Chinaco, then it’s this region as fresh and balanced. sauvignon, shiraz/syrah, and nebbiolo a golden age for tequila drinkers. funky, unpredictable, and made by a host time to dive into the wild and wooly Some US wine shops, like The Wine called Polvo de Mar made exclusively “The premium tequila market of highly idiosyncratic producers. In the world of mezcal. Selection varies wildly Connection in Del Mar, CA, can procure for the resort. really started to emerge with the past decade, there’s been a massive rise from state to state (and even city to city), introduction of Patrón [in 1989],” says in quality mezcal availability stateside, so it’s hard to predict if, say, Del Maguey Jacques Bezuidenhout, one of America’s with brands such as Del Maguey, Vago, Ibérico (delmaguey.com) or Mezcal Los foremost authorities on tequila. “It had Koch el Mezcal, and El Jolgorio leading Javis Cerrudo (mezcallosjavis.com) is a premium look and feel at a time when the way. There are so many new mezcals available where you live. But make sure we hadn’t seen much of that in the on the market it can be hard to keep up, to get a few different bottles for your tequila category. Suddenly tequila was even for people who follow the industry comparison. Likely, the differences will LABELS TO KNOW (con’t) cool, and people were willing to pay for professionally. be vast. w Producer: ADOBE GUADALUPE that style and image.” If you want advice, don’t worry about Producer: BODEGAS HENRI (adobeguadalupe.com) in Valle de Guadalupe, Over the last 20 years, inspired by becoming an expert, just dive into the Producer: QUINTA MONASTERIO LURTON (bodegashenrilurton.com) in Valle Ensenada the rampant success of Patrón, smaller deep end. If you haven’t sampled the new (quintamonasterio.com.mx) in Valle de de Guadalupe, Ensenada producers have been trying to crack the wave of high-end tequilas, see what all Guadalupe, Ensenada Wine: Kerubiel Clockwise from opposite top: Wine: Chenin Centenario US market, with brands like El Tesoro, the fuss is about by picking up a bottle Adobe Guadalupe; Tequila Wine: Natal Varietal: Blend of syrah, cinsault, grenache, Tequila Ocho, Fortaleza, and Siete of (ochotequila.com), Varietal: Chenin blanc Tequila Ocho Patrón barrels; roasting agaves. Varietal: Chardonnay and mourverdre Leguas finding similar success. All of Tequila Fortaleza (tequilafortaleza Description: “Crafted like a handmade Description: “Like a Mexican Chateauneuf which has paved the way for Mexico’s .com), or Roca Patrón (patrontequila.com). Description: “An amazing, beautiful, white purse—everything fits and feels just right. du Pape. Fresh and complex. It ages OG spirit, mezcal, to make a comeback. To understand what aging does to crisp, acidic, and fresh fruit–driven wine.” So many layers and aromas, each glass feels To understand the difference tequila, taste the blanco, reposado —Fernando Aguilar beautifully and speaks of the Guadalupe like a new story.” —Mónica de la Torre Studios. Opposite top, Sherry Smith/iStock. Cordero right, Brian Finke/Gallery Stock; bottle Del Maguey, Top Valley terroir.” —Fernando Aguilar between tequila and mezcal, it might (aged 3–12 months), and anejo (aged [140 Fall 2017 ] Fall 2017 141