Boat Speed Seminar

Sequoia Yacht Club 2019 Presented by: Stan Phillips and Tim Anto Sequoia Seminars for 2019

• March 6. Race strategy is about planning ahead for a race, to gain insight about wind, currents, and hazards/obstacles on the course. This seminar is specific to the race venue south of the San Mateo Bridge. • March 20. Boat Speed is about making the boat go fast by adjusting plan, sail trim, crew position, efficiently, steering for flat water or waves, and monitoring VMG. • April 3. Racing Rules is a review of the most important racing rules to prevent collision on the race course. • April 10. Race Tactics is a seminar on implementing the race strategy, adjusting for racing boats and other obstacles on the course. Let’s get to know each-other… Some icebreaker questions

1. How many years of race experience do you have? 2. What is your preferred position on the boat? 3. Does the boat you race carry a ? 4. More than one spinnaker? 5. Do you have polars for the boat you race? 6. Do you do well on windy days? Light air days? 7. Can your helmsperson see your tell-tales? 8. Does the boat you race rate more or less than 100? • Skipper Nine crew positions – • Helm • Tactician Which one matters most to • Main trimmer • Jib trimmer(s) boat performance? • Deck crew (Foredeck, , Pit, etc.) • Railmeat Objectives After completing this class, sail 0.2 knot One tenth knot faster for a 5 mile faster (4% faster) on average. With race equals 24 practice, you should: boatlengths at the • Remember all the controls available to affect finish line sail shape • Know how to use those controls in varying conditions – Tension on halyards, outhaul, , and vang – Position of crew, fairleads and traveler • Adapt to changing race conditions

The class is intended to promote • Safe conduct of races • Friendly competition Resume of Stan Phillips

• Fifteen years of racing experience on a Flying Scot, a Catalina 27, a Hunter 29, a J-29, a J-109, an Archambeault 40, a and a . • ASA sailing instructor since 1996. USCG 6-pac since 2017. • Competed as skipper on chartered boats in 5 Heineken Regattas, finishing 8th in class in 2008 and 4th in class in 2010. Winner of the Sequoia Yacht Club summer series in 2010 on a chartered J29. Boats owned: • Flying Scot - approximately 1975 – 1980, sailed on the Potomac River • Farr 30 – September 2012 to present, sail on San Francisco Bay Sailing Resume of Tim Anto

Avid sailor of 35-years. Started as a junior sailor (age 9, in 1984) at Longshore Sailing Program in Westport, CT.

As a teen, I raced keelboats with my father and friends at local yacht clubs on Long Island Sound to Newport, RI. Competed in College Sailing for the University of Connecticut.

Learned most of my boat handling and racing skills through many years of 1D racing and Frostbite Racing in New England: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SiJypz7wFmk

Recent accomplishments: 2018 Express 37 National Champion “Limitless” , trim 2018 Great Pumpkin Regatta 1st, SF30 Div, “Friction Loss” 2017 Encinal Regatta 1st, PHRF 4 2016 Newport-Ensenada. 1st in Div, “Avanti”

Boats owned: . 2000- 2005. J/100 2005- 2008. 2008 - Present Speed Factors

1. Boat preparation (good , clean , tuned rig, no excess weight) 2. Active trimming (adjust for changes in wind speed and waves) 3. Efficient boat handling (tacks, gybes, mark roundings) Boat preparation Bottom: Diver or self- Dry Diver Lube: Clean & McLube traveler and headfoil Tell tails: Cassette tape on shrouds & backstay Weight: Remove all non-essentials (it adds up!) Minimize crew luggage Do not stow items in bow or stern. Settings: Mark line, jib leads, & halyards Eliminate , lock Jib leads Mast Tuning 1-2-3

1. Is mast centered? (side to side) – Highest halyard to beam deck joint method – Bucket Method 2. Upper Shroud Tension – Record your light, medium, and heavy turns from base – Call your turns OUT LOUD! 3. Go sailing, adjust lowers on the wind – Adjust lowers and intermediates until mast is straight straight while sighting up the mainsail track. – Explore 0.5-1” of mast sag to power-up for light winds

Safety Briefing • Hazards: –Collisions –Gear breakage –Slips and falls –Crew overboard • Video of close encounter in the Westpoint Regatta: https://youtu.be/Vz28kZFTPEA Speed Gremlins 1. Pinching 2. Overtrimming 3. Overpowered (round ups) 4. Excess 5. Pounding in waves Sequoia Race Marks The Upwind Challenge

Go fast in the right direction! Measuring performance

1. Comparison to target boat speed

a. Know your boat’s target speeds (polars)

b. Instruments: GPS SOG, knotmeter, VMG

2. Communication between helm and trimmer

3. Comparison to other boats Audience Participation Question

• You feel like you are sailing too slow – One design: the fleet is leaving you behind – PHRF: you are 0.5 knot below target speed

• What do you do? Polars

No sail zone Velocity Made Good (VMG)

There are four possibilities when comparing to another boat: • Higher, Faster Course SOG VMG • Higher, Slower 55 4.0 2.3 60 5.0 2.5 • Lower, Faster 65 5.2 2.2 • Lower, Slower Communication from helm to trimmer

Light touch If you have a case of the “slows”

Andrew Kerr’s advice: 1. Ease Sheets 2. Ease Backstay 3. Crew weight – constant heel 4. Other adjustments – cunningham, vang, halyards

Let’s Explore why this is good advice Steering using the jib tell tales Mainsail trim for racing Tell tales all stalled, too much angle of Tell tales all streaming, possibly too little attack angle of attack Mainsail basic trim. Not too much, not too little

Sheet on until the top tell tale is stalling 30% to 50% of the time and the others are streaming cleanly.

Then steer to tell tale or trim to windshifts. Jib basic trim, luff and leech

Adjust until lower luff tell tales are both flowing. Adjust jib car position until leech tell tale is flowing. How do jib and main combine?

Jib leech has a profound effect on performance and we need to pay attention to it.

wind

Combined airflow Combined airflow puts Because the main is in a puts jib luff into a lift main luff into a header header and jib in a lift, we and reduces air and increases the air sheet the main at a much velocity velocity closer angle than the jib The understated effect of the jib leech Undersheeted jib

Wide slot Separation and turbulence on back of mainsail

wind The understated effect of the jib leech Oversheeted jib

Separation and turbulence on back of jib

Very narrow slot

wind

Backwinding of main The understated effect of the jib leech Correctly sheeted jib

Laminar flow both sides of jib

Jib helps air stay attached to back of main

Optimal slot

Some laminar wind separation, but no turbulence Setting , or how ‘full’ should a sail be?

wind Draft is the ratio of depth to length.

The position of maximum draft is measured back from the luff

Deep sails tend to have a very ‘blunt’ entry- the curve tends to accumulate at the mast.

A sail can only adjust draft within its build parameters. Compare a mainsail to a spinnaker, for example. How do sails really work? Wind exiting From the work of Arvel Gentry (gentrysailing.com) the trailing edge of the sail Wind hitting leading edge of the sail

The energy required to displace the air that’s deflected by the sail is the energy that is input to the boat hull and which drives the Air has been boat forward. displaced by Parallel to this amount Input energy is proportional to mass of air wind moved, x distance that it is moved. direction Twist

• Twist is the relative trim of the sail high and low • Lots of twist = upper part open • Favors speed and acceleration • Use in waves to reduce power Twist (part 2)

• Less twist = closed leach, better pointing • Shape and twist of main and jib should be matched Sail at optimum angle of heel • For most boats, it is approximately 20 degrees • Andrew Kerr’s advice: sail 2 degrees flatter – Be the first to have crew on the rail • As wind speed builds, depower sails: – add twist in main and jib • travel down, vang off, move jib lead back – reduce maximum draft (tighten outhaul) – reduce headstay sag (tighten jib halyard and backstay) – reef Win the Lulls

• It is more important to adjust sail controls when wind is lighter Sail Controls

Mainsail controls Jib controls • Main Sheet • Jib Sheet • Outhaul • Halyard • Halyard • Backstay • Cunningham • Furling • Boomvang • Lead cars • Backstay • Traveler • Wind ranges for this discussion

• Baseline is 8 to 10 kts • Moderate Breeze is 11 to 16 kts • Heavy Air is more than 17 kts • Light air is less than 7 kts Upwind Sail Controls - Baseline

Mainsail controls Jib controls • Main Sheet – at C/L • Jib Sheet – telltales streaming • Outhaul - foot 4 inches off • Halyard - 8 inch headstay sag • Halyard – no wrinkles in luff • Backstay – 8 inch headstay sag • Cunningham – no luff wrinkles • Furling - fully unfurled • Boomvang - off • Backstay – barely on • Lead cars – even break for teltales top to bottom • Traveler – above C/L • Reefing - no Upwind Sail Controls - Moderate breeze

Mainsail controls Jib controls • Main Sheet – boom slightly • Jib Sheet – telltales streaming, below C/L inner telltale may lift to 45 degrees • Outhaul - foot 2 inches off • Halyard - tighter • Halyard – no wrinkles in luff • Backstay – less headstay sag • Cunningham – tighten, moves • draft forward Furling - fully unfurled • Boomvang - off • Lead cars – move aft to • Backstay – add 50% twist off top of jib • Traveler – at C/L • Reefing - no Upwind Sail Controls - Heavy Air

Mainsail controls Jib controls • Main Sheet – boom below • Jib Sheet – telltales streaming C/L • Halyard - minimum headstay sag • Outhaul - max on • Backstay – minimum headstay • Halyard – no wrinkles in luff sag • Cunningham – full on, moves • draft forward Furling - partially furled • Boomvang - off • Lead cars – forward to twist • Backstay – max on top of jib • Traveler – below C/L • Reefing - yes Upwind Sail Controls - Light Air

Mainsail controls Jib controls • Main Sheet – boom at C/L • Jib Sheet – telltales streaming • Outhaul - foot 4 inches off • Halyard – ease • Halyard – ease to wrinkles • Backstay – 8 inch headstay sag in luff • Cunningham – eased • Furling - fully unfurled • Boomvang – on slightly to • Lead cars – even break for steady the boom in waves telltales top to bottom • Backstay – barely on • Traveler – above C/L • Reefing - no Active Trimming

Close hauled • Actively trim the main • Keep the boat heel at optimum angle (15 to 20 degrees) by easing into gusts Close Reach • Actively trim the main • Actively trim the jib Control of weather helm

Weather helm adds drag that slows the boat Balance jib and main (often need more power in jib, less in main) What creates weather helm?

Red is the dynamic center of pressure of the (of both sails).

Blue is the center of resistance of the hull, and rudder.

Note that these are dynamic positions and change based on speed ad .

When the center of pressure of the sail is behind the center of resistance, then the boat will want to turn into the wind.

We counter this by applying weather helm to the tiller and angling the rudder between 5° and 8° to windward. With too much weather helm, we have the brakes on

Rudder at 0°, no weather helm, minimum drag

Rudder at 3° to 8°, optimal angle for sailing upwind

8° to 16°, comfortable, but slow

Greater that ~16°, the separation point goes way forward and the rudder stalls out.

Once stalled, the rudder can no longer steer the boat Managing weather helm some is good, too much isn’t Change the pressure on the rudder by moving the centre of pressure of the sailplan forward toward the centre of resistance.

Avoid excessive heel, play the mainsheet

Move sail draft forward by increasing halyard tensions (main and jib)

Flatten both sails by increasing backstay tension

Twist off both sails, move jib car back and ease mainsheet with traveler high

Move the mainsheet traveler down

Reef the main Communication from helm to trimmer

Light touch Audience Participation Question

• You feel like you are sailing too slow on port tack, but OK on Starboard

• What do you do? Pointing for best VMG

Boom on centerline Boat at optimum angle of heel Crew weight forward to avoid dragging the stern Efficient Tacking

Goal is to lose less than 2 knots of speed Procedure – Helm – rate of turn 30/30/30 slow/fast/slow, – Main – traveler down until speed rebuilds – Jib – time release, allow for speed build Video of a tack

• https://youtu.be/bRAvrFnLfoU Upwind tasks at the helm

1. Sail to the next mark 2. Focus on angle (AWA) 3. Tack when advised by the tactician 4. Adjust steering for waves Upwind tasks for the main trimmer

1. Steer the boat 2. Shape the main for optimum speed 3. Keep the boat at optimum heel angle by responding to wind variation (de-power in puffs) a) Sheet out, or b) Traveler down 4. Tacking: realign the traveler 5. Monitor boat speed/crew performance Upwind tasks for the jib trimmer

1. Shape the jib for optimum speed 2. Trim the jib (watch the telltales) 3. On the rail most of the time if close hauled 4. Tacking – release when sail is luffing, trim in quickly on new side Upwind tasks at the mast and pit

1. Haul the halyards for the hoists 2. Adjust vang, cunningham, and outhaul 3. On the rail most of the time if close hauled 4. Change sides during a tack Changing gears to go downwind

1. Ease main 2. Ease jib 3. Ease outhaul 4. Ease backstay 5. Ease cunningham 6. Traveler down 7. Add vang Polars

DDW is not as fast Downwind tasks at the helm

1. Sail to the next mark 2. Commands for hoist 3. Steer average constant apparent wind angle, down in puffs, surf if possible 4. Gybe when advised by the tactician 5. Execute gybe commands a) Symmetric b) Asymetric 6. Commands for douse Downwind tasks for the main trimmer 1. Ease the main, ease outhaul, ease backstay 2. Traveler down 3. Gybing : Haul the main across the centerline 4. Monitor boat speed/crew performance Downwind tasks for the guy trimmer

1. Keep the pole perpendicular to the wind 2. Gybing – ease guy until pole is “made” then trim Downwind tasks at the mast and pit

1. Haul the halyards for the hoists 2. Adjust vang, cunningham, and outhaul 3. Adjust pole height 4. Weight is midboat in light wind, aft in breeze 5. Foreguy eased to allow pole to move back Downwind tasks for the bow

1. Prepare headsail for the hoist 2. Jump the halyard for the hoist 3. Bring down the jib 4. Transfer the pole in gybes a) End-for-end b) Dip pole c) For asym haul clew around 5. Adjust pole height 6. Bring sail into the boat during the douse 7. Help the tactician by reporting observations Sail handling • Jib trimming technique (telltales streaming) • Main trimming technique (bubble at the luff, telltales, helm pressure, heel angle) • Upwind versus downwind trim (when in doubt, let it out) • Pinching vs footing off • Powering up/Depowering/Shortening Sail – Twist – Reef – Backstay What can go wrong when sailing upwind?

• Running aground • Round ups • Overrides • In irons • Collisions • Crew overboard What can go wrong when sailing downwind? • Bad hoist – hourglass or wrap around the forestay • – Round up – Round down • Bad douse (shrimping) • Collisions • Crew overboard • Running aground A death roll is the act of broaching to windward, putting the into the water and causing a crash- of the boom and mainsail, which sweep across the deck and plunge down into the water.

The death roll often results in destruction of the spinnaker pole and sometimes even dismasting of the boat. Serious injury to crew is possible due to the swift and uncontrolled action of the boom and associated gear sweeping across the boat and crashing to the (now) leeward side. Human gybe preventer?

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQDt1Xk 74Mk Review: Speed Factors 1. Boat preparation 2. Active trimming: adjustment for changes in wind speed and waves 3. Efficient maneuvers: tacking, gybing, mark rounding Tactical Mark Rounding 1. Enter the rounding wide. 2. Exit close to the mark.