FOOD trail FOOD OF THE WORKING TRADITIONAL DESSERTS CLASSES & CAKES 15-18 Meat, offal and snails 2-5 Where in ? Polenta, soups and pasta 6-7 Portico d’Ottavia (Ghetto), Pantheon (& sur - Where in Rome? rounding area), San Giovanni, , Pantheon, Garbatella, San Lorenzo, Pinciano, &Testaccio 18 “pilgrims”, Testaccio, Trastevere, , 2-8 MARKETS the ROMAN-JEWISH FOOD Campo de’ Fiori & Testaccio 19 Any tourist travellers, who Artichokes, fried food, soup, fish, WINE FROM THE arriving in Rome for once arrived in lamb & chicken 9-12 CASTELLI ROMANI DISTRICT 20 Rome in their thousands Where in Rome? the first time finds Ghetto 12 CLAMS FROM OSTIA 20 himself in a complex, in search of ancient relics or simply to BREAD & PIZZA 13-14 chaotic city that is still Where in Rome? wrapped up in its more confirm their faith. Pantheon, Campo dei Fiori, Testaccio, than two-thousand year Rome, not only the city Trastevere, San Lorenzo & Prati 14 old history. As he sets out of great emperors and to explore, he will popes, but also of the discover not only many working-class people of the Eternal City’s described by Belli (writer beautiful sites – & poet: 1791-1863), monuments, churches, Goethe’s city of the soul world-famous and of course the archaeological areas and protagonist in many more besides – he is also Fellini films, is now a bound to come across vast metropolis that has some of the many learned to live with all speciality foods enjoyed its contradictions and its for centuries by visiting heritage. But, anyone 1 wanting to get to the thanks to the historic city’s “real” soul need inns and hostelries that only sample some rarely give in to the typical Roman dishes fashion of re-inventing to realise that they traditional dishes and reflect its history - that envelop guests in It’s genuine and simple, an atmosphere in which not by chance made of a few basic aromas emanating from that the place of honour, ingredients, often the kitchen merge with amongst genuine, those that are cheap to the images evoked of a traditional Roman obtain. If you venture past in which charcoal dishes, goes to what is into the lanes and burners, artisans and known as “the fifth backstreets around the the the like spent their lives quarter” (of a butchered Pantheon , you’re bin and fighting to survive - animal) or in other assured an unique certainly within spitting distance words, the offal experience of aromas, not worthy of of of some of Rome’s finer (frattaglie ) – the innards colours, flavours and princes and cardinals. dwellings and palaces. and least expensive colours, a veritable Our “food trails” wind This then is Rome – a pot parts of beef and lamb / journey through a rustic their way through pourri of refined nobility mutton – that would cuisine full of intense working-class and unsophisticated never be selected by flavours; the food of the neighbourhoods where hardworking people anyone even slightly well “real Romans” who have this traditional food used to making do and off and were therefore always lived in these old continues to thrive. somehow remaining usually just thrown city streets and squares, Districts like Trastevere true to themselves away. We’re talking the food that has always and Testaccio that are whilst surrounded by about tripe, kidneys, animated the city’s fairly central, but also the power that heart, livers, spleen, many inns and eateries, those slightly further out resonated in the city sweetbreads, spinal and the type of food that like Garbatella, San deemed to be the capital cord, brains, tongue, never graced the tables Lorenzo and Ostiense of the world for lights (lungs) and tail. of Rome’s powerful where trattorias centuries. Lucky for us, Coratella (pluck) – the aristocracy. It was made abound. In the evening, their culinary traditions liver heart and tongue of humble ingredients, they are the districts have passed from one of a cow cooked up often those destined for most popular with locals generation to the next. together is also popular.

2 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 3 with a slice of ham which is finished off in cooked dish, but no less and sage) are the oven with a tasty for that! just some of sprinkling of grated Snails “Roman style”, the delights pecorino cheese and also known locally as of a plethora some chopped mint. “San Giovanni” (St. of working- John’s) style, were and class dishes. WHERE IN ROME? Although are traditionally cooked Two age-old local these dishes appear on in Roman eateries on the dishes still found in menus all over Rome, night between the 23 rd Roman eateries both from the centre to the and 24 th of June – in use cheap cuts of beef: furthest suburbs, their honour of the saint – the spleen, gently true “home” is, and and served up during a stewed with sage, garlic, always has been sort of street party, still The vinegar, anchovies and Testaccio, today one of held today in the square combination of these pepper, and kidneys the city’s trendiest in front of the Basilica. lowly ingredients result cooked with tomatoes, districts. Its working The ancient festa held in extraordinary dishes onion, parsley, white class origins are on 24 June was, instead, that are flavoursome yet wine and pepper. practically unchanged, dedicated to the delicate, and that Although it rarely and people still Goddess Ceres, hoping to despite their humble appears on menus, and remember how, years invoke fortune and beginnings, caress the is not offal-based, ago, butchers working in wealth and to chase palate. Rigatoni (pasta “garofolato” is a roast the slaughter house away hostile divinities. tubes) with “pajata” eye round of beef were paid in mixture of When it was later (small intestine of an (girello ), stuffed with bits cash and meat - dedicated to St. John, it unweened calf) or of lard, cloves ( chiodo di specifically the fifth maintained its kidneys, pluck with garofano in Italian, quarter. propitiatory function, artichokes or onions, hence the name) and Snails are last, but by no and the “horns” of the Roman-style tripe sliced garlic, pan cooked means least in this short snails represented the (tomato based), oxtail slowly for a couple of list of speciality dishes. devil – evil. In the 19th and other stews, not hours with some celery An essential part of century, it also became a forgetting saltimbocca and tomatoes. This same French haute cuisine, festa dedicated to peace (“leap-in-the mouth” - sauce is also used, here in Rome they are and the various stalls set because it’s so tasty - poured over tripe cooked very much a home- up in the area – serving veal escalope cooked “Trastevere style”,

4 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 5 times. As far back as the of simple but tasty dairy 1st century BC, writers products and tender, Cicero and Horace could flavoursome meat, not get enough of mostly all from the “Laganum”, thin sheets Roman countryside of pasta made of flour which, with its rich, and water, and still fertile soil has always snails of When today you will find managed to supply the course - it outstanding soups made city with all that it became comes from vegetables and/or needs. known as to frugal pulses. Stracciatella and Guanciale (cured pork the stalls of but still brodetto di Pasqua are cheek) pancetta, (bacon), peace or mouth- both enriched by beaten vegetables and pulses concord. watering food, egg, (the latter with an give us dishes that have ANONYMOUS the traditional food even richer broth). become legendary like 18 TH CENTURY RECIPE: of Rome’s working class Cappelletti (stuffed hat- “pasta and fagioli” (& Feed your snails with mint often featured in the shaped pasta) in broth beans) with pork for at least one whole day, works of artists, poets are served at home on fat/skin (cotiche), pasta before soaking them in and writers, particularly special occasions, and in with broccoli, spaghetti plenty of slightly salty water. during the 19 th century, most popular eateries as alla carbonara Next, rinse well under who aimed to depict the an option to all the other (originally made by running water until no more reality of where they pasta dishes known all charcoal makes because scum remains. Take the snails were living. It’s how we over the world, although the few basic out of their shells and boil know that soup and few, elsewhere, can truly ingredients egg and them for a few minutes in pasta dishes abounded reproduce them. What bacon, were easy to take water to which you have and, just like everything lies behind the success to work), bucatini added 2 or 3 spoonfuls of else in Rome – had of Roman cuisine i s the all’amatriciana vinegar. Prepare a tomato distant origins. use of local ingredients (traditional sauce from sauce with some chopped Polenta-like dishes and flavourings which Amatrice in the hills garlic, anchovies, chilli made of spelt flour, as include wonderful behind Rieti, made with pepper and a bunch of mint. well as broad beans, vegetables like broccoli, guanciale, tomatoes, Pour it over the snails and barley and “pultes” (a chicory, artichokes, lard, chilli peppers and continue cooking for at least kind of porridge) were tomatoes and broad pecorino cheese – no an hour. the soups of ancient beans, an amazing array onions or garlic!), or la

6 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 7 and caciotta cheese), arrived in Rome way alla bersagliera (soldiers back in the 2 nd century who march on the run, BC, that fusion was therefore quick to make: inevitable, especially as – tomatoes, garlic, oil, to stay in theme – basic chilli peppers, salami Jewish food, like and provolone cheese). traditional Roman fare, We could go on forever is also features good, but we’re too hungry! simple ingredients “gricia”, an older which, properly version of WHERE IN ROME? combined, prove that l’amatriciana Roman food is a party even the poorest without tomatoes. that just keeps on going, ingredients can be There's also fettuccine day after day all over the transformed into alla romana (meat dish, although this time the city, but, tucking into to something delicious. sauce enriched with some “gricia” or In a very equitable onions, chicken livers tomato sauce is really hot and fiery (hence the “carbonara” in exchange, traditional and breast, mushrooms Trastevere, or Borgo – in Jewish cuisine brought & tomatoes) or alla name) thanks to the addition of lots and lots the shadow of St. Peter’s its influence to bear on papalina (made dome – or in Monti, the typical Roman dishes especially for Pope Pius of chilli pepper! spaghetti city’s oldest district, is in whilst local food XII – like a carbonara but The list of dishes is as long as your a league all of its own. products inspired new with added cured ham “Jewish style” recipes and onions), not arm, but to pick out a few: alla carrettiera Of the whole gamut of too. The meeting of thee forgetting ravioli stuffed Roman food however, it two cuisines form the with ricotta either – all (cart-driver: tomatoes, tuna belly, mushrooms, is Roman-Jewish food basis of the city’s culinary usually served with a that gets the laurels. tradition; in fact it is hard sprinkling of pecorino garlic & chilli pepper), alla puttanesca One of the earliest to tell where the one romano – Roman (prostitute – tomatoes, fusion cuisines, it begins and the other sheep’s cheese. combines and muddles ends. If in Rome in the Penne (pasta) olive, capers & garlic), alla checca (short for up the features, cultures right season, for example, all’arrabbiata (angry) is and food of these two not to try the best yet another favourite Francesca- chopped raw tomatoes, mozzarella great peoples. artichokes in the world Given that the Jews would be a real sin! 8 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 9 made of broccoli and gods of the woods and “arzilla”, the local name those that protected their fo r a delicate white fish, precious flocks of sheep. and a chick pea soup with Varro, ancient Roman “pennerelli” is another author of the 2 nd century must; it dates back to BC described how new- ancient Roman times and born lambs were tied to a the “pennerelli” (little post – ad baculum (hence pens) are actually small abbacchio)- for the first semolina, pieces of meat off cuts; any four months of their lives dipped in melted meat, except of course pork to ensure they did not butter and then which is forbidden under hurt themselves running baked in the oven. Jewish dietary laws. around. One well-known Another tart – made The next stop in our food dish is fried, breaded of sardines and trail continues involves lamb chops, cutlets “a Artichokes artichokes, and a dishes starring lamb – scottadito” meaning are undoubtedly the timballe of ricotta are which only Romans call burned fingers, which is “princes” of Roman also popular. We must abbacchio – that remind what happened to the cuisine and one of the not forget fillets of us that the earliest shepherds when they best ways to try them is baccalà (salt-cod) or Romans were described used “alla giudia” (Jewish courgette flowers either– as a pastoral people with style), briefly soaked in stuffed with mozzarella ties to lemon water then salted and anchovies, fried in a and deep fried in olive light batter – or Rome’s oil. Absolutely delicious! “suppli al telefono” – So too is a “tortino di fried rice balls stuffed alici” in which a pastry with mozzarella that base is layered with stretches out just like a anchovies and endives - telephone wire. Both are a typical Roman early forms of street vegetable – baked and food still much loved then eaten warm or cold. today. There are plenty of Next? “Gnocchi alla soups to try too, the Romana”, made with most famous of which is

10 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 11 their fingers to eat. It had, deported and gobbled after all been cooked on a up by the Nazi machine. griddle or over very hot Today, these narrow charcoal! Oven baked streets in the shadows of originally lamb with potatoes or Rome’s largest a way of pan baked with olives or synagogue, the using up lemon are other imposing Portico of stale bed, traditional dishes to try. Ottavio and the Theatre but it has become Whilst lamb is of Marcellus, are the something we like to traditionally associated setting for a more snack on at any time with Easter, chicken peaceful life, and home or as an hors d’oeuvre. (pollo) is also part of this to a great many Pizza bianca – white sitting great feasting tradition, trattorias offering a pizza – is another Roman down to eat unless there especially when fried wide range of dishes speciality, either thin was some bread on the (fritto) or cooked with representing the best of and crunchy, or thicker table! There can’t be peppers (con pepperoni) Roman-Jewish cuisine. and “dressed” with oil anyone who has never in the dish typically eaten What better way to and sea salt. It is heard of bruschetta – a on Ferragosto (15 August) prove that free men can wonderful with some slice of toasted and indeed did freshly sliced mortadella (bruscato) bread that in WHERE IN ROME? overcome those that or – in the summer – its simplest form is Head for the district represent man’s filled with figs and – for rubbed with a piece of known as the “Ghetto”, inhumanity to man? real foodies – cured ham. garlic, drizzled with oil the area Jews were Some historic bakers and sprinkled with a forced to live, in Whether in ancient, also prepare a simple pinch of salt, but is often segregation, from 1550- medieval or Renaissance pizza rossa – red pizza – enriched by the addition 1870, and still the heart Rome, bread has always with a thin crust cooked of any number of other of Rome’s Jewish been an important on a baking sheet, ingredients such as community. It was here element in the city’s drizzled with oil and tomatoes, peppers, in fact, on 16 October foodscape, omnipresent covered in tomatoes. cheese or even onions. 1943 that women, on the tables of rich and Nothing could be Truly a peasant dish, children and the elderly poor alike; no Roman simpler – and best eaten bruschetta was were rounded up, would ever consider ambling along the

12 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 13 evenings, however, it is good if you are hungry! pizza that reigns supreme: Margherita – If, after all that, you with tomato, are still feeling mozzarella and peckish, try some of basil/oregano, the typical Roman Capriciosa – desserts or cakes sold mozzarella, ham, in most of the city’s mushrooms, pastry shops artichokes and alongside other tomato, con Funghi – famous Italian with mushrooms, or specialities like Prosciutto – ham, or Montblanc (puréed streets actually, anything else chestnuts, cocoa & rum) sultanas; the rolls are around Campo di we might fancy! From and profiteroles. Roman glazed with a simple Marzio. Testaccio to Trastevere, desserts are as simple syrup as soon as they are San Lorenzo to Pigneto and genuine as its main out of the oven and only WHERE IN ROME? and Ostiense to Prati – courses, prepared at filled moments before Wherever you go in the you are truly spoilt for home when there is eating. Their name city, “historic” wood- choice! something special to reflects the tradition of burning, modern electric A poem about bread, celebrate, or on young men presenting or gas ovens send out written by Aldo Fabrizi in important religious young women with wafts of irresistible Roman dialect in 1970, holidays. these sweet rolls during aromas that tempt you entitled “Nonno Pane” ‘Maritozzi’ are perfect the so-called wedding into eating a quick and (Grandpa bread) extols for those with a sweet season, proving they fragrant snack, although the versatility of bread, tooth; soft rolls filled were good potential the areas around the saying that besides with whipped cream husbands –“mariti”. Pantheon and the bruschetta and and served for breakfast Today, the choux buns Campo dei Fiori are panzanella (bread soup) throughout the capital fried and filled with probably the most bread goes well with and beyond. The basic cream – known as inviting as they turn out practically every dough is often enriched “bignè di San Giuseppe” freshly baked bread and ingredient under the with pine nuts, candied are available most of the rolls all day long. In the sun, but it is particularly orange peel and year, but traditionally

14 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 15 dances and the wearing zest, but there is a long of masks. Celebrations list of tempting desserts ended with the Festa in which it stars: fried dei moccoletti, or flavoured with during which practically anything, everyone carried a made into a sort of “moccolo” – a candle custard-like dish – blown out only (budino) and when all was over. It “bocconotti” – marked the beginning biscuits filled of Lent, the period for with a they penitence and fasting. ricotta move, were only Sour cherry (visciole) cream, as perhaps prepared in March, the tarts are another Roman well as during a month dedicated to St. tradition, no doubt ricotta and walk Joseph. Castagnole “alla because the Roman sour cherry along the Romana” are traditional countryside is teeming tarts – the banks of the carnival treats – fried with trees bearing these best of which Tiber. The best choux pastry made with dark red, slightly acidic can be found at Easter cake of all rum, sprinkled with cherries that also make the Portico d’Ottavia. is “pizza ricresciuta” icing sugar and amazing jam. One Christmas must is a.k.a. “pizza dolce”, a cinnamon. Ricotta made from “pangiallo” (yellow leavened cake flavoured Carnival was one of the sheep’s milk is another bread) full of lime zest, with cinnamon and main festas in 18 th essential ingredient in candied orange, pine aniseed seeds, usually century Rome, Roman cakes and nuts and almonds, followed by celebrated just before desserts. In one of the whilst another, called “mostaccioli” which in Lent, although its origins simplest, but seriously “panepepato” (peppery Rome, means hard derive from the ancient elegant desserts, ricotta bread) is made of honey, biscuits containing fried Roman religious feast of is served as is, enhanced walnuts, almonds pine and candied fruit and Saturnalia which only with some sugar, nuts – and cinnamon to honey, or better still, a featured all sorts of chocolate shavings, a tot provide the peppery tasty ice-cream – vanilla, public entertainment, of liqueur and a zing. Both “robust” mint, chocolate, cream orgiastic rites, sacrifices, sprinkling of orange enough to munch on the or strawberry. Or, what

16 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 17 actually first cuts and cheese is those specialising in appeared undoubtedly Campo de’ fresh, tasty and fragrant during Fiori, one of the city’s mixed salad leaves, banquets oldest markets. It’s a whilst fishermen set out hosted by place in which the image their catch and loudly Roman of Rome and all the invite people to buy. emperors as a legends that the cinema, The market in Testaccio sophisticated art and poetry have is also deservedly distraction and later spread throughout the popular. Up until a few reappeared during the world can still be found. years ago it was set up Renaissance when, In the shadow cast by in the district’s main thanks to Catherine de’ the statue of Giordano square, but now has a about Medici and the French Bruno, a 16 th century new home in a covered some “Grattachecca” ? court, “eating cold philosopher and structure next to the old th It’s a typical late 19 things” became all the exponent of free slaughterhouse. It sells century Roman creation rage. thought, you will find an everything and that became a popular explosion of colours and anything. A few of the street food, served in WHERE IN ROME? aromas. Those selling stalls, mentioned kiosks dotted all over the Portico d’Ottavia, the vegetables and enthusiastically in city, althoough those Pantheon, San Giovanni, wines they have prestigious foreign that became especially Prati, Pinciano, produced themselves newspapers, are famous for it were along Trastevere & Testaccio. stand proudly by their certainly worth finding the banks of the Tiber. Let’s end this stalls that are stacked if you want to try a roll The name, gastronomic line up by with broccoli, salad crops filled with tripe or “grattachecca” reflects visiting some markets. and artichokes, various fried items the way it is made: a There are a few streets in pumpkins in a served in a paper cone. huge block of ice – every district that come multitude of shapes and Foodies will be in known as a “checca” is to life every morning sizes, bunches of chilli paradise. grated (grattato) with a when the stalls are set peppers, bunches of red As to the indisputable special tool and fruit up, but the best place to and white grapes and king of Roman juice or syrup is poured go to enjoy a stroll pomegranates. Stalls gastronomy, our local over the shavings. Snow amongst an array of selling spices can also wine is served in every or ice mixed with fruit vegetables, meats, cold still to be found, as can traditional trattoria and

18 www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it www.turismoroma.it - www.060608.it 19 FOOD trail historic eatery some traditional (fraschetta) in the “porchetta” - slices of capital. Red, white, rosé, pork from a whole slow- sparkling and roasted pig stuffed with “tantalizing”, it used to aromatic herbs. be transported from the To complete your surrounding countryside gastronomic journey, and the Castelli district why not go to Ostia to on traditional wine try some spaghetti with carts. A visit to the clams (telline) – at Castelli district to taste it sunset maybe, when the is certainly worthwhile, sea beyond Rome’s perhaps accompanied by ancient port turns pink.

Centro storico San Lorenzo Pigneto Trastevere San Giovanni Testaccio Garbatella

Ostia

Castelli romani

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