SanGateway toDiego & Islas Coronados Text and photos by Larry Cohen and Olga Torrey 14 X-RAY MAG : 89 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO LARRY COHEN OLGA TORREY travel San Diego

OLGA TORREY

OLGA TORREY San Diego sunrise and sunset (right)

San Diego, a major coastal ships. One of the wrecks city in Southern California, divers can find here is the HMCS , which was a USA, has a thriving dive Mackenzie-class community. A number of that served in the Royal well-known underwater Canadian Navy (RCN) image-makers and manu- and later the Canadian . She was named factures of dive gear are after the Yukon River that located in the San Diego runs from area. Not only is there a through the Yukon and wreck alley as well as shore into . The ship entered ser- OLGA TORREY and boat diving opportuni- vice in 1963. The Yukon ties close to the city, Islas was mostly used as a training ship. the HMY Britannia on visits to several Coronados in Mexico is just Built on the west coast in North Canadian port cities. She returned Vancouver, the Yukon was immedi- to the Pacific in 1965. 20 miles southwest of San ately transferred to the east coast. In 1970, Yukon sailed with sister Diego Bay. Based in Halifax, Nova Scotia, she ship, Mackenzie, and the auxiliary remained on the east coast for a vessel, Provider, on a training mission Wreck Alley year, as part of the First Canadian throughout the Pacific. Working with OLGA TORREY The Yukon. San Diego’s Wreck Alley Escort Squadron. The Yukon es- several navies, the Yukon visited Sailboats in San Diego (above). PREVIOUS PAGE: HMCS Yukon guns is an area with intentionally sunken corted Queen Elizabeth II aboard Japan. Great egret feeding (top center); Great blue heron (center)

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LARRY COHEN

OLGA TORREY

Larry Cohen (far left and left) explor- ing the interior of the HMCS Yukon’s supper structure, covered with straw- berry anemones (top center); California sheephead fish on Yukon (top right); Olga Torrey on bridge of Yukon (right) OLGA TORREY OLGA TORREY On 17 January 1983, the Yukon minster docks for a year. She was metridiums. collided with the US aircraft car- then purchased by the San Diego Visibility can vary. There are also rier USS Kitty Hawk. She had slight Oceans Foundation and towed large cut-outs so divers can pen- damage and was repaired at the to San Diego in June 2000 to be etrate safely. Sea life is abundant Burrard Yarrow shipyard at Esqui- sunk off Mission Beach. The night on this site. It is not unusual to see malt, British Columbia. In 1986, the before she was supposed to be rockfish, perch, bass, lingcod, Yukon was one of three Canadian sunk, she surprisingly went down in large sheep crabs, thorny sea vessels that took part in the Royal rough seas. cucumbers and California sheep- Australian Navy's 75th anniversary The 111.55m (366ft) ship lies head. celebrations. On 3 December on its port side in 32m (105ft) of 1993, the ship was decommis- water. The deck is at 19.8-22.9m Ruby E. Another popular dive site sioned. (65-75ft). The bridge, crow’s nest, is the Ruby E. This ship started life in Initially, the ship was supposed davits, twin 76mm (3in) gun tur- the 1920s as the US Coast Guard to be sunk by the Artificial rets and smokestack are layered cutter USCGC Cyane. She was a Society of British Columbia. She with colorful strawberry anemo- Thetis-class cutter that was 50.3m LARRY COHEN was anchored on the New West- nes, and clusters of majestic giant (165ft) long and had maximum Capstan on the HMCS Yukon LARRY COHEN

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LARRY COHEN THIS PAGE: On Ruby E, Cohen explores interior (left); kelp bass (above); Torrey at propeller (right); OLGA TORREY Spanish shawl nudibranch (lower left) liquor into the . Coast Guard cutters con- tinued to pursue them and execute other missions. The Cyane was based out of Ketchikan, Alaska, serv- ing as a Bering Sea patrol boat during 1937 and 1938.

In 1941, President Roosevelt LARRY COHEN transferred jurisdiction of the

LARRY COHEN Coast Guard from the Treas- lands. In 1943, the crew published caught and was impounded. This ury Department to the Navy. an anthology of prose, poetry, is an ironic twist of fate consider- speed of 16 knots. She had a She was than converted to a sub- and songs called Cyanthology. ing she was built to hunt rumrun- 4,828km (3,000mi) range and was chaser. Armament was upgraded; The ship was decommissioned ners. designed to chase rumrunners this included , depth charge in 1950. In 1954, the WPC-105 was The Can Am was sold, renamed during Prohibition. The ship was tracks, anti-aircraft weaponry and converted into a fish processing the Ruby E and was supposed to launched in 1934 after Prohibition a "Y" gun. The Cyane name was ship and renamed the Can Am. be used as a salvage ship. When was over and liquor in the United changed to the WPC-105. In 1942, The Can Am was supposed to be the new owners defaulted on States became legal. Rumrunners the WPC-105 helped remove the fishing the waters of South and their loan, she was sold for scrap still wanted to avoid paying import Japanese presence during World Central America. Instead she was but was donated to become part taxes and continued to smuggle War II's Battle of the Aleutian Is- LARRY COHEN used to smuggle drugs. She was of Wreck Alley. When visibility is low on Ruby E there are strawberry anemones to photograph

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Torrey on Ruby E super-structure (left); Cohen at Ruby E's propeller (above)

El Rey. The El Rey is now an artifi- cial reef of Wreck Alley. The ship LARRY COHEN traveled from Point Conception The fascinating story of this ship E slipped below the surface and to Mexico, harvesting the kelp does not stop here. On 18 July landed upright in 25.9m (85ft) of canopy within 0.91m (3ft) of the 1989, the Ruby E became an water. The deck sits at 19.8m (65ft). surface. Kelp is used commercially . She was towed off Visibility can be low, and it is for toothpaste, shampoo, salad Mission Beach. The sea cocks were not unusual for the to be dressing, pharmaceuticals and opened, and she was expected strong. Still the intact bow is a strik- other products. to sink. The ship stayed afloat with ing sight as it appears from the The El Rey's bow is where the only a slight starboard list. As it murky water. As you swim towards harvesting blades and kelp trans- turns out, there were two secret the stern, the deckhouse and port mechanism were mounted. compartments fore and aft of the pilothouse can be entered. In the The operator worked in a small engine room. These sealed com- stern, down by the sand, is the booth on the bow. The superstruc- partments were used to hide drugs propeller and rudder. The wreck is ture that housed the crew was during its smuggling days and now completely covered with anemo- located on the stern along with prevented the ship from sinking. nes and marine life. When the vis- the engine room and storage. Local lifeguards brought several ibility is bad, there is still an abun- On the water for 35 years, the El large pumps onboard to speed dance of tiny life to scrutinize. This Rey was also used to study marine up the flooding. Finally, theRuby includes a variety of nudibranchs. life, assist other vessels in need OLGA TORREY California Lingcod on the El Rey

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THIS PAGE: On the Ingraham Street Bridge artificial reef, lush coral growth (far left), California sheep- head fish (left), female California sheephead fish (below) and Garibaldi damselfish (lower far left); Captain, the beagle, on Marissa Dive Charters (lower left inset)

other gas fills are available. Recreational and beginner divers will feel at ease on this , but the vessel also supports technical and re- breather divers. Another crewmember who is always on the boat is the guest greeter: Captain, the beagle. Captain’s job is to sit on divers’ laps and look cute. He also

OLGA TORREY alerts the crew and passengers

Ingraham Street Bridge. Not all the wreckage in Wreck Ally are ships. When Mission

OLGA TORREY Bay was developed, and the old Ingraham Street Bridge and occasionally recover was replaced, all rubble was bodies. The ship sailed 3,600 taken out and scuttled in voyages and traveled more about 18.25m (60ft) of water. than 1,303,680m (810,000mi). The structure is like a natural In 1981, the ship was supposed reef with kelp, fans and algae to be scrapped. Instead, she growing over which attracts a was scuttled on 2 April 1987. many fish. The US Navy Demolition Team attached explosives to her hull, Wreck dive operator sending the ship to the bottom Wreck Alley is a short boat ride in 22.86m (75ft) from the marinas in San Diego of water. near Sea World. Marissa Dive The wreck Charters is one of the many is only 30.48m boats that run to these dive (100ft) long and sites. The 12.2m (40ft) Delta much of the dive boat is rated for 24 pas- superstructure sengers, but they take a maxi- has collapsed. mum of 14. The experienced The wreckage is crew, including Captain Lora low-lying in the and Chris, run a sand, but you safe and comfortable boat. can still see the Breakfast and lunch are distinctive kelp- provided. There is a compres-

OLGA TORREY cutting arm. sor on the boat; air, and OLGA TORREY OLGA TORREY

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OLGA TORREY At Coronado Islands: brown rock- weed seascape (left), Garibaldi

damselfish at Lobster Shack LARRY COHEN (above), and Señorita wrasse (right)

The islands have an interest- ing history. Pirates used to visit the islands, including a pirate named Jose Arvaez. He used the bay as a base of opera- tions. Later the bay was known as Pirates Cove and Smugglers Cove. In the 1920s, Prohibition in the United States prevented people from drinking legally. US resi- LARRY COHEN dents would venture across the border to Mexico’s bars and by barking at sea lions, dolphins casinos. Rumrunners smuggling and other marine mammals. liquor to US speakeasies would often use the Coronado Islands Islas Coronados as a stop-off point.

Located southwest of San Diego In May 1943, L. Ron Hubbard LARRY COHEN Bay, the Coronados are a group commanded the U.S Navy’s sub- of four islands off the northwest chaser USS PC-815. He conducted the Mexican government com- coast of the Mexican state of unauthorized gunnery exercises plained, Hubbard was relieved of Baja California. These islands are and shelled the Coronado Islands. command. Later he became the barren and uninhabited except Hubbard claimed he thought founder of Scientology. for a small military base and a few the islands were uninhabited and lighthouse keepers. The islands are belonged to the United States. Wildlife refuge LARRY COHEN only 12.9km (8mi) from the Mexi- The Mexican Coast Guard occu- Today, the Coronado Islands Garibaldi damselfish (above) at Coronado­ Islands in Mexico; Sea LARRY COHEN can mainland. pied the islands at the time. When are a Mexican wildlife refuge. cucumber and red urchins at Connor’s Canyon Kelp Forest in San Spanish shawl nudi, Connor’s Canyon Kelp Forest Diego (left)

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THIS PAGE: California sea lions frolic underwater at

OLGA TORREY Coronado Islands, just 20mi southwest of San Diego.

The islands have colonies of come too close to get a good and the sea lions will follow gulls, pelicans, petrels and photograph. underwater and want to play. sea ducks. The largest known Dive charter boats require Visibility can be 80ft colony of the Xantus’s murrelet special licenses and Mexican (24.38m), and the water is is on the island. There are two immigration regulations require slightly warmer than in San elephant seal rookeries and everyone to carry passports Diego. Still, the dive will be harbor seals can also be found and a visitor permit that cost more comfortable if you wear here. US$21. Private boats can get all a drysuit. Garibaldi and other For divers, the sea lion rook- the paperwork done online the fish can be seen among the eries on the northernmost night before. kelp. island is the place to be. In The trip from San Diego to less than 12m (40ft) of water, the Coronado Islands can be Topside attractions hundreds of friendly sea lions bumpy. Battered by wind and Besides diving, San Diego has will approach very closely and waves, sometimes the boat many attractions. The San Die- stare you in the eye. The hec- has to stay off the island and go Zoo is considered one of tic scene is fun and humorous you have to swim in close to the best in the world. The zoo, but is also a little disconcerting. interact with the sea lions. It along with the San Diego Zoo Underwater photographers is best to swim on the surface Global Wildlife Conservancy, have to work hard to get close and watch where the sea lions has been working to connect to marine life. At times the sea are sunbathing. As you get people and animals for over lions of the Coronado Islands close to the island, descend 100 years.

LARRY COHEN OLGA TORREY

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LARRY COHEN

The area around the ma- rinas has many popular beach- es. There are also wetlands and parks in this area OLGA TORREY with many bird Ricardo Breceda serpent sculpture (above) in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park; Giraffe at San Diego Zoo (top

species to ob- left); Marbled godwit shore bird feeding (left) OLGA TORREY serve. Anza-Borrego (500mi) of dirt roads, 12 Borrego Springs is the only California town curious seals, San Diego Desert State Park wilderness areas and many that is completely surrounded by a state is a great place to ex- is about a two- LARRY COHEN miles of hiking trails. The park. Besides being an official Internation- perience all of these hour road trip park is named after Spanish al Dark Sky Community, dedicated to pro- adventures. You will gain from San Diego. This is the largest state explorer Juan Bautista de Anza and the tecting the night sky from light pollution, it insight into local history park in California. The park has 805km Spanish word borrego (bighorn sheep). In is home to around 130 rust-red, scrap-met- and culture while enjoy- the park, there al sculptures by artist Ricardo Breceda. ing the cuisine along the CANADA are sweeping Ricardo Breceda was born in Durango, US-Mexican border. With vistas with wild- Mexico, but moved to Borrego Springs, quality dive and tour flowers, palm California. He made a metal sculpture operations serving the groves and of a tyranosaurus rex for his daughter. various attractions to be cacti. It is pos- She asked for a dinosaur after seeing found in the San Diego sible to catch the movie Jurassic Park III. He continued area, there is something

California a glimpse of working on sculptures, and was eventu- for everyone above and roadrunners, ally discovered by philanthropist Dennis below the waves.  UNITED STATES golden ea- Avery. Avery paid Breceda to construct gles, kit foxes, sculptures in the Anza Borrego Desert. Larry Cohen and Olga mule deer Driving through the barren monotone Torrey are well-traveled OLGA TORREY and bighorn landscape it is extraordinary to spot and published under- Ricardo Breceda horse sculptures (above) and elephant

California

Baja sheep. Igua- sculptures of dinosaurs, elephants, scor- water photographers sculptures (top right) in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park nas, chuckwal- pions, grasshoppers, a large serpent and based in New York City, las and the other animals and mystical creatures. USA. They offer red diamond courses and presentations to dive shops, SOURCES: PARKS.CA.GOV MEXICO rattlesnake are Afterthoughts clubs and events. For more information, ASHLEYHAUCK.COM SANDIEGOZOO.ORG also common. Whether you want to dive wrecks, photo- please visit: Liquidimagesuw.com and BAJABOUND.COM VISITCALIFORNIA.COM

UWE DEDERING / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / CC BY-SA 3.0 / CC BY-SA / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS DEDERING UWE The town of graph wildlife or swim with Fitimage.nyc. MARISSACHARTERS.COM WIKIPEDIA.ORG Location of San Diego, California, on map of United States

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