instructables

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel for Under $50 in an Afternoon

by Killawhat

Note: You can skip the intro and go to step 1 if you All of this can be achieved with a minimal of tools as just want to get started building! well. At the end I'll also show some optional extra's to add on to make it even more functional. Introduction Some Background On The Design & Features Trouble handling and cutting large sheets? Me too. I don't have a lot of room in my workshop for sheets let alone cutting them down. Saw horses and a straight The inspiration for this came from a multitude of other edge are pain. Even track and guides take a bit panel saw designs which I've incorporated into this to set up. design, however stripping out what I didn't need, simplifying the design to use minimal materials and I've always wanted to build a panel saw but looking some scrap I had lying around. All of the images for around the shop, I really didn't have the room to wall the inspiration came from the public domain, but I mount it. While it's nice to make a fully functional unit haven't include any here. You can find their original like the industrial units, they're over complicated and design quite easily by doing a search for DIY Panel require far too much invested time. Quite frankly, I've Saws on your favorite engine or social network. got better things to do than spend a month of Sundays building a tool that JUST rips down sheets. I The beauty of this design is that it actually uses the reckon most of the people who are going to read this factory edge of the sheets you're cutting. So you don't have a and really only need to get the need to re-calibrate your jig or have enormous setup sheets to a manageable size. I've got a table saw that times to cut a sheet (of course if you're cutting sheets can rip sheets, but again small shop and it's still quite that are off in the first place it could be hard and requires a lot of lifting and maneuvering. A problem. It's almost a cross between a panel saw and panel saw just makes more sense from a time point track saw with the added bonus of a cross cut saw in of view and ease of use. I'm looking to how I'll be a compact form. It's even got sacrificial supports! The working 20 years from now when I'm older and carriage is made portable and cut sheets on saw probably won't be able to do what I do now. horses before you bring them in the shed without the rack if you prefer! I don't need anything complicated, just fairly accurate. And I didn't want to spend a lot of money on materials I found with a lot of designs they had short comings if for something that just does one job. It also had to be they were too simple. Overly complicated designs just compact. So I set out to make a panel saw, from take too much money and too many parts (and a lot common easily found materials, that can swing down of time to build). carts incorporated into from the ceiling, cut a full size 2400x1200mm sheet designs are a great idea and I had contemplated it but length and width ways and for under $50 (excluding came down to wall space - currently I have none and tools). I also wanted to build and install it before lunch I've got no where to put a lumber cart (currently). I'll time tomorrow. be revisiting this at a later stage as I make more room DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 1 in the shed. couple of guides either side using the factory edge and a couple of pieces above it to stop the saw and The Rack sled from popping out. The sled will probably need a lock when it's turned sideways to cut length wise so a Most rack designs use 2x4's or full sheets of either furniture nut & hand bolt could fill that function. The MDF or Ply - which is fine and it will do the job. For carriage could just slide along the top of the sheet, me, it seemed over kill and weight is an issue. And using it's own edge and maybe add another support remembering I only have a small workshop footprint I at the bottom, just to stop the carriage from moving couldn't accept anything over 2.4m wide. Simplified off 90 Deg to the sheet. I'll probably use a couple of designs where you have a fixed carriage and push quick release to help with any horizontal cuts. the sheet through were out. So a fixed rack with a movable carriage. The other problem for me is - No wall space. So a fixed mount to a wall is out currently. For me, a ceiling mounted rack makes sense. Being that it's a fairly old shed, I wanted the rack to be fairly light weight and compact. Most of the designs I'd seen, used a full 2.4m rack made of 2x4's or similar and the saw would cut into these. I'm not a big fan of cutting into something that you've just made, meaning you'd probably have to replace the rack at a later stage - my motto: Build it good the first time. A much better system would be to have cheap sacrificial pieces which you could replace regularly when required. They could also form part of the stabilisation of the rack and make the construction quicker, only using a few 2x4's (or similar) for the frame. I also figured that the rack really didn't have to be 2.4m wide as the sacrificial pieces could do that, cutting down the overall cost of the rack.

The Carriage and Sled

So if I went with a moving carriage, the foot print would be only slightly bigger than 2.4m - great. But when you look at designs, they're overly complicated - using specialty bearings, hinges for round pole styles or expensive T-Track. So if I was to go this route, the carriage and sled would have to be cheap and stable. I looked at a lot of ways to make a carriage and sled move with bearings, aluminium or steel channel, door rollers. The more I looked into it, the more complicated it got and the higher the price started to go. I'd used a simple on a table saw for years and had no problems with it, so I thought along the same lines. A couple of slots somehow made to hold a sled that could be turned 90 Deg easily. Of course you also need to stop the sled guide from warping outwards if you're only using slots - I'm thinking a larger rectangular piece of MDF or ply,

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 2 Step 1: Materials and Tools

Materials: Tools:

1/2 Sheet 18mm (3/4") MDF 2400x600 (and you (which you could use for your panel saw probably won't use it all) as well)

1/2 Sheet 9-12mm MDF 2400x600 and screwdriver

4 x 70x35 studs Shifting wrench

Screws or nails Tape Measure

2 Small Gate Hinges + Screws to suit Right Angled Set Square

Bottle Of Glue Digital Calipers (could use a ruler, but not as accurate - for setting blade alignment) Couple of odd off-cuts of ply or MDF Clamps are handy 2 sheets of A4 paper (can be recycled - not important) Pencil 4 small Toggle clamps (can buy off ebay) Hole Punch Bar Of Soap or Candle Wax

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 3 Step 2: Build the Frame

Start by cutting the supports for the frame from the rest. I also used a counter-sink bit as well - Fig 7 70x35mm pine. Obviously you can make the rack as small or large as you want. This one is about 2m high Before mounting these, measure from the bottom of and 1.2m wide. Basically you need two uprights (2m) the rack to get an even spacing for the supports. Now and two cross rails (1.2m each). I also added another glue and screw the top supports in place where support in the middle to give some extra stability. you've marked them (Fig 8). I also made sure that the top support is in line with the bottom of the rack so I Notch out some rebates into the timbers to help the could use the top support as a guide rail for the saw frame stop twisting ( notorious for twisting). Run carriage if I wanted to. It pays to space the supports the saw through like in Fig1 to make quick rebates, out and I also put a support right in the middle of the knock out the cut-out and the rest. Once you've rack so I can move the sheet upwards if I'm only done that, glue and screw the frame together and cross cutting a 600mm sheet. You'll notice there's check that it's square by measuring the diagonals. more supports in the top half of the rack than the Cut some 45 deg supports out of scrap ply, then glue bottom. and screw them to the back of frame to keep it square (fig 3 + 4). In Fig 9, place a cross support rail on the rack supports, then glue and screw the bottom piece Now use your circular saw to rip the 18mm MDF into against it - making it nice and tight (but not too tight - 40mm strips as in Fig 5 (make them a little oversized you want to be able to get these out again - they're for trimming later on the table saw). You can make as sacrificial remember)?? Clean up any glue that spills many as you like. I ended up ripping 5@40mm x out as you don't want it interfering with your support 2.4m for sheet supports and then ripped another mounts. 4@40mm x 2.4m and then cut them in half (1.2m) for the sacrificial sheet support holders. The bottom Once you've got all the supports in you can mount the support was 40mm+18mm (58mm) as 18mm would rack to the ceiling (Fig 10 & 11) with the hinges. be the biggest sheet I would be ripping down on this These are mounted to a cross piece which you attach panel saw. Once you've ripped everything, I used the to the ceiling. Fig 12 shows the rack with the sheet table saw (Fig 6) to clean and trim everything to the supports in place which are sacrificial and same widths - 40mm wide as I never really trust a replaceable. I just used a piece of fencing wire bent to saw with a guide in it a hook and a loop attached to a screw to hold the rack in place on the ceiling. You could use two if you The next step is to drill some mounting holes in the think the rack might bend under the weight. The rack sacrificial support mounting pieces to screw to the ended up being a bit heavier than I thought! frame - two holes on the ends and one in the middle. Do one piece first and then use as a guide for the

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 4 DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 5 DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 6 Step 3: Build the Saw Guide

Cut some 12mm MDF (fig 13) into two strips about place at one end (Fig 16). Move the caddy down to 40mm wide. The caddy rack I made is about 450mm the middle and end, also nailing the guide rail in place wide - this will depend on what brand of circular saw (Fig 17 & 18). you decide to use and how long the base plate is. I'm using an old Dewalt that I used for my first table saw - Add some soap or wax to the caddy top edges and still going well. And much too heavy for general sides to help the caddy slide easily alone the guide duties. You'll also need a square piece to fit between rails (Fig 19). Use one or two sheets of paper cut into the rails to hold the saw in place. I just made it about strips and place these on the top of the guide rails 80mm wider (40mm per side) than the base caddy. (Fig 20) and then screw the guide rail covers on top (Fig 22). Check to see if the caddy moves freely but Attach one of the guide rails to the factory edge of the snuggly. If need be, use an extra sheet of paper MDF with glue and nails (Fig 14). Wipe any excess underneath for spacing. until the caddy slides nicely. glue off the rails as you don't want anything binding or Fig 21 show how much clearance there is between prematurely wearing runners. Turn the caddy rack the guide rails and the saw base. around (Fig 15), place the caddy base in-between the guide rails, then glue and nail the other guide rail in

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 7 DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 8 DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 9 Step 4: Saw Install & Setup

Using the base plate of the saw, square it up with the Using a set square on the blade (Fig 24), adjust the caddy base and attach using screws or screws and saw angel until the blade is at 90 deg to the nuts (Fig 23). It's important to have the saw blade base. Most saws also have a stop hex set screw for lined up with it's saw base. To do this, measure from easy return angle adjustment - adjust this once your the front of the blade to the outside of the base plate saw is at 90 deg. and again at the rear of the blade to the base plate (Fig 26+27). Using the adjustment screw on the saw Once the setup is done and the saw bolted to the (Fig 25), adjust it until the front and back base caddy, you can clamp the saw to a set of saw measurements are the same (Fig 28). A set of horses and do an initial plunge cut to the base caddy. electronic calipers are handy for this. Alternatively, Do it slowly with the blade spinning. If you don't you could just use a rule and make it as close as you remove enough material initially, the blade will rub can. against the timber causing the blade to heat up and most likely warp. Once that's completed, you'll also need to set the saw blade angle of the saw so it's 90 deg to the base.

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 10 DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 11 Step 5: Setting Up the Caddy Runner and Alignment

The runner is just a straight piece of 70x35 pine that rack (remember I said that the top support rail can runs along the top edge of the sheet you are cutting. also double as a guide)? Now do a plunge cut into the It should be around 900mm. Long enough so there is caddy and run the saw straight down until the end of an initial lead and lag for the caddy system to glide the track. along. One thing I realised when I did this, was that saw First you need to make sure that the caddy is at 90 dust was getting caught at the bottom of the stop. So deg to the sheet being cut. Attach one end of the I removed the end support and installed a dowel caddy to the caddy guide at a corner (Fig 29) and instead so the saw dust could fall freely (Fig 33). I align it to the board to be cut using a long straight also mounted a second support brace on the back of square (I made one that is 1200mm long) (see Fig the caddy at the top to help support the caddy from 32), draw a line down the sheet (Fig 30). It's also a splitting apart if I needed to adjust the caddy good idea to check that your square is actually alignment. square by reversing it and making sure the lines are the same. To help with keeping the saw from moving, I installed some small clamps at the side of the caddy base. If Using a clamp at the bottom of the sheet, align the you turn the caddy 90 deg to do horizontal cuts, caddy with the line (Fig 30 + 32). Once you're happy, there's also clamps to hold the caddy in place (Fig put a screw in the caddy and caddy guide to set it in 36). place. The last picture is the final product. The unit cuts Once you have this done, you can remove the sheet pretty well overall. of timber and move the caddy to the centre of the

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 12 DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 13 Step 6: Final Thoughts & Modifications

There are a few limitations with this setup - namely Future Improvements space issues. The bottom support rail can be moved to the centre You have to make sure the base is not twisted when position to cut smaller sheets at waist height. it comes down to the floor otherwise you won't be However, I may end up making another support rail able to sit the sheet to be cut in the rack squarely. for the bottom with a 90 deg piece with some rollers on it. I'll either make these out of dowels drilled until it You also can't cut a full sheet in half length ways and PVC pipe as sleeve rollers or maybe some check using the top support rail as a guide (it was mainly an plastic wheels. idea for smaller sheets). Being that they're relatively thin (18mm), they tend to sag under a weight so won't I also plan to make some stops that slide on and give accurate cuts on the outer edges. However you clamp to the centre support rail for repeatable vertical can still cut sheets down length ways using the cuts. I'll also add a tape measure cutting guide on the sheets own factory edge with the guide running along X + Y axis for easy accurate cutting. it. I'd also recommend if you're doing length cuts that you clamp the end edge at the top to stop the sheet The good thing about this unit is you can mount it to a from falling onto the blade when the saw gets to the ceiling or you could essentially mount it to a wall. end. When I've finished making more room in the shed and get a spare wall, this may be what ends up happening The support rails on the front, while they're easily to it. replaceable may not sit in their slots all the time. I may end up recessing a few screws into the frame to I might also end up making a video of the saw in hold them in place if it becomes an issue. action and explain how it works and was built.

DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon: Page 14