TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION • MARCH/APRIL 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

ROADWAYS TO PROFITABILITY IN THE DRIVER’S SEAT CREATING NEW USA-MADE BUSINESS MODELS

NATURE-INSPIRED TECH ROBOTIC TEXTILE RESEARCH SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING Interested in insights, fiber and fabric technologies, and processes for enhanced sustainability? Discover more about The LYCRA Company’s Planet Agenda and how we can create value working together at LYCRA.com.

LYCRA Text Insight Planet Agenda FP Ad 11-17-19.indd 1 11/8/19 1:23 PM ® TEXTILE INSIGHT

Editor/Associate Publisher Emily Walzer [email protected]

Editorial Director Cara Griffin

Art Director Francis Klaess

Contributing Editors Suzanne Blecher Kurt Gray Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Kathlyn Swantko

Publisher Jeff Nott [email protected] 516-305-4711

Production Brandon Christie 516 305-4710 [email protected]

Advertising

Katie O’Donohue [email protected] 828-244-3043

Sam Selvaggio [email protected] 212-398-5021

Subscriptions: store.formula4media.com

One year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) in the United States. All other countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds).

Formula4Media ® Formula4 Media Publications

Footwear Insight Footwear Insight Extra MARCH/APRIL 2020 Outdoor Insight Team Insight Team Insight Extra Textile Insight Cover Story / 16 of intriguing tech and testing. We Textile Insight Extra Production of cycle bags at Swift Industries factory in Seattle. See page 26 for details. Investment in machinery and highlight three ways brands are Trend Insight innovative programs, along with bringing the heat. sportstyle diversified portfolios and grassroots

PO Box 23-1318, Great Neck , NY 11023 In the Market / 6 efforts, is working to expand and TrendSetter / 26 Phone: 516-305-4709 Fax: 516-305-4712 Euro trade show takeaways, company elevate domestic manufacturing. Martina Brimmer reflects on her www.formula4media.com news on support for climate action, personal and professional passion new business operations and Technology / 20 for adventure cycling in conversation Textile Insight® is a registered trademark compliance updates. The latest looks Contributor Debra Cobb investigates with Suzanne Blecher about Swift of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2020 All rights reserved. The opinions expressed in women’s-specific product. the development of performance Industries’ USA-made cycle bags. by authors and contributors to Textile fabrics that replace traditional Insight are not necessarily those of the Education / 13 chemistry with bio-based or bio- Survey / 28 editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not Collaborative research at University mimetic technologies. This installment of Trend Insight responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, of Minnesota seeks solutions to Consumer delivers research on photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Textile Insight may not be problems in the creation of robotic Strategies / 22 purchasing decisions by active reproduced in whole or in part without textiles for on-body applications. As consumers and companies give outdoorists with feedback conducted the express permission of the publisher. Kathy Swantko reports. more thought to how they package on MESH01’s Insight Platform. Textile Insight is published bi-monthly: and send items, the market for Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Footwear / 14 sustainable materials for product Out of Context / 30 Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec. At Clover & Cobbler, Jaclyn Jones transport opens up. Kurt Gray predicts the State of Postmaster: Send address changes is determined to make American Colorado will be overwhelmed by Interested in insights, fiber and fabric technologies, and processes for enhanced sustainability? Discover more to Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 manufacturing simpler, more Innovation / 24 bored, post-lockdown vacationers Great Neck, NY 11023 sustainable and more accessible to In 2020 the hunt for winter-worthy this summer, and ponders what that about The LYCRA Company’s Planet Agenda and how we can create value working together at LYCRA.com. textileinsight.com designers and retailers. performance comes in the form means for the textile market.

LYCRA Text Insight Planet Agenda FP Ad 11-17-19.indd 1 11/8/19 1:23 PM TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER

Nobody Told Me There’d Be Days Like This

footing, the recession hit. And now we are dealt COVID- 19, with the severity of its impact both personally and professionally a big unknown. But textile folk are nothing if not resilient. I have witnessed the fortitude of American textile companies time and time again reporting on the industry. Stories of inspiration, innovation and community effort appear throughout this issue of the magazine. You want to feel good about the future? Turn to page 16 and read profiles of businesses and organizations making strides in domestic production and new programs to create a ’ve been doing a lot of baking lately. Peanut butter workforce skilled both in traditional sewing as well as cookies, Irish soda bread, and sour cream coffee cake the latest equipment and automation. That’s just for Iemerged from my oven in recent weeks. I love the routine starters. Learn about amazing material research happening of gathering ingredients and preparing pans, and the at University of Minnesota on page 13 and there’s info rhythm of sifting flour, kneading dough, and measuring on cool new performance technology on page 20. You’ll a precise teaspoon of vanilla. I know the butter, sugar, enjoy reading about Swift Industries on page 26; a can-do egg mixture will welcome the mound of dry ingredients story of a passionate maker. And there’s upbeat news at the ready, and with steady stirring and an extra pinch on the sustainability front and an increasing number of of salt, all will be well. Set the timer, get out the cooling collaborative planet-positive campaigns. racks, step away from the counter for a sip of coffee and Even in this time of uncertainty, one thing I do know sure enough, baked goods grace the kitchen. is our industry’s ability to survive and move forward. There’s comfort in the expected, whether that’s in The other day I found myself thinking of a John Lennon baking or in business. We count on order for security; tune, with a particularly catchy refrain: “Nobody told me follow the plan, proceed with confidence and positive there’d be days like these. Nobody told me there’d be results are predictable, be it a family-favorite recipe or days like this. Strange days indeed.” fundamental corporate strategy. There’s Now uncertainty is the order of the day as the coronavirus Be well everyone, comfort in runs its course globally. the expected, The textile industry is no stranger to crisis; in fact, disruption has been a defining aspect of domestic whether production for several decades. In the late ’90s when that’s in business fled offshore I wrote so many stories about mill baking or in closures I became fluent in bankruptcy law. Then again in Emily business. 2008, just as textile suppliers were finding their collective

RESPONDING TO THE NEED FOR Textile-Based Product Solutions RESPONSIBLE TEXTILES For five decades, Concept III has collaborated with the world’s most revered mills, responsibly sourcing and developing what’s needed most—innovative eco-friendly textiles. Today, with our partners by our side, we’re supplying global brands with proud partner of sustainable resources that result in better gear and a healthier planet.

conceptiii.com

4 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com

IN THE MARKET | EURO REPORT New Developments Contribute to a Cleaner & More Efficient Industry. By Louisa Smith Takeaways from the Trade Show Trail

life. A good example is the Futurecraft.loop anorak by Adidas Terrex that won Gold for the Outdoor sector at the ISPO Awards at the January fair in Munich. A technical and modern designed jacket, the insulated Futurecraft.loop anorak is made with a continuous cir- cular process in mind. Using 100 percent polyester, no trims and only non-dyed colors, the outdoor garment has a strong oriental style, with high-level performance. The innovative Adidas Terrex piece features Parley Ocean Plastic and a collaboration between Parley and rom the denim and fashion textile shows through Primaloft for insulation. At the end of life, the jacket to intimates and the outdoor and sports sectors, there can be ground down and returned to the textile chain. Fwasn’t one industry fair on the European event circuit in the first quarter of 2020 that didn’t have a space Production & Product Advancements dedicated specifically to sustainability. Machinery developments — much like the trend in As the industry evolves, sustainability shouldn’t be textile ingredients — are going forward in new ways. contained within a special area. Instead sustainability Karl Mayer, for example, introduced a more efficient should be mainstream at all levels in the textile indus- approach to manufacturing that runs the gamut of try. Textile manufacturers and brands are realizing this innovation from directly printed fabrics to creating new reality. Additionally, it is also clear that a higher 3D uppers for sneakers to contemporary style body level of creativity is now coming through, especially in mapping and new spacer fabrics. It is this technical textiles, which is refreshing to see following a mindset arena, made up of the spinning, knitting and weaving centered on sustainable ingredients in previous seasons. machines and an essential part of the supply chain that New developments are emerging that go beyond is often overlooked. But no longer: this development using recycling ingredients. Brands are now creating in warp knits not only delivers modern production but IST Corporation launched Imidetex, a garments that feed into the circular economy with also saves on waste and energy. Proving once again technical fiber for the sports market. recycling a critical way of disposing apparel at end of that the whole supply chain is involved in a cleaner and efficient future. On the recycled side, there is a push to seek alternative sources that widen the search beyond recycled plastic sourced from land and sea. Leading the way on “closing the loop” in the textile chain is Imbotex, offering luxury cashmere insulation. Cameluxe insulation is created from collecting the clippings from the manufacturing of cashmere coats in Italy, shredding the cashmere and blending to create a new luxury product. It was also good to see the Japanese back in force on the trade show cir- cuit with the introduction of exciting offerings especially on the fiber front. Sony’s Triporous is a sustainable material produced from rice husk, a biomass that is available in abun- dance. The process carbonizes the rice husk to create a powder that is combined with a bio-degradeable rayon fiber. The benefits exceed the bio-based ingredient to also feature inherent performance achieved, including deodorization.

6 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com Urban Lab at ISPO

Areas to Watch fact that it tapped into social One sector of the outdoor and sports markets that media and now counts over continues to grow is durability, especially in terms of five million followers with safety. Japanese materials company, IST Corporation, customers in 131 countries. following their motto “inventing technologies no-one Established in 2012 by teen- can copy,” launched Imidetex, a technical fiber for the ager Ben Francis and a group sports market. With high tenacity and high temperature of school friends in a garage, resistance, the new fiber can withstand temperatures as Gymshark is now the brand low as - 121°C and as high as 121°C with unforgiving UV fitness fanatics regard as a rays from the sun. “must have.” Polyimide is the synthetic as it is a material that can The range is understated, withstand these temperatures. The yarn delivers high made with high quality fab- resistance that is perfect for air sports and sails as well rics, yet has an attractive as paracords and lifelines for climbing. The biggest chal- price point and is designed lenge, according to the company, was forming polyimide to make you look good, resin into a string shape before putting it in the oven. especially if you are already Polyimide resin is a honey-like resin which needs to be honed and toned. heated to 400°C in order to shape it. It took IST almost In March the brand opened five years to perfect the process from composing the a pop-up store in London’s polymer to making the fiber. Covent Garden to entice new The urban sports category is one to watch in 2020 with customers with a typical creativity and innovation thankfully coming back to the bricks-and-mortar experi- scene, especially with companies investing so heavily in ence rather than rely on solely sustainable developments. For outdoor brands, clicks. Disrupting traditional reminiscent of the athleisure market, this urban-centric channels by bringing its URL approach offers the potential for performance fabrics and to IRL (in real life) Gymshark technical garments to take on a funkier edge as consum- customers are able to experi- ers, in particular, Millennials, look to garment versatility. ence a more intimate offering As electric scooters and bikes feature in major cities, and see what all the fuss is changing the traditional mode of transport, urban about with this brand. And, sportswear responds to the demand by consumers for importantly buoy this effort performance apparel that looks good outdoors as well as by using social media to in a metro environment, bringing key functionality with shout out about it. membrane technology and DWR finishes. Its effective use of digi- All major outdoor brands are pursuing this and offer- tal know-how created ing drop collections alongside traditional collections or Gymshark’s presence in the sports sector. The com- The urban sports collaborating with designers. The MM6 x The North Face pany’s Instagram and twitter accounts highlight sports category is one to line shown at the latest London Fashion Week serves as a influencers to engage users. The collection itself is good; watch in 2020 with good example. MM6 is the contemporary line from Martin it is subtle in style but delivers on performance levels Margiella, and the collaboration is a new direction for estab- with functional fabrications. But what makes this this creativity and innovation lished outdoors brands to expand into the fashion market. brand stand out is that it is probably one of the first in thankfully coming back The collection featured existing best-selling styles from the sports market where the foundation lies solely in its to the scene, especially The North Face including the Himalayan Coat with all savvy use of digitalization. with companies styles given a contemporary twist with MM6s contem- Embracing digitalization is key for the future as sustain- investing so heavily porary look and input. This collaboration validates the ability within the outdoors and sports industry, from B2C in solely sustainable fact that the potential for urban street sports isn’t just but also from B2B and C2B. These business models now for the outdoors sector, but also for the fashion sector, go hand in hand, with digitalization not only providing developments. eager to source innovative fabrics. This is great news for a more efficient platform but also a waste-saving one performance providers on the textile and trim scene, as through block chain systems and production, with the long as they too pursue a strong creative element. future focused on a digital level as well as an ecological one. By the middle of this new decade, sustainability, the Embracing Digitalization most repetitive word used on the show circuit, will be And finally, disruption continues in the supply chain, obsolete, as its characteristics embed in the textile chain but also at retail. Gymshark, a leading British e-tailer, for a cleaner future as we work in a smarter and more is one of the fastest growing fitness brands, due to the efficient way. l textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 7 IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE USTRIVE Manufacturing First in U.S. to Obtain Organic Certifications. YKK Supports Charter for Climate Action Going Green

KK Corporation, manufacturer of zippers and other fastening Y products with a long history of environmental stewardship, dating back decades with the introduction of Natulon, the first zipper made from recycled PET bottles and polyester remnants, has become a signatory to the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, an initiative that calls on the fashion industry to acknowledge the industry’s contri- bution to climate change and accept responsibility to strive towards climate USTRIVE sewing facility. neutrality. YKK joins more than 100 signatories to the Charter, which supports the goals STRIVE Manufacturing, been in business in Los Angeles for post-harvest to retail shelf of the Paris Agreement in limiting global a Los Angeles-based for more than 28 years. Care- management, addressing all the temperature rise to less than 2°C above Ugarment maker spe- Tex Industries is a full-service processing stages (ginning, spin- pre-industrial levels and sets specific goals cializing in knitwear, has dye and finishing facility that ning, knitting, weaving, dyeing for the entire fashion industry to imple- become the first and only ver- uses water-based low impact and manufacturing) of 70-100 ment. These goals focus on a 30 percent tical clothing manufacturer in GOTS certified organic dyes, percent organic fiber-contain- aggregate reduction in greenhouse gas North America to be certified to and S&B Printing specializes in ing products and prohibiting (GHG) emissions by 2030 and achieving both the Global Organic Textile nontoxic, water-based printing the use of toxic inputs. The net-zero emissions by 2050. The Fashion Standard (GOTS) and Textile and embroidery using organic Organic Content Standard veri- Industry Charter for Climate Action was Exchange’s Organic Content thread. USTRIVE partners with fies that five to 100 percent of launched under the auspices of United Standard. As such, USTRIVE nearby Laguna Fabrics – the the raw fiber in the product was Nations Climate Change at COP24 (24th enables brands to meet both first U.S. knitter to gain GOTS grown to the U.S. Department of Conference of the Parties to the United Made in America and organic certification – for its organic Agriculture’s National Organic Nations Framework Convention on Climate criteria throughout their entire fabrics. Program organic crop or live- Change) in December 2018. supply chain from cut and sew “The GOTS certification pro- stock standards (in the U.S.) In addition, YKK will continue its efforts to dyeing, finishing, screen cess took over eight months no matter where in the world it to identify and reduce greenhouse gas printing, embroidering, pack- to complete and included a was grown or raised, and allows emissions in its business activities, aging and storage. complete retooling of our blending of conventional and including raw material procurement, USTRIVE is four compa- dyeing, printing and packaging organic cotton as well as syn- production processes, logistics, and the nies vertically integrated into methods in order to meet the thetic fibers. supply chain. Within the next two years it one: Tour Image, Jin Clothing, standard’s stringent non-toxic USTRIVE also pays its work- will set science-based targets consistent Care-Tex Industries and S&B chemical requirements,” said ers hourly instead of by piece, with what the latest climate science says Printing and Embroidery, all Scott Wilson, USTRIVE founder ensuring that work is carried is necessary to meet the goals of the Paris with deep roots in the local and partner. “At the same time, out at a pace that ensures qual- Agreement – to limit global warming to apparel industry and all located we chose to have OCS certifica- ity. This means it guarantees well-below 2°C above pre-industrial levels within 12 miles. tion because it allows us to offer a consistent wage (versus a and pursue efforts to limit warming to Tour Image is a 30-year old a broader range of organic fiber- variable wage) translating 1.5°C. YKK aims to obtain Science Based sales and design/development based fabrics for our customers to approximately 25 percent Targets initiative certification. l company while Jin Clothing is to choose from,” he continued. higher wages per month than a family owned private-label GOTS includes both environ- other similar knitwear contrac- More information on science-based targets is apparel manufacturer that has mental and social provisions tors in Los Angeles. l available at sciencebasedtargets.org

8 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com AAFA Issues Latest Edition of Restricted Substance List (RSL) Industry Group Advances Circularity in Effort to Combat Textile Waste he American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) has released the 21st edition of the Restricted Substance ith figures from the mechanical and chemical recycling List (RSL), the industry’s chemical management Environmental Protection of cotton, viscose and polyester resource listing banned or restricted chemicals and T Agency (EPA) showing textile waste. These three fibers substances for finished apparel, footwear, and home textile W that 15 million tons of textile waste is cover over 80 percent of all textile products around the world. The RSL identifies the most restric- generated annually in the United States fiber production, and are therefore tive regulations worldwide. The latest edition reflects recent alone, a new industry group looks to an important focus. changes in the global regulatory environment. The RSL is an replace a conventional linear “make, Future phases will use phase 1 open-industry resource available to both AAFA members and take, waste” approach with supply data and information to execute the global industry. chains designed for circularity that pilots and establish new research “AAFA’s RSL task force is focused on maintaining a resource will keep massive amounts of textile in other geographies. that not only ensures safe chemical management, but ultimately waste out of landfills. Companies are Additional founding project part- protects our consumers. Chemical management is an important stepping up to the plate to support ners include Giotex, Gr3n, Lenzing, part of a responsible and compliant supply chain,” states AAFA Textile Exchange’s new Accelerating Unifi, Revolve Waste and Fabrikology president and CEO, Steve Lamar. Circularity Project with funding and International, Inc., along with col- The 21st edition of the RSL covers 12 categories with more participation include The Walmart laboration from organizations such than 250 chemicals and is updated to reflect additions or changes Foundation, Gap, Inc., Target and VF as the American Apparel & Footwear to regulations and laws that restrict or ban certain chemicals in Corporation. Association, Apparel Impact Institute, finished apparel, footwear, and home textile products. The RSL is The project is initially focused on Circle Economy, Outdoor Industry produced by AAFA’s RSL Task Force, which reviews and updates researching, mapping and identifying Association, Textile Exchange, The the list regularly to reflect the latest global regulatory changes. opportunities to pilot circular supply Renewal Workshop and United States To access the RSL visit www.aafaglobal.org/AAFA/Solutions_Pages/ chains which will be driven by the Fashion Industry Association. l Restricted_Substance_List.aspx

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 9 IN THE MARKET | COMPANY NEWS A Round Up of the Industry & Brand Developments.

Dry-Tex Introduces New Dye Mill Operations

ry-Tex, a leading textile filtration system that allows the facility “Because we like to emphasize sunlight into clean energy, the solar mill for knit, woven, to re-use up to 70 percent of the water conservation and environmental panels have a peak power of 1,819 KW, protection, we’ve always been and laminated fabrics consumed from the dyeing process. estimated as being enough energy proud to work alongside Dry-Tex.” has launched a new With the introduction of its dyeing to support 100 families for one year. dyeing facility. Located capabilities, Dry-Tex is now a verti- CHRIS PARKES, PRESIDENT OF CONCEPT III. Additionally, Dry-Tex works primarily Dnearly 120 miles south of Shanghai, cally integrated textile mill, with with others who prioritize sustain- the facility is running at full capacity, a portfolio of products and ser- which has always been a huge con- ability, including Concept III. “Because dyeing nearly 70,000 meters of fabric vices that includes research and cern for other dye facilities, we’re we like to emphasize conservation a day. All machinery in the dye facility development, fabric testing, yarn not just able to make high-quality and environmental protection, we’ve is completely controlled by comput- manufacturing, weaving, and lamina- fabrics, we can make high-quality always been proud to work alongside ers, connected to a central command tion. “I’m excited we can now provide fabrics responsibly.” Dry-Tex,” said Chris Parkes, President system. The computer systems allow all necessary textile services under Dry-Tex is dedicated to self-imposed of Concept III. “Now, with their dyeing for greater color accuracy and provide one roof because that gives us a com- sustainability initiatives. In 2019, in capabilities and their unique ability to a means of catching any issues before petitive advantage in this industry,” concert with the development of its radically lower water consumption, they arise. The dye mill has an eco- said Andy Dong, president of Dry-Tex. dye mill, Dry-Tex installed an array we couldn’t be prouder to collaborate friendly element, with a new membrane “And since we’re not wasting water, of solar panels on its roof. Converting with them.” l

ISKO Shares Eco Practices Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) well as our brand, to industries and applications certified, depending on the content percentages. outside of our core market,” said PrimaLoft presi- Together with the R-TWO program, ISKO uses dent and CEO, Mike Joyce. l automated laser technology that was developed in partnership with Jeanologia. Karl Mayer Group Buys Stoll A special panel hosted by ISKO discussed a As part of its growth strategy, the Karl Mayer range of topics from automated laser technology Group will acquire the Stoll Group effective July 1, to integrated waste management processes and 2020. The purchase opens the door for additional field-to-garment tracking systems and how these growth in technology and innovative solutions in achievements are reshaping the fashion industry. the flat knitting sector. Panelist Keith O’Brien, ISKO marketing & business Karl Mayer is recognized as a market leader in development manager, stated, “Stepping up together warp knitting and warp preparation for weaving is essential, when it comes to the development and technical textiles, with over 2300 employees of better practices. This is not something we can worldwide. deal with alone, we need to rise up as one and “Stoll is an internationally recognized brand be consistent in our quest for new, responsible in the textile industry and has comprehensive solutions.” technological expertise and an experienced team in the knitting sector,” explains Arno Gärtner, CEO ISKO showcased its latest responsible achievement, the PrimaLoft Establishes New of the Karl Mayer Group. R-TWO program, at Drapers Sustainable Fashion Forum. Licensing Business “This alliance brings together two very strong ISKO showcased its latest responsible achievement, With an eye on broadening company advance- brands in textile machinery building whose solu- the R-TWO program, at Drapers Sustainable Fashion ments in performance and sustainability beyond tions portfolios and regional presence complement Forum held in London earlier this month. ISKO its proven categories of apparel, footwear and each other brilliantly. This will enable us to expand also hosted a special panel to discuss pioneering home furnishing, PrimaLoft has established a new and accelerate our innovation strategy in the areas advances in technology. licensing business unit. of digitalization and technology, and strengthen R-TWO represents how reducing, reusing, and Jochem Lagemann is president of PrimaLoft our global presence. Our customers will be able recycling strategies can be implemented in a textile Licensing, retaining his duties as PrimaLoft’s man- to benefit directly from this and increase their business to improve its environmental performance. aging director, Europe and remaining based in the competitiveness in the dynamically changing textile R-TWO reduces the amount of raw material sourced European office in Munich. Lagemann will continue industry,” says Andreas Schellhammer, CEO, Stoll. by using a blend of reused cotton and recycled as a member of the operating board. Both Karl Mayer Group and Stoll are both polyester – both certified –, improving sourcing Bob Sameski has been hired as VP, PrimaLoft family-owned enterprises based in Germany efficiency throughout the entire field-to-fabric Licensing reporting to Lagemann. Sameski previ- with long-time established success. The comple- production and effectively tackling over-sourcing, ously worked with Symphony Investment Partners mentary product portfolios and an even greater a leading issue when it comes to waste hierarchy. as an advisor to licensing partnerships, mergers regional presence in all relevant markets will Reused cotton is certified with the Content Claim and acquisitions. create new, high-level expertise in the interna- Standard – or CCS – from the Textile Exchange. As for “We are excited for the opportunity to expand tional textile market, according to a corporate recycled polyester, it can be either Recycled Claim access to our advanced material technology, as statement from the Karl Mayer Group. l

10 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com IN THE MARKET | MADE IN AMERICA U.S. Postal Service Implements New Made in USA Policy for Uniforms.

Compliance Update

U.S. Postal Service uniform bulletin issued and Policies for the Quality Control of Postal a while ago mandates that product be Uniforms and Footwear dated 31AUG 2000, must A domestically sourced and assembled in be domestically sourced and assembled in USA.” the USA. According to the official statement, manu- Manufacturers will be required to provide the facturers must be in compliance with this policy Postal Service with a Certificate of Compliance, no later than September 30, 2020. Considering confirming that 100 percent sourcing of American there are 500,000 postal workers nationwide, materials and garment assembly for these uni- this policy decision that uniforms and footwear form items. be 100 percent American-made is a bright spot This policy change has been championed by for domestic textile and apparel production, the Warrior Protection and Readiness Coalition, industries that are under pressure to maintain (www.warriorprotection.net) who have made this manufacturing capabilities. Implementation of the a central issue in their congressional advocacy. new policy requires that all materials in addition U.S. manufacturers of uniforms and domestic to insignia and applicable findings such as buttons, textiles and findings are encouraged to contact zippers and thread be included in this mandate. the NCTRF for more information. U.S. Postal Service Uniform Bulletin 310 was Additionally, all apparel items purchased with issued by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Postal Service funds for the purpose of promoting Facility (NCTRF) in October 2018 with the subject for use by the U.S. Postal Service (USPS). The a product (e.g., Express Mail) or a program (e.g., line “Made in USA” Policy. The NCTRF, located at bulletin was released to inform manufacturers of safety) must be American made. l the Natick Soldier Systems Center in Natick, MA, the USPS Uniform Program Management Office’s provides the oversight, design and development implementation of the new policy requirements, More relevant information is here: https://about. of the uniforms and footwear that are approved and “governed by USPS Operating Procedures usps.com/manuals/elm/html/elmc9_009.htm

Onward in a POst-Pandemic wOrld

Our May/June 2020 Issue Conversations Include:

• Re-thinking Business Practices & Management Preparedness • New Supply Chain Configurations • Performance Textiles in the Age of Safety • The Future of Industry Gatherings • What’s New for Spring ‘21 & What’s Next for Active/Outdoor

Ad Close: May 21, 2020 ® Show: Outdoor Retailer Summer Market textile insight Contact Jeff Nott: [email protected], 516-305-4711, or your account representative.

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 11 IN THE MARKET | WOMEN’S PRODUCT Celebrating Women’s History Month and Women’s Right to Vote. Active Achievements

oday’s approach to female-focused, gender engineered women’s with innovative takes on textiles and versatile silhouettes that go product puts to rest the old notion of “shrink it and pink it.” The beyond the basics. Women’s issues were front and center during latest iterations of women’s apparel and footwear showcase the month of March, recognized as Women’s History Month, and authentic design and fabric development for true fit and function- this summer marks the centennial of the 19th Amendment. Here ality whether product is intended for work on a job site or a trail are examples of how brands are actively advancing women’s- run in the mountains. New looks also level up women’s lifestyle specific products. l

RYKA’s newly launched FEMPOWER collection of training shoes Merrell’s Antora X Trail was designed in partnership with the feature a made for women fit with a narrower heel, softer heel women’s trail running non-profit Trail Sisters. Features include cushion ad roomier toe box. The Momentum model is shown here. jacquard engineered mesh and TPU upper, and reflective details.

New looks also level up women’s lifestyle with innovative takes on textiles and versatile silhouettes that go beyond the basics.

Entos, a new brand based in Mexico, Cotton Incorporated in col- Wrangler’s expanded RIGGS Chill Angel’s Essential Sleep Set stands out for its sophisticated use laboration with Studio 317, a Workwear line includes pants and made from the company’s super of lace and embroidery combined woman-owned design and product jeans that highlight tough durable soft 16.5 micron Angel Light 100 with fashion-forward approach development firm, developed the construction without compromis- percent merino offers a comfort- that takes lingerie into the realm MateLasse Vest, an all-weather ing fit and style. Tops are made able fit and the high-performance of ready-to-wear. This long sleeve quilted garment with Storm Cotton with moisture-wicking and stretch moisture and temperature manage- blouse, part of a full body outfit, water-repel fabric, a YKK water- fabric, with gusset details for range ment benefits of merino wool. The won praise at the February Curve proof zipper, and comfort stretch of motion, and reinforced stitching Tank also works well worn under Expo trade event, where Entos was through addition of rib knit collar for longevity. a flannel shirt, under a sweater or named best in show. and side panels. as an extra base layer.

12 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com EDUCATION | UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA Collaborative Research Advances Shape-change ‘Robotic’ Textiles. By Kathlyn Swantko Tech for Fit & Function

sustain blood pressure as they transition SMA knits have from zero gravity to earth gravity.) demonstrated they “Over the long term, we want to translate react to the heat generated passively Powered only by body heat, our this technology to a variety of global appli- by the human shape-changing textiles create new oppor- cations — medical garments, behavioral body, and these tunities for interaction with the clothes garments, and even everyday clothing to textiles can be we wear every day,” explains Dr. Brad create a new paradigm of dynamic clothing,” engineered to both Holschuh, co-leader of the project and says Holschuh. For instance, compression tighten and adjust the topography assistant professor, apparel design and stockings, which would be easy to put on, to conform to co-director of the University of Minnesota but tighten around the wearer’s foot and complex body Wearable Technology Lab. “This capabil- leg when in place to provide the required geometries. Photo ity has the potential to radically change medical or therapeutic compression. The Credit: University of garment design that initially benefits the technology could also translate to any gar- Minnesota Design of Active Materials user with loose, easy-to put-on apparel. ment that ultimately needs to fit the user and Structures But once on the body, the garment can without requiring significant power or tightly (e.g. corsets, belts, shoes, etc.). Lab and Wearable then physically transform itself into more heat; and 2) how to conform textiles or The team is also investigating blended Technology Lab. snug-fitting clothing.” a garment to parts of the body that are fibers, combining SMAs with traditional Two research groups are collaborating irregularly shaped. fibers to create active textiles with more on the project: the Wearable Technology While resembling typical knits, the typical surface finishes and textures. The Lab (WTL) in the College of Design, textiles used are created from a special textiles are evaluated and validated using and the Design of Active Materials and category of active materials known as both 2D mechanical testing and 3D garment Structures lab (DAMSL) in the Department SMAs (shape memory alloy materials), a motion testing on mannequins and humans. of Mechanical Engineering, under the direc- combination of metals that change shape “Thinking more broadly, textiles with tion of Dr. Julianna Abel, Benjamin Mayhugh when heated. The knit-based SMA systems variable mechanical properties can be Assistant Professor. have customizable actuation qualities, deployed to create variable stiffness for The project, slated to continue through which can be tailored both at the material knee braces, variable-loading casts and 2021, is led by Professors Abel and level and the system/architectural level. other orthotics, dynamic-squeeze garments Holschuh, along with two U of M gradu- Recent advancements in the engineering of for circulatory therapy for diabetics, or ate students, Kevin Eschen and Rachael SMAs have made it possible to manufacture for behavioral therapy for those with SPD Granberry, and is an explicit partnership SMAs with precisely targeted actuation (Sensory Integration Dysfunction)/autism. with NASA, via a space technology research temperature ranges. And, the application for space actuatable For more information on the “University of fellowship. The program also involves textiles is enormous!” states Holschuh. Minnesota’s Research on industry partners; Fort Wayne Metals devel- Program Goals Everything produced in the lab can be “Shape-change Textiles Powered Only by Body ops the advanced materials required to The team’s short-term goal is to refine created using industry-standard knitting Heat”, contact Brad create the shape-changing textiles. the technology for compression garment techniques, explains Holschuh. l Holschuh, Asst. Professor The effort simultaneously solves two sig- applications. They have partnered with Apparel Design, at: bth@ umn.edu, 612-624-3210, nificant problems in the creation of robotic NASA to develop the technology for astro- or Julianna Abel, Asst. Kathlyn Swantko is president of the FabricLink Network textiles for on-body applications: 1) how nauts as they return to earth. (Currently, Professor, Mechanical and created www.TheTechnicalCenter.com. Contact: Engineering, jabel@umn. to create usable actuation, or movement, astronauts wear compression garments to [email protected] edu, 612-301-7065.

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 13 FOOTWEAR | MADE IN AMERICA With Clover & Cobbler, Jaclyn Jones Creates a Factory She Couldn’t Find. By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Domestic Manufacturing Fit for Today

manufacturers and retailers looking to create in-house brands that the execs crafted a formal interview process to triage potential clients as well connect individuals not yet at the manufacturing stage with area consultants. Jones said this extra service is a direct response to her own experience of launching a brand. At Clover & Cobbler, Jones is determined to make American manu- facturing simpler, more sustainable and more accessible to designers and retailers than ever. “I had made all the designs, but there was no information hen Jaclyn Jones wanted about how to take the next step,” said Jones. “I looked to launch her namesake brand in 2015, finding a factory heavily for six months. I had quit my job, and this was Win the U.S. that would take her on was no easy feat. Now, 100 percent my day job and my night job.” not only does Jones manufacture her Jaclyn Jones USA While L.A. has a number of operating footwear factories product line of shoes, she owns the factory that makes ranging from small garage factories to big European-style it. Located in the Van Nuys neighborhood in Los Angeles, operations these facilities weren’t a fit for Jones as they Clover & Cobbler currently makes three in house brands – mostly made their own brands and didn’t do private Jaclyn Jones USA, Salpy, and Californias, which launched label or had big minimums. As a result Jones ended up earlier this Spring. At any given time Jones also produces working with two smaller factories to create her shoes. footwear for 10-15 private label lines in the 20,000-square- One factory patternmaking and another specialized in foot factory space that opened in 2018. hand-carved wooden heels that could do outselling Jaclyn Jones, left, in the showroom A busy showroom on the factory floor that features and assembly. on the factory floor. The showroom a swatch wall and samples from local resources serves is set up for meetings, line reviews A Turning Point in Production and conferences with a wall a as a multipurpose space for meetings, line reviews, swatches and information available and conferences. Jones and chief production officer It was the second factory, International Last, owned by on local resources. Kim Thomas field so many inquiries from designers, Salpy and Kevork Kaladjian, which eventually changed Jones’ plans. After working closely on Jaclyn Jones USA and on Salpy, Kaladjian’s namesake line, the Kaladjians asked Jones if she’d be willing to buy both. The couple were looking to step back, and despite being approached by bigger labels and Chinese factories, they wanted the factory, and what they considered a family of workers, to be in the hands of someone who wanted to run the place, not just acquire its assets and contacts. “I was saying, ‘I don’t know how to run a factory!’ But then I thought, I’m in here every day, and I do know how. And on top of that, I see all the things that could be done better,” Jones explained. Enticed by the rare chance to pair a fresh start with the benefits an existing business, Jones took on the financing and made the purchase, leasing a new factory space 15 minutes from the old location and stripping down all the old equipment to be cleaned and tuned up. Having the factory floor be an inspiring, creative, feminine place was important to Jones; when the time came to re-enamel the machines, for example, Jones had it done in teal. New & Improved The new space gave shape to Jones’ vision of what a modern, forward-looking American Made production facil- ity could be. She transitioned to water-based adhesives to improve both sustainability and workers’ health, and installed $50,000 worth of dust collection and air filtration systems for the same reasons. She also reset the layout so product would flow in a true production line to follow

14 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com any given collection through the whole process. shipping and customs, and [account] for the time you’re Clover & Today at Clover & Cobbler, Jones and Thomas, as well losing on your timelines. And it’s your peace of mind: Cobbler’s as Salpy Kaladjian and marketing and sales people, work What is that worth to you?” business has in the office, with 23 workers on the floor, half being Jones said business has grown steadily, with increases grown steadily, women, including the three floor supervisors. “They’re in people looking for vegan and sustainable options artisans doing their craft,” Jones said. “They’re amazing especially. She sees further growth opportunities for with increases people.” Together the company offers full service line boutiques: Only a small portion of her business is in in people development, lasting and production. And, Jones said, doing private label for stores, but whenever Jones looking for operations are geared to give new brands the services walks into a shop with their own apparel and jewelry, vegan and they need. she can’t help but think, you know, you could put your sustainable “We have zero minimums so new brands can start own name on your own shoes, too. options out,” Jones said. “And we break down our pricing: a Some of the business coming her way is the fact that especially. style in this color way in four to 12 pairs, here’s your she — unlike the factories she once tried to find — is per-pair cost; if you make 14 to 25 pairs, this is what it active online. Being contacted through Instagram is will cost. We keep the pricing in short breaks so they nothing odd. But Jones also believes a cultural shift is can decide what they want to do.” driving people to seek her out, too. “A lot of people come to us and expect to make shoes “We’re in a certain economy where everyone wants that retail for $30, and that’s not realistic,” explained to be an entrepreneur and can be a entrepreneur,” she Jones. “It’s not apples to apples with overseas costs. said. “That movement within the younger generation Artisans at work in the company’s With the [lower] price per shoe, you’ll also have to pay empowers a lot of people to try it out.” l reimagined Los Angeles factory.

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 15 Creating New Ways to Expand & Elevate Domestic Manufacturing. ROADWAYS TO PROFITABILITY

IN THE DRIVER’S SEAT CREATING NEW USA-MADE BUSINESS MODELS / BY EMILY WALZER

utdoor Research has been successfully to Bureau of Labor Services data. making high-performance apparel A grassroots effort in North Carolina is educating work- and gear domestically for decades ers and businesses to more effectively connect with textile at its headquarters in Seattle. But suppliers. The Carolina Textile District has received 2200 when the time came for the company applications in recent years and classes scheduled for 2020 to increase capacity and accelerate are almost completely booked. Entrepreneurs who are either product development, Seattle wasn’t launching a brand or product, or scaling up and outgrowing the solution; the local labor market current production and are ready to work with contract was tapped out. A hunt to find a manufacturers are driving demand. This category of “Crafted place with the best characteristics Production” is giving rise to a new kind of work environment for a new factory involved site visits attracting next generation talent and revitalizing the region. to Puerto Rico, Rhode Island, Texas, New Jersey, eastern Whether its investing in the latest machinery for new manu- OWashington state and California. A year ago the company’s facturing methods, or forging relationships to build traction El Monte, California manufacturing facility opened. The in new markets, or innovating programs to create a modern new Outdoor Research factory is on track and profitable workforce pipeline for a USA supply chain, paths to profit- making technical gloves and accessories for military and ability are clearing the way forward for American-made in the tactical markets. future. Here are their stories: MMI Textiles exhibited a new EcoThriv fabric collection at the Outdoor Retailer/Snow Show in Denver earlier this year. Engineering Factory Efficiency The fabrics were developed specifically with sustainability, “We ended up in Los Angeles because the bones of that performance and domestic manufacturing in mind targeting sewing community is still there,” explains Jason Duncan, head the consumer athleisure/athletic marketplace. Ohio-based of tactical, innovation, and CSR at Outdoor Research. El Monte MMI Textiles may be best known for its military and industrial also offered affordability, strong community support and a business and the company will retain that model, however, pool of workers – the company received 1,000 applications being open to diversification is a strategic direction. Outdoor to work at the factory. “Of that about 20 percent were great brands are already showing interest in EcoThriv and the sewers. But that’s what we needed. We started with about company is optimistic about gaining traction with a whole 70 and are now up to 100,” says Duncan. new audience. The company retrofitted a brand new, but empty, El Monte In April the ISAIC Learning Factory will open in Detroit with warehouse with a focus on cutting-edge machinery, technol- the aim of training people not only in traditional skills, but also ogy and engineered efficiency. Outdoor Research has six skills that are going to be required for advanced manufacturing. mechanical engineers on staff, with degrees from schools such ISAIC stands for Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center, an as M.I.T., Cal Poly and University of Denver, who work along organization that has garnered support from an important with “old heads” machinists. Duncan describes this hybrid local partner: Carhartt. Carhartt donated the 12,000 square model of young minds working together with experienced feet of prime Detroit real estate, as well as funds for the equipment experts as fantastic. Outdoor Research even has $1.8 million build out and a beginning inventory of sewing a mathematician on staff doing predictive analysis based on machinery for the creation of the ISAIC Learning Factory. factory capacity plans. “The minutes we save on the produc- While Michigan’s industry remains humble compared to tion line are massive,” says Duncan. “Letting people with the places like New York, the number of apparel manufacturing skill set solve problems is a better approach, than thinking establishments in the state has nearly doubled since 2009, this is the way we’ve always done it.” from 72 to 120 in 2018. The number of people employed in the The company has updated to cad cam cutting, significantly state’s apparel manufacturing and cut-and-sew sectors has reducing waste while increasing cutting efficiency to 90 percent, also increased from 793 in 2009 to 1,471 in 2018, according up from 68 percent. The factory does a lot of auto sewing and

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 17 ROADWAYS TO PROFITABILITY

cycle machine sewing; workers with a lower skill industrial and custom fabrics. The firm sources investing in people to be a future pipeline. “Our set operate these machines. internationally but complies with U.S. Berry industry has not done a good job of giving very Duncan estimates investment in El Monte Amendment mandates for its military and tactical specific paths to advancement in different ways as $3 to $5 million. This factors in the training business. The company has experienced steady from production management, technical design needed to produce high-tech military grade gloves. growth since its founding in 1997 and Bircher is to equipment and maintenance technicians,” “Gloves are really difficult, seam allowances are optimistic not only about the year ahead but her explains Guarino, who previously served as really small, and we build waterproof gloves so business in general. Shinola’s VP of manufacturing. “So our job is to its even more difficult sewing and then to seam Last July the company acquired the assets of provide those paths so that people want to stay seal after that is difficult. It calls for significant Competition Textiles, a woven fabric converter as in our industry. Its one thing to want to foster sewing skills,” states Duncan, adding, that teaching well as fabric importer, based in Indianapolis, IN, talent, but another to also want to retain them.” that level of glove making is an expensive invest- enhancing MMI’s existing stock line for domestic ment that requires a lot of trial and error. “We and international customers. More recently MMI Regional Revitalization budgeted for having to throw away product until has brought on board Jeff Papalia in a new-created The Carolina Textile District has ridden a wave sewers got up to speed, but that is a necessary VP position to help with operations as the com- of change since its inception in 2013 experienc- part of development.” The factory also makes pany continues to grow. ing first hand a shift within in the industry from gaiters, headwear, balaclavas, accessories, and While Bircher is hoping that EcoThriv becomes a traditional business models based on large orders some apparel. Branded textile suppler partners success, perhaps even jumpstarting a small brand and working with established companies to a new include Gore, Brookwood, Polartec, Super Fabric to become the next Lululemon, she realizes that generation of businesses with different produc- and PrimaLoft. big orders could jeopardize domestic sourcing. tion needs. “This has required a new thinking “We are a technology story, and a first-gener- “The difficulty is finding skilled labor,” Bircher on the part of the textile industry,” says Tanya ation story and a military story,” states Duncan, explains. “If worker availability were abundant, Wade, project coordinator for the Carolina Textile who sees value in being a wholly owned factory and the manufacturing footprint here were bigger, District (CTD). that offers a benefits package. He concludes: “If there would be huge movement to come back to The CTD has created a platform to educate, you can diversify and keep your factory full, it is USA. It’s not, and that’s the big challenge.” support and revitalize the local textile community. a nice business to have. But it’s not for the faint The organization offers a Sewn Goods workshop of heart, that’s for sure.” Right Shoring Vs. Reshoring that not only teaches skills, but all aspects of the “There’s all this talk about ‘reshoring’ happen- textile industry, improving individuals’ ability Growth By Diversfication ing, but we like to refer to it as ‘right shoring,’ to effectively connect with suppliers. “We do MMI Textiles CEO Amy Bircher recalls numer- and what we mean by that is not looking to the nitty-gritty on how to make product — all ous conversations in recent years with industry rebuild the way the industry used to operate, the things not being taught anymore. Today’s executives during which it became apparent we’re looking to build in a different way,” states design programs focus more on “wanting to eat that what’s missing in the supply chain is access Jennifer Guarino, CEO and chair of the Industrial the sausage, not wanting to make the sausage,” to small run stock programs of athletic fabrics Sewing and Innovation Center (ISAIC) in Detroit. states Wade, who adds, “Our program is such for athleisure apparel. “There is a movement of “We train and apprentice for the future of work.” that when attendees leave the workshop they wanting USA product, not relying on Asia, and ISAIC’s Industrial Sewing Related Technical can answer supplier questions on price point, supporting jobs on U.S. soil, and this is our world Institute (RTI) offers 200 hours of training at Henry start orders, etc. This has been the big discon- that we live in,” Bircher explains. Ford College in Dearborn. Seen as a starting point, nect in the past. “Companies have no time for Seeing an opportunity, MMI Textiles consulted students completing the program have options hand-holding!” with experts, met with domestic knitting and weav- to advance; for example, to apply for entry-level The District, as its known in the area, also offers ing mill partners, as well as ingredient suppliers, sewing or apply to ISAIC’s paid apprenticeship clients a week long Crafted Production session to learn the viability of creating a new sustainable or use their course credits for higher education. once a year focused on how owner-operated line of apparel fabrics are made in the USA. ISAIC’s apprenticeship program takes place at a businesses can find and retain employees. (This The new EcoThriv collection, a line of five fab- brand new Learning Factory in midtown Detroit. is separate from start-ups contracting production rications, features environmentally responsible Skills taught at RTI can feed into many industries from outside resources, Wade explains.) performance. A solution-dyed fleece fabric called such as upholstery, footwear, automotive (making According to CTD participant surveys, many “Willow” is made of 100 percent recycled polyes- car seats) or denim manufacturing. Similarly businesses in the Crafted Production category (56 ter with CiCLO additive that allows polyester to apprentices become competent to move ahead percent) are seeking small runs of 100 to 5,000 biodegrade, and is finished with fluorine free HeiQ in a variety of fields from product development, units and the majority of them (nearly 80 percent) EcoDry DWR. Repreve recycled poly, recycled and robotics to quality control. The intention is are doing their first production run in textiles or cotton, and Tencel fibers feature in materials suit- to teach traditional skills and advanced manu- their first production run for the product they able for a variety of end-uses from yoga pants to facturing skills to the same group of people so are inquiring about. Participants launching new baselayers to jackets. Says Bircher, “We’ve been their comprehensive skill set enables equity in domestically manufactured products are younger so successful in other market space, that we feel the industry of tomorrow. (67 percent under the age of 40), have some capital we did our homework, and that we could make For example, ISAIC members believe that people (91 percent have at least $2,500 to put toward the worthwhile investment in this space.” and technology can be really good together. design and development of their product) and The company is classified as a manufacturer by Guarino cites the organization’s partnership have a direct-to-consumer distribution strategy the government, but doesn’t own its own equip- with Juki, as example, and hands on learning that (with 76 percent planning to sell online). ment; the making is its converting process. This provides on the most advanced sewing machines. At the end of the day, says Wade, “it’s not about “virtual manufacturer” model, has served MMI Guarino emphasizes the importance ISAIC creating jobs, but creating good jobs and thriving Textiles well as a global diversified supplier of places on laying out avenues for success, by careers with fair wages.” l

18 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com GO TO MARKET WITH CONFIDENCE.

MESH01 puts the power of people and technology behind your product testing.

Gather critical feedback fast for every phase of product development from concept to launch.

Very Good 33.33%

Excellent 10.53 %

Fair 8.77 %

Good 47.37%

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT: www.mesh01.com/product-testing TECHNOLOGY | FUNCTIONAL FABRICS Building on Established Tech with New, Nature-Inspired Innovations. By Debra Cobb Performance Plus

Limited, is based on peppermint oil. According to Lisa Owen, the company’s North American business representative, peppermint oil has long been used as a natural substance to inhibit the growth of odor-causing bacteria. “It’s a sustainable chemistry that’s a great alternative to metal-based antimicrobials and odor-capture technologies,” she explains. Life Natural is applied to textiles during manufac- turing, is durable through multiple washings, and is "While spandex makes cost-competitive with current silver, silane-quat or zinc fabrics difficult to recycle, hile brands and con- antimicrobials. we are able to use other sumers alike appreciate functional fabrics — offering Sourced from sustainable plants, the peppermint stretch polymers so that Wperformance benefits such as odor control, moisture extract used as the active ingredient is also used in we can engineer what the management, and weather protection — many are oral hygiene products (toothpaste, mouthwash, etc.) brands need and desire.” starting to question exactly what kind of mad science Applied to textiles, footwear, and fitness equipment, Chad Lawrence, NexTex goes into them. it has no smell or sensory impact. Most importantly, it According to McKinsey & Company’s report The State passes relevant tests for efficacy and safety. “Most waterproof, of Fashion 2020, “45% of apparel companies surveyed Life Natural has already been adopted by Columbia breathable products give by McKinsey are looking to integrate more innovative Sportswear and ethical clothing brand Pangaia, as well up something. Airadigm bio-based materials, and over 67% of sourcing executives as by UK retailers Marks & Spencer and John Lewis. gives up nothing.” state that the use of innovative sustainable materials “Everything old — of natural origin — is new again, Greg Vas Nunes, Trinity Tech will be important for their company.” but better,” quips Owen. Group (TTG) As a result, textile innovators are starting to create performance fabrics that replace traditional chemistry Act Like a Tree “Everything old — of with bio-based or bio-mimetic technologies. The nature-based principle of capillary action inspires natural origin — is new TurboDry, a non-chemical, patent-pending textile tech- again, but better.” Nature-based Odor Control nology that relies on physics to draw moisture one way, Lisa Owen, Life Material Life Natural, an odor-control technology for textiles to the outside of the garment. TurboDry is the creation Technologies Ltd. and polymers from Thailand’s Life Material Technologies of Dr. Jason (Jun-Yan) Hu, CTO of Atlanta-based NexTex Innovations. Chad Lawrence, NexTex CEO, explains that while the innovative knit constructions utilize two or more yarns or “threads,” unlike old denier-gradient technologies the technology doesn’t rely on differing denier-per- filament ratios. “Denier-gradient fabrics have construction limitations, and weren’t always soft next to the skin,” says Lawrence. Dr. Hu’s process leverages the physics of contact angles and capillary action in a range of knitted fabrics typically using commercially available filament yarns, spun fibers, and various fiber blends. Lawrence is particularly excited about the sustainable aspects of TurboDry fabrics, which can be made with recycled polymers, and easily recycled if constructed of a single polymer type. The reduction of chemicals used during manufacturing also helps lower the Higg Materials Sustainability Index score. TurboDry technology is physical and will not wash out; in many cases the moisture transport actually improves after washing, based on AATCC 195 testing. The company has also developed TurboDry elasto- meric fabrics, according to Lawrence. “While spandex makes fabrics difficult to recycle, we are able to use other stretch polymers so that we can engineer what

Ethical brand Pangaia’s Life Natural T-shirts require less washing.

20 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com ACTIVATED COOLING

Airadigm’s microventing membrane system promotes a personalized body comfort zone, or I-Climate. the brands need and desire,” he says. The company currently offers some 22 TurboDry fabrics and is in the process of developing additional constructions.

Personalized Climate Few technologies are more critical to comfort in the outdoors than waterproof, breathable outerwear. With sustainability now top-of-mind, outdoor companies continue to search for the optimal combination of water and wind repellency, breathability and moisture flow, and durability. AIRADIGM, a new waterproof, breathable membrane system created using microventing plasma technology, is being called “a paradigm shift” in personal comfort. “Adventure is personal,” says Greg Vas Nunes, CEO of Trinity Tech Group (TTG), the Missouri-based maker of membranes for footwear, protective and military apparel. The microventing mechanism keeps wind and water out while allowing body heat and moisture to escape, promoting what the company is calling an “I-Climate,” or personalized body comfort zone. TTG’s proprietary, made-in-America technology begins with an ePTFE layer that is laminated to a substrate as required. The magic happens in the vacuum chamber, where a very small amount of waterproofing chemi- cal is vaporized into a gaseous state, creating a charge that permanently bonds the monomer to the multi-layered fabric. The process encapsulates every fiber without blocking the fabric’s pores unlike traditional DWR finishes that only treat the fabric surface. The pulse plasma treatment replaces the equivalent of two 55-gallon drums of chemical bath, according to Vas Nunes. No gasses are released into the atmosphere, and no polyurethanes or PFOA are involved. The treatment can be applied to both knits and wovens, and the result- ing fabrics are not only waterproof but oil and stain resistant as well. The Intelligent thermoregulation triggered by body heat fabrics are soft and pliable, appropriate for active apparel, footwear, gloves, Specifically designed for next-to-skin textiles, HeiQ Smart Temp is an intelli- gent textile technology that provides fabrics with the ability to interact with packs, tenting, etc., and can be customized through various constructions body temperature. Cooling is activated when you are hot and sweaty, and and layering configurations. deactivated once your cooling is complete. This helps to ensure optimal “We are building on an older technology (ePTFE), but the twist is that thermal comfort. we’ve taken away the negatives,” says Vas Nunes. “Most waterproof, breathable products give up something. Airadigm gives up nothing.” Textile innovation requires a lot of science and capital investment, Vas www.heiq.com Nunes points out; but it needn’t rely on harmful chemicals. l

textileinsight.com 2019.05_HeiQSmartTemp_ad_TextileInsight_4.75x13inches.indd 1 10/05/2019 13:01:01 Packaging from LimeLoop uses upcycled billboard vinyl. STRATEGIES | SUSTAINABILITY The Whole Package Market for Eco-Friendly Materials for Product Transport Opens Up. By Suzanne Blecher

ith an increasing the company’s Rigid Mailers to conform to maintaining supply chain performance, Kenyon number of cities apparel and other soft goods. The mailer also said. Additionally, box-making is a local business. and municipalities expands into a three-dimensional, polybag-like Most box plants are built around manufactur- eliminating the use shape when filled with product. One potential ing hubs and serve a 150-mile radius, making of plastic bags and hiccup, however, is that the texture of the them a part of local communities. There are Styrofoam at retail, recycled paperboard can be difficult to adhere approximately 1,150 corrugated manufacturing both consumers to, so firm pressure must be applied across the facilities domestically. and companies are thinking more about entire length of the adhesive. Offerings from Because corrugated options have been around Whow they package and transport products. EcoEnclose are typically 5 percent under and for 150 years, Kenyon admits that sometimes At the Active Collective NYC tradeshow in up to 15 percent above a standard mailer of brands need to be reminded of its sustainability January, I chatted with several brand reps the same size and thickness. story. Therefore, the industry has embarked on about this phenomenon. Jessica Laursen, Using upcycled billboard vinyl, LimeLoop has a communications program. “Boxes. The most creative director at eco-friendly studio cloth- created a “lightweight, durable, returnable smart extraordinary thing in the world” is a campaign ing brand Avocado, spoke, ironically, about shipper to get us one step closer to making following a company making biodegradable e-commerce a zero-waste, circular economy,” “Packaging serves plastic out of avocado pits. noted Ashley Etling, the firm’s CEO. Brand as an opportunity Sustainability was also top of mind for partners rent the shippers from LimeLoop, mail for companies to brands including Lole, Splits59, Thrive Societe out products and attach a prepaid shipping demonstrate corporate and the Upside, which ships some items in label to return to the shipper for reuse. For responsibility reusable washbags. At NiyamaSOL, a luxury every 20,000 shipments, about 132 trees are and display it.” yoga lifestyle brand, 84 percent of fabric saved, along with 400 gallons of oil, compared is made of recycled plastic bottles. Owner to conventional packaging. Etling said she saves Adam Gendell, associate director, Allison Hart has been researching sustainable small brands up to 40 percent on packaging Sustainable Packaging Coalition packaging, however, the roadblock is price. costs and when calculating in the return of One option she looked into was four times the shipper, it is on average cost-neutral. The sharing attributes of packaging that goes unno- more expensive than the brand’s current monthly subscription and low minimums help ticed. Similarly, the Paper and Packaging Board packaging, which is a stopping point. smaller brands with cash flow, according to the launched its “How Life Unfolds” campaign exec. The firm works with Turtle Fur outdoor in 2018 highlighting the relevance of paper Packaging Industry Players headwear, Upchoose organic baby clothes, packaging in our lives and our industry. Saloni Doshi, CEO of recycled packaging as well as Toad & Co., where shoppers can firm EcoEnclose, has heard the woes of small select LimeLoop at checkout. Coalition Comments companies before. To accommodate, “we offer According to ShipMatrix, Inc., a software Despite the newly forming plethora of prom- packaging at very low volume bundles and provider that analyzes shipping data, consum- ising sustainable packaging options, there are custom branding starting at just 500 mailers ers received 8.6 billion e-commerce packages growing pains. “There’s a learning curve that and 250 boxes,” she commented. EcoEnclose in the U.S. last year, up from 7.6 billion in 2018. every company must navigate,” commented offers 100 percent recycled, 100 percent recy- Packaging has truly changed with the growth associate director of the Sustainable Packaging clable packaging in both paper and poly mailers of e-commerce. “Traditionally, items were Coalition, Adam Gendell. “For instance, there and works with about 3,600 apparel, footwear shipped to stores, unpacked, put on shelves are plenty of well-established frameworks for and outdoor companies per year including or otherwise merchandized in store. Today, responsible paper sourcing, but implementing Fjallraven (transitioning to sophisticated, online shopping means packaging not only a new procurement policy can be an immense barcoded 100 percent recycled poly mailers) transports the product, but it also has to be undertaking, requiring new suppliers, cost and Bedrock Sandals (using sustainable algae part of the unboxing experience,” explained models, packaging designs and new corporate ink). “We were excited with the results from Rachel Kenyon, SVP of non-profit Fibre Box culture – it takes will, determination and coor- the first batch (of algae ink) and have been Association, which serves the corrugated dination to make change at scale,” he said. using it ever since,” commented Bedrock packaging industry. Corrugated packaging The upside is that consumers are already marketing exec, Matt McAdow. represents a traditional form of boxing that gravitating toward purpose-driven brands While poly mailers offer functionality works in today’s society considering it is and “packaging serves as an opportunity for (weatherproof, thin, lightweight, flexible) at made from a renewable resource and has a companies to demonstrate corporate respon- a low cost, EcoEnclose’s Paper Apparel Mailer very high (96 percent in 2018) recovery rate. sibility and display it, quite literally, on the is made with thicker stock than other paper A corrugated package can be any size, shape first tangible interaction the customer has mailers, but is thinner and more pliable than or form, allowing creativity in box design while with their product,” the exec noted. l

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 23 TRENDS | INNOVATION New Takes on an Age-Old Wintertime Woe: Staying Warm. Bringing the Heat

How to keep warm in cold weather has challenged the best and the brightest in the business over the decades, inspiring advances in insulation materials, strategic layering, engineered fibers and smart yarns. In 2020, the hunt for winter-worthy performance comes in the form of intriguing tech

Toray’s three Technorama GIII testing and testing developments. Here’s a quick take on chambers can replicate variable wind three innovations that caught our eye recently: speeds up to 67mph, simulate rainfall up to 200 mm/hr and temperatures from -22 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, along with many other capabilities. 1 POWER ON “Battery tech is evolving and innovation in this category is robust,” says KC Bean, CEO of Fieldsheer Apparel, makers of Mobile Warming Technology. The company’s heated-clothing technology is a far cry from the heavy, bulky, batteries of the past. Tucked inside a side pocket of the latest Fieldsheer jacket is a soft-edged, low profile lithium-ion battery that is Bluetooth-based and adjustable with the touch of a discreet button. “The performance is way better, as are the aesthetics,” states Bean, who hails from the consumer electronics industry, and uses terms such as power system, control system, wireless management, and integrated tech to describe apparel tech advancements. In an article Bean penned recently for Innovation Tech Today, he wrote, “Without question, wearables – and specifically electronic textiles, aka ‘smart clothing’ – have positioned themselves as the newest, and perhaps brightest, star in the IoT universe.” Fieldsheer was not alone advocating “personal expe- rience” heating at the OR+SS trade show in Denver earlier this year. Attendee interest in the category was obvious, with buyers stopping at displays to check out new collections at a handful of vendors offering battery- powered warmth. Bean makes a case for the latest developments in this category. “This was year number three for us exhibit- ing at OR, and we bring more cosmetics and leading edge technology.” He mentions price as another factor, citing his company’s $199 price point for a slim, down- insulated jacket. “The textile industry is at a pivot point for disruption,” Bean concludes. “Just look at what Tesla has done in the automotive industry.” Gobi and Therm-ic also exhibited at the Denver trade fair. Gobi featured lithium-ion batteries in apparel and accessories that offer adjustable settings. Therm-ic intro- duced a new heated vest for women with five heating zones, affording five hours of USB powered heat that is Bluetooth controlled. The company’s battery powered

24 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com Powersocks provide 16 hours of warmth/comfort and The lightweight and high wicking Bluetooth heat control. liner of the base fabric and the Could this new generation of batteries be the answer soft surface area that we were to outdoor industry’s version of “wearables?” Smart able to apply against the skin technology has long been waiting on the doorstep of really opened up how we were performance textiles, but slow to generate mainstream going to be able to apply acceptance. The significant buzz surrounding Levi’s x reflective heat. Being able Google partnership that brought to market Levi’s tech to create a comfortable connected Commuter Trucker Jacket a few years ago, for lightweight experience example, did not result in a game-changer for apparel, in gloves, liners and nor bring the house down in terms of sales. The outdoor headwear was a perfect apparel market has barely greeted smart wear, yet alone alignment for our line.” embraced the technology – compared to fashion or other industries. On the other hand, plenty of OR+SS attendees and exhibitors were wearing AirPods. According to a 3 recent report from Strategy Analytics, Apple sold nearly 60 million AirPods in 2019, outpacing smartwatches and FUTURISTIC fitness trackers combined. Indeed “hearables” is now WEATHER tagged the hot smart tech category. TESTING Construction is the key to Marmot’s innovative Warm Cube design that 2 not only gets the job done very well when it comes to warmth but also BASE LAYER DEBUT sports a cool, contemporary look. The A prolonged legal battle with Columbia Sportswear over insulating material, down, is housed patent infringement was settled recently in favor of Seirus in cube-shaped compartments unlike — very good news for the San Diego apparel and accessory a traditional baffle. As such the air firm and the evolution of its Heatwave technology. Base space trapped between each cubes layers, an entirely new category for Seirus, will feature holds heat more efficiently and Heatwave in men’s and women’s styles for availability in warms the wearer quickly. The tech- Fall 20. Described as a “dual-stage heating system,” the nology and placement also create textile combines a kinetic stage with a reflective stage channels which flex and shape to that together raises and returns warmth. the body. The journey of how Heatwave came to be serves as The latest iteration of Marmot’s a great example of what it takes to create comfortable, 8000-meter suit built for the alti- lightweight warmth in performance products for the tudes and demanding conditions of outdoor marketplace. the Himalayas, employs the Warm The company introduced Heatwave in 2013 in gloves and Cube design and makes use of sev- a glove liner, but the origin of the technology dates further eral custom-designed Toray textiles. back to the early ’90s when Seirus started using a reflec- Recently Marmot’s textile tech met with tive heat fabric by combining a wicking fabric (Thermax) futuristic weather testing at Toray’s with reflective foil (Lurex) to create “Thermalux” used in a Technorama GIII facility in Seta, Japan, Thermalux Glove Liner – which remains in the line today. an advanced laboratory for reproduc- A statement from the company provides a detailed ing climates worldwide, as well as background: “The visible ‘gold flecks’ in the glove liner simulating everyday type environments made the look glittery, and the function was undeniably like stuffy subway cars. warmer. We often would try to find ways to move this into Having been put the through its paces other products in our line for the function, but the mate- in two days of testing, the Marmot suit rial was just a little tricky to work with in other product performed exactly as designed in the Seirus Heatwave next to types. Reflective foil for heat has been a known lightweight Technorama’s sub-zero temps and high skin garments feature wind conditions. This enabled the Toray heat success story since NASA and the introduction of strategic antimicrobial space blankets into safety kits. We were introduced and Marmot teams to validate the efficacy of venting and flatlock seams to a fabric by one of our partners that had enhanced the Warm Cube design, through thermal for comfortable layering. ability to wick and retain warmth. We combined that imagery, with input from Everest veteran material with reflective foil and that became Heatwave. Roxy Vogel who joined in the testing. l textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 25 TRENDSETTER | SWIFT INDUSTRIES’ MARTINA BRIMMER Photo: Gritchelle Fallesgon

Martina Brimmer.

resh off of a five-day gravel bike camp full of of our growth,” commented Brimmer. For the first three technical descents and pace-line practice in years, she was a maker, and later morphed into a prod- Elgin, Arizona, Martina Brimmer reflects on how uct designer. The 2016 Struktur event in Portland, OR F much adventure cycling — and her business marked a big change in terms of both connections made — means to her. “We are working hard to bring female and the mission of Swift Industries. The exec reflected, representation into the sport, as well as trans and gender “prior to that event, we had only seen ourselves as a binary representation. We currently aren’t doing the best cycling company. There was now this opportunity to job, but things are changing,” she said, adding, “We’re come in as an outdoor company straddling outdoors putting out a call to action.” For one, there is a movement and cycling. We were bewildered that no other brands to allow participants to compete in the category that best were in that sphere.” matches their gender identity. Brimmer lives, eats and dreams cycling, and it shows Seattle Start: With all products designed and manufac- in designs for her bag company Swift Industries. After tured in an industrial workplace in the heart of Seattle, starting the business in 2008 in her basement with her Brimmer is tied to the local landscape. She is heavily UP boyfriend (now husband), a sewing machine and a roll involved in Seattle Made, a cross industry platform for of fabric, Brimmer, CEO of the Seattle-based company, keeping manufacturing in the Emerald City. Current CYCLING has 10 employees (six of which bike almost every day) conversation centers on the dominance of technology and a full-fledged, global company. and the struggles of urban manufacturing in the area. Creating USA-Made Cycling Textile Insight digs into Brimmer’s quest to be better. There is a small factory community thanks to Outdoor Bags for Super Cool Research, REI and Filson, helping small cut and sew Adventure Cyclists. Insta-Success: “We were born around the same time shops to keep operations running. “These factories are By Suzanne Blecher as Instagram and it has been such an exceptional driver very approachable. At the beginning we had no tech

26 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com Swift Industries’ 2020 Zeitgeist Saddle and Handlebar bag along for the ride.

packs, no knowledge and it just felt smart to cut noting, “That has been a real struggle.” Another at how battens support sails. Swift Industries our teeth with neighbors – meet face to face,” she issue in the mix is the lack of closed loop options moved to CoverLite and streamlined manufactur- said. Following a deal signed in 2019 with REI, Swift in the U.S. ing processes by introducing laser cut and die cut Industries’ 2020 collection is now being made in components. Voile straps replace leather, making Seattle and Vancouver. “We continue to look for Proven Product: With 2020 designs just launched in the bag vegan. The Bandito saddlebag and Paloma high quality cut and sew assistance in the U.S. to March, Brimmer brought prototypes to cyclists at handle bar bag were also upgraded for better help us to scale,” Brimmer commented. the February 2020 WTF Bikeexplorers Gravel Camp integration with the bicycle. at the 8,000-acre Appleton-Whittell Research Ranch Offshore Observations: While tied to the local land- of the National Audubon Society for feedback. “I Dream-Driven: “We are really ready internally to scape, Brimmer has thought of fleeing. “Offshore ride side by side and interact with people. Some jump into a new cycling into soft mount bags in a is worth investigating for the centralized sourcing can’t stand a jiggle on their bike. It is amazing intel very different way,” Brimmer commented. There capabilities. It is a little painful that the factories for our design team,” she said. For 2020, Brimmer are long term plans to move from being an exclusive we work with have no connection with our mate- has made material improvements to three existing cycling bag company to something bigger. “We rial sourcing,” she said. Domestic distributors products. The best-selling Zeitgeist bag is being are a community and events focused brand, and a currently meet volume needs, but as the business relaunched as a saddle and handlebar bag. The well-regarded resource for adventure cycling.” Swift grows, she anticipates bumping into issues. “If we firm moved away from an outmoded attachment Industries recently started running an adventure went to Vietnam, we would have the opportunity system as Brimmer’s team saw limitations caused sharing evening where presenters come into the to hand over tech packs and do all sourcing, plus by material selections – leather straps fed through company’s retail store to share routes, itineraries get textiles on the same campus versus the cur- entire bag (including the interior) with punches and stories. Around 200 people have attended each rent situation of our production manager calling created weakness and compromised waterproof- event. “It’s exciting to see climbers and mountain- in every single parts order.” The administrative ing. Designers turned to the sailing industry for eering folks come in. United, we are all people who time and aggravation are palatable, with Brimmer ways to better reinforce bags to saddles, looking want to play outside,” Brimmer concluded. l

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 27 TRENDINSIGHT

We surveyed 401 consumers. Here is what they told us.

THE SURVEY: MADE IN AMERICA Year over year comparisons for 2018, 2019 and 2020, reveal subtle changes in how product WHERE PRODUCTS ARE MADE origin, pricepoint and local retail shopping influence consumer purchasing decision-making. AND HOW THAT IMPACTS BUYING Has your interest in knowing where a product is made increased in the past year?

66% 58% 64% 42% 34% 36%

2018 2019 2020 2018 2019 2020

No Yes

How important is a “Made In America” product label in your decision making process?

61% 63% 58%

27% 22% 22% 18% 15% 15% While an interest in product origin and the technology that “powers” product performance remain key factors in consumer purchasing 2018 2019 2020 2018 2019 2020 2018 2019 2020 decision-making these days, the overall level of interest in where Not at All Important Somewhat Important Very Important something is made has not wavered significantly in recent years, according to our latest consumer survey. It is slightly more important when origin is specified as Made in America, and shopper willingness Would you pay more for a product that is Made In America? to pay more for a Made in America product has also ticked up. Product origin plays a bigger role in apparel than footwear with 49% 49% only 38 percent of 2020 survey takers stating “I have not looked” 38% 42% for Made in USA clothing in the past year; that number rises to 34% 33% 58 percent for footwear. Sustainability is giving product origin a 19% 18% run for its money, with “Made Responsibly” ranked number one 17% in purchasing decision- making. n 2018 2019 2020 2018 2019 2020 2018 2019 2020

The survey, conducted by MESH01, included 401 respondents, men No Yes Maybe and women, with an average age of 35 years old.

Has CARPE “buy local” NO NO TRENDEM SEIZE THE TREND! become more 35% YES 43% YES important 57% Trend Insight Consumer is a feature within Textile Insight that delivers than “buy 65% research conducted on the MESH01 Platform. MESH01 collects data from Made in the a select panel of sports enthusiasts. For information on the Mesh1 Platform, USA”? contact Brian Bednarek at 603-766-0957or [email protected]. For more information on Trend Insight Consumer and how your company can 2019 2020 participate, contact Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or [email protected].

28 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.com POWERED BY www.mesh01.com

APPAREL FOOTWEAR

How recently have you looked for and purchased How recently have you looked for and purchased any apparel with the Made In USA label? any footwear with the Made In USA label? 71% 56% 58%

n 2019 n 2019 n n 2020 32% 34% 38% 2020

15% 19% 12% 13% 16% 10% 6% 6% 6% 6%

Within the Within the Within the I have Within the Within the Within the I have last 6 months past year last 3 months not looked for it last 6 months past year last 3 months not looked for it

Ranking of importance Ranking of importance when when purchasing apparel purchasing footwear

#1 Made Responsibly #1 Made Responsibly

#2 Made in America #2 Made in America

#3 Made Locally #3 Made Animal Free

#4 Made Animal Free #4 Made Locally

TECHNOLOGY

17% When considering apparel or Does the source or footwear that offers a new of the If you answered yes, which of these the company textile technology, please resources is most trusted as a technology producer rank the following in terms of source of new textile technology? (“powered by”) what’s most important to you? play a role in your purchasing decision? #1 Comfort How a Product Feels

#2 Performance How the Product Functions

#3 Style YES 8% How the Product looks #4 Smart 36% How a Product Connects to Electronics NO 5% 5% 64% Would technology 2% 2% developed in the NO YES USA be a

Textile priority? 49% 51% Start-Up Innovation Independent Academia Apparel/ Incubator Contest Inventor Supplier Footwear Brand

textileinsight.com March/April 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 29 RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN OUT OF CONTEXT RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN Post Lockdown Vagabonds RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUNIT’S RUN RUN ALL RUN RUNABOUT RUN RUN THERUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN

By Kurt Gray RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN

Recently I penned this letter to my gov- 5. Leave Boomer at Home. The infec- traveled in a car full of people in the same RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN ernor; the textile industry might find it of tion causing the freak-out is very rare in situation? Odor resistant textiles could interest as well: the young, who will really want to get out promote peace and family harmony for RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN of the house by summer. Prepare for car those on the road and rinsing their undies RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN Dear State of Colorado, camping kids. in grimy little sinks. Easy care and odor-free Without being histrionic, I think we should Thank you for serving the big square state, fabrics will find favor along with high SPF RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN consider that this coming summer could be Kurt Gray ratings and genuine versatility. Nothing like the biggest Colorado tourist travel season living out of a duffle bag to focus your mind RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN in history, by far. My reasoning follows: The textile industry might see its role shift on the garments you really need. RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN 1. Cheap Fuel. Gas is currently cheap and with this movement in a couple of ways. What happens after the vagabond camp- should stay that way with fuel consumption First is regarding the outdoor environment. ing and car travel scene explodes, and the RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN low after a long spring where everyone Living outside in the hordes buy all the white gas and folding RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN stayed home. The Coming Western U.S. during cots at the big box outdoor stores? Well, 2. Hard No to Air Travel. No one wants Tourist the summer requires the caravanners will want something to RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN to get on an airplane now, just wait until Season robust sun, wind and do, and along with trying to stay clean, there are a lot more infected Americans. Could storm protection. they’ll spend a considerable amount of RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN Airports, bus and train terminals are being Change Simple things like time shopping for supplies and searching RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN treated as hot zones. Travel by car with Textile umbrellas, awnings, for ways to make their new hobo life a your family unit is far safer. Markets. and portable sun little easier. It is a good time to reach new RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN 3. Cooped Up. With school lockdowns shades go a long customers and show a product’s worth in families will be stir-crazy by June. People way towards making their lifestyle. Road trip retail could boom. RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN will want to get out of town, and there are road life comfortable when it’s sunny and There you have it, my forecast is for the RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN a lot of people in a lot of towns that can hot. Thunderstorms are frequently exciting State of Colorado to be overwhelmed by drive here. and contain enough wind and hail to test bored, post-lockdown vacationers. I’m RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN 4. Camp Zone. Camping will be considered any tent or tarp. Expect to see increasing thinking now would be a good time to invest RUN RUN RUNFOOTWEAR RUN RUN RUN RUNINSIGHT RUN RUN | RUNSPORTS RUN RUN EDITION RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN the safest form of cross-country travel. Our importance placed on heavier, stronger, in a case of body spray and a teepee. l + RUNNING APPAREL, GEAR & ACCESSORIES organized campgrounds can barely handle more durable materials, sun-rot resistance, RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN a traditional tourist season; expect excess and overall dependability. Disclaimer: Mr. Gray claims that he invented travelers spilling over into surrounding rural Secondly is the social aspect. Have you body spray when he mixed up his deodorant RUN RUN RUNMAY RUN 2020 RUN ISSUE RUN AD RUNCLOSE: RUN APRIL RUN 17 RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN areas, rest stops, and parking lots. Gas ever used truck stop bathrooms to clean with Windex. Textile Insight’s Publisher may SHOW: OUTDOOR RETAILER SUMMER MARKET station bathrooms will get hammered. yourself for any length of time? And then not share in his opinions or hygienic rituals. RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUNContact RUN [email protected] RUN RUN RUN RUN or your RUN account RUN representative. RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN 30 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2020 textileinsight.comRUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUNIT’S RUN RUN ALL RUN RUNABOUT RUN RUN THERUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUNFOOTWEAR RUN RUN RUN RUNINSIGHT RUN RUN | RUNSPORTS RUN RUN EDITION RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN+ RUNNING RUN RUN APPAREL, RUN RUN GEAR RUN RUN & ACCESSORIES RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUNMAY RUN 2020 RUN ISSUE RUN AD RUNCLOSE: RUN APRIL RUN 17 RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUNSHOW: RUN OUTDOOR RUN RETAILER RUN RUNSUMMER RUN MARKET RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUNContact RUN [email protected] RUN RUN RUN RUN or your RUN account RUN representative. RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN RUN ANY ENVIRONMENT // EVERY LAYER // ANY CONDITIONS

THE ROAD TO SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS GOES THROUGH A WIND TUNNEL. Twenty-fi ve years ago we set the standard by inventing technical fl eece made from recycled plastic bottles. Today, we continue to research, test, and EcoEngineer fabrics that perform at an even higher level. Where sustainability and stretch are the next standard.

POLARTEC.COM \

©2020 Polartec, LLC. Polartec®, Polartec® EcoEngineering™ are registered trademarks of Polartec, LLC. WARM DRY COOL SAFE