Origin and History

•Botanical genus , first described by Linnaeus in 1753

•Bulbous natives of Western , , the Eastern Mediterranean, and naturalized in North America

•50‐70 species exist in the wild

•Member of the family

•One of the oldest cultivated , utilized in Chinese, Egyptian, Middle Eastern, Greek, and Roman civilizations

What is the difference between narcissus, daffodil, and jonquil?

•Narcissus is the scientific name for this genus of plants

•Daffodil is the common name given to the genus

•A jonquil is one of thirteen different divisions of daffodils

•Over 15,000 registered cultivars The System of Daffodil Classification

The Royal Horticultural Society, the international registrar governing the genus Narcissus, has devised a two‐part system of classification for daffodils.

The classification of a daffodil variety is based on the description and measurements of the flower as submitted by the individual(s) registering the variety.

The first part of the system is the Horticultural Divisions, in which flowers are grouped into thirteen distinct divisions based on similar physical and genetic characteristics.

The second part is the Color Code, a method of describing a variety’s general color through abbreviated letter coding (y=yellow, o=orange, r=red, p=pink, w=white, g=green). For the purpose of color coding the flower is divided into two regions, the perithianth and the corona. www.rhs.org.uk Search “Daffodil cultivar registration” for more information. www.daffseek.org American Daffodil Society’s online photo registration database. www.dafflibrary.org American Daffodil Society’s online library and archives.

Floral Anatomy

The corona, or cup

The six perianth segments, or petals Hybridizing New Varieties • Set goals—fragrance, sun‐proof colors, bizarre forms, et cetera

• Research and select appropriate parents and pedigrees—breeding material should be only the best

• Perform the cross—apply pollen from “pollen parent” onto the “seed parent”

• Collect and sow the seeds—seeds mature by early summer and are planted in early autumn

• Evaluate the seedlings—after five years, seedlings begin flowering

• Select the best clones—after ten years, superior clones are evident

• Register your selections—after fifteen years, select, name, and register names the best clones

• Introduce your selections—after twenty years, or when enough stock is available, market and sell your new daffodil varieties

Why Grow Daffodils?

•Long‐lived perennial

•Tremendous selection and long flowering period

•Adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions and exposures

•Require little maintenance

•Animal resistant

•Inexpensive long‐term investment in the landscape Basic Planting Guidelines

•Choose an appropriate site—full sun to partial shade, and well‐draining

•Determine soil’s nutrient base and composition with a simple soil test

•Cultivate soil deeply with a spade, add necessary amendments (nutrient and structural components), and till as necessary

• bulbs thrice their diameter deep and apart

•Plant only firm, solid bulbs

•Best effect when planted in groups of three to several hundred bulbs

•Provide adequate moisture at basal plate to stimulate root and foliar growth

•Label and map bulbs if so inclined; use fall foliage bulbs such as Muscari, , and to indicate the location of perennial spring bulbs

Bulbs and Extreme Weather Daffodils, like all plants, are susceptible to extreme weather. They are most vulnerable when in growth but can also suffer during dormancy.

• Freezing is most detrimental to the plant after leaves have emerged

• Frost typically causes tip damage only, sometimes creped flowers

• Heat after an extended cool spell may cause bud blast, especially in double and poeticus types

• Drought in late summer or autumn may cause stunted and malformed spring flowers

Also, cultural damage can occur from delayed mulching, premature foliage removal, pesticide drift, etc.

Diseases of Daffodils

Daffodils, like all plants, are not entirely immune to disease. The most commonly encountered diseases are:

• Narcissus Yellow Stripe Virus (NYSV), appearing as irregular linear light green or yellow striping in the foliage

• Mosaic Virus appearing as irregular streaking of lighter colors in the flowers

• Basal Rot Fungus appearing as a brown soft rot in the , beginning at the basal plate and extending upward

Human activity—gardening—is the primary vector for these diseases. There is no cure, only prevention through sound gardening practice. Landscape Considerations

•Daffodil selection should encompass early through late‐season flowering varieties for the longest possible display

•Provide multi‐seasonal interest with companion plants. Annuals, perennials, smaller shrubs, and other hardy bulbs tolerant of drier summer conditions are best.

•Keep summer irrigation to a minimum—daffodils prefer drier conditions while dormant

•Deadheading is for aesthetics only and is unnecessary for long term sustainability

•Division is only necessary when the bulbs become crowded and their flowering diminishes

•Never cut, tie, or braid foliage, regardless of appearance; emppyloy non‐competitive companion plants to conceal maturing foliage Resources for Success

•Visit regional daffodil shows and display gardens to see the many types of daffodils available

•Talk with daffodil society members to learn which varieties grow best in your region

•Reference the American Daffodil Society’s website for regional society contact information, bulb growing information, and bulb resources (www.daffodilusa.org)

Jason’s Recommended General Bulb Suppliers

• John Scheepers, Inc., www.johnscheepers.com • Van Engelen, Inc., wholesale flower bulbs, www. vanengelen.com • Colorblends, Inc., www.colorblends.com • White Flower Farm, www.whiteflowerfarm.com • Brent and Becky’s Bulbs, www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com • Living Gardens, www.livinggardens.com • Dutch Grown, www.dutchgrown.com • PHS Daffodils, www.phsdaffodils.com

Specialty daffodil resources can be found on the American Daffodil Society’s website, www.daffodilusa.org.