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Asimple way The bestreason to show off? to reconsider Bake alattice- Riesling: It’s not crustpie all sweet D4 D5

EATING |DRINKING |STYLE |FASHION |DESIGN |DECORATING |ADVENTURE |TRAVEL |GEAR|GADGETS

© 2017Dow Jones & Company. All Rights Reserved. **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Saturday/Sunday, July 15 - 16, 2017|D1

TAKE MONDAY OFF MaxOut Want afoolproof long summer weekend in the French-Canadian metropolis?Pack this don’t-waste-a-minuteguide JOURNAL REET ST LL WA THE R FO U SIMONEA UME GUILLA

ACCENTSWILL HAPPEN Clockwise from top: Afloating cafe on the ; the George-Étienne Cartier monument in Mount RoyalPark; PatricePatissier,apastry’boutique’ and brunch spot in the neighborhood; the garden at Joe Beef,the restaurant that got people talking about Little Burgundy.

seeks out JoeBeef, the in- ramps with shrimp tara- other shops and cafes BY GABRIELLA GERSHENSON DAYONE // FRIDAY ventiverestaurant that put masalataand blackcurrant along Rue Notre Dame 6p.m. ArriveatPierreEl- the working-classLittle softserve (2519 Notre- Ouest. Beige offers taste- MUCH HASBEEN made about the duality of Mon- liottTrudeau International Burgundy neighborhood on Dame St. W., vinpapil- ful housewares, like bot- treal—a major North American city with a Airport, named forCan- the map.Atthe risk of be- lon.com). tle-green tumblers (2480 staunchly Francophone identity—and itsantiquity, ada’sfour-term prime min- ing predictable,hit it up Notre-Dame St. W., beige- too. While Canada marks its150th birthdaythis ister and father of the cur- firstbut order an aperitivo DAYTWO // SATURDAY style.com), while Stock- year,Montreal, an early French-colonial fur-trade rent prime minister.Cab it at the bar instead of din- 9:30 a.m. Start with Markt (2664 Notre-Dame town, is turning 375. But far from aquaint Gallic to Hotel William Gray,an ner.Try the plateau de mer breakfast at PatricePâtis- St. W., boutiquestock- relic,the country’ssecond-most-populous city has upscale boutique hotel on with oysters,Quebec snow sier, back in Little Bur- markt.com) is a discount arestlessly creativespirit, with homegrownand the old port of the St.Law- crab and cold-smoked scal- gundy,wherethe kouign outlet disguised as a chic immigrant influences driving itsfood, art and mu- renceRiver (from about lops in maple syrup (You’ll amann and other pastries boutique (think James sic scenes.Locals,who scuttle down frozenstreets $320 anight in summer, need areservation, even at arereliably excellent. Perse and Maison Kit- during infamously harsh winters, treat summertime hotelwilliamgray.com) or to the bar; 2491-2501 Notre- Starting at 11 a.m., brunch suné). At Marché Atwa- with euphoric reverence: riding miles along river- Casa Bianca, astylish B&B Dame St. W., joebeef.ca). is served; the savory ter, a sprawling art-deco- side bikepaths, insisting on picnics and hopping in the bohemian Plateau dishes,such as baked eggs era market, choose from one festival to the next. You’ll still see rem- neighborhood (from$130 a 9p.m. Walk afew doors with homemade sausage provisions for an al fresco nantsofJune’spublic mural fest (including a9- night, casabianca.ca). down to JoeBeef’s veggie- and juicycherrytomatoes, snack (138 Atwater Ave., storylikenessofnative son LeonardCohen) in July focused sister restaurant areasfinely honed as the www.marche-atwa- and August, which usher in music performances as 7:30 p.m. Everytraveler Le VinPapillon.Sit in the sweets (2360 Notre-Dame ter.com). Fromagerie varied as the riffs on poutine,Quebec’speculiar who arrives in Montreal garden and round out your St. W., patricepatissier.ca). Hamel is a good one-stop French-frydelicacy. Here, athree-dayguide to help armed with alist of must- evening repast with hyper- shop for bread, fresh youseizesummer too. tryrestaurantsinvariably seasonal tempura-fried 11:30 a.m. Browse the PleaseturntopageD2

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ODE TO ASCOTTISH MISADVENTURE MY FAVORITE ROOM Aliterarytouristrecreates the glitch-filled Deconstructing astoried spacechosen by walking tour Keats took in 1818 D3 interior designer Frank de Biasi D8

GETTHE DRIFT THIS RUSSIA THING Graduatetoabetter class of poolfloat with In the fashion world, Eastern European this guide to fancybuoyancy D9 influenceisincreasingly welcome D6 P2JW196000-4-D00200-1------XA

D2 | Saturday/Sunday, July 15 - 16, 2017 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. ADVENTURE & TRAVEL ALONG WEEKEND,S’IL VOUS PLAIT

ContinuedfrompageD1 cheese curds, and Palette de Bine chocolate made in nearby Mount Tremblant (138 Atwater Ave., fromageriehamel.com).

1:30 p.m. Pick up abikefromthe Bixi bike-shareterminal at Charlev- oix and DuvernayStreets, and take Charlevoix intoLachine Canal Park, arehabilitated industrial canal with aleafybikepath.Ride about 20 minutes to , stopping along the way to refuel with your market spoils.

3p.m. Dock your bikeatPlace Jacques Cartier and walk five min- utes to Scandinave LesBains,a spa in Old Montreal that promotes THE GREAT BITE NORTH Clockwise relaxation the Scandinavian way— from topleft:Atwater Market; Hotel by alternating between hot and cold William Gray;abeer with cassis and pools,steam rooms and saunas and cherriesatBrasserie Harricana. with excellent massages (71 de la Commune W., scandinave.com). 2 p.m. Exit the park and take a cab 10 minutes to Jean Talon 8:30 p.m. Fordinner,goto Market, located in Petite Italie Moishe’s,aJewish-Romanian (7070 Henri-Julien Ave.; marches- steakhouse that’sbeen in business publics-mtl.com). Snack your way since1938,and wasalocal haunt of through roughly six city blocks of LeonardCohen’s. Order the chopped seasonal bounty, prepared foods, liver and the grilled rib steak (3961 charcuterie and cheeses, with a St. Laurent Blvd., moishes.ca). stop at the incomparable spice youstill have some desirable dinner shop Épices de Cru for a nonper- options. Lémeac,adestination 11 p.m. Walk five minutes up St. ishable memento of Montreal steak French bistroonelegant Avenue Laurent to Divan Orange,afunky seasoning (C-11, 7070 Henri Julien Laurier in Outremont, is the place venue fornational andlocal music, Ave., 514-273-1118). to order classics,likeanexemplary with actsranging from DJsspinning kir royale and steak tartarewith vintageAfro-Caribbean vinyl to 3 p.m. Explore the rest of Little It- matchstick frites (1045 Avenue Lau- quirkyQuébécois folk.The vibe is aly. Caffè Italia, a frozen-in-time rier W., restaurantlemeac.com). relaxed (kombucha plus vodka espresso bar that’s been open equals acocktail) and dancing is en- since 1956, guarantees prime peo- 10 p.m. End the night at La Sala couraged (4234 St Laurent Blvd., di- ple watching day and night (6840 Rossa,aperformancespaceina vanorange.org). St Laurent Blvd.). Nearby is Quin- former Spanish social center—in caillerie Dante, a family-run kitch- the heart of ahistorically Jewish DAYTHREE // SUNDAY enware and hunting store where neighborhood. Thevenue pays 10 a.m. Brunch at Hof Kelsten, a you can buy a butter curler or a ri- homagetothe area’smulticultural- casual bakery-cafe opened by a fle (6851 St Dominique St., quin- ism with eclectic programming that, fine-dining veteraninthe Plateau cailleriedante.com). Since this is on anygiven night, could feature neighborhood.Order the merguez Quebec, great poutine—the folk,spoken word or breakdance. sausageshakshuka, or go light with French-Canadian fries, gravy and Cover is about $15 (4848 St. Lau- the vegetarian sandwich—labneh, cheese curd specialty—is just a rent Blvd., lasalarossa.com). pickled vegetables and cilantro, few minutes away at Chez Tousig- served open-faceonpumpernickel nant, a retro-style snack bar. Have DAYFOUR // MONDAY (4524 St Laurent Blvd., hofkel- a late lunch of poutine and ahot 10:30 a.m. Check out of the hotel sten.com). dog,whose bun and sausageare but leave your bagstopick up later. made from scratch (6956 Drolet St., Take a15-minutetaxi to Mile End, 11:30 a.m. Walk 10 minutes to the cheztousignant.com).After that aformer Jewish enclave,and set- corner of Mont Royaland Parc Ave- you’ll welcome the 10-minutewalk ting of the 1959 novel, “The Ap- nues and enter Mount RoyalPark,a to Brasserie Harricana,abrewpub prenticeship of Duddy Kravitz,” nearly 500-acreurban sanctuary forbeer obsessives; it boaststhe writtenbynotable Montrealer Mor- designed by Frederick LawOlmsted. city’s sole Flux Capacitor draftsys- decai Richler.Now it’sone of the Hikeuphill to Chalet du Mont tem, which regulates each beer’s city’s coolest neighborhoods.Eat Royal (about a40-minutetrek), a gascomposition, gaspressureand breakfastatthe hip all-dayrestau- 1932 villa with spectacular views of temperature (95 Jean-Talon St. W., rant Larry’s. Order aflakyscone or downtownMontreal, the St.Law- brasserieharricana.com). the breakfast sandwich with house- renceRiver and on aclear day, the made sausageand egg (9 Fairmount Quebec countryside (1196 Voie Ca- 7p.m. Though manyrestaurantsin Ave. E., larrys.website). millien-Houde). Montreal areclosed on Sundays, 12 p.m. Indulgeinlast-minutesou- venir shopping in and around Mile WALL-TO-WALL End. Grab abag of Montreal-style A portrait of bagels (skinny, sweet, coveredin Jackie Robinson sesame seeds) at 98-year-old Fair- by Fluke, painted mount Bagels (74 Avenue Fair- for this summer’s mount W., fairmountbagel.com). mural festival. ForapieceofMontreal cool, stop OCK at La Montréalaise, awomen’s HANC boutique that sells tees and sweat-

shirts with slogans like“Je Parle GULLIVER

Feministe” (65 Rue St. Viateur E., ES

lamontrealaiseatelier.com), or chic JAM high-end apparel at Les Étoffes BY (5253 St. Laurent Blvd.) Forthe ION AT

boys,men’soutfitters Frank +Oak TR US

is ablock away,with abarber shop ILL on premises foremergencybeard MAP trims (160 St. Viateur St. E., frank- andoak.com). One avenue up is the

singular Librarie Drawn&Quar- JOURNAL;

terly, an indie bookstoredevoted REET

entirely to graphic novels (211 Ber- ST nard St. W., drawnandquar- LL WA terly.com). THE R FO

2:30 p.m. On your way back to the U hotel, stop at Schwartz’s, pur-

veyor of the Montreal smoked SIMONEA meat sandwich, a cross between UME pastrami and corned beef. Order

two for the flight home, specify GUILLA lean, medium, or fatty, and don’t forget the pickle (3895 St. Laurent RAW AMBITION A plateau de mer at Joe Beef, a foodie pilgrimage site Blvd., schwartzsdeli.com). known for its raw bar offerings.