AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7

Review Article AJODRR (2019) 2:7

American Journal of Dermatological Research and Reviews (ISSN:2638-1893)

An Extensive Review of in Use AK Mohiuddin, Assistant Professor Department of , World University of Bangladesh 151/8, Green Road Dhanmondi, Dhaka – 1205, Bangladesh ABSTRACT The word “cosmetics” actually stems from its use in . They *Correspondence to Author: were typically produced by female slaves known as “cosmetae,” which is where the word “cosmetics” stemmed from. Cosmetics are used to enhance AK Mohiuddin, Assistant Professor appearance. Makeup has been around for many centuries. The first known Department of Pharmacy, World people who used cosmetics to enhance their beauty were the Egyptians. Makeup those days was just simple coloring or some material for the University of Bangladesh 151/8, body. Now-a-days makeup plays an important role for both men and women. In evolutionary psychology, social competition of appearance strengthens Green Road Dhanmondi, Dhaka – women’s desires for ideal beauty. According to “The Origin of Species”, hu- 1205, Bangladesh mans have evolved to transfer genes to future generations through sexual selection that regards the body condition of ideal beauty as excellent fertility. Additionally, since women’s beauty has recently been considered a competi- tive advantage to create social power, a body that meets the social standards of a culture could achieve limited social resources. That’s right, even men have become more beauty conscious and are concerned about their looks. Cosmetics can be produced in the organic and form to meet How to cite this article: the demands of users. Makeup is used as a beauty aid to help build up the AK Mohiuddin.An Extensive Re- self-esteem and confidence of an individual. The importance of cosmetics has increased as many people want to stay young and attractive. Cosmet- view of Cosmetics in Use.American ics are readily available today in the form of creams, , , eye shadows, polishes, sprays etc. Other cosmetics like Journal of Dermatological Research give glow to the after applying the base . Then we have , and Reviews, 2019, 2:7 which are applied by many women of all ages. They are made from and in the desired amount. Cosmetics like creams, , and colognes are used on a daily basis by both women and men. Creams act as a for the face in many circumstances. More recently anti-ageing creams have been manufactured which can retain younger looking skin for many years. The best cleansing agents are cleansing cream, and wa- ter. Cosmetic creams serve as a skin for hard, dry and chapped skin. It mainly lubricates, softens and removes unwanted dirt from the skin. Some popular fat creams that are used include and . Dry creams are used in the manufacture of soap and which is used as a base for eSciPub LLC, Houston, TX USA. the skin. has become one of the fastest developing markets in the beauty . Many young men turn to oils and gels to maintain and style Website: https://escipub.com/ their hair. Products like hair gels, oils, and have been introduced in the market to help protect hair fall and dandruff. Some professions, like the industry, focus on the importance of the outer appearance. Many personalities and artists have utilized makeup to beat the harsh lights and the glare of camera flashes. They very know the importance of their looks and maintain them by using a variety of cosmetics. Their appearance is their most valuable asset and they take every endeavor to appear as the fans want them to appear. Recent research has shown that makeup helps in protection from harmful rays of the sun. Many beauty products manufac- turers have utilized the needs of people to protect themselves and their skin from the rays of the sun. This is a great achievement because earlier make up and sun protection could not blend together. The Importance of Cosmet- ics Today Cosmetics help to enhance our appearance and make us feel more confident. With more cosmetics on the market today than ever before, it becomes obvious to us that they play a great role in our everyday life.

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 1 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 Background , particularly under the Shang Dynasty (in 1760 BC). A powdered face with smooth skin History of --Though cosmetics have was extremely popular and white were likely existed for even longer, the first evidence used to achieve the whitest complexion of cosmetics stems from , possible. Taking it another step further, many approximately 6,000 years ago. They used also used gels and lotions to permanently bleach cosmetics for a variety of reasons, the first being their skin. As skincare moved to and the for mummification, burial traditions, and Middle East, new ingredients and methods were honoring their Gods and Goddesses. They also invented and introduced. The first used cosmetics to protect them from the was developed using rose oil and water, and elements — mainly sun rays and . melting into it. They used the mineral Egyptians - like using aloe, myrrh, and alum to treat scabs and used olive to fight . These products, particularly . They combined vinegar and lead to make frankincense, were believed to possess anti- a whitening and used it to get rid of inflammatory properties and were used as anti- and whiten their skin. During the wrinkle creams by Ancient Egyptians. Makeup Elizabethan Era, many Europeans used this was created using a variety of products including whitening foundation. At the time, it wasn’t metal ore, copper, water, oil, animal fat, and popular to wash their and/or bodies, so precious stones. While Ancient Greeks and typically, they piled on layer after layer of the Romans used the ideas of the Ancient whitening foundation to achieve a look as pale Egyptians, they took their skincare and beauty as possible. Despite the many social strides one step further. Many Greeks and made in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, dark Romans would spend an entire day at the “spa” skin was still seen as undesirable. Skin to focus on their skin. Women commonly used whitening was as popular as ever and products white lead, crocodile dung, and chalk in order to were made nearly exclusively for light skinned lighten the appearance of their skin. They also women. By the 1920’s, a shift in beauty ideals created face masks with and eggs, which caused slightly tanned skin to be seen as were believed to tighten the skin, reduce desirable. Cosmetics, in turn, followed this trend. wrinkles, and keep the face looking as youthful Tinted face powders and lotions that emulated a as possible. This was even more common in tan were introduced.

Figure 1. The Beauty of Yesterday: Ancient Egypt [183]. Often referred to as the vainest civilization in history, Ancient Egyptians are known to have played a vital role in shaping modern

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 2 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 ideals of beauty. For example, these populations used , and milk to keep their skin wrinkle free, as well as the from clay to create and cheek tints to recreate a healthy glow. Another prime example is their use of a charcoal-like substance called to create thick black lines around their to enhance their natural shape, believing that by following this technique, it would also protect their eyes from the glare of the sun. Abstract women and men. Creams act as a cleanser for The word “cosmetics” actually stems from its use the face in many circumstances. More recently in Ancient Rome. They were typically produced anti-ageing creams have been manufactured by female slaves known as “cosmetae,” which is which can retain younger looking skin for many where the word “cosmetics” stemmed from. years. The best cleansing agents are cleansing Cosmetics are used to enhance appearance. cream, soap and water. Cosmetic creams serve Makeup has been around for many centuries. as a skin food for hard, dry and chapped skin. It The first known people who used cosmetics to mainly lubricates, softens and removes enhance their beauty were the Egyptians. unwanted dirt from the skin. Some popular fat Makeup those days was just simple eye coloring creams that are used include Vaseline and or some material for the body. Now-a-days Lanolin. Dry creams are used in the manufacture makeup plays an important role for both men of soap and gelatin which is used as a base for and women. In evolutionary psychology, social the skin. Hair care has become one of the fastest competition of appearance strengthens developing markets in the beauty industry. Many women’s desires for ideal beauty. According to young men turn to oils and gels to maintain and “The Origin of Species”, have evolved style their hair. Products like hair gels, oils, and to transfer genes to future generations through lotions have been introduced in the market to sexual selection that regards the body condition help protect hair fall and dandruff. Some of ideal beauty as excellent fertility. Additionally, professions, like the show business industry, since women’s beauty has recently been focus on the importance of the outer considered a competitive advantage to create appearance. Many personalities and artists have social power, a body that meets the social utilized makeup to beat the harsh lights and the standards of a culture could achieve limited glare of camera flashes. They very well know the social resources. That's right, even men have importance of their looks and maintain them by become more beauty conscious and are using a variety of cosmetics. Their appearance concerned about their looks. Cosmetics can be is their most valuable asset and they take every produced in the organic and hypoallergenic form endeavor to appear as the fans want them to to meet the demands of users. Makeup is used appear. Recent research has shown that as a beauty aid to help build up the self-esteem makeup helps in protection from harmful rays of and confidence of an individual. The importance the sun. Many beauty products manufacturers of cosmetics has increased as many people have utilized the needs of people to protect want to stay young and attractive. Cosmetics are themselves and their skin from the rays of the readily available today in the form of creams, sun. This is a great achievement because earlier lipstick, perfumes, eye shadows, nail polishes, make up and sun protection could not blend hair sprays etc. Other cosmetics like face together. The Importance of Cosmetics Today powder give glow to the skin after applying the Cosmetics help to enhance our appearance and base cream. Then we have lipsticks, which are make us feel more confident. With more applied by many women of all ages. They are cosmetics on the market today than ever before, made from wax and cocoa butter in the desired it becomes obvious to us that they play a great amount. Cosmetics like creams, gels, and role in our everyday life. colognes are used on a daily basis by both

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 3 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7

Figure 2. Famous Beauty Quote, Merlyn Monroe [66-68]. The "blonde bombshell" had a heavy peach fuzz “” but refused to wax it off. But her so called “imperfection” never left without cosmetics. Monroe used five different lipsticks and glosses to create her pouty look. Between jobs, she was said to have applied baby powder on the roots of her hair. To get skin glow, Monroe slathered on thick layers of Vaseline or Cream under her makeup before getting in front of the camera. She was also a huge fan of , olive oil, and lanolin. She wasn’t always a blonde bombshell—she was born a brunette. She dyed her hair golden blonde when a modeling agency told her it would make her more successful.

Introduction cosmetics are often “functional.” Products for A cosmetic product is defined as ‘a substance or whitening, wrinkle care, moisturizing, and preparation intended for placement in contact treating pores, spots, etc. are produced to meet with any external part of the body' (this the needs of today’s consumers. Thus, some includes the mouth and teeth). We use cosmetic products contain quasi-, although cosmetics to cleanse, , protect and their effects on the body remain mild and gentle. change the appearance of our bodies or to alter Because cosmetics are freely used by its odors. Products that claim to ‘modify a bodily consumers with no daily-exposure limits, the process or prevent, diagnose, cure or alleviate of quasi-drugs (and other any disease, ailment or defect’ are called ingredients) through the skin needs to be therapeutics. Whatever the process one wishes carefully controlled, which makes monitoring to take, there is one goal in mind: covering up absorption one of the imperfections (Figure 2). Most cosmetic important subjects in cosmetic science. Though products are complex of chemical use and acceptance of the term “cosmeceutical” compounds that are directly applied to the skin. may largely be confined to the U.S., Unlike pharmaceutical products, cosmetics are knowledgeable and increasingly demanding not intended to cure diseases. However, modern consumers have no national borders – and the onus to live up to these demands is on both AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 4 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 owners and ingredient suppliers. beauty products for their needs – and value is According to research firm Kline & Company’s determined first on efficacy. On the face of it, “Specialty Actives in 2011: U.S. reaching today’s consumers and winning their Market Analysis and Opportunities,” a growing buy for the long term seems an ever more consumer understanding of active ingredients in daunting proposition, but their quest and hunger personal care products, driven by extensive for ever more efficacious and intriguing products consumer media coverage, is pressuring actually translates to more opportunities to suppliers of active ingredients to produce innovate for new unmet needs. Turning innovative products (“innovative” and “active” into success, though, will truly are the hallmarks of cosmeceuticals). When depend on an open and honest conversation seeking out personal care, consumers want the with consumers – listening to their needs and new and exciting, while their expectations for being as clear as possible about claims and the and of functional and efficacious ingredients and potential for any given product. Brand owners products grow. In addition, as a result of global must convey the value of new ingredients, economics, consumer frugality has become the formulas and products through clear language, new normal, and this, too, plays a role in what with explanations of benefits based on scientific consumers expect from the performance of their studies or other trials. Backing good ingredients products. Consumers will continue to spend on and products by developing smart marketing beauty products, but as their spending power campaigns that are able to convey appropriate decreases, they’re ever quicker to move on from expectations from the use of products will foster a product they deem as not living up to its a significant connection with consumers – and promises. Consumers set the parameters and that translates to the growth of business. will continue to seek out the most effective

Figure 3. How Do Plant Stem Cells Help Hair Growth? [69,70]. Plant stem cells possess similar genetic factors as human stem cells and can be used to influence the function of certain cells in our skin and hair follicles. Active plant stem cells work to increase the lifespan of hair follicles so that hair can remain in the anagen phase of the hair growth cycle for a longer period of time. Another

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 5 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 hair-growth benefit of Asparagus Stem Cells is their ability to block the most common hair-killing hormone, DHT. High levels of DHT, as well as sensitivity to the hormone, are known for causing most male-pattern baldness and even female alopecia. Asparagus Stem Cells can aid the receptors in the skin to block the intrusion of DHT, and therefore minimizing the caused by it.

General Use of Cosmetics the cheekbones appear more defined. This Cosmetic is a Greek word which means to comes in powder, cream, and forms. 'adorn' (addition of something decorative to a • Bronzer, used to give skin a bit of color by person or a thing). It may be defined as a adding a golden or bronze glow. substance which comes in contact with various • Mascara is used to darken, lengthen, and parts of the like skin, hair, nail, , thicken the . It is available in teeth, and mucous membranes etc. Cosmetic natural colors such as brown and black, but substances help in improving or changing the also comes in bolder colors such as blue, outward show of the body and also masks the pink, or purple. There are many different odor of the body. It protects the skin and keeps formulas, including waterproof for those of us it in good condition. In general, cosmetics are prone to or sudden tears. external preparations which are applied on the • , , eye shimmer, and external parts the body. Even in earlier days, glitter eye pencils as well as different color men and women used to decorate their bodies pencils used to color and emphasize the for improvement of appearance. Men used eyelids (larger eyes give a more youthful leaves of vegetables and parts of animals appearance). whereas women use to wear colored stones and flowers round their neck and wrist. Gradually, • pencils, creams, , gels and they start using colored and ointments on powders are used to color and define the their face and body. Even bangles and necklace brows. made of baked earth materials became very • , used to color the fingernails and common among the people. Eye shadow were toenails. made of copper (colored earth) ore and lamp • , Makeup used to cover any black (colored earth) while color was used imperfections of the skin. for dyeing of hair. Now days, cosmetics are considered as essential components in life. They • A hair growth tonic contains, as an active not only, attract the people towards it but also ingredient, a filtrate of lactic acid bacterial impart psychological effects. It has gained culture such as Streptococcus lactis, and popularity in the last 3-4 decades and its use has Lactobacillus bulgaricus. The use of this type been increased exponentially both-in males and of hair growth tonic promotes hair females (Figure 5). The most popular cosmetics regeneration, hair growth and hair are hair dyes, powders and creams. nourishment. Modern is using plant stem cells to influence the function of • Foundation, used to smooth out the face and certain cells in our skin and hair follicles cover spots or uneven skin coloration. (Figure 3). Usually a liquid, cream, or powder. Also included in the general category of • Powder, used to set the foundation, giving a cosmetics are skin care products. These matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws include creams and lotions to moisturize the or blemishes. face and body, to protect the skin • , blush or blusher, cheek coloring used from damaging UV radiation, and treatment to bring out the color in the cheeks and make products to repair or hide skin imperfections AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 6 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, ; powders, both pressed and etc.). Cosmetics can also be described by the loose; dispersions; and anhydrous creams or form of the product, as well as the area for sticks [1-5]. application. Cosmetics can be liquid or cream

Figure 4. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and there is nothing better than a pair of gorgeous eyes [184]. Made from an extract of nightshade berries, also called , the resulting eyedrops dilate the pupils, providing a soft and seductive effect, just like in a romance scene of a novel where someone’s eyes ‘darken with desire.’ In Italy, this dusky, lustrous appearance of a lady’s eyes was considered to be the height of beauty. One drop per eye would block receptors in the muscles of the eye that constrict pupil size. As one might suspect, this comes at an immediate cost to vision, resulting in blurriness and inability to focus on close objects. Though this would wear off over time, prolonged use of belladonna could cause permanent vision distortion or blindness. It also carried the side effect of increased heart rate because, let’s not forget, this was made of poison.

Exhibit 1. Interesting facts from [33-36], [64,65] Women are susceptible to the societal pressures of using cosmetics to beautify themselves. One theory behind the of the ♀ symbol used to denote “” is that it represents the hand used by the Roman goddess Venus or the Greek goddess Aphrodite. In their efforts to look beautiful, both men and women apply cosmetics to hide their flaws and accentuate their features. Cosmetics have been a part of human history as far back as the ancient Egyptians. The ancient Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks used various ingredients to soften, improve, exfoliate, and detoxify skin. The ancient Romans and Greeks used walnut extracts as hair dye, antimony (a known toxic heavy metal) as eye shadow, white lead carbonate as a skin lightener, charcoal crocodile excrement as a skin darkener, and cinnabar as rouge. Atropa Belladona is a poisonous plant called deadly nightshade. The name belladonna comes from the Italian, meaning beautiful lady, originating either from its use as a cosmetic, or, more probably, from its use to increase

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 7 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 pupil size in women because during the Renaissance the herb was used in eye-drops by women to dilate the pupils of the eyes to make them appear seductive (Figure 4). In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into . Society women wear egg whites over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Women in Ancient Egypt used kohl, a substance containing powdered galena (lead sulphide—PbS) to darken their eyelids, and is said to have bathed in milk to whiten and soften her skin. By 3000 B.C men and women in China had begun to stain their fingernails with colors according to their social class. The Chinese stained their fingernails with , gelatin, beeswax, and egg. Chou dynasty royals wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals wearing black or red. Lower classes were forbidden to wear bright colors on their nails. Greek women used poisonous lead carbonate (PbCO3) to achieve a pale complexion. Clays were ground into pastes for cosmetic use in traditional African societies and still use a wide range of crushed rocks and minerals to create body paint for ceremonies and initiations.

Figure 5. Modern Day Cosmetics [71,72]. Professional makeup artists have been perfecting techniques to get ordinary beauty products to multi-task for years. Cosmetics companies are now using advanced technology to develop multi-purpose products that emulate these techniques. Foundations are no longer designed to simply smooth complexions. Many now boast different ingredients to target varying skin needs, such as for acne or for dry skin. Numerous have also created multipurpose stains with a creamy consistency and a neutral color that can be used on cheeks, lips and eyes. Some shades of these creamy all-over-color sticks also offer a little shimmer or gold sparkle, so that it can glide across eyebrow bones, shoulders or as a -- Lauren Balukonis, beauty division at 5W Public Relations.

Products classified as Cosmetics un-medicated creams are highly used in a ▪ Skin Creams be considered pharmaceutical variety of skin conditions in ancient times, products as even cosmetic creams are based creams were simply prepared by mixing of on techniques developed by pharmacy and two or more ingredients using water as the AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 8 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 solvent. With the advancement in based mascaras, liquid eye shadows and technology, newer methods are used for ointments. If an is sufficiently low formulation of creams. These semisolid to be pourable (flow under influence preparations are elegant to use by the public of gravity alone) is referred to as . and society. They show versatility in their Creams are emulsions of oil and water. In functions. Creams can be applied to any part coming future, more advanced of the body with ease. It is convenient to use and methods will be used for preparation, cream by all the age group of people. formulation and evaluation of creams. Also, Although it may be equally well applied to the demand of herbal constituents-based non-aqueous products such as wax-solvent creams is increasing day by day [74-79].

Figure 6. Skin Creams [168]. In general, creams for the skin should protect it from the sun and environmental pollutants, while also treating any specific problems. Look for the highest quality ingredients to ensure a cream's ability to live up to its claims. Enhance the circulation of blood flow by massaging creams into your skin several times a day.

▪ Lips makeup- Lipstick, , , lip product may come with an applicator brush, plumper, , , lip conditioner, lip directly through the applicator, rollerball, or , lip boosters, and lip butters. Lipsticks could be applied with a finger. Lip glosses are are intended to add color and texture to the intended to add shine to the lips and may add lips and often come in a wide range of colors, a tint of color, as well as being scented or as well as finishes such as matte, satin, gloss flavored for a pop of fun. Lip balms are most and luster. Lip stains have a water or often used to moisturize, tint, and protect the base and may contain alcohol to help the lips. Some brands contain . Using product stay on leaving a matte look. They a priming lip product such as lip balm or temporarily saturate the lips with a dye. chapstick can prevent chapped lips [6-8], Usually designed to be waterproof, the [73].

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Figure 7. Lip Color [169,170], [181]. Makeup artists and advertisements for cosmetics often claim that lip color can influence facial skin’s apparent lightness. Currently, we do not have scientific evidence to either support or deny these claims. The luminance contrast between facial features and facial skin is greater in women than in men, and women's use of make-up enhances this contrast. In black-and-white photographs, increased luminance contrast enhances and attractiveness in women's faces, but reduces masculinity and attractiveness in men's faces. In Caucasians, much of the contrast between the lips and facial skin is in redness. Red lips have been considered attractive in women in geographically and temporally diverse cultures, possibly because they mimic vasodilation associated with eternal desire.

Primers are so beloved by experts because they Many makeup primers are formulated with can do so much more than just make foundation -based , like dimethicone, go on smoother. Primers are sort of like because of their ultra-smoothing effects. for makeup. Although they often wear Photoaged skin results from various many hats — smoothing, concealing, protecting environmental factors, most importantly chronic and prepping — their main roles are to keep sun exposure. Dyschromia and fine makeup on longer and give skin a smooth, lines/wrinkles are common clinical flawless finish. This creates another layer manifestations of photodamaged skin. The facial between skin to prevent acne and makeup primer was shown to be effective and well clogging up pores. Primer creates an even tone tolerated for immediate and long-term throughout the skin and makes makeup last improvement in the appearance of mild-to- longer. Primer is applied throughout the face moderate hyperpigmentation and fine lines including eyes, lips, and lashes. This product associated with photodamage when used over a has a creamy texture and applies smoothly. 12-week period [82-85]. AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 10 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7

Figure 8. Comparison Between Before and After Use of Mineral Primer [84], [171]. Photoaged skin is largely a result of chronic exposure to UV radiation. Photoaging, which causes premature aging in the appearance and function of the skin, is similar to chronological aging in that it is cumulative over time. Women frequently seek effective treatment for their irregular pigmentation as well as other clinical manifestations of photodamaged skin. The facial primer improved scores for the appearance of hyperpigmentation and other photoaging parameters immediately after the first application.

▪ Concealer covers imperfections of the skin. well as creating a fresh clean base for all the Many people try to manage acne by rest of the makeup. This product also squeezing pimples, following a thorough skin brightens up the skin and applying under the care routine or wearing foundation. Others foundation can remove blemishes and hope things will improve if they change their discoloration because of acne scars. In diet or expose their skin to sunlight. females, in particular, there is a need for Concealer is often used for any extra cosmetic products that can effectively cover coverage needed to cover acne/pimple the signs of this highly visible skin condition blemishes, undereye circles, and other to reduce the emotional impact of the imperfections. Concealer is often thicker and disease. Use of cosmetics can also increase more solid than foundation, and provides acne patients’ adherence with their medical longer lasting, more detailed coverage as regimen, which is estimated to be poor in

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 11 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 50% of patients. Perhaps the most important Pen, which has corrective colors to help tone type of concealer is the corrective type, and down ruddiness, fade the appearance of is most effective in a liquid formula, like La- hyperpigmentation, and yes, even cover up Roche Posay Toleriane Teint Corrective any more irritating blemishes [86-90].

Figure 9. Pimpled and no pimpled Britney [185,186]. At glamorous, Hollywood events, the “…. baby one more time” star Britney Spears' skin seems flawless, but in reality, this is far from the truth: redness, pimples, rashes – the singer knows all of these problems too well, first hand. However, Girls and women often use concealer or foundation to cover up their pimples. This makes them feel more comfortable in public. Young men sometimes use subtle foundation, powder and concealer as well. classic form of foundation, liquid, offers ▪ Foundation is used to smooth out the face by medium to full coverage for all skin types, covering spots, acne, blemishes, or uneven and is a sure-fire way to achieve a smooth skin tone. These are sold in a liquid, cream, base [2], [91-94]. or powder, or more recently in a mousse. ▪ sets the foundation and under Foundation provides sheer, matte, dewy or eye concealer, giving it a matte finish while full coverage. Foundation primer is applied also concealing small flaws or blemishes. It before foundation to fill out pores, create a can also be used to bake the foundation, so dewy look or create a smoother finish. They that it stays on longer and create a matte usually come in cream formulas to be applied finish. Tinted face powders may be worn before foundation as a base. The most alone as a light foundation so that the full

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 12 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 face does not look as caked-up as it could. makeup bag staple to a starring role in almost Loose powder comes in a jar, has smaller every red-carpet beauty look. Rouge comes particles (and therefore a finer consistency), in powder, cream, and liquid forms. Different and usually gives lightweight coverage. It’s blush colors are used to compliment different also messy and hard to transport, so this guy skin tones. The ancient Egyptians were the is meant to stay at home. The difference first to incorporate blush into their beauty between setting powder and finishing powder rituals. The saw a drop in the is a little nebulous. Many companies use use of blush, as red cheeks were associated these terms interchangeably, so it’s partially with prostitutes. During the 1500s to the a matter of marketing [6-8], [95-97]. 1700s, blush was made with toxic chemicals. ▪ Rouge, blush, or blusher is cheek coloring to Starting in the 1900s, as America became bring out the color in the cheeks and make industrialized, blush began to be mass the cheekbones appear more defined. Blush produced and became much safer to use [98- is having a major moment, graduating from 100].

Figure 10. Disney princess, Snow White (Fairy Tale) [172,173]. In the time that Snow White was released it was a common for the majority of women desired to have blush in their faces like her. Rouge originated as a thick , and was made from a range of things: from , to red fruits and vegetable juices, to the powder of finely crushed . As nouns the difference between blush and rouge. is that blush being an act of blushing or blush can be the collective noun for a group of boys while rouge is red or pink makeup to add color to the cheeks; blusher. Blushers, those versatile successors to rouge, help light up a complexion and accent face structure and best features.

▪ Highlighter, used to draw attention to the high collar bones. This product also adds a glow; points of the face such as the cheekbones, comes in liquid, cream, and powder forms. It below the , nose, upper lip, and often contains a substance to provide

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 13 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 shimmer. Alternatively, a lighter-toned tan-look. Bronzer is considered to be more of foundation/concealer can be used [101]. a natural look and can be used for everyday ▪ Bronzer gives skin a bit of color and contours wear. Bronzer enhances the color of the face. the face for a sharper definition or creates a It comes in either matte, semi-matte/satin, or shimmer finishes [102-104].

Figure 11. Eye Makeup [174-176]. Kohl was a widely used traditional cosmetic. It may be a pervasive source of lead poisoning in those areas and among individuals from those areas who have immigrated to developed nations. Despite the fact that cosmetic products undergo rigorous testing to ensure they are safe for human use; some users report mild discomfort following their application. The cutaneous changes, such as allergic , are well reported, but the ocular changes associated with eye cosmetic use are less so. Some pigmented cosmetic products may accumulate within the lacrimal system and conjunctivae over many years of use, but immediate reports of eye discomfort after application are most common. Changes to the tear film and its stability may occur shortly after application, and wearers can also be affected by lens spoliation from cosmetic products. Additionally, creams used in the prevention of skin aging are often applied around the eyes, and retinoids present in these formulations can have negative effects on meibomian gland function and may be a contributing factor to dry eye disease.

▪ Mascara is used to darken, lengthen, have components to help lashes appear thicken, or draw attention to the eyelashes. It longer and thicker [105-107]. is available in various colors. Some ▪ Eye shadow is a pigmented powder/cream or mascaras include glitter flecks. There are substance used to accentuate the eye area, many formulas, including waterproof traditionally on, above, and under the versions for those prone to allergies or eyelids. Many colors may be used at once sudden tears. It is often used after an and blended together to create different curler and mascara primer. Many mascaras AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 14 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 effects using a blending brush. This is Eyelashes can be purchased in several drug conventionally applied with a range of or beauty supply stores and can be applied eyeshadow brushes, though it isn't with eyelash glue. These eyelashes are not uncommon for alternative methods of permanent and can be taken off easily by application to be used such as fingers. gently taking them off with fingers [108,109]. However, it is important to have clean fingers ▪ Contouring is designed to give shape to an because oils from skin can result in pimples area of the face. The aim is to enhance the [108,109]. natural shading on the face to give the ▪ Eye liner is used to enhance and elongate illusion of a more defined facial structure the apparent size or depth of the eye. For which can be altered to preference. Brighter example, white eyeliner on the waterline and skin colored makeup products are used to inner corners of the eye makes the eyes look 'highlight' areas which are wanted to draw bigger and more awake. It can come in the attention to or to be caught in the light, form of a pencil, a gel, or a liquid and can be whereas darker shades are used to create a found in almost any color. Conversely, black shadow. These light and dark tones are eyeliner makes eyes look smaller, brightens blended on the skin to create the illusion of a up the face and draws attention to the eyes more definite face shape. It can be achieved [108,109]. using a "contour palette" - which can be ▪ Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels, and either cream or powder [102], [112]. powders are used to color, fill in, and define ▪ or foaming washes are used to the brows. Popular in recent years, the remove excess dirt, oil, and makeup left on "Instagram look" is creating fuller eyebrows the skin. Different cleansing products are by filling it, sharper angles, and adding gel to aimed at various types of skin, such as set it [110]. sulfate-free cleansers and spin brushes. ▪ Nail polish is used to color the fingernails and Cleansing oil or oil cleanser is an oil-based toenails. Transparent, colorless versions that can contain, but not necessarily, may strengthen nails or be used as a top or an emulsifier to allow for the oils to gently base coat to protect the nail or polish. This emulsify on the skin. Cleansing Oils allowing can be found in gloss, matte, and powder to provide essential fatty acids to the skin [110]. [113,114]. ▪ Setting spray is used as the last step in the ▪ Toners are used after cleansing the skin to process of applying makeup. It keeps applied freshen it up, boost the appearance of one's makeup intact for long periods. An addition to complexion, and remove any traces of setting spray is setting powder, which may be cleanser, mask, or makeup, as well to help either pigmented or translucent. Both of restore the skin's natural pH. They are these products claim to keep makeup from usually applied to a pad and wiped absorbing into the skin or melting off [111]. over the skin, but can be sprayed onto the skin from a spray bottle. Toners typically ▪ False eyelashes are used when exaggerated contain alcohol, water, and herbal extracts or eyelashes are desired. Their basic design other chemicals depending on skin type usually consists of human hair, mink hair, or whether oily, dry, or combination. Toners synthetic materials attached to a thin cloth- containing alcohol are quite astringent, and like band, which is applied with glue to the usually targeted at oily [108], [115]. lash line. Designs vary in length and color. Rhinestones, gems, and even feathers and ▪ Facial masks are treatments applied to the lace occur on some false eyelash designs. skin and then removed. Typically, they are applied to a dry, cleansed face, avoiding the AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 15 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 eyes and lips. Clay-based masks use kaolin sensitive skin, as they tend to be very drying. clay or fuller's earth to transport essential oils Sheet masks are a relatively new product and chemicals to the skin, and are typically that are becoming extremely popular in Asia. left on until completely dry. As the clay dries, Sheet masks consist of a thin cotton or fiber it absorbs excess oil and dirt from the surface sheet with holes cut out for the eyes and lips of the skin and may help to clear blocked and cut to fit the contours of the face, onto pores or draw comedones to the surface. which serums and skin treatments are Because of its drying actions, clay-based brushed in a thin layer; the sheets may be masks should only be used on oily skins. soaked in the treatment. Masks are available Peel masks are typically gel-like in to suit almost all skin types and skin consistency, and contain acids or exfoliating complaints. Sheet masks are quicker, less agents to help exfoliate the skin, along with messy, and require no specialized other ingredients to hydrate, discourage knowledge or equipment for their use wrinkles, or treat uneven skin tone. They are compared to other types of face masks, but left on to dry and then gently peeled off. They they may be difficult to find and purchase should be avoided by people with dry or outside Asia [116-118].

Figure 12. Facial Treatment [177-180]. Facial masks are the most prevalent cosmetic products utilized for skin rejuvenation. Facial masks are divided into four groups: (a) sheet masks; (b) peel- off masks; (c) rinse-off masks; and (d) hydrogels. Each of these has some advantages for specific skin types based on the ingredients used. Peel-off facial masks are known for their unique characteristics inherent to the use of film-forming polymers that, after complete drying, create a very cohesive layer allowing for the manual removal of the product without leaving any residue. Most clay-based products on the market consist only of dried clay powder that needs to be moistened prior to use. After facial application, the product dries naturally, forming a sandy-cracked material due to the low cohesion between the dried particles. The most interesting effects of in topical use are anti-inflammatory, , , and regenerative. It has been

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 16 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 demonstrated that the association of green clay and aloe vera exerts a beneficial synergistic effect when it comes to developing a facial mask as a regenerative aid.

▪ Exfoliants are products that help slough off a different kind of compared with dry, dead skin cells to improve the skin's the rest of the face. The skin around the eyes appearance. This is achieved either by using is extremely thin and sensitive, and is often mild acids or other chemicals to loosen old the first area to show signs of aging. Eye skin cells, or abrasive substances to creams are typically very light lotions or gels, physically scrub them off. Exfoliation can and are usually very gentle; some may even out patches of rough skin, improve contain ingredients such as or circulation to the skin, clear blocked pores to to reduce puffiness and dark discourage acne and improve the circles under the eyes. Eye creams or gels appearance and healing of scars. Chemical should be applied over the entire eye area exfoliants may include citric acid (from citrus with a finger, using a patting motion. Finding fruits), acetic acid (from vinegar), malic acid a moisturizer with SPF is beneficial to (from fruit), , lactic acid, or prevent aging and wrinkles [116], [120]. salicylic acid. They may be or gels, ▪ composed of long chain fatty acid and may or may not contain an abrasive to alkali salts with a pH of between 9 and 10. remove old skin cells afterwards. Abrasive Use of soap with high pH causes an increase exfoliants include gels, creams or lotions, as in skin pH, which in turn causes an increase well as physical objects. Loofahs, microfiber in dehydrative effect, irritability and alteration cloths, natural sponges, or brushes may be in bacterial flora. The majority of soaps and used to exfoliate skin, simply by rubbing them available in the market do not over the face in a circular motion. Gels, disclose their pH. Glycerin bars/transparent creams, or lotions may contain an acid to bars: used rampantly in our country in winter. encourage dead skin cells to loosen, and an They contain –glycerin to counter abrasive such as , sea salt, the drying effects of soap. Super-fatted sugar, ground nut shells, rice bran, or ground soaps: contain greater amount of lipids such apricot kernels to scrub the dead cells off the as triglycerides, lanolin, paraffin, , skin. Salt and sugar scrubs tend to be the or mineral oils which provide a protective film harshest, while scrubs containing beads or on the skin. soaps/antibacterial rice bran are typically very gentle [116], [119]. soaps: contain antibacterial agents such as ▪ Moisturizers are creams or lotions that triclosan, triclocarban, or carbanile to inhibit hydrate the skin and help it to retain moisture; the growth of bacteria and thereby odor they may contain essential oils, herbal [80,81]. extracts, or chemicals to assist with oil ▪ Shampoos are used primarily to clean the control or reducing irritation. Night creams scalp of dirt and other environmental are typically more hydrating than day pollutants, sebum, sweat, desquamated creams, but may be too thick or heavy to corneocytes (scales), and other greasy wear during the day, hence their name. residues including previously applied hair Tinted moisturizers contain a small amount of care products such as oils, lotions and foundation, which can provide light coverage sprays. It is easy to formulate a shampoo for minor blemishes or to even out skin tones. which will remove all of the sebum and dirt They are usually applied with the fingertips or from the hair and scalp, but this will leave the a to the entire face, avoiding the hair, frizzy, dry, unmanageable and lips and area around the eyes. Eyes require unattractive. Shampoo now is also supposed AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 17 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 to have a secondary function which serves to ingredients in the correct proportion in the condition and beautify hair and to soothe the shampoo preparation. The modern advances irritated scalp skin in conditions like in chemistry and technology have made it seborrheic dermatitis. The challenge is to possible to replace the soap bases with remove just enough sebum to allow the hair complex formulation which contain cleansing to appear clean and leave behind enough agents, conditioning agents along with conditioning agents to leave the hair soft, functional additives, preservative, aesthetic shiny and manageable. This balancing act additives and sometimes even medically between good cleaning and beautifying the active ingredients [121-125]. hair is an art achieved by mixing various

Figure 13. Woman with long beautiful hair [187,188]. The main purpose of shampoo is to remove dirt and oil from the surface of the hair fibers and the scalp, while the main purpose of conditioner is to ensure that the hair is smooth for combing. Shampoos typically contain a primary and a secondary for thorough cleaning, a viscosity builder, a solvent, conditioning agents, pH adjuster and other non-essential components such as fragrance and color for commercial appeal. Conditioners usually contain silicone polymers to increase shine and soften hair, cationic polymers such as quaternary nitrogen compounds to reduce static electricity, bridging agents to increase absorption, viscosity builder, pH adjuster and components for commercial appeal.

▪ Conditioners are used to decrease friction, amino acids and cationic molecules. The detangle the hair, minimize and improve most active and used conditioner agent is a combability. Conditioners act by neutralizing silicone. There are different types of the electrical negative charge of the hair fiber with different deposition, adherence and by adding positive charges and by lubricating wash out capacity which will lead to different the cuticle that reduces fiber hydrophilicity. performances of the conditioner. The ideal They contain anti-static and lubricating conditioner is capable of restore the substances that are divided into 5 main hydrophobicity of the fiber and neutralize the groups: Polymers, oils, waxes, hydrolyzed static electricity. Depending on the capacity

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 18 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 of entering the fiber, the conditioner may and antiperspirants. These reach the cuticle surface or the inner part of products are sold in solid crystal form. The the cortex [122], [125]. consumer is instructed to wet the crystal and ▪ Deodorant is one of the most commonly used apply the product to the underarm area to cosmetic products, with millions of prevent odor. Although no research has been consumers applying these products to their published evaluating the mechanism of axilla every day. Deodorants are used to action of these products, the company that mask odor; whereas, antiperspirants are markets them, Crystal Body Deodorant used to reduce the amount of sweat (French Transit, Ltd., Burlingame, produced. These two activities are often California), claims that the mineral salts combined into single products. While create an environment in which bacteria deodorants are considered cosmetic cannot survive [126,127]. products because they do not change the ▪ Contouring is intended to offer shape to a function of the skin, antiperspirants are zone of the face. The point is to upgrade the classified as drugs and are therefore subject normal shading on the face to give the to rules and regulations set forth by the FDA. fantasy of a more characterized facial The active ingredient in antiperspirants is structure which can be adjusted to usually aluminum based, which reduces inclination. More brilliant skin colored sweat by causing obstruction of the eccrine makeup items are utilized to '' regions glands. Deodorants work by two different which are needed to attract thoughtfulness mechanisms—antimicrobial agents regarding or to be gotten in the light, while decrease the number of bacteria that darker shades are utilized to make a shadow. produce volatile odoriferous substances and These light and dark tones are mixed on the fragrances cover any odors that are skin to make the deception of a more produced. Recently, naturally occurring unequivocal face shape. It very well may be zeolite minerals, in the form of potassium accomplished utilizing a "shape palette" - alum or ammonium alum crystals, have been which can be either cream or powder [102], marketed as all-natural alternatives to [112].

Figure 14. Contouring [182]. Contouring is the newest makeup craze that people just can’t get enough of! This trend, made famous by none other than the Kardashian sisters, was created to make your face appear slimmer and more sculpted. The basic premise of it is to highlight the areas of face that someone would like to bring out, while shading in the parts she wants to make thinner.

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 19 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 Products classified as therapeutics strongly based on evidence, and is ▪ Antiperspirants help to reduce the production dependent on the concentration (minimum of of sweat. Aluminum salts – the active 1000 ppm F) and frequency of fluoride ingredient found in antiperspirants – dissolve use (2'/day or higher). The risk of into the moisture on the skin’s surface. This dental fluorosis due to toothpaste ingestion forms a gel, which temporarily sits on top of by children has been overestimated, since the sweat gland, reducing the amount of there is no evidence that: 1) fluoride sweat released. Antiperspirants that contain toothpaste use should be postponed until the alcohol also help the active ingredient to dry age of 3-4 or older, 2) low-fluoride toothpaste faster and create a pleasant, cool feeling. An avoids fluorosis and 3) fluorosis has a antiperspirant can also be a deodorant, detrimental effect on the quality of life of because it can help to control sweat and individuals exposed to fluoridated water and contain a fragrance at the same time. But toothpaste. Among other therapeutic deodorants only mask body odor; they don’t substances used in , there is help to prevent sweating [121], [128, 129]. evidence that triclosan/copolymer reduce dental biofilm, gingivitis, periodontitis, ▪ Anti-dandruff shampoo- Dandruff (pityriasis calculus and halitosis, and that toothpastes capitis) is a chronic scalp condition containing stannous fluoride reduce biofilm characterized by scaling and sometimes and gingivitis [133-136]. itching and redness. Shampoos containing agents are used to control the ▪ A may be defined as a nonsterile scaling condition. Regular use of anti-fungal aqueous solution used mostly for its shampoos represents a proven therapeutic deodorant, refreshing, or antiseptic effect. strategy to improve the most common or rinses, when used as an symptoms of flakes and . The therapeutic adjunct to regular oral hygiene methods such efficacy of a product based on a complex as flossing. The first reference to mouth rinse delivery vehicle such as a shampoo must be as a formal practice is credited to Chinese considered from a full-product perspective medicine, about 2700 B.C.E., to treat the rather than just the active system as the non- diseases of the gums. Mouthwashes exert active components of the composition will adverse effects on teeth, gums and mucous often play a significant role in the overall membrane of oral cavity and their extensive product pharmacology and resultant efficacy use is being criticized. study revealed that [130-132]. damage to DNA increases many folds when different mouthwashes are combined. Household products Essential oils of six plants (black ▪ Toothpaste is a paste or gel to be used with pepper, clove, black seasam, cinamon, a toothbrush to maintain and improve oral carom seeds and ) were evaluated for and aesthetics. Since their possessing anti-mutagenic property. These introduction several thousand years ago, essential oils were found effectively toothpaste formulations have evolved protective against the DNA damaging effect considerably - from suspensions of crushed of mouthwashes but could not inhibit it egg shells or ashes to complex formulations completely. Black pepper, clove, black with often more than 20 ingredients. Fluoride seasam, cinamon, and cumin were stronger is the most important therapeutic substance protective as compared to carom seeds [79], used in toothpastes, adding to the effect of [137-140]. mechanical toothbrushing on dental caries ▪ Detergents- Performing household-cleaning control. The use of fluoride toothpaste to chores involves the use of chemical reduce caries in children and adults is AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 20 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 detergents; these are commonly believed to irritation from external factors, such as cold provide cleaner and safer households. weather and wind, as well as harsh topical Occupational health studies have associated skin-care products. Therefore, it is critical health risks with detergents, including that infant cleansers and moisturizers be well respiratory and skin problems. Women are tolerated and not disrupt the stratum the major users of household detergents, as corneum. Infant skin is also exposed to other they are in general the primary homemakers. factors, such as saliva, nasal secretions, Detergent-handling strategies including urine, feces (including fecal enzymes), and storage, use, and precautionary measures dirt, which can be irritants and result in affect women's exposure to chemical disruption of the skin barrier. Lower-income detergents and thus affect their health. households reported a higher frequency of Studies investigating the behavioral product use and were less likely to purchase component of chemical exposure to fragrance-free products or ones that were detergents at the domestic level are scarce. made for sensitive skin. As a result of normal The different classes of raw materials are daily exposure to these external factors, , builders, bleaching agents, proper skin cleansing and protection of the enzymes, and minors which remove dirt, infant skin barrier are essential to the stain, and soil from surfaces or textiles gave maintenance of skin-barrier function. Recent them pleasant feel and odor. The physico- studies suggest that some phthalates can chemical properties of surfactants make alter human male reproductive development, them suitable for laundry purposes. Laundry association was strongest in young infants, detergent has traditionally been a powdered who may be more vulnerable to or granular solid, but the use of liquid laundry developmental and reproductive toxicity of detergents has gradually increased over the phthalates given their immature metabolic years, and these days use of liquid detergent system capability and increased dosage per equals or even exceeds use of solid unit body surface area. There was some detergent. This review paper describes the evidence to suggest that daily use of full- history, composition, types, mechanism, body emollient therapy may help to reduce consumption, environmental effects and the risk of atopic eczema in high risk babies consumption of laundry detergents. Frequent with a genetic predisposition to eczema; exposure to antimicrobial household however, the use of olive oil or products has been hypothesized to lead to for baby dry skin may adversely affect skin allergic diseases in children [141-145]. barrier function [146-152]. ▪ Baby Products- Although the U.S. pediatric ▪ Toiletries- Greater emphasis on cleanliness skin care market is a $1.7 billion industry, has led to widening use of disinfectants and little is known regarding the usage pattern of other cleaning agents in the home. Real skin care products in very young children. picture is, an estimated 2.3 billion people The natural baby skin-care products were lacked access to improved sanitation well tolerated by infants and toddlers when facilities, worldwide found in a 2017 study. used alone or as part of a skin-care regimen. Inadequate access to sanitation and hygiene Immediately after birth, the skin barrier of facilities is known to be a leading cause of healthy, full-term neonates is competent, yet morbidity and mortality, particularly in low- skin-barrier function continues to develop income countries. In fact, approximately 10% through at least the first year of life. This of the global burden of disease is thought to developing state of infant skin results in infant be attributed to inadequate Water, skin being susceptible to dryness and Sanitation, And Hygiene (WASH), which is

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 21 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 largely driven by increased exposure to reproductive system. Found in hundreds of human pathogens transmitted via the fecal- personal care products and other oral route. An undesirable effect (UE) of a merchandise, from shower curtains to wood cosmetic product is a harmful reaction finishes. Most Americans tested by the attributable to its normal or reasonably Centers for Disease Control and Prevention foreseeable use. However, the knowledge of in the National Health and Nutrition UEs, at the population level, is limited by the Examination Survey during 2003 to 2004 absence of formal and reliable showed the metabolites of several phthalates cosmetovigilance systems, which in their urine. Phthalates are considered toxic nevertheless are characterized by to normal development and the reproductive underreporting. Triclosan is a widely used system, and can potentially cause endocrine antimicrobial pesticide; in fact it's so widely disruption and cancer. Much of the market is used that there is concern that triclosan could dominated by big brand owners. The type of be contributing to making bacteria resistant products in the household sectors often to . Triclosan not only irritates the directs the packaging material choice with skin; it may also promote cancer and disrupt some more aggressive bleach-based the endocrine system. Toluene is a toxic products having to use HDPE. Plastic waste chemical commonly found in nail products is also generated as a non-biodegradable and hair dyes. It is also listed on labels as waste, which can cause environmental benzene, toluol, phenylmethane, or pollution from unsanitary disposal and toxic methylbenzene. Toluene can affect the leachates and gases, especially carbon respiratory and central nervous systems, monoxide and black smoke produced from damage the liver and kidneys, and cause open burning [153-165]. birth defects and spontaneous abortion. Most Safety issues of cosmetics cosmetics and toiletries products contain Cosmetic products are frequently applied to the scents, which are typically labelled as skin by a large number of people, but some 'fragrances,' and do not include the list of contain compounds that are potentially toxic, if chemicals they are comprised of. Fragrances absorption through the skin is sufficient. can contribute to air pollution and health Makeup, shampoo, skin lotion, nail polish, and issues such as hormone disruption, asthma, other personal care products contain chemical allergies, and migraines. are ingredients that lack safety data. Moreover, oestrogen-mimicking preservatives found in some of these chemicals have been linked in many cosmetics and other body-care animal studies to male genital birth defects, products. A study by the Centers for Disease decreased sperm counts, and altered pregnancy Control and Prevention showed that most of outcomes. There is no definitive evidence for the the participants tested for exposure same effects in humans, but widespread came up positive. Studies have shown a exposure, primarily to phthalates, has been potential link between paraben exposure and shown to occur. Phthalates, as key components the proliferation of breast cancer cells. The in , appear in many consumer products. European Union deemed butylated The main phthalates in cosmetics and personal hydroxyanisole (BHA) unsafe for use in care products are dibutyl phthalate in nail polish, fragrance, but BHA can still be found in diethyl phthalate in perfumes and lotions, and cosmetics and other personal care products dimethyl phthalate in . Often, their in the . The National Toxicology presence is not noted on labels [9]. For serious Program considers BHA a carcinogen, and health problems to arise, exposure to these animal studies have indicated it damages the rapidly-clearing compounds must occur on a

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 22 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 daily basis. Two such classes of compounds are (NDELA), an impurity in many cosmetic the phthalate plasticizers and parabens, both of products, has been evaluated in diffusion cells which are used in many personal care products, using excised [39]. The Cosmetic some , and even and food Ingredient Review (CIR) program was preservation. The phthalates are commonly established in 1976 by the Cosmetics, Toiletry, found in foods and household dust. Even though and Fragrance Association, with the support of they have relatively short half-lives in humans, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the phthalates have been associated with a number Consumer Federation of America (CFA). CIR of serious health problems, including infertility, performs independent, expert reviews to testicular dysgenesis, obesity, asthma, and determine if ingredients used in cosmetics are allergies, as well as leiomyomas and breast safe. CIR staff prepares summaries of available cancer. Parabens, which can be dermally data and the CIR Expert Panel reviews the data absorbed, are present in many cosmetic in open, public meetings. If more data are products, including antiperspirants. Their needed, requests are made. Unpublished estrogenicity and tissue presence are a cause studies may be provided, but become public and for concern regarding breast cancer. available for review once summarized in CIR Fortunately, these compounds are relatively safety assessments. Tentative conclusions are easy to avoid and such steps can result in supported with a rationale and public comment dramatic reductions of urinary levels of these is sought. Taking any input into consideration, a compounds [23]. An extensive number of final safety assessment monograph is issued. cosmetic products are applied topically on and These monographs are submitted for publication around the human breast on a daily basis, often in the peer-reviewed International Journal of multiple times a day, including not only underarm Toxicology. Hair dyes represent an important anti-perspirant/deodorant products but also product category reviewed by CIR. In body lotions, body sprays, moisturizing creams, considering hair dyes, the CIR Expert Panel breast firming/enhancing creams and sun care reviews experimental and clinical data specific to products. These products are not rinsed off but the particular chemical structure of each hair dye left on the skin, allowing for continuous dermal and reviews epidemiologic studies that address exposure, absorption and deposition into hair dye use that are less specific. CIR Expert underlying tissues, which may be further Panel concluded that the available increased by abrasions in the skin created by epidemiologic studies are insufficient to . Clinical studies dating back decades conclude there is a causal relationship between report a disproportionately high number of hair dye use and cancer and other end points. It female breast cancers originating in the upper is inevitable that new information will become outer quadrant of the breast, and although this is available concerning ingredients for which safety attributed to a greater amount of epithelial tissue assessments were completed in the early days in that region, it is also the area to which of the program. To consider new data, the CIR underarm cosmetic products are applied. Early Expert Panel has instituted a re-review program. studies reported 31% of cancers in the upper Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), , and outer quadrant, but later studies in the 1990s parabens are discussed as examples. Safety report up to 61%. On the basis that assessments currently underway are listed, antiperspirant formulations are designed to along with high-priority ingredients from which block underarm sweat ducts and breast cysts new work will be chosen. Although supported by arise from blocked breast ducts in the adjacent the cosmetics industry, the CIR program has region of the body [29]. The percutaneous remained independent in its decision making, absorption of N-nitrosodiethanolamine based on its open, public process; the integrity

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 23 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 of the expert panel members; the participation of As true now as when Paracelsus said it in the the FDA and the CFA; and the cooperation of the 16th century, "It is the dose that makes the cosmetics industry [10]. Over the years, some poison." activist groups have targeted cosmetics as e. Chemicals such as phthalates, parabens, possible human health threats, claiming that bisphenol A (BPA) and triclosan (TCS), used cosmetic ingredients are not adequately tested in a wide variety of consumer products, are for safety and may pose risks to consumers. The suspected endocrine disrupters although groups allege that industry practices related to their level of toxicity is thought to be low. safety testing are flawed, that there is little Combined exposure may occur through government oversight, and that cosmetics ingestion, and dermal exposure, contain cancer-causing chemicals and other and their toxic as well as combined effects toxicants. A critical review of the scientific data are poorly understood. related to these claims indicates: f. Animal and human physiology differ in crucial a. Industry has the primary responsibility to ways, further invalidating simplistic attempts ensure that all ingredients, preservatives, to extrapolate rodent testing to human health and co-formulants used in products are safe risks. for their intended uses. The should be encouraged b. The US FDA has regulatory oversight of the to publish more of its toxicity studies and cosmetic industry. Its authority includes the safety evaluations, which would aid in banning or restriction of ingredients for safety dispelling the uncertainty that some reasons. consumers have about cosmetic safety [21, c. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), an 22]. Since the FDA does not specify independent, scientific review board, acceptable levels, the cosmetic industry critically evaluates chemical ingredients used generally follows the guidelines of the in cosmetics and publishes the results of its Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) findings in the peer-reviewed literature. (formerly the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and d. Health-related allegations about cosmetic Fragrance Association (CTFA)) regarding ingredients are generally based on the the level of microbial contamination and the results of high-dose laboratory testing in absence of pathogens [52]. animals and have little relevance for humans.

Exhibit 2. FDA in Action [44-51] ▪ Under a structure originally established in 1938 that places regulation of cosmetics under the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), cosmetics manufacturers in the United States are not required to register their products or forward consumer complaints to the FDA, leading to broad under- reporting of adverse events. The FDA has limited authority to mandate product recalls. ▪ In July 2018, Johnson & Johnson was ordered to pay a $4.96 billion settlement to 22 women who found asbestos in talc in baby powder caused their ovarian cancer. ▪ Guthy-Renker, the manufacturer of WEN hair products, settled a class-action lawsuit for $26 million after consumers said it caused rashes and hair loss. ▪ After decades of use in soaps, the FDA finally banned triclosan from soap in 2016 over concerns about its long-term safety and contribution to -resistant bacteria. Unfortunately, it is still used in many products like toothpaste, mascara, and foundation.

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 24 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 Skin and other sensitivity issues of individuals [13]. In Europe, 1% of the population cosmetics is estimated to be allergic to fragrances and 2- Human skin is the front line of defenses against 3% to ; 10% of external infectious or toxic substances, and is an outpatients patch-tested for cosmetics environmental habitat that various were found to be positive. Allergenic ingredients microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, of cosmetics can be fragrances, hair dye, yeasts, and viruses, can colonize. Human skin is preservatives, , emollients, a complex ecosystem with various surfactants, UV absorbers, or microenvironmental conditions, and thus, skin used in nail cosmetics. Among standard allergen microbial communities are very diverse and series, eight substances are related to complex. Skin structures such as hair follicles, cosmetics; in Japan in 2003, p- sebaceous glands, eccrine and apocrine sweat phenylenediamine (hair dyes) induced allergic glands as well as subepidermal skin reactions with the highest rate of 7.9% in compartments, provide distinct biological niches outpatients’ patch-tested. Cosmetic allergy that are colonized by their own unique skin symptoms tend to be mild except those caused microbiota. The current understanding is that by hair dye [42]. most of these skin microbes are harmless or Natural Products for cosmetic uses commensal organisms that play essential roles Some natural products have been shown to in inhibiting colonization by pathogenic microbes benefit the skin, especially for the restoration of or modulating innate and adaptive immune skin barrier. Dead Sea mud and water, systems [11]. Skin sensitivity is not the only balneotherapeutic water preparations, deep sea issues with cosmetics. workers sponges, milk, and pearl, for examples, have and consumers suffered such injuries as eye been used in ancient to modern formulations for and nervous system disorders, respiratory tract topical application to provide healthy ageless problems, chest pain, vomiting and rash as a skin. Results were not always well documented, result of using the straightener but it remains on but the effects have been observed and the market because the FDA is not authorized to triggered many investigations. The Dead Sea, recall cosmetics [12]. Sensitive skin is less the deepest and most saline lake on earth, has tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of been known from biblical times for its healing cosmetics and toiletries. It is self-diagnosed and properties. The aim of this systematic review typically unaccompanied by any obvious was to present critically the level of evidence for physical signs of irritation. With the change in the claims of therapeutic effects of Dead Sea lifestyle and also with increased opportunity to treatments in several rheumatologic diseases use many new brands of cosmetics and and as well as to review these toiletries, there has been an increase in females treatments' safety [14]. Among many complaining of unique sensation in their facial components within these materials, calcium is skin. Sensitive skin presents as smarting, one notable ingredient in common. Plants and burning, stinging, itching, and/or tight sensation natural products with skin-whitening effects are in their facial skin. The condition is found in more gaining interest among consumers and than 50% of women and 40% of men, creating a researchers because they are perceived to be sizable demand for products designed to milder, safer, and healthier than synthetic minimize skin sensitivity. Good numbers of alternatives [15]. Biological activities of plants invasive and non-invasive tests are designed to and natural extracts are therefore available for evaluate and predict the sensitive skin. cosmetic formulators and dermatologists Management includes guidelines for selecting interested in naturally derived ingredients for suitable cosmetics and toiletries in sensitive skin skin hyperpigmentation treatment and in

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 25 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 accordance with the consumers' preferences the infant skin barrier are essential to the and expectations upon natural cosmetic maintenance of skin-barrier function [18]. products. Photoaging is a leading concern for Nutraceuticals represent a promising strategy patients and many of these patients will express for preventing, delaying, or minimizing a desire to utilize natural ingredients as premature ageing of the skin and also to treatment. Mushrooms, feverfew, green tea, alleviate certain skin disorders. Among them, licorice, olive oil, soy, and coffee berry have bioactive peptides and oligosaccharides, plant been shown to have antioxidant properties and polyphenols, carotenoids, vitamins and may play a role in the treatment and prevention polyunsaturated fatty acids are the most widely of photoaging [16]. Botanical compounds for used ingredients. Supplementation with these which dermatologic and cosmetic applications products has shown evidence of having an effect have emerged include: olive oil, chamomile, on the signs of ageing and protection against UV colloidal oatmeal, oat kernel extract, feverfew, radiation ageing in several human trials [19]. acai berry, coffee berry, , green tea, Traditional formulation techniques have focused pomegranate, licorice, paper mulberry, arbutin, on creating the best performing products at the and soy. Many of these botanical sources offer lowest cost. Little regard has been given to the biologically active components that require source of the starting raw materials. However, further in vitro and in vivo investigation regarding issues of sustainability, consumer desires and over-the-counter products based on these regulatory pressures have led to the need for the ingredients [17]. The natural baby skin-care development of cosmetics using primarily plant- products were well tolerated by infants and based, renewable resourced raw materials. This toddlers when used alone or as part of a skin- presents a special challenge to formulators as care regimen. Although traditional skin- the starting materials often do not work as well cleansing, lotion, and shampoo products still as traditional synthetic ingredients. Since the comprise a large share of the personal care cosmetics and personal care industry is not market, increasing numbers of consumers and regulated, various organizations have offered health care professionals have begun conflicting positions on standardized guidelines scrutinizing products and product labels, which for natural and organic claims. To improve has created a sizeable market for products that communication on this topic, it will therefore contain natural ingredients. Immediately after become important to dissociate claims regarding birth, the skin barrier of healthy, full-term the naturalness of ingredients from the neonates is competent, yet skin-barrier function perception of safety. Safety is inherent in the continues to develop through at least the first raw materials used for formulating, regardless of year of life. This developing state of infant skin their origin and in the synergies among results in infant skin being susceptible to dryness ingredients—for more than 50 years, the and irritation from external factors, such as cold industry has worked hard to monitor the safety weather and wind, as well as harsh topical skin- of products on the market, supported by the US care products. Therefore, it is critical that infant Food and Drug Administration (FDA). And cleansers and moisturizers be well tolerated and recently, more governmental agencies such as not disrupt the stratum corneum. Infant skin is the FDA, the US Department of Agriculture also exposed to other factors, such as saliva, (USDA) and the Council of Europe’s Committee nasal secretions, urine, feces (including fecal of Experts on Cosmetic Products have taken a enzymes), and dirt, which can be irritants and proactive role in sorting out the meanings of result in disruption of the skin barrier. As a result natural and organic for the cosmetics and of normal daily exposure to these external personal care industry. Such organizations act factors, proper skin cleansing and protection of as a clearer scientific focal point in deciding what

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 26 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 ingredients are safe for use in cosmetic estimated approximately 15% of the world products. In addition, several organizations population invest in agents with currently are monitoring the safety of cosmetics Asia is being dominated. Global industry and personal care ingredients, such as the analysts (GIA) have predicted that the universal Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel [53]. market for skin lighteners will reach $23 billion Targeted cosmetics by 2020, driven by new markets in Asia, particularly India, Japan and China. According to Skin compartments traditionally targeted by the SIRONA biochem (a biotechnology cosmetic actives - epidermis and - are company, Vancouver, British Columbia) report, anchored and nourished by the underlying approximately $13 billion spent on skin care hypodermis, which therefore should be a key products and cosmetics in Asia Pacific’s. In India target for skin-rejuvenating formulations. alone, it is estimated that $432 million was spent However, given the difficulty to reach even the in 2010 on skin lightening creams and skin care superficial layers of the skin, and to its agents. A recent survey showed that 80% of 'unglamorous' fatty composition, the Indian men use fairness creams and the number regenerative potential of hypodermis remains of consumer’s are growing 18% annually. The largely untapped. Nutraceutical grade cosmetics molecular mechanism of these skin lightening have potential to induce signal transduction agents is to reduce the , which is the pathways in facial hypodermis, resulting in anti- main source of skin color [25,26]. The number of aging effects throughout all skin compartments, patients that visit dermatologists with pigmentary including dermal and epidermal layers [20]. Skin disorders is significant. Patients are often whitening products are commercially available overwhelmed with numerous over-the-counter for cosmetic purposes in order to obtain a lighter skin lightening agents, many without clinical skin appearance. They are also utilized for evidence of efficacy. Botanical and natural clinical treatment of pigmentary disorders such ingredients have become popular as as melasma or post-inflammatory depigmenting products and provide an hyperpigmentation. Whitening agents act at alternative to the current gold standard, various levels of melanin production in the skin. . Despite the need for more long- Many of them are known as competitive term, well-designed, randomized, controlled inhibitors of tyrosinase, the key enzyme in studies, several botanical and natural melanogenesis. Others inhibit the maturation of ingredients do show initial promise in treating this enzyme or the transport of pigment granules disorders of hyperpigmentation based on the (melanosomes) from melanocytes to results of clinical trials. These ingredients are surrounding keratinocytes. In the Western AA, soy, lignin peroxidase, ascorbic acid culture it is still considered desirable to obtain a iontophoresis, arbutin, ellagic acid, licorice (bronze) tan. Despite warnings about the extracts, niacinamide, and mulberry. In addition consequences of excessive sun or UV to showing promise in treating exposure, the artificial tanning business has hyperpigmentation, these agents also provide expanded strongly in the last decades. In the greater insight into the pathogenesis of Eastern world, however, a centuries long dyschromia, thus enhancing our understanding tradition exists whereby a light complexion is of the many complexities of pigment disorders regarded as equivalent to youth and beauty. [27]. Cellulite is a serious cosmetic concern for Development of preparations for bleaching most of the 90% of women affected by it. The hyperpigmented lesions or to safely achieve phenomenon is most commonly seen on hips, overall whitening is one of the challenges for buttocks, and thighs but can also touch other cosmetic industry. In recent years, the interest in areas, including the abdomen. Up to 90% of skin whitening has grown tremendously [24]. It is

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 27 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 woman, over 20 years of age, are affected at requirement of the individual [32]. In the 2000s, various degrees, against only 2% of men. nail polish manufacturers started promoting “3- Cellulite is seen as a normal condition by the Free” products, phasing out three widely medical community, but it is a serious cosmetic publicized toxic chemicals: toluene, concern for most women affected by it. It is a formaldehyde, and dibutyl phthalate (DnBP). complex phenomenon that requires a complex However, DnBP was sometimes replaced by approach, and it is likely that no single ingredient another endocrine-disrupting plasticizer, is solely responsible for the benefits reported. triphenyl phosphate (TPHP). Many new “n-Free” Some disorders have also been associated with labels have since appeared, without any cellulite, such as venous insufficiency, kidney standardization on which n chemicals are problems, metabolic perturbations, and excluded. This study aimed to compare gastrointestinal alterations [28]. Many cosmetic measured plasticizer content against nail polish products are available in spray form. Even labels. The limited regulation of ingredients in though the principal targets of these products nail polish may leave nail polish users and nail are the skin and hair, spraying to the salon workers vulnerable. Consumers that use partitioning of the product between the target nail polish mostly consist of women, often of and the surrounding air [30]. child-bearing age, and even children. Market chlorohydrate and aluminium zirkonium research suggests that consumers apply nail tetrachlorohydrate glycine complex are the most polish two to six times per month on average, or frequently used active ingredients in commercial as much as once per day [33]. Lipsticks may not antitranspirants today. Aluminium chloride and only increase the contrast between lips and propantheline bromide, the anticholinergic facial skin but may also influence perceived substance, are important alternatives although lightness of skin. Therefore, it would be both less common. Active ingredients of deodorants scientifically interesting and beneficial for are mainly perfuming or practical purposes to test the effect of lip color bactericidal/bacteriostatic substances, such as on facial skin’s perceived lightness. Kobayashi triclosan. In addition, there are substances et. al., 2017 reviewed that lip color was which are meant to bind offending smells (e.g. assimilated into facial skin’s perceived color. For zinc ricinoleate) or to influence the skin surface example, they found that orange lip color makes pH (e.g. triethyl citrate) [31]. A shampoo not only facial skin appear yellowish, and reddish lip color provides the cleaning of the scalp skin and hair makes facial skin appear reddish and lighter as its primary function, but in addition also [37]. Acceptable lipstick for the consumers serves to condition and beautify hair and acts as should have a suitable texture and spreadability. an adjunct in the management of various scalp Descriptive sensory profiling is an essential disorders. To achieve this, various ingredients in in this process as it allows an experienced panel the correct proportion are mixed to provide a to assess the qualitative and quantitative shampoo which is suitable for individuals having characteristics of a product [38]. different hair types and hair need. Among the Cosmetics Vehicles ingredients that go into the making of a shampoo Consumers will pay a premium for high- are detergents, conditioners, thickeners, performance skin and hair care products. The sequestering agents, pH adjusters, demand exists, and in return for the high cost, preservatives and specialty additives. Hair consumers expect the product to perform as conditioners are designed to improve hair claimed and to meet aesthetic standards beyond manageability, decrease hair static electricity many products found in the mass market. To be and add luster. They are used in several ways successful in this highly competitive market, depending upon the state of hair and products must function as claimed or consumers

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 28 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 will not repurchase. Effective contemporary can act as good emulsifiers, which is an extra high-end products must be properly formulated advantage in the preparation of green cosmetic in nonirritating vehicles that consumers will products. In this work, a biosurfactant obtained perceive as elegant [40]. Cosmetic products from Lactobacillus paracasei was used as a mean any substance or intended to be stabilizing agent in oil-in-water emulsions placed in contact with the external parts of the containing essential oils and natural antioxidant human body (eg, epidermis, lips) and should not extract [56]. Surface-active polysaccharides pass to the lower parts and penetrate to the skin typically have to be used at relatively high levels [41]. In cosmetics, the term “active ingredient” is to produce small droplets, but the droplets a marketing term for an ingredient that people formed are highly resistant to environmental believe has some effect but is not legally allowed changes. Conversely, surface-active proteins to. For example, some marketers say Vitamin C are typically utilized at low levels, but the is an active ingredient for skin lightening. While droplets formed are highly sensitive to changes there may be some lab studies to show this in pH, ionic strength, and temperature. Certain ingredient may have an effect it is not an phospholipids are capable of producing small oil approved ingredient for skin lightening, so it’s not droplets during homogenization, but again the really an active ingredient. In fact, if it had an droplets formed are highly sensitive to changes effect on skin like that it would be a mislabeled in environmental conditions. Biosurfactants drug. Basically, there is no such thing as an (saponins) can be utilized at low levels to form active ingredient in cosmetics. If a product has fine oil droplets that remain stable over a range an active ingredient, it is a drug. Functional of environmental conditions. Some nature- cosmetic ingredients are those whose main derived (e.g., cellulose, chitosan, purpose in the formula is to deliver a benefit to a and starch) are effective at stabilizing emulsions consumer. They may have some secondary containing relatively large oil droplets. Future effect of improving the feel of the product when research is encouraged to identify, isolate, it’s applied or stabilizing the formula but the purify, and characterize new types of natural primary reason, they are added is for the effect emulsifier, and to test their efficacy in food, they have on skin or hair [43]. Cosmetic cosmetic, detergent, personal care, and other surfactant performs detergency, wetting, products [57]. emulsifying, solubilizing, dispersing and foaming Cautions with Sensitive skin in using regular effects. Adverse reactions of chemical synthesis skin care cosmetics surfactant have an effect on environment and Sensitive skin is generally defined as skin that is humans, particularly severe in long term. reactive to external aggressors both in the Biodegradability, low toxicity and ecological environment and skincare. When this barrier is acceptability which are the benefits of naturally weakened due to exposure to environmental derived surfactant that promises cosmetic safety aggressors, harsh products or because the body are, therefore, highly on demand. Biosurfactant is worn down through stress for example, it is producible from microorganisms exhibiting unable to function properly and the sensitive potential surface properties suitable for cosmetic nerve endings just under the skin become applications especially incorporate with their irritated and subsequently react [189]. biological activities. Sophorolipids, rhamnolipids Therefore, sensitive skin can be a result of either and mannosylerythritol lipids are the most widely nerve ending becoming more prone to irritation, used glycolipids biosurfactant in cosmetics. or the skin barrier function breaking down. Indeed, many of these biosurfactants could Sensitive skin presents as smarting, burning, exhibit a "prebiotic" character [54,55]. In addition stinging, itching, and/or tight sensation in their to their surfactant capacity, many biosurfactants skin. These symptoms may occur minutes to

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 29 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 hours after contact with a cosmetic product/ the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act environmental or even after several (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling episodes of use of a topic product, triggering the Act (FPLA). FDA regulates cosmetics under the conduction by cumulative effect [190]. Sensitive authority of these laws. In the United States, skin: often feels tight and uncomfortable; is federal laws are enacted by Congress. In order sometimes sore or sensitive to touch; needs to make the laws work on a day-to-day level, extra hydration in winter; dries out during flights; Congress authorizes certain government can be oily in summer; flushes easily after a agencies. such as FDA, to create regulations. A spicy meal or drinking alcohol; has patches of change in FDA's legal authority over cosmetics redness that may or may not fade; has areas of would require Congress to change the law uneven texture, with dryness and flakiness; [58].There are different regulatory bodies across reacts to skincare; becomes itchy or develops a the globe that have their own insights for rash after contact with irritants; can feel itchy regulation; moreover, governments such as the after wearing coarse, synthetic fabrics; turns red United States, European Union, and Japan and dries out after a hot shower or bath; follow a stringent regulatory framework, whereas becomes irritable after continued washing with cosmetics are not so much strictly regulated in hard water. common causes of sensitive skin countries such as India, Brazil, and China [59]. can include: (i) sun exposure (ii) exposure to air The alignment of a regulatory framework will pollution (iii) frequent changes in temperature play a significant role in the removal of barriers (iv) cold, harsh weather (v) hard water (water to trade, growth of market at an international with higher mineral content) (v) very hot water level, innovation in the development and (vi) lack of sleep (vii) hormonal changes during presentation of new products, and most your menstrual cycle or pregnancy (viii) stress importantly safety and efficacy of the marketed and late nights (ix) chlorine in swimming pools products. Unfortunately, despite the efforts of (x) dry skin (xi) dehydration [191]. Sensitive skin European Authorities, the current legislation is is less tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of still stratified and several criticisms remain cosmetics and toiletries. With the change in because of the lack of well-established scientific lifestyle and also with increased opportunity to knowledge on nanomaterials. Although the use many new brands of cosmetics and regulatory framework for cosmetic products is toiletries, there has been an increase in females almost complete, the efficacy and/or safety complaining of unique sensation in their facial assessment of nanomaterials in medicinal skin. The condition is found in more than 50% of products and medical devices is still based on women and 40% of men, creating a sizable case-by-case evaluation because of the demand for products designed to minimize skin complexity of such systems [60]. The United sensitivity. Good numbers of invasive and non- States (U.S.) and European Union (EU) share a invasive tests are designed to evaluate and common goal of ensuring the safety of cosmetics predict the sensitive skin. Management includes for consumers through rigorous science-based guidelines for selecting suitable cosmetics and regulation. The manner by which each regulates toiletries in sensitive skin individuals [192]. the safety of cosmetics is quite similar. The Cosmetics Regulations present contribution gives insight into the important cosmetic regulations in areas of The regulatory framework, compliance premarket approval, ingredient control, and requirement, efficacy, safety, and marketing of labeling and warnings, with a special focus on cosmetic products are considered the most the cosmetic regulatory environments in the important factors for growth of the cosmetic United States, European Union, Japan, and industry. The two most important laws pertaining India. The European Union’s framework of to cosmetics marketed in the United States are

AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 30 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 chemical and cosmetics regulations are binding vast number of chemicals, most of which are not on all Member States Regulations and are under the regulatory purview of the Food and enforced at the national level. Under the EU Drug Administration. Only a few of these Commission, Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 is chemicals have been evaluated for potential the key European legislation governing finished deleterious health impact: parabens, phthalates, cosmetics products in the EU Each country in polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and the EU has a competent authority that is . While the current scientific thinking on responsible for upholding compliance [59], [61]. many of these chemicals is that they are safe to In India, cosmetics are regulated as per Drugs use, it is up to each consumer to make their own and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945. Part- decision as to whether they purchase and use a XIII (regulates import and registration of product containing certain ingredients or not. cosmetics), part-XIV (manufacture of cosmetic Consumers should also try to purchase for sale or for distribution) and part-XV (regulates reputable brands from established sellers— labelling, packing and standards of cosmetics) cheap imports or copies bought online may not [62]. In Japan, cosmetics are regulated by the have been through the proper testing and Ministry of Health, Labor, and Welfare (MHLW) assessment process and may not contain what under the Pharmaceutical Affairs Law (PAL). For they claim to. legal reasons, cosmetics are divided into quasi- Article Summary drugs and cosmetics [63]. In Australia, the incorporates the most advanced importation, manufacture and use of scientific knowledge and technology including chemicals—including those used in cosmetics— chemistry, pharmacology, molecular biology, are regulated by the Australian Government’s genetic/new materials , immunology, National Industrial Chemicals Notification and and neurology, etc. Cosmetics are readily Assessment Scheme (NICNAS). NICNAS works available today in the form of creams, lipstick, to ensure that chemicals used in consumer perfumes, eye shadows, nail polishes, hair products do not cause significant harm to users sprays etc. Other cosmetics like face powder or to the environment [65]. give glow to the skin after applying the base Epilogue cream. Cosmetic ingredients/excipients are Civilizations have used cosmetics – though not incorporated to obtain detergency, wetting, always recognizable compared to today’s emulsifying, staining and soothing effects. advanced products – for centuries in religious Adverse reactions of chemicals have effects on rituals, to enhance beauty, and to promote good environment and humans, particularly severe in health. Cosmetics usage throughout history can long term. Many cosmetics have therapeutic be indicative of a civilization’s practical effects in use. Again, different population have concerns, such as protection from the sun, different profile of cosmetics use. As a indication of class, or conventions of beauty. consequence of this increasing application of People use cosmetics to keep clean and science to beauty, the line between cosmetic enhance their beauty. These products range and medical research is becoming blurred; the from lipstick and nail polish to deodorant, laboratories of major cosmetic companies perfume, hairspray, shampoo, shower gel, perform cutting-edge research in areas such as tattoos, hair adhesives, products, matrix biology, antioxidants and ageing hair dyes, most soaps, some tooth whiteners, processes. Proper rules and regulation should and some cleansing wipes. Physical be imposed on their , marketing appearance is an integral component of self- and distributions along with pricing. presentation in all social situations, including Abbreviations: The Cosmetic Ingredient that of applying for a job. Cosmetics contain a Review (CIR); Consumer Federation of America AJODRR: https://escipub.com/american-journal-of-dermatological-research-and-reviews/ 31 AK Mohiuddin, AJODRR, 2019 2:7 (CFA); Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS); Global Data sharing: Please contact author for data industry analysts (GIA); dibutyl phthalate requests (DnBP); triphenyl phosphate (TPHP); N- •Competing interests nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA); Ministry of The author declares that he has no competing Health, Labor, and Welfare (MHLW); interests Pharmaceutical Affairs Law (PAL); National Industrial Chemicals Notification and •Funding Assessment Scheme (NICNAS), Water, Funding from individual/Organization: N/A Sanitation, And Hygiene (WASH), High Density •Authors’ contributions Polyethylene (HDPE) The individual contributions of authors: N/A Acknowledgement References It’s a great honor and gratitude to be 1. Chapter 2. The body with limits. In: The Future of pharmacists in research and process. Post-Human Performing Arts: A Preface to a New All pharmacists, officials, journalists, magazine Theory of the Body and its Presence by Peter analysts and associates that I met in this Baofu, Published by Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2013, ISBN 1443844853, purpose, were very kind and helpful. I’m thankful 9781443844857 to Lauren Balukonis, account executive within 2. Unit 1. Cosmetics. In: Cosmetic Chemistry: An the beauty division at 5W Public Relations, Instant Approach by Ayaz Mahmood Dar, working with both entrepreneurs and established Published by Educreation Publishing brands and Dr. Rashmi Taneja, Plastic and 3. International Modeling Guide -5th Edition by Regina Niallah, published by FTC Publications, Cosmetic Surgeon in Vasant Kunj, Delhi for their Inc., 2007 ISBN 0977477126, 9780977477128 precious time to review my article and given their 4. Web L’Oréal USA. Bronzer vs. Contour: thoughtful suggestions. I’m also grateful to What's the Difference? Available From: seminar library of Faculty of Pharmacy, https://www.lorealparisusa.com/beauty- University of Dhaka and BANSDOC Library, magazine/makeup/face-makeup/bronzer-vs- contour-difference.aspx Bangladesh for providing me books, journal and 5. Tolentino G. In What Order Do I Apply My Skin newsletters. The greatest help was from Care Products? Web DermStore.com (Skin Care students and colleagues who continually Blogs), August 9, 2018. Available From: supported me in collection and data extraction https://www.dermstore.com/blog/in-what-order- from books, journals, newsletters and precious do-i-apply-my-skin-care-products-infographic/ 6. Web narscosmetics. LIPS TO STYLE. Available time in discussion followed by providing From: https://www.narscosmetics.com/USA/lips information on different types of cosmetics in 7. Dionisio KL, Phillips K, Price PS, Grulke CM, use. A portion of this article is long been lectured Williams A, Biryol D, Hong T, Isaacs KK. The as course material. 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