Product Testing Protocols: Apparel

Issued September 6, 2016 Revised May 25, 2017

Sampling Requirements Fabric and Pre-Production Testing (Required by Bluestem) One pre-production garment made in the production fabric, trim, and hardware. Measurement specifications must be issued along with the tech pack. The sample should be submitted in the sample size as listed below.

One yard or meter of production fabric in each additional colorway

Fabric testing is to be completed before fabric is cut for production. VENDOR CANNOT GO INTO PRODUCTION UNTIL BOTH TESTING AND FIT SAMPLES HAVE BEEN APPROVED If additional samples are required for flammability testing, two yards of production fabric in each colorway should be submitted (these fabrics include raised fiber surfaces such as cotton flannel, corduroy, velvet, and velveteen). Other fabrications may also apply. Warehouse Testing (Monitored by Bluestem Brands only, not required for vendors)

One sample in any color from the production goods. Measurement specifications must be issued along with the tech pack. The sample should be submitted in the sample size as listed below.

Sample Sizes

Draper’s and Damon’s, Norm Thompson Appleseeds and Wintersilks: Women’s size 8 or Small

Sahalie: Women’s size 10 or Medium

Haband, Bedford Fair, or Old Pueblo Traders: Women’s size 12 or Medium

Blair: Women’s size 14 or Medium

All Brands Men’s Tops: Size 44 or L

All Brands Men’s Bottoms: Size 38 or L

All Brands Men’s Sportcoats: Size 44 or L

All Brands Mens Dress shirts submit size 17 1/2 X 34

All Brands: Hats, gloves, & scarves submit 1 of any color.

All Brands Bras and Intimates: Submit size 36B for bras and size 7 for women’s underwear. Men’s underwear submit size 38.

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 2 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17

Tests: All Fibers / All Fabrications Description Method Guidance Requirement LABELING 16 CFR Part 423, Care Labeling ASTM D 3136, Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation ASTM D 5489 Test one color per fabrication (one solid & one heather) Required Fiber Composition AATCC 20/20A for Customs No tolerance for single fiber; +/-3% for blends classification and FTC labeling. All Fabric Lots to be tested. 16 CFR Part 300, Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC and Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 303, /or CBP regulation 16 CFR Part 134

Manufacturer's 16 CFR Part 300, Must include a label identifying the manufacturer's name, registered Identification 16 CFR Part 303 trademark or registered identification number, as applicable FLAMMABILITY Apparel 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 - Flammability rating or Exemption Disclosure Flammability Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION / WORKMANSHIP No major defects such as stains, holes, slub yarns, missed stitches, or other Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 defects Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even color within a sample and between samples Seams should be neat, no open seams or needle damage. Hems should be Construction / Visual Evaluation straight and uniform in size. Threads should be properly trimmed. Product Workmanship should be free of defects that affect end use and appearance. General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken Appearance after Visual Evaluation stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or Laundering other changes that affect the appearance. COLORFASTNESS Fabrication Colors Dry Wet All Fiber Contents All colors except 4.0 3.0 except below pastels and white Denim, tie dye, dip dye, pigment prints, raised fiber All Colors 3.0 2.0 surfaces and pile Colorfastness to AATCC 8, All colors fabrics Crocking AATCC 116 Prints Dark colorways (deep green, dark **Plain surface navy, burgundy, 3.0 2.5 fabric maroon, purple, brown, black, red) Dark indigo denim Denim (washed), black 3.0 1.5 denim Exceptions: Denims, sulfur Home dyes, tie dyes, Swimwear: Use "Tide" detergent to Laundering: dip dyes, Dark, wash. Three (3) Hand Wash 1 pigment prints, Color Change neon/ Colorfastness to AATCC washes for machine and Cycle, Machine raised fiber fluorescent Washing and/or 135/150/158, (1) hand wash. One (1) Wash 3 Cycles surfaces, pile colors Commercial Dry AATCC TS-006, wash for dry cleaning. except as noted fabrics, dark Cleaning AATCC R-003 Leather is to be colorways "Professionally Dry (see** above) Cleaned" Color Change 4.0 3.5 3.0 Color Staining 3.5 3.0 3.0 Self Staining 4.5 4.5 4.5 Colorfastness to AATCC TS-001 All colors Color Change 4.0 Chlorine Bleach

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 3 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17

Tests: All Fibers / All Fabrications Description Method Guidance Requirement Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine AATCC TS-001 All colors Color Change 4.0 Bleach Colorfastness to Outerwear: Swimwear: Neon Swimwear: AATCC 16 Light 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 10 AFU Grade 2.0 COLORFASTNESS SWIMWEAR ONLY Chlorinated Pool AATCC 162 Shade Change 4.0 Water Shade Change 4.0 Sea Water AATCC 106 Staining 3.0 Colorfastness to Color Change 4.0 AATCC 15 All colors except white Perspiration Staining 3.0

Woven Garments by Fabrication Description Method Guidance Requirement FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%) Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%) PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE (minimum) (Excludes Hats, Gloves, and Scarves) Woven All Fibers and Fabrications except Denim and Pile Fabrics Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <2.5 oz/sqyd 20 15 Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 30 20 4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 40 30 >7.3 oz/sqyd 50 35 Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <2.5 oz/sqyd 1.5 1.0 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 2.0 1.5 4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 2.2 2.0 >7.3 oz/sqyd 3.0 2.5 Weight Seam lbf < 4.3 oz/sq yd 20 min Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 > 4.3 oz/sq yd 25 min Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4" DENIM (all values are minimums) Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <8.0 oz/sqyd 60 35 Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 8.0 - 9.8 oz/sqyd 80 45 9.9 - 11.9 oz/sqyd 90 55 > 12.0 oz/sqyd 100 75 Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <8.0 oz/sqyd 3.0 2.0 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 8.0 - 9.8 oz/yd 3.5 2.5 9.9 - 11.9 oz/yd 4.0 3.5 > 12.0 oz/yd 5.0 4.0 Weight Seam lbf <8.0 oz/sqyd 20 min Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 > 8.0 oz/sqyd 30 min Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4" DISTRESSED DENIM (all values are minimums) Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <8.0 oz/sqyd 50 35 Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 8.0 - 9.8 oz/sq yd 55 40 9.9 - 11.9 oz/sq yd 70 50 > 12.0 oz/sqyd 80 60

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 4 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17

Woven Garments by Fabrication Description Method Guidance Requirement Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <8.0 oz/sqyd 3.5 2.5 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 8.0 - 9.8 oz/yd 4.5 3.2 9.9 - 11.9 oz/yd 5.5 3.5 > 12.0 oz/yd 6.5 4.0 Weight Seam lbf <8.0 oz/sqyd 20 min Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 > 8.0 oz/sqyd 25 min Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4" WOVEN PILE FABRICS AND COTTON FLANNEL Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <2.5 oz/sqyd 20 12 Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 28 20 4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 32 24 >7.3 oz/sqyd 40 32 Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf <2.5 oz/sqyd 1.5 1.5 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 2.5 - 4.3 oz/sqyd 2 2 4.4 - 7.3 oz/sqyd 2.5 2.5 >7.3 oz/sqyd 2.5 2.5 Weight Seam lbf <4.3 oz/sqyd 15 min Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 > 4.3 oz/sqyd 15 min Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/8" Skewing AATCC 179 3.0% Maximum DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE Dimensional Stability (3 Home Laundering Dry Clean machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean) Length Width Length Width 100% Cotton, CVC -3% -3% -2% -2% Cotton/Spandex Blends -4% -4% -2% -2% AATCC 135/150/158,

Man Made Cellulosic Fibers AATCC TS-006, -3% -3% -2% -2% Man Made Synthetic Fibers AATCC R-003 -3% -3% -2% -2% Wool, Cashmere, Angora, or -4% -4% -3% -3% other animal hair blends AATCC 135/150/158, Dimensional Stability: Growth AATCC TS-006, +1% +1% +1% +1% AATCC R-003

Knit Garments by Fabrication Description Method Guidance Requirement FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION

As specified in Product Specification or Fabric Weight - Weft and Warp Knits ASTM D 3776 Purchase Order (+/- 5%)

PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE (MINIMUM) < 100 gr/m2 or <3.0 oz/sq yard = 35 psi - Weft Knits Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 ≥100 gr/m2 or ≥3.0 oz/sq yard = 45 psi - Weft Knits 30psi - Warp Knits

Skewing AATCC 179 4.0% Maximum

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 5 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17

Knit Garments by Fabrication DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - WEFT KNIT AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean) Fancy Knits, Jersey, Thermal / Pique, Pointelle, Fake Fur, Fleece, French Fiber Content Double Rib Knits Waffle Interlock Bird's Eye, Terry, Velour Knit Apparel Jaquard 100% Cotton, CVC or predominately Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 7%, Length 5%, Length 7%, Linen, Ramie, Hemp or Jute, Length 5%, Width 5% Width 5% Width 5% Width 7% Width 5% Width 7% Spandex Blends

Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 5%, Width 5% Olefin, CVS Width 5% Width 5% Width 5% Width 5% Width 5%

Home Home Home Home Home Laundering: Laundering: Laundering: Laundering: Laundering: Home Laundering: Length 5%, Length 5%, Length 7%, Length 5%, Length 7%, Length 5%, Width 5% Wool, Cashmere, Angora, Silk, Width 5% Width 5% Width 7% Width 5% Width 7% Rayon, Lyocell, CVL, CVRayon Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Drycleaning: Length 3%, Length 3%, Length 3%, Length 3%, Length 3%, Length 3%, Width 3% Width 3% Width 3% Width 3% Width 3% Width 3%

Dimensional Stability: Growth, Weft AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC Length 2%, Width 2% Knits TS-006, AATCC R-003 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - WARP KNIT AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean)

Home Laundering: Drycleaning: Plain Knits, Lace, Net, Mesh Length 5%, Width 5% Length 2%, Width 2%

AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC Dimensional Stability: Growth, Warp Length 2%, Width 2% TS-006, AATCC R-003

Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents Description Method Guidance Requirement FABRIC QUALITY/CONSTRUCTION As specified in Product Specification or Fabric Weight (Lbs per Dozen) ASTM D 3776 Purchase Order (+/- 5%) As specified in Product Specification or Thread Count ASTM D3887 Purchase Order (+/- 5%) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - All Fiber Contents (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean) Dimensional Stability: Home AATCC 135/150, Length Width Laundering AATCC TS-006 -5% -5% Dimensional Stability: Dry AATCC 158, Length Width Cleaning AATCC R-003 -3% -3% AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC Length Width Dimensional Stability: Growth TS-006, AATCC R-003 +2% +2% Skewing AATCC 179 4.0% Maximum

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 6 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17

Additional Tests for Products with Special Claims Description Method Guidance Requirement Required by FTC if claimed Criteria Wrinkle Resistance Wrinkle Free Wrinkle Resistance AATCC 124 / All Colors Tested after in Advertising. Fabric Smoothness 4.0 4.0 / Durable Press 143 5 Launderings Test required for each fabric Seam Smoothness 3.5 4.0 lot purchased? Crease Resistant 3.5 4.0 Fabrication Grade Snag Resistance ASTM D3939 CVC 3.0 CVS 2.0 Abrasion For corduroy fabric ASTM D4685 Face: 3.0; Back: 4.0 Resistance only

Stretch and ASTM D2594 / Knit: 95% Min.; Woven: 85% Min. Recovery D3107 Top Stop Strength Chain Crosswise Bottom Stop Pull Tab Strength (min.) (min.) Strength (min.) Strength (min.)

Lab should quote the Size 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 Zipper Strength ASTM D2061 zipper size in the Brass/Nickel 20 / 25 / 30 / 40 / 60 10 / 15 / 15 / 30 / 30 50 / 75 / 120 / 150 / 150 7 / 10 / 10 / 20 / 30 report for reference Aluminum 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / 60 10 / 15 / 15 / 20 / 20 50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100 7 / 10 / 10 / 15 / 20 Plastic/Nylon 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / 40 15 / 15 / 20 / 30 / 30 50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100 8 / 10 / 15 / 15 / 20 CEF 15 / 15 / 30 / 50 / 50 10 / 10 / 20 / 40 / 60 50 / 50 / 100 / 150 / 200 7 / 8 / 15 / 40 / 60 Button Attachment ASTM F963 15 lbs @ 10 seconds Min 30 psi. Snap & Fabric ASTM D4846 Snap only Snap and unsnap action: 2-8 lbs.; Snap strength: 15 lbs. Min. Strength Eyelet only, Using Eyelet Pull ASTM D1683 Tensile Testing Minimum 15 lbs. Strength Modified Machine, CRE Composition Fed. Std. 148a, Feather and down Required for Federal Fish Analysis Method 2 only and Wildlife Commission Required for Federal Fish Fed. Std. 148a, Feather and down Oxygen number and Wildlife Commission Less than 10.0 for an oxygen cleanliness rating Method 4 only and FTC Required by FTC if claimed Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3 Launderings - 70 (ISO2) - When Water Repellency claimed in Water Repellency AATCC 22 All colors in Advertising Advertising All colors. For Required by FTC if claimed Condition Height of Water Time Water Absorption Customs Duty in Advertising. Required by Rain Water Resistance - Classification. All AATCC 35 Customs if lower outerwear Rain test fabric lots tested. Shower Not more than 1.0 duty claimed. All Fabric Lots 2 feet 2 minutes Test Original and after gram to be tested. Storm 5 Home Launderings. Garment/Fabric Type Color Type Hour Grade Light/Med 10 hours 4.0 Silk/swimwear Dark 20 hours 4.0 Colorfastness to AATCC 16 All Colors Fluorescent 10 hours 2.0 Light Leather All Colors 10 hours 4.0 Suede All Colors 20 hours 3.0 All Other Garments All Colors 20 hours 4.0

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 7 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17

Additional Tests for Products with Special Claims Description Method Guidance Requirement Color Change 4.0 Colorfastness to All colors, except AATCC 107 Color Staining 3.0 Water pastels and white Self-Staining 4.5 Colorfastness to All colors, except Color Change 4.0 Chlorinated Pool AATCC 162 pastels and white Color Change-Fluorescent 3.0 Water Color Change 4.0 Colorfastness to All colors, except Color Change-Fluorescent 3.0 AATCC 106 Sea Water pastels and white Color Staining 3.0 Self-Staining 4.5 Soil Release AATCC 130 All Colors Required by FTC if claimed 4.0 Minimum after 5 home launderings in Advertising, All Fabric Oil Repellency AATCC 118 For stain repellent Lots to be Tested. Original 5.0; After 5 home launderings 4.0 pH Value AATCC 81 White colors & denim pH 5.0 - 7.0 Formaldehyde AATCC 112 All colors Max. 75 ppm EPA Required by CPSC, All For PU, PVC or likewise coated Lead Content All colors Meet Federal requirements according to the end use of the fabrics. 3050B/3051 Fabric Lots to be Tested. fabrics. AATCC 197 Required by FTC if claimed Vertical Wicking Knit: 8cm after 30 min, Woven: 5cm after 30 min Wicking All colors in Advertising, All Fabric Horizontal wicking - water absorption rate: ASTM D5802 Horizontal Wicking Lots to be Tested. Knit: minimum 0.035g/second Woven: minimum 0.02 g/second Required by FTC if claimed Anti-bacterial AATCC 147 All colors in Advertising, All Fabric Original No Growth Lots to be Tested. Required by FTC if claimed Knit: ≥ 160 cfm Air Permeability ASTM D737 All colors in Advertising, All Fabric Original Woven: ≥ 20 cfm Lots to be Tested. Required by FTC if claimed 1. Fabric classification: Moisture Management Moisture Liquid Moisture AATCC 195 All colors in Advertising, All Fabric 2. One way transport capability: Grade 3.5 management Management Lots to be Tested. 3. Overall moisture management capability (OMMC): Grade 3.5

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 8 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17

Summary of Revisions DATE: DESCRIPTION OF REVISION: September 20, 2016 Added to Sampling Requirements: Hats, gloves, & scarves submit 2 of each color. October 7, 2016 Added to Sampling Requirements: Haband requirements March 30, 2017 Change to protocol to include fabric testing and pre-production testing requirements

Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 9 of 9 Revised: 5-25-17