WO 2017/167364 Al 5 October 2017 (05.10.2017) P O P C T

(12) INTERNATIONAL APPLICATION PUBLISHED UNDER THE PATENT COOPERATION TREATY (PCT) (19) World Intellectual Property Organization International Bureau (10) International Publication Number (43) International Publication Date WO 2017/167364 Al 5 October 2017 (05.10.2017) P O P C T

(51) International Patent Classification: AO, AT, AU, AZ, BA, BB, BG, BH, BN, BR, BW, BY, A61K 8/60 (2006.01) A61Q 19/08 (2006.01) BZ, CA, CH, CL, CN, CO, CR, CU, CZ, DE, DK, DM, A61K 8/73 (2006.01) A61K 8/97 (2006.01) DO, DZ, EC, EE, EG, ES, FI, GB, GD, GE, GH, GM, GT, HN, HR, HU, ID, IL, IN, IR, IS, JP, KE, KG, KN, KP, KR, (21) International Application Number: KZ, LA, LC, LK, LR, LS, LU, LY, MA, MD, ME, MG, PCT/EP2016/056977 MK, MN, MW, MX, MY, MZ, NA, NG, NI, NO, NZ, OM, (22) International Filing Date: PA, PE, PG, PH, PL, PT, QA, RO, RS, RU, RW, SA, SC, 30 March 2016 (30.03.2016) SD, SE, SG, SK, SL, SM, ST, SV, SY, TH, TJ, TM, TN, TR, TT, TZ, UA, UG, US, UZ, VC, VN, ZA, ZM, ZW. (25) Filing Language: English (84) Designated States (unless otherwise indicated, for every (26) Publication Language: English kind of regional protection available): ARIPO (BW, GH, (71) Applicant: SYMRISE AG [DE/DE]; MuhlenfeldstraBe 1, GM, KE, LR, LS, MW, MZ, NA, RW, SD, SL, ST, SZ, 37603 Holzminden (DE). TZ, UG, ZM, ZW), Eurasian (AM, AZ, BY, KG, KZ, RU, TJ, TM), European (AL, AT, BE, BG, CH, CY, CZ, DE, (72) Inventors: TRUNET, Aurelie; 4 rue Mathilde Girault, DK, EE, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, HR, HU, IE, IS, IT, LT, LU, 92300 Levallois Perret (FR). BAPTISTE, Caroline; 10 LV, MC, MK, MT, NL, NO, PL, PT, RO, RS, SE, SI, SK, rue de Martyrs, 75000 Paris (FR). LE MAIRE, Marielle; SM, TR), OAPI (BF, BJ, CF, CG, CI, CM, GA, GN, GQ, 212 cour Aquitaine, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt (FR). GW, KM, ML, MR, NE, SN, TD, TG). (74) Agent: FABRY, Bernd; SchlossstraBe 523-525, 41238 Published: Monchengladbach (DE). — with international search report (Art. 21(3)) (81) Designated States (unless otherwise indicated, for every kind of national protection available): AE, AG, AL, AM,

(54) Title: AN ACTIVE MIXTURE

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(57) Abstract: Suggested is an active mixture, comprising or consisting of: (a) at least one biopolymer; (b) at least one glycosa - minoglycan; (c) at least one disaccharide; and optionally (d) at least one active selected from the group consisting of phenols and/or polyphenols. AN ACTIVE MIXTURE

FIELD O F INVENTION

[0001 ] The prese nt invention belongs to the area of cosmetics and refers to a com plex mixture for rejuvenating human skin, com positions com prisi ng said mixture, a method for fighti ng ski n agei ng and the use of said mixture as an anti-agei ng active.

STATE O F THE ART

[0002] How to rejuvenate human ski n in 5 minutes? This a basic question for all prod ucers of cosmetic prod ucts sti ll looking for that magic "Cinderella" active that allows turni ng old, rough and floppy ski n in the twin kling of an eye into you ng, smooth and firm tissue. In fact, fine li nes and wrin kles are the main concern of wome n fighti ng signs of agei ng. Studies show that 81 % of fema le consu mers that seek quick and visible resu lts spend 70 % more tha n average on face ca re. At the sa me t ime, 70 % of these consu mers want to know which ingredients thei r prod ucts contai n, whi le prod ucts contai ning actives which are directly derived from natu ral sou rces, in particula r from pla nts are by far preferred .

[0003] No dou bt, state of the art provides a magnitude of alternatives how to solve the problem, which work, some better some worse. Various actives are cited again and agai n for solvi ng the problem of everlasting young and pretty skin : caffei ne, elastin, collagen, vita min A, E, C, and in particu la r extracts forming an extraordi nary bota nica l selection sta rting from A li ke Aronia to Z like Zao.

[0004] A major disadva ntage of the prod ucts within the market is that they requi re a high num ber of applications over a long period of time in order to exhibit a visible and rema rka- ble effect - if any.

[0005] Therefore, the problem underlyi ng the present invention has not been sim ply to de- velop another cocktai l of actives for rejuvenati ng skin, but to provide a com position that needs only a single application and leads withi n a couple of minutes to a visi ble tightening effect on ski n.

DESCRI PTION O F THE INVENTION

[0006] Object of the present invention is an active mixtu re, com prising or consisting of:

(i) at least one biopolymer;

(ii) at least one glycosa minoglyca n; (iii) at least one disaccha ride; and optiona lly

(iv) at least one active selected from the group consisting of phenols and/or polyphenols.

[0007] Su rprisi ngly, it has been observed that the terna ry and prefera bly the quaterna ry com positions when applied improve tension of human skin . In fact, skin becomes significa ntly smoother, the appea rance of wrin kles and fine li nes decreases. Most surprising has been that this effect does not req uire the application over days and weeks, but visible effects are achieved within 5 t o 10 min utes as ca n be shown from objective data . The effect ca n be described as "natu ral photo shoppi ng" .

[0008] BIOPOLYMERS

[0009] A biopolymer (com ponent a) is a polymeric structure that is found in or is copied from nature. In the fra mework of the present invention this term is covered by beta-gl uca ns on one side and chitosa ns on the other.

[001 0] Beta glucans

[001 1] β-Gluca ns com prise a grou p of β-D-gl ucose polysaccha rides natura lly occurri ng in the cell w alls of cerea ls, yeast, bacteria, and f ungi, with significa ntly differing physicochemica l properties dependent on sou rce. Typica lly, β-gluca ns form a li nea r backbone with 1-3 β- glycosidic bonds but vary with respect t o molecula r mass, solu bility, viscosity, bra nching structure, and gelation properties, ca using diverse physiologica l effects in anima ls.

[001 2] Various studies have exa mined the potentia l hea lth effects of β-gluca n. Oat fibre β- gluca n at inta ke levels of at least 3 g per day ca n decrease the levels of saturated fats in the blood and may red uce the risk of hea rt disease. Some studies have suggested that cerea l- derived β-gluca n may also have immunomod ulatory properties. Yeast and medicina l mush- room derived β-gl uca ns have been investigated for their ability t o modu late the immune system , β-gluca ns are further used in various nutraceutica l and cosmetic products, as textur- ing agents, and as fibre su pplements, but ca n be problematic in the process of brewing.

[001 3] Gluca ns are arra nged in six-sided D-glucose rings connected li nea rly at varyi ng ca r- bon positions depending on the source, although most com mon ly β-gl uca ns incl ude a 1-3 glycosidic li nk in thei r backbone. Although technical ly β-gluca ns are chains of D-gl ucose polysaccha rides lin ked by β-type glycosidic bonds, by conve ntion not all β-D-gl ucose polysaccha rides are categorized as β-gl uca ns. Cell ulose is not typica lly considered a β-gluca n, as it is insol uble and does not exhibit the sa me physicochemica l properties as other cerea l or yeast β-gluca ns.'4 [001 5] Some β-gl uca n molecu les have bra nching glucose side-chai ns attached t o other positions on the main D-glucose chai n, which bra nch off the β-gl uca n backbone. In addition, these side-chai ns ca n be attached t o other types of molecules, li ke proteins, as in Polysaccharide-K.

[001 6] The most com mon forms of β-gl uca ns are those com prisi ng D-gl ucose units with β- 1,3 links. Yeast and f unga l β-gluca ns contain 1-6 side bra nches, while cerea l β-gl uca ns contai n both β-1,3 and β-1,4 backbone bonds. The freq uency, location, and length of the side- chains may play a role in immunomod ulation. Differences in molecula r weight, sha pe, and structure of β-gl uca ns dictate the differences in biologica l activity.

[001 7] β-gluca ns form a natu ral com ponent of the cell walls of bacteria, f ungi, yeast, and cerea ls such as oat and barley. Each type of beta-gluca n com prises a different molecula r backbone, level of bra nchi ng, and molecu la r weight which is responsible for its sol ubility and physiologica l impact. One of the most com mon sources of β (1,3)D-glucan for supplement use is derived from the cell wall of baker's yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae). The β(1,3)D- gluca ns from yeast are often insolu ble. However, β(1,3)(1,4)-glucan are also extracted from the bra n of some grai ns, such as oats and barley, and t o a much lesser degree in rye and wheat. Other sou rces include some types of seaweed,' 8 1 and various species of mush rooms, such as reishi, Ganoderma applanatum [9] , shiita ke, Chaga and maita ke.

[001 8] Cerea l β-gluca ns from oat, barley, wheat, and rye, ind uce a variety of physiologica l effects that positively impact hea lth . Ba rley and oat β-gluca ns have been studied for thei r effects on blood glucose regulation in test subjects with hypercholesterolemia

[001 9] Oats and barley differ in the ratio of trimer and tetra mer 1-4 li nkages. Ba rley has more 1-4 li nkages with a degree of polymerization higher tha n 4 . However, the majority of barley blocks remai n trimers and tetra mers. In oats, β-gluca n is found mai nly in the endosperm of the oat kerne l, especia lly in the outer layers of that endosperm .

[0020] β-D-Gl uca n forms part of the cel l wall of certain medica lly importa nt fungi, especia l- ly Aspergillus and Agaricus species. M ush room beta-gluca ns are li nked by 1,3 glycosidic bonds with 1,6 bra nches. An assay t o detect its presence in blood is marketed as a mea ns of diagnosi ng invasive f unga l infection in patients. Fa lse positives may occur beca use of f unga l conta minants in the antibiotics amoxicil li n-clavula nate, and piperacil li n/tazobacta m. Fa lse positives ca n also occu r with conta mination of clinica l specimens with the bacteria Streptococcus pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Alcaligenes faecalis, which also produce (1->3) β-D-gluca n.

[0021 ] M ush room β-gl uca ns have been proposed t o act as " biologica l response modifiers" based on thei r effects on the immune system .'171 It has been suggested that receptors on the su rface of innate immune cel ls ca lled dectin-1 and com plement receptor 3 (CR3 or CDllb/CD18) are responsible for binding t o β-gl uca ns, allowing the immune cel ls t o recog- nize them as " non-self" . This immune response regulation also affects antitumour properties. Several studies note an impact on epithelia l cell cytoki ne generation .

[0022] β-Gluca ns fou nd in the cell walls of yeast contain a 1,3 ca rbon backbone with elongated 1,6 ca rbon bra nches A series of human clinica l tria ls in the 1990s evaluated the impact of PGG-gluca n on infections in high-risk surgica l patients. In these studies, PGG-gluca n significa ntly red uced com plications. Ora lly admi nistered yeast-gl uca n was reported t o decrease the levels of IL-4 and IL-5 cytokines responsible for the cli nica l manifestation of allergic rhinitis, whi le increasing the levels of IL-12.

[0023] In the cou rse of the present invention the most prefe rred beta-gl uca ns are fractions from oat kernel.

[0024] Chitosans

[0025] Chitosa ns are biopolymers which belong t o the grou p of hyd rocol loids. Chemica lly, they are partly de-acetylated chiti ns differing in their molecu la r weights which contain the fol lowi ng - idea lized - monomer unit:

[0027] In contrast t o most hydrocolloids, which are negatively cha rged at biologica l pH values, chitosa ns are cationic biopolymers under these conditions. The positively cha rged chitosa ns are ca pable of interacting with oppositely cha rged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair-ca re and body-ca re products and pha rmaceutica l prepa rations.

[0028] GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANS

[0029] Glycosa minoglyca ns (GAGs) also ca lled mucopolysaccha rides are long unbra nched polysaccha rides consisti ng of a repeati ng disaccha ride unit. The repeati ng unit (except for kerata n) consists of an amino suga r (/V-acetylglucosa mine or /V-acetylga lactosa mine) along with a uronic suga r (gl ucu ronic acid or id uronic acid) orga lactose. Glycosa minoglyca ns are high ly pola r and attract water. They are therefore usefu l t o the body as a lubrica nt or as a shock absorber.

[0030] Glycosa minoglyca ns have high degrees of heterogeneity with rega rds t o molecula r mass, disaccha ride construction, and su lfation d ue t o the fact that GAG synthesis, unli ke proteins or nucleic acids, is not tem plate driven, and dyna mica lly mod ulated by processing enzymes.

[0031 ] Based on core disaccha ride structu res, GAGs are classified into four groups. Hepa- rin/hepa ran su lfate (HSGAGs) and chond roiti n su lfate/dermata n sulfate (CSGAGs) are synthesized in the Golgi appa ratus, where protein cores made in the rough endoplasmic reticu- lum are posttra nslationa lly modified with O-li nked glycosylations by glycosyltra nsferas- esform ing proteoglyca ns. Kerata n su lfate may modify core proteins t hrough N-li nked glycosylation or O-lin ked glycosylation of the proteoglyca n. The fourth class of GAG, hyaluronic acid, is not synthesized by the Golgi, but rather by integra l membra ne synthases which im- mediate ly secrete the dyna mica lly elongated disaccha ride chain .

[0032] HSGAG and CSGAG modified proteoglyca ns first begi n with a consensus Ser-G ly/Ala- X-Gly motif in the core protein . Construction of a tetrasaccha ride li nker that consists of - where xylosyltransferase, transferase (GalTI)^3-galactosyl transferase (GalT-ll), and β3-GlcA transferase (GlcAT-l) transfer the four monosaccharides, begins synthesis of the GAG modified protein. The first modification of the tetrasaccharide linker determines whether the HSGAGs o r CSGAGs will be added. Addi- tion of a GlcNAc promotes the addition of HSGAGs while addition of GalNAc t o the tetrasaccharide linker promotoes CSGAG development.' 5 1 GlcNAcT-l transfers GlcNAc t o the tetra- saccahride linker, which is distinct from glycosyltransferase GlcNAcT-ll, the enzyme that is utilized t o build HSGAGs. Interestingly, EXTL2 and EXTL3, two genes in the EXT tumor sup- pressor family, have been shown t o have GlcNAcT-l activity. Conversely, GalNAc is trans- ferred t o the linker by the enzyme GalNAcT t o initiate synthesis of CSGAGs, an enzyme which may or may not have distinct activity compared t o the GalNAc transferase activity of chondroitin synthase.

[0033] With regards t o HSGAGs, a multimeric enzyme encoded by EXT1 and EXT2 of the EXT family of genes, transfers both GlcNAc and GlcA for HSGAG chain elongation. While elongat- ing, the HSGAG is dynamically modified, first by N-deacetylase, N-sulfotransferase (NDST1), which is a bifunctional enzyme that cleaves the N-acetyl group from GlcNAc and subse- quently sulfates the N-position. Next, C-5 uronyl epimerase coverts d-GIcA t o 1-ldoA followed by 2-0 sulfation of the uronic acid sugar by 2-0 sulfotransferase (Heparan sulfate 2- O-sulfotransferase). Finally, the 6-0 and 3-0 positions of GlcNAc moities are sulfated by 6- 0 (Heparan sulfate 6-O-sulfotransferase) and 3-0 (3-OST) sulfotransferases.

[0034] Chondroitin sulfate and dermatan sulfate, which comprise CSGAGs, are differentiat- ed from each other by the presence of GlcA and IdoA epimers respectively. Similar t o the production of HSGAGs, C-5 uronyl epimerase converts d-GIcA t o 1-ldoA t o synthesize dermatan sulfate. Three sulfation events of the CSGAG chains occur: 4-0 and/or 6-0 sulfation of GalNAc and 2-0 sulfation of uronic acid. Four isoforms of the 4-0 GalNAc sulfotransferases (C4ST-1, C4ST-2, C4ST-3, and D4ST-1) and three isoforms of the GalNAc 6- 0 sulfotransferases (C6ST, C6ST-2, and GalNAc4S-6ST) are responsible for the sulfation of GalNAc.

[0035] Unlike HSGAGs and CSGAGs, the third class of GAGs, those belonging t o keratan sulfate types, are driven towards biosynthesis through particular protein sequence motifs. For example, in the cornea and cartilage, the keratan sulfate domain of aggrecan consists of a series of tandemly repeated hexapeptides with a consensus sequence of E(E/L)PFPS. Addi- tionally, for three other keratan sulfated proteoglycans, umican, keratocan, and mimecan (OGN), the consensus sequence NX(T/S) along with protein secondary structure was determined t o be involved in /V-linked oligosaccharide extension with keratan sulfate. Keratan sulfate elongation begins at the nonreducing ends of three linkage oligosaccharides, which define the three classes of keratan sulfate. Keratan sulfate I (KSI) is N -linked via a high mannose type precursor oligosaccharide. Keratan sulfate II (KSI I) and keratan sulfate III (KSI 11) are O-linked, with KSII linkages identical t o that of mucin core structure, and KSI 11linked t o a 2-0 mannose. Elongation of the keratan sulfate polymer occurs through the glycosyltransferase addition of Gal and GlcNAc. Galactose addition occurs primarily through the β-1,4- galactosyltransferase enzyme ^4Gal-Tl) while the enzymes responsible for β-3- Nacetylglucosamine have not been clearly identified. Finally, sulfation of the polymer occurs at the 6-position of both sugar residues. The enzyme KS-Gal6ST (CHST1) transfers sulfate groups t o galactose while N-acetylglucosaminyl-6-sulfotransferase (GlcNAc6ST) (CHST2) transfers sulfate groups t o terminal GlcNAc in keratan sulfate. [0036] The fourth class of GAG, hyalurona n (or hyaluronic acid), is not su lfated and is synthesized by t hree tra nsmem brane synthase proteins HASl, HAS2, and HAS3 . HA, a linea r polysaccha ride, is com posed of repeati ng disaccha ride units and has a very high molecu la r mass, ranging from 105 t o 107 Da . Each HAS enzyme is ca pable of tra nsglycosylation when supplied with UDP-GIcA and UDP-GlcNAc. HAS2 is responsible for very la rge hyaluronic acid polymers, while sma ller sizes of HA are synthesized by HASl and HAS3 . Whi le each HAS isoform cata lyzes the sa me biosynthetic reaction, each HAS isoform is independently active. HAS isoforms have also been shown t o have differing Km values for UDP-G IcA and UDPGIcNAc. It is believed that t hrough differences in enzyme activity and expression, the wide spectrum of biologica l f unctions mediated by HA ca n be regulated.

[0037] Whi le glycosa minoglyca ns (com ponent b) ca n be selected from the grou p consisting of chondroitin su lfate, dermata n su lfate, kerati n sulfate, hepa rin, hepa rin su lfate and hyalurona n or their mixtures, the most preferred one is hyalurona n (hya luronic acid) or one of its sa lts (i. e. sodi um hyaluronate).

[0038] DISACCARI DES

[0039] Disaccha rides, formi ng com ponent (c) represent suga rs formed when two monosaccha rides (sim ple suga rs) are joined. Like monosaccha rides, disaccha rides are sol uble in water. Three com mon exa mples are sucrose, lactose, and maltose. Disaccha rides are one of the fou r chemica l grou pings of ca rbohydrates (monosaccharides, disaccha rides, oligosaccharides, and polysaccha rides). The most com mon types of disaccha rides— sucrose, lactose, and maltose— have twelve ca rbon atoms, with the genera l form ula The differences in the disaccha rides are due t o atomic arra ngements within the molecu le.

[0040] The joining of sim ple suga rs into a dou ble suga r ha ppens by a condensation reaction, which involves the elimi nation of a water molecule from the functiona l groups only. Brea k- ing apart a dou ble suga r into its two sim ple suga rs is accom plished by hydrolysis with the help of a type of enzyme ca lled a disaccha ridase. As buildi ng the la rger suga r ejects a water molecu le, brea king it down consumes a water molecule. These reactions are vita l in meta bolism . Each disaccha ride is broken down with the hel p of a correspondi ng disaccha- ridase (sucrase, lactase, and maltase).

[0041 ] There are two differe nt types of disaccha rides:

• Reduci ng disaccha rides, in which one monosaccha ride, the reducing suga r, stil l has a free hemiaceta l unit; and non-red uci ng disaccha rides, in which the com ponents bond through an aceta l li nkage between thei r anomeric ce ntres and neither monosaccha ride has a free hem iaceta l unit. Cellobiose and maltose are exa mples of reducing disaccharides.

• Sucrose and treha lose are exa mples of non-reducing disaccha rides.

[0042] The glycosidic bond ca n be formed between any hydroxyl grou p on the com ponent monosaccha ride. So, even if both com ponent suga rs are the sa me (e.g., glucose), different bond com binations (regiochemistry) and stereochemistry (alpha- or beta-) result in disaccha rides that are diastereoisomers with different chemica l and physica l properties.

[0043] De pending on the monosaccha ride constituents, disaccha rides are sometimes crys- tal li ne, someti mes water-sol uble, and sometimes sweet-tasti ng and sticky-feeli ng. [0044] While said disaccharides can be selected from the group consisting of sucrose, lactu- lose, lactose, maltose, cellobiose, chitobiose, trehalose and mixtures thereof, the preferred species, however, is trehalose.

[0045] ACTIVES

[0046] While the ternary mixtures explained above provide good results in terms of anti- ageing, it is a seriously preferred embodiment of the present invention to add actives selected from the group consisting of caffeic acid (I) , coumaric acid (II), ferulic acid (III), diferulic acids (IV), saponarins (V), catechins (VI), procyanidins (VII), prodelphinidins (VIII), hordenine (IX) and mixtures thereof as component (d).

[0047] The mixtures according to the present invention may comprise one, two, three or even all of the actives (I) to (IX) including similar species, like gallocatechines, epigallocate- chines and the like.

[0048] An overall preferred embodiment, however, is to add as component (d) an extract of hordeum vulgare (barley) to the composition, since these extracts contain almost all or even all actives cited above in working amounts.

[0049] CARRIERS

[0050] The mixtures comprising components (a), (b), (c) and optionally (d) may be blended with a carrier which is cosmetically acceptable. Examples for suitable carriers encompass water, C -C aliphatic alcohols, C -C alkylene glycols, C -C alkanediols, glycerol, oil bodies 2 4 2 4 6 12 and their mixtures. Preferred carriers are water, glycerol, alkanediols like for example 1,2- hexanediol, and/or glycols like for example pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or mixtures thereof.

[0051] Typically the amount of carriers in the blend ranges from about 99 to about 50 % b.w., preferably about 90 to about 70 % b.w. and particularly from about 85 to about 75 % b.w.

[0052] MIXTURES

[0053] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the mixtures comprise or consist of:

(a) about 10 to about 40 % b.w., preferably about 15 to about 35 % b.w., and even more preferred about 20 to about 30 % b.w. of at least one biopolymer;

(b) about 1 to about 15 % b.w., preferably about 2 to about 12 % b.w., and even more preferred about 5 to about 10 % b.w. of at least one glycosaminoglycan;

(c) about 10 to about 40 % b.w., preferably about 15 to about 35 % b.w., and even more preferred about 20 to about 30 % b.w. of at least one disaccharide; and optionally

(d) 0 to about 5 % b.w., preferably about 0.5 to about 4 % b.w., and even more preferred about 1 to about 2 % b.w. of at least one active selected from the group consisting of phenols and/or polyphenols, on condition that the amounts add - optionally with a cosmetically acceptable carrier - to 100 % b.w.

[0054] Another preferred embodiment of the invention refers to mixtures comprising or consisting of:

(a) about 1 to about 15 % b.w., preferably about 2 to about 12 % b.w., and even more preferred about 5 to about 10 % b.w beta-glucan(s);

(b) about 1 to about 15 % b.w., preferably about 2 to about 12 % b.w., and even more preferred about 5 to about 10 % b.w.

(c) about 10 to about 40 % b.w., preferably about 15 to about 35 % b.w., and even more preferred about 20 to about 30 % b.w. of D-trehalose; and (d) 0 t o about 5 % b.w., prefera bly about 0.5 t o about 4 % b.w., and even more preferred about 1 t o about 2 % b.w. extract of hordeum vulgare, on condition that the amou nts add - optiona lly with a cosmetica lly accepta ble ca rrier - t o 100 % b.w.

[0055] COSM ETIC COM POSITIONS

[0056] Another object of the present invention refers t o cosmetic com positions com prising the above-references active mixture. The term "cosmetic com position" sha ll also encom pass persona l ca re com positions. Prefera bly, the active mixtu res are present in said com positions in amounts of from about 0.1 t o about 15 % b.w., prefera bly about 1 t o about 12 % b.w. and even more preferred about 5 t o about 10 % b.w.

[0057] Said cosmetic or persona l ca re com position prefera bly represents a skin ca re and/or sun ca re product, such as for exa mple a cosmetic crea m, lotion, spray, emulsion, ointment, gel or mouse ans the li ke. Typica l exa mples are ski n crea ms and sun ca re lotions.

[0058] The prepa rations according t o the invention may contai n abrasives, anti-acne agents, agents against agei ng of the skin, anti-cell ulitis agents, antida nd ruff agents, anti- infla mmatory agents, irritation-preventing agents, irritation-i nhibiti ng agents, antioxida nts, astringents, perspiration-in hibiting agents, antiseptic agents, ant-statics, binders, buffers, ca rrier materia ls, chelating age nts, cell sti mula nts, clea nsi ng agents, ca re agents, depilatory agents, surface-active substa nces, deodorizi ng agents, anti perspira nts, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essentia l oils, fibres, film-formi ng agents, fixatives, foa m-forming agents, foa m sta bilizers, su bsta nces for preventi ng foa ming, foa m boosters, ge lli ng agents, gel-forming agents, hair ca re agents, hair-setting agents, hai r-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moistu rizing su bsta nces, moistu re-retai ning substa nces, bleaching agents, strength- ening agents, stain-removing agents, optica lly brighte ning agents, impregnating agents, dirt- repelle nt age nts, friction-reducing agents, lubrica nts, moisturizi ng crea ms, ointments, opaci- fying agents, plasticizi ng agents, coveri ng agents, polish, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins, re-oiling agents, abrading agents, silicones, skin-soothi ng agents, skin-clea nsing agents, skin ca re agents, ski n-hea li ng agents, skin-lightening agents, ski n-protecti ng agents, skin-softening agents, hair promotion agents, cooli ng agents, skin-cooli ng agents, warming agents, ski n-wa rming agents, sta bilizers, UV-absorbing agents, UV filters, detergents, fabric conditioning agents, suspendi ng agents, skin-ta nning agents, thickeners, vita mins, oils, waxes, fats, phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyu nsaturated fatty acids, a- hyd roxy acids, polyhydroxyfatty acids, liquefiers, dyestuffs, colour-protecting agents, pigments, anti-corrosives, aromas, flavou ring substa nces, odoriferous su bsta nces, polyols, surfacta nts, electrolytes, orga nic solvents or si licone derivatives and the like as additiona l auxilia ries and additives.

[0059] SURFACTANS

[0060] Preferred auxilia ries and additives are anionic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfacta nts. Typica l exa mples of anionic surfacta nts are soa ps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alka nesulfonates, olefi n su lfonates, alkylether su lfonates, glycerol ether su lfonates, methyl ester su lfonates, su lfofatty acids, alkyl su lfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oli- goglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolin- ium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are all known compounds. In- formation on their structure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works, cf. for example J. Falbe (ed.)# "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 t o 124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloladditive (Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pages 123-217. The percentage content of surfactants in the preparations may be from 0.1 t o 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 t o 5% by weight, based on the preparation.

[0061] OIL BODIES [0062] Suitable oil bodies, which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 t o 18, preferably 8 t o 10, carbon atoms, -C acids -C esters of linear C6 22-fatty with linear or branched C6 22-fatty alcohols or esters of -C acids -C such as, branched C6 1 3-carboxylic with linear or branched C6 22-fatty alcohols, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of -C acids in linear C6 22-fatty with branched alcohols, particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C18- -C in C38- alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6 22-fatty alcohols, particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglyc- based on -C acids, based on -C erides C6 10-fatty liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures C6 18- acids, fatty esters of C6- C22-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C - C -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched 2 12 alcohols having 1 t o 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 t o 10 carbon atoms and 2 t o 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and -C such as, branched C6 22-fatty alcohol carbonates, for example, Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol ® CC), Guerbet carbonates, based on fatty alcohols having 6 t o 18, preferably 8 t o 10, acid -C (e.g. Fin- carbon atoms, esters of benzoic with linear and/or branched C6 22-alcohols solv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 t o 22 carbon atoms per alkyl grou p, such as, for exa mple, dica prylyl ether (Cetiol ® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, si licone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydroca rbons, such as, for exa mple, squa la ne, sq ualene or dia lkylcyclohexa nes.

[0063] The sa me oil bodies ca n also be used as ca rriers for the mixtures according t o the present invention.

[0064] EM ULSIFI ERS

[0065] Other surfacta nts may also be added t o the prepa rations as emulsifiers, incl uding for exa mple :

• products of the addition of 2 t o 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0 t o 5 mol propylene ¬ oxide onto li nea r C8-22 fatty alcohols, onto C12-22 fatty acids and onto alkyl phenols con tai ning 8 t o 15 ca rbon atoms in the alkyl grou p;

• C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 t o 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol;

• glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbita n mono- and diesters of satu rated and unsaturated fatty acids contai ning 6 t o 22 ca rbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof;

• addition products of 15 t o 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hyd rogenated castor oil;

• polyol esters and, in particula r, polyglycerol este rs such as, for exa mple, polyglycerol polyrici noleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystea rate or polyglycerol dimerate isostea rate. M ixtu res of com pou nds from severa l of these classes are also suita ble;

• addition products of 2 t o 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hyd rogenated castor oil;

• partia l esters based on li nea r, bra nched, unsaturated or saturated C6/22 fatty acids, rici noleic acid and 12-hyd roxystea ric acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, - dipentaeryth ritol, suga r alcohols (for exa mple sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for exa mple methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, la uryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (for exa mple cellu lose);

• mono-, di and tria lkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG-a lkyl phosphates and sa lts thereof;

• wool wax alcohols;

• polysiloxa ne/polya lkyl polyether copolymers and correspondi ng derivatives;

· mixed este rs of pentaeryth ritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and/or mixed

esters of C6-22 fatty acids, methyl glucose and polyols, prefera bly glycerol or polyglycerol,

• polya lkylene glycols and

• glycerol ca rbonate. [0066] The addition prod ucts of ethylene oxide and/or propyle ne oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbita n mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known com mercia lly availa ble prod ucts. They are homo- logue mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds t o the ratio between the qua ntities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and su bstrate with which the addition reaction is ca rried out. C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic form ulations. The preferred em ulsifiers are described in more detai l as follows:

[0067] Partial glycerides. Typica l exa m ples of suita ble partia l glycerides are hyd roxystea ric acid monoglyceride, hyd roxystea ric acid diglyceride, isostea ric acid monoglyceride, isostea ric acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, rici noleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, li noleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, li nolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, t arta ric acid monoglyceride, t arta ric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and tech nica l mixtu res thereof which may stil l contain sma ll q uantities of triglyceride from the production process. Addition prod ucts of 1 t o 30 and prefera bly 5 t o 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partia l glycerides mentioned are also suita ble.

[0068] Sorbitan esters. Suita ble sorbita n esters are sorbita n monoisostea rate, sorbita n ses- quiisostea rate, sorbita n diisostea rate, sorbita n triisostea rate, sorbita n monooleate, sorbita n sesquioleate, sorbita n dioleate, sorbita n trioleate, sorbita n monoerucate, sorbita n ses- quierucate, sorbita n dierucate, sorbita n trierucate, sorbita n monoricinoleate, sorbita n ses- qui ricinoleate, sorbita n diricinoleate, sorbita n tririci noleate, sorbita n monohyd roxystea rate, sorbita n sesquihyd roxystea rate, sorbita n dihyd roxystea rate, sorbita n trihyd roxystea rate, sorbita n monota rtrate, sorbita n sesquita rtrate, sorbita n dita rtrate, sorbita n trita rtrate, sorbita n monocitrate, sorbita n sesq uicitrate, sorbita n dicitrate, sorbita n tricitrate, sorbita n monoma leate, sorbita n sesquima leate, sorbita n dimaleate, sorbita n tri maleate and tech- nica l mixtures thereof. Addition prod ucts of 1 t o 30 and preferably 5 t o 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the sorbita n esters mentioned are also suita ble.

[0069] Polyglycerol esters. Typica l exa m ples of suita ble polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl- 2 Dipolyhyd roxystea rate (Dehym uls PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostea rate (La meform TGI ), Polyglyce ryl-4 Isostea rate (Isola n Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostea royl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostea rate (Isola n® PDI ), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distea rate (Tego Ca re 450), Poly- glyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina ), Polyglyceryl-4 Ca prate (Polyglycerol Ca prate T2010/90), Polyglyce ryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chi mexa ne NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distea rate (Cremophor ® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyrici noleate (Adm ul WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dime rate Isostea rate and mixtu res thereof. Exa m ples of other suita ble polyoleste rs are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propa ne o r pentaerythritol with la uric acid, cocofatty acid, t allow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stea ric acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optiona lly reacted with 1 t o 30 mol ethylene oxide.

[0070] Anionic emulsifiers. Typica l anionic em ulsifiers are aliphatic C12-22 fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, stea ric acid o r behenic acid for exa m ple, and C12-22 dica rboxylic acids, such as aze laic acid o r sebacic acid for exa m ple. [0071 ] Amphoteric emulsifiers. Other suita ble emulsifiers are amphboteric or zwitterionic surfacta nts. Zwitterionic surfacta nts are su rface-active com pou nds which contai n at least one quaterna ry ammoni um group and at least one ca rboxylate and one su lfonate group in the molecule. Pa rticu la rly suita ble zwitterionic surfacta nts are the so-ca lled betai nes, such as the N-a lkyl-N, N-di methyl ammoni um glycinates, for exa mple cocoa lkyl dimethyl ammoni- um glyci nate, N-acyla minopropyl-N, N-di methyl ammoni um glycinates, for exa mple cocoacyla minopropyl dimethyl ammoni um glycinate, and 2-al kyl-3-ca rboxymethyl-3- hyd roxyethyl imidazolines contai ning 8 t o 18 ca rbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacyla minoethyl hydroxyethyl ca rboxymethyl glyci nate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particula rly preferred . Ampho- lytic surfacta nts are also suita ble emulsifiers. Ampholytic surfacta nts are su rface-active com pounds which, in addition t o a C8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contai n at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -S0 3H- group in the molecule and which are ca pable of forming inner sa lts. Exa mples of suita ble ampholytic surfacta nts are N-a lkyl glyci nes, N-a lkyl propionic acids, N-a lkyla minobutyric acids, N-a lkyli minodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N- alkyla midopropyl glyci nes, N-a lkyl t aurines, N-a lkyl sa rcosi nes, 2-a lkyla minopropionic acids and alkyla minoacetic acids containing arou nd 8 t o 18 ca rbon atoms in the alkyl grou p. Pa r- ticula rly preferred ampholytic su rfacta nts are N-cocoa lkyla minopropionate, cocoacyla minoethyl aminopropionate and acyl sa rcosine. C12 /i8

[0072] SUPERFATTING AGENTS AND CONSISTENCY FACTORS

[0073] Superfatting agents may be selected from such su bsta nces as, for exa mple, la noli n and lecithi n and also polyethoxylated or acylated la noli n and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid este rs, monoglycerides and fatty acid alka nola mides, the fatty acid alka nola mides also serving as foa m sta bilizers.

[0074] The consistency factors mai nly used are fatty alcohols or hyd roxyfatty alcohols contai ning 12 t o 22 and prefera bly 16 t o 18 ca rbon atoms and also partia l glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A com bination of these su bsta nces with alkyl oligogl ucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl gluca mides of the sa me chain le ngth and/or polyglycerol poly-12- hyd roxystea rates is prefera bly used .

[0075] THICKENING AGENTS AND RH EOLOGY ADDITIVES

[0076] Suita ble thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil ® types (hyd rophilic si li- cas), polysaccha rides, more especia lly xantha n gum, gua r-gua r, aga r-aga r, algi nates and ty- loses, ca rboxymethyl cell ulose and hydroxyethyl cel lulose, also relatively high molecula r weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for exa m- ple Ca rbopols ® [Goodrich] or Syntha lens® [Sigma]), polyacryla mides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfacta nts such as, for exa mple, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for exa mple pentaeryth ritol or trimethylol propa ne, narrow-ra nge fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodi um chloride and ammoni- um chloride.

[0077] POLYMERS [0078] Suita ble cationic polymers are, for exa mple, cationic cell ulose derivatives such as, for exa mple, the quaternized hyd roxyethyl cell ulose obtaina ble from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400 ®, cationic sta rch, copolymers of dia llyl ammoni um sa lts and acryla mides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for exa mple, Luviquat ® (BASF), condensation prod ucts of polyglycols and amines, q uaternized col lagen polypeptides such as, for exa mple, La uryldi moniu m Hyd roxypropyl Hydrolyzed Col lagen (La meq uat ® L, Gruna u), q uaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyle neimi ne, cationic si licone polymers such as, for exa mple, amodi methicone, copolymers of adi pic acid and dimethyla minohy- droxypropyl diethylenetria mine (Ca rta reti ne , Sa ndoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl dia llyl ammoniu m chloride (Merq uat 550, Chemvi ron), polya minopolya mides and crosslin ked water-sol uble polymers thereof, cationic chiti n derivatives such as, for exa mple, quaternized chitosa n, optiona lly in microcrysta lli ne distri bution, condensation prod ucts of diha loa lkyls, for exa mple dibromobuta ne, with bis-dia lkyla mines, for exa mple bis- dimethyla mino-l,3-propa ne, cationic gua r gum such as, for exa mple, Jaguar CBS, Jagua r C- 17, Jagua r C-16 of Cela nese, q uaternized ammoni um sa lt polymers such as, for exa mple, M ira pol A-15, M irapol AD-1, M ira pol AZ-1 of M iranol and the various polyq uaterni um types (for exa mple 6, 7, 32 or 37) which ca n be fou nd in the market under the tradena mes Rheoca re CC or Ultragel 300.

[0079] Suita ble anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for exa mple, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/ma leic anhyd ride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrossli nked and polyol-crossli nked polyacrylic acids, acryla midopropyl trimethyla mmoniu m chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacryl- amide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-butyla minoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vi nyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/di methyla minoethyl methacrylate/vinyl ca prolacta m terpolymers and optiona l- ly derivatized cel lulose ethers and silicones.

[0080] PEARLIZING WAXES

[0081 ] Suita ble pea rlising waxes are, for exa mple, alkylene glycol esters, especia lly ethylene glycol distea rate; fatty acid alka nola mides, especia lly cocofatty acid dietha nola mide; partia l glycerides, especia lly stea ric acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optiona lly hyd roxy- substituted ca rboxylic acids with fatty alcohols contai ning 6 t o 22 ca rbon atoms, especia lly long-chai n esters of t arta ric acid; fatty com pounds, such as for exa mple fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty ca rbonates which contai n in all at least 24 ca rbon atoms, especia lly la urone and distea rylether; fatty acids, such as stea ric acid, hydroxystea ric acid o r behenic acid, ring openi ng prod ucts of olefi n epoxides contai ning 12 t o 22 ca rbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 t o 22 ca rbon atoms and/or polyols contai ning 2 t o 15 ca rbon atoms and 2 t o 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtu res thereof.

[0082] SILICONES

[0083] Suita ble silicone com pou nds are, for exa mple, dimethyl polysiloxa nes, methyl phenyl polysiloxa nes, cyclic si licones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, f luori ne-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone com pounds which may be both liq uid and resi n-li ke at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Todd et al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

[0084] WAXES AND STABILIZERS

[0085] Besides natural oils used, waxes may also be present in the preparations, more espe- cially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espar- tograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

[0086] Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

[0087] PRIMARY SUN PROTECTION FACTORS

[0088] Primary sun protection factors in the context of the invention are, for example, or- ganic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.

[0089] The formulations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UV- A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadband filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. Formulations according to the invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadband filter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter.

[0090] Preferred cosmetic compositions, preferably topical formulations according to the present invention comprise one, two, three or more sun protection factors selected from the group consistiung of 4-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, diphenyl acrylates, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, benzofuran derivatives, benzylidene malonate derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers containing one or more organosilicon radicals, cinnamic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, trianilino-s-triazine derivatives, 2-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives and salts thereof, anthranilic acid menthyl esters, benzotriazole derivativesand indole derivatives.

[0091] In addition, it is advantageous to combine compounds of formula (I) with active ingredients which penetrate into the skin and protect the skin cells from inside against sun- light-induced damage and reduce the level of cutaneous matrix metalloproteases. Preferred respective ingredients, so called arylhydrocarbon receptor antagonists, are described in WO 2007/128723, incorporated herein by reference. Preferred is 2-benzylidene-5,6-dimethoxy- 3,3-dimethylindan-l-one. [0092] The UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of the present inven tion are preferred but naturally are not limiting.

[0093] UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the group consisting of

• p-aminobenzoic acid

• p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA)

• p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester

• p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (2 mol) N-propoxylated

• p-aminobenzoic acid glycerol ester

• salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (homosalates) (Neo Heliopan®HMS)

• salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS)

• triethanolamine salicylate

• 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate

• anthranilic acid menthyl ester (Neo Heliopan®MA)

• diisopropyl cinnamic acid ethyl ester

• p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV)

• diisopropyl cinnamic acid methyl ester

• p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E 1000)

• p-methoxycinnamic acid diethanolamine salt

• p-methoxycinnamic acid isopropyl ester

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and salts (Neo Heliopan®Hydro)

• 3-(4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate

• beta-imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid)

• 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts

• 3-(4'-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC)

• 3-benzylidene-D,L-camphor

• N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl] acrylamide polymer

• 4,4'-[(6-[4-(l,l-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine-2,4 diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb®HEB)

• benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX)

• glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate

• dipropylene glycol salicylate

• tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4"-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tribenzoate (= 2,4,6 trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-l'-oxy)-l,3,5-triazine) (Uvinul®T150). [0094] Broadband filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of

• 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan®303) • ethyl-2-cyano-3,3'-diphenyl acrylate

• 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB)

• 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid • dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone • 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone • tetrahydroxybenzophenone • 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone • 2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl benzophenone • sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate • disodium-2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-5,5'-disulfobenzophenone • phenol, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-(trime- thylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl) propyl) (Mexoryl®XL)

• 2,2'-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4- 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb®M) • 2,4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-l,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb®S) • 2,4-bis-[{(4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine sodium salt • 2,4-bis-[{(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2-methoxyethyl carbonyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis-[{4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2- ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(l-methylpyrrol-2-yl)-l,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis-[{4-tris-(trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine • 2,4-bis-[{4-(2"-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5- triazine • 2,4-bis-[{4-(l', l ,,l ,,3,,5,,5',5 ,-hepta methylsiloxy-2"-methylpropyloxy)-2- hyd roxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine.

[0095] The com positions ca n com prise further typica l detergent and clea nsi ng com position ingredients such as UV-A filters filters which are prefera bly com bined with one or more com pounds of form ula (I) in a prepa ration accordi ng t o the present invention are selected from the group consisting of

• 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl metha ne

• t erephtha lylidene diborna ne su lfonic acid and sa lts (Mexoryl®SX)

· 4-t-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl metha ne (avobenzone) / (Neo Heliopa n®357)

• phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodi um sa lt (Neo Heliopa n®AP)

• 2,2'-(l,4-phenylene)-bis-(lH-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid), monosodiu m sa lt

• 2-(4-diethyla mino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvi nul® A Plus)

• inda nylidene com pou nds in accorda nce with D E 100 55 940 Al (= WO 2002 038537 Al)

[0096] The com positions ca n com prise further typica l detergent and clea nsi ng com position ingredients such as UV filters which are more prefe rably com bined with one or more com- pou nds of form ula (I) in a prepa ration accordi ng t o the present invention are selected from the group consisting of

• p-a minobenzoic acid

• 3-(4'-trimethyla mmoniu m) benzylidene borna n-2-one methyl su lfate

• sa licylic acid homomenthyl ester (Neo Heliopa n®HMS)

• 2-hyd roxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopa n®BB)

· 2-phenyl benzimidazole su lfonic acid (Neo Heliopa n®Hydro)

• t erephtha lylidene diborna ne su lfonic acid and sa lts (Mexoryl®SX)

• 4-te rt-butyl-4'-methoxydi benzoyl metha ne (Neo Heliopa n®357)

• 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidene borna n-2-one and sa lts

• 2-ethylhexyl-2-cya no-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopa n®303)

· N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl] benzyl] acryla mide polymer

• p-methoxyci nna mic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester (Neo Heliopa n®AV)

• p-a minobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated ( INCI name: PEG-25 PABA)

• p-methoxycin namic acid isoa myl ester (Neo Heliopa n®E1000)

• 2,4,6-tria nilino-(p-ca rbo-2'-ethylhexyl-l'-oxy)-l,3,5-triazine (Uvin ul®T150) • phenol, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-(trime- thylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl) propyl) (Mexoryl®XL)

• 4,4'-[(6-[4-(l,l-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine-2,4- diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb HEB)

• 3-(4'-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC)

• 3-benzylidene camphor

• salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS)

• 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Padimate 0 )

• hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and Na salt

• 2,2'-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4- 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb®M)

• phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo Heliopan®AP)

• 2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb®S)

• benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX)

• menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan®MA)

• 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul® A Plus)

• indanylidene compounds in accordance with D E 100 55 940 (= WO 02/38537).

[0097] Advantageous primary and also secondary sun protection factors are mentioned in W O 2005 123101 Al. Advantageously, these preparations contain at least one UVA filter and/or at least one UVB filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. The preparations may be present here in various forms such as are conventionally used for sun protection preparations. Thus, they may be in form of a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W/O) or of the oil-in-water type (O/W) or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in- water type (W/O/W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or else an aerosol.

[0098] In a further preferred embodiment a formulation according t o the invention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according t o the invention has a light protection factor of greater than or equal t o 2 (preferably greater than or equal t o 5). Such formulations according t o the invention are particularly suitable for protecting the skin and hair.

[0099] SECONDARY SUN PROTECTION FACTORS

[00100] Besides the groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for exam- pie uroca nic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-ca rnosi ne, D-ca rnosi ne, L- ca rnosi ne and derivatives thereof (for exa mple anse rine), ca rotinoids, ca rotenes (for exa m- ple alpha-ca rotene, beta-ca rotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, li ponic acid and derivatives thereof (for exa mple dihyd roli ponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for exa mple thioredoxi ne, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cysta mine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and la uryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, alpha-li noleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their sa lts, dila urylthiodipropionate, distea rylthiodi propionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, li pids, nucleotides, nucleosides and sa lts) and su lfoximi ne com pounds (for exa mple butionine sulfoxi mines, homocystei ne sulfoxi mine, butioni ne sul- fones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine su lfoximi ne) in very sma ll com pati ble dosages, also (meta l) chelators (for exa mple alpha-hyd roxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactofer- rine), alpha-hyd roxy acids (for exa mple citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bili rubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for exa mple linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiq uinol and derivatives thereof, vita min C and derivatives thereof (for exa mple ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for exa mple vita min E acetate), vita min A and derivatives (vita min A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resi n, ruti nic acid and derivatives thereof, glycosyl ruti n, ferulic acid, f urfurylidene glucitol, carnosi ne, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hy- droxya nisole, nordihyd roguaiac resi n acid, nordihyd roguaia retic acid, tri hydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, su peroxide dis- mutase, tita nium dioxide (for exa mple dispersions in etha nol), zinc and derivatives thereof

(for exa mple ZnO, ZnS04), sele niu m and derivatives thereof (for exa mple seleniu m methionine), stil benes and derivatives thereof (for exa mple stil bene oxide, tra ns-stil bene oxide) and derivatives of these active substa nces suita ble for the purposes of the invention (sa lts, esters, ethers, suga rs, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and li pids).

[001 0 1] Adva ntageous inorga nic seconda ry light protection pigments are finely dispersed meta l oxides and meta l sa lts which are also mentioned in W O 2005 123101 Al. The tota l qua ntity of inorga nic pigments, in particula r hydrophobic inorga nic micro-pigments in the finished cosmetic prepa ration accordi ng t o the present invention is adva ntageously from 0.1 t o 30% by weight, prefera bly 0.5 t o 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the tota l weight of the prepa ration.

[001 02] Also preferred are particulate UV filters or inorga nic pigments, which ca n optiona lly be hydrophobed, ca n be used, such as the oxides of tita nium (Ti0 2), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe20 3), zirconi um (Zr0 2), silicon (Si0 2), manga nese (e.g. M nO), alumi nium (Al 20 3), ceri um (e.g. Ce 20 3) and/or mixtu res thereof.

[001 03] ACTIVES MODU LATING SKIN PIGMENTATION

[001 04] Preferred active ingredients for ski n lighteni ng are selected from the group consisting of: kojic acid (5-hyd roxy-2-hyd roxymethyl-4-pyra none), kojic acid derivatives, prefera bly kojic acid dipalmitate, arbuti n, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, prefera bly magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, hydroq uinone, hyd roquinone derivatives, resorci nol, resorcinol derivatives, prefera bly 4-a lkyl resorcinols and 4-(l-phenylethyl)l,3-di hydroxybenzene (phenylethyl resorci nol), cyclohexylca rba mates (prefera bly one or more cyclohexyl ca rba mates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), su lfur-contai ning molecu les, preferably glutathione or cysteine, alpha-hydroxy acids (prefera bly citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), sa lts and esters thereof, N-acetyl tyrosine and derivatives, undecenoyl phenyla la nine, gluconic acid, chromone derivatives, prefera bly aloesin, flavonoids, 1-a minoethyl phosphinic acid, thiou rea derivatives, ellagic acid, nicoti namide (niaci namide), zinc sa lts, prefera bly zinc chloride or zinc gluconate, t huja plicin and derivatives, triterpenes, prefera bly masli nic acid, sterols, prefe rably ergosterol, benzofu ranones, prefera bly senkyunolide, vinyl guiacol, ethyl guiacol, dionic acids, prefera bly octodecene dionic acid and/or azelaic acid, inhibitors of ni- trogen oxide synthesis, prefera bly L-nitroa rgi nine and derivatives thereof, 2,7- dinitroi ndazole or thiocitrul li ne, meta l chelators (prefera bly alpha-hyd roxy fatty acids, phytic acid, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), retinoids, soy milk and extract, serine protease inhibitors or li poic acid or other synthetic or natu ral active ingredients for skin and hai r lighteni ng, the latte r prefera bly used in the form of an extract from pla nts, prefera bly bea rberry extract, rice extract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, mulberry extract, bengkoa ng extract, nutgrass extract, liquorice root extract or constituents concentrated or isolated therefrom, prefera bly gla bridin or licocha lcone A, artoca rpus extract, extract of rumex and ramulus species, extracts of pine species (pi nus), extracts of vitis species or stil bene derivatives isolated or concentrated therefrom, saxifrage extract, scutel- leria extract, gra pe extract and/or microa lgae extract, in particu la r Tetraselmis suecica Ex- tract .

[001 05] Preferred ski n lighte ners as com ponent (b) are kojic acid and phenylethyl resorci nol as tyrosi nase inhibitors, beta- and alpha-a rbuti n, hyd roquinone, nicoti namide, dioic acid, Mg ascorbyl phosphate and vita min C and its derivatives, mulberry extract, Bengkoa ng extract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, nutgrass extract, licorice extract (containing glycyrrhizin), alpha-hyd roxy-acids, 4-a lkyl resorcinols, 4-hyd roxya nisole. These skin lighteners are preferred due t o thei r very good activity, in particula r in com bination with scla reolide according t o the present invention. In addition, said preferred skin lighteners are readily avai la ble.

[001 06] Adva ntageous skin and hai r t anning active ingredients in this respect are substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosi nase such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L- dihyd roxyphenyla la nine, xanthi ne alka loids such as caffeine, theobromi ne and theophyl-li ne and derivatives thereof, proopiomela nocortin peptides such as ACTH, alpha-MSH, peptide ana logues thereof and other su bsta nces which bind t o the mela nocorti n receptor, peptides such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Lys-lle- Gly-Arg-Lys or Leu-lle-G ly-Lys, purines, pyrimidi nes, folic acid, copper sa lts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1,3,4-oxadiazole- 2-thiols such as 5-pyrazi n-2-yl-l,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiol, curcu min, zinc diglycinate (Zn(Gly)2), manganese(l l) bica rbonate com plexes (" pseudocat-a lases") as descri bed for exa mple in EP 0 584 178, tetrasubstituted cyclohexene deriva-tives as descri bed for exa mple in WO 2005/032501 , isoprenoids as descri bed in WO 2005/102252 and in WO 2006/010661 , mel- anin derivatives such as Melasyn-100 and Mela nZe, diacyl glycerols, aliphatic or cyclic diols, psora lens, prostagla ndi ns and ana-logues thereof, activators of adenylate cyclase and com- pou nds which activate the tra nsfer of mela nosomes t o ke rati nocytes such as serine proteases or agonists of the PAR-2 receptor, extracts of pla nts and pla nt parts of the chrysa nthe- mum species, sa n-guisorba species, walnut extracts, urucum extracts, rhuba rb extracts, microa lgae extracts, in particu la r Isoch rysis galba na, treha lose, eryth ru-lose and dihyd roxyace- tone. Flavonoids which bri ng about ski n and hair t inti ng or brown-ing (e.g. querceti n, rha m- netin, kaem pferol, fiseti n, genistein, daidzei n, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechi n, diosmi n and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringeni n, hespe ridin, phloridzin and phloreti n) ca n also be used .

[001 07] The amount of the aforementioned exa mples of additiona l active ingredients for the mod ulation of ski n and hair pigmentation (one or more com pou nds) in the products according t o the invention is then prefera bly 0.00001 t o 30 wt.%, prefera bly 0.0001 t o 20 wt.%, particu la rly prefera bly 0.001 t o 5 wt.%, based on the tota l weight of the prepa ration.

[001 08] ADDITIONAL ANTI-AGEING ACTIVES

[001 09] In the context of the invention, further anti-ageing or biogenic agents are, for example antioxida nts, matrix-meta lloproteinase inhibitors (M M PI), skin moistu rizing agents, glycosa minglyca n sti mulators, anti-infla mmatory age nts, TRPV1 antagonists and additiona l pla nt extracts.

[001 10] Antioxidants. Suita ble antioxida nts encom pass amino acids (prefe rably glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptopha ne) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (prefera bly uroca nic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, prefera bly D,L-ca rnosine, D-ca rnosine, L-ca rnosi ne and derivatives thereof (prefera bly anserine), ca rniti ne, creatine, matrikine peptides (prefera bly lysyl-threonyl-th reonyl-lysyl-serine) and palmitoylated penta peptides, ca rotenoids, ca rotenes (prefera bly alpha-ca rotene, beta-ca rotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (prefera bly dihydrolipoic acid), aurothiogl ucose, propyl thiouracil and other thiols (prefera bly thioredoxi ne, glutathione, cysteine, cysti ne, cysta- mine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and la uryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl, glyceryl and oligoglyceryl esters thereof) and sa lts thereof, dila uryl thiodipropionate, distea ryl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (prefe rably esters, ethers, peptides, li pids, nucleotides, nucleosides and sa lts) and sulfoxi mine com pou nds (prefera bly buthionine su lfoximi nes, homocysteine sulfoxi mine, buthioni ne su lfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine su lfoximi ne) in very sma ll tolerated doses (e .g. pmol t o µιηοΙ/kg), also (meta l) chelators (prefera bly alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferri n, alpha-hyd roxy acids (prefera bly citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, t annins, bilirubin, biliverdi n, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (prefe rably gamma-li nolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives the reof, ubiquinone and derivatives thereof, ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vita min C and derivatives (prefera bly ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherols and derivatives (prefe rably vita min E acetate), vita min A and derivatives (vita min A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoic resi n, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, flavonoids and glycosylated precursors thereof, in particu la r quercetin and derivatives thereof, prefera bly alpha-glucosyl ruti n, rosma rinic acid, ca rnosol, ca rnosolic acid, resveratrol, caffeic acid and derivatives thereof, sina pic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, curcuminoids, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, reti noids, prefera bly retinyl palmitate, reti nol or tretinoin, ursolic acid, levu li nic acid, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hyd roxya nisole, nordihyd roguaiac acid, nordihyd roguaia retic acid, tri hydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof

(prefera bly ZnO, ZnS04), seleni um and derivatives thereof (prefera bly selenium methionine), superoxide dism utase, stil benes and derivatives thereof (prefe rably sti lbene oxide, tra ns- stil bene oxide) and the derivatives (sa lts, esters, ethers, suga rs, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these cited active ingredients which are suita ble according t o the invention or extracts or fractions of pla nts having an antioxida nt effect, prefera bly green tea, rooibos, honeybush, gra pe, rosema ry, sage, melissa, thyme, lavende r, olive, oats, cocoa, gin kgo, ginseng, liq uorice, honeysuckle, sophora, pue raria, pin us, citrus, Phylla nth us emblica or St. Joh n's wort, gra pe seeds, wheat germ, Phyl la nth us emblica, coenzymes, prefera bly coenzyme Q.10, plastoquinone and menaq uinone. Preferred antioxida nts are selected from the group consisting of vita min A and derivatives, vita min C and derivatives, tocopherol and derivatives, prefera bly tocopheryl acetate, and ubiquinone.

[001 11] If vita min E and/or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxida nt(s), it is adva ntageous t o choose thei r concentrations from the range from about 0.001 t o about 10 % b.w. based on the tota l weight of the form ulation . If vita min A or vita min A derivatives or ca rotenes or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxida nt(s), it is adva ntageous t o choose their concentrations from the range from about 0.001 t o aout 10 % b.w. based on the tota l weight of the form ulation.

[001 12] Matrix-Metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPI). Preferred com positions com prise matrix-meta lloprotei nase inhibitors, especia lly those inhibiting matrix-meta lloprotei nases enzymatica lly cleavi ng col lagen, selected from the group consisti ng of: ursolic acid, reti nyl palmitate, propyl gallate, precocenes, 6-hyd roxy-7-methoxy-2,2-di methyl-l(2H)- benzopyra n, 3,4-di hydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-l(2H)-benzopyra n, benza midine hyd rochloride, the cysteine proteinase inhibitors N-ethylma lemide and epsilon-a mino- n-ca proic acid of the serin protease inhibitors: phenylmethylsufonylfluoride, col lhibin (company Pe nta pha rm; INCI: hydrolysed rice protei n), oenotherol (com pany Solia nce; INCI : propylene glycol, aq ua, Oenothera biennis root extract, ellagic acid and ellagita nnins, for exa m- ple from pomegra nate), phosphora midone hinokitiol, EDTA, gala rdin, Eq uiStat (com pany Col la borative Group; apple fruit extract, soya seed extract, ursolic acid, soya isoflavones and soya proteins), sage extracts, M D I (com pany Atriu m; INCI : glycosam inoglyca ns), fermiski n (com pany Si la b/Mawi; INCI : water and lenti nus edodes extract), acti mp 1.9.3 (com pany Ex- panscience/Ra hn; INCI : hyd rolysed lupine protein), lipobelle soyaglycone (com pany M ibelle; INCI : alcohol, polysorbate 80, lecithin and soy isoflavones), extracts from green and black tea and further pla nt extracts, which are listed in W O 02 069992 A l (see t ables 1-12 there, incorporated herei n by reference), protei ns or glycoprotei ns from soya, hyd rolysed proteins from rice, pea or lupine, pla nt extracts which inhibit M M Ps, prefe rably extracts from shita ke mush rooms, extracts from the leaves of the Rosaceae family, su b-fa mily Rosoideae, quite particula rly extracts of blackberry leaf (prefera bly as described in W O 2005 123101 Al, incorporated herein by reference) as e.g. Sym Matrix (com pany Sym rise, INCI : M altodextrin, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract). Preferred actives of are se lected from the group consisting of retinyl palmitate, ursolic acid, extracts from the leaves of the Rosaceae family, sub-fa mily Rosoideae, genistei n and daidzein .

[001 13] Glycosaminoglycan stimulators. Preferred com positions com prise substa nces stim ulati ng the synthesis of glycosa minoglyca ns selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid and derivatives or sa lts, Subliskin (Sederma, INCI : Si norhizobiu m Meli loti Ferment Fi ltrate, Cetyl Hyd roxyethylcel lulose, Lecithin), Hya lufix (BASF, INCI : Water, Butylene Glycol, Alpi nia gala nga leaf extract, Xa ntha n Gum, Ca prylic/Ca pric Triglyceride), Sti mulhyal (Soli- ance, INCI : Ca lciu m ketogluconate), Syn-G lyca n (DSM, INCI : Tetradecyl Ami nobutyroylva lyl- aminobutyric Urea Trifl uoroacetate, Glycerin, Magnesi um chloride), Ka lpa ria ne (Biotech Marine), DC Upregulex (Distinctive Cosmetic Ingredients, INCI : Water, Butylene Glycol, Phospholipids, Hyd rolyzed Serici n), glucosa mine, N-acetyl glucosa mine, retinoids, prefera bly reti nol and vita min A, Arctiu m la ppa fruit extract, Eriobotrya japonica extract, Genkwa nin, N-Methyl-L-serine, (-)-a lpha-bisa bolol or synthetic alpha-bisa bolol such as e.g. Dragosa ntol and Dragosa ntol 100 from Sym rise, oat gluca n, Echinacea purpu rea extract and soy protei n hyd rolysate. Prefe rred actives are selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid and derivatives or sa lts, retinol and derivatives, (-)-a lpha-bisa bolol or synthetic alpha-bisa bolol such as e.g. Dragosa ntol and Dragosa ntol 100 from Sym rise, oat gluca n, Echinacea purpu rea extract, Sinorhizobi um Meli loti Ferment Fi ltrate, Calciu m ketogl uconate, Alpinia gala nga leaf extract and tetradecyl aminobutyroylva lyla minobutyric urea trifl uoroacetate.

[001 14] Anti-inflammatory agents. The com positions may also contai n anti-infla mmatory and/or redness and/or itch ameliorati ng ingredients, in particula r steroida l substa nces of the corticosteroid type selected from the group consisti ng of hydrocortisone, dexa methasone, dexa methasone phosphate, methyl prednisolone or cortisone, are adva ntageously used as anti-infla mmatory active ingredients or active ingredients t o relieve reddening and itchi ng, the list of which ca n be extended by the addition of other steroida l anti- infla mmatories. Non-steroida l anti-i nfla mmatories ca n also be used. Exa mples which ca n be cited here are oxica ms such as piroxica m or tenoxica m; sa licylates such as aspi rin, disa lcid, sol prin or fendosa l; acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tol metin or cli nda nac; fena mates such as mefena mic, meclofenam ic, flufena mic or niflu mic; propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofe n, naproxen, benoxa profen or pyrazoles such as phenyl butazone, oxyphenyl butazone, febrazone or aza propazone. Anthra nilic acid derivatives, in particula r avena nthra mides described in W O 2004 047833 Al, are preferred anti-itch ingredients in a com position according t o the prese nt invention .

[001 15] Also usefu l are natu ral or natura lly occurri ng anti-i nfla mmatory mixtures of substa nces or mixtures of substa nces that alleviate reddeni ng and/or itchi ng, in particula r extracts or fractions from ca momile, Aloe vera, Com miphora species, Rubia species, w illow, wil low-herb, oats, ca lendu la, arnica, St Joh n's wort, honeysuckle, rose mary, Passiflora inca r- nata, witch hazel, ginger or Echi nacea; prefera bly selected from the group consisting of extracts or fractions from ca momi le, Aloe vera, oats, calend ula, arnica, honeysuckle, rosema ry, witch hazel, ginger or Echi nacea, and/or pure su bsta nces, prefera bly alpha-bisa bolol, apig- enin, apigeni n-7-gl ucoside, gingerols, shogaols, gingerdiols, dehyd rogi ngerdiones, paradols, natura l or natura lly occuring avena nthra mides, prefera bly tra nilast, avena nthra mide A, avena nth ramide B, ave nanth ramide C, non-natura l or non-natura lly occu ring avena n- thra mides, prefera bly dihydroavena nthra mide D, dihydroave nanth ramide E, avena n- thra mide D, ave nan-thra mide E, avena nth ramide F, boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizin, gla bridin and licocha lcone A; prefera bly selected from the grou p consisting of alpha- bisa bolol, natu ral avena nth ramides, non-natura l ave nanth ramides, prefera bly dihydroavena nth ramide D (as described in W O 2004 047833 Al), boswel lic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizin, and licocha lcone A, and/or alla ntoin, panthe nol, la nolin, (pseudo-)cera mides [preferably Cera mide 2, hydroxypropyl bispa lmita mide M EA, cetyloxypropyl glyceryl methoxypro- pyl myrista mide, N-(l-hexadeca noyl)-4-hyd roxy-L-proline (1-hexadecyl) ester, hyd roxyethyl palmityl oxyhyd roxypropyl palmita mide], glycosphingoli pids, phytosterols, chitosa n, mannose, lactose and β-gluca ns, in particula r 1,3-1,4^-gl uca n from oats.

[001 16] When bisa bolol is used in the context of the present invention it ca n be of natura l or synthetic origin, and is prefera bly "alpha-bisa bolol" . Prefera bly, the bisa bolol used is syn- thetica lly prepa red or natura l (-)-a lpha-bisa bolol and/or synthetic mixed-isomer alpha- bisabolol. If natural (-)-alpha-bisabolol is used, this can also be employed as a constituent of an essential oil o r of a plant extract o r of a fraction thereof, for example as a constituent of (fractions of) oil or extracts of camomile or of Vanillosmopsis (in particular Vanillosmopsis erythropappa o r Vanillosmopsis arborea). Synthetic alpha-bisabolol is obtainable, for exam- pie, under the name "Dragosantol" from Symrise.

[00117] In case ginger extract is used in the context of the present invention, preferably extracts of the fresh o r dried ginger root are used which are prepared by extraction with methanol, ethanol, iso-propanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, carbon dioxide (C02), hexane, methylene chloride, chloroform or other solvents o r solvent mixtures of comparable polari- ty. The extracts are characterized by the presence of active skin irritation-reducing amounts of constituents such as e.g. gingerols, shogaols, gingerdiols, dehydrogingerdiones and/or paradols.

[00118] TRPV1 antagonists. Suitable compounds which reduce the hypersensitivity of skin nerves based on their action as TRPV1 antagonists, encompass e.g. trans-4-tert-butyl cyclo- hexanol as described in WO 2009 087242 Al, or indirect modulators of TRPV1 by an activa- tion of the µ-receptor, e.g. acetyl tetrapeptide-15, are preferred.

[00119] Desquamating agents. The compositions may also contain desquamating agents (component b5) in amounts of about 0.1 t o about 30 % b.w. preferably about 0.5 t o about 15 % b.w., particularly preferably about 1 t o about 10 % b.w. based on the total weight of the preparation. The expression "desquamating agent" is understood t o mean any com- pound capable of acting:

• either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid); a - hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic o r mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; extract of Sophora japonica; resveratrol and some derivatives of jasmonic acid;

• or o n the enzymes involved in the desquamation o r the degradation of the cor- neodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) o r other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). There may be mentioned agents chelating inorganic salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N,N',N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminosul- phonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2- ethane)sulphonic acid (HEPES); derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine); derivatives of alpha-amino acids of the glycine type (as described in EP-0 852 949, and sodium methylglycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine; chestnut extracts such as those marketed by the company SILAB under the name Recoverine ®, prickly pear extracts such as those marketed under the name Exfolactive ® by the company SILAB, or Phytosphingosine SLC® (phytosphingosine grafted with a salicylic acid) marketed by the company Degussa.

[00120] Desquamating agents suitable for the invention may be chosen in particular from the group comprising sulphonic acids, calcium chelators, a-hydroxy acids such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; nicotinamide; urea; (N-2- hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane)sulphonic acid (HEPES), β-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, retinoids such as reti nol and its esters, retina l, retinoic acid and its derivatives, those described in the documents FR 2570377 Al, EP 0199636 Al, EP 0325540 Al, EP 0402072 Al, chestnut or prickly pea r extracts, in particu la r marketed by SI LAB; reduci ng com pounds such as cystei ne or cystei ne precu rsors.

[001 2 1] Desq uamati ng agents which ca n be used are also nicotinic acid and its esters and nicotina mide, also ca lled vita min B3 or vita min PP, and ascorbic acid and its precu rsors, as described in particula r in application EP 1529522 Al.

[001 22] Anti-cellulite agents. Anti-cel lulite agents and li polytic agents are prefera bly se lected from the group consisting of those described in WO 2007/077541, and beta-adre nergic receptor agonists such as syneph rine and its derivatives, and cyclohexyl ca rba mates described in W O 2010/097479. Agents enhanci ng or boosti ng the activity of anti-cell ulite agents, in particula r agents which sti mulate and/or depola rise C nerve fibres, are prefera bly selected from the group consisting of ca psaicin and derivatives thereof, vanil lyl-nonyla mid and derivatives thereof, L-ca rnitine, coenzym A, isoflavonoides, soy extracts, ananas extract and conjugated li noleic acid.

[001 23] Fat enhancing agents. Form ulations and products according t o the present invention may also com prise one or more fat enha nci ng and/or adipogenic agents as well as agents enhanci ng or boosting the activity of fat enhanci ng agents. A fat enhancing agent is for exa mple hyd roxymethoxyphenyl propylmethyl methoxybe nzofura n (trade name: Sym3 D®).

[001 24] PHYSIOLOGICAL COOLING AGENTS

[001 25] The com positions may also contai n one or more substances with a physiologica l cooling effect (cooling agents), which are prefera bly selected here from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives (for exa mple L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomenthol, neoisomenthol, neomenthol) menthylethers (for exa mple (l-menthoxy)-l,2- propa ndiol, (l-menthoxy)-2-methyl-l,2-propa ndiol, l-menthyl-methylether), menthyleste rs (for exa mple menthylformiate, menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthyllactates, L- menthyl-L-lactate, L-menthyl-D-lactate, menthyl-(2-methoxy)acetate, menthyl-(2- methoxyethoxy)acetate, menthyl pyrogluta mate), menthylca rbonates (for exa mple menthylpropyleneglycolca rbonate, menthylethyleneglycolca rbonate, menthylglycerolca r- bonate or mixtures thereof), the semi-esters of menthols with a dica rboxylic acid or derivatives thereof (for exa mple mono-menthylsucci nate, mono-menthylgl uta rate, mono- menthylma lonate, O-menthyl succinic acid ester-N, N-(di methyl)a mide, O-menthyl succinic acid ester amide), mentha neca rboxylic acid amides (in this case prefera bly mentha neca r- boxylic acid-N-ethyla mide [WS3] or N -(me ntha neca rbonyl)glyci nethylester [WS5], as described in US 4,150,052, mentha neca rboxylic acid-N-(4-cya nophenyl)a mide or mentha neca rboxylic acid-N-(4-cya nomethylphenyl)a mide as described in W O 2005 049553 Al, metha neca rboxylic acid-N-(a lkoxya lkyl)a mides), menthone and menthone derivatives (for exam ple L-menthone glycerol keta l), 2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid derivatives (for exa mple 2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid-N-methyla mide [WS23] ), isopulegol or its esters (l-(-)-isopu legol, l-(-)-isopulegolacetate), mentha ne derivatives (for exa mple p- mentha ne-3,8-diol), cubebol or synthetic or natura l mixtures, contai ning cubebol, pyrrolidone derivatives of cycloa lkyldione derivatives (for exa mple 3-methyl-2(l-pyrrolidinyl)-2- cyclopentene-l-one) or tetra hyd ropyri midine-2-one (for exa mple ici li ne or related com- pou nds, as described in W O 2004/026840), f urther ca rboxa mides (for exa mple N-(2- (pyridin-2-yl)ethyl)-3-p-mentha neca rboxa mide or related com pou nds), (lR,2S,5 R)-N-(4- Methoxyphenyl)-5-methyl-2-(l-isopropyl)cyclohexa ne-ca rboxa mide [WS12], oxa mates (prefera bly those described in EP 2033688 A2).

[001 26] ANTI-INFLAMMATORY AGENTS

[001 27] Suita ble anti-infla mmatory agents may be selected from the group formed by:

(i) steroida l anti-i nfla mmatory su bsta nces of the corticosteroid type, in particula r hydrocortisone, hyd rocortisone derivatives such as hydrocortisone 17-butyrate, dexa- methasone, dexa methasone phosphate, methyl prednisolone or cortisone, (ii) non-steroida l anti-infla mmatory su bsta nces, in particula r oxica ms such as piroxica m or tenoxica m, sa licylates such as aspi rin, disa lcid, sol prin or fendosa l, acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, su li ndac, tolmeti n or clin- danac, fena mates such as mefena mic, meclofena mic, f lufena mic or niflu mic, propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen or benoxa profen, pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or aza propazone, (iii) natu ral or natu rally occu ring anti-i nfla mmatory su bsta nces or su bsta nces that alleviate reddening and/or itching, in particu la r extracts or fractions from ca momi le, Aloe vera, Com miphora species, Rubia species, w illow, w illow-herb, oats, ca lend ula, arnica, St John's wort, honeysuckle, rosema ry, Passiflora inca rnata, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea, or single active com pou nds thereof, (iv) hista mine receptor antagonists, seri ne protease inhibitors (e.g. of Soy extracts), TRPV1 antagonists (e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexa nol), NK1 antagonists (e.g. Aprepita nt, Hy- droxyphenyl Propa midobenzoic Acid), ca nnabinoid receptor agonists (e.g. Pa lmitoyl Etha nola mine) and TRPV3 antagonists.

[001 28] ANTI-MICROBIAL AGENTS

[001 29] Suita ble anti-microbia l agents are, in principle, all su bsta nces effective against Gra m-positive bacteria, such as, for exa mple, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid and its sa lts and esters, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4- dich lorophenyl)u rea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hyd roxy-diphenyl ether (triclosa n), 4-chloro-3,5-di methyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3- methyl-4-(l-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-ch lorophenoxy)-l,2- propa nediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylca rba mate, chlorhexidi ne, 3,4,4'-trichloroca rba nilide (TTC), antibacteria l fragra nces, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyetha nol, glycerol monoca prate, glycerol monoca prylate, glycerol monola urate (G M L), diglycerol monoca prate (DM C), sa licylic acid N-a lkyla mides, such as, for exa mple, n-octylsa licyla mide or n- decylsa licyla mide.

[001 30] PRESERVATIVES

[001 3 1] Suita ble preservatives are, for exa mple, phenoxyethanol, forma ldehyde sol ution, parabens, penta nediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of com pou nds listed in Appendix 6, Pa rts A and B of the Kosmeti kverordnu ng ("Cosmetics Directive"). [001 32] PERFUME OILS AND FRAGRANCES

[001 33] Suita ble perfume oils are mixtu res of natu ral and synthetic perfu mes. Natu ral per- fumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmi ne, neroli, yla ng-yla ng), stems and leaves (gera nium, patchou li, petitgrai n), fruits (a nise, coria nder, ca raway, j uni- per), fruit pee l (berga mot, lemon, ora nge), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, ca rda mom, costus, iris, ca lmus), woods (pi newood, sa nda lwood, guaiac wood, ceda rwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (ta rragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), need les and bra nches (spruce, fir, pine, dwa rf pine), resi ns and balsa ms (ga lbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, oliba num, opoponax). Anima l raw materia ls, for exa mple civet and beaver, may also be used. Typica l synthetic perfume com pounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hyd roca rbon type. Exa mples of perfu me com pou nds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert. butyl cyclohexylacetate, li nalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl ca rbi nyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, lina lyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glyci nate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styra llyl propionate and benzyl sa licylate. Ethers incl ude, for exa mple, benzyl ethyl ether whi le aldehydes incl ude, for exa mple, the linea r alka nals containing 8 t o 18 ca rbon atoms, citra l, citronel la l, citronel lyloxyaceta ldehyde, cycla men aldehyde, hyd roxycitronella l, lilia l and bourgeona l. Exa mples of suita ble ketones are the ionones, --isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suita ble alcohols are anethol, citronel lol, eugenol, isoeugenol, gera niol, li nalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpine- ol. The hyd roca rbons main ly incl ude the terpenes and balsa ms. However, it is preferred t o use mixtu res of different perfu me com pounds which, together, prod uce an agreea ble pe r- fume. Other suita ble perfume oils are essentia l oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma com ponents. Exa mples are sage oil, ca momile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinna mon leaf oil, li me-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliba num oil, galba num oil, lada num oil and lavendin oil . The following are prefera bly used either indi- vid ually or in the form of mixtures: berga mot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilia l, lyra l, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylci nna maldehyde, gera niol, benzyl acetone, cycla men aldehyde, lina lool, Boisa mbrene Forte, Ambroxa n, indole, hedione, sa ndelice, citrus oil, manda rin oil, ora nge oil, allyla myl glycolate, cycloverta l, lavendi n oil, cla ry oil, damascone, gera nium oil bou rbon, cyclohexyl sa licylate, Vertofix Coeu r, Iso-E-Su per, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldei n gamma, phenylacetic acid, gera nyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romi llat, irotyl and flora mat.

[001 34] DYES

[001 35] Suita ble dyes are any of the su bsta nces suita ble and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for exa mple, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" of the Fa rbstoff- kom mission der Deutschen Forschu ngsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 8 1 t o 106. Exa mples incl ude cochinea l red A (C.I . 16255), patent blue V (C. I. 42051), in- digoti n (C.I . 73015), chlorophyl li n (C.I . 75810), quinoli ne yellow (C. I. 47005), tita niu m dioxide (C.I . 77891), inda nth rene blue RS (C.I . 69800) and madder la ke (C.I . 58000). Lu minol may also be present as a lumi nescent dye. Adva ntageous coloured pigments are for exa mple tita nium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe 20 3 Fe 30 4, FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide. Adva ntageous dyes are for exa mple ca rmine, Berlin blue, chromiu m oxide green, ultra marine blue and/or manga nese violet. [001 36] PREPARATIONS

[001 37] Preferred com positions accordi ng t o the present inventions are selected from the group of prod ucts for treatment, protecting, ca re and clea nsi ng of the skin and/or hair or as a make-u p product, prefera bly as a leave-on product (mea ning that the one or more com- pou nds of form ula ( I) stay on the ski n and/or hai r for a longer period of time, com pared t o rinse-off prod ucts, so that the moisturizi ng and/or anti-agei ng and/or wou nd hea ling promoting action thereof is more pronounced).

[001 38] The form ulations according t o the invention are prefe rably in the form of an emulsion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O/W (oil-i n-water), W/O/W (water-in-oil-i n-water), 0/W/O (oil- in-water-i n-oi l) emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoem ulsion, a sol ution, e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particula r C - acid -C milk, C32 fatty C2 30 esters) or silicone oil, dispersion, suspension, creme, lotion or depending on the production method and ingredients, a gel (includi ng hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propella nt) or a foa m or an impregnating sol ution for cosmetic wipes, a detergent, e.g. soa p, synthetic detergent, liquid wash- ing, shower and bath prepa ration, bath prod uct (ca psu le, oil, t ablet, sa lt, bath sa lt, soa p, etc.), effervescent prepa ration, a skin ca re product such as e.g. an emulsion (as described above), ointment, paste, gel (as descri bed above), oil, balsa m, seru m, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), a mask, a pencil, stick, rol l-on, pump, aerosol (foa ming, non-foa ming or post-foa ming), a deodora nt and/or anti perspira nt, mouthwash and mouth rinse, a foot ca re product (incl uding keratolytic, deodora nt), an insect re pellent, a su nscreen, aftersu n pre paration, a shavi ng prod uct, aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a hair ca re product such as e.g. sha mpoo (includi ng 2-i n-l sha mpoo, anti-da ndruff sha mpoo, baby sha mpoo, sha mpoo for dry sca lps, conce ntrated sha mpoo), conditioner, hai r tonic, hai r water, hai r rinse, styli ng creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion, hair spray, styl- ing aid (e.g. gel or wax), hai r smoothing agent (deta ngli ng agent, relaxer), hair dye such as e.g. tem pora ry direct-dyeing hai r dye, semi-perma nent hair dye, permanent hai r dye, hai r conditioner, hair mousse, eye ca re product, make-up, make-u p remover or baby prod uct.

[001 39] The form ulations according t o the invention are particu la rly prefera bly in the form of an emulsion, in particu la r in the form of a W/O, O/W, W/O/W, 0/W/O emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoem ulsion, a gel (includi ng hyd rogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a sol ution e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid in pa -C acid -C oil, (e.g. pu esters, rticula r C 32 fatty C2 30 esters)) or silicone or a spray mp spray or spray with propella nt).

[001 40] Auxilia ry su bsta nces and additives ca n be incl uded in quantities of 5 t o 99 % b.w., prefera bly 10 t o 80 % b.w., based on the tota l weight of the form ulation . The amounts of cosmetic or dermatologica l auxi lia ry agents and additives and perfume t o be used in each case ca n easily be determined by the person ski lled in the art by si mple tria l and error, depending on the nature of the particu la r product.

[001 4 1] The prepa rations ca n also contain water in a qua ntity of up t o 99 % b.w., prefera bly 5 t o 80 % b.w., based on the tota l weight of the preparation. [00142] INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

[00143] Another object of the present invention refers t o a method for improving skin ten sion encom passi ng the fol lowi ng steps:

(i) providi ng the mixtu re com prisi ng com pounds (a), (b) (c) and optiona lly (d); and

(ii) applyi ng said mixtu re t o human skin, prefera bly over a period of about 5 t o about 10 min utes.

[00144] Fina lly, the invention also encom passes the use of the mixtures for improvi ng ten sion of ski n, incl uding soothing the ski n, red uci ng dee pness and number of wri nkles and an ove rall rejuve nation of the skin, prefera bly withi n a very short of 5 t o 10 minutes after application.

[00145] With rega rd t o preferred embodime nts, preferred com binations, relations and amounts refere nce is made t o the disclosure above which apply for the respective process and use mutatis-mutandis; a repetition is therefore not necessa ry. EXAMPLES

[00146] EXAMPLE 1 Wrinkle and fine lines reduction measurements [00147] The following examples are conducted by a mixture consisting of the compositions as exhibited in Table 1:

[00148] Table 1 Active mixture

* Aqueous mixture comprising glycerin, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol.

[00149] Protocol

[00150] A skin's micro-relief and wrinkle profile was evaluated using 3 dimensional Der- maTop® software for detection of skin cutaneous parameters after 5 min. The composition according to Example A diluted at 5% in water was applied on 21 panellists aged between 45-55 years old and having wrinkles of grades 2 & 3 (medium grade). The application of the placebo (water) and the test mixture was randomized and standardized by a technician on crow's feet area.

[00151] Studied parameters • Ra: the average roughness (in µιη ): a decrease in this parameter characterizes a smoothing effect (first column)

• Rz: the average relief: average of all picks-to-valley heights (second column)

· Stm: volume measurement: mean of the maximum surface height difference - A decrease in one of these parameters (Stm and Rz) characterizes an anti-wrinkle ef fect of the product (third column)

[00152] The results are shown in Figure 1. Figure 1A shows the anti-wrinkle effect on crow's feet. Figures I B and 1C provide photos from a volunteer before and 5 minutes after the application. As one can see after 5 minutes of application a significant and visible decrease of skin roughness and wrinkles appears. [00153] Figure 2 shows illustrative high resolution photography before (2A) and 5 minutes after application (2B). As one can see the skin is visibly smoother.

[00154] 67 % of the 21 panellists felt that their skin was smoother and fine lines and wrin kles appeared t o be less deep. A tensing effect was confirmed by 57 % of the panellists. A sensory profile as confirmed by the panellists is provided in Figure 3 . SYMLIFT™ stands for the mixture of Example A.

[00155] EXAMPLE 2 Sensory evaluation

[00156] The mixture according t o Example A was applied at 10 % t o the skin of 16 expert panellists and the improvement of softness and spreadability was evaluated on a scale from (0) = not t o be detected t o (10) = very high. The results are provided in Table 2; a significant statistical test is p < 0.05.

[00157] Table 2 Sensory evaluation of Mixture A [001 58] FORMU LATION EXAM PLE Fl Visible and instant anti-wrinkle roll-on composition (amounts in % b.w.)

[001 59] Production method

[001 60] Dissolve SymSave® H in water while heati ng up t o 40-50°C, the n disperse Xa ntha n gum in Hydrolite ® 5, and add t o the batch while sti rri ng, until homogeneous. Add ingredi- ent of phase C and then add phase D, while sti rring. Check pH is arou nd 5.5 . The sensory evaluation of the product is depicted in Figure 4A.

[001 6 1] FORMU LATION EXAM PLE F2 Anti-ageing serum (amounts in % b.w.)

[00162] Production method

[00163] Heat phase A and phase C t o 60°C. Disperse phase B into phase A under high shear and add phase C into phase A+B under high shear. Neutralize with sodium hydroxide, and add Simulgel NS. Homogenise with Ultra turrax. Let t o cool down t o 40°C with gentle stirring, and add ingredients of phase F one by one under stirring and then phase G. Check pH is around 5. Viscosity: 401 cP Spindle: 21 / Speed (RPM): 100 / T(°C): 19,2°C / Torque (%): 80,3% / S STR: 372,9 (D/cm 2) / S RATE: 93 (s-1) The sensory evaluation of the product is depicted in Figure 4B.

[00164] FORMULATION EXAMPLE F3 Silky lifting spray (amounts in % b.w.) [001 65] Production method

[001 66] Phase A : Blend ingredients and heat slightly t o 45°C until Sym Mollient ® S and Sym3D ® are melted . Phase C: Blend ingredients while stirri ng. Disperse phase B into phase A under high shea r and add phase C into A+B under high shea r. Add phase D&E successively under sti rring and check pH is 5 .5 pH : 5.7 , Viscosity: 335,7 cP, Spi nd le : 21 / Speed (RP M ): 120 / T(°C) : 21°C / Torq ue (%) : 80,6% / S STR: 373,9 (D/cm 2) / S RATE: 112 (s-1) The sensory eva luation of the product is depicted in Figure 4C. CLAIMS

1. An active mixture, com prisi ng or consisti ng of:

(a) at least one biopolymer;

(b) at least one glycosa minoglyca n;

(d) at least one active selected from the grou p consisting of phenols and/or polyphenols.

2. The mixtu re of Clai m 1, wherei n said biopolymers (com ponent a) are selected from the group consisting of beta-gluca ns and chitosa ns.

3. The mixtu re of Clai m 1, wherei n said glycosa minoglyca ns (com ponent b) are selected from the group consisting of chond roiti n sulfate, dermata n sulfate, kerati n su lfate, hepa rin, hepa rin su lfate, hyalurona n and mixtures thereof.

4 . The mixture of Claim 1, wherein said disaccha rides (com ponent c) are selected from the group consisting of sucrose, lactu lose, lactose, maltose, cellobiose, chitobiose, trehalose and mixtu res thereof.

5. The mixtu re of Clai m 1, wherei n said actives (com ponent d) are selected from the group consisti ng of caffeic acid, cou maric acid, ferulic acid, diferulic acid, sa pona rins, catechins, procya nidins, prodel phinidins and hordenine.

6. The mixture of Claim 1, wherein said active (com ponent d) represents an extract of hordeum vulgare (ba rley).

7. The mixture of Claim 1, further com prising a cosmetica lly accepta ble ca rrier.

8. The mixture of Claim 7, wherein said ca rrier is selected from the group consisting of -C -C -C lka water, C2 4 aliphatic alcohols, C2 4 alkylene glycols, C 12 a nediols, glycerol, oil bodies and thei r mixtures.

9. The mixture of Claim 1 com prisi ng

(a) about 10 t o about 40 % b.w. of at least one biopolymer;

(b) about 1 t o about 15 % b.w. of at least one glycosa minoglyca n;

(d) 0 t o about 5 % b.w. of at least one active selected from the group consisti ng of phenols and/or polyphenols,

on condition that the amou nts add - optiona lly with a cosmetica lly accepta ble ca rrier - t o 100 % b.w.

10. The mixture of Claim 1 com prisi ng

(a) about 10 t o about 40 % b.w. beta-gluca n(s);

(b) about 1 t o about 15 % b.w. hyaluronic acid; (c) about 5 to about 45 % b.w. D-trehalose; and

(d) 0 to about 5 % b.w. extract of hordeum vulgare, on condition that the amounts add - optionally with a cosmetically acceptable carrier - to 100 % b.w.

11. A cosmetic composition comprising the mixture of Claim 1.

12. The composition of Claim 11, comprising the mixture of Claim 1 in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 10 % b.w.

13. The composition of Claim 11, being a skin care and/or sun care composition.

14. A method for preventing or improving tension of skin encompassing the following steps:

(i) providing the mixture of Claim 1; and

(ii) applying said mixture to human skin.

15. The use of the mixture of Claim 1 for improving tension of skin.

International application No PCT/EP2016/056977

A. CLASSIFICATION O F SUBJECT MATTER INV. A61K8/60 A61K8/73 A61Q19/08 A61K8/97 ADD.

According to International Patent Classification (IPC) or to both national classification and IPC

B. FIELDS SEARCHED Minimum documentation searched (classification system followed by classification symbols) A61K A61Q

Documentation searched other than minimum documentation to the extent that such documents are included in the fields searched

Electronic data base consulted during the international search (name of data base and, where practicable, search terms used)

EPO-Internal , WPI Data, CHEM ABS Data

C. DOCUMENTS CONSIDERED TO BE RELEVANT

Category* Citation of document, with indication, where appropriate, of the relevant passages Relevant to claim No.

DATABASE CA I - 4,7 ,8, CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS SERVICE, COLUMBUS, II- 15 OHIO, US; 2 September 2015 (2015-09-02) , "Skin care facial mask wi t h moi sturi z i ng, whi tening and anti -wi nkle effects , and i t s preparati on method" , XP002758410, Database accession no. 163:389113 a st a t - & CN 104 873 436 A (XINJIANG HAI RUISHENG BIO ENGINEERING CO LTD) 2 September 2015 (2015-09-02) c l aims 1 , 2

/ -

X Further documents are listed in the continuation of Box C. See patent family annex.

* Special categories of cited documents : "T" later document published after the international filing date or priority date and not in conflict with the application but cited to understand "A" document defining the general state of the art which is not considered the principle or theory underlying the invention to be of particular relevance "E" earlier application or patent but published on or after the international "X" document of particular relevance; the claimed invention cannot be filing date considered novel or cannot be considered to involve an inventive "L" document which may throw doubts on priority claim(s) orwhich is step when the document is taken alone cited to establish the publication date of another citation or other " document of particular relevance; the claimed invention cannot be special reason (as specified) considered to involve an inventive step when the document is "O" document referring to a n oral disclosure, use, exhibition or other combined with one or more other such documents, such combination means being obvious to a person skilled in the art "P" document published prior to the international filing date but later than the priority date claimed "&" document member of the same patent family

Date of the actual completion of the international search Date of mailing of the international search report

6 June 2016 06/07/2016

Name and mailing address of the ISA/ Authorized officer European Patent Office, P.B. 5818 Patentlaan 2 NL - 2280 HV Rijswijk Tel. (+31-70) 340-2040, Fax: (+31-70) 340-3016 Lenzen Achim International application No PCT/EP2016/056977

C(Continuation). DOCUMENTS CONSIDERED TO BE RELEVANT

Category* Citation of document, with indication, where appropriate, of the relevant passages Relevant to claim No.

X DATABASE CA 1-4,7 ,8, CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS SERVICE, COLUMBUS, 11-15 OHIO, US; 2 January 2013 (2013-01-02) , "Cosmeti c sunscreen hydrogel containi ng tea polyphenol s " , XP002758411, Database accession no. 158: 196259 abstract - & CN 102 846 514 A (HANGZH0U XIA0QING BI0L0G TECHNOLOGY CO LTD) 2 January 2013 (2013-01-02) exampl es 1-7

X DATABASE CA 1-4,7-13 CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS SERVICE, COLUMBUS, OHIO, US; 2 1 October 2015 (2015-10-21) , "One kind of peri pheral nerve repai r membrane and preparati on method thereof" , XP002758412, Database accession no. 164: 14315 abstract - & CN 104 984 391 A (SUZH0U Y0UJUN ENVI RONMENT TECHNOLOGY CO LTD) 2 1 October 2015 (2015-10-21) exampl e 2

X US 2012/121673 Al (SUSAK MI LANKA [CA] ET 1 ,3-8, AL) 17 May 2012 (2012-05-17) 11-15 formul a 2 ; exampl e I I I

X US 2013/122036 Al (DECLERCQ LI EVE [BE] ET 1 ,3-8, AL) 16 May 2013 (2013-05-16) 11-15 exampl e 4

Y EP 2 347 755 A2 (R0VI COSMETICS INT GMBH 1-15 [DE] ) 27 July 2011 (2011-07-27) c l aim 1

Y DATABASE WPI 1-15 Week 201324 Thomson Scienti f i c , London, GB; A N 2013-D93171 XP002758413, "Skin external preparation e.g. cream and mi l ky loti on useful for preventing roughening and agi ng of skin , and masking wrinkl es , compri ses polyphenol mi xture extracted from mal t of barley" , & J P 2013 053126 A 2 1 March 2013 (2013-03-21) abstract International application No Information on patent family members PCT/EP2016/056977

Patent document Publication Patent family Publication cited in search report date member(s) date

CN 104873436 A 02-09-2015 NONE

CN 102846514 A 02-01-2013 NONE

CN 104984391 A 21-10-2015 NONE

US 2012121673 A l 17-05-2012 AU 2010246144 A l s -12--2011 CA 2760575 A l ii--11--2010 CA 2883006 A l ii--11--2010 CA 2883Q27 A l 11--11--2010 EP 2427182 A2 14--03--2012 P 5546062 B2 09--07--2014 P 2012526119 A 25--10--2012 KR 20120004549 A 12--01--2012 US 2011110988 A l 12--05--2011 US 2012121673 A l 17--05--2012 O 2010129445 A2 11--11--2010

US 2013122036 A l 16-05-2013 CA 2839453 A l 10--01--2013 EP 2729156 A2 14--05--2014 P 2014520804 A 25--08--2014 KR 20140025568 A 04--03--2014 US 2013122036 A l 16--05--2013 W0 2013006335 A2 10--01--2013 WO 2013006336 A2 10--01--2013

EP 2347755 A2 27-07-2011 DE 102009001710 A l 23--09--2010 EP 2347755 A2 27--07--2011

JP 2013053126 A 21-03-2013 NONE