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CAPE MAY: NOT JUST a DAY at the BEACH by Demetra M

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CAPE MAY: NOT JUST a DAY at the BEACH by Demetra M FEATURE CAPE MAY: NOT JUST A DAY AT THE BEACH By Demetra M. Pappas ape May is, as a matter of geography, Mad Batter, photo by Jumping Rocks Photography at the tip of the Jersey Shore (but in C all other ways, leaves Snooki and The Situation far behind). Cape May’s beaches so routinely make top ten lists of prettiest, cleanest, and nicest that a lovely day at the beach is axiomatic for day, weekend, and vacationing visitors. Feeling the sun on the shoulders, wriggling the toes in the sand, and watching the waves roll in are all im- portant activities, but there is more to Cape May than a “day at the beach.” As the only city in the US to receive the distinction of being repeatedly named by Better Homes & Gardens and Architecture Magazine as “one of the prettiest painted places,” there are several house-related ac- tivities. In addition to the obvious walks, there are a number of trolley tours that de- part from the centrally located information booth of the pedestrian-friendly Washing- ton Street Mall. Historic District Trolley Tours leave several times daily. For those who enjoy an inside (and in- capemaystage.com) is currently producing sider’s) view of a house, the Emlen Physick Say Goodnight, Gracie, a multimedia tour-de- Estate (1048 Washington Street, www.cape- force presentation of George Burns’ life, maymac.com)) is a winner. This 1879 estate focused upon his personal and professional was rescued from near-certain demolition relationship with collaborator-wife Gracie (for track houses!) and lovingly restored to Allen. Joel Rooks becomes, rather than its original glory. Docents are well-educated merely plays, George Burns. Tickets for The on the house, its occupants, its repatriated Understudy (June 22-July 30) and Steel Magno- artifacts, and its back stories; Mid-Atlantic lias (August 3-September 10) are available Center for the Arts Curator Elan Zingman- individually and by subscription. Fall of- Leith continues to acquire period furniture ferings include The Woolgatherer, a revival of and artifacts, such as a restored dining room Tony winner Red, and This Wonderful Life, formally set for dinner, and library books of adapted for the Christmas season from the the original owner. Tours end in the Car- Capra fi lm. riage House, which shows exhibits, like the A different kind of arts experience awaits current “Remembering South Cape May: visitors to Congress Hall’s Sea Spa (205 The Jersey Shore Town that Vanished into Perry Street, 609-884-6543, www. Con- the Sea,” created by guest curator Robert gresshall.com), across from the oceanfront. Kenselaar. Another way to see the Physick The shellac manicure (also known as a uv Estate is to attend one of the productions gel manicure) and shellac pedicure promise mounted, in situ, by Actors Offstage, such (and deliver) nails that last over two weeks as Ray Crew’s Finding Faith. For those truly with narry a chip, even on those most hard committed to a “ghostly” experience, there on their mani-pedis. Facials have whimsi- is also a Ghosts of Cape May trolley tour cal names such as “the long weekend,” (departing from the Washington Street “the change of scenery,” and the bi-parti- Mall) of haunted properties on Saturdays san “running for Congress.” One particu- at 9 pm, which are conducted by Actor larly nice feature of the treatments is that Offstage. facialists customize and explain the treat- The Cape May Stage, housed at the Rob- ments and then allow recipients to choose Emlen Physick Estate, photo courtesy of Mid- Atlantic Center for the Arts & Humanities ert Shackleton Playhouse (corner of Bank between the standard treatment and a (MAC) and Lafayette Streets, 609-884-1341, www. customized version. Continued on Page 87 Resident July 2011 • 85 Cape May Continued from Page 85 Carriage House Tearoom & Cafe, courtesy of Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts & Humanities (MAC) Perhaps the most prominent activity, on Avenue, 609-884-8811, www.unionpark- green approach to renovations. Originally or off the beach, is enjoying life as a culi- diningroom.com) in the historic Hotel Ma- built in 1882 as a seaside family escape, the nary tourist in Cape May, a destination comber is literally across the road from the hotel gives a new meaning to the phrase dining location. The Washington Inn (801 Atlantic Ocean. Its elegant dining rooms “bed and breakfast,” with the sumptuous of- Washington Street, 609-884-5697, wash- (try to get a table in the library!) set a lovely ferings at the Mad Batter. The impeccably ingtoninn.com), in the heart of the Cape stage for Chef John Schatz’ cuisine. Ap- fresh individual fruit bowl could easily grace May Historic District, was originally built petizers focus on the ocean’s offerings, with a breakfast nook for a family of four, and the in 1840 as a plantation home. The Wash- mixed Cape May Salts and Beau Soleil Oys- namesake batters result in pancake servings ington Inn’s fi ve unique dining rooms range ters (accompanied by a chili lime sauce and that look like a three-story building, yet are from summer patio dining to fi reside tables. a cocktail sauce), and may be accompanied fl uffy throughout. The porch, popular with Dining at the Washington Inn is an expe- by a genial wait staff tutorial upon request. locals as well as hotel guests, has a thriving rience, as well as a meal. Appetizers include The new American menu also has daily spe- social scene and also has a rotating display bright and beautiful salads, and there are cials, such as arctic char over lobster and of local art (currently Debbie Campaniel- stand outs, such as the rock shrimp and lob- ricotta gnocchi, with sautéed edamame, lo’s whimsical offerings), available for pur- ster bisque, replete with both, and enhanced fi nished with basil oil, which bring out the chase. For those who want their morning to by more than a drop of brandy. Salads are subtleties of the palate. start off at the beach, breakfast at Harry’s bright and colorful, with creative dressings Oyster fans might also want to visit Al- Ocean Bar and Grille (1025 Beach Avenue, (such as buttermilk blue for the fi eld green athea’s at the Inn of Cape May (7 Ocean 609-88HARRY, www.harryscapemay.com) salad with beets, red onions and toasted Street, 609-884-5555, www.innofcapemay. is a family-run neighborhood place that has pecans). Entrees quite reasonably focus on com). This casual American oceanfront large portions of comfort food served by seafood, with one diner, a self-proclaimed space offers a special spa menu for those incredibly friendly wait staff, in the dining salmon expert, pronouncing the planca who may want to balance the namesake room or along the beach-front terrace. salmon (served with spring vegetables, hand oysters (baked with spinach, white whine, mashed creamer potatoes, and a dill beurre garlic, black pepper, and pecorino Romano blanc) the best salmon she had ever eaten. cheese) with a light entrée and also has a Inn of Cape May, photo by Barry A. Burke Featured dishes such as the pan-seared tuna “fi rst seating” menu that offers smaller por- steak with “fennel pollen,” tender caramel- tions for diners concerned about reducing ized fennel risotto and a sundried tomato larger waistlines (or maintaining smaller vinaigrette lure diners from the splendid ones). There are a number of nice touches seafood, meat, and fowl offerings (the duck at Alathea’s, but the single most fun one is cassoulet works a treat). Consider inviting that bread comes with a twice-baked head Mario, the wine steward, to make a selec- of garlic, as well as olive oil, inviting diners tion from the superb cellar (the pinot noir to make their own garlic bread to taste. marimar Torres Sonoma 08 was a lovely Whether you spend your time on or off introduction to this richly fl avored wine). the beach at Cape May, a great bed and Have at least one bite of dessert – and lis- breakfast is the perfect way to anchor a visit. ten attentively to seasonal delights, such Pam Huber and Mark Kulkowitz run the as strawberry shortcake (actually a biscuit) delightful Carroll Villa Hotel (19 Jackson with lightly fl uffy whipped cream. Street, 609-884-9719, www.carollvilla.com), Union Park Dining Room (727 Beach a National Landmark (circa 1882) with a Resident July 2011 • 87.
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