The Mountaineer Volume Four Nineteen-Eleven
Pd/1,h,tl 61 The Mountaineers Seanle. Washtn11on
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Copyright 1911 The Mountaineers
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Pa[!, GrC'eting ...... 1-l011omblc Jamcs Bryer ...... l\otes on l\Jt. :\dams ;md St. Helens.Professor Henry L1111dcs ...... 5 Mt. Adams ...... Professor Edmond S. Mcany...... 13 :\It. Adams Onting of 191 I...... Jliss Wi11011a Railcy ...... 15 ]\fountain Lupine ...... Professor l:dmond S. M ,any..... 25 Ascent of :\It. Hood hy Mountaineers ..Clwrlcs S. Gl,·aso11 26 l\kany ...... ,1. H. Albcrtso11 ...... 30 Climhs in the Snuthern Selkirks...... /::dward IV. Harnden...... 31 Benediction of the l\Iountains...... R,-.•. Frcdcrick T. 1Vcbb...... 40 The Future of the Rainier !\ational Park ...... Asa/,'c/ Curtis ...... 42 All !\ight on an Active Volcano...... C/rnr/cs Albertson ...... 44 With the Alpine Cluh of Canada ...... P. M. McGregor...... 51 The Olympk National l\fonument...... Edmond S. Meany...... 54 :\'otes of Other Clnhs ...... 60 Notes ...... 64 Resclutions ...... 67 Correspondence ...... : ...... 69 Officers and Directors 72 Reports- Secretary ...... 72 Treasurer ...... 73 Outing Committee ...... 74 Local \Valks Committee ...... 75 Schedule of Local Walks ...... 76
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l\lt. Adams ...... Plair I 'vVhite Bark Pine ( Pinus Contorta) ...... Plate [/ Snow 11ridge at Killing Creek ...... Plair Ill Pack Train Crossing Lava Glader on Trip :,.;'orth... .Plat,· JV In the Goat Reeks ...... Pla t,· r Mt. Hood ...... Plair Fl Summit of Mt. Hood ...... Plair VII Elliot Glacier ( Mt. Hood) ...... Plair VIII Ice Columns on Tohy Glacier ...... Plair IX Starbird Glacier ...... Plair x :'.\It. Rainier from Indian Henry's Hunting Ground...... Plair XI l\lt. Rainier Road ...... Plair XII Mt. Rainier from Spray Park ...... Plair XIII Asama Yama from Karui?.awa ...... Plair XIV Mt. Biddle with Glacier and Lake McArthur ...... Plate xv Mt. Huher, Wiwaxy Peaks...... Plair XF/ View from side of Mt. Daly showing Sherbrooke Meadows ...... Plair XVII Everett Mountaineers on l\lt. Pikhuck ...... Plair XFIII Mountaineers on :'.\It. Adams ...... Plair XIX Ridge ahove Shoe Lake ...... Plair xx Sheep in a Mountain l\fradow ...... Plair XX! .l\lt. Hood ...... Plate XX.fl Mountaineers in Goat Rocks ...... Plair XX/II Snow Cornice above Klickitat Glacier, .l\lt. Adams...... Plate XXIV Indian Tepee Camp ...... Plate xxr· Mountaineers on a Steep Slope of Mt. Adams.... .Plate XXVI On the Road in Rainier Xational Park...... P/alr XXV/1
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Hood appears 11s a very near neigh bor. In a little while, when the beautiful dome of Hood ap pears at its ht·st, one is delighted to find that in the same view Jeffr·rson has come prominently into the range of vision, to the left of Hood and 50 miles beyond. A little later, when thf• del'JWr hazP of the lowlands is left behind, and more dis tant views become possib le, the Sisters are seen just to the left of Jcffersm1 and rwarly 40 llliles farther south. From the sum mit of Adallls the cone of St. Ifoh,ns apJwars to fine advantage in its s�·,nmetry and rPg-nlarity. It seems near enough to make one feel that tw eonld almost hit it with a snow-b all. Some of the detnils of its small irlaciPrs and its late lava flows can be made out with the aid of a field irlass. Rainier, heavier snow-eapped than the others. is conspicuous 50 miles away to ward the northern horizon. Behn•t'n Adams and Rainier the maze of mountains is so complex that the eye tires in its effort to untanirle 1hP 11111ltitnde of peaks and ridg-es and decipher the leading drainage lines. Looking 1�astward the ridges and low divides melt away in a receding plain that is finally lost m the haze of the far distant horizon. Although somewhat removed from the main arteries of travel. Adams yet lit's fairly convcniPnt for anyone who wonld make its closP acquaintance. It is occasionally visited by parties with pack horses coming- from the northward, or more often from the Y11kima valley which lies to the eastward. A trail which has just b'-:'en completed makes it accessible from the westward, up the Lewis River from the neighb orhood of St. Helens. The most common direction of approach is from the south. following the White Salmon valley for its entire length. The town of White Salmon, where the stream of that name joins the Colmnb ia, is easily accessib le by either boat or train. A good road, traversed daily by stag-es and antomob iles, extends for 29 miles up the White Salmon valley to Gnler. At Guler there is a good hotel where one m'ly stop while exploring the lava con<.>s and the eonntry ab out the foot of the mountain, or while making his plans for the mountain aseent. From Guler Digitized by Google The ill 01111tai11ccr 7 a trail 14 miles or so in length leads to a tPmporary camp on the southern slope of the mountain. The 1rail all the way passes through an open forest of pine and tamarack, and rises to a height of about 4000 feet where a camp for the night is pitched by one of the ice-cold springs that issues from the mountain side. The ascent of Adams is probably easiest made from the south. From a temporary cHrnpat 4000 feet the trip to the top and bHck is readily made in a day. The timber line is passed at about 6000 feet and the foot of the first g-lacier is reached at 7500 feet. It is possible to go snbstHntially all of the way Photograph by A. H. Denman INTERIOR OF LAV A CA VF. over the rocks alone. or one can go rnnch of the way over the snow fields imd glaciers if he likPs. The hare slopes are made up almost exclusively of broken rock which have been pro duced by glaciers or by the disrupting effects of extreme tem peratures. The angular rock fragments are piled at steep angles and they often give way under a person's weight, so that some caution is necessary in picking the proper route. On the whole l\It. AdHms offers practically no serious ohstaclt>s to the climber and its ascent is made with as much or more eas� and safety than is true of any other of our great sno" caps. Digitized by Google II i II T It c :\lo u ta ccr To tlw l!l'Oloi.:ist ,\SP,darnsl is of prime inkrt•st. It stands as a grPat voleann in a of vuleanism. The volcanic firps at its bas(' ha,·e hePn lil!hh·d so oftt,11 that a great cone has been huilt up whieh 1i,1s !wen but little ra,·agnl h.v tiuw. The eone is compound in eharaet1•r and the Jattr t• rnptions han· not > oeeurrPd fro111 tlw top but from opt•ning-s npon difft• rent sides > of the 111ou11tai11. 011P of the last outbrt Hks took plaee on > tlw sonth sidt• of tlw cont within abont 4000 ft'Pt of the top. •\ g-rPal tlow. or :�t l'il's nf tlows. of lava pourP Digitized by Google The M 01111tai11cer The lava eruptions from Adams have been independent of the gTl'at basalt flows which characteriZl' tlw country to 1 he eastw11rd. The l11tter lrnve come up throug-h g-reat fissures rather than throug-h tuhes or other circular opt>nings. Such a method of orig-in g-ives rist> to g-rt>at sheets which are piled horizontally one upon another. This horizontal position is al ways retained unless subsequently the sheets are arched and folded in the general proeess of mountain building. Ever since the first explorers traversPd the upper White Salmon valley, tlw lava cones ahout Trout Lake and Guler h11ve been known. They occur for several rnile.'l lengthwise of thP valley and some h11ve heen produced in one of the later l11 rn flows which has eome from the south sidt• of the great 111ou11t a in. The h iid1ways pnss above them and the traveler is made aware of their presence beneath him by the deep rumbling soun Digitized by Google 10 Tiu: .lf01111t ai11ecr the new lava was thickest and where radiation would be slow est. In the process of cooling there would come a time when the lav11 occupying an old ravine would cool and stick to the walls, as well as form an arch of cooled and hardened rock extending from one wttll of the ravine to the other. The cen tral rnnss of lava, yet plastic enough to flow, would continue to rnon> on, ll•aving in its wake a long, winding, irregular tube or cylindrical cav<'rn now known as a lava cave. It is easily Sl'<'n that caves prodnc<'d in this way would vary greatly in position, ."h!!JW, P111l sizt>. dependinir upon the varying pecu liarities of the former valleys. Some of the caves are so near the surfaee that freezing temperatures prevail in them during the winter and i<•e formed at such times may not all be melted during the following summer. The water in the winter some times scPps through the roof and i<:icles form like those on the eaves of a house. The icicles may grow to gi'.mt proportions and extend to the tloor, assmning- shapC's like the larger stalac tites and stalagmites in lilllestone caves. ThP glaeiPrs on Adams look like pigruies when compared with those Oil Rainier. or even Buker. The gre!lt snow-fi<.'lds or feeding grounds at the top are not large, hence the glaciers have no great h•ngf h. Only the largest reach the foot of the monntain. whilC' the others are perehed upon the flanks of the cone. That the glaciers W<.'re once of much greater length is readily shown by th<' old terminal nnd recessional moraines that now lie far bl',VOll(l th<' present melting points. Mt. St. lfrlens St. H!'lens is 1 he westernmost and the lowest of the five great volcanoPs of ·w ashington. It is pasily visible from many view points among the lowlands that extend from the southern tip of Puget Sound to the Columbia River. It has a cone of rare syrnllll'try and beauty. and is always dazzling snow-white, except for a few weeks at the close of summer. There are no very high mountains in its vicinity and the snow-locks of St. Helens always afford a striking contrast to the dark green rnountain ridges which fit like a picture frame around it. The two common routes of ascent of the mountain are up the southern and northern slopes. The southern slope is not qn ite so strep as the northern one but the route is a little Digitized by Google The M ountai11eer 11 longer. In ascending from the south it is necessary to go up the North Fork of Lewis river to a point opposite the moun tain and then travel for several miles before beginning the actual ascent. The great majority of visitors to the mountain leave the railway at Castle Rock and go by a good highway 46 miles to a camp at Spirit Lake. The trip may be made by team in a day, or by an automob ile in a shorter time. During the summer good accommodations may be had at Spirit Lake, which is at the very foot of the mountain on the north side. In makini,r the ascent from Spirit Lake the trail le11ds through the forest for three miles, until the real foot of the mountain is reached, which coincidl.'s rather closely with the timb er line. In other words the sparse growth of timb er fails ab out the point where the steep climb ing begins. The park-like nature of the forest. as timb erline is approached, gives a touch of rare beauty to the region. A circuit of the whole 1Uo1111tain at ab out ti1Ub erline or II little below looks very inviting and could prob ab ly be made without much diffi culty. St. Helens in most respects is a typical volcano. and it affords an excellent opportunity to see and study vulcanism. Its eruptions seem to have all been approximately from one opening and hence the symmetry of the cone is conspicuous. There are many evidences of very late eruptions and erosion has made but little progress in the destruction of the mountain. The erupted matter seems to be confined almost wholly to two classes of material ; viz., lava and pumice. The lava is far and away in excl.'ssover the pumice and makes up the great bulk of the cone. The lava rock is mainly andesite. with occasionally some basalt. The andesite mmally contains some small crystals and varies in color from gray to red. The basalt is always black, except for the small white crystttls of feldspar which may often be seen with the naked eye. It was not until late in the history of the volcano that explosive ac tion gave rise to large amounts of pumice which were ejected from the crater. At the pl'l'sent time the northern slopes of St. Helens are covered with fragments of pumice which have ac cumulated to the depth of many feet. In asct'nding the moun tain on this side the route for much of the way is over the soft pumice rock which rnakl'S the climb ing very lab orious. In the ejection of the pumice much of it was thrown high in the air Digitized by Google 12 The .\ /01111tai11ca and 1·arriP1l hy tlw willds to points rather far removed from the mo1111tain. It ha,; hr1•n fo1111 Digitized by Google The JI 01111tai11ccr MOUNT ADAMS EDMOND s. MEANY I Hon, solid, broad, and buttressed th)l base of roe/es doth rest On earth's great primal platform beneath the sands and cla)ls, To hold secure th)l shoulders, th)l high and gleaming crest, Serene in storm or sunshine through Time's eternal da31s! Wild winds ma)l whirl, Cold snowdrifts swirl, And thunders hurl Their blazing spears lo rend and blast; Th31 sides ma)l shake, The wide plains quake, But, lo ! th)l deep-set granite holds thee firm and fast. ll These rock-hewn caverns, Th31 vaulted taverns, Where Arctic sprites in revels hover! Wee knight ma)l prance With lifted lance, His rival drive to darkling cover, And then perchance, In languid dance, Demure/31 seeks a frost caf'lled gem for elfin lover. Digitized by Google The .\fo1111tai11ccr III Thy la�es, thy flon,er-stren,n gardens, all lead lo fields of snon,, Lead up until n,e listen for star-led singing choir. We pause on pendent glacier, a river's frozen flan,, Or climb on rigid lava, on hardened ancient fire. Ah, transcendent glon, On ice, on ancient fire! Who n,ould dare to measure Our mountain's lavish treasure, When fingers, giant fingers, aye point us high'!r, higher ;, IV Attained at last thy summit, thy cron,n above the cloud; We stand in an,e; Thy altar's lan, Condemns the soul that n,ill not still, With spirit bon,ed, H on,ever proud, And let Cod's glory every trembling fibre thriil. EDMOND s. MEANY. Written on Mt. Adams outing at eamp Digitized by Google Plate /1/. Photograph bt Fred Q. Gorton KILLING CREEK AND SNOW BRIDGE. THE ASCENT OF ::I-IT. ADAMS WAS MADE FROM THIS CAMP. Digitized by Google Th e ill 01111tai11ur TIIE :\fT. ADAMS OUTIKG OJ1' 1911 ,v ,NoNA BA1LF.Y To walk from :.\It. Rain i1•r to t lw l'oh1111 hia rin• r, one t hird the dist1111<'P ,1cross the �tat<' of \V ashingto11. nlong the grent diYidl' betWP<'n the Pastt'rn and ,,·1•skrn st>etions, and to s1·alc the S<'COIHI hig-hPst pt>ak in the state, was the ob ject the :.\lonntairwcrs had set heforp them for the s 11 111 Ill e r o f 1911. To do this requirt>d twenty one tla�·s of tra Yl'I, and sixtPl'll diff'l•r ent camps scat terP Digitized by Google Tire .\I01t11tai 11ccr It led through the great spectral forest, the wide tab le-land, when' onee a mighty living forest stood. but now there are only silvery trunks and ghost-like arms with dust and ashes under neath, a region well-niid1t majestic in its dt•sol!!tion ; or through the open forest of the yellow pine and larch, with the straw berry pntelws in the l,!l'ass, over a forest-grown lava tlow until it dropped down between the Inst gr<'en hills, along the last clear trout strealll to the rolling waters of the Columb ia. And the camps were quite as varied as the trails, now b<'side a glacial river, tlwn along a crystal stream. in among the fallen timb er, in the flowers, under trees. or in the open, hy a lnkl' or near a hilltop. wlwrc no man had camped before us. where th<' Indian had his tepee. or thP rang<'r and the ranelwr built a cab in and then left it. The early part of tht' trip led east in tht' upper p Digitized by Google The M ou11tai11ecr 17 area, ab out five square miles, a park-like country covered with grass and flowers and clumps of firs and many a little lake left by the melting snow banks. Here Mr. Bennett, who had left the pack train some days earlier to scout the trip from Goat Rock to the pass, met us, and our company of sixty-four wa.q complete. Here too, began that fine st>ries of views. From every vantage point the eye turned back to 1\H. Rainier rising in radiant majesty to the north ; the higher we climb ed the higher rose the mountain, the more mighty its proportions. The Tatoosh range shrank to foot hills, the Sluiskins scarcely equalled them. From west of Paradise valley and the Nisqnally glaciPr we could see across the Cowlitz to little Tahoma and the White glacier, and could trace on the skyline very nearly the course the Mountaineers took in 1909, while the regular tourist route to the summit lay exposed as on a map. Soon Mt. Adams in the other direction began to lift its great white dome ab ove Old Snowy and the Goat Rocks and when we reached the ridge of Hogb ack :.\fountain three days later the shining cone of St. Ht>lens stood forth in the west, and from that time on we traveled within a vast triangle marked at its corners by three to,vering isolated peaks. For fourteen days we walked and camped at an average elevation of one mile ab ove the sea. At Cowlitz Pass we turned directly south. Thus far the trail had been clear, a mere introduction to the journey, but of the sixty miles between the pass and Mt. Adams nearly forty miles lay through pathless country and was covered by sending men ahead to scout and blaze the way, for the trails shown on the map were either fragmentary or had become ob literated. Twice we were allowed an unexpected day of rest, once at }Iilridge Creek and once at Shoe Lake, partly to give time for careful trail work, and partly owing to the serious illness of Paul Kuhnhausen, one of the packers. For six days he lay beside the stream at 1\Iilridge Creek protected by a tent of fir boughs. and nursed by ,v illing hands, for men of the party stayed behind and watched beside him until friends came with Dr. La Motte, our comrade of the earlier part of the trip. Then the sick man was carried out on a stretcher to his brother's home at Lewis and later made a complete re covery. Digitized by Google The JI 01111ta111crr It was up-hill work from )filridge Creek to the Hogback, but once up, the lwst of all the trip str<>tched out before us. For the first timl' the great trhnglt-' of peaks became colllplete an Digitized by Google The M 01111tai11ccr 19 side by a glacial torrent dashing out from the gorge of a miniature box canyon. little frequented spot it appeared to be. Before we left, by unanimous vote and with much en A thusiasm, it w11s named :\lcColl Basin, 11fter our new Scotch friend who had led us to it. \V e Wt're now on the north slo1w of Goat Rocks and. to reach the pass ab ove. tht' horst>s would have to cross a glacit•r, so volunteers were again called for to lead them. They took a somewhat different route from the rest of the party and at noon as we lunched on an opposite hillside we saw in the Photograph by Carlyle Ellis :McCOLL"S BASIN distance the long thin line of animals and their h>aders wind ing tlwir zig-zag course now up along tlw side of Tieton gin· ciPr, then hack and forth on a seemingly perpendicular monn· tain side. Sometimes tht>y would stop for snch a long time that we feared the trail had provt>d too 1hngProu.s, hut again creep ing slowly on tlwy were lost to vit•w over the pass befon• the l't'st of tht> party well upon till' snow slopt'. Boots h,id fortunatt>ly been W<'llWt'rt' calkPd tht> night before, for the slope was steep and steps had to he madt> carefully. In conqnny formation with Leadn Belt alwad. a lieutt>nnnt in front of e,H'h company of eight or nint> and a captain behind to watch and give instrul'tions. we moved slowly across the widP snow-field Digitized by Google The Jfo1111tai11ccr with the str8nge 1·o<>ky pinnacles 11 bove. the smooth, brilliantly colorPd !-;lopl'S of Tit•ton l'Pak ahr·1d. and the vallry dropping strrp away below. The pass reached at 7000 feet, another fieid of soft snow in whif'h we sank knl'e-dPPp took us into the valley of the Sonth Fork of the Tieton 1111d we began to look for �nrprist> Lake. which we Wl're told was to be onr camping g-round for thP nig-ht. P(•rhaps th<•re is a Surprise Lake, hut our surprise was to comr suddenly, near dnsk, upon a camp firP with :.\lr. Carr lwsi,fo it and a bountiful hot dinner, to whif'h W(' did sJW('dy trib ute. stopping not to remove grease pa int. hlack. whih>, or red. IforP. on a bleak hillside, a place wherP only shet'p could find subsistence. was the cache of six tf'PII hundrPd po111Hls of food left there a few weeks earlier h�· the packers. A steep climb of eight hundred f<'et brought us to a ridge onrlooking- the 111ag11ific('nt cir,1ne at the head of the Klickitat. Skirting this we found ours(•lves again below the sharp scaling spirt•s of the Goat Roeks. This passing of the sonth side and tlw <'limb tlw day lwfore on th<> north furnished our only close acquaintance with this intPresting group of mountains, a region littl<' visitPd and well worth a s11mmer's onting-. As we lunched on till' rocks before crossing to western slopes near Cispns Pass :.\Jr. Bertschi. forest rang-Pr of that district. met us anrl for four days was om friend and adviser. guiding by shorter routes to the i:rrt>at mountain. through the region of the ghost trees. Among thl'm 11 little spring like an oasis in the desert furnished site for a ranger's cab in known as Short Trail Camp and here we spent the night. :--:ext camp was at the Indian tl'JH'P on the vast tab le-la11cl that slopes from Adams on the north and \\"t•st. Herl' thP Indian, perhaps for ages, has camped in huckleh<'rry season beside a clear, cold stream under the vny shadow of the mountain. On the fiftPenth day at noon, we reached the mountain camp, a typical little 111Padow-hasin on Killing Creek on the north sidP of )It. Adams at 6000 feet. Ab ove was the lava ridge on which WP were to climb lwtween the Adams and the Lava glaciers. The commissary stream came leaping down in white spray under a thin snow-hridge, turned a right angle and lh shed on to th<' rnlleys. On rvt>ry hand were tiny lakelets furni-;hing fine lanrnlry and swimming pools. Trees fringed Digitized by Google The Mo1111tai11rcr 21 the !!lnde except towards the mountain. where snow banks lined the basin rim. a sitl' that rivalled Buck Crt>Pk Pass. the permaiwnt camp of the rn1wil•r P<:>ak outing. Tlw afternoon was s1wnt in prt>parntions for th<:> loll!! antiripatt>d cirrus. tlw stlqwndons 1-qw<•tacle that fornwd thP climnx of thl:' fun of camp-firp progrnms. 'l'hP t>VPning t'nh'r tainrnents of this outing somewhat rurtail<•d !weans<:> of length of mareh and hrk Wl'of l'l'tin u' in camp. but who that heard them will ever forgPt th<:> taln; that were told, the instrnctive Photograph by Frt•d Q. Gorton CAMP IN THE GHOST FOREST talks on photographs and stars. the history. the l<:>gends, and the Vl:'l'St•s of onr prl:'sident, the orchestra of onr musical brethren. the song-s that shortened the miles or relievl:'d a mo ment of perplexity ! Every Sunday there Wllsa lwnntifnl, rest ful service of worship with pulpit and sounding boud of alpine firs and pews on grassy slopes. It was decided when the climb was made to break camp at Killing Creek. send all supplies and dunnage by pack train around the western flankwith any who did not care to go with the climbers over the mountain. On Monday, July 31, the rising call sounded before daylight and with hasty packing of dunnage and still hastier hreakfost the whistle blew and fifty- Digitized by Google Th e :\! 01111tai11ccr two peoplP lint>d up ready for the start. At four-fifty we marched ont of camp. In nine hours and twenty minutes we stood on thP summit of )lt. Adams, 12.307 feet ab ove the sea. ):o difficulties were encountered at any point. For nearly five thousand fet>t tht> climb was on lava rock affording good foot ing, tlwn almost a mile across II snow-field of e·is,Y grad P to within three hundred feet of the top where the snow piled steep and dome-like. The day was clear onl,,· in the upper regions. Below, a smoky haz<' filled all the valleys and hid tlw lt>sst>r 1waks. Tlw eorws of :\It. Rainier and )It. St. Hel<>ns WPre clear ab ove it all day, and when tlw top was reached :\Jt. Hood appenred in the southern ht>avens, a while peak with no apparent base upon the earth. The time on top was short. Aftt0r the usual picture-taking by co111paniPs and groups, the tiag was unfurled and one verse of America sung- and with a circle around the east end to look down on th(• head of the great Klickitat Digitized by Google Plate XXV. Photograph by Chnrl•·s Albertson INDIAN TEPEE CAMP Plate XXVI. ...f· Photogrnph by Chari .. � Albertson MO{'XTAINEERS OX A STEEP SI.OPE AROl'T FIFTY FEET BELOW THE SUMMIT OF MT. ,\ J>A:\IS Digitized by Google l'lat.: JV. Photograph by H. B. HINMAN FIRST BASIN IN GOAT ROCKS AFTER LEA YING McCOLL"S BASIN Plate V. Photograph by C. R. Corey THE PACK TRAIN CROSSING LA\",\ GLACIF.R ON TRIP NORTH. Digitized by Google Th e M 01111tai11err 23 The following day :"\Tiss Lulie i'\ettleton, :\Ir. Gorton and J[r. Bennett made a second climb of the mountain, leaving Jforrison Creek camp at four fifty-five,foll owing the even snow slopes of the south side and rPaching the summit at eleven. Tlwy spent two hours on top. then coasting most of the w'ly, came down more than ffre thousand feet in forty-five minutes, returned to our camp of the night before for an hour's r<•st and joined the main party at Trout Lake thirteen miles farther on, <'Oming in just as c11111p-fire was over. Camp was three miles out from the s<•ttlement at Trout Lak<'. in a beautiful grovP of pine and lareh in the Jav1 cave reg-ion l'he largest cave visited appeared from the surface as a g1·pat nole in a heap of rocks. Two laddns INl down into it and then with the help of pitch pine knots. we follom•d over sharp rocks a virnltPd passage widP and hig-h for several hun clred feet to where it branched into smaller archways. This region is full of caves which ,11•e111 lik<• great hubb ies in a stream of lava that once tlowed down from Jit. Aciams to the Columb ia river. In the vicinity of our c11mp another smaller cave was found and explored and it was said two hundred others had been counted. So numerous are they and their opening-s so hiddPn in the grass and rocks that a horsehack ridn at night is in dang-n. Wati>r has seeped into ia.omeand frozen into great pipe-organ colnnms or stalactites and stalagmites of ice that the hi>at of summer never o,·ercomes. The trail from the ice eave to Oklahoma rang-n's station. where the next night's halt was made, wc1s one rec·Pntly built and led across a ridge into the vc1lley of thc Little White Sal mon through heantiful forests of white pine and fir. The milder character of the country made the trip of the last few days seem more like local walks than the real mountaineering of the summer's outing. By this time, too, our company was much reduced because a numb er had gone home early from Trout Lake. The lc1st day the trail wi Digitized by Google Tlzc Jfo1111tai11ccr and the next day a 1m1rvelous ride on its waters, through the loeks. p11st tlw rapids. past the hridg-e of the gods, and the 1111111t•runs cascnt!Ps, for111ed a fitting- elinrnx to a most success. ful 011ti11g". l\l EMBERS OF THE PARTY *H. V. Abel, Lieut. Co. E t•Nancy E. Jones t•Chas. Albertson, Member of Staff •Emil Krahnen, Lieut. Co. C t•E. W. Allen, Capt. Co. A Dr. La Motte (to Lewis only) Bernice E. Balley Mrs. La Motte (to Lewis only) *Winona Bailey • Adna W. Leonard, D. D. t•H. May Baptie Anna Llverson •Katherine Bathurst t•Lydla E. Lovering *H. C. Belt, Leader "Winifred MacFarland •Mrs. H. C. Belt Vida Mathews •A. H. Brackett, Capt. Co. D •Prof. E. S. Meany t••Pror. H. B. Bennett, Member of •Prof. R. E. Moritz Statr t•Lulle :S-ettleton •Hazel Burroughs Anna Newman •Crissie Cameron *Mabel Odell tLlnda M. Coleman •Mary Paschall t•Prot. C. R. Corey, Lieut. Co. B Pror. Otto Patzer *Fidelia Davis •Roger Payne • A. H. Denman Frank Preston L. Mabel Dufford •Stella Scholes •Carlyle Ellis •Josephine Scholes •Helen Ericson tAlma Shurtz H. A. Fuller *A. Hermine Stauber •Mabel Furry t•Gertrude I. Streator t•Chas. S. Gleason, Capt. Co. B •E. K. Trio], Lieut. Co. D •Ruth Gleason •R. Weller •w. H. Gorham, Capt. Co. F *H. L. Willis, Capt. Co. C •Kathleen Gorham Mrs. H. L. Willis t••F. Q. Gorton, Member of Statr Margaret Willis *R. J. Hageman, Lieut. Co. F •H. E. Wilson t•Mary L. Hard t•Clara A. Worthington *H. H. Hastings, Jr., Lieut. Co. A •Geo. E. Wright, Member or Staff •or. H. B. Hinman, Capt. Co. E Dr. Martha Wyman *Mrs. H. B. Hinman tRobert Carr, Cher •Evelyn Irish •w. C. Scroll, Assistant *Edith Jackson •Crawford Allen, Assistant •Jndl<'ates asC'ent of Mt. Adams. tlndlcates ascent of Mt. Hood. Digitized by Google Th e .\!01 111ta111ccr Photograph by Chas. S. Gleason ON THE SC:MMIT MOUNTAIN LUPINE EDMOND S. MEANY Blue of the sea, blue of the sh,, Blue of the glacier's deep ! 0, n,ine of the niinds n,here free eagles fly, I come lo thy home, blue lupine, I leap. /3lue of the sea, blue of the sty, Blue of the glacier's deep ! 0, flon,ers n,here the snonis carressingly lie Fer aye n,ith the stars companionship teep. Digit,zed by Google 21i The ,U01111tai11ccr AN ASCENT OF .MT. HOOD BY MOUNTAINEERS CHARLES S. GLEASO� The prospectus of 1he l\fountai,wers' annual outing for Ell 1 to '.\lt. Adarm,, tht' Uoat Rocks. and the Columbia river stat(,(! that the company would embark for the trip down the river at a point nearly opposite Ilnod Rivt'r, the starting point for climhing '.\It. Hood, and that a party might be organized for that purpose. The thought of climbing two mountains, each over 11,000 feet high, iu mw sC'ason was fascinating. Along the trail and around c11111p-firrs from Ashford to Killing Creek camp on tlll' shoulder of '.\lt. Adams. eager questions were heard con tlw ct>rning the length and difficulty of the climb. The vims was working. When the summit of '.\It. Adams was r(•ached and the eyPs sweeping- the horizon above the clouds that filled the valJl,ys. beheld in the north the massive pile of Rainier and in the Wl'st the rounded cone of St. Helens and. turning south and looking- across fifty miles of rolling vapor. rested upon the sh11 rp cross of Oregcm 's pride, l\It. Hood itself, the disease bl.'came epidl.'mic. By the time the company reached the Columbia a party of eighteen. thirt<>cn of whom had climbed l\Jt. Adams, was organizl'd for the :'.\Jt. Hood trip. A leader was chosen, a com missary and a transportation committee selected, Carr engaged to do th<> cooking, and funds collected pro rata and placed in the hands of a treasurl.'r to make the paying of bills as painless as possible. The transportntion committee went to Hood River on the bont Friday afternoon, August 4, to find a camping place and nrrang<> for a boat to meet the )forth Bank train at Underwood. Aft<>r dinner the last camp-fire was held, Auld Lang Syne snnl,!. good-hy said and at 8 :30 we took the train for liuder wood with our dunnag-e bags, commissary supplies and cooking outfit. By mi Digitized by Google Plate VI. Photograph by Charles S. Gleason MT. HOOD ( 11.��5 FT. ) Platc I 'II. Photograph hy C'hnrl<>" S. Glea, Digitized by Google The :l/ 01111tai11ccr 27 Rising call was somlllP Digitized by Google The .\lo1111tai11ccr the smmnit each season hy the iruidt•s, and climb ing hand over hand, rPachc Digitized by Google I'latr 1·111. 0 (Q "" N (l) Q_ ' ELLIOT GLACIER ON MT. HOOD Photograph by Mabel Furr�· The Mo1111tai11ccr 29 MEANY As valiant as the eagle in his heaven, As stead/ast as the iron rocks, hard riven; As IVarm as sunshine after rain, as sn,eet as sleep is after pain, As golden as the sunset grain, as peace upon the heart had lain; Refreshing as the IVood's n,ind after shon,ers, Or strong as mother love-or mountain ton,ers : Yea, even so is he-and he is ours, And so, to him, these n,ild and n,ind-blon,n flon,ers. A. H. A, Dig1t1zed by Google :1u Tire .l !o1111tai11ccr F. lll\lUND STEPHEN MEANY. M. L. Pre,si Digllized by Google The JI 01111tai11ccr 31 •cLDIBS IN TH�� SOUTHERN SELKIRKS EDWARD ,v. HAR�DEN ''Ifail Columb ia !" That is what I could ha\'e appropriately sung. even in Canada, on the Fo111··h of ,July this year. 11s the "Klahowya" lab oriously forced her shallow breadth against the winding- cnrrt>nt of the ni1wty-mile stretch from Golden. on the C:rnadian P11cific road, to the head water, of tht> Columbia river. The visit of 1910 with l\Tr. Herb ert W. Gleason to the snow and ice clad sources of the s ream, as told to read('rs of the l\Iountaineer last year. had heen fascinating- but disap pointing. Like �loses, we had seen but had not entned upon the promisNl land. Our trip to th<' head of two of tht• we�tcrn trib utaries. Tob y and Horse Thief creeks, rising in the very crest of the southern Selkirks. had afforded us glorious Alpine views of unclimbed and almost unknown peaks : but protracted forest fir<>s had t>nforePd an idlene,s which had left us in bad climb ing condition and had so shortem•d our time thnt. inst1•ad of leaping- joyously from crHg- to crag, we conic! simply scurry ab out and size up what we would like to do another year. In stead of sitting haughtily aloft. "like Jupiter on Olympus, looking down from afar upon rnt>n's lin's." we had simply "W al/ted right in, and turned around, And n,all(ed right out again." )fr. Gleason's plans for 1911 • A continuation of Mr. Harnden's "A New Mountain Countr)··· in the Mountaineer of No,·ember, 1910. Digitized by Google :12 Tlzc ,lf 01111tai11ccr We first Yisiti>d the Paradise Basin, whenee we started the climb of Ila11n11oud last yenr. and where our Recording Angel, )frs. Emerson, performed the ratlwr re111,1rkahle celestial feat of coasting- down into l'aradisP. Rut the :'..:orth Fork of Toh�· CrC'ek, somPwha t fc1 rt h0 r on 1111d ahout eig-hteen miles from A tlwh111'r. tlw lwad of 1111 Yi1rntion 011 thP riYer. was the scene of our fir.st real work. "'t• int<>ndPd not only to climb , hut to size up tlw c•o1111try topographically and othC'rwise as well as ti111e would 1wr111it. \Ye wPrt> our own guides, packers. cooks and dish-washers-no trouble> with the servant prob lem ! )[rs. Emerson, bC'sides actin!.! as RPcording Angel of the expedition, planned to do a lit ti<' botanizi11g: :\Jr. Enwrson, who is fill t>n gineer, rarri<'d a li!.!ht tniusit, a11d we had i<'<' axes and ropt• and t lw bPst proeura hie 11nnoids. Incidentally. better measnre lll<'llt and ant>roiding- showed that our estimated altitudes of last yt>ar over-shot the 111ark : hut it .still ri>111ains true that the south<'rn H<0lkirks <' Digitized by Google Plate IX. Photograph by p; dward \V . Harnden ICE COl.l'MNS ON TOBY GLACIER Digitized by Google The ;l/01111tai11ccr 33 we were to hobnob-am} hobnail-latPr. As far as the e�·e could see, from south to north, 1 he landscape fairly bristled with the typical i:rlittering, crevassed i:rlacier fiehls and jagged summits of the Selkirks, which, while perlrnps not averaging quite as high as the neighboring Rockies, have much finer ice fields ( excepting such northern ice-fields in the Rockies as the Columbia and \V ashmawapta ), due to greater precipitation, 11nd 11re more Alpine in character. We returned to our lowt>r camp in g-ood shape for thi> :\fount Hammond elimb. Charlie had not returned, and we had to go without him. A short Digitized by Google :3--l The ;\!01 111 tai11ecr of tremendous cub ical rock hastions. pierced by oceasional gaps, where erosion of the rotten rock by frost and glacial aetion has lrft rough, n1u·row, sharp V-slrnped chimneys. The first gap ha,1 s<'enwd irnpraeticab le to :\Ir. Ellis last. year, and at first so i111prpssNl us : hut ther<' were three of us, we had a good rope, and, avoiding the snow-filled depression, into whieh brokt•n rock }ws a h,1b it of falling, and taking to the side rocks at th<' h·ft. a half honr's delieatp and careful work-in which our Recording AngPl, a novice in Alpine work, showed splendid nen·<'-plaePd us 11t thr top of the bastion. whencP a short srn1111b le brought us to the top of the slrntt,•red rock cone wh i1·h for111s lht> sum111it. Our calculations this year dropped the s11111111it to ab out 10,400 to 10,600feet- sub ject to later refinement-anelev ation, however, well up to that of the highest northern Selkirks : and th1° glorious view afforded of the Columb ia vall<'y to the east, with the Roekies rising beyond, and of our neighb oring crest chain of S<'lkirks to the west, we can never forget. Our Nortli Fork plans were now eonsummated, and our Il<'Xtba se of operations was Earl firey Pass, at the head of the main Tob y Creek, as describ ed in last year's .Mountainrer. This is a pass leading over into the west Kootenay region, and was first crossed hy a )fr. \V ells, of Boston. A day and a half's packi111,r from the Korth Fork camp landed us there ready for busi,wss, camped in a little park re111iniseP11t of Rainier, surr01mded by erythroninm and giant anemones. the dying gasp of the expiring ti111her still leaving, in addition to the Lyell's larclws. fir balsam for beds. Ab out ns was one of the noblest panoramas eoneeivahle, sn ggestiYe, as I said last year, of the vi<'w from the Gomer Grat. The sharp. high, apparently inaccessible peak pictured in plate Ill last ,vear, lying south of tlH' Pass. had haunted my dreams during the winter. I knew that it had three apparently impossib le sides. Thl' fourth, 1�,in1,r in h11ck, I had never seen, but I had faith that it wonld prove feasib le. So on the promis ing- 111omi11g of ,July 18, we started out to eirenlllvent the moun tain and see whethrr I was correct. The party consisted of the Emersons, )Ir. Ellis, who had now rejoined us. and myself. \V e drop1wd from the Pass, which is at a level of about 7400 fert, to the Tob y Gl11cier, which lies at the head of Tob y Creek and is its source, and traveled the long gradually rising curve Digitized by Google The Jlo 1111tai11ccr of the glacier for several miks, starting in a southerly direr.lion 1rnd grathrnlly swinging- to the west as we cut the arc of a circle around the peak. As we ronndt'd a sharp. knife-like rock shoul der of the motmtain. that unknown sonth sic!<' came into view, and there Sl't'm<'d a rc>nsonn hie chance that the mountain was ours. Instead of precipiees where in places the snow and ice conk] harely mflintain a foothold, we found the hollow on this side filled with a i;trep, winding glacier tributary to the Tob y Glacirr, with neve and snow-field ahov<' and a rock ridge at the top. and nil apparen!l,v neg-otiab lc with proper prec1-111tion. There wn<' the usual problems of avoiding crl'vassc>s on the lower levels and looking out for rocks flb ove ; hut all went well. and one o'clock in the afternoon of n. spk•ndid day found us the first persons on the summit of jfonnt Gleason (named after ::\Tr. Hl'rb ert W. Gleason), one of the finest peaks of the south ern Selkirks. We luncher! and enjoyed the curiously detached and tremendous st>nsntion afforded hy a vit>w of a chnotic iee nnd ro<�k world from a peak one side of which swept down thousands of fePt in a shl't>r precipice below fP<'t. Our nneroiding placed the height at about 10,600 feet,011r and rough triangulation from Tohy Glacier, whert> WP sub st'(!lll'ntly ran a bnsc line, gave ll height of 10,800 fret. The summit rock St'emed to be l11 rg-1•ly granitfo, which probably nccounts for the peak's retaining its sharp, l\fatterhorn-like shape. The running' of a bnse line on Toby Glaci<'r and a trip thro11g-h the ice columns of the ''Temple of Karnak,'' whic•h we threaded from <'nd to <'tHl, on sub sequent days, brought our Toby Cre<'k work to n close. and we then hied ours<'h·es to Hors<' Thit>f Creek. another Wl'st to <>flst trihntar�· of the Co lumbia river, lying to the north of Toby Cr<'<'k. )Tr. Ellis had to leave the pnrty ag,1in, on account of business. Horse Thief Creek, in its 45-mile length, heads up in another interesting part of the crest rang-e. Outfitting for the mountaineer and hunter is fncilitated by Thomas Starb ird's delightful l\lountain Vnlley Ranch, ab out thirtet>n miles up the creek from Wilmer. This creek, in its variety of scenic features -canyons, hoodoos, steep mountain side wnlls, unsurpnssc>d waterfnlls and its culminating magnificent Alpine scenery at the head-far surpnsses even the beautiful Tob y CrPek. (f onts fnirly run riot on the monntr1ins ab out the valle�·, there is an Digitized by Google The Jf01 111tai11ccr occasional grizzly to make thing-s interesting, and at the ranch there arc saddle horses and delig-htfnl quarters and surround ings for thP 11011-strenuous tourist. To a camp �8 miles ab o,·e the ranch the Emersons and I packt>d hy horse : and from this camp we did some minor tramp ing- and C'limhing. exploring- what we called Goat Creek, a nor thPl'll trib utary of Horse Thi<>f. We bnck<' Baek of us a wild, jag-god. vertical cliffup-r eared ; acros" th(• vallPy thrl•e wonderful falls plung-ed down the mountain sidl' : and at head of the crePk, in full view. was the iower stn•teh of thetl wnob le•. curving 8tarb ird Glaeit•r, with its back irround of snow 11nd ice pt>aks. don1inatt>d hy the great summit which Wt' hopPd to elilllb . A rc(•o111rniss1rnec was. of conn,(\ first in order, and this we pl111111t>d from a lllinor peak aeross the glacier to the north. So that we tH't'd not rPtraee our steps and the climb might not be. too long- from ou r camp. tlw Emersons and I pla1111t•d a possib le three-days' expt>dition from camp, packing on our backs sleep ing- hag-s and prnvisio11s.dp,·oting- the first Digitized by Google Plate X. STARBIRD GLACIER AND PEAKS AT THE HEAD OF HORSE THIEF CREEK Photograph by G. D. Emen;on The :\fo1111tai11ccr 3, The recouna issance was suceessful and interesting. Our minor 9000-foot peak enabled us to look across at the summit we had in mind and to lay out alternative routes, and offpred glorious views of the snow and ice world about us. 11 The Star bird Glacier, which stretched its immens(• length in horseshoe beneath ns, is perhaps twelve miles long,, possibly the largt>st in thP 8elkirks. Ou every hand were immense ice fields, while hanging glaciers, due to the peculiarly precipitous natur1111 e of the rno1111tain walls, abounded. From one such. over almost > vertical mountain precipice across Horse Thit>f Creek, we wit· nessetl within ftn minutes of each other two tremendous ava lanches. the shattned ice streaming thousands of feet down the mountain side in cascades and finally debouching on to the great glacier itself. 8ome goats also passed in revit>w at rea . sonahly close range. > :\faking camp at the nearest point to our pt>ak where wood st>emed avnilahh> , we tumed in, prt pnrt>d to climb tlw nt>xt tlay. \Ve started long before sunrise. the route upon which we had detPrmined lying over tlw surface of thl' glaein forII st•veral miles, swinging from south to west to the summit of pas.� over into west Kooh>nay, then turninl? sharply to tlw lt•ft and fol tlw lowing a long "switchback" glacier, which skirted our peak on north side, to an ice and snow slope which, with broad cross crevasst•s and a finalbergsc hrund, rose steeply and direct ly to the rock-cnpped summit. An alternative rout<', if this should prove impra cticable, involved the attnck of a rock comb from a point near the pass and working along this comb to a high snow-fi<'ld.asn ailing the summit from the rear. It soon hecame clear that the elements were against us. Heavy clonchi and mist.� formed, and did not hrt>ak away with the rising sun. We crossed the pass and l?Ot some grand vit>ws > of the lower \Vest Koott•nay mountains, but onr summit re maill(•d obscured and weRther conditions were threat(ning. Finally, we were reluctantly obliged to give up the climb. Fate had other knocks in store. Shortly after r(•turning to our main camp a telegram came up the lint> <'ailing the Emersons home : Rnd one of the trail-cutters, Ernest Raiford, a former Maine guide and woodsman, who joinedus and wished to participate in a second attempt on the mountain. had not been in camp five minutes before he had cut himself wt>ll into the ankle bone with an axp, :\[ycomrades sadly depart('(l, say- Digitized by Google :J8 The Jlo1111tai11ccr ing- that they would try to send up somebody who would like to climh the p«:'ak. while I waitl'd a w<•Pk in camp. tHkiug- care of 1111l11cky <>hoppPr and hoping- ag1-1 inst hope. And it raine Digitized by Google The Mou11tai11ccr 39 snow wall with a straight frontal attack, digging in with fingers and toes, I found myself, nt 1 :30 o'clock p. rn., within twenty feet of the highest rocks on the peak. thus justifying our careful reconnaissance, for we had not actually seen the summit since long before leaving the main glacier. Up swarmed the others, and at a signal the highest rock felt its first touch of human feet simultaneously g-iven. Our sizing up had been accurate e,·en ns to the time riee('Ssary for difft>rent parts of the climb , and we returned to camp shortly aft<>r 6 p. rn., as I had told the boys we prob ,1bly would. ,ve intended to uame the peak. the elevation of which is ab out 10,:WO feet, :\It. Thompson, aftl'r the early explorer, but I have since found that there is another :\lt. Thompson, so · n different na-me unl',t be given. The vi('W was perhaps the most superb of the summl'r. The immense curve of the Starb irs, with the deep, grern, in tervPn in g lley. and the tremt>ndous Alpine swe<'P along the crest of theVA main range to the south, to the head of Tob y Creek and beyond, and to the Spillimncheen l\fountains in the. north, comb ined in a wonderful, glorious panorama. All hail to Horse Thief and Tob y Creeks ! And there are other creeks as little known. leadini,r to 1mclimb c' "the hills, Flashing the morn abroad From their iron crests, rvhich tool( The rose of creation's darvn Themsel-ves the earliest booq, On rvhose can,en �rags, deep-drarvn Stands rvritten the rvill of God." Digitized by Google 40 T/zc JI 01111tai11cer THE BEXEDICTION (H' THE MOUNTAINS REv. FREOER1cK T. vV EBB ThP treasured rnemory of twl'h·p years' residence 1war to I.he n•ry h<'art of tlw Ro<'ki<'S nnd nine years in daily sight of the splendid CasciHles and the wild Ol�·mpics and the amazinf! ';;\[ou11tai11 that was God", ,v ith many a vacation hour spent in their s11gi.restive and sere11e solitudes, has convinced me that mountains havP a wry distinct individuality. That is a truism. But tlwy have more than this ; somethinl,! like a very lin• aud 11rnjestic 1wrsonality. It is scarcely a metaphor to say : we sit at their feet and learn, that we commune with them, that our !warts go out to them and that tlwy i:rive answer back to us. Have yon not felt as if thl'se pine-clad, snow-garmented peaks were wrappini:r you in their i.rreat friendship? You tlo not foe! that th<'y are standing aloof eoldly awaiting your homage ; they tnke yon to themselves, into their grandeur. They impart their streni.rth : yon warm their loneliness ; and in the union of mountain and 1111111 yon realize your onP11ess with the great universe itsl'lf, and arc in touch with the throb bing soul of God. I believl' the vt>ry presence of thl' mountains is a benedic tion. And so is the mo11ntain's altitude. ,v hether he will or not, it lifts one np : first the eye, to scale its sides, and then the soul. All who love the mountains or look upon them are not actual mountain climlwrs. but the vision of them all moves to the skies, of necessity, under the mountain's leadership. And their example ! Is not that, too, a lwnediction 1 All the secret of life is wi h them. How responsive they are to the creative agl'neies of nature. still at work. This is their submission to the discipline of life. The pink glow of snns{'t is the mountain's gratitude for the light of the passing day in which they have bathed. They stand immovable-as a brave man may, upon the i,rranite basis of his faith, while the heat nnd the storm and the slow erosion of the rocks are doing for Digitized by Google The Af 01mtai11eer 41 their form what the storm nnd stress of experience are doing for the human soul ; mo11lding it into shape. It is so firm and true,-thc mo11ntain, yet it is not ungra ciously stoical. Its varied moods are the token of its sympathy with the changing processes which are bringing it to the per fection of a more finished beauty. And all the while it keeps up its ministry, through the fertilizing streams, to the needs of the green and fr11itful valleys below and so to the people who dwell there. ''The Lord bless thee and keep thee ; the Lord make his face to sh ine upon thee and bless thee ; the Lord lift up the light of His countenance upon thee and give thee peace.'' }[ay we not so read the benediction of the mountains? AT Sl'NSET Photograph by A. H. Denman Digitized by Google -12 The JI01 111tai11ccr THE FCTURE OF THE RAINIER NATIONAL PARK AsAHEL CuRTJS The mo,t pn'ssing- Jll'<'d in mountain affairs in Washington nt the present timt> is tht> i111provl'mcnt 1rnd extension of the roads of the �rt. lbinier .\"ational P�irk. The mountain is nttrart i11g wide attention and people are coming from afar to visit it. If t!H'Y find tlw 11101111tain accessible they will tl'll their fril'nds ahout their trip 1111 Digitized by Google Plair XI. Copyright Asahel Curtis Mt. Rainier from Indian H,·nry·,.. Hunting Ground southwest ,:Id... of the mountain. A sun·e�· ha>1 been madt> for 8 road Into this park from the pn·,w nt road to Longmire Springs. Thl,a road should ht' eonRtrueted as soon "" pos, Digit,zed by Google The Mo1111tai11ecr 43 There is need of a road on 1 he north side HS well HS the south side. This ean l?O from the present road at or near Fairfax and rt•ach the icP of the Carb on Glaeier. From this point it can be continued into both Spray and )loraine parks. Some road should he opened from the east to permit people to come in on that side and go out via the south. Th<.> important thing is to Digitized by Google Tlt c .II0111 1 tai11Nr ALL NIGHT ON AN ACTIVF, VOLCANO CHARLES ALBERTSON Recent ncwsp•lJ>l'l'S rl'JHirt a renewed activity of Asama Ya ma i11 rPntral ,Jn pan. Friends eonfirm thesr statP111euts and tell of the loss of human lifo. All this brings clearly to mind a trip brotlwrHJ.!' O.and I madr to this rnergPtic volcano-mountain sornr years It was in September, 1901, tlrnt we took stPa1111'r from rny h011w in KobP for Yokoh�ma. From tJ1pre m• travekd probably a hundred milPs by narrow gauge and raek railway to a little villagl• eallt><:1 Kar11izawa, on the watPr shcd of the unique Island Empir,\'OllllJ.!'.P. Asamft Yama is of volcanic origin. without l,.!'laciprs. and therefore shapely and attractiw•. It is gray-brown, of broad base, conical. and rises in i,rrac•t>ful c· nrws from a platPau to a height of 8280 feet. One splenclicl fresh morning we started from Kflruizawa at 8 ::m. Brotht>r 1,.!'0t away first whilP I was leng-thening the stirmp-straps. IJP had thrPe 1111•n to his jinrickisha, one in the shafts ir nd two pushing. 'fhpy sw11111-!'out of the tiny mountain hamlet at a lively pace and all knew we were bound for Asama. After six milrs the roncl lwg-an to climb gra1lually and at eight mile's we stoppPd at a clPar, cool spring to fill our water bottles, as we shoul Digitized by Google The .\I 01111tamccr bc>gnn. Owing- to the zig--zag-g-ing- of the trail we still had some two miles to go to reach our goal. The route was marked hy stone cairns. \Vhen ab out half way up to the top. which we were mmally wntching-. WP saw an nnt.'xpected eruption likP many we h·id SP('ll at long-t'r rang-e. It consisted of s111okc>, steam. and aslws, one-eighth of a mile in diameter at tlw eratn month. projt.'f'ted ab out a mile nnd a half straig-ht up in the air. It went sky ward, seemingly slowly, bnt in fact with g-reat speed. g-radually unfolding and spreading out until the top was much larg-er than the base upon which it appeared to stand. As the vast gray brown volume asccnch•d, more of course took its place from the cratPr. therehy k('Pping the form of tlw enr-ri... ing- shape. The whole mass litPrally boilP(l and tried to unfold and unwind 11nd untwist like great brown clouds Pach trying- to g-et ont of the i111mp11sity of itself nnd yet always keeping- an approximate waterspout shap(', unab h• to R<'complish its st>paratiug purpos<'. Soon the winds began to drift it over until its syn111H•try was lost and it mingled with tlw clouds distinguishab le only by being a little darker in color. It had been a wonderful sight and not soon to be forgotten. In a few minutes we were treatl•d to a rain of fine, penc>trating, biting ashes. After awhile we tnrned to the right and followed around the side of the mountain instead of climb ing dirt>ctly np. This was ea;;ier work, though more dangerous. for it took us across a very long steep slope with precarious footini?. At last this diagonal trail brought us out on a fairly level knoll ab out 1000ft>t>t from the crater and 150 feet below it. ·,N e r(•ached the top at 4 :00 o'clock. The climb was 4500 fpet. When within 50 feet of the erater tlwre was a booming roar from directly undPr us like nnto tPn :\"iag-aras. \V t' werP instantly enveloped in asht'S and a black snlphurou.s smoke mixed with hot steam which had no rt>spt'ct for onr sense of smell any more than the ashes had for our eyl'.sight. At the s,1me time we distinctl�' heard rocks and stones dropping hack into the liquid lava way down in the unearthly crater. They fell with great, thick-sounding, hPavy pu Digitized by Google 46 The Jfo1111tai11ecr darkness. Resoundiul( in on r <'IU's a wild, baffled, awful roar of rag-efrolll the very cntranee itself. llndPr our fi>et WP heard and ft>lt thP roeks as they went plung-ing- hack into the yellow ht•ated cauldron from which they had only hel'n partially ejected. It was all so utterly uncxpected, so sudden, without any warning-, that we lwartily wislwd ourselves Wl'll out of it. Photograph by Charles Albertson Smoke. steam and gas('s erupting from Asama Yama. Column of vapors thr ..e-fou rth,s of a mil" abo\'P thP t• 1·a ter The smoke elearPd away and on r tremulous nerves quieted down. Then the first thing- to do was to see where all the g-rew some fun came from. so we made for the edg-e of the crater. The top for a very short distance aronnd the grPat, yawning-, circular hole is fnirly fl at and is one mass of rock;; and lava completely fillNl in with 11slws. It is thc>rl'fore very porous, hollow sounding-. and not wel1 built to rl'Sist pressure. Standing on sueh matt,rial we lookl'd over into the uncertain pit. The sides were straight up and down and we drew back in horror. We had little faith in th<' u11stahle !(round we stood on. Far, far below we elearly heard the Devil's awful kettle boiling, slow!,\' boilini.r, boiling rocks, boiling the foundations of the •'lll'th, hoili11i.r the thing-s we considered inck structib le. Our idt>as of the per111anency of thing-s chani.red. It was not a Y1goron s boiling-, hut i.raw• a Digitized by Google The Afmmtailieer 4i but awful power. Time was no ob ject. The result would be accomplished just the same. Ko hurry, but forever and ever and ever boiling. On no fickle sub stance like water did it waste its energ-y, but conct•ntrated its action on ponderous adaman tine masses which took the power au Digitized by Google 18 Tlic .ll01 111 tai11rcr two and onf'-half hours lwforl'. \Ve W<'rt' hungry, V<'ry tired, th1· 1•xeitl'1111•nt sP1·11wd 0\"1'1', the sun goon<'. darkness hurried afl1•r us. da111p misty 1·londs wrapped us, ehill-eold gripped ns. \\'<' wt•n• s1Hld1•11ly alnll<' in thP ni1,d1t upon a mountain top, far fro111 ho1111• and on r lwlovl'd world lwlow. ( 'ril's of pierei11g- tl'rror from the eoolies ma Digitized by Google Plate XIV. g_ cr tg'< ASAMA YAJIIA FROM KARUIZAWA TEN MILES AWAY The M 01wtai11eer 49 us. "\V e were on the top of a most uncertain volcano which behaved most strangely. I was full of a complexity of weird feelings mingled with those of utter helplessness and danger. All the surroundings were dark and ft•arsomP-was it a wonder that we slept uneasily and heartily welcomed the th y? At five in the morning as the dumb, grey, grizzly dawn was findingitself out of the blackness in the east, we were awakened by another loud ('Xplosion and crawled out to see once again at close range the magnificent boiling smoke. The rocks this time fell back into the hot bed whence they came. We felt easier. for we expected to be off that place hefore the usual time for another. There was no sunrise for us and our scant breakfast was hastily eaten. Another look was ventured into the great pit of the Evil One, hut we could see nothing. as the steam from his breakfast of sulphur and lava rose in great volumes. The wind, too, stinging cold and keenly damp, wrapped tht• clouds in gray, chilly sh('ets about us, so that we were glad to make away from the haunted though enticing pinnacle downwards toward the earth whence we had com(', it seemed. long, long before. We made fast time getting off that volc1mo, for in an hour and a half we were at the base of Ko-Asama, mighty glad to be free from the mental tension of the night before. Then it was we spread our blankets in the gladsome sunshine, ate a bite, and stretched ourselves to sleep. A half hour in the jinrickisha followed. Tht>n an hour on foot over a very ancient Java flow which was covned by a sparse vegetation. This brought us to an ice cave under a young lava hed only one hundred twpnty years old. The great, brown, cavernous mass rose abruptly before us and we scrambled. climlw Digitized by Google ;j() Tl,c Mo1111tai11ecr Even to this day there is no vegetation on the miles of waste rock. The dust may fill a small crevice or two. The rain moistt,ns the seeds drop1wd thert>in by the birds, but that is all. They are like the biblical seeds that were dropped by the wayside and brong-ht forth fruit-no fold. This clean, new, vegetationh'ss bed. even though old by our standards, impressed upon us a ch'ar 1wrception of the nge of the world and the long, slow processPs of time. The usual and unusual incidents of the trip. including our escape, ha AT CLOSJ•: OF' NJ(;HT ON VOLCANO Digitized by Google The Jlo1111tai11ccr 51 WITH THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA The sixth annual camp of the Can:Hlian Alpine Club was held at Sherb rooke :\Ieadows, B. C .. from July 26th to August 4th, 1911. The camp was five miles from Hector, on the main line of the Canadian Pacificra ilway, midway between Field and Laggan. It was in a beautiful vallt>,Y-mountains on both sides and above, with Sherbrooke Lake a mile lower down the valley and with Lefroy, Victoria, and Cathedral mountains in sight across Lake Sherb rooke. The club furnished tt>nts with good bough hetls, sufficient to care for 125 at one time. Over 150 attended the camp during tlw nine days. There was a large dining tent capab le of seating about 80 at one time, located 111idway hetwcen the men's and women's quarters. .A Chinl's<' cook aud two assist ants cookt'd for the large party, and a maid cooked for the help and for any meals outside the regular hours. There were three maids and three boys to wait on the table. Tea was served at 4 p. m. every afternoon for any ladies or others who cared to indulge. There were three Swiss guides in attendance during the outing, lwsides a numb er of the older members of the club who acted as guides. The rope is ll'>ed much more than on the Coast mountains, the people being roped together in parties of five or six as soon as the climbing becomes difficult. There is very much more rock work and much more difficult and danl?erous climb ing thnn in the Coast mountains. The ice-ax is much more popular than the alpenstock and is better for experience •Official guest from �l ountaln<>ers to Alpine Club of Canada. Digitized by Google Tlzc Jfo1111tai11ccr wns found to lw too diffieult. so 011ly a fpw had the pleasure of m•1king it. Fi\'(' memb t' rs of the Alpine Club and the repre s(•ntatin•s of the Appalachian, :\laza111a and :\lounbineer clubs were gin•n tlw trip up Popes l't>ak as a reward for their atte111pts to help the 1,rrad11atin1,r classes. Along with two Swiss gnidt>s this party 111ade the aset•nt the sa111e day that the :\fo1111taint>Prs eliml>Ptl :\It. Adams. There was some rock work that slwwPd the 1,r11id1•s to 1,rood ndvantag-e, and also showed the nel'll of !ht• party lwini.r rop('(l to1,retlwr. This climb was made from a t1•m1wrary <'lllllp at Ross Lakt>, the only place that the Photograph by P. M. McGregor LAKE LOl 'ISE, PART OF VICTORIA GLACIER SHOWING THROUGH THE CLOl' DS mosquitoes were bad. \Ve spent one night there, but preferred to make the trip to the top and back to main camp the same day rather than spend another night there. The annnal meeting took place m• xt day. There were 125 people in camp, a nnmb cr coming in for that occasion. Elec tions take plact> every two years and this was the year that they "stood," so it was principally reports that were sub mitted to the memb ers. The secretary's report showed that the club had a paid-np memb ership of 650, that the club received grants of money from the Dominion government, British Columb ia goYernm(•nt. A llwrta government. and the Canadian Pacific Digitized by Google !'lair XV. Photograph by P. M. McGregor MT. BIDDLE AND GLACIER. LAKE McARTHUR, ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTil<"UL LITTLE LAKES IN THE ROCKIES Digitized by Google 53 The Mou11tai11ecr railway, besides two Swiss guides free from the Canadian Pacific railway during camp. This money is Pxpended prin cipally on opt•ning up and exploring new country. '.\Ir.Wheeler and the club guide bPing in the Yellowhead country all s11111- mer. There is a club house at Banff that isownd hy a joint stock company of members and leased to the cluh. Club nwm b.Jrs receive from the Canadian Pacific railway a single fare round trip from auywhere in Canada for the annual outing. The meeting took pJ.we around the campfire. Vic<'-pre,;ident Patterson had charg-e of the camp in the absence of '.\Ir. ·w heeler, president and director. Ile proved himself a very hard working 1n•11tle111an. met all rww arri\'als with a handshake, directed them to the annex to the dining tent if it was outside the regular meal hours, told them where the secretary was to be found, and even ealled the early parties at 4 o'cloek in the morning- for breakfast. I do not think that he was out of camp for two hours during- the nine days. '.\Ir. Forde, ehai�nmn of the climb ing eommittPe. was a very capable r.entleman, who with two others on his committee gave all members a chance to graduate. '.\Ir. Forde was out on a roJ·e himself PV<'ry day on 1 the same mountain, and finally as his ewn reward he went over with two or three others to climb Po,,es Pt,"l k, but the guides would not takP tlwm up as the snow was not safe, due to much rain. l\Iuch rain fell during U,e camp, but gPnera lly at night. Tents are more necessary tha11 in our Coast mountains. There were 6:3 members graduat1·d this year. The tents furnishP Digitized by Google The JI 01111tai11ccr :;-1 The cnrnpfir<•s wt•re a plt•,1.-;ant ft>atun•. with !I new ehair nian every p,·ening-. gprn•rally some well knO\\"n memb er or visitor. I do not think tlwrP wc1·p as 111a11y flowers as in our moun tains. nor as large tirnlwr in th<' vallt·�·s. and not as much snow on the mo1111tains. Tin• prettiest lttk<>s and ri,·ers !Ind the most rugged monutains I hnvc Pvcr SP<'ll ar<' the 01ws in the vicinity of the Alpine Club <·amp. THE OLY�I PIC XATIOXAL 1[0NC�IENT. F1>l\:n::,.;o K :\h:ANY. ThP :\Ionntaim•prs arP det•ply interest{'(} in tlw Olympie :'\a tional :\[0111111H•nt and thPy 11re j11stly proud of thl'ir sncress in worki11:: for its Pl'Pation a11d 111ai11tPrn111cP. ·while p 01rnestly en thnsiastir they arC' by no means C'cc·entric or foolish in their attitude. Tlu•y lrnve nrver favored tlw locking- np of ne<•ded resourcPs. Th<·�· strivl' to lead rathn th11n to hinder th(' ad vntwe of rPal progress. It would he well to record here the steps b�· whic·h th<' :\lonumrnt was cretttc•d and tlwn discuss the pres('nt sitm1tion. In tlH' Fifty-11inth Congress crno:;.1907) ads WCI'(' passed to make provision for the erPetion of 111onnments to the memory of John P1111l ,Jo1ws and otlwr hnoes and orw other ,1ct (Chapter 3060. pa::e 2:_!;j ) was C'ntitled : "An Aet for the Pm-;ervation of American Antiqnitie.s." Its provisions are as follows : "BP it enaeted by the Henate and Honse of Representatives of thr lluit<'d States of America in Con::rrss ass!'mb led, That nny per.son \\·ho shall appropriat(', excavatr. in,jnre or di•stroy any historic or prPhistorie m01m111t>nt or ruin or monument. or any ob ject of antiquity, sit11ate Digitized by Google !'la te .Y 1'l. R. Photograph by D. Glisan MT. HL'BER, 11.041 FT.-\VIW AXY PEAKS, 8,869 FT. Plat,· X 1 ·11. Photograph by P. M. McGregor View from the side of Mt. Daly showing Sherbrooke Meadows, the camp Is behind the bluff and below. The mountains showing from left to right art> Victoria, 11. 55 ft.. Ll'froy. 11.��0 ft.. Cathedral. 10.454 ft., Ogden, 8, 7ll ft., and Sherbr3 nok<' J..ake In the centl'r. 5 Digitized by Google The Jfou11tai11ccr ,j ;j "Sec. 2. That the President of the United Statf's is hereb y authorized, in his discretion, to declare by pub lic proclamation historic landmarks, historic an Digitized by Google 5U The Mo1111tai11eer as indit'ated. by the following letter written by George E. Wright to CongT<'ss11rn11 Will E. Humphrey under date of 9 Febrnary. 1909 : "'I au1 about to IPrHl 111y support to the movement to create some kind of a National Park out of the main body of the Olympie )lon11t11 ins. "'With a view to prepariug some kind of a proposed bill to be introduced in Cougrpss. I h1n·c just looked up the Act which yon introduced for the establishment of a game preserve and I ha n rt·1Hl with considerable interest the proceedings in the House of Representatiws as thPy appear in Congressional Record. "What ,n• had in mind was. in the .Act itself, to designate tlw limits of the resrrve. This proposition we are going over ca,·efnlly with some of the :\lntmtainecrs, who are very familiar with the ground, an<.l we propose also to go over it earefnlly with the men owning large bodies of timber-although thus far we h11 Ye not found tlwm interested-for we do not proposP. to go down into the valtrnble tirnbrr. We can e:1sily create a Park h11ving- 11rea of hetwe<'n six hundred and one thousand square miles without approaching the houndari<'sof the present forest r1'sen·e and without approaching 111erehantable timber, unless possibly some very small quantities wlwre the line of the Park will cut across narrow valleys. "The ma in 111nuntain ridges will upon 1111 ,ides run outside of the artifieial boundariPs which we shall snggt-st. For this reason it 11111�· lw desirable in addition to creating artificial limits. to give power to tl w PrPsident b.v proch11nation, to make to a limited cxtrnt, some fntnre Pnlnrg_l'111e11t of these limits, a� the topogr11phy of tlw ground may reqnirr. .. ,V iii you ki11dly a(h·isP lilt' upon the following point.-, : • 1. Would you likl' us to draft and submit to you, a pro posed Act of Congress ; or ,yon Id yon prefer to draw it your self '! 2. Will you g-iveyour approval to the idea of provisionally defining. in the Aet itself, the limits of the reserve ? 3. Will it be best to have thi;, Park created as a game pres<>rY<'. or simply as a pla i11 :'\ationnl Park. 4. Is it desirable in addition to establishing in the first instanr<'. the bounds of the reserve. to give to the Presidl'nt the power to enlarge these bonnds ? Digitized by Google Th e Jf 01111tai11ccr 57 5. Whnt other sug-g<'stions have you to offer ? "'Viii yon kindly hnvp sent to us, 01w of the lll'lps which, as a SC'parate fold<'r, accompnnies the r<'port upon the Olympic Forest Re.serve ? This map I desire to return to you with the proposed boundari<'s of the reserve indicnted upon it. "I am Sl'tHlini,r you, u11der S<'paratecover, a panon1111ie photo grnph, which conveys a very good idea of the general char acter of the country proposed to be set apart as a reserve. The rndorsement upon the back of this photograph is self-explana fl)J'y." The photograph referred to was the excellent picture of tlw rangi> 111ttd(• by Asalwl Curtis, who was activ1•ly engaged with ::\Ir. ''fright in this enterprise. When Congressman Humphrey received that lettc>r and the accompanying plioto grnph he laid both before President Roosewlt, who at once turned to the law for �ational �Ionu111ents for authority, and under date of 2 )larch, 1909, iss1wd the followi11g proclama tion : "WHERE.AS, The slopes of ::\fount Olympus and the ad jacent summits of the Olympic )fountains, in the State of Washington, within the Olympic National Forest. emb race cer tain ob jects of unusual scientific interC'st, including numerous glaciers. and the region which from time immemorial has form<'d the summ<'rrange and breeding grounds of the Olympic Elk (Cervus Roosevelti), a species peculiar to these mountains and rnpidly decrC'asing in numb ers ; ":\'ow. Tht'reforP. I, 'l'lwodore Roosc>vt>lt, Pn,sidt'nt of the l'nit<'d Statc>s of America, by virtue of the power in me ,·ested by sC'etion two of the Aet of Congress, approved June eighth, ninete<'n hundred and six, entitled, ''An Act for the preserva tion of American antiquiti('s," do proclaim that there are here by reserved from all forms of appropriation under the pub lic land laws, sub ject to all prior valid adverse claims. and set apart as a Xational ::\fonurnent, all the tracts of land, in the counties of Jefferson, Clallnm, )Jason and Chehalis, in the State of ,v ashington, shown as the :\fount Olympus Xational ::\forrn ment on the diagram forming a part hereof, and more partic ularly located and d<'scrib ed as follows, to-wit : • • • • • "The rt'snvation made b�· this pro<>hunationis not intended to prewnt th<' use of the lands for forest purposes under the Digitized by Google The Jfo1111tai11ccr proela111atio11s pstab lishing the Ol�·mpic Xational Forest, but thP· two rPsPrvations shall both be effrctivt• on the land with druwn. hut the Xational }lonunwnt hen•b y estab lished shall be tl11• dominant n•st>rvation 1111d any USP of the land which inter feres with its presnvation or prott>ction as a ;\'ational l\lon umrnt is lwrehy forb idden. \V arning is lwreb y given to all unauthorizl•d 1wrsons not to approprint<•, injnrr, remove. or de stroy any fPatun• of this �ational )Iouument. or to locate or scttlP upon any of the lands n•st•rved by this proclamation. "I:-.: Wl'l' :-.:Es8 WHEHEOF'. I have hereunto set m�· hand and raused the seal of the l'nitd Stafrs to be affixed. "Do1u• at th1• City of \Va-:hinl,!ton this st>t•ond day of :\larch. in the y1•ar of our Lord one thous11rnl nine hundred and nine. and of the lndPpen This 111l't with l,!l'neralHpplause throughout the Xorthwest and the }lountainePrs felt sPcurc in the fruits of their lab ors in that direction until tlwre arose complHints that prospectors and miners were hindered in their efforts to secure the min eral wealth supposed to exist within the }fonnment. This ob jection was promptly met in a chariieteristic way by the l\Ioun tHinePrs. When WaltPr L. Fisher. Secretary of the Interior, visited the �orthwt>st lw sought information ab out the Olympic �a tional }IonumPnt as he did ab out othn matters within his jur isdiction. Asalwl Curtis 1rn d Oem·l,!e E. Wright wPre Hsked to serve as a committee of the }fountaincers to present the facts to Rt•eretary Fislwr. The club wislwd to advocate every rea sonab le wish of the miners. A conference was held by repre sentatives of the various commercial bodies and organizations interested and it was amicab ly agrP<'d to work together to pro cure the following- general ob jects : To change the Olympic National }fonument into the Olympic National Park ; to have the Vnih•rl RtatPs Gl'ological Survey make a careful survey of the park as to its mineral resources ; to permit mining and prospecting under propt•r regulation-; within the pHrk ; to ad just the boundaries so as to include the summits of the moun tains and as littlP as possib le of lHnds useful for agriculture or forPstry. Digitized by Google Plate XXIII. Photograph by H. A. Fuller J\fOl'NTAINEERS IN THE GOAT ROCKS Digitized by Google The 1'101111tai11eer 59 Surprise and gratitude were expressed by the others inter ested that the l\Iountaineers took such liberal ground on ques tions naturally dear to them. Such has always been the at titude of the )[ountaineers. They want to save generous play grounds for the whole people. The time is already upon us when such attractive parks are appreciated. As the population and tourist travel increase so will increase the intrinsic value of such parks. Anyone at all familiar with the conditions in Switzerland, Califomia, the Yellowstone Park and elsewhere know that the whole Puget Sound country is destined to be come an allnrin� place for travelers and that such visitations help t>normously to develop and emb ellish the region visited. There are now thousirnds of people in various parts of this Repub lic who have enjoyed visits to the i\Iount Rainier Ka tional Park. They would reb el vigorom,ly against any attempt to harm that wonderful beauty spot of earth. As methods of approach are improved there will arise other thousands who will he equally loyal to the Olympic �ational Park. The Mountaineers wish to help in every way possib le to build trails and roads into these parks and to safeguard the beauties of nature there for the free enjoyment of all the peo ple. Photograph by R. J. Hagman Digitized by Google Plate XII. Copyrigh t A> l'/,11,· Xlff. Copyright A1mhel Curll� Sprn)· Park on the northweHt Ride of th,• mountain. This vast pnrk Is )now reached only by a poor syHlem of trails and thlR region Rhould be opened a� quickly as pcn��lblt·. No road work C'nn ht• done until Rllf\'PYS an. mac.le and ttH·refore it beeomes necessary to deelde upon the system of roadR for tht> whole rmrk and llwn work out th,·> Digit,zed by Google Plate XVIII. Plate XIX. ;;; co 0. �: S! Photograph by H. B. Hinman Photograph by William H. Gorham Some very Ruccesstul outings hnve been THE MOUNTAINEERS BEGINNING THE planned by the Everett Mountaineers. The ASCENT OF MT. ADAMS picture shows them on n snowfield below the summit of Mt. Pllchuck. Plate XXII. MT. HOOD, 11,225 FT. Photograph by Mabel Furry /'lat,· XX. ABOVE KLICKITAT MF:ADOWS J. Photograph by R Hagman /'late XX/. HAND OF SHEEP NEAR CISPLTS PASS, ELEVATION 6.000 FT. l'hotoi;rnµh t,y<. 'harl,·s AIIJertson l'lc.tc XX/I·. Photograph by H. V. Abel SNOW CORNICE AROVE KLICKITAT GLACIER, l\lT. .-\ DAJ\IS Digitized by Google Plat,· II . .. ... , Photograph l)y A. H. Denman WI-ITTF: BARK PINE (PIN'l'S CONTORTA ) Digitized by Google Plate XX/"//. Photograph by A. H. Denman IN THE RAINIER NATIONAL PARK Digitized by Google The Mountaineer Volume Four Notes of Other Clubs Other Notes Correspondence etc. Digitized by Google fiO The Mo1111tainccr NOTES OF OTHER CLUBS. The Mazamas, about forty In number, left Port· Glacier Peak Outing land the morning of August 2d, 1911. for Seattle, of the Mazama Club and on to \V enatchee that night, taking the steamboat uo the Columbia the next day to Chelan Falls: staged uo to Lakeside, and from there a small steamer took them up Lake Chelan to Stehekin, at the upper end of the lake, arriving that even· Ing, August 3d. They left the next day, proceeding to Bullion, ten miles up the Stehekln river, where they camped over night at the fork of Bridge Creek and Agnes Creek trail, near the ranger's cabin. The next day they walked over the trail, up the south fork of Agnes Creek. to a cabin several m!les below Cloudy and Sulattle passes. The day fol· lowing they kept on over Sulattle Pass, down the canyon, to the ford below Glacier .\line, and over the two divides to Buck Creek Pass. where the main camp was established at the same place the Moun taineers had chosen the year previous. The weather going in was cloudy and threatening, with fog and occasional showers, but cleared the second day after making the main camp. The writer came into camp several days late, having come down from the outing of the Al1>ine Club of Canada, where he represented the l\lazamas, and met P. M. l\lcGregor, representing the .\loun taineers. who will confirm the statement that the Canadian Rockies is a most alluring place for mountain enthusiasts to visit. I arrived in camo August 11th, the day the Mazamas made their official climb. Thev had left camo the day 1>revious. following the Mountaineers' trail over Little and Big Sulattle, across Chocolate Creek. and up the ridge above Chocolate Glacier. making camp a few hundred yards below the site selected by the l\lountalneers. After a successful climb on August 11th. all making the summit. tour of the party returned to the main camo the same day, the others staying over night at the upoer camo and returning leisurely the next day. The next morning a party of six, two ladies and four men. with sleeping bags and provisions. started on a knapsack trip for Glacier Peak. taking the route the main party had taken. and reaching their camp site about three o'clock. \V e were just below the ridge rising from Chocolate Glacier In a small mountain meadow near the snow line looking out over a deep canyon with an extensive view of the ranges beyond which we enjoyed to the utmost. I have ascended over twenty snow peaks. but have never seen such perfect cloud panorama t1s we exoerienced climbing Glacier Peak. We rose at three o'clock. started at 4: 30, followed the ridge through such heavy fog as to make us sneculate if we could follow the back trail should we be obliged to turnback. Soon we noticed the fog was growing lighter, and sud- Digitized by Google The M ou11tai11ccr (il denly we came out above the fog, and what had been a cold, cheerless fog proved a sea of wonderful bi1lowy clouds, with peaks rising like small islands from an angry tempest-swept sea, the clouds rolling up to where we stood, threatening to sweep us off our feet, the rising sun tinting the crest of the blllows a delicate crimson. Coming as it did after the gloom and chill we had just oassed tbrouii:h. the con· trast was overpowering. All the way up, over the glacier, we re peatedly looked back. From the summit we could easily make out Baker, Rainier, St. Helens and other peaks above the clouds, and the latter breaking, we could look down into the canyons and timbered valleys far below. We made the summit at 9: 10, stayed an hour. and descended to main camo at 11:iiO. and after a brief rest and lunch, took the back trail, arriving at Buck Creek camp about seven that evening. I mention the time, as it may be of Interest to the :M oun taineers, who oreceded us the vear orevlous, and greatly helped us by the trails the�· had blazed to Glacier Peak. The l\lazamas broke main camp the next morning, August 16th, and camped that evening below Cloudy Pass, stayed over an extra dav to give all an opportunity to visit Lyman Lake and Glacier, and then retraced their wav down Agnes Creek, stooping at Bullion over night, and reaching Stehekln at noon the next day, August 20th. The .\lazamas left that afternoon for Lakeside, caught the steam· boat at Chelan Falls next morning, the train at \V enatchee that after noon, and were back in Portland Monday morning, August 21st. R. L. GLISAN The Appalachians spent about two weeks during Appalachian Camp this summer among the summits and trails of at Whiteface the Sandwich range, just north of Lake Wlnnipe· saukEe. There were about thirty members In the party and nearly twenty made the climb of Whiteface and Passaconaway, about 4,000 feet high. The club maintains a small shelter at the foot of the cone of the mountain In which as many s(}ent the night as the size of the shelter would permit. Fourteen of the party climbed Sandwich dome, which made a good half day climb. The program for the last week included a climb to Chocorua, a day at Bear Camp Pond and an overnight temporary camp at Black Moun tain Pond, high up under the south knob of the mountain. The char acter of eastern mountain cllmbing as compared to climbing here abouts ii; well Indicated by the following reference to the path being marked by a i;ign : "Any who think of tramping in to Flat Mountain Pond from Whiteface should Inquire the way, since the wood road leading to the path is not marked with a sign.'· The Appalachians maintain a number of huts and camos about the White .\fountains for the use of whoever mav pass. The 1911 outing of the Sierra Club was held In Activitiea oltheSierra the Yosemite ::-.ational Park. A preliminary camp Club During 191l was �stabllshed In Yosemite Valley for the two weeks preceding the main outing. The unusually high water In the streams made a wonderful spectacle of the falls this year and the Digitized by Google l G2 Tlic .fo1111tai11ccr valley was crowded with visitors. On July ith the main outing party left San Francisco, rea<'hing Yosemite Valley the next day. The morning of the 10th the Yosemite camp was struck and the start made for the high country. One hundred and eighty-fivemembers were on the outing list, and with the addition of cooks, packus, and as sistants the oarty numbered over two hundred persons. The first camp was made in Little Yosemite, and the seC'ond at Lake '.\lerced, where two davs were devoted to the exploration of the upper MerC'ed Basin and the climb of l\lt. Clark (lt,fi06). Thence the party traveled across Vogelsang Pass and down Raff'erty Creek to the Tuolumne '.\leadows, a most beautiful and spacious mountain garden soot about 9,000 feet In elevation, whlrh is the finest camping ground in the Sierra and so located that an almost unlimited number of trips may be taken from It. Ascents of Dana (13,050), Lyell {13,090), Rit ter (13.H,6) and Conness (12.5a6), trips to Tioga Lake for fishing or down the Bloody Canyon to the volcanic regions about Mono Lake, fishing parties up and down the Tuolumne River, picnics on Lam bnt ·s Dome. er swimming in r:og Lake filled to overflowine; the five days that were spen t there. A two days' camp at the mouth of Con ness Creek gave an opportunity to visit the more wonderful falls near the head of the Tuolumne Canvon before setting out on the trip that was the main frature of this outing-the cir<'uit of the northern porticn cf the 1>ark. For more than a week cam1> was shifted nearly every day. Mat .terhnrn, K0rrlck, Stubblefield and Tilden canyons, Rogers, Benson ar:cl Tilden lakes v, ere visited. Piute Mt. and Ranch erla Mt., ;\lattnhorn an:! Tower Peak were climbed and then the party Journeyed to Hetch Hetchy, remaining there for three days be fore taking the homeward trail via Crockers and the Merced and Tuolumne groves of sequoias to El Portal. No accidents marred the trio and the only incom·enienC'e sufferPd was from one or two heavy thundershowers whose wonderful cloud scenery more than C'ompen sated for the temporary disC'omfort. The Le Conte l\lemorial LodJ?:P onened as usual on May 15th and was maintained for three months as the club·s Yosemite Valley head quarters. Several valuable additions have been made to the library and eQuioment of the LodJ?;e and the fact that more than a,000 people visited it last summer shows that it is gaining an Important nlace for itself In the valley. A herbarium was Installed this summer and a comnlet.e C'OIIPction of YoEemite wildflowns will be secured as soon as possible. :\laps and photographs of the High Sierra are on dis play there and information regarding trails and camping places freely given. As Interest in the more unfrequented portions of the Yosemite National Park is increasing each year the Lodge's usefulness Is only in its beginning. The weekly local walks in the vkinity of San Francisco continue to hold their popularity and a similar mo,·ement has been started in Southern California. The average attendance in the Bay region Is about fifty, rileasant days often calling out as many as eighty or ninety. A feature that grows In favor is the over-night trip, taken Digitized by Google 01111tai11,:,:r (j;J Th,: ,lf to embrace all holidays falling on a Saturday or :iionday, and also a Saturday afternoon and Sunday trip each month when the moon is near the full. Some of the points thus visited have been :\It. Dlablo, l\H. St. Helena, the Big Basin (Santa Cruz I\Hs.), the Redwood Grove of the Bohemian Club and the Armstrong Big Tree Grove along the Russian River, Duxbury Reef at Bolinas, Inverness (on Tomales Bay), Bear Valley, La Honda and Potrero Meadows. Some of these have been taken as pure knapsack trips, In others the over-night stop has been made at a hotel, and on still others some of the party have knap· sacked while others have remained at a hotel. Though hardly to be classed among the "local" exC'ursions one of the activities planned by the Local Walks Committee was a mid-winter trip to Yosemite Valley, which gave about twenty dwellers in the Bay region the novel experience of ice skating, skeelng, coasting and snow balling. I\IARION RANDALL PARSO:'\S There is plenty of good work going on In Switz· Swiss Alpine erland in the way of true alpinlsm. A Zurlchose Club mountaineer, ::\!. Triek, of the Uto section of the Swiss Alpine Club, ascended on July 30, for the first time this year. the difficult and dangerous pass of Crast'Aguzza. between the :\!or· terasch Glacier and the upper Scerscen Glacier, in the Bernina group. The section Diablerets early In August made Its regular excursion to the Grisons, cllmbi:ig In considerable numbers Piz Segnes, near Films (10,174 feet) and Sardona, about fifty feet lower. The Dlablerets section has been In evidence against this season, this time at Zermatt, where, on August 7, ten members, having for guests two of the Montreux sect.Ion, climbed the Matterhorn with· out a guide. It was a gala day for the grim old mountain, for not less than thirty-two persons were on its summit, and at the hut It was necessary · for half of the company to sleep out of doors. It was stormy In the night, but no one was the worse. The convention of mountain climbing clubs called by the Hono· lulu Trail and i\lountain Club was held In Honolulu during the week from February 22d to February 28th. 191 l. The meetings were very Informal In their nature. The desirability of some joint action bJ· the clubs on the Coast giving a member of one club temporary rlghrn and priv!IPges of their clubs whfm visiting the other places was dis· cussed and It was the sense of the meeting that such courtesy should ce extended as far as oosslble. The Pan Pacific Congress held a convention at the same time and place and they have under consideration the establishing of per manent headquarters in some state In the United States, possibly New York, and the suggestion was made to the mountain climbing clubs to have desk room there where any one Interested could se· cure information regarding the work done. trips taken and contem· plated, and could read the magazines and bulletins which would be flied. Digitized by Google Ii-I Th<' owM 1tai11ca :,.JQTE8. PERMANENT FUND. Article XI of our new constitution pro- 1·iJes that "all membership dues, Initiation fees and gifts, unless oth· erwise stipulated by the donor, together with such amounts from the organization funds as the board may direct. shall constitute a per manent fund. This shall be safely and separately Invested and the income only used." The nucleus of the new fund is $33.00, now draw ing interest. �IOl'NTAI:-.EERS AND BOY SCOUTS. )lajor E. S. Ingraham, veteran mountaineer and Scout Commli,sioner of the Boy Scouts of America In Seattle, asks the co-ooeration of the )lountaineers in his work in the latter organization, and no movement of reeent years is more worthv of our encouragement. The three-fold aim of the Scouts is, strengthening the body, train ing the mind, and bullrling up the character, and is based upon the practical idea of leading a boy to be thorough, honorable, and alert In his nlay and to be thoughtful of others. It shows him how to gain skill in play by learning many useful things. It relies on the psychol ogical fact that the bm·. with his Irresistible curiosity, turns in fun to inquire into many things that have a practical and educational value. The boys by be<·oming Scouts have an opportunity to learn wood craft, gain knowledge of birds and trees, learn the secrets of the woods. to swim. paddle a canoe. and rlo many other things boys lo\·e to do. At all times they have over them a Scout Master, whose cre dentials have been approver!. and who is really their physical. mental, and character trainer. He watches over them and guides them In their play and their various aetlvlties, trains them in alertness, self reliance, and otl:er Scout virtues. His aim is 1.0 turn out useful, self reliant, alert, honest citizens. The Scout "oath" or promise says: "On my honor I will do my best-1 . To do my duty to God and my country, and to obey the Scout Law ; 2. To help other people at all times; a To keep myself physically strong, mentally awake, and morally straight." The Scout Law has twelve planks, and If a boy obeys them be will be an excellent Scout. The points are: I. A Scout is trustworthy. 7. A Scout ts obedient. 2. A Scout Is loyal. 8. A Scout is cheerful. 3. A Scout is helpful. 9. A Scout is thrifty. t. A Scout is friendly. 10. A Scout Is brave. 5. A Scout is courteous. 11. A Scout ts clean. Ii. A Scout is kind. 12. A Scout Is reverent. Major Ingraham's greatest need just now Is for men to look after the patrols. Mr.. Jack :'llorrlll, a )lountaineer, has become an enthu- Digitized by Google The JI 01111tai11ccr (j,; siastlc Scout :\laster and other volunteers for like services are de sired. Surely there Is a great work for the Mountaineers In co-operat ing In the splendid work of making good citizens, and training good material for future Mountaineers.- The Research Committee of the 1'.atlonal Geographic Society has made an appropriation of $5,000 from the research fund to continue the studies of the Alaska glaciers which were conducted by the so ciety in 1909 and 1910. The work this year was In charge of Prof. Ralph S. Tarr of Cornell University and Prof. Lawrence Martin of the t:nlversity of Wisconsin. - While :\It. McKinley is the highest peak In North America It ls also remarkable In having the longest snow and Ice slope of any of the world's great mountains. This mountain demands about 18,000 to 19,000 feet of snow and Ice work, while .:\lount Everest, the world's highest peak, has a perpetual snow line of between 17,000 and 18,000 feet, leaving only 11,000 to 12,000 feet of snow. The Parker-Browne expedition to .\fount J\l cKin!ey spent fifty nights continuously on snow and ice, and experienced difficulties as great in attaining an elevation of 10,300 feet as any to be encountered in reaching an altitude of 20,000 feet In the Himalayas. - The Sierra Club of California has recently accomplished Important work In the planting of trout in fishless lakes and streams. The club took up this work several years ago, co-operating with the California Fish and Game Commission. In a few years the regions planted will become a veritable "fisherman's paradise". A large sum was appro priated for the work, which enabled them to equip two pack trains with specially built cans and other- necessary apparatus. The "Mountaineer" department of the Boston Transcript, con ducted by .John Ritchie, .Jr., is a veritable clearing house of mountain Information. - .:\liss Dora Keen, who attempted the ascent of .\I t. Blackburn In Alaska last summer and was compelled to return on account of In sufficient supplies, has a splendid record as a climber in the high Alps In the summer of 1909. In summarizing and contrasting her 16 climbs, she ranks the Matterhorn as the hardest. beeause it was so long un der the conditions that they had, and was hard all the time, but the Chamonix guides do not admit that It is harder than the Aiguilles. In general, except for the .\latterhorn, the ascents at Chamonix were Digitized by Google (;6 Tlze Jl 01111tai11ccr harder, more interesting, and more of an anxious strain than those at Zerruatt. - The frontispiece of this Issue was done by !\Ir. A. H. Denman and !\I r. A. H. Barnesof Tacoma. - "Awards for mcuntaln climbing achievements," is the novel an nouncement made uy the Swedish Olympic Committee, In connection with the fifth i;eries of International Olympic Games which will oc cupy a month the coming summer-June 29 till July 22-at Stockholm. The Swedish committee has decided to award a gold Olympic medal for the finest performances during the years 1908-1911 In game shoot ing and mountain ascent, respectively. This Is an Innovation In that it places mountaineering very properly In the sports and fortunately In a way free from the arbitrary rules that so often give athletic awards to the most tricky rather than to the most meritorious. The leading alpine clubs in the world have the right to propose candidates for these prizes. The judging will he carried out by a special jury, the decision of which shall be In the hands of the Swedish Olympk Committee at latest by June 1. - Mr. P. M. '.\lcGregor was the l\lountaineer representative on the outing of the Alpine Club of Canada for 1911. It Is hoped that a reg ular exehange of guests with other- clubs may be instituted. The Sierra Club Bulletins of 1911 are splendid mountaineering journals and show the great work that organization Is doing. The feature of the January, 191 1, number Is "Cathedral Peak and the Tuo lumne '.\leadows," by John !\Iuir. This article Is an extract from the author's journal. "My First Summer in the Sierra," published this spring hy Houghton. l\llfflln Company, Boston, with Illustrations by the author and Herbert W. Gleason.- Refreshing as a mountain breeze comes Prof. '.\leany's collection of poems, "Mountain Campfires''. Most of the verses were written for the '.\lountalneer campfires of the various outings and will be wel t·omed by the Mountaineers as a delightful reminder of charming days In the open and delightful hours of rest around the evening fires. The poems Include a sonnet to !\It. Rainier, poems to l\lt. Adams and Glacier Peak, charming verses to the mountain flowers, trees and lakes. The book Is from the press of Lowman and Hanford and is a dainty volume bound in Japanese wood veneer with an Interesting poster cover design. - Beautifully Illustrated by photographs and paintings by the author, "Our Greatest Mountain" is just from the press. The literary side Is Digitized by Google '/'lie ;\/o1111tai11ccr {i'l' largely by A. H. Denman, of Tacoma, Including "Outdoors In Western Washington." "The Mountaineers," and "The :\lountaln," incorporating Prof. Meany·s poem "The Law of the Hills". Mr. Barnes Is to be con· gratulated upon the artistic beauty and general excellence of work· manshlp. The book is destined to exert a wide influence and will prove i. valuable addition to any moun- tain lover's library. A Eecond edition of "The l'l-l ountain that was 'God'," by John H. \Vllllams. of Tacoma. ts just. from the press of G. P. Putnam's Sons, New York and London. A copy recently received shows Interesting additions both In the text and the illustrations. We predict for the volume an even more extended popularity than the earlier edition and Increased Influence In attracting attention to our national park and the great "Monarch of the Coast". RESOLUTIONS. WHEREAS: Our Almighty Father has called to rest our associate, and WHEREAS: Frank S. Southard was an earnest, uctive, and helpful member of The Mountaineers from the beginning of the club's organ· lzation to the hour of his death; therefore be It RESOLVED: By the Board of Directors In meeting assembled for this special purpose, that we give expression to our appreciation of his noble qualities of manhood, to our sorrow over his being called up the last long trnll, and to our sympathy with members of his bereaved fam ily; and be it further Rl<:::SOLVED: That we Invite all the members of The Mountaineers to assemble at the time and place designated for the funeral that we may give to our departed friend- a last tribute of respect. WHEREAS; The fifth annual outing of the Mountaineers Is about to close ; and, WHEREAS: This outing has been In all essentials highly pleas· urable owing not only to the scenic character of the route selected but also to the excellent camp management; and. WHEREAS: The trip has presented unusual and unexpected dif· flcultles calling for exceptional services and sacrifice on the part of many committees and Individuals ; therefore, be It RESOLVED: That we acknowledge our appreciation particularly: FIRST: To those who originally gathered the Information and projected the route. Digitized by Google GS Th e ,l[ 01111tai11ar SECOND: To the present outing committee whose untiring en· ergy and painstaking efforts have overcome all obstacles and brought the outing to a successful consummation. THIRD : To David McColl, the sheep herder, Albert Bertsch!, the forest ranger, aud Hugo Kuhnhausen of Lewis, who rendered In valuable services in overcoming unforeseen difficulties. FOll RTH: To those who accompanied the pack train In to Lang mire Springs and gave freely of their time and energy in outlining the best possible course. FIFTH : To the scouts and all others who were called upon or volunteered to make extra trips tor the benefit of the party or of In dividuals for whose welfare the party felt responsible. SIXTH : To the doctor and nurses who rendered gratuitous pro fessional services. SEVE:--JTH: To the program committee and all who In any way contributed to the camp-fire program, especially to our gifted pres ident whose Indian lore and nature verses have added a peculiar charm and interest to our evening gatherings. EIGHTH: To the packers to whom fell the arduous labor of transporting our provisions and dunnage over well-nigh Impassable trails and completed the task without accident of any kind. NI:-;TH : To the chef and his capable assistants. "who worked while their companions slept", and whose sklll, industry and splendid management added to their enviable record gained on previous trips. AND Fl.:'\ALLY : To the many who have not otherwise been men tioned but who have cheerfully and unselfishly given of their strength and talent to make this outing one of the most memorable the club has ever undertaken ; and be it further RESOLVED, That these resolutions be made a part of the records of the dub and printed in the official publication and that copies be sent to Mr. '.\icColl, '.\Ir. Bertsch! and :.t r. Kuhnhausen. ROBERT E. MORITZ WINONA BAILEY GERTRUDE INEZ STREATOR A. H. BRACKETT WINIFRED MACFARLAND Committee on Resolutions Digitized by Google Th e M 01111tai11ccr Ii!) C< )RRESPONI>EXCK When In Seatt le on his way to Alaska, Secretary of the Interior Walter L. Fisher asked Mr. Asahel Curtis to prepare a list of suggestions for the Rainier National Park. Sueh a list was prepared and submitted to him. Some such plan of action should be decided ·u pon and a strong committee put at work to see that It Is carried out. They should have the support of the club members until the l\Ioun talneers are reeognlzed as a power that must be reckoned with In all affairs 1>ertalnlng to the mountains. As Seeretary Fisher writes, It Is necessary to get the people or the state of Washington Interested In this and get the approprla· tlons through Congress. The Secretary of the Interior has recoru· mended appropriations for the park many times, but there has been no support of his recommendations and tht•y have failed of eongress ional approval. A recommendation has been Included in the Secre tary's report this year. It Is now up to the people or the state that it does not rail In Congress. November 9, 1911 Dear Sir: I have been examining your communications of September 7th and 8th, with regard to Rainier :>:ational Park, and am very mueh inter ested In them. I find, however. that practically all of your suggestions will require runds that are not now available. Indeed, the entire ques tion of what Is to be done at the Rainier Park depends so very largely upon the action of the next Congress with regard to the appropriations and also the creation of the 1>roposed Bureau of :--atlonal Parks, that I suggest that you take it up with the people in the State of Wash ington who are Interested and see what can be done to seeure from Congr('SS the nec!'ssary legislation and appropriations. It will give me very great pleasure. Indeed, if Congress enables us to put the national park administration on an efficient basis. and If adequate funds are supplied to de,·elop these parks as they should be developed. I believe that Inspector Keys, of this department, Is now In the Rainier Park making an Investigation, the result or which will be re ported ror our use before the Appropriations Committ<'e. Thanking you for your kind expressions with regard to myself. am, Sincerely yours. (Signed) WALTER L. FISl-rnR. Secretary Suggestions for work In the Rainier National Park In the order of their Importance: 1st. The creation of a Bureau of .:\'atlonal Parks and the appoint· ment of a :>:ational Park Commission. 2nd. The organization of a definite project for the construction of trails and roads within the National Park In order that all work done Digitized by Google Th,· .\! o 1111 ta i11 ccr in its dPn·loprnPnt bP toward some dPfinlte end, and be of permanent value. This projP!'!. should <'Onsist of two separate divisions, one for trail work and one for roads. The trail work seems to be of first im portan<·P. for at un'sPnt the nark is ora<'tically at the mercy of a fire and lal'!w arPas art> closed to all travel. Th<' following nroje<'t is suggn;ted for the park, the subjects being gi n•n in ll1C' following order of their lmportan<'e: lsl. The opPnlng of th<' old trails on the mountain, where such trails an• on thL· g,•nPral 1i11P of travel. and the establishment of new trails to enable tlw nark rangc•rs to go from one park on the mountain to a11othPr without making the long detour to the lower valleys now ne<·esrnry. This trail work S<'<'IUS very necessary to afford fire pro tN·tion, for as tht' trails now exist it would. in many cases. take a day 01· two to reac·h a tire that was only a few miles away. A proper system of trails would trlpll' the value of the rangns. 2nd. Widening the tH'esPnt road from the park entrance to Para· dise Val11•y to a width of sixtL•en feet and the construction of parapets at dani:;erous ooints, to prevent autos and stages from going off grade. (This rP<·ommendation is mack because it Is now practically re<'Og· n.ized th11t this road is C'l'eath1g a new situation in national parks af fairs. and that it will 1101 Ion'!; be nossible to keep the autos off the mo1111tain road ahove the glader. The fact that the park Is close to two U� l'ities and that a large auto traffic Is already making use of the road to the i:;lacin, is in a measure forcing the situation.) At present this road Is not safe for the combined traffic that Is permitted to usP it. that or sta�n; and autos. The road was built as a stage road and lat<'r autos wt> re ,wrmitted to use it. Now that such permission has heen given the only safe course to take Is to make It wide enough to aceommodate hoth kinds of travel. :lrd. The extension of the present road from Paradise Valley along the route suggestPd by Eugene Rickse<'ker through Magnetic Park and around the Cowlitz Glacier to Cowlitz Park on the southeast side of the mountain. This road should be connected with the road system of Yakima County to enable the people of eastern \Vashlngton to visit the Xational Park. 4th. The extension ot the present road from some point above Longmire through Van Trump Park to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground. This would open up one 1>ark that is now Inaccessible to any form of travel except afoot across Ice-fields and deep canyons. ;;th. The <·onstruction of a road up the valley of the Carbon to the ice-fields and then,·e to Spray Park on the northwest slope and Into lloralne Park on the north slope of the mountain. This country Is now reached only by a system of trails that is wholly Inadequate for fire protection or tourist travel. The north side Is almost lnaccessable at !lresent, and In some cases If a ranger saw a fire when it started lt would be two days before he could get to It. A svstem of roads as given above would require years to complete and if the work was started the road would naturally continue all Digitized by Google The Mo1111tai11ccr 71 around the mountain. Before such an extensive road system could be completed it would be necessary to build a verv complete system of trails and It would not be advisable to make them along the line of the proposed road. A shelter should be erected at Camp :'.\t ulr at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Such a hut could be constructed from the rock that Is on the ground. The cement necessary for such construction could be packed nearly to Camp :'.\lulr on horses If a short piece of trail was constructed at the base of Timberline Ridge. Sanitary conditions should obtain at all of the mountain camps. At present there Is much refuse scattered around and large plies of manure are taken out of the stables at Longmire Springs and scattered over the ground. There have been many cases of fevu reported among visitors to the park this summer. I believe that a sewer system will soon be absolutely necessary, not only at Longmire but at the moun tain camps. I am not repeating the s1>lendld recommendations of Mr. :\latthes regarding the guides. It meets with mv approval in every wav and Is so much better coming from a man who is entirely free from any local prejudice. I believe that the guides, who at present are located on the south side, would welcome such reg11latlon. It would serve to clear up the situation. In the matter of the patrol of the park it would seem advisable to have a company of soldiers stationed there during the tourist sea son. On this point Mr. Hall would be the best advised. The Moun taineers got a bill through Congress permitting the Secretary of War to loan a company to the Secretary of the Interior for that purpose, but I believe they were never detailed. At the present time tourists are not allowed to pick flowers, yet stock Is permitted to graze in the park. This has caused much ad verse comment. It would scarcely seem that the little value of milk at the camp In Paradise would justify the grazing of cows there. Digitized by Google The Mo1111tai11ccr THE l\TOL;NTAINl<�ERS, 1911-12 OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS Prof. Edmond S. )leany, President...... 402fi 10th Ave. N. E. Dr. E. F. Stevens, Vice-president...... 15 05 East Madison Chas. �r. Farrer, Secretary ...... 522 Pioneer Building .John A. Best, Jr., Assistant Secretary ...... 433 New York Block P. )I . :11cG regor, Treasurer ...... Cobb Building Miss Winona Bailey, Historian ...... 16 08 E. Union l\llss Lulie Nettleton. Editor ...... 18 06 8th Ave. West George E. Wright ...... 1227 38th Ave. !'I:. L. A. Xelson ...... Hazel . Wash. H. C. Belt ...... 414 16th Ave. :N. Charles Albertson ...... The Chelsea Dr. H. B. Hinman ...... 260ii Baker Ave., Everett, Wash. A. H. Denman ...... fi00-3 :'-lat'! Bank of Com. Bldg., Tacoma, Wash. Roy Hurd ...... 1522 6th Ave. SECRETARY'S REPORT During the past season, the membership of the Mountaineers has increased from 314 to 376 and never before were there so many active and interested members, able and willing to do a share of the work necessary in conducting our organization. The work to be done by the din'erent. commit.tees was neeessarilv augmented, but It was oer formed willingly, che<>rfully and successfully. The local branch at Everett was also active in keeping up Its large membership and in organizing local walks and some very successful outings. Early In the season a special committee framed a new constitu tion for the club. As adopted, among other matters of lmoortance, It provides that local branches shall retain a portion of their receipts for necessary expenditures. In outside matters the club has taken an active Interest in mauy undertakings, some of which were commenced last vear. The com mittee appointed at the request of Francois B. Mathes, of the U. S. G. S., to aid him In seleeting names for many points of Interest in the Rain ier National Park, continued their work. \V e also continued our ef forts to obtain a state nark on the summit of Mt. Constitution and have taken aetion concerning the proposed bureau of national parks and the bills to Include the King and Kern River valleys in the Se quoia National Forest, in California. Following our endorsement of Congressman Humphrey's proposed bill J)ro ,·iding for a change in the status of the Olympic )lonument. makin� it a national park, a special committee was apolnted to meet Digitized by Google The .M01 111tai11ecr 73 Secretary Fisher In Seattle to discuss the situation with him. Later, our C"ommlttee, together with representatives from the Seattle Com mercial Club, Southwestern Washington Development Association, Ho· qulam Commercial Club, Olympic )liners' Qulnault Improvement Asso ciation and Tacoma Commercial Club, adopted the following sugges tions for a plan of action In regard to the Olympic Monument and pre sented them to the Secretary of the Interior. They advised : !st. The Investigation of the mineral resources of the monument by a member of the U. S. G. S. 2nd. Determination by a committee of western men who are fa miliar with the country in the proposed park, as to proper boundaries. 3rd. Preparation through Congressman Humphrey, of a b11l to be Introduced in Congress, making the monument a national park, with a clause providing for prospecting and mining, the cutting of timber for mining purposes and the development of water power for the same purpose. Our club was represented at the Mountain Climbers' Convention In Honolulu by :'.\Ir. Thurston. CHARLES l\l. FARRER, Secretary TREASURER'S REPORT 1910-1911 Receipts Balance In Seattle National Bank ...... $1 ,140.81 Balance In Bank of California (Outing Fund) ...... li2.18 Financial Secretary (Dues) ...... 96i.OO Secretary ...... 16.00 Local \V alks ...... 123.06 Advertising In 1910 Annual ...... 96.i5 Advertising In Prospectus and Bulletin ...... 88.00 :'.\llscellaneous ...... 8.50 Refund from Railroad (Mt. Adams preliminary trip) 10.40 Balance from Mt. Adams Outing ...... 42.53 $2.665.23 Expenditures Annual Magazine, 1910 ...... $ 5:i5.40 Stamps for Annual ...... 30.00 L. A. Nelson, salary 4 months ...... 120.00 Florists ...... 20.:lO l\lajor E. S. Ingraham (trip to !\It. Rainier) ...... 12.40 Slides ...... 66.35 Printing Prospectus and Bulletin ...... 13 t .8;; Printing notices and stationery ...... 83.70 Addressing and malling, stam1>s, etc ...... 54.23 Stamped envelopes ...... 30.00 :\!lscellaneous ...... 19.90 Glacier Peak reunion, 1910 (Outing Fund) ...... 10.00 Digitized by Google The Jlo1111tai11ecr Chas. M. Farrer, trip to Mt. Rainier (Outing Fund) 17.20 Photos for packers (Outing Fund)...... 7.10 Investment, City Improvement 7'/, Bonds ...... 1,042.66 $2,201.09 Balance in Seattle National Bank ...... $ 245.83 Balance In Bank of California (Outing Fund) ..... 207.91 Balance in Bank for Savings ( Permanent Fund).. 33.00 $ 486.74 Outstanding checks, Oct. 14, 1911...... 22.60 Total cash on hand...... $ 464.14 Audited: Respectfully submitted, C. G. CLARKE P. i\l. :\lcGREGOR, H. R. LEAR Treasurer REPORT OF Ot:TING COMMITTEE UPON OUTING OF 1911 When the Outing Committee as at present constituted took charge In the early spring of this year, the task set before them was such as to make them consider whether a less ambitious trip should not be undertaken. The plan of the trip, however, had already been an nounced and so It had to be put through. The party started numbering sixty-six, but the illness of one com pelled two to turn back after the third clay, leaving sixty-four mem bers who completed the trip. This number, with three cooks and six packers, made a total party of seventy-three. Of the sixty-four mem· bers who completed the trip, thirty-six were women and twenty-eight were men, while thirty-six had not been on any previous Mountaineer summer outing. The trip as nearl:v as can be computed covered a circuit of 483 miles, of which 266 were by railroad. 55 by boat and 162 were on foot. Of the 162 miles walked, 33 were over wagon roads, 76 were over good trails and 5:{ miles were over Indian trails, animal trails and no trail at all. While we were following the 53 miles of poor trail and no trail, we crossed the summit of the Cascades nine times and followed the summit itself for considerable distances on two occasions. Dur ing the trip the party climbed in the aggregate over 20,000 feet. The party was In camp 21 nights in 16 different camps, six of which were in the upper meadow country In close proximity to snow. Upon only one occasion, the day of the climb of Mt. Adams, was the party after daylight in reaching camp, and there was no occasion when any part of the commissary or dunnage was after sunset in be ing delivered at camp. We had no accidents of any kind and but two cases of illness. The only serious illness was that of one of our packers. Mr. Paul Kuhn hausen. We are glad to anounce that Mr. Kubnhausen has recently reported that he has recovered from his illness. In the matter of the finanees of the trip, the amount received from the members of the outing, less amounts refunded to them for various Digitized by Google 75 The M 01111tai11ecr reasons, totals $2,938.20; while the disbursements less various miscel laneous receipts aggregate $2,919.77; leaving on hand In the Outing Fund the sum of $191.01, being $18.43 more than at the beginning of the year. Detailed statements of all receipts and disbursements are on file with l)oth the secretary and the treasurer and all vouchers are on file with the treasurer and any member Is welcome to examine them if he so desires. Respectfully submitted, H. C_ BELT, Chairman REPORT OF LOCAL WALKS COi\lMITTEE The local walks have increased In interest, number and attendance throughout the ten and one-half months covered by this report. Owing to this, your committee has been able to add to the range of country traveled and to the variety of trips oft'ered. On several walks there were Interesting ten-minute talks and a number of the trips were to objects of historical or &pecial signfflcance. The four special outings averaged 87 people. The average attend· ance for 23 Sunday walks was 83 and the average distance 11 miles. For 15 Saturday walks the average was 22 and the distance 5 miles. There was a total increase of 60'/o in the number of Mountaineers participating in these walks. ROY HURD EDWARD W. ALLEN CHAS. ALBERTSON Augustine & Kyer's good coiree and other dainties form a delight· ful feature of the Mountaineer local walks and outings. Digitized by Google Sl,!\L\1 ARY OF LOCAL WALKS ..\ l - tallL'() No. \ Date. Route. Lend Pr Uls- tHI,•ntl·H'l� < •o,n 27. 1910 -, 94 No,·. I T-nf,·,,r"lty. Pontiac and LakP \\·ashl11g-ton . I'. M . .'.11 cGreg-or 5 fi!I '$ 16 n5 \ llt'C. 11.3. lnlO •Biller Lake, l'nlversitv r. rnu11 W. A. ROSS H. A. NOBLE Aut. Cen'I Pau. Arreat General Paa1en1er Aaent Seattle, Wuh. St Paul, Mina. PI,J<_;ASE PATRONIZE THE ADVERTISERS ANIJ MENTION THI-: l\!Ol"NTAINl�ER Digitized by Google SUPREME '" tl.e Traveling -World To Travel East on 'Ifie Olympian THE"ALL-STEEL" TRAIN OF ''THE NEW STEEL TRAIL" u to travel amid every convenience ancl luxury of the tw.:ntieth c.:ntury. Unique in its conception and' sumptuous in its appointments, "'lire Olympian'' represents the very heigbth of accomplishment in railroad equipment and service. Factors that appeal to the critical and discerning passenger are the distrib ution of .. Olym;,ian-grams.'' giving bulletins of the important events of the day. and the afternoon serving of tea in the lounge observation car-which occasion is presided over by one of the lady travelers. Other features are the scrupulous train clean- liness; made possible by the vacuum cleaning system: the advan tage of long distance telephone connection at stations: the con venience of library. writing room. barber shop. bath room, clothes pressin�. men's club room and buffet: and the· comfort of berths that really are .. longer, higher and w�der .. than on any other road. Traveling becomes a pleasure on this palatial train as it speeds onward over "the short est route to the East ... Leaves Seattle for OlicagoDaily at lo: J s A. M. Cliicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound Ry. GEO W HIBBARD Ccocr.1 P,.,cn�cr Agent. Suttle R M CALKINS. T ,:.ff,c M�n�gcr Pl.EASE PATRONIZE THF. ADVERTISERS AND MF.NTION THE MOUNTAINEER D1g1t1zed by Google Mountaineers' Clothing Cravenette''Duxbak" Wa terproof We call your particular attention to our extensive line of suitable outing apparel for women "Duxbak" Boot Dressing Waterproof Boots Yo urs Piper & Taft Quality /o r Incorporated at Fa ir New Location After February First Quality 1117 Second Avenue Prices "Mountain Camp Fires" By PROFESSOR EDMOND S. MEANY C]fWe announce for publica tion in the month of November, "Mountain Camp Fires," being the collected poems of Professor Edmond S. Meany of the University of \N ashington. fj Bound in wood veneer. With front ispiece by Curtis. Price $1.00 net. Postage 8c additional. PLF:.\SE P.-\ THO="IZE Tilt•: .\ ll\· t·:RTIR�;RS .-\Nil ME:-.TJON THE MOl'N1'.-\lNEER Digitized by Google C. C. Filson (]Manufa cturer of Waterproof Khaki, English Gabar dine, Hunting Coats, Women's Outing Clothing, Sleeping Bags, Blankets, Wool Batts, etc. (JI All kinds of Bedding and Clothing used for Outdoor life. (JI References: Every Mountaineer patron. 1011 First Avenue, Seattle O O t That Stands the Work Th e B -Most Practical and Popular No rman & Bennett's Every Mountaineer .Knows Its Value A, Brown Brothers 722 First Avenue Corner Columbia Seattle Seattle Tent and Awning Co. Manufacturers and Jobbers-Silk Ten ts Made to Order for Mountaineers and Sportsmen- Sleeping Bags and Tarpaulins Spring Street and We stern Avenue-Seattle PLEAi-;i.; P.\TR( INJZE THF: All\'ERTISER:, A:-;f) :VIF:NTION THE MOUNTAINEER Digitized by Google Printing and Engraving Th e Shop that Satis/ies The Lumbermen's Printing 147-148 Henrv • s C Offipany Building . lfl eatt J e Tt ltphonn - Sunset Main 3025 and Independent 3650 The Seattle National Bank Second Avenue and Cherry Street Resources Over $16,000,000.00 OFFICERS DIRECTORS E. \N. A NllREWS, Pr,·sidrn I J. \V. SrANc;u:R, / "icc-Prcsid,·11/ ]. FvRTH, Cl111ir111<111 E. G. A)tES, l,.iu-Prcsidc11/ E. W. ANutu:ws F. K. Snt:n:. / 'icc-Pr,·sidc11t E. G. A�IES R. V ..·\ NK F.',\", c,,sl,i.-, R. V. ANKENY C. L. LA �t rlNG, .../ssista11t Cashi.-r llER �IAN CHAPIN H. C. ?.-IAcDoNALD, Assista11/ Cashi.-r C. L. LA GRAl'E, Assis/1111/ Cashi,·r DANIEi. KEI.LEHF.R Wr.-1. S. PEACHEY, Assisla11/ Cashier F. K. STRUVE Mountaineer Annual 1911 Mt. Adams Nu mber On sale at the office of the Financial Secretary JOHN A. BEST, Jr., 433 New York Block Vo ls . 1, 11 and 111 on sale at $I .25 per set Pl;E..\SE PATRONIZE THE ,\D\' J-:RTISERS Al\"ll �IENTION THE l\Hll'NT..\INF.El1 Digitized by Google