LA SHOW

FUNCTION AND PERFORMANCE MEET FASHION

he Los Angeles Textile Show, up of booth space in the Penthouse came because the French exhibitors held is the only North American Pavilion tended to be somewhat were moved into Fashion Theatre tradeshow that offers both a confusing to attendees, several Pavilion with the Italians to create a TFrench and Italian Pavilion, along exhibitors were both surprised and European contingency. Michael Touati, with its traditional assortment of pleased with the amount and quality of owner of Nodis stated, “We were upstairs American-based fabric companies. the traffic they received in their booths. before, but the ambiance here in the For this season, the show also added Some that the more open booth Fashion Theatre Pavilion is much better. a new Korean Pavilion, which increased space was more inviting and less It has the feel of Premiere Vision and the number of exhibitors by 16%, giving intimidating than being in a more Preview New York, which we also attend. buyers an even more global perspective private showroom. My reason for coming back was that my of the latest knitted fabrics. These moves “This was the best show we’ve had agent here in Los Angeles has been helped to boost the number of buyers’ at here in six years! We saw many people doing a tremendous job here on the the show by 7% for the three-day event who were interested in our West Coast, and he encouraged us to at the California Market Centre. organic/ecological story, “ said Jim exhibit again. This way, I can have For this show, there was another Jacabecy, president of Green-Spun appointments and visit directly with my change that created anxiety for some Textured Knits. “It was non-stop - customers, so we felt the need to be exhibitors. Many exhibitors were moved absolutely amazing!” here again to develop additional from their private showroom space they A number of exhibitors returned to the business with new people.” had for past shows to booth space in Show this year after a hiatus. Nodis, a the reconfigured Penthouse Pavilion. Paris, France based exhibitor had a Fabric trends A number of previous exhibitors were booth in the Penthouse Pavilion a few The textile trends that were most sought unsure how this change would impact years ago, but had not exhibited at out at the show included a wide range of their traffic. Although the “maze-like” set- recent shows. The decision to return novelty and surface interest fabrics.

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Floral designs by French designers Nodis example, on the fashion side, what we’re seeing are the yoga-inspired apparel companies wanting to offer a legitimate technical story for products that traditionally were more fashion or casual sportswear oriented. They want to maintain a fashion appearance, but now are interested in having a more technical tint to it. That’s a way that we can add value for them. Merino apparel is extremely functional, and well suited for lifestyle apparel.” Besides Adidas, other key companies in attendance at the show included: Lucky Brand, Victoria’s Secret, BCBG, Bebe, Kevan Hall, Ann Ferriday, Michael Levine, and Karen Kane. Knitting International takes a look at the types of Anything with fabrics that were presented at the show embellishment by a variety of the global supplier generated a great exhibitors. deal of interest. Beadwork, Novelty knits crewelwork, and embroideries were fashion side, and possibly expand into Los Angeles-based knitter Pacific Coast very popular. Along with ribbon- more lifestyle apparel. Knitting is a 15 year old company which decorated fabrics, , eyelets and Designer , a first time exhibitor specialises in novelty knits for the piques, pleated, seersuckered, and at the show, came to Los Angeles to contemporary market. According to puckered looks, burn-out fabrics on promote the company’s line of Merino Mike Tolouee, owner, the company uses sheer grounds were also well received. lifestyle fabrics to the fashion market. novelty , such as micro Modal, Popular prints included everything from Jose Fernandez, North American director Modal, , Supima and some small polka-dots, to liberty-inspired for Designer Textiles, said, “Surprisingly, performance yarns, as well as a florals, to medium-sized forals, to fine- we have also seen a number of our variety of fine yarns. It also provides line floral designs. customers from the outdoor industry here moisture management properties through Fashion buyers were showing interest at the show, which was unexpected!” the processes. in more functional lifestyle fabrics, which Fernandez continued, “To the point Tolouee noted that currently the trend are crossing over from the outdoor about functionality, and its cross-over is toward sheer fabrics. “These are performance market. And, companies into mainstream fashion markets, what cotton/, but they are very sheer, like Adidas, which typically is focused we’re seeing from our performance see-though, and the finishing is very on the outdoor/fitness markets, came to customers is that they want to move difficult. A lot of people import these from the show to get inspiration from the more into lifestyle apparel. For Europe, because they are more exotic.

Fabric trend area in the French/Italian Pavilion. LA Textile show lobby area in the California Market Centre

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Samples of Merino in the company’s Missoni-inspired knit prints, tie-dyed stretch , burn- fabrics. These fabrics are made from outs, and fabrics with surface interest, space-dyed yarns and are used for a including glittered, ribbon-embellished diverse range of apparel. Popular and sequined knits. The company print patterns mentioned included primarily services the swimwear and paisleys and medium sized florals. dance wear markets. B.N.B Int’l Textiles Inc. is a west coast converter/importer of stretch Merino wool knitwear fabrics. This family owned business has New Zealand-based circular knitting mill been in Designer Textiles is a specialist in every operation for stage of Merino wool production. The 55 years, company started as a cotton mill, until We do some of and is now in quota restrictions on cotton made it the small exclusive its third difficult to continue in the cotton things that nobody else generation. business. Jose Fernandez, Director, in town wants to do.” BNB imports North America, explained, “We wanted to The company also fabrics from be able to compete in the domestic U.S. offers a line of pointelle all over the market, so we started working with fabrics. These pointelles merino fibre. Historically, the fibre went to are 50s/60s cotton or Europe to be used in wovens for fine cotton/Modal, and suitings. So, our mill marked the first lyocell. Tolouee explained, “We’re also time that the fine New Zealand Merino moving somewhat towards wool blends fibre was used for knits. Also, it’s the first (i.e. wool/cotton blends). We do our time that the New Zealand growers and own developments in this area and it’s the New Zealand Merino wool industry very costly, but we do it for a few of our made an effort to distinguish their fibre customers. We do offer some 100% and their products from Merino wool wool, but we import these fabrics from grown elsewhere in the world, rather than Italy. Basically, the wool blends that we just allowing it to go to auction, and get produce here are blends containing up blended with other , and used to 20% wool. Because of finishing primarily in wovens, “ limitations here, we are very limited on world - Japan, China, Korea, etc. It also Initially, Designer Textiles targeted the what can be done domestically. We also develops some domestic goods, working majority of its core business towards do special things like burn-out, and with partners to develop knits and stretch companies in the outdoor industry. some very fine fabrics similar to those wovens. The company specialises in Today, the company is firmly entrenched made in Italy.” /finishing goods, based on in the outdoor market, working with Daechun co., Ltd, a Seoul, Korea- customer requirments. It also stocks a companies like Arc’Teryx, Ibex, and based a dyeing/printing/finishing variety of fabrics in its warehouse in Los Smartwool. Basically, Designer Textiles company, works with both knits and Angeles. BNB is very popular with has become a key source for apparel wovens. The company has knitting and novice designers because of its low manufacturer’s in the outdoor market partners that it works with on a minimums. The company offers a broad offering Merino wool products. regular basis to provide a variety of range of knit constructions, including According to Fernandex, the purpose fabrics requested by its customers. acetate blended knits, tricots, interlocks, for Designer Textiles’ participation in the According to a representative for the novelty fabrics, stretch laces, Los Angeles Textile Show was to take company, many people were interested popcorn knits, stretch laces, Hologram Merino wool into the fashion world. He

Missoni inspired knit fabrics from Daechun

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explained, “The environmental conditions stretch and non-stretch high quality are important right now. “There are in New Zealand leads toward producing fabrics with a large in-stock inventory florals, rythmics, African prints, laces, a finer , cleaner fiber, whiter fiber, available for fast delivery, including stripes, etc., but mainly we are working and a longer staple, all of which allows imported goods from China, Japan, in the colourways that are important for us to do some things a bit more easily Korea, India, and Italy. that season. Right now vibrant colours than can be done with fiber grown The company deals directly with any are more important than pastels. The elsewhere in the world. Over the last ten size manufacturer. Since it offers low fabrics are printed on the gray goods. years, we’ve seen a resurgence of minimums and provides world-wide And the product will come out Merino, which has been driven by taking shipping, BHN has become a popular completely different, depending on our fiber and using it in unique ways. “ resource for start-up designers and what type of base cloth is being For the fashion market, Designer small manufacturers. The company’s printed. So, even with the same print, Textiles presented new and interesting fabrics are suitable for all types of the products will look completely weights and knit constructions in Merino clothing, from evening to casual different.” KI wool. Fernandez noted, “You can sportswear for both men and women, occasionally find a knitter to do a as well as fancy and casual dressing Merino , or they’ll do a Merino for children. fabric for their fall line. But, what you’re At the L.A. Textile Show, the company not seeing is the depth and breadth of presented a variety of trendy knit fabrics that pretty much represent every fabrics in , acetates, , lightweight knit construction out there. , many blended with spandex, We have interlocks, jerseys, piques, including fish nets, sweater knits, ribs, pontés, crepes, etc. We offer spider , burn-outs, stripes, about every possible knit structure jacquards, laces, and animal prints. made with Merino.” One of the key benefits of Merino is French prints the comfort level provided. It can be Nodis is a 32-year-old second worn right next to the skin comfortably, generation print business based in in a wide range of temperatures. Paris, France. The company offers a Because it can be made into variety of printed designs on both knit lightweight fabrics, it’s also comfortable and woven base cloths. Working with in warm weather. Fernandez noted, knitting and weaving partners, Nodis “We’ve known for centuries that wool provides fabric printing, based on the works, and that’s why Irish fishermen demands and needs of its customer wear it. But, this is sort of the first time base. Nodis specializes in printing on that we’ve been able to wear it next to synthetic , and provides its high- the skin comfortably. Our perception in quality print fabrics quickly, and at a North America of wool is that itchy reasonable price. heavy sweater that grandma used to Michael Touati, owner of the send you every Christmas, which you company explained, “The prints that we never wore more than one time. But, produce are all done utilizing what’s today’s Merino wool is very different called a paper printing process. Paper from that.” printing is done by impregnating the Fernandez added, “We have a paper print onto the fabric through heat tremendous amount of value, because transfer. Our purpose is to enhance the there’s a legitimate technical story quality and the vision people can have associated with Merino. It manages on synthetics, and to also show that moisture. It thermo-regulates. It controls synthetics can have very appreciated body odours. It’s easy-care ? most are feelings and aesthetics. The reason that machine washable, tumble dry. So a we use paper printing is because we Merino t-shirt can be used for hiking are working with mostly synthetics, and during the day, and worn under a the colours on synthetic fabrics blazer for dinner that evening.” become more vibrant through the use Los Angeles-based distributor BHN of this process.” International Textile Inc. is a source for Nodis’ customer base crosses domestic and imported knit and woven different markets, it is compelled to fabrics. This third-generation, family- produce a broad range of designs. owned business has serviced the textile However, Touati offered an overview of industry since 1930. It offers both several print patterns and colours that Examples from the BHN range

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