Rosés - pale and interesting 20 May 2014 by Julia Harding MW & Tamlyn Currin

This collection of rosés comes mainly from two tastings last month in London, one blind and predominantly French, organised by Richard Bampfield MW and hosted by Jean- Christophe Mau of Bordeaux's Château Brown (Bampfield is a consultant and educator who works closely with Mau), the other sighted and at Franco's Italian restaurant in Mayfair, which must win the prize for the highest number of rosé on a restaurant list. In addition, there are wines from France, Italy and South Africa tasted by Tam, Jancis and Walter during the same period.

Having spent so long deeply immersed in varietal minutiae while we were writing , I was taken aback when Independent wine columnist Anthony Rose, a fellow taster at the first of these London tastings, referred to the varieties in a particular wine and I realised I hadn't given their identity a second thought. It's not that the variety or varieties are not influential in the final wine but somehow rosé seems to be so much more to do with region of origin and local traditional styles, plus choices, particularly when it comes to and fermentation, and the use or not of .

Since the wines are listed in score order rather than by where they were tasted, I have indicated which wines were tasted blind. After the blind tasting, Bampfield sent out an interesting summary of the feedback he'd had, including the favourite wines of the 37 tasters who responded. I've interspersed his review with my comments in square brackets:

'The top scoring wine was Chêne Bleu [my favourite too], closely followed by L'Hydropathe from Domaine Sainte Lucie and Miraval [one of my disappointments so I was glad I had tasted it blind and could not be accused of being prejudiced against celebrity owners Mme Jolie and M Pitt]. The top 11 wines were all from the Provence region and special mention should go to Domaines Sacha Lichine, all four of whose wines were in the top 11 [again, in the line up I did not rate these wines as highly as I have done in the past - the oak seemed too extreme in some cases]. The top five wines were all from the 2013 .

'Not surprisingly, different tasters rewarded different styles. Tasters were divided over the two Italian wines (Biondi-Santi and Sella Majoli), the Tavel (Château d'Aqueria), the Spanish (Chivite and Artadi) and the Bordeaux (Châteaux Brown and de Sours). Some of these were oaked and it was clear that not all were attracted by that aspect [the use of oak seems to be especially sensitive for rosé, a slight excess being particularly damaging to the overall balance]. Others had deeper colours and were more mature, which again were characteristics which did not please all. The English rosé, from Albury, scored admirably well and the only wines that failed to win many admirers were those from Australia and New Zealand.'

The tasting at Franco's was a much more demanding experience - two rooms packed with tasters, many of whom were partying customers rather than party-pooping journalists trying to take notes. The battle to ignore perfume and aftershave and find a work surface to rest my laptop took its toll on my ability to focus but did nothing to dampen my admiration for such an impressive selection of rosés - still and sparkling - offered by the restaurant. I probably should have partied and had much more fun!

The wines below are in two groups - sparkling and still - and then in order of descending score.

SPARKLING

Taittinger, Comtes de Rosé Brut 2005 Champagne 18 Drink 2014-2020 70% , 30% . Disgorged 2012? Mid orangey pink, a little darker than the Taittinger NV rosé. So inviting on the nose, great depth and a sense of greatness to come. Hard to explain how it sets up this expectation. Deep and a little yeasty. Power and refinement and excellent persistence with fine mousse. Really shines in this line up. So fresh and youthful. (JH) 12%

Fresne Ducret, Céleste Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne 17 Drink 2014-2016 84%, made up of 70% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 5% Chardonnay. 60% from vintage. 16%, made up of 100% Pinot Meunier, all from vintage 2011. Bottled 2012. Disgorged by hand November 2013, hand-riddled on pupitres. Deep colour, more pale red than pink. Very little on the nose (perhaps too cool?) but a rich broad earthy palate, packed with sour cherry fruit and sweet raspberry. There is a ribbon of warm woody - almost cocoa-like - spice running through and pulling it in on the finish like a drawstring. Proper complex wine! And so different from many champagne rosés. Dry, long, elegant. This would be wonderful at the dinner table, and very very flexible with food. (TC) 12%

Taittinger, Rosé Brut NV Champagne 17 Drink 2014-2017 70% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay. Prettily pale. After so many still rosés playing the fruit card, seems unfruity. Relatively austere, stony aroma. But then a real vinous intensity on the palate, with depth and refinement. (JH) 12%

Ettore Germano, Rosanna Rosé Brut 2012 Langhe 17 Drink 2014-2016 100% . Very very pale. Hint of sherbet on the nose, but the aroma is overwhelmed by the perfume and aftershave in this packed room. Tangy and direct with a refined fizz. Sweet/sour fruit with a long harmonious and dryish finish. Moreish and distinctive. (JH) 12.5%

Coates & Seely, Britagne Rosé Brut NV England 16.5 Drink 2014-2016 Hampshire. 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier. Partridge-eye pale. Clean tight bright citrus. Finely fragrant. Really dry and streamlined, delicate but long. Elegant. (JH) 12%

Ridgeview, Fitzrovia Merret Rosé Brut 2010 England 16.5 Drink 2014-2018 Kent. 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Pinot Meunier. Deepish pink. Lots of red-fruit aroma, some Victoria plum. Mouthfilling and full of fruit but acidity is intense and balanced. Fair grips the mouth. Not a wallflower. Rich and long. (JH) 12%

Bolney, Cuvée Rosé Brut 2009 England 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 Sussex. 100% Pinot Noir. Very pale. Gentle but definite red fruit on the nose. A touch peppery. Really a lot to get your teeth into even though the texture is fine; fine mousse. Long and harmonious. (JH) 12.5%

Nyetimber, Rosé Brut 2009 England 16.5 Drink 2012-2016 Sussex. 45% Chardonnay, 53% Pinot Noir, 2% Pinot Meunier. More yeasty than the other fizzes, shows its time on lees. Full and rich and fruity in the mouth. Big and satisfying without being brash. (JH) 12%

Camel Valley, Rosé Brut 2012 England 16.5 Drink 2014-2015

100% Pinot Noir. Pale orange pink. Juicy and really fresh but good fruit weight. A little sweet on the finish. Long. Hint of boiled sweets. (JH) 12.5%

Contero, Rosado 2013 Brachetto d'Aqui 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 100% Brachetto. Deep pink. Fabulous strawberry fruit yet so fresh, no hint of confectionary. Sweet but fresh. Classic and I love it. Lightly fizzy, indulgently sweet. (JH) 5.5%

Pierre Mignon, Rosé NV Champagne 16 Drink 2014-2017 Bone dry and quite brisk in terms of acidity. Well balanced with some development on the nose. Good middle-of-the-road stuff. £28 The of Dorking, Old School Wines

Mas de Daumas Gassac, Rosé Frizant NV Languedoc 16 Drink 2014-2016 90% , 10% Petit Manseng. Pale pink but more red than most. Gleaming. Delicate but pronounced fruit but not at all false or confected. Fruity and still elegant. It's fizzy but seems more wine-like and has a slight and attractive grip. (JH) 11.5%

Ferrari, Perlé Rosé 2006 Trento 16 Drink 2014-2015 80% Pinot Nero, 20% Chardonnay. Pale orangey pink. Citrus and a little yeasty. Dry, biscuity and interesting. Bags of flavour, lots of mousse. Clean, crisp finish. (JH) 12.5%

Falesco, Rosé Metodo Classico Brut NV IGT Lazio 16 Drink 2014-2015 100% Pinot Nero. Very pale. Delicate with a hint of blossom. Fine mousse and a hint of sour freshness. Firm, real presence in the mouth without being too fruity. (JH) 13%

Le Grand Cros, Le Maitresse Rosé Brut NV Coteaux Varois 15.5 Drink 2014-2015 Disgorged 23 January 2014. , , Chardonnay. Pale pink. Very light fragrance. Dry rose petals and clementine citrus. Delicate, but sort of skirts around the edges of a mid palate. It's pleasantly pretty, but I can't help feeling that this is caught between bring a good Provence rosé and a good , and not quite shining as a whole. Still, not bad at the price. (TC) 12% £12.98 www.grandcros.com

Cleto Chiarli, Grasparossa di Castelvetro NV Emilia-Romagna 15.5 Drink 2014-2015 100% Lambrusco. Very pale pink. Confected red-fruit aroma. Full of strawberry fruit, fun and easy and fresh. Fruit all the way but relatively dry tasting. Don't write off Lambrusco. (JH) 11%

Bouvet Ladubay, Excellence Rosé Mousseux Brut NV France 15 Drink 2014-2015 . 100% . Pale, a little sour in aroma and on the palate. Slightly chalky finish. (JH) 12.5%

STILL

Casa Caterina 2002 Italy 17.5 Drink 2012-2016 fizz from 100% Pinot Meunier grown in Franciacorta country - though without any DOC. Aged between March 2003 and June 2012. Just 5,000 bottles filled.

Very well made and gentle. A little soft but certainly not sweet. Perfumed and well balanced with a very clean finish and some non-aggressive autolysis. Very pale strawberry pink. 12.5% £54 Tutto Wines

Chêne Bleu, Rosé 2013 IGP Vaucluse 17.5 Drink 2014-2018 Tasted blind. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault. Orangey pink. Lightly, stonily red fruited. Lovely fragrance. With definite oak here. Certainly smells refined and sophisticated. Intense without being too fruity. It does seem to be carefully oaked, from the depth of texture as much as from the flavour. Dry, profound and long. (JH) £15 RRP

Dom Ott, Clos Mireille Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 17.5 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah. Ultra pale. Smells sweet, almost a touch honeyed but also pretty with blossom. Perhaps a touch of residual sugar to balance the intense freshness. Distinctive and interesting with a really creamy texture and great depth even though it is as much vinous as fruity. (JH) £30 RRP

Aaldering, Blanc de Noir Rosé Pinotage 2013 Stellenbosch 17 Drink 2014-2016 A very pale diaphanous pink - rather lovely to look at. Smells a little bit like crunchy just- picked apples. Quite extraordinary and not at all what I was expecting! Rich, broad and almost honeyed. It reminds me of a particularly good Alsace Pinot Blanc. Some red-apple perfume top notes, and a notable intensity of fine-cut crunchy fruit, clear as a bell, on the palate. Decisive and bold. A very dangerous wine, when weighing up the sheer deliciousness against the eyewatering alcohol. (TC) 15%

Ch Brown, Rosé 2013 Bordeaux 17 Drink 2014-2017 Tasted blind. Cabernet Sauvignon, , Petit Verdot. Very pale. Smells more like an aromatic white than a rosé. Peachy and only the merest hint of red fruit. Lovely pure fine fruit on the palate, well structured though the tannins are only just noticeable. Persistent and refined, dry and fresh. (JH) £25 RRP

J Chivite Family Estates, Finca de Villatuerta Rosado 2013 Navarra 17 Drink 2014- 2016 Tasted blind. Garnacha. Fruity, crisp, much fresher and brighter than the Colleccion 125 but long and persistent. Refined. Very tight. (JH) £28.99 RRP

Terrebrune, Rosé 2012 Bandol 17 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault. Pale onion skin. Has an intensity but not of fruit, more vinous but has a light fragrance. Similar on the palate. A traditional rosé before they became super fruity. Dense and long and fresh. Marked creaminess of texture. (JH) £22.50 RRP

Elena Walch, Rosado 2013 IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 17 Drink 2014-2015 33% , 33% Merlot, 33% Pinot Nero. Relatively deeply coloured. Fabulous fragrance of red fruit and roses. Terrific depth of fruit, fine freshness and length. Great stuff. A little bit chewy on the finish, so moreish. (JH) 13%

Pittacum, Tres Obispos Rosado 2012 Bierzo 17 Drink 2014-2016

Deep rosy pink. Very attractive aroma filled with red fruit, no excess sweetness and a slight note of spice and pepper. Delicious fruity depth and length with enough savour to make it a really good food wine. (JH)

Ch d'Esclans, Les Clans Rosé 2012 Côtes de Provence 16.5+ Drink 2015-2018 Tasted blind. Grenache, Rolle. Onion skin or even paler. Note of oak on the nose is much more marked on the palate. Concentrated, oaky and not really in harmony (yet). Seems a bit too oaky at the moment and definitely needs food. Good length. (JH) £49 RRP

Albury, Silent Pools Rosé 2013 England 16.5 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Pinot Noir. Pale orangey pink. Fresh red fruit, hint of spring blossom, delicate but definite. Pretty dry but the high acidity makes it seem even drier. Intense light-red fruit, pure and fresh. Full in the mouth but really crisp. Almost tart. (JH) £14 RRP

Ch d'Aqueria, Rosé 2012 Tavel 16.5 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Clairette. Light cherry pink, noticeably darker than most. Intensely fruity on the nose and on the palate. A slight residual sweetness but balanced by light tannins and bright acidity. Modern, clean, long. Very respectable middle ground. (JH) £16.50 RRP

Ch Léoube, Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah. Onion-skin colour. Extremely delicate aroma but still fragrant and a touch of red plum. Stony/dusty notes too. Dry, tight and succulent with the fruit toned down but not lacking. Elegant more than intense. Persistent. (JH) £16 RRP

Ch de Sours, La Source Rosé 2012 Bordeaux 16.5 Drink 2014-2017 Tasted blind. Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Very pale with a hint of orange-pink. Smells as if there is some oak here in the light cedary spice but it does not overpower the delicate red fruit. Very dry, almost tart by comparison with many other wines but it has finesse and length and interest that is not simply fruit. Persistent and would be good with food. (JH) £14.50 RRP

Ch d'Esclans, Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 Tasted blind. Grenache, Rolle. Very pale watery pink. Delicate light red fruit. Delicate dusty floral fragrance. Refined, dry-tasting Provençal style. Fresh, undemonstrative, persistent. Very good but a slight bitterness on the finish. (JH) £22.95 RRP

J Chivite Family Estates, Colección 125 Rosado 2011 Navarra 16.5 Drink 2014-2018 Tasted blind. , Garnacha. Bright light candy colour. Intense aroma that smells both oaky and a little oxidative in style. Touch of coconut on the nose which is even more marked on the palate. Pretty oaky and primary now but there is the fruit and freshness to balance the oak. Well made and distinctive. Powerful, dry and long. Probably a love-it-or- hate-it style. (JH) £13.99 RRP

Ste-Lucie, Made in Provence! Premium Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 Tasted blind. Vermentino, Grenache, Syrah. Extremely pale. Not much on the nose, touch of vanilla and fermentation vat – pear drops and estery. Juicy, fresh red fruit, dry and attractively uncomplicated. Unexpectedly persistent and the fruit builds to the finish. Improved and became more interesting in the glass. (JH) £14.95 RRP

Tempier, Rosé 2012 Bandol 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 Tasted blind. Cinsault, Grenache, , Mourvèdre. Pale orangey pink. Light note of Victoria plum and wild strawberry. Fragrant and fresh. Dry, almost a touch sour on the finish, but preferable to extreme fruit sweetness. Persistent. (JH) £23.95 RRP

Rimauresq, Rosé 2012 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Grenache, Cinsault, Tibouren. Very pale with an orange cast. Red fruit – plum – and vanilla fragrance. Peachy. Dry, subtly oaked? Savoury, dry and satisfying. Subtle and persistent. (JH) £13 RRP

Charles Joguet, Rosé 2011 Chinon 16.5 Drink 2013-2016 100% Cabernet Franc. Deep pink. Fragrant with plummy fruit and a touch of spice. Full- flavoured, more like a light red than a rosé. Light tannins and freshness all very well balanced. Still plenty of life in it. GV (JH) 13%

Dom Ott, Ch de Selle Coeur de Grains Rosé 2012 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2013- 2016 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Not much aroma but really good depth on the palate, more vinous than fruity. Dry but with a rounded creamy texture and very good length. (JH) 13.5%

Ch Hermitage St-Martin, Enzo Rosé 2012 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2013-2014 Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah. Bright orangey pink. More intense on the nose than most, lifted red fruit and a slight and attractive stoniness, not just another rosé. Good depth of fruit in the middle, unusually so. Satisfying and full in the mouth, plenty of fruit but no excess sweetness or signs of confection. Well done. (JH) 12.5%

Maitres Vignerons de St-Tropez, Carte Noire Rosé 2013 Coteaux d'Aix en Provence 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 90% Grenache, 10% Cinsault. Fragrant with apricot and orange. Light, pretty, fresh and lots of fragrant pleasure. Really dry tasting and a long cool finish. GV (JH) 13%

Gayda, Rosé 2013 IGP Pays d'Oc 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 100% Cinsault. Reddish pink. That marked orangey fruit character of Cinsault shows through – such a great variety for rosé. Freshness, intensity in a modern and satisfyingly dry style. (JH) 12.5%

J Hofstätter, Joseph Rosé 2013 Alto Adige 16.5 Drink 2014-2016 100% Lagrein. Deeply coloured. Rich in red fruit. Super dry, full fruited and with alpine freshness. Tight and just lightly tannic. Mouthwatering finish. (JH) 13%

Vie di Romans, Ciantons Rosé 2013 Friuli Isonzo 16.5 Drink 2014-2016

100% Merlot. No longer produced. Pale to mid pink. Lovely deep aromas of red fruit and a light floral note. And a touch of oak spice? Some oak and grip on the palate, a serious food wine with well-judged oak. More flavour than elegance, very persistent. (JH) 13.5%

Castello di Ama, Rosato 2013 IGT Toscana 16.5 Drink 2014-2015 50% , 50% Merlot. Deepish pink. Creamy red fruits. Creamy texture too but with a cutting edge of freshness. Much more texture than most. Very crisp and persistent. (JH) 12.5%

Ch d'Esclans, Les Clans Rosé 2008 Côtes de Provence 16- Drink 2010-2014 Grenache, Vermentino. Strong caramel note on the nose. Oaky but fresh. Really too oaky for me. I feel like I have a tree in my mouth at the end. (JH) 13.5%

Artadi, Artazu Artazuri Rosado 2013 Navarra 16 Drink 2014-2015 Tasted blind. Garnacha. Pale reddish pink. Slightly confected red fruit and a touch floral. Strawberry bonbons on the palate. Off dry, generous and flavourful but simple. Saved from oversweetness by freshness and a touch of bitter-sweet on the finish. (JH) £11.30 RRP

Biondi Santi, Tenuta Greppo Rosato 2010 IGT Toscana 16 Drink 2014-2015 Tasted blind. Sangiovese. Pale orangey pink, almost pale tawny. Ripe, a touch of Victoria plum on the nose and some spice. Dry, crisp, the fruit is in the very ripe spectrum but the wine is still very fresh. Juicy and interesting – distinctive. (JH)

Ch Ste-Marguerite, M de Marguerite Rosé 2012 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2014- 2015 Tasted blind. 40% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 30% Mourvèdre. Very very pale partridge-eye orange. In the dark, I would have taken this for an aromatic white. Refined Victoria plums on the nose. Mineral, lightly floral, restrained. Perhaps just a touch of vanilla sweetness on the nose but the palate is bone dry, slightly austere. Light but persistent. Would be overwhelmed by many dishes. (JH) £20 RRP

Ch d'Esclans, Garrus Rosé 2012 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Grenache, Rolle. Pale, almost yellowy colour. Not sure if it is colour association but it smells of yellow plums, a touch of oak spice. More oaky on the palate and creamy. Just a bit hard and bitter on the finish. (JH) £60 RRP

Ch Minuty, M de Minuty Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2014-2015 Tasted blind. Grenache, Syrah. Very very pale. Back to those cool-ferment aromas but some red fruit too. Red fruited, modern, fresh, dry. Correct. (JH) £14.99 RRP

Ch d'Esclans, Whispering Angel Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2014-2016 Tasted blind. Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah, Tibouren. Very pale pink. Fragrant, delicate (again, at last) red fruit and floral. Dry, savoury, more vinous than fruity on the palate, good depth and length without massive fruit flavour. (JH) £16.95 RRP

Ch de Pibarnon, Rosé 2012 Bandol 16 Drink 2013-2015

90% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault. Pale orangey pink. Fragrant and delicate on the nose, much more powerful on the palate, but there is a slight bitterness at the very end which brings it down. (JH) 13%

Ch de la Martinette, Rollier de la Martinette 2013 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2014- 2015 55% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 10% Syrah.Very very pale. 'Pale' on the nose too. But has dry vinous depth without being particularly fruity. Persistent, almost chewy even though the tannins are barely noticeable. Interesting. (JH) 12.5%

Pojer e Sandri, Vin Dei Molini Rosado 2012 IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 16 Drink 2014- 2015 100% Rotberger. Mid pretty pink. Light red fruit. Firm, slight chew, slight sweetness but in harmony with the acidity. Not much weight in the middle but persistent. (JH) 12%

Cantina Terlano (Kellerei Terlan), Rosé Lagrein 2013 Alto Adige 16 Drink 2014-2015 100% Lagrein. Dry, mildly tannic, lots of red fruit. Tasty, honest, dry. Versatile for food. GV (JH) 13%

Bertani, Bertarose Chiaretto Rosato 2013 IGT Veneto 15.5 Drink 2013-2015 Almost like a white wine on the nose. Pretty technical cool-ferment aromas, but palate shows crisp tropical fruit that is uncomplicated and with a satisfying length. Good party fodder. (WS) 12%

Le Grand Cros, Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 From the estate of Hugh and Jane Faulkner. 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Semillon, 10% Rolle. Yields of 50 h;a/ha. Each parcel is vinified separately. Cold skin-contact , pressing with separation of free-run juice from pressed must, cold static must settling, temperature control of fermentation at 17-18°C, racking and blockage of . Early fining with bentonite, filtration, blending, stabilization and non-sterile filtration, bottled in the spring. Pale, but not as pale as some, with an apricot-pink tinge. Very perfumed! Even cold, the aroma is full-on. Still quite young and candied on the nose - banana estery. Dry, balanced, fresh, but without great complexity. (TC) 13% £9.75 www.grandcros.com

Ch Léoube, Le Secret de Léoube Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 15.5 Drink 2013-2014 Tasted blind. Grenache, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon. Very little colour, slight onion skin. Delicately aromatic but very pretty – light note of orange and spring blossom. Dry, quite bony without a great deal of fruit depth so that the finish is a little watery. On the light side. (JH) £21 RRP

Ste-Lucie, L'Hydropathe Élite Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence, Ste-Victoire 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 Tasted blind. Syrah, Grenache. Onion skin. Pear drops. Touch of red plum. Lightly red fruited but mostly cool-temperature fermention. Very crisp. (JH) £15.95 RRP

Ch Miraval, Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 15.5 Drink 2014-2014

Tasted blind. Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Rolle. Onion skin. Pear drops and boiled sweets. Simple, crisp, balanced but somehow the light fruit sweetness and the acidity are not fully integrated (yet). (JH) £20 RRP

Vincent Delaporte, Chavignol Rosé 2013 Sancerre 15.5 Drink 2014-2015 Tasted blind. Pinot Noir. Hint of boiled sweets, red fruit. Bright but tart. I wouldn't want to drink this without food. (JH) £16.50 RRP

Turkey Flat, Rosé 2013 Barossa Valley 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 Tasted blind. Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet, Dolcetto. Bright luminous pink. Candy on the nose. Clean, fruity, modern, could come from anywhere. (JH) £14 RRP

Dom Bruno Clair, Rosé 2009 Marsannay 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 100% Pinot Noir. Pink but with a slight tawny cast of age. Distinctive in this line up for its developed character. Spice and red fruit and a slight caramel sweetness to the aroma. Unusual on the palate, that sweetness up front and then pretty crisp, almost tart, on the finish. Still drinking well but drink up. Nicely dry. (JH) 12.5%

La Suffrène, Rosé 2013 Bandol 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Cinsault, 20% Grenache, 10% Carignan. Very very pale. Intense if delicate aroma, smells beautifully fresh. Fresh on the palate too but a bit dilute. (JH)

Ch Riotor, Rosé 2012 Côtes de Provence 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 Grenache and Cinsault blend. Pale. Delicate and inviting fragrance. Subtle, elegant and easy to rush past but pretty good. Juicy and fresh though the fruit is restrained. (JH) 13%

Ch d'Ollières, Classique Rosé 2012 Coteaux Varois 15.5 Drink 2013-2014 50% Grenache, 50% Cinsault. Pale pink. Light aroma of strawberry. Refreshingly fruity and straightforward. Not much intensity but suitably quaffable. A touch of sweetness on the finish. (JH) 12.5%

Dom des Diables, Le Petit Diable Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence, Ste- Victoire 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 40% Syrah, 40% Cinsault, 20% Grenache. Estery fermentation aroma of pears. Sweet/sour balance. A little more sour on the finish. Persistent. (JH) 13%

Dom de Montplo, Rosé 2013 IGP Pays d'Oc 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot. Light note of orange (just noticeable above the coconut perfume of my neighbour at the tasting). Deep fruited, fresh, good value. (JH) 12.5%

Villa du Clos, Rosé Cinsault 2013 IGP Pays d'Oc 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 80% Cinsault, 20% Syrah. Pale orangey pink. Red fruit with light note of roses. Dry, fresh but a bit watery on the mid palate. (JH) 12.5%

Selva Capuzza, Chiaretto Rosato 2012 Garda 15.5 Drink 2013-2014 40% Groppello, 20% Marzemino, 15% Sangiovese. Gleaming pale pink. A light boiled- sweet note. But then a sour freshness on the finish. (JH) 12%

Guerrieri-Rizzardi, Chiaretto Rosato 2013 Bardolino 15.5 Drink 2014-2014

Corvina, , Molinara, Sangiovese and Negrara. Fragrant and just a hint of red fruit. Good balance, moreishly fresh. Just what an inexpensive rosé should be. (JH) 12.5%

Cataldi Madonna, Cataldino Rosato 2013 Abruzzo 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 100% . Lively, almost tart but just on the right side of freshness. Would love this on a hot day. Definitely dry. (JH) 11.5%

Ca'dei Frati, Rosa dei Frati 2013 Lugana 15.5 Drink 2014-2014 Gropello, , Merzemino, Sangiovese. Pale orangey pink. Perfumed, floral, medium dry. Pleasant and easy if you want a certain level of sweetness – and the whole is balanced. Lots of fruit. For lovers of blush, with a subtle grip. (JH) 13%

Le Grand Cros, L'Esprit de Provence Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 15.5 Drink 2014- 2014 Another Faulkner family wine. 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 20% Syrah. Hand-harvested at 50 hl/ha. Each parcel is vinified separately; short skin contact at 15°C; grapes were pressed with early separation of pressed must; tight cold static must settling; temperature control of fermentation at 16-17°C; racking and blockage of malolactic fermentation. 4-5 rackings; early fining with bentonite; filtration; blending; stabilization and non-sterile filtration; bottled in the spring. Pale pink, classic Provence colour. Delicate but firm nose - just lightly nutty, a touch of early summer berries. Dry as a bone, elegant, lightly sweet fruit cut by sharp cranberry-like acidity. Some citrus. I find myself wishing I had a plate of just-picked asparagus and hollandaise. GV (TC) 13.5% £11.90 www.grandcros.com

Gérard Bertrand, Gris Blanc 2012 IGP Pays d'Oc 15 Drink 2013-2014 Made from Grenache Gris and Grenache Noir. Very pale salmon pink. Very 'pale' smell too! Not a lot here, but it does have that lovely bitter-almond-and-honey character of Grenache Gris on the finish, and it is pretty dry. Pleasant, if you want a glass of something you don't have to think about. Needs a sliver of parma ham. (TC) 13%

Ste-Lucie, MIP* Classic Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence 15 Drink 2014-2014 Tasted blind. Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah. Extremely pale. Smells of the fermentation vat – pears and pear drops. Dry, simple, fresh. (JH) £11.95 RRP

Dom des Diables, Bonbon Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence, Ste-Victoire 15 Drink 2014- 2014 Tasted blind. Cinsault, Syrah. Almost no colour. Very estery on the nose – pear drops and is that bananas? Fresh but a bit harsh. (JH) £13.95 RRP

Skillogalee, Rosé Cabernet Sauvignon/ 2012 Clare Valley 15 Drink 2014-2014 Tasted blind. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec. The colour of red candy, and the aroma of very sweet primary red fruit. Sweet, strawberry candy. Definitely not a wall flower but more like alcoholic fruit juice. (JH) £14 RRP

Ch Beaulieu, Cuvée Alexandre Rosé 2013 Coteaux d'Aix en Provence 15 Drink 2014- 2014

35% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Cinsault 5% others. Prettily pale. Lovely fragrance of delicate red fruit and something fresher and greener/more citrusy. Full fruited, dry tasting and straightforward on the palate. Does what it says on the tin, just a little bit sour on the finish. (JH) 12.5%

Sella, Majoli Rosato 2012 14.5 Drink 2014-2014 Tasted blind. Nebbiolo. Deeply coloured cherry red. Intense red-fruited aroma. Lots of Victoria plum. Lots of flavour but a bit aggressive. (JH) £16.75 RRP

Takatu, Rosé 2013 Matakana 14 Drink 2014-2014 Tasted blind. Cabernet Franc, Merlot. Very pale pink. Smells odd and not quite clean. Geranium? Tastes odd too, with a sort of yeast-extract flavour on the finish. (JH) £17.50 RRP

Tags: pink wine