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Staunton Rocks www. ixed in.com WARNING: Welcome to Staunton State Park: Staunton recently became the 42nd Colorado state Rock climbing is a sport with inherent danger, which may result in severe injury or death. Read and understand this park. It is home to a prolific number of granite domes and spires, many of which host solid, warning before using this book. This book is not intended to serve as an instructional manual and should not take the featured rock. Adventurous climbers will find ample opportunity to explore and bag first ascents, place of proper instruction. Employ a professional guide or instructor if you are unsure of your ability to handle any while those who prefer established routes will find over 60 routes documented in this guide. circumstances that may arise. The information contained within this book is a compilation of opinions and as such, is unverified. These opinions are neither facts nor promises and should not be treated as such. Rely first and foremost upon your skill, experience, conditions, and common sense rather than the opinions expressed in this book including Getting There: Staunton State Park is located along Elk Creek Road, just outside of Conifer, descriptions, safety ratings and difficulty ratings, as they are all entirely subjective. If you are unwilling to assume Colorado. The park can easily be reached from most Front Range communities by proceeding complete responsibility for your safety, and if you (or your estate) is unwilling to never try to sue Fixed Pin Publishing if down Hwy-285 to Shaffer’s Crossing, exiting onto Elk Creek Road, and then heading north on Elk you get hurt or killed, do not use this guidebook. Creek Road. The park’s entrance is soon seen on the right hand side after about a mile. Errors may exist in this book as a result of the authors and/or the people with whom they consulted. Because the information was gathered from a multitude of sources, they may not have been independently verified and therefore the publisher, or the authors, cannot guarantee the correctness of any of the information contained within this guidebook. In addition, information suggesting the safety of a route, its difficulty, or equipment used may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may be absent, unreliable, or misplaced. THE AUTHORS AND PUBLISHER EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM ANY REPRESENTATIONS AND WARRANTIES REGARDING THIS old mill site GUIDE. THEY MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, OF ANY KIND REGARDING THE ACCURACY OR RELIABILITY OF THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK. THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR BE FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PUPROSE. THE USER ASSUMES ALL RISK ASSOCIATED WITH THE USE OF THIS BOOK AND ALL BL MC ACTIVITIES CONTAINED WITHIN IT, ESPECIALLY ROCK CLIMBING. Staunton Rocks Rock Climbing Staunton State Park Elk Falls Pond SR OM Authors: Matt Clark, Jason Haas, Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin, Amanda Peterson, Eric Schmeer, MP and Kevin Stricker LB Cover photo: Josh Hendriks on Muricuh, 5.12, p14. photo: Adam Bove Elk Creek Spires Elk Falls 2012 Fixed Pin Publishing, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher. SR miles Lion’s Head Residential - no park access 0 0.5 DP LEGEND Davis MC Roadtripping? trail open to hikers, bikes, horses Ponds hiker only trail TRAILS road SR Staunton Rock BL Border Line Be sure to have the most up-to-date beta before you go. Order online at fixedpin.com road inside park - not for driving bathroom MC Mason Creek MP Marmot Passage Rock Climbing parking OM Old Mill BE Bugling Elk Capitol Reef National Park park entrance park boundary Davis Ponds Lion’s Back and the rest of DP LB Wayne County, Utah Climbing History: Very little is known about the climbing history of Staunton as the area has been off-limits to climbers since at least 1986 when the State acquired the land. Before then, the rocks sat on private property, which was also off-limits to climbers. With that said, formations such as the Elk Creek Spires and Lion’s Head are known to have seen previous ascents, but these ascents were not recorded in any known text. Climbers now putting up first ascents shouldn’t be Jared Spaulding surprised to find a random fixed pin or old, quarter-inch bolt scattered across the vast domes. Anyone with knowledge of historic routes in the park is encouraged to contact Fixed Pin Publish- ing ([email protected]) so that these routes might be resurrected from their murky past. Mountain Biking The South Platte Jackson Hole Capital Reef (UT) Colorado (CO) (WY) Gear: The majority of the current routes here require a trad rack. While at first glance much of this guidebook is non-profit EMPIRE RISING FIXED PIN AND THE NCCC will donate the rock appears crack-less and impossible to protect through traditional means, climbers will 100% OF THE PROFITS from the sale of this book RA AND THE HALIDOME Boulder, Colorado TO THE CRAIG LEUBBEN FOUNDATION EVOLUTION IN ACTION Innovation Performance soon find that good gear can often be found with just a little searching and a keen eye. Climbers Poudre Canyon should come prepared with a rack consisting of nuts (and RPs), a quiver of small to finger-sized cams, as well as cams up to a #3 Camalot. Additionally, climbers may also appreciate carrying ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE a few Tricams to round out their rack. In cases where a specific route requires larger gear or doubles, it is noted in the route description. However, the gear listed is just a suggestion; use SECOND EDITION : FALL 2010 EDITION : FALL SECOND Poudre Canyon MARK TARRANT your best judgment as to what gear you may need or if you want to bring more of it than what was Serving climbers since 1973 ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE Weekdays 10am-8pm By Craig Luebben, Bennett Scott, & Cameron Cross Weekends 10am-6pm listed. Due to the long nature of many of the routes at Staunton, a 70-meter rope is frequently 633 South Broadway, Boulder, CO 80305 888-499-8866 NEPTUNEMOUNTAINEERING.COM photo: Craig Luebben on Mr Mogate, Cuba mandatory and in some cases, a second rope is required to safely rappel from the top of certain R•320a WWW.ARCTERYX.COM SECOND EDITION : FALL 2010 routes. Consult the beta for the route you intend to climb and when in doubt trail a second rope. Poudre Canyon Empire (CO) The Needles of The Virgin (CO) Rushmore (SD) Islands 3 Color Denotations: Each climb has been placed into one of three color-coded categories based on how they are protected: Green denotes trad climbs that require a rack of nuts and cams. Pink is for mixed routes. Sometimes these routes only have a single bolt in 400 feet or they may be almost exclusively bolted with only a cam placement or two. Blue is reserved for sport routes that are exclusively protected by bolts. This also C'"*//0* includes topropes that do not require any trad gear to set up. *(&*2$-53*D'23*#233"%&B Rules: Staunton is a state park. As such, all Colorado Park and Wildlife rules apply. However, a few of the key rules to remember are: !"#$%&'( Always keep your dog on a leash. //0*#"#$"%&*123"*453'"%,-%6*7*!2628"(+"*9-%:(+* Park visitors must hold a valid Colorado State Park Pass. '2+;*-+*<(-+=&*!--+8(;'3*>533%"&&*65%(+;*3'"*?%&3* New routes are a welcome addition; however routes which require fixed hardware must go through a review committee for approval and the route equipper must hold a special 2&@"+3*$A*2*,"#28"*3"2#B activity permit issued by the park manager. The park also does not want people leaving slings wrapped around trees; they would much rather prefer bolted anchors. Do not jeopardize route development in the park by circumnavigating this process. Park man- agement has been very open to route development, and rogue bolts will quickly destroy this positive relationship. For more information regarding route development and the fixed hardware approval process, contact the park manager or reference the park’s climbing management plan. Seasonal Closures: Currently seasonal closures exist to protect nesting raptors on Lion’s Head, Park View Dome, and the Ranch Hand. Please respect these closures to help ensure the success of nesting raptors on these formations. Contact the park office at (303) 816-0912 for more information. Plants: Staunton State Park is home to two sensitive plant species, James’ Telesonix (Telesonix jamesii) and Weber Monkey Flower (Mimulus gemmiparus), James’ Telesonix which exist on cliff faces within the park. Weber Monkey Flower Climbers should learn to identify these plants and avoid uprooting or otherwise destroying these plants. Weber Monkey Flower is of special concern as it is one of Colorado’s rarest plants; climbers should notify park management immediately if Weber Monkey Flower is discovered in a climbing area. Marmots: Staunton is home to an interesting colony of marmots. These little guys seem novel at this low el- evation, but care should be taken to protect your gear and food. Always hang your packs, even when leaving them for only a little while. !"#$"%&'()*(+,-. !"#$%&'(!)*%(#+),-./$0 !"#$#%&'()*#$+%,-(.#/ 4 www. ixed in.com 5 !"#$#%&'()&*+,-$&$#&./0"$1&2/3,(&45"6,-,.7&8.9(%/,3&:(5"+/37&;#,.$,&!/,$.#<7&=<>.,?&@A..7&8,/$"&B6>9/<%3/C 2 Staunton Rocks Ancient Relics 5.10 R CASCADES WALL P1: 5.9 Climb the black streak right of Coleman Di- Getting There: From the parking lot, follow the Staunton Ranch Trail west. After 1.4 miles, rect. Keep climbing past the Solar Ledge and con- (25 minutes) you will come to a junction with another trail; stay left.
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