Architect of the Collapse? Rebecca Louder / [email protected] Can a Set of Well Argued Ideas Lead Please Tourists, Don’T Leave a Nation Straight to Bankruptcy?

Architect of the Collapse? Rebecca Louder / Rlouder@Grapevine.Is Can a Set of Well Argued Ideas Lead Please Tourists, Don’T Leave a Nation Straight to Bankruptcy?

YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Issue No 13 – August 28 - September 10 – 2009 www.grapevine.is + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE!

ArchitectHANNES HÓLMSTEINN: of the Collapse? Can a set of well argued ideas lead a nation straight to bankruptcy?

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Political science professor Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson is often referred to as the Independence Party’s chief ideologue, and has been credited with laying down the lines for the massive de-regulation and privatisation process Iceland underwent during the past two decades. Some thanked him for the prosperity, now he is being blamed for the downfall. PG. 19. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 2

Editorial | Haukur Magnússon Food Editor:

YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Sari Peltonen Issue No 13 – August 28 - September 10 – 2009 www.grapevine.is + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! Editorial Interns:

Haukur’s 13th Editorial! HANNES HÓLMSTEINN: Architect of the Collapse? Rebecca Louder / [email protected] Can a set of well argued ideas lead Please Tourists, Don’t Leave a nation straight to bankruptcy?

+ Experience Mývatn Via Pizza: Tasty Nature An Icelandic Slasher Flick: Finally Blönduós: Breeding Confusion Culture Night: Lots Of Waffles to the rain or to our massive collection of my pleading, I nevertheless implore you Sailing To The Faeroes: No Mean Feat On-line News Editor illegal mp3s. to ponder the consequences. Just think + Complete Reykjavík Listings Lots Of Cool Events Paul Nikolov Opinions! Reviews! Comix!

It was a pretty good summer. about all the poor kids that won’t be Political science professor Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson is often referred to as the Independence Party’s chief ideologue, and has been credited with laying down the lines for the massive de-regulation and privatisation process Iceland underwent during [email protected] the past two decades. Some thanked him for the prosperity, now he is being blamed for the downfall. PG. 19. It’s not over yet, not quite. But it’s able to attend music school this winter Art Director: fast drawing to a close. And if I am to because their homeland is bankrupt Cover Photo: Hörður Kristbjörnsson believe the local media and the general and lacks foreign currency. Think about Baldur Kristjánsson [email protected] discourse, we are slowly sinking into Kreppa-ravaged Iceland, the poor, poor www.baldurkristjans.is Design: On Cover: what will be a harsh and ugly and evil folks that rely on your patronage to make Björn Lárus Arnórsson winter. A long, cold and potentially ends meet. Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson Photographer: Make-up: Julia Staples / juliastaples.com deadly one. Unemployment rates will Please don’t go. Karin Kristjana Hindborg rise. Folks will file for bankruptcy. They Also, if you stay, there’s plenty of fun Thanks: Marketing Director: Jói Kjartans, will lose their homes, their cars. They will and interesting things happening here Jón Trausti Sigurðarson Fornbókabúðin Hverfisgata all become alcoholics, and their children in the winter. Despite what some folks [email protected] will all drop out of school and become might tell you, Iceland is actually quite Sales Director: Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. terminally depressed dope fiends. Now nice in the wintertime. It’s got snow Aðalsteinn Jörundsson we will finally start feeling the full, dull and aurora borealis and beautiful frosty The Reykjavík Grapevine [email protected] Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson force of Kreppa in our faces. mornings where time seems to stand Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík [email protected] Summer was a welcome relief, as still along with the air and atmosphere. www.grapevine.is Distribution: [email protected] it often is in Iceland. We had our nice You can go skiing. We have excellent Sæmundur Þór Helgason Published by Fröken ehf. weather and we had our days off and we ski slopes. And you can go hiking if you [email protected] Proofreader: were maybe able to coast along financially are properly equipped to do so. Not on Editorial: Jim Rice OK, even though our economy is just as the highlands, pray tell, but a lot of other +354 540 3600 / [email protected] collapsed as it was at the start of the year places. Advertising: Press releases: and stuff keeps getting more expensive Icelandic winter is also an excellent +354 540 3605 / [email protected] [email protected] Publisher: by the day. place for drinking cocoa, feasting on food Submissions inquiries: +354 540 3601 / [email protected] We also had steady influx of currency and fine wine by candlelight, burying [email protected] Subscription inquiries: – sweet, sweet currency – to the country oneself in the snow. Publisher: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] courtesy of you guys, the tourists. It’s outright excellent, I tell you. Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson General inquiries: [email protected] So, this has been a pretty good summer, This, I am told, helped. A lot. But hey, Please don’t go! Tourist season, don’t [email protected] guess what. The main tourist season is end! We need you! Founders: all things considered. Editor: drawing to a close. This means there will Also, there’s all the festivals. All Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, We enjoyed some pretty good weather, Haukur S Magnússon be fewer and fewer of you lovely folks and those excellent festivals. There’s the Hörður Kristbjörnsson, drank some pretty good beers and saw [email protected] Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, some sights. We travelled around the your lovely money around. Your lovely Iceland Airwaves festival. That awesome Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Journalist: country and pitched our tents, hiking conversation and asking for direction. pile of awesomeness, good music, good Valur Gunnarsson Catharine Fulton / [email protected] up hills and mountains, seeking out Your lovely fluorescent outdoorsy wear drinking and general debauchery. The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 seclusion, serenity and warm streams to and your lovely letters to us. There’s the Reykjavík International Contributing Writers: You will all be missed immensely. In Film Festival. That’s pretty awesome as times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from bathe in. Sigurður K Kristinsson November through April, and fortnightly fact, I find myself compelled to plead to well. Aldrei fór ég suður. Crazy January We stayed in the city for the weekend, [email protected] from May til October. Nothing in this going to shows, spending money at bars, you guys: please, don’t go! Don’t leave! shows, Christmas and the New Year’s Florian Zühlke / [email protected] magazine may be reproduced in whole or Sindri Eldon pissing away our youth along with our Come back! We need you! We miss you Eve that has seen Quentin Tarantino fly in part without the written permission of Marc Vincenz / [email protected] brain cells and our souls. already! You and your fun ways and your over repeatedly to gorge on liquor that he the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine Ian Watson is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, We hung out with our families and sweet currencies. You enrich our lives, hates. Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl our wallets, and you make us feel like we Please don’t go, tourists. We need you Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and friends, sharing memories and creating Dr. Gunni at key locations along road #1, and all major new ones, enjoying talks and walks live in an actual operating city. And that and your currency and your company. Hildur Knútsdóttir tourist attractions and tourist information and snacks. We hung out by ourselves, is a nice feeling. Hugleikur Dagsson centres in the country. Bogi Bjarnason watchinggg TV, reading books, listening g Should you decide to leave despite Ragnar Jón Hrólfsson You may not like it, but at least it's not Satu Ramo sponsored. (No articles in the Rey- Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir Egill S. Sigtryggur Baldursson kjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. MUSIC The opinions expressed are the writers’ When I Walk own, not the advertisers’). & NIGHT egillsaebjornsson Download the free track of the issue gogoyoko presents: LIFE WHEN I WALK at www.grapevine.is So Egill Sæbjörnsson finally released a new TRACK OF record. This is of course great news for folks GRAPEVINE THE ISSUE that love music. Egill Sæbjörnsson – or Egill S. as he now prefers to be known for some reason - made the most awesome Tonk Of GRAND ROCK Download your The Lawn some years back. It was jam- GrandGrand rorokkkk / FFridayriday SSeSeptemberptember 4 / 222:002:00 / 1.0001000 ISK Admission free copy at packed with great tracks and had one of grapevine.is music’s catchiest lines ever. “I love you so, I find you crazy.” We just got a copy of his eponymous new one, and it sounds real good on our computer speakers, and we are really looking forward Dr. Gunni to digging into it. Go fetch our track of the issue to find out for yourself. Hellvar INSOL Blóð

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ICEWEAR clothes and products are available at the following stores: REYKJAVÍK: OTHER LOCATIONS: Handprjónasambandið, Icefin, Nóatún 17 Blue Lagoon, Shop Gullfosskaffi, Gullfoss Laugavegur 64 Ull og Gjafavörur, Hótel Saga The Viking, Hafnarstræti 104, Akureyri Geysir Shop, Haukadal The Viking, Hafnarstræti 3 Ísey, Laugavegur 23 Sport og útivist, Á stéttinni, Húsavík Byggðasafnið, Skógar The Viking, Laugavegur 1 Hitt hornið, Laugavegur 100 Selið, Mývatn Víkwool, Vík í Mýrdal Islandia, Kringlan Álafoss, Mosfellsbær Mývatnsmarkaður, Mývatn hönnun: www.skissa.net Drífa ehf, Suðurhraun 12 C, 210 Garðabær, Sími 555 7400, Fax. 555 7401, [email protected], www.icewear.is Sour grape of the month Sour grapes A case of POLAR BEER for your thoughts. We're not gonna lie to you: we really love us some beers. Some folks would call it a problem, but beer never gave us any problems. In fact, and stuff over the years, it's solved most of 'em. A frosty glass of cold, frothy, bubblicious, golden-tinted beer has consistently failed to let us down. Say your piece, voice your opinion, In the immortal words of Homer J. Simpson: "Mmm... Beer..." send your letters to [email protected] Now, since we're real pleasant and giving folks here at the Grapevine, we thought we'd share some of that wonderful POLAR BEER with you, our readers. Henceforth, until the end of days (or our Polar Beer- sponsorship program, whichever comes ﬁ rst), we will reward one MOST EXCELLENT LETTER with a case of the Polar Beer. You read 4 (light) right. A full case of beer. At your disposal. Letters Give us your worst: [email protected] Hi, MOST AWESOME LETTER: Just a comment on Sari Peltonen's review of Íslenski Barinn, in the current Iceland as a front in the war on human existance issue. El Grillo is named after the wreck Dear editor, in seyðisfjörður, but it sure isn't brewed Feel free to publish this letter in your magazine. It is written mainly to follow THE OFFICIAL TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE there. Before it was sold, sure, but ever the initiative of the "In Defence Group" that encouraged people to explain the since it's public release it's Icelandic point of view, when it comes to the diplomatic clash with the countries been brewed by none other than Öl- of EU in the wake of the banking collapse. I have been trying to get my articles gerðin, right here in reykjavik. I'm sure published in a series of papers now, but sadly few of them benefit from the truth they're very happy having you think it's a getting out about the attacks on Iceland. from a nice arty town out east though :) I have been warning the Icelandic government and the media for the last couple Still, glad to read about beer reviews in of years now that a fierce attack on Icelandic sovereignty has already been launched a restaraunt review :) and war has been going on for a while now. This attack, now in the height of it´s devestation, has been carefully plotted for years now and is a significant part of an Cheers, elaborate scheme to bring Icelanders to their knees. Karl P Why Iceland? Why are the English and Dutch suddenly so hostile towards Iceland and why do they insist Icelanders surrender to slavery because of Icesave? Dear Karl, I will tell you, and although it might sound surreal and even a bit crazy, I insist Thank you for clearing that up. Gosh, that you open your eyes to the conspiracy that is taking place right here, right now, I hope that was the *only* mistake we but has been going on for thousands of years. The conspiracy of the Beast against made in our last issue. mankind. Whales are highly intelligent creatures with an ability to communicate that even Hello, surpasses our own. What is more, they effectively practice mindcontrol on lesser at the very beggining thank you for human subjects. I have countless proofs of this, none though as blatantly obvious your paper- it was really fine thing to read as the one embodied in the traitor Captain Watson of Sea Shepherd, who under the it before our trip to Island , during it and spell of whales has been tireless in terrorizing his own kin for decades now, to the now, when we're back home. Really great, benefit of whales. great job! Although we do not with the tools we now possess, fully understand how, we Anyway, I just wanted to ask you if it can clearly see that whales actively practice mind control, so when it comes to is possible to get a dvd release or anything lobbying and political maneuvering, no beast is more capable than the whale. else, of the dreamland documentary. I The Icelandic foreign ministry offers no resistance. Not surprisingly so, as the read the interview with the director in ministries strongest asset has long been the ability to throw good cocktail parties May's edition of grapevine, managed to for International bankers, much rather than mobilizing to secure Icelands image get the book and now very eager to see the and interrests around the world. movie. On the internet I could only watch So the whales have had an easy task on that front. They have with the aid of the trailers. Green Peace and other similar terrorist groups, manipulated the world media, the My friends are going to spend their international finance sector and the rest of the international institutes to work holidays in Iceland and I wondered- may- against us in the war on whales. be you could tell me if it is possible(and if The Dutch and the English are simply acting on behalf of the Beast, just like yes- where) to get the movie somewhere they did when Iceland started fighting back to break the siege of whales in the in Reykjavik. summer of 2006. Embassadors were summoned and the governments of these two Thank you in advance and all the best countries made their alliegences clear. They were teaming up with the whales in from Poland:) their battle against Iceland. Regards, Iceland is fighting on more fronts though. Polarbears invaded last summer. As Ania they are the largest of all land predators on earth and more dangerous than most, we must be concidered lucky that we suffered no casualties. Thanks to the heroic p.s.Didn't want to mention it at all, cause effort of Icelandic policeforce the monsters were slain. it sounds like a cliche, but can't help to But that did not stop them from carrying out their mission, as the incident write that Iceland rules!! Definitely the caused public outrage. The police was in fact heavily critisized for offering the last most beautiful nad amazing place I have line of defence for our country. As obvious as it might now seem, the polarbears ever been to. were sent here for presicely that purpose. A suicide mission to divide our ranks as well as rallying traitors to their cause. Dear Ania, Is it a coincidence that only months prior to the attack, ALL major international Thank you for your letter and for your media were bombarding people with cute childhood photos of Knut the white kind words about the paper. Lord knows spawn of Berlin, the latest successor to the throne of Hell. Appearing on covers of we try our best. You know. A lot of folks more than a 10.000 newspaper and magazines worldwide in a matter of days, he stay up all night making this thing,, so it’s became the most famous german since... good that some of y’all appreciate it. All of a sudden, the world was in love with polar bears. The masses became Anyway. We checked with the Dream- bewitched by Knuts shiny fur and innocent appearance and surely enough, land folks, and they tell me the film won’t hostility towards Icelanders grew to new heights as reports emerged that we were be out on DVD for a while to come. So slaughtering polarbears for sport. The Beast had won another perfectly executed Simply the most comprehensive sorry about that, I guess, but once its out, PR-battle, and Knut the White Demon of Ba´al Moloch, grew stronger and more booking service in the City. you can surely order it from somewhere influencial than ever before, sitting on his throne in Berlin, the heart of United on the Internet. That place has lots of stuff Europe. We specialize in customizing travel going for it. I hope we will be able to turn the tables in this fight but the enemy is formiddable. packages to suit your interests and needs. Also, I had the good fortune of sitting We cannot expect to win if people don´t know the enemy. Those who want to get We can arrange your accommodation, transfers, tours, flights in a bus that rode through Poland in Feb- more information on the conspiracy, get more articles and study the history of ruary. I missed my flight from Berlin and the Beast going back to the dawn of man, can send questions and comments to and car rental, based on had to catch one from Warsaw. I had to get [email protected]. your requirements. to Warsaw via some budget bus. It was ac- Regards, tually a pretty shitty experience all in all, Dr. Berthold Manz the bus was cold and it rained in there for Co-Founder of the Albrecht foundation against Animal influence in the EU. some reason, and I had to spend a lot of money to get back to Reykjavík. Still, I was Dear Dr. Berthold, pretty happy to have ridden through Po- Holy fucking shit. This is unnerving information. Hope the free beer helps you land, the folks I met there were extraordi- drown out your worries. Since THE BEAST is taking over and all, we might as well narily nice, and I got a real good kebab at party down during our last days of freedom, right? Hope you don’t mind it’s POLAR some rest stop. And what I saw of it looked BEER you’ll be using for the last skáls. WELCOME CARD real cool. I plan on going back. Also, have you seen Zeitgeist and Zeitgeist Addendum? Or Nine Eleven Loose Change? Do these beasts have anything to do with those conspiracies, ya think?

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Authorised by BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / 580 5400 / [email protected] / www.re.is Icelandic Tourist Board The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson gave a candid interview, and he argued his views vigorously. You might not neccessary agree with his convictions, but at 6 least he has some.

Articles | Interview The Architect Of The Collapse? - The Professor Professes As for the collapse, bear in mind hand there was Davíð Oddson, who that the world is undergoing a deep warned that this could happen and recession that did not start In Iceland lost the battle with Goliath. Goliath but in the United States, with the beat David in the battle of the media subprime loan market, etc. The law [a controversial bill Oddson’s question we should be asking isn’t government attempted to pass that what caused the depression: rather, would have severely constricted what made it come down harder on ownership of the Icelandic media. The Icelanders than any other nation? law, which many believed was aimed My answer to that is that there are directly at Fréttablaðið and Baugur’s three reasons. Firstly, a system error move into the media world, was passed surfaced in the EEA treaty, because in parliament before President Ólafur the Icelandic banks’ operational field Ragnar Grímsson refused to validate was the whole of Europe while their it]. That battle was in many ways about reinsurance system was confined to intellectual and political hegemony in Iceland, and Iceland couldn’t back up Iceland. such large operations. They grew too Then of course the Left Greens big. This is a system flaw: the fields opposed this development: they are of operations and reinsurance should against the accumulation of wealth. coincide. The rest of us are not against that, The second reason is the we just don’t want the wealthy to rule bullishness of the Brits, which isn’t everything, sending us decrees from discussed much in Iceland. For a while, their yachts and private jets with those they put our Ministry of Finance and cell phones of theirs. That’s not the our Central Bank on a list of terrorist society we fought for. We fought for a organisations like the Taliban and Al society where the power is distributed Qaeda. You can see how ridiculous that among everyone. is when Iceland doesn’t even have an army. Some say they did this to prevent But I fail to understand how everything the Icelandic banks from siphoning could just... go to hell in 2004. That funds away from the UK, but right year, after everything had been before this happened Lehman Bros deregulated and the banks sold off, went bankrupt and they transported you wrote a column in the Wall Street a lot of funds from the UK back to Journal, proclaiming that Iceland was the US. Still, the Brits didn’t put the the world’s most successful laissez faire US government or Central Bank on capitalism experiment... a list of terrorist organisations. Why? And I stand by that statement. Because Iceland is small enough to Nothing went wrong in 2004, but the push around. The US is too large to be roots of 2008’s defeat lie in the power bullied like that. structures that were upset in 2004. Lastly, the third reason is the recklessness of Icelandic bankers. This But if we can boast of the most is the only thing that’s being discussed successful free market capitalism in Iceland, although I am not of the experiment, if we are in that good opinion that it’s the main reason for a standing in 2004... And we’ve in Iceland being hit harder than any other your opinion implemented most of nation. But it is something everyone the deregulation and governmental can have an opinion on, and this is why changes that we could handle at the it’s such a big part of the discourse. But time... how can you say that what we’re I think these three reasons explain why experiencing now isn’t a result of that? Iceland is hit harder than any other What happened here was that a nation. plutocracy was created. The ancient Greek philosopher Plato differentiated If everything went so great in Iceland between tyranny, democracy and until 2004, when Davíð Oddson plutocracy. We went from pluralistic stepped down as PM, what went wrong democracy to plutocracy after 2004. after that? Firstly, there was weak political Say you’re right. Couldn’t that shift leadership and secondly, the nation’s be directly attributed to all the balance of power was upset. In a deregulation and privatisation you civilised society, no one party may fought for, supported and boasted of? hold too much power. You need to Our regulatory environment is have a certain counterbalance between exactly the same as in other EEA different parties, mutual restraint countries so that isn’t the explanation. and supervision. And in Iceland it The main explanation of how badly Political science professor Hannes Most of our readers are likely not So you were in a position to influence happened that Goliath beat David; the credit crisis hit us is the EEA Hólmsteinn Gissurarson is a peculiar familiar with you. Could you tell us a state policy and implement your the tycoons, aided by the President system flaw which I pointed out and fellow. An ardent follower of the free bit about yourself? ideologies because you are a friend of Iceland, acquired ownership of the Brits bullying. The recklessness market teachings of F.A. von Hayek and My name is Hannes Hólmsteinn and accomplice with the former Prime all the media in Iceland—except for of Icelandic bankers, which is only a Milton Friedman, he is often referred Gissurarson, and I am a professor of Minister? the Grapevine—and simply secured small part of why things went wrong, to as the Independence Party’s chief Political Science at the University of It’s a bit more complicated than total media power over the country. can be attributed to a lack of oversight ideologue and has been credited with Iceland. I am also an independent that. What happened here in Iceland Iceland in the years 2004–2008 by the authorities, from politicians, the laying down the lines for the massive writer; I have written several books, was that we had for long lived under turned into Klondike, a gold rush judicial system and the media. They de-regulation and privatisation process fifteen in all, on diverse subjects: a closed economy and were stagnant town where capitalists were completely did not get the right message, that they Iceland underwent during the past two biographies, books on property rights in many areas. Eventually a new unrestrained and unsupervised. should show restraint. decades. Indeed, he openly and loudly and fishery managements, and on generation became influential around I am of the opinion that capitalists All the media played along with the takes credit for it, and the ensuing era political philosophy, my real field. and after 1990, and I was part of can be very useful, but only under tycoons. And so did most politicians. of prosperity that Iceland seemed to I finished my doctorate in political that generation. I wrote books and the right rules and regulations: then The leader of the Social Democratic experience as a result. philosophy from Oxford University in translated books by great free-market they benefit others with their great Alliance defended the tycoons in her Now, of course, ‘Icelandic 1985 and have since then worked in thinkers, such as Milton Friedman and capabilities and diligence. Between Borgarnes speech in 2003. So you prosperity’ and ‘economic miracles’ Iceland. Friedrich A. Hayek. It all amounted 2004 and 2008, this wasn’t ensured, see, the parties that were meant to be seem far removed and distant, dark to something, and in 1991 a new for instance because the media did keeping them in check did not do so. dreams from the past. You have also worked with the government started implementing a not provide any sort of supervision or That explains their recklessness. So did the professor’s plan go Independence Party for a long time. lot of what I had fought for in my youth. criticism and supervisory authorities Personally I think they are mostly wrong? Is the collapse a result of his You’ve often been referred to as the party such as the Financial Supervisory hard-working men that mean well, but teachings and influence within the ideologue. Maybe in light of all that influence, Authority did not fulfil their roles well things went wrong because they need Independence Party, the party who’s You could say that I had a lot of some have lately taken to calling you enough. Politicians egged them on and to be monitored, like the rest of us. eighteen year reign of governing opportunities to implement my ideas ‘the architect of Iceland’s economic the President was a cheerleader for Iceland saw the island grow from and ideologies in the years 1991-2004, collapse’... these men. Here in Iceland we danced You mean that society failed? humble fishing outpost to de-regulated when Davíð Oddson was Prime Minister, That’s absurd. If you think about it around the golden calf, as the Bible What happened is that the banks free market paradise to rapidly sinking because we are good friends and for a second. Who would want to aim says. grew very rapidly. And they were death rock? collaborators. I will gladly acknowledge for or instigate economic collapse? Iceland should not have been run only reinsured in Iceland, and it was Are the ideologies flawed, or were that I supported a lot of the changes Nobody wants that, but things may from yachts and private jets. It should discovered that this wasn’t sufficient our implementations of them flawed that were made in our economic system well collapse if they aren’t well built. have been run by many different in such a credit crisis. That is nobody’s – or is the collapse perhaps caused during that time: We increased freedom What we did in those years is that we power centres. An independent fault. This is the main reason why by something completely different? of trade and of the individual, lowered brought Iceland to a similar standard judicial system, diligent media, things went the way they did. I am We caught up with Gissurarson, an taxes, opened up the economy, privatised that many of our neighbouring honest politicians and hard-working merely trying to explain the third excellent conversationalist, and had a and deregulated. I think it was a great countries enjoy, countries such as the capitalists, and of course the public. reason to you, the recklessness of the chat about success. When we left the scene in 2004, UK, Australia, New Zealand, the US There were really only two players of bankers. And that was because Goliath the whole thing. Iceland was one of the richest and most and Canada. Iceland became one of the game that opposed this evolution, beat David. free nations in the world. those wealthy, free societies. but for different reasons. On one CONTINUES OVER... CHECK OUT OUR DAY TOURS BROCHURE WITH OUR NEW SPECIAL AUTUMN RATES

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Articles | Interview Opinion | Valur Gunnarsson

CONTINUED FROM PG6 But isn’t deregulating the market a key shocked by their ruthlessness and So it’s Fréttablaðið’s fault? The factor in creating prosperity, according aggressiveness, but I assumed they Capitalism: economic collapse can in part be traced to you? were smart businessmen. That was to the media bill not being passed? I am personally of the opinion one mistake. The fight over the media law is that capitalists fare best when they Another thing that surprised me Its Last 100 Years maybe mostly symbolic for a certain are creating wealth. They do not fare was that Landsbankinn invested battle in society between people like well controlling a society and they so much money in them. Lastly, I Capitalism is dead. This and the French were busy squeezing Davíð Oddsson, who wanted tycoons should not buy entire political parties believe I should have better supported may come as news to no and in no mood to let others in on to stay in their place, being useful and and media outlets, so as to avoid their Davíð Oddson when he criticised the one, but the implications the game. And so the major industrial making money, and their opponents. criticisms. magnates. I grew up on Hayek and are vast. In fact, it changes countries, Germany, Great Britain, What was the battle of 2004 about? The Social Democratic Alliance did Friedman, on their beliefs that wealthy everything. We have always known France and eventually the US, along It was about whether tycoons should everything the magnates wanted them capitalists were useful for society. As I that capitalism was a brutally unfair with the industrialising Russian Empire, own all the media and control all the to. The media did their biddings and said before, that is still my conviction, system of distributing society’s wealth. invented a new kind of warfare, opinion making in the country. We the courts did as well. And is that the and it is backed up by centuries of What we did not know was that total war. By its nature, this led to went through a great struggle between fault of libertarianism? How can you experience and evidence. capitalism would be so bad for the a breakdown in trade and massive David and Goliath, where Goliath was blame libertarianism for Ingibjörg But I still should have supported capitalists themselves, or that they government intervention on every level. the president of Iceland along with the Sólrún Gísladóttir saying in her Davíð more strongly in his fight could be so incompetent when it came The war, which was partly fought over tycoons; the people on the private jets Borgarnes speech that you couldn’t against Goliath. to creating wealth. We did not know access to markets, led to their demise. and yachts. And they won. criticize Kaupþing? that the capitalists had no clue when it The backbone of capitalism, the Pound There is a misconception going that Which Icelandic party bears the most came to making money. Sterling, went off the gold standard. I’ve been reading your articles and since Davíð Oddson and his supporters responsibility for our current state of In fact, capitalism has never After the end of hostilities, an attempt watching you on television for almost were powerful between 1991 and 2004, affairs? created anything (bar misery). All was made to resurrect capitalism. The twenty years, on talk shows and on they kept control after that, and steered The Baugur team. It is obvious, and the technological wonders that have gold standard was reintroduced in the news. I’ve heard your criticisms the development after that. But he quit I am not saying this out of personal changed our lives so much these 1925 but eventually abandoned in 1931. and suggestions and ideas on how in 2004. hatred or dislike. They are the biggest past 100 years have been created The attempt to revive capitalism had to improve society, and how our debtors; we have a credit bubble and by gigantic government institutions. led to financial collapse and even a communities are best run. And I’ve What is your opinion on ideological who took these loans? It was them and Perhaps there was a time when Great Depression. heard you boast about how successful responsibility? their friends, the men with the cellular independent entrepreneurs such as we’ve been, as late as last year you The answer is that everyone that has phones on the yachts and in the private Edison or the Wright Brothers could THE END OF THE CAPITALIST boasted that the deregulation and favoured the free market, a freedom jets. come up with something new, but that EXPERIMENT privatisation of everything—the of choice on consumer products and time is long past. Inventions these Most thinkers at the time realised climate you claim to have helped everything else... I don’t think that You’ve been quoted as saying that days are so costly and time consuming that the capitalist experiment was create—contributed to the well being people who favour consumer choice everyone, save for Davíð Oddson, is that it is only governments on a war over. It was only saved by the timely and wealth of the Icelandic nation. You and freedom of trade can be held responsible for the recession... footing that have the resources to outbreak of World War Two. This again said that we owed our prosperity to the responsible for the fact that capitalism I used one reference from the commit to them. The jet engine, the led to massive government intervention changes that your party implemented fluctuates and goes through periods of Bible earlier, about the dance around computer, the internet, GPS and GSM and technological advancement. After in our system of government. instability. It’s thankfully not as stable the golden calf. There is another are all compliments of World War II or the end of the war, no attempt was Then everything goes to hell, we as a system where everyone is equally reference relevant here; the voice in the the Cold War. They are then handed made to revive unregulated capitalism. find ourselves in the final chapters poor, and where nothing happens. I wilderness. I feel at times that Oddsson over to private enterprise, which Instead, regulation became the order of ‘The Road To Serfdom’ and it’s would say that it’s very strange if the was the voice in the wilderness. I am makes inferior versions that need to be of the day. This was partially because suddenly the fault of your political free market thinkers are blamed for not saying that he was infallible or upgraded every other week. of the lessons of the Great Depression, opponents. You had no problem taking world recession. perfect, or that everything he did was This is not to say that war is good, partly because the fear of communism credit, ideological or otherwise, when That being said, as soon as you right—he made his mistakes like only to stress that capitalism cannot do led the leaders of capitalist countries things were going well, yet now you create freedom, you create a risk, do everyone else, he is frail and human. anything right. It corrupts our bodies to adapt some of communism’s refuse to accept any responsibility you not? As soon as you leave your But he was the first to see the dangers and our environment, and in the end it attributes. In fact, this system whatsoever or attribute it to the system parents’ house as a young man, you of the ascending plutocracy. even does the one thing it said it would worked so well for almost 30 years you implemented. This doesn’t make are at a risk. But if you get yourself in never do, it destroys the market itself. that it seemed this strange hybrid of sense to me. It sounds like a huge cop- trouble, is that somebody else’s fault? But doesn’t that place an unfair burden government regulated capitalism might out. The main thing should be to limit the on him, even? THE 100 YEAR WAR prevail. I’ve already explained to you the damage to the one that causes it. But who else...? I’ll ask you a So, capitalism, as we all know, is dead. But it was not to be. In 1971, as a three reasons for why the credit crisis And that’s one of the reasons I feel simple question, who else, on normal In fact, we can soon celebrate the consequence of the Vietnam War, the hit Icelanders so badly, and two of it’s absurd for us to accept responsibility premises instead of a sick hatred for 100th anniversary of its demise. For US Dollar went off the gold standard. them have nothing at all to do with for the damage that Landsbanki the wealthy, warned about the dangers you see, the capitalist system broke Nothing had any real value anymore, the changes and progresses we made caused with Icesave. We never signed of the Icelandic plutocracy? down in 1914. and governments gave up all attempts during the nineties and early 2000s. any commitments. I believe that By the early 20th Century, to control markets. We are now The third reason, the recklessness, can those that do well should reap the Sick hatred for the wealthy? capitalism was spinning towards its seeing the logical conclusion. Even if be explained by lack of supervision, but benefits, and those who do ill should Yes, I am talking about the Left inevitable conclusion. Every part of it may temporarily revive this system, that doesn’t explain anything. equally suffer the consequences. The Green party. They are against the the world had been colonised and which has been kept artificially alive The nations that are most free Icelandic nation should therefore not wealthy, because they dislike them. But the magnates wept for there were no for almost a century, it is in its death in the world are the ones that offer cover Landsbankinn’s debt. How can answer me this, who else warned of the new markets to conquer. All of the five throes. In two or three or five years the most prosperity. It is not free a nation be expected to pay the debt of plutocracy? richest men in history had amassed time, another crisis will hit and the market capitalism’s fault that we had private companies? their wealth and were alive during this people will again be called upon to a subprime loan crisis. That can be Is it fair to make it a condition to period, according to Forbes magazine. bail out banks and corporations that directly attributed to state intervention But speaking of responsibility, are we, have supported tycoons that weren’t The American oligarchs Rockefeller, have become too large to be allowed in the market. You cannot blame the then, responsible for letting things go the Baugur father-son team or their Carnegie and Vanderbilt controlled to fail without dragging the whole free market for the subprime crisis, too far? friends? US industry. Even tsar Nicholas II of world down with them. But these flaws in the EEA regulation or the Brits If I make a mistake, I freely admit Other people’s success doesn’t Russia was infinitely richer than his solutions are temporary. The time invoking terrorist law against Iceland. it. And I think I’ve been wrong in two bother me; it doesn’t deprive me of predecessors, while his countrymen will come when there will be nothing As for the lack of oversight and or three instances. I did not believe sleep. I think the Left Greens are a remained destitute. The fifth, Asaf Jah left to squeeze out of the pockets of supervision, I think that was an the men behind Baugur [father completely different story. ‘Distribute VII of India, was under the protection taxpayers or even out of the soil itself. accident that happened, but I think and son team Jóhannes Jónsson misery equally,’ that’s the leftist creed. of the British until India became an This system cannot stand. It is time for that the critics of capitalism should and Jón Ásgeir Jóhannesson] were independent country and deposed him another. agree with me that capitalists need such bad businessmen as we are in 1948. now witnessing. I thought their The Germans wanted colonies of to be monitored and supervised. And HAUKUR S MAGNÚSSON they weren’t between 2004 and 2008. investments were sensible. I was BALDUR KRISTJÁNSSON their own to squeeze, but the British

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58·12345 www.dominos.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Rebecca Louder is our latest and greatest Issue 13 — 2009 intern. She hails from Montréal, Canada, and For all your dance festival needs: full schedule at www.dancefestival.is.. word has it that she has a tattoo of Iceland. 10 Which is kinda scary.

Culture | Dancing, yeah, dancing Opinion | Rebecca Louder

three of their most popular pieces to the the public eye with two Dance Parades in Northern capital. In November, they’ll downtown Reykjavík. An Open Letter Dance Party! delve deeper into the avant-garde with In addition, it will be attended by Jam Week, a four night run of two-for-one several directors of international dance to the Guy Who What’s on tap for fall? (Surprisingly, no tap) performances. These performances will companies and festivals. The festival be more experimental and unpredictable, is one of the few opportunities that where the choreographers will have to independent choreographers and dancers Tried to Run work with whatever happens. It may in Iceland have to show their work, so it appeal to a more experienced dance fan is a great chance for them to be seen by Me Over or to the daring uninitiated who is up for the big wigs, as well as a great chance to a more challenging and exciting show. expose new people to modern dance who Throughout the month of December, might not get to otherwise. ticket holders at the Reykjavík City Theatre Halla Ólafsdóttir, a founding member will be treated to a twenty minute dance of Samsuðan & Co., has been involved appetizer prior to the play they have come with the festival for the past two years to see for only 490 ISK extra. This will and will be performing in ‘Grease, The give the theatre lover a chance to become Deleted Scenes’ this year. She describes a dance lover as well. The Company will the festival as a true celebration of dance Dear guy in the black SUV, then take a brief lull as they prepare for and a way for the dance community to Maybe you missed the memo, but their big February show choreographed collaborate and pool their resources. it is fairly common knowledge that the by Alan Lucien Oyen, one of Norway’s “What I think is very exciting about the order of movement at an intersection is bright young talents. Oyen is reputed Icelandic dance scene right now is that pedestrian-car-pedestrian-car. It might for a very lyrical style, incorporating people are extremely willing and excited have gone to you junk folder. It happens. Iceland is well known for boasting an into the performance. This has set a tall elements of speech into his beautiful, about doing things,” says Halla, “the Still, I don’t really understand why you impressive art community of every sort order for the company in the upcoming flowing pieces. Finally, something to community really wants to share and felt the need to go pedal-to-the-metal and for every walk of life, and dance is no season, but they are not shying away from look forward to in the long-term will be make things happen.” on my ass when I had patiently waited exception. Although the size of the dance the task, going onward and upward. “The the closing performance in May 2010, It is still a matter of economics for the car in front of you to go by and community is directly proportional to season ahead is quite ambitious,” says Jóhann Jóhannsson’s Fordlandia with the though—they only received funding started scuttling across Pósthússtræti. the size of the country, the quality and Jóhanna Pálsdóttir, marketing director Reykjavík Symphony. This performance from the municipal government, but First of all, you were tailgating the breadth of options is nothing to shake at ID, “what we’re trying to do is offer will be put on during the Reykjavík Arts not the state—so they are operating on person in front of you, which is a pretty a stick at. After taking a nice summer something for everyone, for young and Festival and will be a spellbinding way to a much smaller budget than previous dickish move to begin with. I mean— vacation, the city’s movers and shakers old, for people who have just started to close the year and start next summer. years. All the performers are volunteering unless you enjoy breathing in extra are coming back this autumn with new attend dance and people who are really their works, and all the shows will be free carbon monoxide and exhaust fumes shows, new artists and the gumption to into it.” GOTTA DANCE NOW? with a request for donations to help fund from other cars—what’s the point? You power through the tough times. They kick off in September with The first week of September will be a next year’s festival. For those without might as well just grab a paper bag, their annual Family Performance, big one for the little guys. The Reykjavík wheels to get to Hafnarfjörður, there will huff some gas and chill out (note: I do THE BIG KAHUNAS which puts together a collage of their Dance Festival is coming back for its be a free bus departing from downtown not in any way condone huffing gas. Last April, the Iceland Dance best shows and favourite pieces. The 7th year from September 3rd to the at Karamba (Laugavegi 22) forty-five It’s beyond gross). Second, I know I am Company’s 2008–2009 season closed family oriented, kid friendly show will 7th at the Hafnarfjörður Theatre. minutes before each performance and incredibly short and there is a chance with a momentous performance in the be on Sunday afternoons in September With independent choreographers coming back after. you can’t see the top of my head up Blue Lagoon choreographed by Erna and October and free for children under and performers out the wazoo, and there in your two-storey high driver’s Ómarsdóttir. The audience were literally 12, making it a great weekend activity. presenting no less than six new Icelandic seat, but that ain’t my fault either. If you immersed in the show’s physical setting, They will also travel up to Akureyri in dance pieces, they will also continue their did your driver’s education right, you REBECCA LOUDER raising the bar on drawing the spectator October for two performances, bringing goal of bringing contemporary dance into should be watching out for tiny moving things like myself no matter what the size of your car. Truck drivers seem to coffee machines and water coolers to For future instalments of the course avoid killing me, so why can’t you? Doing it For Themselves other companies. He has since been the young organisers are hoping to get But I know you saw me! I fucking involved with several entrepreneurial sponsors onboard to invest 500,000 made eye contact with you as I started Students help students help Iceland, as it were endeavours in Iceland and abroad. After ISK toward the start-up costs of the crossing and right before you tried to some rough calculations, Haukur and most promising companies. “That is the plow me down! YOU EFFING SAW business owners, entrepreneurs and his peers were optimistic in May that minimum amount of capital you need to ME. Thanks tons for stopping before teachers, and go through the process of the course they organised would result start a company, so we want to take away breaking my hip. Even at the quick starting their own companies. More than in the establishment of approximately 50 that obstacle. Plus sponsoring these pace I walk, I wouldn’t have been able 200 people attended the first lecture new companies and, a few years down new companies would be a good way to dodge your massive bumper. So at Hugmyndahús on May 18th and the road, the creation of nearly 200 for larger companies to advertise, since yeah, I stopped and gave you the ‘I’m attendance stayed strong throughout new jobs in Iceland. Once all was said they would be associating themselves walking here!’ look and refrained from the summer. and done the reality is that more than with helping the community.” smacking the hood of your car and “It’s the situation in Iceland now, I’m in twenty companies are in the process of Haukur admits that planning and actually shouting it. school and most of the people organising being established, some of them having running such an endeavour takes up a So what is your problem anyway? this class are as well. We noticed that already started up. significant amount of time for the young Students of the University of Reykjavík Nearly all motorists in this city have there aren’t a lot of opportunities now, “We’re hoping that if those organisers, all of whom are doing so have been doing good by their peers. good enough reflexes to stop when it’s difficult to get a job now over the companies continue to grow, the number entirely without pay. With the response This spring five of them—Haukur they see a moving human in front of summertime,” explained course creator of jobs may increase to 400 or so in the to the premiere seminar so positive, Guðjónsson, Peter Rydahl Mols, Þórunn them, and most are kind enough to Haukur Guðjónsson. “We saw that a lot next two years,” Haukur projected. “The there is already a waiting list for yet to Jónsdottir, Jóhanna Dýrunn Jónsdóttir, wave us through ahead of them. I build of students have nothing to do over the average aluminium factory has about be planned future instalments. It is likely and Þórdís Katla Bjartmarz—identified a my karma by giving them all a gracious summer and thought about what we that many people and the government is that the course will be repeated in the need among young people for something nod in return. So who are you trying could possibly do to help the situation. always implying that big companies are autumn or next winter. to do during the summer, so they to be? The exception that proves the We had a little bit of background in the solution, but we at the seminar agree For more information about the dedicated their time to creating a course rule? Some kind of colossal jackass? starting companies ourselves, so we that the solution lies in the small ones.” entrepreneurial seminar or to get on so that they, in turn, can create jobs Were you just busy and stressed and thought it would be a good idea to help The course is considered to have the waiting list for upcoming seminars, for themselves and others. Organised preoccupied by your very important people start their own companies so been a great success. It wrapped up at check out their blog, ww.stofnun. in cooperation with Innovit and KLAK, life? they could be using their time wisely.” the end of July with a small ceremony to bloggar.is. the entrepreneurial course brought Chill out man. I would appreciate not A business student, Haukur, 27, present certificates to those participants young people together twice weekly to getting killed. started his first company in 2005: a who had submitted completed business CATHARINE FULTON brainstorm and bounce ideas off each Yours, small service business that leased plans. JULIA STAPLES other, listen to input and advice from Rebecca

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>XZaVcY^X H]ZZe;VgbZgh [email protected] / photo: ÁJS photo: / [email protected] The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 Marc Vincenz keeps delving into Transcendental Iceland Next time, I go in search of a real down and dirty exorcism with ectoplasm and spitting demons—you know just like that 1975 12 movie with Max von Sydow. Wish me luck and hope that Bónus is not sold out of garlic again—oh no, that’s vampires.

Transcendental Iceland | Part 6: Dark Matters and All That Bloomin’ Energy Radio To The Other Side In search of the Real McCoy ‘It’s all in vibration, like a grand Words symphony. Everything in the Universe Marc Vincenz is vibrating energy. Healthy life is about being in synch with the primal energy source,’ says Kristbjörg.

So maybe, just maybe, energy is not only about creating the ideal conditions for A word of warning: This one could end basic life, the speed of light, and a Weight up being a real mind-bender. Hold on to Watcher’s diet; perchance energy is also your seats. about creativity, some form of Cosmic First, to put things into crystal clear will or divine force; about the Universe’s perspective, here are a few significant ultimate drive towards complexity. Here’s facts: an idea: Perhaps the energy itself is the communicator of the Universe’s innate 1) The Milky Way galaxy holds intelligence? something to the tune of 100 billion stars Then, is there a message hidden in 2) There are probably around 100 billion all that energy? And what about that dew galaxies in the observable Universe water? 3) Guess how many planets there might Yokohama’s Emoto Masaru talks to actually be? water. He claims that emotions directed at water will result in representative How could there bloody well not be life images in the water when frozen: The out there? word ‘beauty’ creates stunning water One thing we do know is that energy is crystals; the word ‘evil’ creates gnarled, absolutely everywhere, and every darned troll-troglodyte crystalline lumps. And of thing is here because of energy. What course Kristbjörg knows Emoto, this is all we don’t know exactly is where the stuff a small circle; in fact, shortly, Emoto will comes from originally, and, in many be conducting his experiments with her cases, where precisely it goes; what we do own flower essences. know is that it’s always present, constantly And then, coming back to the big reinventing itself. This may be one of picture, there’s the ever-evasive Dark the very fundamentals of the Universe. Matter. Unless there’s something were entirely Recently cosmologists report that the missing which is, of course, entirely Universe consists of more of what they possible. call ‘Dark Matter’ than anything else. Kristbjörg Elín Kristmundsdóttir is an Thus far, Dark Matter cannot be seen, alternative chemist. I call her a modern only inferred by its gravitational pull. It day alchemist; she says she taps the purest is, for all intents and purposes, entirely form of emotional energy from flowers invisible. which she then goes on to provide, diluted While trying to unravel the underlying in crystal clear Icelandic water, to her mechanism of the Cosmos, why gravity is clients. She’s quite cryptic as to how she present everywhere and planetary systems procures these healing forces: cluster rather than shoot off into space, ‘Ah, that’s a secret. No, seriously, I Dark Matter was discovered, er, inferred. have a special method for each plant, but it Some speculate Dark Matter may be the depends on many factors: the Sun, water, reason why Einstein never got beyond his the Moon, a little bit of my own special…’ Theory of Relativity and managed to close Alchemy? Magic? Energy-harnessing in on his ever-elusive Unified Theory of device based on some cryptic Da Vinci Everything. code? So, next time you snigger at an In contemporary physics, energy is Aunt who says she has just had tea with a measured quantity that describes the Huldufólk, or scoffed at a Granny who amount of work that can be performed knitted a sweater for her favourite elf, by a force. According to the Law of remember: not even Stephen Hawking Conservation of Energy, energy can external source of energy, even those Edward Bach, medical-professional- says, ‘All disease begins on an emotional knows what that ominous Dark Matter neither be produced nor destroyed, only weird tube worms down near those turned-holistic-pioneer, invented the level. We create weaknesses in our is... yet. Perhaps it’s right there, in the dark transformed. And, total energy always geothermal vents. The Sun, ultimate whole flower essence thing in the early systems because we are not in tune with of the unseen Dark Matter where all those remains the same. So, the energy which life-giver, starts a whole shebang chain- 1900s. He never touched the flowers, our chakras [our energies]. Create a stable invisible folks are hiding – energetically? existed at the very beginning of the of-events; plants gobble pure sunlight— simply collected the morning dew that lay flow of energy, through meditation, The message I infer from all of this Universe is still the same amount it possibly the closest thing to pure energy shimmering opalescent on their petals. through connection to your emotional- is: Where there’s energy, life is bound always was—it may have transmuted, but around—producing our own life-giving Bach believed that early morning sunlight self, and disease is much less likely to to arise, and where there’s life, sooner it’s still here seething in all its wondrous oxygen. Unseen, but truly felt. Breathe in, transferred the healing power of the plant rear its ugly head.’ Being one with the or later intelligence will evolve, and quarks and sparks—everywhere: in breathe out. into the dew water. He only used one drop Universe is what it’s all about. communicate. Stay in tune with it, and flowers, humans too. And although Kristbjörg doesn’t mixed in with litres of tap water to create Even modern medical science, the Cosmos is your own bloody oyster. And, remember: every living really reveal anything, I do a bit of soul- his famous elixirs. I’m assuming that although extremely wary of holistic For those of you who would like to organism here on Earth relies on some searching-earth-digging myself, and Kristbjörg’s process is not dissimilar. practices, acknowledges the power of send fan or hate mail to Marc, or might find a little old man who worked in the But can it really be as simple as all positive thinking. Even if it’s just placebo be willing to share their own ethereal 1. Waterbugs original Bach flower essences factory that? No bat’s wings? No cauldron? effect, it has been known to miraculously experiences, please feel free to drop him (yes, factory) in ‘ye olde’ England. Guðbjörg Sveinsdóttir, the clairvoyant, cure cancers and other deathly diseases. a line at: [email protected].

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K^h^illl#ad`Va#^hVcYlll#YVcXZ[Zhi^kVa#^h[dg[jgi]Zg^c[dgbVi^dc The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 14

Literature | Interview Purging Some Past At The Reykjavík International Literary Festival Sofi Oksanen on international sex trade and the USSR

“Violence porn would have been too easy solution. I wanted readers to be able to identify with the victim. Clinical description of a rape do not tell you anything about the victim’s experiences,” Oksanen explains. Purge was initially a play Oksanen wrote for the Finnish National Theatre. When the play was practiced in the theatre, Oksanen began turning the story into novel. “I do a lot of associative work when I write. And I must say that the text for this novel came out pretty fast, since the story and the characters were already there from the play,” says Oksanen. “Purge actually has its roots in a story that I heard when I was a child. An Estonian mother and her daughter found a wounded soldier close to their house. They took him in and hid him into their home. Somebody from the neighbourhood talked, and so Soviet authorities took the daughter to interrogation. After the interrogation night she stopped talking,” she summarises. Besides all the stories heard from Estonian relatives, Oksanen also researched Purge by reading Estonian women’s magazines from 1920s. “After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Estonian used bookstores started selling old Estonian magazines. It was amazing to see the 1920's and 1930's in photos, since there was hardly any visual material Finnish-Estonian writer Sofi Oksanen violence and mass killings. Estonia available from these times up until then. will read at the Reykjavík International regained independence only after the When I was reading these magazines, it Literary Festival this September. Her collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991. looked the same as Finland in the times latest novel, Purge, was Finland’s While Purge is set in Estonia in of gaining its independence. It was very bestselling book last year and the 1990s, the novel also flashes back to confusing.” translation rights have been sold to 23 Estonia’s period of Sovietisation in All the Estonian magazines were countries. The Grapevine met up with the late forties and early fifties. In it, prohibited during the Soviet occupation, the 32-year shining star of Finnish Oksanen explores Estonian reality, from World War II to the collapse of the literature in Helsinki a couple of weeks including the inevitable shadows of Soviet Union. “Who was hiding these ago to discuss – amongst other things – both the Soviet Union and, later, Russia. magazines all those decades? It is a the Soviet Union and international sex Nevertheless, the fundamental themes mystery. But it’s great that they did.” trade. are universal. The author examines “However, there was not so much “I have always known that writing is how history informs not only a nation’s material regarding human trafficking. my thing,” she says without hesitation as development, but also the individual’s I used the material I had, for example we meet in Helsinki. spirit and life choices. Viktor Malarek’s report The Natashas, Her first novel, Stalin’s Cows, came Purge tells the story of two women which is a covering report of modern sex out in 2003 and was an instant success. of different generations, exploring their trade in Europe.” Baby Jane followed two years later. But experiences with the loss of freedom. Trafficking women and children it was with her latest novel, Purge, that The year is 1992. Alide Truu lives for sex industry is an ugly aspect of Oksanen hit the jackpot, selling over in the Estonian countryside. One day, modernity. It’s the third biggest black 130.000 copies in Finland alone (to Alide discovers a young woman lying market business, after drugs and the offer some perspective, Dan Brown’s unconscious in her front yard. The weapons trade. Should governments DaVinci Code sold 150.000). Among Russian-Estonian Zara turns out to be criminalize buying sex? the many awards bestowed upon Purge on the run from the Russian mafia, a “Absolutely not. The more visible was Finland’s premier literary award, pawn in the global sex trade industry prostitution is, the safer the situation The Finlandia Award 2008, making who sought a well-paid job in the West for the weakest participant. If a western Oksanen the youngest author ever to like so many others. Her fate is reflected country criminalizes prostitution, it win this prestigious prize. in her host’s history, a time of night- means that sex tourism increases. People Purge takes place in Estonia and its time interrogations, when thousands of will go abroad to buy sex. It’s not fair if of health main characters are an old Estonian families were shipped off to Siberia and welfare countries like Finland outsource A source woman in her seventies, Alide Truu, partisans hid in the forests. their problems to poorer countries like and twentysomething Estonian girl By interweaving these two women’s Estonia or Russia.” Thermal pools and baths in Reykjavik are a source of Zara. The novel revolves around ideas lives and destinies, Oksanen examines In Oksanen’s opinion, the most of power, nationality, sexuality and the searing wounds of the post-war health, relaxation and pureness. 94% of foreign effective way to prevent the illegal sex estrangement. period and also brings the country’s trade and trafficking is to stabilize the guests that visited thermal pools and baths in Those of you that haven’t been recent history into sharp focus. While economy in the poor countries, where Reykjavik said it had a positive effect on their keeping up with their Finnish/Estonian reading the book, it became clear to the poorest ones have little choice. history, Finland got its independence me that Finland’s destiny could have health and well-being. “It’s stupid to moralize the decisions 1917 and Estonia in 1918. In World War been the same as Estonia’s and my life that poor people living in poor conditions II, Finland lost the war against Soviet could have been like the protagonist, a make to survive,” she adds. Union, but kept its independence. modern-day slave of sex trafficking. For An Icelandic translation of Purge Estonia’s destiny was much worse. It was me, Purge was a physical experience. will be out on Forlagið in 2010. occupied by the Soviet army, which was I nearly threw up three times. The the start of the cruel ‘Sovietisation’— horrible violent scenes are told through SATU RÄMÖ Welcome to Reykjavik´s Thermal Pools SOME RANDOM PUBLICIST concentration camps, torture, sexual the victim’s experience. The Reykjavík Int'l Literary Festival Sofi Oksanen joins a long list of talents as David Sedaris, Luis López and a segment dedicated to the Griffin acclaimed international wordsmiths who Nieves, Naja Marie Aidt, Kader Abdolah, Poetry Prize, featuring speeches and have graced the fine city of Reykjavík Jóhann Hjálmarsson, Ingunn Snædal, readings of the noted international poets with their presence over the twenty- Steinar Bragi and Thor Vilhjálmsson in attendance. The 2009 festival events four years and nine instalments of and Griffin Poets Robert Bringhurst, will take place at the Nordic House and the Reykjavík International Literary Dionne Brand, Don McKay and Michael Iðnó. For more information about the Festival. The most prominent of its kind Ondaatje, among others. Reykjavík International Literary Festival in Iceland, the festival has been visited The Reykjavík International Literary and its programme see the Listings by the likes of Haruki Murakami, Kurt Festival is a volunteer-run bi-annual section of this very publication. Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.itr.is • www.spacity.is Vonnegut and Fay Weldon in the past, presentation of author readings, and September 6th through 12th will interviews and panel discussions, and CATHARINE FULTON play host to such international literary also features a publisher’s symposium @V\^PSSL_WLYPLUJLUH[\YLPUHKPMMLYLU[^H` 1 hour Panorama tour 9.900 ISK Taste the 2 hours South Coast tour 15.900 ISK 3-4 hours Trip to the Moon tour 20.000 ISK best of We offer pick up in Reykjavík and Keflavík every day. Price for pick up service is 2.900 ISK and you can choose a time when you want to go to Reykjavík or Iceland ... the airport. We are onln y 5 mins. from the Blue Lagoon 7PJR\W[PTL! -YVT9L`RQH]xR !!! ! Icelandic 9L[\YU! 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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 So, we haven't seen this Reykjavík Whale Watching Massacre ﬁ lm yet. But we love us some slashing blood guts kill fun. So we're hoping it's pretty awesome. 16 Don't get all angry at us if it ain't, tho. We just got all excited about ICEGORE.

Film | Interview SLASH, KILL, BLOOD, GUTS, LOVE, AWESOME Kemp’s Top Júlíus Kemp Premieres the first Icelandic slasher flick Ten All Time sound, etc. How would you describe the Favourite difference? There is of course a vast difference between these kinds of productions Horror Movies and more regular ones. We had to ship in a British sound technician who’d 1. TEXAS CHAINSAW MASSACRE previously worked on projects like Alien vs. Predator, building up a sound library with ludicrous budgets behind him. He basically brought his sound library over. We’re lucky to miss out on the lawsuit-hide and seek involved 2. ALIEN in the sound business, with the big studios overseas, so we could utilize previously fabricated sounds. In my previous works I’d always used Icelandic sound guys and always gotten top-notch results, so I undoubtedly had 3. THE HILLS HAVE EYES (THE some cynic feelings about handing it ORIGINAL ONE) all over to a foreigner. In this situation, though, I felt I had to. The sound and aural ambiance amounts to about 80% of horror f licks like these, so it had to be superb. And I am happy to say it is. The production as a whole was a very slow 4. HIGH TENSION process, the film took over forty days to shoot. It’s set on a boat in a rural area, so it always took at least two days to get there and get things going before the cast could be transported over. Weather is also important, but we were really 5. THE THING Finally! The first Icelandic slasher Sjón returned, he asked us if we’d want is quite a conflict. The story isn’t biased lucky. flick! Icelandic films have hitherto to participate in a project with that kind in either direction, and isn’t political at been characterized by bleak and of theme. Naturally, we jumped at the all. The hunters are of course illustrated How do you think the Icelandic crowd gloomy stories of depressed Icelanders chance. as foul, but the tourists are as well. will react to this new genre in Icelandic trying out every option available to turn The project was originally meant to Everyone has their dark sides, and in film? 6. PSYCHO tails from their down-in-the-dumps boast a budget of 200 million dollars, the end everybody deserves to die. As It’s an unwritten book to me, of existence: There’s been a lot of drama, a but you might say we hit a few obstacles they do. course I hope they’ll like it, but who lot of drinking, and a lot of sex. right away. In time, we decided to lower knows? One thing I’m sure of is that But isn’t there something missing? the guillotine and make it more local How about the funding, was it more the whale watching business will be Any imbecile can see that essential and just go for it, instead of letting it strenuous to gain funding for a feature busy once the movie’s been distributed accessories to the aforementioned sex, fade away in an endless hunt for money. of this genre rather than a more overseas. It’s definitely a positive 7. SCANNERS drama and drinking are blood and gore. “sophisticated” one? injection for those tourist companies. Luckily, The Reykjavík Whale Watching And are you passionate about these kind It really came as a surprise when Massacre. of films? Are you a big fan of splatter? the Icelandic Film Centre, as well as How do you look at this film compared The man behind it all is the I go all around the circuit, but yeah, the other Scandinavian patrons, didn’t to your previous two, are they similar in notorious Júlíus Kemp, both famed for I’ve stood steadily on the sideline of the have anything against our slasher flick. any way. Is there perhaps a red thread making controversial guerrilla flicks splatter biz through time, especially The co-producers also saw potential in running through your work? 8. THE DEVIL’S REJECTS such as Blossi 810551 and Veggfóður, during my adolescence years. In those distribution, which is the main thing This is of course a totally different but also films that address societal days, westerns and splatters were my in all this: potential. The moneybags thing from what I’ve done before as issues such as Strákarnir Okkar. We bread and butter. But Sjón definitely proved to be pro-splatter, eventually. a director; we now have professional caught up with the good man at his has a more extensive background in The mainstream movie industry actors, a genuine crew, some money headquarters. these area; I would even bet he’d seen keeps getting more and more bloody, behind us... So it’s black and white. every single movie ever made. Whale movies such as Angels and Demons— Incomparable. But in this one, as in my 9. WOLF CREEK Whale Watching Massacre, you say. Watching Massacre goes all around featuring Tom Hanks—parade these previous work, you could say I’m valiant. How did you guys come up with such though, and doesn’t only pass as a immensely gory scenes, so you know I’ve always liked to take chances. Blossi a project? splatter; you can find references to the crowd must be supportive of this was a big risk, where we wanted to It all began about five years ago, every single existing genre in film evolution. make a flick about teenagers that really in 2004, when we were working on history, one way or another. didn’t tell any story. It’s of course a a different screenplay with Sjón, And how gory is it exactly? What’s the cliffhanger to produce a splatter movie, 10. CABIN FEVER RWWM’s screenwriter. He attended Tell me about the plot and its origins, is actual body count in WWM? as well as making a film about role- a conference, some sort of animation the story based on any myths or urban Well. Everybody dies except, one playing youngsters such as in Astrópía gathering, where he met some legends—or is it just a fabrication? person. You could just count the names and a gay soccer team, as in Strákarnir enthusiastic Danes that just kinda It’s no folktale, it’s merely make-believe on the poster and subtract one. It’s as Okkar. So you could maybe say my flair put forward the question why anyone fabricated by Sjón. The basic idea was to basic as that, a genuine splatter flick. is to take risks. And if RWWM causes hadn’t already made a movie called create a platform where the two worlds some kind of outburst and gets people Whale Watching Massacre, where would collide; the whale watching Producing a gore-fest such as this must mad, it would of course be great! this controversial issue was addressed business and the whale-hunting racket. include procedures different from the in this horrific way. The blame can It might be an overstatement to call ones in, well, less bloody filmmaking, SIGURÐUR KJARTAN KRISTINSSON probably be placed with them. When what’s going on turmoil, but there sure especially in terms of producing the JULIA STAPLES

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Feature | Re-living the past, sorta Scenes From Menningarnótt See Smell Touch Taste Hear - Recounting a day and night of purported culture in Reykjavík At the Grapevine, we love us some culture and arts and music and poetry and literature and waffles and intoxication and vomiting and drunken stumbling. So naturally, we are quite fond of Menningarnótt. It has all of the above, and more. Recounting the whole experience isn’t an easy task. There is a LOT going on, as you may have noticed if you were there (and if you were not, check out our last issue for an overview of the huuuuuuge programme on offer). We can’t do that. But you can still get a glimpse of what the whole thing was about by reading the following: two different accounts of how two different redheads in their early twenties experienced Menningarnótt. You should also look at the pictures. Enjoy.

Stefson played four songs very quickly, apparently their second set during the concert and apparently as consolation for the absence of FM Belfast who were scheduled to play last but who had not come. As per usual, the kids were full of energy and their songs full of cowbell, a combination that has done a world of good for them as well as their big-brother-band Belfast. It is either a testament to or a condemnation of Culture Night that I had to fight my way through crowds around the Michael Jackson tribute band in order to get to my neighbourhood store and procure a litre of Coke to nurse my hangover. The band was on the stage below Hallgrímskirkja Church on VALGERÐUR ÞÓRODDSDÓTTIR: usually a minor four-way crossing and main room was clean and well-lit, and by what must have been their teacher, Skólavörðustígur and I could hear In the morning it was very quiet and on a fairly large stage someone sat and around every table sat people chatting Óli Geir. The beat of the song was them through an open window when I was very hung over. The apartment was playing a flute. and signing human rights petitions unhurried and steady and the dancers, I got home. I remember thinking that was unusually still and so, it seemed, The waffles promised in the day’s and postcards. Feasting on eager cool and composed, glided in various the singer actually sounded a lot like was the downtown street outside its program were mysteriously, though generosity, drinking kókó mjólk and arrangements across the low stage Michael Jackson, right before I shut windows. It could have been any other perhaps not unexpectedly considering coffee, I shamed myself for having while the surrounding crowd watched the window and closed the blinds. day, really, a thankfully tranquil, who was promising, missing from ever thought that Landsbankinn would attentively, smiling, delighted. Back at square one. Evening had restful, Saturday morning, and to Landsbankinn in Austurstræti, have been the right place to start. On Ingólfsstræti it began to mist finally fallen by the time I left the my drowsy eyes it almost was. But replaced instead by bowls full of stale It was now 3 P.M. and the through the sunlight as Orri and, house again and there was a sort outside the shaded window something kleinur standing sadly near a wall in a crowds had grown significantly, the according to the program, “his friends” of winter holiday feeling in the air, was already brewing; close to 1/3 of corner of the building. thickening mass not yet oppressive displayed the Art of Graffiti on a conjured by a range of people coming the country’s population would be But there was no turning bank. No but existing nonetheless as a dark wall behind Prikið while a group of together to stroll in the evening glow. flooding these streets by the day’s bank’s deception was going to keep me foreshadow, a reminder of how packed people sat on the pavement and looked At a backyard FM Belfast concert peak, providing the biggest crowds, from having my waffle and eating it and impossible the day had been at its on. Further down the street, on its on the corner of Bergþórugata and the most noise and eventually the most too. At the local Amnesty International peak last year. On Lækjartorg Square opposite end, a Garden Concert was in Frakkastígur this mood prevailed vomit the streets of Reykjavik would headquarters on Þingholtsstræti a group of middle-aged women were full swing. After a perfectly pleasant and was only enhanced by a youthful see all year. the waffles were bountiful and the wearing cowboy hats and line dancing couple of songs from a young band charge. A large crowd jumped and The muted serenity of these kleinur fresh and voluptuous. The to the song Somethin’ Stupid, joined whose name I did not catch, Retro pulsated and sang along and Retro surroundings betrayed the reality of what lay ahead, and it was clear that the day would be a long one; according to the Culture “Night” program, the agenda began at 10:00 in the morning and stretched on for over thirteen hours. What wasn’t clear, conversely, was what on said schedule could possibly entice me out of bed on this particularly wretched weekend morning. What it was, it turns out, was waffles. Free waffles, and coffee, to be precise. At four different venues even, in case I was so inclined and appropriately ambitious. Right through the darkly blotted newsprint of the Culture Night schedule God seemed to be winking at me, promising that the indiscretions of the past could be forgiven and forgotten with a sweet patterned cake and plenty of jam and whipped cream. And so it was that I set out more determinedly than I would have thought possible of my ailing state, towards waffles, emphatic and resolute. As I made my way through Þingholtin down towards the pond the day proved to be way ahead of me. Various promotional vendors had set up on a small square a block down from my street and traffic had been closed off in all directions. A few people had gathered on what was Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND. Issue 13 2009 www.grapevine.is

LÓKAL An International Theatre Festival In Reykjavík

Iceland’s first and only professional theatre festival, Lókal, will take place in Reykjavík on September 3- 6. The festival brings exciting local artists and acts from all over the world to the spotlight, with cutting edge performances and interesting goings-on. gogoyoko presents: MUSIC GRAPEVINE CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE GRAND ROCK 23:45 Gísli Galdur. GrandGrand rokkrokk / FFridayriday SeSeptemberptember4 4 / 22:00 / 11.000000 ISKISK AdmissionAdmis Prescribing with love 30 Kaffi Zimsen music for your live SUN 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 experience ISK. Dubliner Rósenberg 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Svavar Knutur. How to use the listings Kaffi Zimsen Venues are listed alphabetically by 22:00 Movie night. 4 day. Prikið FRI For complete listings and detailed 11:00 VIP Weekend Hangover information on venues visit Cinema, screening Rambo 2! Free Bar 11 www.grapevine.is popcorn. 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri. Reykjavík Jazz Festival Celtic Cross 12:00 Dill Restaurant. Live Jazz at 01:00 Live Music. Dr. Gunni 28 Noon. Cultura FRI 15:00 Nordic House. Piano only! 22:00 House DJs. Iceland’s finest jazz pianists. Dubliner Hellvar B5 21:00 Rósenberg. The Reykjavik 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 DJ Einar. Celtic Cross Big Band vs. Toshiko Akiyoshi Grand Rokk 01:00 Live Music. Big Band, led by Össur Geirsson. 22:00 gogoyoko presents Grape INSOL Cultura 23:00 Múlinn. Bop ’till you drop. vine Grandrokk #9 with Dr. Gunni, 22:00 House DJs. Hellvar, INSOL and Blóð. Dillon Kaffi Zimsen Blóð 22:30 Missing, Bad Carburetor 31 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. and Thingtak. MON English Pub Dubliner 22:00 Live music. 22:30 Live Music. Dubliner Hressó English Pub 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Penta and DJ Bjarni. 22:00 Live Music. Kaffi Hljómalind Jacobsen Hressó 20:00 Audiobook Night. 22:00 Thank God It's Friday with 22:00 Silfur and DJ Maggi. Kaffi Zimsen Gísli Galdur & Sammi Jagúar. Free drink with entry fee. Jacobsen 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. Rósenberg 22:00 TATATAT and Friends. Nordic House 22:00 Guðmundur Nordahl. Kaffibarinn 20:00 The Nordic Verse Family. 23:45 Terrordisco. Prikið Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Chill Night with Introbeats. 5 SAT 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. Reykjavík Jazz Festival Melodica Acoustic Festival 20:00 Djúpið. Jazz Quiz 3 & 4. 18:00 Hemmi & Valdi. Svavar 21:00 Rósenberg. The Reykjavík Knútur, Markús Bjarnason, Emma Bar 11 Ævarsdóttir, Steindór Ingi, Bjarni Þór Big Band. 22:00 DJ Biggi Maus. and Bergþór Smári. Celtic Cross 18:00 Hljómalind. Gísli Kristjáns- 1 01:00 Live Music son, Kjartan Arnald, Stefán Örn, TUE Cultura Sebastian Storgaard, Böðvar Reynis 22:00 House DJs. and Haraldur Davíðsson. Dubliner Dubliner 21:00 Rósenberg. Geir Harðar, Pik- 22:30 Live Music. 22:30 Live Music. kNikk, INSOL, Heiða og Daniel, Ian Reykjavík Jazz Festival English Pub Hooper (USA), Elíza and María & 20.00 Djúpið. Jazz Quiz Finals with 22:00 Live Music. Mama's bag. prizes, Icons of Jazz. NASA Jacobsen 21:00 I HEART RVK dubstep night 21.00 Rósenberg. Passport Check. 22:00 Foremost Poets, Maggi with Skream, Kanio, Equalizers Lego and Óli Ofur. and more. 2 Kaffibarinn Prikið WED 23:45 Sexy Lazer. 22:00 VIP Weekend with house Kaffi Zimsen band and DJ Danni Deluxxxe. Dubliner Reykjavík Jazz Festival 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 16:15 Open house at Efstaleiti 1. 22:30 Live Music. Nordic House Beint Live Jazz on RÚV 1. Kaffi Hljómalind 20:30 S.L.Á.T.U.R. final show of 20:00 Nordic House. The HDV 18:00 Ghetto Yoga. The Nordic Tour. Trio. Kaffibarinn Rósenberg 22:00 Iðnó. Salsaball with Kristin 21:00 Bedroom Community. 22:00 Hrafnarspark. Bergsdóttir, Jussanam Dejah and Rósenberg Sódóma Tómas R Einarsson Band. 22:00 Misery Loves Company. 22:00 Northen Music Night with Sódóma Klive, Kira Kira and guests. 22:00 Böddi Dalton and guests. 3 THU 29 6 SAT Bar 11 SUN 22:00 Kreppa Nights with DJ Óli B5 Dóri and live music. Dubliner 22:00 DJ Funky Fleivur. Cultura 22:30 Live Music. Bar 11 22:00 House DJs. Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri. Dubliner 22:00 Movie night. Celtic Cross 22:30 Live Music. Prikið 01:00 Live Music. English Pub 11:00 Hangover Cinema. Free Cultura 22:00 Live Music. popcorn. 22:00 House DJs. Hressó Rósenberg Dubliner 22:00 Jogvan & Vignir. 22:00 Live music. 22:30 Live Music. Jacobsen English Pub 22:00 Breakbeat.is. 7 22:00 Live Music. Kaffi Hljómalind MON Hressó 17:30 Ghetto Yoga. Dubliner 22:00 Napoleon and DJ Maggi. Kaffibarinn 22:30 Live Music. Jacobsen Kaffi Hljómalind 22:00 Már & Nielsen Party Zone DJ Set. Kaffibarinn Music & Entertainment | Venue finder 23:45 Alfons X. Kaffi Zimsen Amsterdam Dubliner Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. Hafnarstræti 5 | D3 Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 & Valda Melodica Acoustic Festival Apótek English Pub Laugavegur 21 | F5 Experience great cuisine 16:00 Hemmi & Valdi. Heiða Dóra, Austurstræti 16 | E3 Austurstræti 12 | E3 Næsti Bar Tinna Marína, Gummi Frændi, Ian B5 Glaumbar Ingólfstræti 1A | E5 accompanied by a breathtaking view Hooper (USA), Friday Night Idols, Bankastræti 5 | E4 Tryggvagata 20 | D3 Óliver The Cedar (UK), Hjalti Jón, Guðrún Babalú Grand Rokk Laugavegur 20A | F5 …in the tallest building in Iceland Lára Pálmadóttir and Halla Skólavörðustígur 22 | F5 Smiðjustígur | E5 Ölstofan Norðfjörð. Batterí Highlander Vegamótastígur | F5 16:00 Hljómalind. Jonathan Pointier Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D3 Lækjargata 10 | F3 Prikið (FR), Valur Gunnarsson, Sunday Bar 11 Hressó Bankastræti | F5 Parlous (GER), Lydia Grétarsdót Laugavegur 11 | E5 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Rósenberg tir, Fúsaleg Helgi, Áslaug, Mysteri Barbara Hverfisbarinn Klapparstígur 25 | F6 ous Marta, Elín Ey and Múgsefjun. Laugavegur 22 | F6 Hverfisgata 20 | E5 Sódóma Reykjavík 21:00 Rósenberg. Misery Loves Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Company, Skúli Þórðar, Árstíðir, The Bjarni Fel Jacobsen Austurstræti 20 | E4 Austurstræti 9 | E3 Sólon Cedar, Sverrir Norland, HEK and Bankastræti 7A | E4 Lights on the Highway. Boston Kaffi Hljómalind Laugavegur 28b | F6 Laugavegur 23 | F6 Thorvaldsen Prikið Austurstræti 8 | E3 Enjoy weekend brunch 22:00 VIP Weekend with Gísli Café Cultura Kaffi Zimsen Galdur and Benni B-Ruff. Hverfisgata 18 | E5 Hafnarstræti 18 | E4 Vegamót Vegamótastígur 4 | F5 or delicious buffet Reykjavík Jazz Festival Café Paris Kaffibarinn 15:00 Kjarvalsstaðir. Leifur Gun- Austurstræti 14 | E3 Bergstraðastræti 1 | F5 for a quality price narsson Balthazar Karamba 20:00 NASA. Arve Henriksen, Jan Hafnarstræti 1-3| D3 Laugavegur 22 | F6 Bang and Anna Maria Friman. Celtic Cross London/Reykjavík Open everyday from 11 AM - 2 PM 22:00 NASA. Varp and Jagúar. Hverfisgata 26 | E5 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Sódóma Smáratorgi 3 22:00 LEX Games Show with Dr. Dillon NASA next to Smaralind mall 201 Kópavogi Tel. 575 7500 [email protected] www.veisluturninn.is Spock, Sykur and Broðir Svartúlfs. Laugavegur 30 | F6 Þorvaldsenstræti 2| E3 20:00 Audiobook Night. Kaffi Zimsen 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. 4 Rósenberg Sept. 22:00 Blúsfelag Reykjavík. . 8 TUE

Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. Rósenberg 22:00 Mike Pollock and guests. 9 gogoyoko presents Grapevine Grandrokk #9 with WED Dr. Gunni, Hellvar, INSOL and Blóð Dubliner Grand Rokk 22:00PM 22:30 Live Music. Kaffi Hljómalind 1000ISK 18:00 Ghetto Yoga. Kaffibarinn It’s that time again! Yours truly is putting on another show with our good friends 23:45 DJ Benson is fantastic. gogoyoko. This time we’ll be curing the back to school blues with the help of Dr. Rósenberg Gunni, playing us his new album ‘Inniheldur’! Fun! Before we get to see the doctor, 22:00 Live music. we’ll have our vitals taken by Keflavík’s Hellvar, who have just released the ultra- catchy song ‘Falsetto,’ get a sponge-bath from songster INSOL and a nice big dose 10 THU of angst and dissent from Blóð. They will leave you feeling in tip-top shape and amped up for autumn. RL Bar 11 22:00 Kreppa Nights with DJ Óli Dóri and live music. Cultura 22:00 House DJs. 10 Dubliner Sept. 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 22:00 Live Music. Jacobsen 22:00 CoxButter Night. Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 ISK. RóseRósenberg 22:00 Vadim Syodorov Trio. Sódóma 22:00 Lights on the Highway album release show.

Lights on the Highway Album Launch Show Sódóma Possible admission fee After quickly forming in 2003 and a whirlwind rise to success in the following year, Lights on the Highway have just released their sophomore album, Amanita Muscaria, through gogoyoko. The group are having a proper celebration for the occasion, giving everyone a chance to get a gander at the goods and hear their beautiful songs, equal parts lush and twangy, slightly reminiscent of The Band, perfect for a night on a desert road. The addition of keyboardist Stefán Örn Gunnlaugsson has added a delicious layer of icing on the already fantastic cake. You should not leave this show empty handed. RL Deep waters indeed Hafnarborg 28th of August to the 1st of 28 29 Aug. Aug. November Art exhibition.

“In Deep Water”(Lífróður), will debut in Hafnarborg on August the 28th, displaying works by artists who have drawn inspiration from the sea. The aspects the artists have chosen are both the sea as a natural phenomenon and also as way of life. The sea of course plays a huge role in the Icelandic national spirit and has been a shaping force through our history. The show is also a reflection on how our basic livelihood began and still continues to be embedded in our language, thoughts, society and politics. The exhibit will show works from a wide range of artists, inc;uding Ásmundur Ásmundsson, Birgir Andrésson, Ólafur Elíasson, The Icelandic Love Corporation, Sigtryggur Bjarni Baldvinsson, Ragnar Kjartansson Melodica Acoustic Festival 2009 and many many others. The name of the exhibition comes Various locations from an old Icelandic saying that Undercover Music Lovers are once again putting on the Melodica Acoustic Festival. describes going through hard times. A Taking place over the course of two nights at three venues (Rósenberg, Hljómalind saying that has frequently been used and newly added Hemmi & Valdi), this jam-packed festival will have you running in a to describe the hardships the nation is triangle to catch all the amazing crooners and finger-pickers. In addition to the huge enduring right now. selection of local troubadours to hear, the festival will have international darlings Ian The show is currated by Dorothée Hooper from America, The Cedar from the UK, Jonathan Pointier from France and Kirch (who also currated the Icelandic Sunday Parlours from Germany. The whole thing kicks off with Reykjavík’s reigning contribution to the Venice Biennale) and jester, Svavar Knutur, getting you well tuned for the weekend. RL Markús Þór Andrésson. RJH MUSIC 28 AUGUST/ Aug. SEPTEMBER – continued – OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Akureyri Botanical Garden August 28 Akureyri Town Festival Opening Ceremony 8pm Free entrance Akureyri Church Museum I Heart RVK Tel +354 577 60 50 August 29 The Kammer Choir www.sixt.is 6pm and 9pm NASA 22:00PM Free entrance 2500 ISK in advance, 3000 ISK at door Húsið August 29 Nursing a Semi, final The resurgence of dubstep into the mainstream has come hard and strong over show the last year, burning up dance floors all over the UK, America and Reykjavík. Now 7pm one of the biggest crews on the block, ATG (Ahead of The Game) is dropping into Free entrance town. Headlining are the guys everyone is talking about: Skream (recently famed Akureyri Artist Alley for his killer remix of La Roux’s ‘In For The Kill’), Kanio (“The Dirtbag” producer) and August 29 Sickbird, Hundur í breakbeat duo producers The Equalizers. A buttload of world-class acts wanted all Oskilum, Manhattan and Runar Eff over the world right now and they plan to make it get dark and dirty up in there. Wot! and Hvanndalsbrædur GO THERE! RL 8pm Free entrance The country’s largest National Museum of Iceland Akureyri Church August 29 Orkustodin museum of cultural Opening hours: 5 10pm Sept. history featuring a Summer Free entrance permanent exhibition on (May 1st – September 15th) Græni Hatturinn August 29 Inga Eydal and Band Daily 10–17 Iceland’s extraordinary 10pm Winter Free entrance history from settlement (September 16th – April 30th) Strikið to present day. August 29 Kristjan Edelstein Daily except Mondays 11–17 10pm Free entrance Sjallinn August 29 The Bravo Beatles and Comet Suðurgata 41 · 101 Reykjavík · Tel. +354 530-2200 · www.natmus.is Midnight Possible admission fee Keflavík Paddy's August 29 The G-Strings S.L.Á.T.U.R Final Show of Nordic Tour Midnight Nordic House 20:30PM Free entrance September 3 Trúbatrix Possible admission fee 10pm After a weeklong trip through the Scandinavian mainland, the sonically challenging Free entrance collective S.L.Á.T.U.R. is wrapping up its Nordic Tour with a much deserved September 5 Green Bug homecoming show. Over the course of the week, these self-described “artistically Midnight obtrusive” composers have performed eight new pieces of music composed Free entrance especially for this tour on a wide variety of instruments, from the homemade to the traditional, high technology to historical. They will now wrap up this great endeavor playing original pieces by the collective’s members, as well as pieces by Davíð Brynjar Franzson, Hlynur Aðils Vilmarsson and Þráinn Hjálmarsson, for a truly memorable and subversive artistic experience. RL Art | Venue finder

101 Gallery Gallery Ágúst Tue–Sun 11–17 Hverfisgata 18A | F6 Baldursgata 12 | F9 www.listasafn.is Thu–Sat 14–17 and by appoint- Wed–Sat 12–17 The National ment www.galleriagust.is Museum Suðurgata 41 | C9 www.101hotel. Gallery Fold Open daily 10–17 is/101hotel/101gallery/ Rauðarástígur 14-16 | J9 natmus.is/ Artótek Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Tryggvagata 15 | D5 Sun 14–16 The Nordic House Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri www.myndlist.is Sturlugata 5 | C11 Tue–Sun 12–17 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Gallery Kling & Bang www.nordice.is/ www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ Hverfisgata 42 | G7 Artotek Thurs–Sun from 14–18 The Numismatic Museum ASÍ Art Museum this.is/klingogbang/ Einholt 4 | K9 Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. Freyugata 41 | G10 Gallery Turpentine Tue–Sun 13–17 Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 Reykjavík 871+/-2 Árbæjarsafn Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat 11–16 Aðalstræti 17 | D6 VÍKIN MUSEUM CAFÉ Kistuhylur 4 www.turpentine.is Open daily 10–17 The Culture House Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Reykjavík Art Gallery Traditional Icelandic delicacies! Hverfisgata 15 | F6 Gerðuberg 3-5 Skúlagata 28 | H6 Open daily 11–17 Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 www.thjodmenning.is Thu–Fri 11–17 / Sat–Sun 13–16 Reykjavík Art Museum Grapevine events Dwarf Gallery www.gerduberg.is Open daily 10–16 OPENING HOURS: Grundarstígur 21 | H8 Hitt Húsið www.listasafnreykjavikur.is September Opening Hours: Fri and Sat – Gallery Tukt Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- Summer (June 1st – September 14th) 18–20 Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E6 ture Museum Sigtún www.this.is/birta www.hitthusid.is Hafnarhús Daily from 11am to 5pm 4 Tryggvagata 17 | E5 Grand Rokk The Einar Jónsson Museum i8 Gallery Kjarvalsstaðir 10 pm Eiriksgata | G9 Klapparstígur 33 | G7 Winter (September 15th – May 31st) Flókagata | K11 Tuesdays – Sundays from 1pm to 5pm gogoyoko presents: Grapevine Grand Tue–Sun 14–17 Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and Rock www.skulptur.is by appointment. www.i8.is Reykjavík City Theatre PORT hönnun hönnun PORT Listabraut 3 Dr. Gunni Fótógrafí Living Art Museum Skólavörðustígur 4a | F7 Vatnsstígur 3 – G7 Reykjavík Maritime Museum Hellvar www.fotografi.is Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu Grandagarður 8 | C3 INSOL Gallery 100° 13–22. www.nylo.is Reykjavík Museum of Pho- Blóð Bæjarháls 1 Lost Horse Gallery tography 1000ISK Admission www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ Skólastræti 1 | F6 Tryggvagata 16 | D5 Open weekdays from Weekends from 13–19 and by Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun VÍKIN 08:30–16:00 appointment on weekdays. 13–17 18 Hemmi og Valdi www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavi- Gallery Auga fyrir Auga Hafnarborg kur.is MUSEUM BY THE SEA 9 pm Hverfisgata 35 | G7 Strandgötu 34, Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum gogoyoko presents: Grapevine Gallery StartArt Hafnarfjörður MARITIME MUSEUM | GRANDAGARÐI 8 | REYKJAVÍK Laugarnestangi 70 WWW.SJOMINJASFN.IS Grassroots #8 Laugavegur 12B | G7 The National Gallery of TBA Tue–Sat 1–17 Iceland FREE CONCERT www.startart.is Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

works. Cocktail pleasures and Living Art Museum Visual stimulation Ongoing - Exhibitions from Runo Lagomarsino, Yiva Westerlund and Olivia Plender. How to use the listings National Gallery of Iceland Venues are listed alphabetically by day. Hidden Treasure: Treasures In For complete listings and detailed Public Possession? information on venues visit Works from the three Icelandic state- www.grapevine.is owned banks' collections, along with some works from the National Gallery. The National Museum Permanent exhibition: The Making of a Nation OPENING Heritage and History in Iceland is intended to provide insight into the AUGUST/SEPTEMBER history of the Icelandic nation from the Life isn't Settlement to the present day. 29 5pm Jan 31 - Nov 30. ASÍ Art Museum Encounters. Directions and Non-Directions Archaeological excavations at many Valgerður Hauksdóttir exhibits new locations around Iceland have been just a game drawnigs and graphics. Artist talk funded by Kristnihátíðarsjóður (the Sunday September 13th at 15:00. Millennium Fund). Finds from some of Reykjavík International Ongoing until September 20th. these excavations are on display in an exhibition suitable for the whole family. Literary Festival − it's also a bed of roses... 2 8pm The Nordic House Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Current exhibitions: Here at the Grapevine we often promote Arts and crafts at Café Gerðuberg July 25- August 30 some music event or another that we’re 16.May - 29. August 2009 Knitting on the internet: Ragnheiður The Ocean, looking forward to and in states pure, Eiríksdóttir takes guests to the world Features exhibitions from photogra- unbridled excitement we have been phers Bjarne Riesto, Helga Cl Theil- of knitting. known to use such terms as “expect shit gaard and Kaare Espolin Johnson. September 6 - 12 to get royally ripped up” and to liberally 3 5pm The Reykjavík International Liter- reference bodily fluids and explosions Reykjavík Art Museum ary Festival 2009 thereof. Despite what such examples Hafnarhús The bi-annual festival is one of the ma- or our word craft may imply, we are a Erró - Japanese Love Letters jor literary events in Iceland and has (1979-1980) highly intellectual and literate bunch been attended by many of the world's The series Japanese Love Letters is not at this here publication and we are best known authors. typical of Erró’s art. seriously excited about the forthcoming The Numismatic Museum Reykjavík International Literary Festival Permanent exhibition: that will be going down at Iðnó and the The Central Bank of Iceland and the ONGOING National Museum of Iceland jointly Nordic House from September 6th to operate a numismatic collection con- 12th. Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor ·101 Reykjavík · sisting of Icelandic notes and coins. This year marks the ninth The Culture House Tel: 411 6390 · www.photomuseum.is Permanent exhibitions: Ráðhús Reykjavíkur instalment of the bi-annual event that Medieval Manuscripts Dulin Himintungl has, in twenty-four years, become Opening hours 12 -19 Mondays - Fridays Kim Linnet exhibits her 360° panorama March 28- Jan 10 2010 the most popular festival of its kind 13-17 Weekends · ADMISSION FREE ICELAND::FILM photos of Iceland. in Iceland and well respected among This exhibition traces for the first time Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 literary happenings in Europe. The Permanent exhibition: the development of Icelandic filmmak- prestige of the Reykjavík International The Settlement Exhibition ing from its origins around 1904 to the Literary Festival has drawn such noted year 2008. Reykjavík Art Museum wordsmiths as Haruki Murakami – a The Library Room. Asmundarsafn Current exhibitions: May 2- April 30 2010 favourite in the Grapevine offices – August 12 - ongoing Rhyme - Works by Ásmundur Gunter Grass, Isabel Allende, Jose National Archives of Iceland - 90 Sveinsson and contemporary art- Saramago, A. S. Byatt, Kurt Vonnegut, years in the museum building. ists Fay Weldon, and Paul Auster in previous Commemorating the 100th anniversary This exhibition showcases contempo- years. Joining the ranks this year are of the Culture House. rary artists that tackle similar issues ten Icelandic authors; 16 international as Ásmundur did in his time, but in the Sheepskin, Saffian and Shirting authors from the United States, Puerto context of a new age. It shows the tools and equipment used Rico, Kenya, Finland, Norway, Lithuania, in book binding. Reykjavík Art Museum the Dominican Republic, Germany, Exhibition Series: Hafnarhús Paintings by Hulda Viljálmsdóttir. May 28- August 29 2010 India, Iran and the Faeroe Islands; and The Einar Jónsson Museum Erró- Portrett- nine Griffin poets, including this years Permanent exhibition: The work of A dedication to Erró. prize winners Albert Frank Moritz and sculptor Einar Jónsson. Sept. 3 - Oct. 18 Carolyn D. Wright. Gallery Agust Children of Nature vs. Antichrists. The festival program features SHARP Consisting of twelve large paintings daily readings by the authors at Iðnó of selected frames from films by Lars Artist Andrea Maack introduces her from commencement until the 11th, von Trier and Friðrik Thor Friðriksson, third perfume, Sharp, in an exhibition and panel discussions and interviews that explores aspects of the fashion and a multi-media installation by Ari at the Nordic House on the 7th, 8th industry while still connecting to the Alexander Ergis Magnússon. art world. Sept. 3 - Oct. 18 and 9th. A concert titled “The Music Gerðarsafn Art Museum D 13 Ingibjörg Birgisdóttir of Language” will be performed at the ... and live football (Kópavogur) The D project is a series of exhibitions Iðnó Theatre September 11th following June 27 - Aug 31 at Hafnarhus, drawing its name from the day’s readings. Finally, the festival The Kópavogur Art Museum Sum- one of the museum’s galleries. For will be wrapped September 12th with a the ongoing series, the Reykjavik Art on big screen. mer Exhibition Publishers Symposium examining the Museum commissions new work by Gerðuberg Cultural Centre future of Icelandic publications and the promising artists who have not had August 20th – October 18th state of literature in the age of e-books, Headlines... prior private exhibitions in Iceland's among other things, and the Griffin Caricatures by Halldór Baldursson major museums. 2007-2009 Reykjavík Art Museum Poetry Prize event at the Nordic house August 20th – October 11th Kjarvalsstaðir that afternoon, at which prize founder Stories without words May 15- August 30 Scott Griffin will address the crowd and Ólöf Erla Einarsdóttir exhibits photo- The House of Una And West 8th prize winners will present their works. manipulated pictures Street The weeklong event is a rare Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum The life of Icelandic artists Louisa chance to experience modern literature Matthiasdóttir and Nína Tryggvadóttir Gljúfrasteinn was the home and from the mouths of its creators and and their connection with artists from workplace of Halldór Laxness (winner perhaps acquaint yourself with pieces of the Nobel Prize for Literature in Iceland and New York. that you would otherwise not encounter. 1955) and his family for more than half May 09- August 30 Opening hours: a century. It has now been opened to Kjarval and Animals It promises to be an enriching the public as a museum, unchanged An exhibition focusing on Kjarval's experience. For more information on the 11 am 1 am from when Laxness lived there. depictions of animals. Reykjavík International Literary Festival Sunday to Thursday at to Iðnó May 15- August 30 check out www.bokmenntahatid.is. CF Weekends at 11 am to 3 am September 6 - 12 Icelandic design, furniture, architec- The Reykjavík International Liter- ture and product design. ary Festival 2009 August 16- September 1 The bi-annual festival is one of the ma- The Reykjavík Jazz Festival jor literary events in Iceland and has presents Ode To Jazz! An exhibition been attended by many of the world's featuring jazz in Icelandic art. best known authors. Reykjavík Maritime Museum Kling & Bang Gallery Current Exhibitions: Living Museum by the Sea; Arterial Object d´Art for Country and City; From Poverty to Artist Kolbeinn Hugi Höskuldsson Abundance; The Shark – Light and Life exhibits his works. Energy; Hidden Craftsman. Listasal Mosfellsbæjar (Mosfells- The Reykjavík Museum of Photog- bær) raphy Spjöld Current Exhibitions: Artist Kristín Jónsdóttir exhibits her May 16 - Aug 30 12 3The 4 5 Old Harbour Old Depart for whale and puffin watching tours from the old Harbour MMAPMAPAP harbour, a lively area, offering an assortment of restaurants M and activity centres Places We Like A ÝR AR GA 1 Kaffi Hljómalind TA NÝL 15 Laugavegi 23 ENDUG Old 11 Harbourr ATA The only true activist-friendly, Area community servicing co-op in town, Kaffi Hljómalind lends a breath of ÁN VESTU fresh air and a welcome alternative AR Future GATA GE to Reykjavík’s beer-stained, decadent B RG IR Concert ATA SGATA cafés. Offering up a fare of vegetarian- U Hall GATA 9 to vegan friendly courses, some pretty A Reykjavík good coffee and an awesome selection Art SGAT of tea. As well as a free, anarchist GAT I Museum library. What else do you need? SKK A ÆGI Main TRYGGVAGATATR10 Tourist 2 Á Næstu Grösum Info Down Laugavegi 20b D Ta xi 6 Town GARÐASTRÆT HAFNARH Á Næstu Grösum is an all vegetarian I TÚNGATA ÆT AUSTUR STRÆTI restaurant right in the city centre that STRÆTI The features a friendly atmosphere and Austur Culture I National fair prices. There is always at least AÐALSTR völlur House Park ÆT 17 Theatre one vegan soup on offer and the daily KIRK 5 special portions are big and always JUSTR BANA Æ HVERFI TI 13 KASTRÆTI 8 satisfying. There is even some organic Icelandic 12 ÓSTH.STR TR S P ÆTÆ 7 G wine on offer. HSM E Parliament TI ATA TI LAGATA I RÆ 3 Babalú LÆKJARGATA T ÆT S R 2 Skólavörðustíg 22 TS Lau ST TI RGATA OL veg City FS XXXHMBFUBOJT Located on the second-floor Hall Ta xi of a quirky little building on ÐU LaugavegurÓL 1 SU NARGATA ÞINGH NG Skólavörðustígur, Babalú is an inviting, INGÓLReykjavík’s mARSTRÆARSTRain shopping SK quaint and cosy café serving up AR and culture street, featuring TJ Ó a selection of tea, coffee and hot F a wide range of bars, bistros,LA V chocolate along with delicious baked cafes and restaurants. ÖR VEGUR BERGSTAÐ A ÐUSTÍGU goods and light meals. Food and City UVEGUR -BVHBWFHJt5FM USTÍG drink aside, Babalú boasts colourfully Pond KJ GATA TÍG R 3 Good price S

decorated and super-comfortable LAUFÁS ÍKI R surroundings and a genuinely friendly ÞÓRSGATA Cd´s, and FR Gift´s and likeable staff. CF National ÓÐIN Gallery Swiss Mocca of Iceland CafféC latte 4 Ban Thai G Laugarvegur 130 CappuchinoCap Even though the service at Ban Thai EspressoE p may get a little flaky, the food is always BALDURSGATA

to die for and the place also offers a SÓLEYJARGATA very pleasant dining atmosphere that AGATA AG puts you right in a comfortable Thai BR Th ChoccolateCh l t sorta mood. It’s really Reykjavík’s only NJARÐARGATA H Jó breadread “fancy” Thai restaurant. Ban Thai has M Wrap remained a true Reykjavík treasure for PPiiPaninianini University the longest time, and is truly one that of Iceland should be celebrated. HSM Hljómskáli BERGSTAÐ Park 5 Kaffitár University HRINGBRAUT of Iceland ARSTRÆTI Bankastræti 8 Park L AU Kaffitár on Bankastræti is a I FÁSVEGUR comfortable little café with a great selection of coffee, tea and baked goods on offer. Since Kaffitár is also a big-name Icelandic roasterie the caffeinated beverages on the menu Nordic House are quality. The wi-fi makes this a nice Culture Center place to sit and chill with your laptop VA WDVWHWKH as well. CF 7 Deli 8 Kisan 9 Café Haiti 6 Jacobsen Bankastræti 14 Laugavegur 7 Tryggvagötu 16 'LIIHUHQFH Austurstræti 9 Getting a good slice of pizza on the This store is incredibly cool. It’s The first time I entered this exotic little A fairly new venue in town, Jacobsen is go can be an utter ordeal. If you’re stocked with really unique and quirky joint, meaning to buy myself a take- owned by some nouveau riche Swedes, not careful, you’ll frequently wind up clothes, outerwear, accessories and away espresso, I ended up with two and has been providing a non-stop paying good money for a cardboardy handbags, plus they have an adorable kilos of fresh and roasted coffee beans party over the last few months. Besides wafer that has been sitting in a heater section of kids clothes, kitschy vintage due to some language complications its importing foreign big-shot DJs box for a week. Not at Deli, however. toys and books and even interior and way too much politeness. Since and other niceties, it is probably most Their slices are consistently awesome design items. Wicked place; definitely then I have enjoyed probably way-too- appreciated for its loooong hours; it and fresh, the topping selection is worth a visit. CF many wonderful cups of Haitian coffee, doesn’t matter if you stop partying at intriguing and tasteful and, best of all, but they’re always as nice, so the two 2AM or way-too-much AM, Jacobsen they’re really cheap. HSM kilos were definitely worth it. SKK is always forking out shots and /<67,1 cocktails. SKK 5HVWDXWDQW /DXJDYHJXU ZZZO\VWLQLV 7HO ZZZO\VWLQLV

/LYH0XVLF(YHU\1LJKWÃ/LYH6RFFHU ,FHODQGLF%HHURQ'UDIWDQG%RWWOHV $QGRXU,QIDPRXV:KHHO2I)RUWXQH 67 8 9 10 13 Kornið Lækjargötu 4 How about filling your face with cakes at the delightful Kornið. They taste so good, you would gladly push your own mother over for even the slightest of sniffs. Not a sweet tooth? Well, try their delectable sandwiches then, I recommend the egg and bacon ciabatta! At only 590ISK plus all the Pítu Sósa you could dream of, what more could you ask for on your lunch break? JB

14 Karamba Laugavegi 22 New hotspot in town Karamba is a colourful and eclectic bar on Laugavegur with a comfortable atmosphere, typically great music and a chill crowd. This is a good place to relax or to do some serious drinking or to relax. Plus, their decors are done strictly by Grapevine-friendly artists, S SÆBRAUT KÚLAGATA such as Lóa (who does our comics), Hugleikur Dagsson (who illustrates the monster column) and Bobby Breiðholt (who’s done a lot of nice illustrations LINDARGATA for us); they are truly a sight to behold. ÍGUR Skyline T CF

15 Sushismiðjan PPARS UR LA Geirsgötu 3 K 1 ugaga STÍG This is a seriously great place to NS ggu14urur 18 grab a quick and quality sushi lunch. 16 VAT Pre-prepared boxes of maki and nigiri Up are reasonable priced and really well made, amply filled with deliciously Town HVERFISG fresh ingredients. The indoor seating R ATA area is limited to some stools and outward-facing wall-mounted ÍGU LAUGA ORIGINAL INDIAN & PAKISTANItabletops TASTEbut there are a couple of GR VEGUR SKÚLAGATA ETTISGATA tables and chairs set up outside the front door for those wanting to watch R Hlemmur FRAKKAST the ships and tourists in the harbour UT Bus STÍGUR while they eat. CF RA Terminal STÍGUR B VITA S 4 NJÁLSG 16 Barbara ATA NORRA Laugavegi 22 BARÓN S Ta xi Hallgríms BE kirkja RGÞÓRUG At Laugavegur 22, above Karamba, Church ATA Barbara serves up a lively atmosphere INDGUR IAN - PAKISTANI CBRUIASINEfor Reykjavík’s gay community and TÍ anybody else who just wants to dance he Einar RS and have a good time. The first level is ónsson made for dancing and is often packed useum Sundhöllin with sweaty bodies, while the second Swimming S K level of the bar offers a place to sit, Pool RAUÐARÁ IPHOL drink and chat and another in which to SSTÍGUR T smoke. CF EIR BARÓN ÍKSGATA East 17 OSUSHI UT Lækjargötu 2a RA Side B Great place to satisfy your craving for raw fish and vinegar rice. The selection RSBRAUT HÁTE NORRA IGSVEGUR on ‘the train’ is wide and varied and S NA the atmosphere is relaxed. Also, the colour-coded plates make it easy GUN Miklatún ÍGUR Park to keep tabs on your budget while FL scarfing down your maki and nigiri. CF RST ÓKAG Á

18 Segurmo 10 Sódóma Reykjavík 11 Sægreifinn 12 Prikið Laugavegur 28b Tryggvagötu 22 Verbúð 8, Geirsgata Bankastræti 12 Newly opened Sódóma on Tryggvagötu Down by the Reykjavík harbour, Prikið is one of those places that This place was something we all is already a hit with party crowds and Sægreifinn fish shop and restaurant shape-shifts. It’s a warm café with needed, a cheap and scrumptious gig-goers alike. An extensive venue, is truly a unique establishment. The photographs of their senior frequenters bistro, right inside one of our filled with reasonably priced beverages menu features various fish dishes on weekday mornings, a hung-over favourite bars: Boston. The cuisine and reasonably good looking people. (including most of the “crazy Icelandic hangout on weekend afternoons, and really is Icelandic, because of their Some of Iceland’s finest musical food” you’ll want to tell your friends during nights it’s filled to the brim cornerstones: the meat soup and the ventures have played in recent months, you had) and a rich portion of the best with what remains of Iceland’s hip fish stew, but the rest varies between and their schedule looks promising lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. Good hop scene. Go there in daytime for the weeks, so their menu could even pass too. Also, make sure to visit their men’s food and welcoming service make this cheap burgers; enter at night for some as international. So, if you don’t like room for a glance at the “Pissoir of place a must-try. HSM OTT hip-hop debauchery, old skool the current meat dish, you might in a Absolution”. JB and the latest bangers alike. SKK week. SKK

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– continued –

Life is not just a game- it's a bed of roses... Show curated by Gudmunður Oddur Magnússon and Guðfinna Mjöll Mag- núsdóttir. Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum Permanent Exhibition: The Shape of Line. A new retrospective of works by Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition focuses on abstract works from 1945 onwards. May 01- April 30 2010 Whale Watching RHYTHM- Ásmundur and Our Age This exhibition showcases contempo- The Armoury Opens! and Puffin Island rary artists that tackle similar issues as Ásmundur did in his time, but in a Hólmaslóð 4 Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable trip into the context of a new age. JULY 29 world of whales and sea birds. Conveniently located in Reykjavíks Old Harbour, a three hour tour can bring you up close to the whales Since Sruli Recht arrived here in Iceland in their natural habitat. he’s been up to a string of miscellaneous deeds, and now he’s launching the next Free entry to the Whale Watching Centre for our passengers. OUTSIDE in line. This most recent project is a co- production with artist Megan Herbert. REYKJAVÍK Together they’ve created The Armoury, a peculiar shop boasting Sruli’s arsenal collection as well as the illustrated topo- Viðey Island Hafnarfjörður graphic narratives of Megan. Check out the shop, lost amongst the retrofitted Nature, History and Art Hafnarborg once-rusting ships and abandoned Aug. 29 - Nov. 1 fisheries of Reykjavik’s Fishpacking In Deep Water Viðey Island is a unique site that combines history, culture District – but if you bring your children and nature, and is only a few minutes from the city by boat. The sea and the self-consciousness of a nation in Icelandic contemporary art. remember that the Armoury is a place of This exhibition displays works by art- both sharp and delicate objects. SKK Ferry scheduled with 9 daily departures. ists that have used the sea as an inspiration both as a natural phenomenon Viðeyjarstofa Café is open from 11:30 to 17:00 and way of life; the sea both takes and gives life.

Borgarnes

Tour Operator Environmental Award Icelandic Tourist Board The Icelandic Settlement Centre

Permanent exhbitions: The Settlement of Iceland; The Saga of Make sure it’s Elding! Egill Skalla-Grímsson. Current theatre productions: Brák – a monolouge by Brynhildur Elding Reykjavík Whale Watching Guððjónsdóttir Tel: (+354) 555 3565 Mr. Skallagrímsson – a monologue by Online booking: www.elding.is or visit www.elding.is Benedikt Erlingsson Art from the blind Storms and Wars – a monolouge by Einar Kárason On Saturday the 29th a new exhibit will premiere at the National Museum Stykkishólmur of Iceland, showing art created by blind and visually impaired children Library of Water that recently finished a seminar at the Permanent Exhibition: Roni Horn installation. The artist has Reykjavík School of Visual Arts. Iceland is a dish best served cold replaced stacks of books with glass The goal of the seminar was to make colums containing water gathered a catalog of diverse works and set up from Iceland’s glaciers and glacial an exhibit using unexpected materials. rivers. The kids used everything from ropes, threads, chords and plaster to colours, Akureyri paper and elastichords. The seminar’s alternate goal was make references to Akureyri Art Museum modern art and thus encourage and August 29 - October 18 The Selection. Icelandic photography strengthen the abilites of each and from 1866 to 2009. every student. The exhibit is located on the “square” Café Karólína of the National Museum, which is right August 1 – September 4 next to the coffee shop. RJH 551 1166 - www.bogf.is Icelandic Geography. An exhibition of works by Þórgunnur Oddsdóttir.

DaLí Gallery August 28 - 29 Edda Þórey Kristfinnsdóttir, Steinn Kristjánsson and DaLíurnar exhibit works as part of the Akureyri Town Festival.

GalleríBOX Don’t let the rough August 29 - September 20 Erró – Japanese Love Letters Container: an exhibit showing the new works of Finnish artists Kalle (1979-1980) Mustonen, Atte Uotila, Antti-Ville Reykjavík Art Museum, exterior fool you! Reinikainen and Petri Eskelinen. Hafnarhús Kunstraum Wohnraum July 5 – Sept 20 September 3 – January 3 Exhbition by Guðrún Vera Hjartardóttir Scheduled Busses 2010 Linienbusse Seyðisfjörður In the early 1970s, Icelandic artist Erró Linjebussar Skaftfell embarked on extensive world travels, June 21 – August 31 bringing him, among other places, to Bus régulier Exhbition by Kristján Steingrímur Japan. There, in a second-hand book Jónson store, he was captivated by an illustrated Áætlunarbílar book and a series of old photographs and facsimiles related to the people and subjects in the book. After persuading the shop owner to let him photocopy the material, Erró returned to Paris and began to work, collaging the foreign printed raw material with the paintings Our busses are warm he created. Using mainly shades of grey and variations of brown, this muted but startling display is a far cry from the Erró on the inside! that most are familiar with. The exhibit is running for four months, so there is no reason to miss it. RL Listasafn Reykjavíkur Reykjavik Art Museum

LÓKAL – An International Theatre Festival In Reykjavík Iceland’s first and only professional theatre festival, Lókal, will take place in Reykjavík for the second time at the start of September (note: the Act Alone festival in Ísafjörður, while being an international theatre fest, only caters to monologues). The festival brings Icelandic artists to the stage with cutting edge performances, as well as acts from all over the world. The Nature Theatre of Oklahoma, New York City players and Vivarium Studios will be taking the atage at the festival, to name a few. There are many other interesting theatre companies participating. Last year’s theme was to present the most interesting things happening in the theatres of Europe and the US. This time around, the festival will focus on local performers who have been pushing the limits of the theatre lately, taking it to unknown frontiers. Revisited Off Target (Utan Gátta), by local playwright Sigurður Pálsson, is one of festival’s highlights. Dealing with the human condition and the apparent addiction we all have to drama, unhappiness and pain, the show won several Icelandic prizes at the Icelandic Theatre Awards in 2009, including best play and best Frames production. Off Target has been showing since 2008 at the National Theatre and will raise its curtain on September 4th for Lókal. Several amateur acts and underground theatre companies will also take part Hafnarhús Diverse programs will be Free admission in the festivities. The Professional Amateurs, for example, are a group of artists September 3 – October 18 running througout the that have taken an interest in pushing the boundaries of theatre, making it a Paintings of selected frames from the film directors Lars exhibition period. Hafnarhús reflective medium for both audience and performers to enjoy. They will be staging von Trier and Friðrik Thor Friðriksson and a multi-media See www.artmuseum.is Tryggvagata, daily 10–17 three plays at this year's Lókal; An Eternal Piece on War and Peace, An Eternal installation by film director Ari Alexander. Thursdays 10-22 Piece on the Art of Manipulation and An Eternal Piece on Relativity. Their vision is to make the act an open dialogue between the performers and the audience. Although the theme of this year’s festival is the local scene, some foreign artists will also grace us with their presence. On the fifth and sixth, Pat Kinevane’s show Forgotten will be performed at Batteríið. This performance is an 80-minute [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201 collage of dance and Irish storytelling, and is performed by the Irish theatre company Fishamble. Fishamble has been going strong for 20 years, and this act has become an international hit as they have toured through the UK, Ireland, France and the US. This festival is a sure hit for all those who appreciate the art of theatre and the evolution of its form, with performances of the highest calibre and richly innovative acts on offer for everyone. The festival will show pieces at several theatres situated around Reykjavík. It will start on Thursday the 3rd of September and run until the 6th. For more information, visit www.lokal.is. RJH Outside Reykjavik | Venue finder

Keflavík Stykkishólmur Egilsstaðir Suðsuðvestur Vatnasafnið / Library of Water Sláturhúsið www.sudsudvestur.is Hafnargata 22 Akureyri Seyðisfjörður 230 Reykjanesbær Akureyri Art Museum Skaftfell 421-2225 www.listasafn.akureyri.is www.skaftfell.is Kaupvangsstræti 12 Austurvegur 42 Hafnarfjörður 600 Akureyri 710 Seyðisfjörður Hafnarborg 461 2610 472-1632 www.hafnarborg.is Strandgata 34 Populus Tremula Hveragerði 220 Hafnarfjörður poptrem.blogspot.com/ LÁ Art 585-5790 Kaupvangsstræti 12 www.listasafnarnesinga.is 600 Akureyri Austurmörk 21 Borgarnes 210 Hveragerði The Icelandic Settlement Centre Kunstraum Wohnraum 483-1727 www.landnam.is Ásabyggð 2 Brákarbraut 13-15 600 Akureyri 310 Borgarnes 437-1600 Mývatn Mývatnsstofa

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200 kr. Hearty Affair 5 kr. 27 375 kr. fight their way through pizza boxes, spiced hummus and bright orange Kryddlegin Hjörtu rubbish and other random stuff flying garlic butter. Skúlagata 17 through the air. The soup bar had two meat and r. r. At dinnertime the restaurant two vegetarian choices. My friend found 300 k 400 k What we think: Healthier stuffing is almost full with hungry tourists the mushroom soup on the thin side for low cost enjoying wide views of the storming and scarce in mushrooms but good in PICK YOUR Flavour: Hearty, fresh sea, Mt Esja and the highway. taste, while the organic-red pepper soup The menu is a simple, modestly was a hit. I tried the peanut-chicken Ambiance: Highway-feng shui FAVORITE PLATE priced vegetarian-omnivore affair. soup, which made for good, hearty fare. Service: friendly Unlimited soup and salad for 1450 ISK, While my vegetarian companion add another 1000 ISK and you get the occupied herself with soups and salads, catch of the day thrown in too. I got stuck into the daily catch. The cod Unusual for a ‘stuff yourself to the was covered in fresh coriander and the gills’ kind of place, Kryddlegin Hjörtu bed of couscous and green beans—with Opened almost exactly a year ago, emphasises the quality of ingredients, a the aid of more butter than I care to restaurant Kryddlegin Hjörtu (Spicy good proportion of which are organic. think of—melted in the mouth. Hearts) is currently busy preparing for The highlight of the otherwise For dessert, my friend downed a its first birthday party. basic, fresh salad bar was a green apple heart-shaped cupcake with chocolate Inside, decoration is heavy on and grated ginger salad. Deliciously centre that looked too healthy but tasted Feng shui, with crystals, mirrors and sour, I shall be stealing the idea for acceptably sinful. Lækjargötu 2a. / Borgartúni 29. tel. 561 0562 running waterfalls – a valiant attempt to home. For dressing we opted for the - SARI PELTONEN disguise the drab grey office building. house drizzles—the basil was good, Outside, it is less serene: on a the coriander not so much. Also on supremely windy day we watch people offer was home-baked bread with overly Food & Drink | Venue finder

1 YGGDRASILL Much like its eponymous mythological counterpart, organic shop Yggdrasill stocks most of what one needs in life. Everything is organic, including Bio-Bú butter, yogurt and skyr and fresh bread from Brauðhúsið. If you’re on a budget, check their reduced shelves. Skólavörðustigur 16

2 ECSTASY’S HEART GARDEN A health food shop supplying harder-to find items on vegetarian, vegan and raw- Vegetarian Volvo diet shopping lists. The small family run Garðurinn lunch restaurant next door has Á næstu Grösum was the first and on our visit the majority of dishes healthy lunches and impressive cakes on vegetarian restaurant in town. It is qualified. offer. now well into its second decade One can either pick a single Klapparstígur 37 and has a loyal following and a bold dish or sample up to five from the branding strategy: on their street sign, canteen-counter. Both my vegetarian 3 BÓNUS Bill Clinton himself claims that this is dinner companion and I went for The almighty Bónus is good for the basics the best restaurant in the entire world. the four-dish plate (1.890 ISK for a at cut-price, including tofu for a bargain And here I always thought he was mountainous portion) including rice, 229 ISK. Bónus also stocks the Himnesk more of a pylsa-guy. dressing, particularly tasty lettuce and organic range from local health guru Solla. The dining room is located on the home-baked bread with cinnamon Multiple locations 2nd floor just off the main street. It has date-chutney. a lunch café look with bright orange On my friend’s recommendation 4 MAÐUR LIFANDI I went for lasagna with tomato The organic market on Borgartún has a Á næstu Grösum dressing—a good call on her count. great selection including fresh fruit and The accompanying green barley Laugarvegur 20b veg. There is also a lunch restaurant with salad with red onion and herbs was dish and soup of the day. What we think: It’s like a Volvo—a also very good, but portions of the Borgartún 24 dependable classic that gets you day—noodles and the chickpea carrot there safelyv casserole—proved less exciting. 5 FRU LAUGA Guacamole sauce had too much Flavour: Vegan and vegetarian A rare treat on the island—a farmers lemon and none of the sumptuous market stocking products of the season. Ambiance: School lunch richness of avocado. Located in Laugardalur, open Wednesdays My friend was happy with the through Saturdays. Doors are open Service: Fast, friendly and lasagna, agreed on the boredom of 12–6pm, but go early—the store gets busy refreshingly aware of what the the noodles and liked her filled red and the goods go quickly. For information portions consisted of pepper. on new batches, check them on Facebook. Most interesting was the dessert, Laugalækur 6 a delicious slice of barley cake (650 ISK) that we “shared” (i.e. I ate, she 6 JURTAAPÓTEK watched). The crust of whole-wheat A herbal pharmacy with a huge selection walls and a canteen service desk. crackers was an inch too hard, but the of all kinds of natural remedies. A great At 5pm I was alone, but as the filling of barley-apple-coconut milk place to pick up Icelandic herbs such as dinner hours unfolded the place filled mix topped with fruit jam was light and angelica, yarrow and Icelandic moss—or up steadily. sweet with a curious texture. the topical hit-product Mímir, which at The menu includes a lunch “I’ve had better cakes, but I have 2.140 ISK could help to counter even the soup—different each day of the week— had a lot worse too” said my friend. swiniest of flu. and a couple of daily specials. There Once again, she was right on the Laugarvegur 2 is always at least one vegan option money. - SARI PELTONEN 7 GRÆNN KOSTUR GRAPEVINE FOOD REVIEW KEY method: When the bill arrives, the reviewer presents a written statement, previously A vegetarian canteen-restaurant hidden signed by the restaurant management, away in the backyard of Skólavörðustigur. 0 God-awful allowing the reviewer and one companion a 1 Awful Raw cakes and hearty portions of lasagne meal on the house for review purposes. 2 Passable. Much room for improvement on Mondays. Using this approach, we aim to best 3 Good, but not great. Skólavörðustigur 8b preserve the reviewer’s objectivity (and the 4 Really rather good restaurants’ consistency), within the humble 5 Extraordinary means of a free newspaper. 8 GLÓ The Grapevine does not favour foie gras Organic restaurant, a collaboration with The food is rated in three categories: over fast food. Restaurants are reviewed Fast food: Pizza, pylsa and kebab, food on the Rope Yoga studio at Laugardalur, for what they are; both burger and beluga offering daily dishes, soups and salads as the go (0-2000 ISK) can be extraordinary in their own right. VEGETARIAN CUISINE Mid-range: Everyday eateries, sit-in. (mains In all evaluations, the food is key: Does it well as a juice bar. 2000-4000 ISK) taste good? Is it properly prepared? Are Engjateigur 19 Skólavörðustígur 8 b, tel. 552 2028 Fine dining: Fancy, expensive-type food. the ingredients fresh and of high quality? (3-course dinners 6000 and up) Secondary considerations include setting, For full restaurant and food listings Open from 11:30 am–21:00 pm To best judge the restaurant experience, service and value for money. and venue finder visit www.graennkostur.is the Grapevine conducts its reviews anony- All opinions expressed are the critic’s mously. The sole exception is the payment www.grapevine.is for detailed own. SP information.

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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 19

the tourist season. On the most popular festival day where, pray tell, is everybody? A walk up Laugavegur is busier than the everyday but depressingly sparse in the wake of the festivals that came before. Jazz ensemble overlaps convincing Silversun Pickups covers overlaps happy pre-teen electronica overlaps hardcore pönk. Backing melodies for the dance of an ocean of discarded blue Síminn popsicle wrappers. A sign advertising “FREE WAFFLES!” lures a crowd to the park adjacent to Hemmi og Valdi, but the sign has been erected prematurely and there are, in fact, no waffles to be had. Still, a man in his mid-thirties, noticeably lubricated, demands a full waffle, not just a quarter or half. He’s willing to make a donation if his demands are met. Jars of strawberry, apricot, cherry, and raspberry jam and a plastic tub of marmalade wait to seep into hot craters, fresh off the press. Cherry looks promising. Across the park, far removed from the prominent Domino’s kiosk and nothing else, colourful attire shrouds the form of a mysterious man. Turbaned head, painted on eyebrow, painted on moustache, authentic Scottish accent. The mystic is reading palms for 500 ISK. I’m unlucky in love. I think more than is good for me. I will be working two jobs simultaneously at some point. I may die soon but mysteriously come back to life. I’ve loved three people, none of them as deeply as I should. The jaunt back down Laugavegur and Sprengjuhöllin earlier in the drunk friends at a loss for what to do. smells. The sun has been out long afternoon. An awkward and odd couple Too-liquidly-confident men clashing enough to heat the detritus that is motionless bodies and clapping, violently with too-liquidly-confident carelessly strewn about the streets, dancing, smiling performers do men on every corner. Too-emotional releasing the stenches once contained make. The masses slap their hands girlfriends holding back too-liquidly- Stefson, literally dancing on the from a day-long hangover, dishevelled therein. It reeks of trash. Pizza, pylsa, together repeatedly for Hjaltalín and confident men on every corner. Too rooftops, drummed joyously along and dancing at a bar amongst a cigarettes, alcohol, rot. The hours wear scream with high-pitched joy. Adidas many people everywhere. A field with various percussions. faceless crowd. Creator of my own on and the crowd grows in size and tracksuits generously adorned with day for an American reporter in After the concert ended I began to chaos. inebriation. The increased number of metallic reliefs of the brand’s corporate mom-jeans. A piece of nostalgia for notice flocks of inebriated kids milling people in varying states of chemical logo seem to be a popular fashion Icelanders who recall nights when about dubiously in the streets. The CATHARINE FULTON: enhancement, save for the children statement among the <20 crowd, as bars would close early and streets first time I enjoyed Menningarnótt It’s bright outside. Lækjargata is one hopes, increases the depth of does holding hands, forming a chain picked up the slack in the good old in earnest I was sixteen and was flanked by imposing chain link the layer of garbage being churned and running through the other patrons days of reckless youth. Those were the on Ingólfsstorg for the fireworks barriers, marking the route of the together by stomping feet. Broken without regard for the persons being days and this is their rebirth. Beer, display. It was right around the time marathon running simultaneously glass shines like diamonds, pops violently shoved by their actions. Oh, white wine, gin, Red Bull, gin, tonic, of night when the ground seemed to to Menningarnótt, and ensuring a like explosives, cuts into treads, is to be young and inconsiderate. The gin, gin, gin. Garbage still litters the become covered in shattered glass and drunkard-free space in which the everywhere. pungent odour of cigar smoke hangs ground but the smell fails to permeate everyone around me was throwing up. runners can execute their task. Loud A brief escape from chaos is found low in my general vicinity, mingling drink-numbed nostrils. People are It was a little bit exciting in a gross and cheers emanate from a crowd too small for many in the photography museum toxically with the sharp spice of Ali still too rowdy and too much in pathetic kind of way, to be derelict and in appearance to be making them as on Tryggvagata, where a more family- Baba and the too-much-cologne of the one another’s personal space but, part of a faceless crowd. But after a two glistening bodies hurl themselves oriented crowd browses through black man in front of me. goddamnit, everybody’s a friend in the while, I remember, the aggression and over the finish line. Pedestrians have and white photographs of Reykjavík Inside Edition aired an exposé in liquid haze of morning. chaos started to actually scare me. been relegated to a 30-cm wide strip of in the years of World War II and large the early nineties in which a finger- The party could be heard long after When I eventually ended up pavement between the metal fencing foam-core mounted images of 1960’s wagging mom-jeans clad reporter the density of the streets lessened. downtown long after the fireworks and the raised planters in front of glamour. Children and light-hearted examined the evils of pre-teen and The din of the crowd surges on as display had ended this time, I Menntaskólinn í Reykjavík and those adults alike take their turn at dressing public drunkenness thriving on the revellers wait their turn and don’t wait didn’t see even a hint of what I had not interested in watching the final up in the attire of antiquity and posing late night and early morning streets their turn at the taxi stand. In the experienced back then, although marathoners trickle in are instead for souvenir photographs in front of of downtown Reykjavík. On Saturday, hours that would on any other day be I made sure to stay far away from traversing the school’s lawn. Point A a painted backdrop depicting a valley once the fireworks had detonated, punctuated by an alarm clock the city Ingólfsstorg. It is comforting to to Point B. and lake bordered by a lush forest. Red accompanied by screams and ohh’s is finally drifting off to sleep. Another think that my habits may have Save for the excess of paper plates velvet and woven gold accents gives and ahh’s, and the crowd vacated the successful Menningarnótt. matured beyond all that, and I really and pylsa wrappers littering the everyone instant class. harbour and migrated to a watering Ingólfstorg is boiling over at 9 did think this to myself as I was interlocking pavement, Lækjartorg hole of their choosing, the overflow VALGERÐUR ÞÓRODDSDÓTTIR downtown, awake and inebriated at an looks similar to any other day this pm, a welcome change to the patchy transported 101 to 1992. Too-young CATHARINE FULTON unreasonable hour, barely recovered summer, perhaps in the height of crowd taking in Retro Stefson girls slouching in corners with too- JULIA STAPLES The Reykjavík Grapevine Dr. Gunni just happens to be an Issue 13 — 2009 extremely respected pioneer of Icelandic punk rock. HE IS PLAYING GRAPEVINE 20 GRAND ROKK on Friday 04.09. Attend.r.

Music | Interview The History of Icelandic Rock music: Part 9 Advanced Retrön & Dragons Hard Rockin’ In The Bringing the vision of Roberta & Ken Williams into the 21st century Early Seventies

Icecross recorded their eponymous and only album in Copenhagen with Dan- ish pop star Tommy Seebach on the mix- ing board. Only 1000 copies were made of the album that reached Iceland early in 1973. By that time the band had split up because of tensions that built during their The Icecross album from 1973 has in stint in Copenhagen. The album has nev- recent times fetched high prices on the er been officially re-released, but many international psych record market. This bootlegs, both on CD and vinyl, have RETRÖN is a strange animal. Loved by material. What is the reason for this devel- gradually been going away from using is due to the fact that various noteworthy been made. An Icecross comeback—and hipsters and metalheads alike, there's opment and what do you offer that other pre-programmed stuff, so now we have collectors have raved about the “legend- even a second album—have been dis- much to be said about this unique band. computer-bands do not? a drummer and try to capture the atmo- ary and mysterious” album. For instance, cussed, but nothing has materialised as With their debut, Swordplay & Guitar- Well I don't want to say that our band is sphere of the old game inspired songs the Dead Kennedys’ Jello Biafra is quoted of yet. slay, on the streets via Kimi records, we any better or worse than other videogame with synths. in the tome Incredible Strange Music Vol. Ævintýri, the former bubblegum band got Retrön guitar god Kolli to tell us about based outfits out there, but we don't con- II (1994) saying: “Iceland has produced lead by pop star Björgvin Halldórsson, the band, its ideology and and what the sider ourselves a totally videogame based REAL MEN LOVE THEM one of the darkest, grimmish and most got hard and heavy on a 7” single in 1970 hell they’re on about. band and maybe we never have. The SOME METAL brutal psych records I’ve ever heard: (two songs, Evil/Depression, in Icelan- “This is actually sort of our third at- thing that is different with Retrön and The music has become considerably more Icecross. At times they even remind me dic). The band made more original songs tempt at making this record,” says Kolli. maybe some of the other bands is that we metal sounding. Why is that? I know all of the early Meat Puppets, especially the and wanted to do a LP, but split before “The first two were unsuccessful, be- actually started out as a computer game. you guys are real men, and thus love your song 1999.” carrying out their plans. Two Ævintýri cause we didn't really know at the time Kári and I actually made a mini game metal, but please give me a more educated The truth, naturally, isn’t all that mys- members, guitarist Birgir and drummer that the band was supposed to be a rock with a bunch of levels that was called insight into this development. terious. The band rose from the debris of Sigurður, went on to form the similarly band. We were stuck in the beginning as Retrön. There was a bunch of music in The real reason is that getting a drummer Tilvera (‘Existence’) in 1971. Tilvera had hard and heavy Svanfríður, named af- an IBM PC Speaker 8-bit sort of thing. We the game that was all made in a text file made everything sound heavier. We have been bound for glory, as it contained ter a barmaid at Club Glaumbær. Other didn't have a drummer then and didn't on a program that Kári wrote. That music not knowingly changed our approach to some heavyweight Icelandic stars, but Svanfríður members were bassist Gunnar know how to make things sound good was all made with the PC speaker (the writing the guitar riffs. It used to be me the band’s output only amounted to two from Tilvera and vocalist Pétur Kristjáns- without them being rock. So now, almost thing that goes bleep when you turn on and Kári chugging away on unplugged passable singles. Icecross played dance son, who had sang with Pops and Nát- three attempts later, we have a drummer your old computer). Then people started electric guitars, but now we can try out balls and was successful even though túra. Svanfríður called their music “rock” and a bunch of synthesizers compliment- to hear the music and started asking us if instantly what sounds right. they only performed original songs writ- which hasn’t been a fancy name to drop ing what we thought the band needed for we could play the music live. So we start- ten by guitarist Axel Einarsson and bass- for many years, as it reminded too much extra awesomeness plus it rocks cancer ed thinking, ‘How can we play this music Has your background as an performance ist Ómar Óskarsson. They both sang, of the corny fifties rockers. into your balls, GWAR-style – with extra without it being a boring laptop band?’ artist at all bled into Retrön? while the power trio line up was complet- Svanfríður was a popular ball band volume. I want my rock as well as my That's where we decided to pick up the I think you can't escape what you are, ed by drummer Ásgeir Óskarsson. The during 1972. The band played the hits of shampoo with extra volume! guitars and learn the music for the game. but Retrön is supposed to be a rock band, band got known for being gloomy, even the day with jam sections in-between to So it's all kinda backwards. not a fucking performance piece, god- though the members never dabbled with keep things interesting for the members. You been working on this record for what The first bunch of songs that we per- damnit! Art performances can be great, the occult. They were also without doubt In the summer Svanfríður went to London seems to be aeons now. How has it af- formed live were all written for the PC but in most people’s mind they are just a the noisiest band in Iceland. The band and recorded nine songs, which ended fected the band and your feelings towards speaker. After that we started to imple- perverted weak evilness made to burden had eight Marshall boxes with four ten- up as the album What’s Hidden There. the material? ment the computer more as a part of people. I would rather say that a bunch of inch speakers in each, and Ásgeir had The music is progressive and hippy-ish I think it has been good for the band. If a band, and that's how we played for a Retrön has leaked into my performances built his own drum kit out of aluminium. in parts, especially the lyrics, the transac- the record had come out earlier, it would long time. Made the PC speaker mostly than the other way round. In 1972 the band moved to Copenha- tion from hippy innocence to rock tough- have been way too immature and aged do drums and some leads. So, we were gen were very favourably received when ness not wholly complete. That transac- badly. Now we sort of know better what not only trying to be a rock band playing Anything else? they played at the main club of the time, tion would come through in 1973 when Retrön is and what the band can be. Also video game cover songs, it was sort of just Buy our album and ride a wave of suc- Revolution. Says Axel: “When The Who Svanfríður split and Pétur and Gunnar the record would be by this time older means to be able to play the Retrön game cess. You don't want to be the person played in town, the members came to went on to form Pelican, Iceland’s most and therefore less virgin! music live. left standing behind with no copy and watch us play. There must have been popular seventies rock band. Svanfríður’s There are still remnants from the "Necroloser" written all over you. Also. some reason why Pete Townsend stayed album is though considered a rarity MUSIC FOR PC SPEAKERS game in one of our visual programs that Take it slow. and watch us for 55 minutes. He sat fac- amongst psych collectors and has been So, this idea of a band playing a computer- we use in concert sometimes. And we ing the stage with his beer and didn’t bootlegged severely, as no official reissue move until after we had finished our set.” influenced music or just to cover songs have only ever covered one video game exists. - DR. GUNNI from computer games it isn't a new one. song, Koji Kondo's theme from Zelda. There are plenty of bands doing that. This record will go a long way to termi- 1. Icecross By Dr. Gunni, based on his 2000 book Eru ekki However, you guys seem to have forsaken nate the misunderstanding that Retrön BIRKIR FJALAR VIÐARSSON 2. Icecross LP allir í stuði? (Rock in Iceland). A revisited up- RETRON the idea in lieu of doing more original is a videogame cover band. But we have 3. Svanfríður LP date of the book is forthcoming in 2010. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 21

Music | Review + + -

Sunn o))) Trúbatrix Monolith & Dimensions (2009) Taka 1 (2009) flightofthebehemoth trubatrix If you want truly thought One for the morning after, rather provoking, challenging music that than the night before. sounds like the end of the world, Trúbatrix – Taka 1 is a compilation it’s a plus. If your favourite band is of all female musicians (both known Hjaltalín, then... and unknown) that are brought Trúbatrix – Taka 1 is a compilation together with the idea of creating a of all female musicians (both known unified network in which they can and unknown) that are brought work to raise their profiles and create together with the idea of creating a a supportive working environment. unified network in which they can The album is pretty relaxed and cosy. work to raise their profiles and create It wouldn't be what I would listen a supportive working environment. to in order to motivate myself in the The album is pretty relaxed and cosy. morning, but I enjoyed it nonetheless, It wouldn't be what I would listen even if on a slightly frivolous level. to in order to motivate myself in the The album covers a variety of sounds, morning, but I enjoyed it nonetheless, ranging from singer/songwriter/folk even if on a slightly frivolous level. to blues, with some light poppy tracks The album covers a variety of sounds, in there too. This gives the album ranging from singer/songwriter/folk an air of variety, while the styles are to blues, with some light poppy tracks similar enough that it still sounds in there too. This gives the album pretty cohesive. On the whole it's a an air of variety, while the styles are good album and worth listening to, similar enough that it still sounds but maybe a bit lacking in substance pretty cohesive. On the whole it's a at points. It is however nice to be able good album and worth listening to, to lend support to this new artistic but maybe a bit lacking in substance community. at points. It is however nice to be able -BERGRÚN ANNA HALLSTEINSDÓTTIR to lend support to this new artistic community. -BOB CLUNESS + -

RING OF SURTSEY - AN ECOSYSTEM FORMED SEASONS. Dr. Sturla Fridrikson describes the birth of the island in ICELAND: - IT’S 1963 and how in itself it became an interesting CULTURE AND geological phenomenonandabiologicallaboratory, HISTORY where scientists could investigate how organisms Terry G. Lacy brings both disperse across the ocean to remote islands and how menacing overdriven guitars and Lights on the Highway the perspective of an plants and animals colonize completely barren areas such rolling drumbeat, evoking pictures as Surtsey. Amanita Muscaria (2009) a storm on a Nevada highway. After outsider and the familiar Available in English, French and German eye of a long-term resident Surtsey was inscribed on lightsonthehighway this they quickly settle into their US influenced brand of desert blues-rock. to this delightful exploration UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2008. Get for the hits and when they And indeed where the album works is of all facets of Iceland, past decide to rock. For the rest, just when they stick to this template (Heart and present. She conveys her THE MANUSCRIPTS OF ICELAND of Moon, Paperboat), the sound has stick to the Neil Young. story with a skillful interlacing In this collection of articles scholars present the story of substance is worth listening to. But Icelandic manuscripts, their medieval origins, the after the hits, the rest of the album of history, religion, politics, and culture to paint a vivid Even though their 2nd album has seems to meander into drawling, sub- picture of the way Icelanders live today. literature they contain and its influence up to the present just been released, LOTH’s hit single Eagles west coast acoustic territory, day. This book is a tribute to the central role that “Paperboat” has been part of the and I found myself caring less as the „This fascinating book is a must for anyone who is interested medieval Icelandic literature played in forging national radio rock landscape for what seem album went on. -BOB CLUNESS like forever now. And it’s fair to say in Iceland.“ - Dick Ringler identities in N-Europe. that the album is pretty frontloaded with stuff you’ve probably already heard. The opening track, Katrina, UNIVERSITY OF ICELAND PRESS is the highlight of the album, with haskolautgafan.hi.is – [email protected] – tel. 525 4003

Icelandic landscape by Jón Páll Vilhelmsson

Amazing photography exhibition. A “must see” event for all nature loving visitors to Iceland. Friðrik Tryggvason, curator. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 22

Music | Live review Music | Live review Music | Review Skátar's Self Inflicted To Ride, Shoot Straight... + Death Blow ...and have every one out of three shows kick- So long, goodbye, auf wiedhersen, adieu ass, while the others leave a lot to be desired

Skelkur í Bringu Húðlitað Klám (2009) skelkur Discordant and diverse, in a cool way Irony is definitely my cup of tea. If it's discordant, I’ll usually like it. If it's homogeneous, I generally won't. Therefore Húðlitað Klám, being a discordant and diverse album, worked out pretty well for me. It is an impressively varied album, so much that I'm not even going to try and slap a label on it. LastFM describes them as a 'five piece rock/comedy outfit', but even if you don' t understand the lyrics or the jokes, it's easy to appreciate the light-hearted approach they bring to a heavy sound. It gets intense at times, but the whole album is really worth a listen whether or not intensity is your thing. And if you don't like one Talk about leaving a gap in the Icelandic explosive rock debauchery. They have it song on it, it doesn't mean you won't independent music landscape. Skátar all figured out now, to the point one is like some of the others. So, if you have decided to throw in the towel and anticipating a false move or a crappy set are open of mind and pure of heart, I'm not too stoked about that. I could but it just doesn't happen. These merry listen and enjoy. -BERGRÚN ANNA I been so wrong. Uncommonly tight always count on these guys to surprise men of grease are oiled up to such an Entombed HALLSTEINSDÓTTIR me when it came to their fried as shit extent it's like a train of fun and out- and old school as a all hell, they pull musical ideas. Never a dull moment and bursts that cannot be stopped. I'm not Sororicide out a show so fluid and utterly groovy + in a city of considerable musical preten- gonna bother with naming highlights, Dr. Spock that the sheer technicality and hairpin - tiousness, every Skátar release was a but while they were playing all the Brain Police turns of modern death metal seem by breath of fresh air and every recorded goodbyers of Skátar were packing the comparison oh so boring. Leaving En- song performed on stage had the po- house and things got intimate as shit. Iðnó 21.08.2009 tombed with a fuckload of work cut tential to become something different Good times. Too bad indie rock kids in Sódóma 22.08.2009 out for them, Sororicide turn back time and twisted, depending on where their their ironic shoes don't know how to to the blastbeat’s heyday, all the while heads were at any given moment. This stagedive. Entombed are holed up in their dress- bewildering the audience by featuring unpredictability and recklessness often By this point the house had a large ing room, busy rehearsing a stand-in a guitarist dressed and coiffured such lead to some not-so-hot performances, number of malnourished indie heads bassist, as mainstay Nico Elgstrand had that egregious Britpop ought to issue but what would it be this fateful night? and normies that just got off from a baby just the previous Monday. Not offensively from his strings. needing the practice, singer Petrov, by Entombed, plagued by awful sound The show started with Skátar's work. A great mix, might I add. We Joe Pug frontman Markús playing a humorous were even graced with the presence of his own admission drunk since the AM, and minimal atmosphere, disappointed yet plenty musical solo performance— the annoying longshoreman that yelled is sat on a bench outside Iðnó amus- horribly. As this Friday show’s slow fiz- Nation Of Heat EP (2009) him, alone with his guitar and the be- "SLAYER!!" between every song. Good ing himself with drink and a cell phone zling burn gave rise to harsh criticism, tween song banter got everybody gig- lord. Also there was a considerable high recording of himself playing the piano and the sold out Saturday performance thejoepug (rather virtuously I might add). gling. Good for him. I'd been looking number of drunk, under aged kids in exploded like a series of clusterbomb Country-blues from the Dylan/ Inside, stoner rockers Brain Police blasts, we’ll pretend Friday night never forward to Me The Slumbering Napo- attendance, which only added to the Springsteen stable. Nothing new leon as they had left a good impression party-like atmosphere. What about the are serving a slab of stoner rock in the happened and launch right into a re- under the sun, but the sun shines on me earlier this summer. boy that was crowd surfing with a bottle key of stoner rock. That being the case, view of their incendiary Saturday night of Jägermeister in his hands? Guess the it all sounds like an endless stoner rock onslaught. still. SURPRISED FROM THE SLUMBER security didn't give a damn. Stellar. medley, stoner rock being too damn Stand-in bassist Victor Brandt of lazy ever to have evolved to the level of “I’ve come to say exactly what I So many bands come to mind when Satyricon and Totalt Jävla Helvetes För- mean,” sings Pug on the statement- these guys play their dirgy, thought-out SWAN SONG song-writing. The thought strikes that bannat Svart Skit Mörker För Fan, now they´re perhaps too perpetually stoned of-intent opener, Hymn #101, “And and surprising take on experimental There was a lot of love for Skátar in the three gigs deep and hitting his stride, I mean so many things.” That tale of indie rock (or whatever you wanna call room and people anticipated their swan to realise they´re over. The audience contributes his fair share of damage though—by dint of not showing up— stubbornness, love and adventure it). It's like the 90s of daring and hectic song with shining eyes, which is pretty to the all consuming obliteration per- showcases the 23-year-old’s inherent music never happened, and the scene amazing considering it was getting must have. Next, please. petrated by the band, and the stellar Dr. Spock, proud purveyors of nov- knack of framing a raw and emotive here is better for it. I'm Being Good, much too fucking late. Skátar began sound production lent added force to acoustic-country with often self- Melvins, Shellac, Metroshifter, Skátar their set with an anti-bang. The drum- elty and nonsense, are first and fore- the gravity of frightening doses of death most a raging live act, and as such truly searching lyrics. It’s poetic, too: Call and Graveslime are all points of refer- kicker broke, and they had to start the n’ roll riffage cast in lead. The sold out It What You Will’s resonant imagery ence. These guys are oddly surprising song over. Oh well. It was certainly for- a sight to behold. Two singers strong venue teems with aural orgasm and a pit and armed with gimmicks galore, the and matter-of-fact descriptions of to the point that they seem to surprise givable. The die-hard Skátar fans were erupts like equal parts violence, chaos life-changing experiences are simple, themselves sometimes while playing. eating it up, and a joyous chaos ensued band rip the near deserted venue sev- and mayhem reaching a boiling point. eral new ones. Moustachioed string brilliantly observed and shruggingly But it never becomes too fragile. Wild and it was fun to witness. Crowd surf- Life and limbs flail every which way and fatalistic as you like. The influence of stop-and-gos, a nasty Purple Haze cover ing, stage invasions, crappy stagedives bean vocalist Óttar Proppé looks like from the depths of a rapturous melee he´s leading a Bavarian hoe-down while Springsteen’s expansiveness reigns and a bunch of attention grabbing mo- and Markús' unpredictable stage antics of ecstatic flesh and bone, spread with supreme in Nobody’s Man and the ments that outnumbered the few not- plus plenty of funny banter between his squealing counterpart, recovering a layer of hell-bent crowd surfing, bod- fat fuck Finni, looks like the live perfor- excellent I Do My Father’s Drugs, so thought provoking ones. My rad-o- songs. ies are randomly and unexpectedly whilst the blues harp-driven Hymn meter slanted well into the red section, The fact remains that Skátar failed mance cardiovascular workout burns catapulted at chairs, tables and fellow more obesity per hour of vocal outburst 35 sounds a lot like Fields Of Gold as so go see those guys and pick up their to do their own material, and their last citizens. Keeping drinks safely confined sung by Bob Dylan. The fact that the stash for further inspection when it night on stage, any justice. It's rather than any fiery furnace in hell. to glasses becomes akin to a herculean Their drummer, armed with more harmonica is probably deliberately comes out. sad, really. A lot of mistakes were made, feat, as liquid spurts everywhere like flat (as it is on the EP-ending title You can say all the jaded shit you the band sounded torn and untight for chops than the entire Icelandic lamb high velocity splatter born from colli- farming industry, regularly paces the track) adds atmosphere. Emotive and want about Sudden Weather Change, an alarming portion of the set, and there sion atop jarring collision. naked, independent and occasionally but one should be thankful for a young were way too many awkwardly long stage as if never having been taught Entombed, sitting on a huge dis- his proper place. The band often lapse hard-eyed, Pug’s uncomplicated indie band that echoes Unwound in- pauses between songs that stretched cography, run the gamut of releases, arrangements give him authenticity into what might be called a more main- pulling off a masterful balance act of stead of The Killers and Sonic Youth the set to the point where it was almost and power. -JOE SHOOMAN as opposed to the fucking Strokes. Joy! unbearable to stick around for the not- stream version of early D.E.P mixed with a set that combines old with new with I've seen them pull better sets out of so glorious end. But hits were played, any random Patton project, and only raw with crushing. Opener “Chief Rebel their collective cute asses but they still tons of people had fun, Skátar looked stray from their path of aural transgres- Angel” kindles more audience passion made me want to listen due to the sweet humbled but they were having a fuck- sion when launching into bluesy Beach than most numbers, but tracks off of connection and flow that seems to be ing blast. I truly am saddened that there Boys laden fare and the odd, bizarre, DCXLXVI: To Ride… fall like a rain of connecting these boys. The bass sound won’t be any new Skátar material. Let passage of left field reggae renderings. bricks and satisfy at least your humble was big and gnarly and their set ran us all marvel and digest their recorded Sororicide, legacy and legend narrator. Interspersed with early Left smoothly. Too bad the sound guy didn't legacy, 'cause there's so much unique wrapped in a neat brutal bundle, are Hand Path era material the barrage cul- realise there were three guys singing. brilliance in their body of work that we performing tonight with something minates with “When in Sodom,” a track will have plenty to sink our teeth into resembling the original line-up for the all the more potent tonight when be- YOUR IRONIC SHOES ARE NO for years to come. A band of nerds for first time since... since pretty much ing wielded at a club bearing the name GOOD FOR STAGEDIVING the nerds. You will be missed. the first couple weeks of the Icelandic Sódóma. Reykjavík! were up next and it didn't death metal scene. Their shit being ancient, I fear the material could be merely take them long to get everybody over BIRKIR FJALAR VIÐARSSON BOGI BJARNASON into their realm of jangly, noisy and JULIA STAPLES a heap of over-hyped lore. Seldom have HÖSKULDUR HÖSKULDSSON New super duper Moods of Norway store has opened in the Kringlan shopping mall

-"6("7&(*,3*/(-6//*t

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FIND YOUR ESSENCE IN ICELAND The Reykjavík Grapevine You can buy some Hugleikur Dagsson Buy the reviewed comix - and many Issue 13 — 2009 anthologies all over the world. Get "Avoid Us" more - at Nexus, Hverﬁ sgata. in pretty much every Icelandic bookstore. It's Yeah! 24 awesome.

Comix | Reviews — by Hugleikur Dagsson

—by Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir

Must Love Zombies The Walking Dead movies tend to end at some point. So he writes a comic that never ends. That's the Robert Kirkman & Tony Moore hook. It just goes on and on and you are forced to watch the protagonists endure There is something very addictive in all the horrors a regular zombocaust this ongoing, apparently non-stop series. survivor goes through. You'll watch What can it be? Its 10th paperback them age. You'll watch them bleed. And volume is out now, and still there is no you'll love it. If you love zombies, that is. apparent plot, the characters are kind If you're a vampire lover, go watch the of regular and the dialogue is kind of mediocre shampoo commercial that is regular too. It's too regular. Reminds Twilight. you of real life. Except for the fact that it TWD is illustrated in glorious black takes place in the aftermath of a zombie & white by Tony Moore, who knows — by Elo Vázquez and Óttar Norðfjörð apocalypse. how to draw zombies. The zombies here In the last ten years or so, zombies are the walking kind (a la Romero) not have risen in popularity like nobody's the running kind (a la Boyle). Which business. In movies, they’ve been the zombies do you like better? Zombies, ultimate monsters. Perhaps because zombies, zombies. they represent the end of the world in Hey, they recently announced a way, another popular subject these that there will be a TWD TV series. days. Although recently, it looks as if Hopefully, it will be in black & white as the always fashionable vampires (also well. Well, Frank Darabont is producing, known as "zombies for girls") might be and he loves black & white (his special taking over. Still, once bitten, forever edition of The Mist was in black & smitten. Zombie lovers will love The white). After all, a zombie infested world Walking Dead. is pretty black & white. Black & white, After a couple of volumes, you'll black & white, black & white. realize Kirkman's goal. Here is a zombie lover who hates the fact that all zombie HUGLEIKUR DAGSSON

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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 Trip provided by Borea Adventures. Check them out at www.boreaadventures.com. 26

Travel | THE MIGHTY NORTH ATLANTIC The Metaphysical Art of Sailing the North Atlantic Sailing from the West Fjords to the Faeroe Islands; there and back in one piece - almost; and then, somehow making friends with Father Sea

THE SEA, THE SEA, THE UNENDING Beerenberg volcano on Jan Mayen just with nature—the elements, the wildlife; would.” SEA last year). Think an Icelandic version of secondly, to learn about local cultures— “But oftentimes,” says Rúnar, “when Jacques Cousteau, only without the wool- the food, the life around the fire; thirdly they leave, they’re sad it’s coming to an There is something elemental that hap- ly red caps and the beards, and you’re to experience nature through outdoor end. I don’t know if you’d call it meta- pens when you face an unbridled ocean. getting warm, only sometimes they sail activities—sailing, skiing, kayaking, physical, but we often get people telling It’s something so primal; it affects the straight through blizzards and alongside climbing, hiking. We try to make it a us that the trip has somehow given them very core of our DNA. Herman Melville icebergs. complete experience. And, being that it is some new insight on things.’ wrote: ‘[The sea] is the image of the un- Sigurður Jónsson (Siggi) and Rúnar an adventure, there’s always something graspable phantom of life; and this is the Karlsson procured Aurora from Sir Rob- unexpected. But of course, that’s part of G-FORCES, THE BENDS, THEN, key to it all.’ How bloody apt he was. in Knox-Johnston, the first man to sin- the fun. Aurora never stays in one place FINALLY, BLISS Stare that roaring North Atlantic gle-handedly circumnavigate the globe too long. The adventure, you see, always straight in the eye from the edge of a non-stop. Sir Robin conceived the Clip- continues.” Looking back on the three and a half sailing boat, no land in sight, watch it per Around the World Race, in which Speaking from personal experience days spent sailing from Húsavík to Fug- breathe, swelling in and out like the Aurora raced four times. The lady Aurora by now, I ask, “Do you often see people lafjørður in the Faeroes, I can’t help but gigantic living creature it is, and you is quite a lass; and, as I find out the hard go through some kind of personal trans- smile. I could never have guessed what truly realise who you are; and it ain’t that way, she knows these waves and winds by formation by the end of the trip?” it would be like shooting across the icy much, believe me. their first names. Aurora is presently the “Sometimes when they board, you Atlantic. Most of the time, there was only deep ocean sailing boat of its class see this strange glimmer of surprise on nearly no sleep at all. In a bunk with a STRAIGHT INTO THE UNBRIDLED in Iceland, now in her fourth summer of people’s eyes, like: Are we really going to safety net, if tied properly, you won’t fall adventures on the high seas. sleep there? Is the toilet really going to on the floor like I did; but try and find Ísafjörður’s Borea Adventures and their “We see Aurora as our mothership, be working? Or perhaps there’s a snow- a sleeping position with Aurora pitching, ship Aurora are a must for anyone who our portable mountain cabin. During storm outside, and for a moment they’re tossing, rumbling, creaking. wants to experience adventure on the the day, our tours set out across wild wondering what the hell they got them- Sometimes, when she’s sailing at North Atlantic, in the Westfjords, Green- country, but in the evening, our guests selves into. Normally after three days or twelve knots or more, it sounds like land, the Faeroes, or even all the way to come home to a piping hot stew,” says so, people start to find the rhythm. On someone is desperately shaking a mara- the Arctic (they scaled the 2770m active Siggi, Aurora’s seasoned skipper. “Our their third or fourth day, they’re enjoy- ca directly over my head all through the philosophy is threefold: firstly, to be one ing it more than they thought they ever

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gift of two of his collections. Towards the end, he tells me he’s looking for a manager, so maybe he has an ulterior motive. In Tórshavn there is no shortage of great restaurants, bars, pubs and coffee shops. There’s plenty to see here, and you can easily spend days checking out museums and wandering the cobbled alley- ways, or squelch over the moorlands of Stremoy to the famous Kirkjubøur where a medieval cathedral looms in the middle of the village. Everywhere we see teams training for the Tórshavn Festival races in their typical six-man rowing boats called seksmannafar. From Tórshavn, we move on to Gota to experience the G!Festival, where many night—only they have no bloody sense of are not enough sand eels to go around. Faeroe bands such as Teitur, Orka and rhythm. There are times when I want to My first real test of courage is the A FAEROE SHIMMY AND Lena Andersen are headlining (Eivør stick up my hands and give up and beg overnight sail to Húsavík; this cost me SHIBOODLE Pálsdóttir is conspicuously missing Siggi to pull in at the nearest oil rig; of three or four bruises and a fluttering this year). The festival is a like a mini course, between Iceland and the Faeroes, heart. I kiss the dock when we arrive, but For the next five days, all is smooth sail- Glastonbury, with tents and seagulls there’s nothing at all, just rolling ocean, after a few glasses of wine I am ready to ing, and on the second day, when we whirring overhead for scraps, red sun- killer whales, skuas and kittiwakes swirl- tackle the big crossing. Watching hump- leave Fuglafjørður to Klaksvik in the sets, and mind-blowing music. We’ll be ing on updrafts. And when it rains and backs and minke gleefully blowing their Northern Islands, the sun comes out and doing a full report on the festival and a comfortable; at times you might imagine the waves rattle over my back as I stare saltwater jets across Skjálfandi bay helps all the grassy-mossy cliffs in the Faeroes Faeroese take on Icelandic music in an a killer whale could reach over the side out at sea transfixed, all I can think of is steady my nerves too. shimmer. Even the sheep look virtually upcoming edition of Grapevine. of Aurora and tug you in at any minute. my warm bed at home, far away. Now we are finally crossing the great spiritual. The Faeroe people are beyond The day after the festival, I’m invited But join Siggi and Rúnar in any of their The first leg of the trip starts gently, expanse of ocean. In my mind, I liken it hospitable and talkative; and just like Ice- back to Sigvør Laska, Eivør Pálsdóttir’s adventures on the high seas and I guar- not much wind, so we chug leisurely to traversing the Sahara. Three and a half landers, they’re a well-travelled and curi- manager’s place, for brunch. Sigvør antee you, you’ll come back an entirely from Ísafjörður crossing the bays of days of 30 knot winds, sometime five me- ous bunch. Most speak excellent English. produces the dreaded Faeroe speciality, new person. Fljótavík and Hornvík, get daringly close tre squalls—well, at the time, I believe Often in these small villages when I look wind-dried mutton (skerpikjøt), which In the words of Herman Melville in to a number of bird cliffs, including it’s nearly the end of me; in actual fact, for a pub I’ll ask a local, and they’ll say, looks much like Spanish Serrano ham Moby Dick: ‘Methinks that what they Straumnes, and Hælavíkurbjarg where it’s just the beginning. When we finally “What do you need that for? Just knock but tastes more like old shoe soles (not call my shadow here on earth is my true I snap some killer shots of kittiwakes, reach the tiny fishing village of Fug- on the nearest door, they’ll give you a surprising the literal translation is ‘belt’s substance. Methinks that in looking at arctic terns, tons of guano, and a the oc- lafjørður on Eysturoy’s east coast in the coffee, a cognac and some chocolate bis- meat’); it kind of rounds off my experi- things spiritual, we are too much like casional bobbing puffin. Of course many Faeroes, I crack open my best bottle of cuits.” ence here. As I walk down the hill from oysters observing the sun through the of us know of the puffin problems in the whiskey and celebrate—the whole bottle. This proves to be entirely true, for Sigvør’s house, through the waterlogged water, and thinking that thick water the Westman Islands, but later, when I visit If ever there was an initiation on becom- in Tórshavn, while meandering the grass and past dozens of hearty Faeroe thinnest of air.’ the tiny island of Nólsoy in the Faeroes, ing a man, this is it, only for me it’s twen- winding lanes in-between quaint, grass- sheep, I remember I’m sailing back to I learn from a Danish taxidermist that ty years too late. Still, better late than roofed houses, I stumble across a local Iceland tomorrow and about to see my puffins all over the North Atlantic are never. Finally, I can get on with what I’ve poet who invites me back home for a new friend the North Atlantic again. MARC VINCENZ facing serious issues—apparently there come for, to explore the Faeroes. couple of beers, a poetry reading, and a Not quite to wax lyrical, but there’s absolutely nothing like it. It’s cold, it’s un- MARC VINCENZ

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Travel | The sporting life Deep Down Dirty: Mýrarbolti Matures

The spectacle of it—just outside the get into a few games, I'm told this is picturesque town of Ísafjörður in the nothing to take casually. “You are here again. You West Fjords, there are hundreds of When I arrive, I am ushered to are here for a fucking locals dressed up in Halloween style an hour-long organised presentation outfits covered in mud, shivering, of the rules of Mýrarbolti, complete dirty party.” drinking from large cans of beer in with Microsoft PowerPoint slides. the rain. To pull up to this, passing Standing among neatly-dressed, streets of Ísafjörður, I am positive a dozen teenagers limping and athletic Icelanders in a large of one thing: Mýrarbolti will always splattered with mud walking down ballroom at the Edinborg House be exactly as it was on day one. the highway away from the event, before PowerPoint slides, I die a Gloriously dirty and stupid. Ecstatic I think at first there has been an little on the inside. and subverbal. Bukowski said sex accident, that something has gone I have travelled 3500 miles to is like trying to climb a muddy horribly wrong. support mayhem and madness. I've hill. The Mýrarbolti tournament in This is Mýrarbolti, or Swamp landed in what looks like a Microsoft Ísafjörður is custom made by people Soccer, the phenomenon that has morale event. who deeply sympathise with that taken over the West Fjords during Then magic happens. Okay, analogy. the holiday that the rest of Iceland liquor happens. From 9 PM to 4 AM, I drive in early with a car full of dedicates to music, sing-alongs, my Icelandic compatriots shed their Reykjavík natives who shake their and dating rituals that won't be facade. heads at the sight. It is 8 degrees and explained here. I have the following conversation raining and muddy. I have returned this year to see with my old goalie just before I leave There is, as I said, the spectacle. how far Mýrarbolti has come. Three to go to bed to get three hours sleep: There are costumes, cheers, and years ago, the event was the domain “You are here again. You are here mud. But walking from team to of a few maniacal souls, among for a fucking dirty party.” team, nobody has anything to say them a leather pants-wearing, trash- “Yeah, I guess I am. Are you about Mýrarbolti as a sport other talking guitar player and singer for playing?” than “it is very very cold.” One man the band Nine-Elevens. Three years “Hell yes. You are too. You are says he'll feel better when he gets ago, this gentleman, who looked playing. You're playing.” another beer and warms up, but as and smelled as though he'd just “They said I should sit this out.” he is getting his beer, I am slammed left a ritual sacrifice, escorted me “No. You're playing. You are into and covered with mud by a to a hilarious six-hour tournament going to get dirty. It is a dirty large, angry woman in a pink cape of running in deep deep mud and weekend. Everybody is going to be who is looking for Hilmar. drinking heavily. dirty and horny. So fucking dirty!” As I leave the Mýrarbolti Three years later, my old host And so it goes. tournament, a team of mini-skirted lives with a modern dancer in All the buttoned-down planning women is shouting “Are we men, Holland. I think he smokes a is a show with limited correlation or are we WOMEN!” and beginning tobacco pipe and wears a hat without to the actual tournament. In fact, their penalty phase—they have irony. I'm told he even bathes in most of the people I meet at the committed a foul and are now water instead of the blood of rams. pre-tournament party don't get to wearing black bags over their heads, And three years later, I am Mýrarbolti itself. Even my editor charging at women in black tights, told Mýrarbolti has changed. As reacts with “You're seriously going in the mud, before a cheering crowd I arranged to fly in for the event out there?” when I leave a house of grandparents in rain gear. from Seattle, I am told this is now a party a few hours after sunrise. ZZZLVOHQVNLEDULQQLVLQIR#LVOHQVNLEDULQQLV three-day tournament. A worldwide Closing my eyes for sleep, 7KH,FHODQGLF%DU$XVWXUY|OOXU5H\NMDYtN7HO BART CAMERON phenomenon. When I say I'd love to hearing the screaming through the BART CAMERON The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 If you're ever in Blönduós, don't just go to the gas station. There's a rather pretty town to explore. And the gas station is random and 29 boring. So check out the innards. And get confused. Reykjavík Downtown Hostel Travel | Destination Blönduós, Mother Of All Confusion Your dream location in downtown Reykjavík Enjoy the comforts of your private room or share a room with new friends

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I do not know what it is about Blönduós that brings on confusion. If I did, I could bottle it and sell it as bottled misunderstanding. I would become very rich indeed. Bottled misunderstanding would no doubt make a good party gift and become popular at stag and hen parties that frequently dish out the most outlandish forms of humiliation and torture to the recipients. Everything taped and shown on reality TV infiltrates everything, also Reykjavík Downtown Hostel weddings and Christmas parties, with I had just been fishing nearby and I called you earlier about fixing my its inglorious intimacy, like smelling managed—with the help of a rocky exhaust!’ Vesturgata 17 ❚ 101 Reykjavík ❚ Tel. 553 8120 ❚ www.hostel.is someone else’s socks. road leading to the river—to put a ‘Yeah, man, how are you?’ But back to Blönduós. hole in the exhaust pipe of my car, ‘Yeah, good man. Good. How can I A few years back I received some which tends to be in denial of the fact find your place?’ Christmas presents from my sister that it is not a jeep. ‘Well, I’m just up the hill on living in Blönduós. She asked me if I ask my sister Dísa whether she Dyngjuvegur.’ I could do her a favour and deliver a knows the local mechanic and she ‘I’m sorry but I don’t know where couple of other presents that arrived says ‘no.’ But Gísli does. that is. ‘Is it close to the N1 station?’ with mine. I would deliver them to Too bad Gísli is at the wedding ‘What N1 station?’ her husband’s niece, whose name is rehearsal and I need to get this fixed ‘Well, the one up on the hill...’ (To Stefanía. “No problem,” I said, and pronto. It is a Friday afternoon, and the guy at the counter, I remark, ‘isn’t she gave me Stefanía´s number. I ring my wife and daughter are coming this a N1 station?’ He points at the the number: early evening. I want to get this fixed sign outside the window. It should be Hi, is this Stefanía? now. obvious). ‘Yes, this is her,’ she says. I I call directory enquiries. 118. I ask I carry on and ask the guy respond: My name is Sigtryggur, I am them for a car mechanic in Blönduós. at the counter where I can find Dísa´s brother and she asked me to They hook me up, the phone rings Dyngjuvegur. He just shakes his head get some Christmas packages to you! and a guy answers on the other side. and says there is no such street in There is an unnerving hush on Hi, is this the garage? I hear kids Blönduós. the other end of the phone. Then she in the background and have a feeling It’s finally happened. My phone says, ambiguously: ‘What did you say I have the wrong number. has hit a secret line in a parallel your name was?’ He responds: ‘Well, I’m the universe. Obviously. The damn I am getting a little weirded out mechanic, but I am at home. What do microwaves have altered my by this conversation. I have met you want?’ brainwaves after ten years of heavy this woman at my sister’s family ‘Well, my name is Sigtryggur. I am cellphone abuse. functions.... also, I am at least a Gísli´s brother in law, and am going to There is an ominous silence on semi-celeb in Iceland and am used his daughter’s wedding tomorrow. I the other end. to being recognised. Is she fooling managed to put a hole in my exhaust ‘I’m at the N1 station alright, with me or could it be that she is and need some help fixing it today. where can I find you?’ actually deranged to some extent, Can you help me?’ I tell him all this to ‘There is no N1 station here. maybe drunk or on some kind of try and establish a personal contact Where are you?’ prescription drug? with the man, hoping he is a friend of I cannot believe this shit. Is this I say: ‘Sigtryggur Baldursson is my brother in law, and will thus treat a hidden camera show? Damned my name, you know, Dísa´s brother! me like a local. And not rip me off. reality TV again! My sister Dísa who is married to your ‘Well, you should call Gunnar at I blurt out: ‘Ha ha ha man. I’m mother’s brother Gísli!’ I am getting a the garage, he can help you...’ standing in a middle of a N1 station little heated... I take down the number and call here in Blönduós and I swear to She goes: ‘Huh!?? Who’s Gísli?’ Gunnar. Gunnar gets the same stupid you, it is very real. At least to me!’ I I am sure she is deranged, her introduction from me, pleading close produce a stifled cough. voice sounds a little sluggish. Doesn’t connections with locals. He gives me There is a silence. Then he says: it? a friendly hum hum, and tells me to ‘You better check your map, man. I say: ‘Your mother’s name is come at three o’clock. I am in Bolungarvík [a small town, Sigga, is it not? I ask my sister where the garage hundreds of kilometres away].’ She replies with a very curt: ‘No.’ is located. She says it’s somewhere I feel semi violated, like being shat I say: ‘Your name is Stefanía, up the hill by the N1 station and tells on by a bird. right?’ me I can’t miss it. Then she pulls a To the right of the N1 station is She says: ‘Yes it is, but not the strange, almost worried look and something called Jóhann’s garage. one you are looking for.’ says that I better check with the guy, I walk in there and speak to the It dawns on me that this is since she thinks there are more than first person I see. A lanky youth perhaps a bizarre coincidence. I beg one garages in town. examining the underside of a beat up my pardon and put the phone down. ‘No problem,’ I say, ‘I still have his jeep. I call my sister. Lo and behold, number written down.’ I put on my He recognises me immediately there is one digit askew in the shoes and make a move to get on my and asks me if I am going to the number she gave me. But that’s not way. wedding tomorrow. all. I go and get some gas at the N1 Blönduós. All this came back to me earlier station. I decide to call Gunnar the this summer, as I was going to my mechanic from there, to see where SIGTRYGGUR BALDURSSON niece’s wedding in Blönduós. he is located: ‘Hi it’s Sigtryggur again, JULIA STAPLES The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 30

Travel | Destination Come to Daddi’s! The Lake Mývatn region explored via a pizza menu. Yes, a pizza menu.

“Out of the 500.000 tourists that give Ice- landers the honour of their presence every year, 80 percent visit this mind-blowing natural treasure hidden in the North called Mývatn, so mind what you see.” Those were the first words our guide ut- tered at us Grapeviners when we finally arrived at this legendary haven, after nearly six hours of stuffy car-atmosphere, bad coffee and way too much gas. The truth is though that the alleged guide wasn’t really a guide, and our aim was definitely not to collect material for a cli- ché-ish tourist piece. Plenty of that to go around elsewhere.

A SODOM ABYSS AND WOEFUL HOTEL EMPLOYEE

Full disclosure: our “guide” and his spouse are rather good friends of ours, and one of our reasons for travelling up there was to check out their pizza parlour, Daddi’s, that they recently opened there in the wilderness. And to take in the amazing sights, of course. After glancing over the menu and rolling down a slice of the Grjótagjá, the idea of documenting the area through the menu came up. Let’s elaborate: the good people of Daddi’s have named every single pizza on the menu after every noteworthy sight in the area. Each pie’s name is meant to indicate their demeanour, appearance and vibe. This was of course an upright task to research, that is if they succeeded in replicating the sights with the pizzas and if a tasting menu of pizzas could even replace the sightseeing completely. Eat your way through Iceland. Ha. Since we’d already tasted the, well, the plain weird pizza Grjótagjá (which boasts of featuring the absurd topping combo of tuna and bacon), we’d of course have to dip our toes into the abyss. The locals call it Sodom Abyss, and they like to jump in there regularly—stripped to their toes— to sit in the boiling water buried in a cave. Like the pizza, the combo seemed odd. But the pizza was also surprisingly tasty, so we had hopes for Sodom Abyss. Shish Kebab As soon as we had let the water boil our bare butts for few minutes, we discovered Falafel what all the fuss was about; the calm drone was genuinely soothing, the warm Shawerma water softens your sturdy limbs and the gone horribly wrong. Simply put, there muborgir and Skútustaðir had to be ex- nudity takes on an air of irrelevance. You was a lot more boozing and debauchery plored, gnats needed to be unearthed, couldn’t achieve an erection even if you than I’d ever witnessed in Reykjavík’s Höfði had to be conquered and the no- really tried. Seriously. sloppiest after-parties. I can even think of torious cowboy had to be found. Skútu- We got invited to a party at the local hotel a topping the pizza would have on top of staðir is an eminent farm near the village after we’d dried the euphoria off us and it. But I won’t tell you what. where they produce smoked trout, which gotten our heads straight. Thank god is, alongside their rye, an area delicacy. they don’t have a pizza named that party. FÊTE IN THE “CLEARING” AND Surprisingly, its pizza didn’t boast of any It was packed with woeful kids that had NORWEGIAN BLACKMETAL smoked trout at all, but it did have some obliviously travelled to the country to de- mincemeat and bacon. Veltusund 3b, v.Ingólfstorg toxify the accumulated city ramshackle, After gulping the second day’s pizza The pizza was definitely a crowd-pleaser, s: 445 4445 but as in a slasher flick, their fantasy had portion, we had a lot on our hands: Dim- but if old Daddi is going to replace the The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 31

Elegant surroundings Superb cuisine pouring rain in radiant sun and the pizza made sense; carefully chosen mushy veg- Modern comfort etables—appeasing and fulfilling. Preserving quality After we visited our dear abyss that night, is our business we moved over to something every local cherishes —a party at ‘The Clearing.’ Open daily for lunch and dinners The party place lived up to its name, although it might sound a bit cliché. A cosy Special oﬀ er on Monday bonding fire, nice guitar tunes and jolly and Tuesday – 3 course dinner people. That eventually morphed into for only 4200 ISK. wobbling drunken unfortunates, fall- ing on their own pee spurts, playing folk Reservation: tel. 552 5700, songs lying on their backs too drunk to e-mail: [email protected] hold them steady sitting up. At seven AM, a few were drunk and cockeyed enough to decide upon a repeat visit to the abyss, yours truly included. Note to self: five people, a two-person-Re- Bergstaðastræti 37 s. 552 5700 nault Smart, way-too-many beers, a few [email protected] www.holt.is bottles of vodka, climbing down to a cave and boiling hot water is never a good mix. beat with his pizzas, he might wanna pair them up better. The gnats weren’t hard to GEOTHERMAL WONDERS AND THE locate, the lake is of course named after ENDLESS JOURNEY HOME those little bastards. They might seem a bit cosy at first, but they’ll turn on you. As It was a wise decision not to knock down a for the pizza of the same name, it seemed pick-me-up beer when we woke up hung- to follow a similar maxim: the smoked over off our asses ‘cause what we had in trout and cream cheese begun by busting store was hulking: the volcano Krafla was your taste buds, but after a few bites you’d to be visited, as well as the geothermal rather move over to something like Dim- area Námuskarð. The volcanic Krafla muborgir. pizza, brimful of various melted cheeses, The lava statues that greet you at Dim- clearly reminded you of the raunchy sur- muborgir easily explain why a (formerly) roundings of the still-active volcano, but brutal black metal band is named after Námaskarð was positively the best repli- the phenomenon. They are quite intimi- ca. The bubbling hot springs represented dating. For me, as a man who normally the pepperoni and jalapeno filled pizza, doesn’t take pineapple on his pizza, the and the colour scheme fit! eponymous pie was also intimidating. On the endless, dark and murky way But once you lay off the prejudices you re- home, we had some time to contemplate alize that there’s nothing demonic about our journey. We thrashed out a mutual it, just an absurdly formed cosiness. That conclusion: although the pizzas were goes for both the pizza and the place. grand and rich you should definitely ac- Next up was Höfði, a secret garden full company the tasting menu with a sight- of mystique and lust. As soon as one seeing tour. And maybe a beer or two. stepped over the fence, it was as a calm wind subdued all your thoughts and ev- SIGURÐUR KJARTAN KRISTINSSON eryone got quiet. We walked through the GAS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 32

Dining | Lunch The Lunch Patrol Canada’s Finest Chow Down In 101 Reykjavík CF: It tastes the same as pumpkin pie, with spices and shit. RL: Lots of cinnamon. CF: Yup. RL: Lots of whipped cream. CF: Yeah. As every pumpkin-slash- sweet potato pie should have. RL: Uh-huh! CF: A little bit of nutmeg. Some all spice, if you will. Moist, buttery crust. RL: Why aren’t we having that right now? Tel +354 577 60 50 www.sixt.is At this point in the conversation we developed an elaborate business plan that may very well lead us to great riches. Keep an eye on us; we’re moving on to bigger and better things. Things that involve pumpkins. Catharine Fulton: RL: Same magical animal! How can Hey Louder! one animal produce so many good CF: I’ve hit a wall. Licensing and What should we meats? RL: I’m hitting a wall too. It’s not the have for lunch CF: You know what else it produces? same when you’re not drunk. There’s today? Since pigs don’t sweat, butchers will something about alcohol that gives you registration of travel- Rebecca Louder: Hey Fulton! Let’s go sometimes cut into an exploding ball a completely hollow leg and you can to Nonnabiti! of puss and mucus trapped inside the just pack food in there until you don’t related services Fulton got the prawn sub, flesh. know what’s what. But when you’re substituting mushrooms for green RL: This is really good conversation for sober you know your limits and you peppers and adding pickles to the eating. don’t have to eat the full twelve inches The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, bunch. Everything is good with salted CF: I loves me some salted pork. of Nonnabiti sandwich. as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. pork. RL: I’m glad I’m eating beef right now. CF: Thirty centimetres. I shouldn’t Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved Louder opted for the beef CF: I don’t like beef. have gotten the carbonated beverage by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet and cheese sub, with lettuce and RL: Do they have pumpkins here? with my sandwich, it’s taking up too website. pickled red peppers – though she CF: mm-mm (that’s ‘no’ with a mouth much space in my stomach. Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist couldn’t really taste the cheese. full of Nonnabiti) RL: Carbonated beverages actually Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the Disappointment. RL: Then how the hell would I make make more space in your stomach. Icelandic Tourist Board. pumpkin pie? Do they have canned CF: Liar. CF: I’ve never had Nonnabiti sober, pumpkin? RL: It’s true. this is going to be quite the test. CF: mm-mm (also ‘no’ with a mouth CF: Really!? Huh. List of licenced Tour RL: Me neither, actually. I’ve eaten it full of Nonnabiti) Operators and Travel Super Canadian Verdict: Agencies on: once and I was really hammered. RL: Damnit! visiticeland.com CF: It’s a convenient place to come CF: You’d have to settle for sweet potato It’s no poutine, eh, but it’ll get ‘er done drunk. I loves me some salted pork! pie in that case. after a 2-4 o’ Molson’s. RL: Is that what it is? RL: Motherfuck… CF: It’s pork. CF: Have you ever had it? RL: I thought it was ham. RL: Actually, sweet potato pie is CATHARINE FULTON CF: It’s pork. Same animal. delicious. REBECCA LOUDER

Activities | Historic walks Things I Learned At The Gay History Walk

a great significance in the gay history history. of Reykjavík. One of the reasons There were, for instance, the probably being that in the early years times of WWII when British and of Samtökin 78—the National Queer American soldiers inhabited the Organisation—they had to move location country. Thousands upon thousands of quite frequently, since very few were uniformed soldiers swarmed the young willing to rent space to the organisation. city’s nightlife, and the men of Iceland Their first headquarters were located at screamed bloody murder as the girls Garðarstræti 2, which is a very simple swooned at their advances. In our history apartment building near Ingólfsstræti. books, the only thing mentioned about Gays have had to fight diligently for this is the fear every man in Iceland their rights in Reykjavík, and it wasn’t harboured of losing his wife to a soldier. until 1987 that Samtökin 78 started to They never mention what a euphoric receive public funding. In what came fantasy world this must have being for a When I first heard about the gay history as a surprise to some, it was actually gay man in Reykjavík. “A friend of mine walk, I wasn’t sure what to make of it. In Iceland’s former Prime Minister, then that now resides in a retirement home all honesty I didn’t really think there were mayor of Reykjavík Davíð Oddsson, who always talks of these times with tears in that many places relevant to gay history administered the funding. his eyes,” proclaimed Baldur. in a burgh as small as Reykjavík. Boy One of the more interesting Notable by its absence was the was I wrong. characters Baldur told of about during lesbian input in the walk. Of course, What I learned on the one-hour the walk was Þórður Sigtryggsson, history has been written by men that walk was that Reykjavík is sprawling a flamboyant homosexual who had are reluctant enough to put gay men in with significant gay history sites, buried his heyday during Reykjavík’s more history books, let alone gay women. Or beneath decades of conservative history conservative era. This is a man I as Baldur explained: “Men in older times writing. have never heard of before, although hadn’t even thought of the notion that ‘But what is the gay history walk?’ he shared a fellowship with some two women could be together. you ask. Let me tell you. It is an annual of Iceland’s most famous artists at Probably every city in the world has sightseeing walk through Reykjavík that Unuhús. There he drank coffee with the a similar history. A hidden one, of people takes you through sites and locations likes Halldór Laxness and Þórbergur who weren’t accepted in their societies, significant to the history of gay culture Þórðarson, two of Iceland’s most beloved and had to find ways to live their lives and the gay rights struggle in Iceland. writers. Over drinks, Þórður used to knowing they were part of a group that Upon showing up at Ingólfsstræti, I tell the residents of Unuhús tales of his was not accepted. I learned afterwards was surprised to see how many people active sex life and his many partners, that some of the things mentioned in the had actually showed up for the walk. A who apparently span some of the most walk were historical gems due to how hundred and ten, to be exact. That’s a very important men and women in the unattainable they are. You wouldn’t be lot of people. Standing there amidst the history of Reykjavík. Elías Mar, a famous able to find most of these facts when crowd was a rather small man dressed in Icelandic poet, wrote his biography just merely browsing, you would have to civil attire, a cheap flower lei around his together but they are yet to be released, look deeper, conduct interviews, talk to neck, shouting out to the people that the as to this day his stories and their people. show was about to start. That was the revelations of well-known Icelanders and This gay walk wasn’t just walk’s conductor, professor of political their sexual preferences seem to cause entertaining; it was also sort of a science Baldur Þórhallsson. outrage. revelation. What I learned more and more was The walk also brought new that many buildings I had previously perspectives to old historical events that RAGNAR JÓN HRÓLFSSON not taken any notice of seem to have are rarely thought of as relevant to gay HÖRÐUR SVEINSSON Probably tonight

Probably the best **** in the world

Léttöl The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 13 — 2009 The Longest Poem in the World can be found at www.longestpoemintheworld.com 34

Poetry | Eiríkur Norðdahl Books | Review Books | Review

Children’s Reykjavík Children’s Reykjavík doesn’t tell us Trolls´ Cathedral whether some of the listings were paid Salka, 2008 for, but the recommendation for KFC Ólafur Gunnarsson in the restaurant listings sticks out as English translation by David McDuff By the time adults possibly related to the KFC advertise- have children, and Jill Burows. ment a few pages away. All guidebooks they’re often out JPV Publishers Reykjavík 2008. sit somewhere on a continuum from be- of touch with kid ing entirely promotional to entirely in- Trolls´Cathedral culture and need dependent. This book is perhaps a little (original Icelandic help figuring out too far towards the promotional side for title Tröllakirkja) is what to do all day with their three-foot my taste, although not so far to render the first part of an wonders. Even once things get going most of its recommendations untrust- acclaimed trilogy by reasonably well, it’s easy to get into a rut worthy. author Ólafur Gun- and forget about fun things that are just Overall, Children’s Reykjavík is narsson (the two other around the corner but missing from our a useful but flawed book. It could be being Potter´s Field and Winter Journey, mental map of town. a lot better. But it’s nice that it exists. respectively). The novel was published Parents need a regular stream of And rather than criticizing the English in 1992 and nominated for the Icelandic new ideas for their kids. These can translation, we should probably be glad Literary Prize the same year. The story come through word of mouth, seren- that there’s any English in the book takes place in 1950´s Reykjavík and tells dipity, the newspaper, or looking in the at all! I’d say that paying 2.990 kr. for the tale of architect Sigurbjörn Helgas- telephone book. They can even come it (2.691 kr. at Bóksala stúdenta) is a on who has high dreams for building a from a guidebook to things that kids worthwhile investment if you are fairly massive and imposing cathedral on top and parents can do. There are already new to town and want to spend a cou- of Skólavörðuholt (where Hallgrímskirk- guidebooks like this for many cities. ple hours socializing yourself into the ja church now stands) that will echo the Now there is one to Reykjavík, called world of children’s activities in Reykja- shapes of the Icelandic landscape. He Children’s Reykjavík / Reykjavík bar- Three hundred and fifty of the emptiness that envelopes our vík. starts his own construction firm along nanna. thousand, seven hundred lives. Children’s Reykjavík is already out with (and mostly financed by) his friend Children’s Reykjavík is small and and fourteen verses. Twenty The poem consists of what hun- of date, like any guidebook. Some of Guðbrandur, who is a master carpenter. thick, with over 400 nicely designed lines per verse, and every dreds of thousands (if not millions) of the places mentioned in the book have Their first project is for the first fran- spiral-bound pages, perhaps forty of line rhymes with the following one. people deemed most worthy to commu- already closed, like Hreyfiland and Salt- chised department store in Reykjavík. which are given over to advertising. The That’s how long Andrei Gheorghe’s nicate to the world and/or their friends félagið. So for those who know the city But things do not go according to plan, rest is divided into ten chapters that are poem is. It’s almost four times longer at a given moment (in real-time). And already, I wouldn’t recommend buying and Sigurbjörn soon finds his world labelled with colours and numbers but than the Mahabharata of ancient In- it rhymes, which somehow accentuates this book for reference. If you need, say, crumbling as his marriage starts failing, no titles, so to find a particular subject dia. Forty times longer than The Iliad the inherent nihilism of this deranged the opening hours or telephone num- his family life falls to pieces, the debts you have to hunt a bit in the table of con- and The Odyssey combined and twenty and disturbing poem. ber for Húsdýragarðurinn, it’s easier to pile up, and yet Sigurbjörn strives to tents or index. The content is bilingual, times longer than Dante’s Divine Com- I don’t blame twitter. The results look on the web. But if you’re just look- keep up appearances. with English usually on the left side edy. would probably have been the same (or ing for new ideas and inspiration, flip- The novel has received almost unani- of each opening and Icelandic on the It’s (appropriately) called The Lon- worse) if the material had been small- ping through this book is a fine idea. mously good reviews, both in Iceland right. gest Poem in the World and it’s com- talk. In person. Offline. And I’m not Like other guidebooks in the twenty- and abroad. It paints a very clear and There’s a lot of information in here. posed by aggregating real-time public sure my own statuses and/or small-talk first century, though, this one is caught interesting picture of Iceland´s and The book covers a really good range of twitter updates and selecting those would’ve been any more interesting. in a set of Internet-age paradoxes. Why Reykjavík´s growing pains as the topics, including some that can be hard that rhyme. Every day the poem grows Yet perhaps the sensation it evokes is pay to own a little brick of colourfully Icelandic society rapidly changed and to find out about. For example, the book longer by about 4000 verses. Some of false—not based in the reality it stems printed dead tree when you can not only the capital transformed from town to tells you where you can take your child it sounds inane (“Playing hide and seek from. Perhaps the world is not as empty read it at the library but also get the city. The story of Sigurbjörn is an epic for a haircut or family photograph, at the park. :) / Waiting on Heather and and meaningless as The Longest Poem same information, albeit unfiltered, on- tale of one man´s downfall, and his fate where you can hold a pre-packaged Mark!”) A lot of it sounds funny (“im in the World makes it seem. Perhaps line? And this book could be produced follows a universal theme that could birthday party, where to find art and hoping that its easy and i can finish it these lines of poetry — these bits of more cheaply and updated more regu- surely be translated and understood in music courses, and where kids can go quickly / They made porcupine love, so small-talk — are beautiful and filled larly, and could reach a larger audience any culture. to summer camp. stiff and stuck and prickly” and “Had a with meaning when experienced in more quickly, if it was available on the That said, I have to admit that although The book also includes a few pro- great gala evening and won lots of priz- their natural habitat. web for free. But then there might not Sigurbjörn’s fate is tragic, I did not feel files of semi-prominent Reykjavík par- es / And also simulating penis sizes”). The soldiers in Homer’s Odyssey be any revenue stream associated with for him very much. Perhaps it is one of ents, who describe how they spend their But most if it’s actually fantastically were never turned into swine. Not re- putting the information together. the traits of the epic that the narra- time with their kids in ways that range mundane. Boring. Stupid. People ally, I mean. We suspend disbelief and For now, the publishers of this book tive seems to hold the reader at arm’s from honest to slightly saccharine. waiting for their favourite TV show to allow Homer to take us there, and so stuck with the old style of embargoing length, creating distance between read- The book’s English translation and start. People twittering about God dur- the soldiers indeed turn into swine. their content, restricting it to those er and characters. But maybe it was just proofreading is imperfect—not enough ing the sermon. People announcing Gheorghe has in some way (perhaps) who pay for a copy that’s printed on because I found Sigurbjörn´s character to spoil the information, but enough to their hangovers like victories. People turned an innocent humanity into paper, and paying their bills with the to be self-centred, nasty and extremely make reading it a bit awkward (in one regurgitating sayings and Oscar Wilde swine, and just maybe that does not de- revenue from these sales as well as con- dislikeable. And the same goes for other great blooper, we’re told about an astrol- quotes. tract an ounce of worth from the poem ventional print advertising. This model characters in the novel. Even when ogy club which meets at the telescope in Gheorghe’s has called it a collective itself (at least if we allow for the artistry still works, or at least inspires hope in Sigurbjörn´s obnoxious eleven-year-old Seltjarnarnes.) Also, the English usu- consciousness. And in effect it is—it of Gheorghe’s poem to be purely con- prospective authors. But for how much son is sexually assaulted and beaten, I ally translates only a part of the origi- brews an essence of human thought ceptual—as formally it’s mostly horren- longer? When someone eventually fig- could have cared less. The only charac- nal Icelandic text, making the English and if you read it for too long you’ll be dous). This non-relation to reality might ures out how to fit books like Children’s ter I felt remotely sympathetic towards entries markedly shorter than their Ice- moved. You’ll get angry. You’ll feel ev- also make it the perfect representative Reykjavík into a workable web-based was Guðbrandur, who is truly a victim of landic counterparts across the page. ery ounce of wasted life like somebody for reality, in Georgia O’Keefe’s words: business model, it may free guidebook Sigurbjörn´s extravagant dreams. The reviews themselves are most was yanking your haemorrhoids with a “Nothing is less real than realism. It authors to focus more on providing But perhaps it is this distance from the helpful when they appear to reflect tire-iron. is only by selection, by elimination, by good content and less on the economics characters that gives the underlying the authors’ honest opinion. At other But perhaps this is humanity. Per- emphasis that we get at the real mean- of selling paper copies. narrative the universal appeal that it times, they have a bit of a promotional haps this is the essence of our being, ing of things.” - IAN WATSON has. Rather than being a tale of one making The Longest Poem in the And so regretfully I must admit that feel to it and use marketing language man’s ruin, Trolls´ Cathedral has wider World one of the most relevant pieces of (once again!) I cannot yet say whether or sometimes seemingly derived from the connotations that give it fable-like art around. One that mirrors (a part of) not there is meaning in the world. brochures of the places reviewed. For qualities. reality in a one to one correlation. One Oh, the nihilism! example, on page 188 we are told that that, if read in its entirety, would anni- “Adams Kids aims to provide you with a Bottom line: A vivid picture of Iceland´s hilate the little that may still be left of unique and rewarding shopping experi- growing pains in the 1950´s. ence that we’re sure you’ll never forget.” our souls and leave us completely aware - HILDUR KNÚTSDÓTTIR N NDIC DESIG A ICEL

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PAGE 6: We went through a great struggle between David and Goliath, where Goliath was the president of Iceland along with the tycoons; the people on the private jets and yachts. And they won. Professor Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson spouts a lot of Bible references in our cover story.

PAGE 29: I do not know what it is about Blönduós that brings on confusion. If I did, I could bottle it and sell it as bottled misunderstanding. I would become very rich indeed. Drummer-slash-crooner Sigtryggur Bald- ursson is confused by Blönduós

PAGE 16: Well. Everybody dies, except one person. You could just count the names on the poster and subtract one. It’s as basic as that, a genuine splatter flick. Júlíus Kemp has us all looking forward to the Reykjavík Whale Watching Massacre

PAGE 2: Is it a coincidence that only months prior to the attack, ALL major international media were bombarding people with cute childhood photos of Knut the white spawn of Berlin, the latest successor to the throne of Hell? We sure get some weird letters here at the Grapevine

PAGE 20: Art performances can be great, but in most people’s mind, they are just a perverted weak evilness made to burden people Performance artist-slash-Retrön guitarist Kolli has him some opinions

PAGE 14: Violence porn would have been too easy solution. I wanted readers to be able to identify with the victim. Clinical description of a rape do not tell you anything about the victim’s experiences. Finnish author and Reykjavík International Literary Festival attendee Sofi Oksanen has her say

Horse Riding City Sightseeing Explore Iceland

Whale Watching Golden Circle Blue Lagoon Car Rentals Book Tours here: Tourist Information Hilton Reykjavík Icalandair Hotel Radisson SAS Iða, 2nd ﬂoor Centre Nordica Loftleiðir Hotel Saga Aðalstræti 2, Suðurlandsbraut 2, Hlíðarfótur, Hagatorg, Lækjargata 2a, 101 Reykjavík 108 Reykjavík 101 Reykjavík 107 Reykjavík 101 Reykjavík Open from Open from Open from Open from Open from 8:30 am to 7:00 pm 8 am to 8 pm 8 am to 8 pm 8 am to 8 pm 10 am to 10 pm