© Lonely Planet Publications 218 www.lonelyplanet.com NEGERI SEMBILAN •• History 219 NEGERI SEMBILAN 0 20 km NEGERI SEMBILAN 0 12 miles To Jerantut Negeri Sembilan (68km) 2 PAHANG NEGERI SEMBILAN To Ipoh (195km) SELANGOR Teriang One of Malaysia’s most unique and tiniest states, Negeri Sembilan (Nine States) is the seat of KUALA LUMPUR the Minangkabau people, who originally settled here from Sumatra in the 15th century. To Serting ai g some extent, Minangkabau culture still incorporates adat perpatih, a traditional matrilineal n B19 u S system of inheritance and communal village administration unique to Negeri Sembilan, N32 though the custom has weakened. Fortunately, the Minangkabau’s fiery cooking style has Serdang Kajang Linggi 9 Tasik Titi Bera lost little of its potency. 10 1 86 Semenyih Negeri Sembilan is easily overlooked by travellers darting to Peninsular Malaysia’s hot Kuala Klawang Sungai Kampung 11 Sungai spots. The pedestrian state capital, Seremban, is a slow starter with few notable sights be- Kampung Parit Tinggi To Kuantan Langkap (125km) yond the Taman Seni Budaya (Arts & Cultural Park). But within its orbit lie regions worth Mokek Mantin Bahau exploring for evidence of Minangkabau culture and its distinctive architecture. A short hop Pantai Muar Palong from Seremban, the tranquil old royal town of Sri Menanti is the home of the noble Istana Kuala Lumpur 1 Sungai International Terachi Airport (KLIA) Seremban 51 Kuala Lama (Old Palace), a work of simply top-drawer craftsmanship. Pilah Sepang Sri Menanti From Seremban, drift westwards to Port Dickson (PD), a long curve of sand, restaurants Lebuhraya Pedas 5 and hotels. It may not be Malaysia’s premier stretch of shoreline, but PD is a pleasant ref- E29 Su Rembau n uge from congested Kuala Lumpur (KL) and its vistas are scenic enough for a day or two Lukut gai (Tollway) 9 Lukut Fort Gemas paddling in the shallows. 1 Port Dickson Lin gai JOHOR Teluk Tampin Kemang Pengkalan Cape Rachado Kempas Lubok Segamat Forest Reserve China E2 HIGHLIGHTS Tanjung Tuan Blue Lagoon Lighthouse Alor (Cape Rachado) Masjid Gajah Kampung Kuala Tanah MELAKA Admiring the distinctive culture and archi- Linggi Durian tecture ( p220 ) of the Minangkabau people, Selat Melaka Tunggal (Strait of Melaka) Tanjung Jasin around Seremban Bidara 19 To Johor Bahru (175km) Ambling around sleepy Sri Menanti and marvelling at the impeccable woodwork of the grand Istana Lama ( p223 ) History of Negeri Sembilan in 1773 by the undang During the Melaka sultanate of the 15th (territorial chiefs). Out of this initial union Giving in to the unhurried charms of Kuala century, many Minangkabau people from emerged a loose confederation of nine luak Pilah ( p223 ) Sumatra settled here. They initially lived (fiefdoms), although there is some debate Paddling at Port Dickson and exploring under the protection of the rulers of Melaka, about the confederation’s exact make-up. Kuala Pilah the Cape Rachado Forest Reserve ( p224 ), Seremban but with the fall of Melaka to the Portu- The royal capital of Negeri Sembilan was capped by the old Tanjung Tuan lighthouse Sri Menanti guese, the Minangkabau sought protection established at Sri Menanti, and Raja Mele- ( p224 ) from the sultans of neighbouring Johor. war, though essentially powerless, indulged Unwinding with a few lagoon-side nights at With the rising power of the Bugis (a himself here. Cape Rachado seafaring group of warrior-like Malay set- The state serves as a useful escape route the Corus Paradise Resort ( p225 ) in Port Forest Reserve Dickson tlers from Macassar – Ujung Padang – in into Peninsular Malaysia’s supra-urban Celebes) in Selangor, the Minangkabau landscapes, where small communities carry Chomping your way through the night mar- felt increasingly insecure, so they turned on irrespective of Kuala Lumpur’s (KL’s) ket while chin-wagging with locals at Kuala back to the royal house of Sumatra for urban charisma to the north. Diminutive Pilah ( p223 ) protection. Raja Melewar, a Minangkabau perhaps, but with that comes the opportu- prince from Sumatra, was appointed the nity to recharge, settle down to an unhur- TELEPHONE CODE: 06 POPULATION: 980,678 AREA: 6645 SQ KM first yang dipertuan besar (head of state) ried agenda and adjust to the local tempo. 220 NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Seremban www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Seremban 221 NEGERI SEMBILAN 0 400 m Like Selangor to the north, Negeri Sem- Chinese personality, from Canto-pop SEREMBAN 0 0.2 miles bilan was rich in tin, and so for much of pounding from store speakers to the elegant the 19th century it suffered the unrest and Chinese characters garlanding shopfronts. ACB D Jln Tun Doktor Ismail political instability motivated by greed. Minangkabau-style buffalo-horn roofs may INFORMATIONDato King George V School................10 B4 After Raja Melewar’s death, the title of yang adorn many recent buildings, such as the 19 Cyber Café..............................(see 25) Lake Gardens.............................11 C3 HSBC...........................................Kel 1 A2 Liesheng Temple........................12 A1 NEGERI SEMBILAN ana dipertuan was taken on by a succession of city hall, but the only real access point to 1 Masjid Minas Computer Centre...............2 A2 Masjid Negeri.............................13 B3 Jamek Moneychager...............................Ma'a 3 B2 State Library...............................14 B2 Sumatran chiefs, until a series of protracted Minangkabau culture is at the Muzium OCBC..........................................4 A2 Wesley Methodist Church..........15 A3 mor 12 Jln Campbell nan tin-related wars from 1824–32 led to the Negeri, a component of the Taman Seni Jln Kapitan Tam Yeong Ad Sembilan Internet Library.............5 A3 Jln Dr Jln Lt SLEEPING severance of political ties with Sumatra. Budaya on the outskirts of town. Samuel SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Allson Klana Resort....................16 D3 The civil disturbances and interstate ri- Heading east to the hills bordering the Church of the Visitation................6 B2 Carlton Star Hotel......................17 A3 Jln Dato Abdul Dewan Undangan Negeri.............7 B2 Oriental Hotel............................18 A2 valry continued into the second half of the city centre, Seremban develops a different Hutan Rekreasi Entrance..............8 D3 Sun Lun Yik Hotel......................19 A1 19th century, particularly in the northern persona, with the Lake Gardens affording Istana Besar..................................9 B2 EATING Jln state of Sungai Ujong. In the 1880s the Brit- a low-key respite from the traffic. Jln Bukit Jln Dr Krishnan 9 Tuan Haji Blossom Court..........................(see 16) ὈὈὈὈὈ22 Food Stalls..................................20 B4 ish gradually intervened by increasing their 7 Hawker Centre...........................21 A3 Jln Dato Abdul Kadir 2 Jln Tuanku Munawir Standard influence in the area, and the territories of Information Jln Dato Abdul Rahman Chartered Jln Dato Abdul Malek Kam Kee Vegetarian Restaurant..22 B2 Sri Menanti, Tampin, Rembau and Jelebu Cyber Café (Shop LG 25, ground fl, Terminal 1 Shopping Bank Jln Yam Tuan 3 Pasar Malam..............................23 A2 2 Restoran Negeri..........................24 B2 23 Jln Lee Sam were consolidated into a new confederacy Centre, Jln Lintang; per hr RM3) Jln Tuanku1 Hassan 6 14 Terminal 1 Shopping Centre......25 A3 controlled by a British Resident. In 1895 HSBC (50-52 Jln Dato Bandar Tungaal) Has a 24-hour ATM. Yuri..........................................(see 16) Sungai Ujong was added to the union, and Minas Computer Centre (1st fl, 6 Jln Dato Lee Fong 18 Jln Dato4 Lee Fong Yee 24 8 these five districts now make up the bulk Yee; per hr RM3.50) 21 ὈὈὈὈὈ 15 Jln Dato Sheikh Ahmad of the modern state of Negeri Sembilan, Moneychanger (64 Jln Yam Tuan) Located north of the Lake 5 17 City Gardens with an area of 6643 sq km. Becoming Catholic Church. Jln Dato Bandar Tunggal Hall 11 25 Maybank 13 part of the Federation of Malaya in 1948, OCBC (cnr Jln Dato Lee Fong Yee & Jln Dato Bandar Tung- Jln Lintang 3 Jln Sungai Recreation the largely agricultural state has increas- gal) Has a 24-hour ATM. Ujong Pond Ground Jln Dato Hamzah ingly diversified its economy, with special Sembilan Internet Library (per hr RM3; h24hr) To Seri Jln Malaysia Sing emphasis on developing its manufacturing Noisy gaming hall; east of the Carlton Star Hotel ( p222 ). Hotel (1km) 16 Jln Berhala kat ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Jln Tetamu ulu Jln Cantik Keliling Jln Pengh base. To Lebuhraya Tollway (2.6km); Muzium Negeri (3km); Sights Taman Seni Budaya (3km); Rumah Negeri Sembilan (3km); Jln Taman Bunga Climate ARCHITECTURE Kuala Lumpur (64km) The temperature in Negeri Sembilan ranges Its wonderful multiple roof-points a strik- 10 from 21°C to 33°C and average humidity ing landmark for central Seremban, the Seremban exceeds 82%. There is rain through the Dewan Undangan Negeri (State Secretariat Bldg; Sungai Jln Tuanku Antah Jln Za'aba 4 ὈὈὈὈὈ20 year, with September to November the wet- btwn Jln Dato Abdul Kadir & Jln Dato Abdul Malek) is test months. a fine melding of modern and traditional Temiang architecture opposite the Istana Besar (Jln Jln Medan Rahang Getting There & Away Bukit; hclosed to the public), home of the sul- To Sri Menanti (26km); The Lebuhraya (North–South Hwy), con- tan of Negeri Sembilan. Directly south and Kuala Pilah (38km) necting Johor Bahru and Kuala Lumpur, once the offices of the colonial administra- is the major road through the state. To get tion, the neoclassical (1912) State Library (off Its roof decorated with dragons, the main MUZIUM NEGERI to Negeri Sembilan from KL, see p222 ; for Jln Dato Hamzah), west of the Lake Gardens, altar of the Liesheng Temple (Jln Dr Samuel; hday- The Muzium Negeri (State Museum; Jln Sungai Ujong; interstate buses see p222 and p226 . is Seremban’s most imposing colonial light hr) is dedicated to three Taoist idols, admission free; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, 8.15am- building. chief among which is Guandi (the God of 1pm Thu, 10am-12.15pm & 2.45-6pm Fri), built in the SEREMBAN Further south, the nine pillars of Masjid War).