paddling intheshallows. uge fromcongested KualaLumpur (KL)anditsvistasare scenic enoughforadayortwo and hotels. ItmaynotbeMalaysia’spremier stretch ofshoreline, butPDisapleasantref- Lama (OldPalace), aworkofsimplytop-drawercraftsmanship. from , thetranquiloldroyal townofSriMenantiisthehomenobleIstana culture anditsdistinctive architecture.exploring forevidenceofMinangkabau hop Ashort yond theTaman &Cultural SeniBudaya(Arts Park). Butwithinitsorbitlieregions worth spots. The pedestrianstate capital,Seremban, withfew isaslowstarter notablesightsbe- lost littleofitspotency. stylehas fierycooking theMinangkabau’s Fortunately, though thecustomhasweakened. system ofinheritanceandcommunalvillageadministrationuniquetoNegeriSembilan, culture stillincorporates some extent, Minangkabau people,whooriginally settledhere fromSumatra inthe15thcentury.To the Minangkabau One ofMalaysia’smostuniqueandtinieststates, NegeriSembilan(NineStates) isthe seatof Sembilan Negeri 218 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ From Seremban, drift westwards to (PD), a long curve ofsand,restaurants Dickson(PD),alongcurve From Seremban, driftwestwardsto Port Negeri Sembilaniseasilyoverlooked toPeninsular bytravellers darting ’shot

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS „ „ TELEPHONE CODE: 06 Chompingyour waythroughthe nightmar- Unwindingwithafew lagoon-side nightsat Paddling Dickson andexploring atPort Giving intotheunhurriedcharmsofKuala Ambling aroundsleepySriMenantiand Admiring thedistinctive culture andarchi- Pilah while chin-waggingket with localsat Dickson the ( p224) capped bytheold lighthouse the (p223) Pilah the grand atthe impeccablewoodworkofmarvelling around Seremban tecture ( p220 people, ) ofthe Minangkabau Corus Paradise Resort Cape Rachado Forest Reserve (p224), ( p223) (p223) Istana Lama ( p225 ) in Port Port in ( p225) „ POPULATION: 980,678 Kuala

Forest Reserve Cape Rachado adat perpatih,atraditionalmatrilineal Seremban „

AREA: 6645SQ KM Sri Menanti www.lonelyplanet.com first prince fromSumatra, wasappointed the protection. Melewar, Raja aMinangkabau ofback to the royalhouse Sumatrafor felt increasingly insecure, so theyturned theMinangkabau inSelangor, Celebes) tlers fromMacassar –Ujung Padang –in groupof warrior-likeseafaring Malay set- offrom thesultans neighbouring . protection theMinangkabau sought guese, but withthefall of Melaka tothePortu- under theprotection of therulers of Melaka, here.Sumatra settled Theyinitiallylived century, manyMinangkabau peoplefrom During theMelaka sultanateof the15th History History Airport (KLIA) To (195km) International NEGERI SEMBILAN With therising power of the Bugis(a Sepang Port Dickson (Strait ofMelaka) yang dipertuan besar yang dipertuan Selat Melaka (Cape Rachado) Forest Reserve Cape Rachado LUMPUR Tanjung Tuan Serdang KUALA Lighthouse 2 5 Kemang Teluk 1 Kampung Kuala Blue Lagoon Lukut Fort Semenyih B19 E29

1

Pengkalan

Kempas

Su

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gai Sungai

Lebuhraya Linggi gai (head of state)

Tanjung

Bidara (Tollway) Lubok N32 Terachi Sri Menanti China Titi Kampung Langkap 86 E2 Gajah Alor Mokek 19 51 Tunggal Durian of in1773bythe Negeri Sembilan ried agenda and adjust tothe localtempo. nity to recharge, down toan unhur- settle perhaps, to charisma urban on irrespective of Kuala Lumpur’s(KL’s) landscapes, where small communitiescarry into ’s supra-urban here.himself powerless,indulged essentially war, though atSriMenanti,established Mele- and Raja of was The royalcapital Negeri Sembilan about the confederation’s exactmake-up. there(fiefdoms), although issomedebate emerged confederation aloose of nine (territorial chiefs). Outof thisinitialunion Parit Tinggi 9 9 Kampung Kuala Bahru (175km) Pilah The state serves as a useful escaperoute asauseful The stateserves To Johor Sungai

but with that comes theopportu- that but with Muar 10 NEGERI SEMBILAN••History MELAKA 1 Teriang

Sun To ga (68km)

the north. Diminutivethe north. i

S 0 0 e r

t

i

ng 11 JOHOR

Tasik Bera Sungai

undang Segamat Palong To 12 miles 20 km (125km) luak 219

NEGERI SEMBILAN SEMBILAN NEGERI NEGERI SEMBILAN interstate buses see interstate see buses p222 and p226 fromKL,see to Negeri Sembilan . p222 ; for is themajor thestate. roadthrough Toget andKualaLumpur,necting (North–SouthHwy),con- The Lebuhraya &Away There Getting test months. toNovemberyear, withSeptember thewet- 82%.Thereexceeds the israinthrough from 21°Cto33°Candaverage humidity The temperature ranges inNegeri Sembilan Climate 220 Mandarin, hasa pronounced Seremban the cityin passing. here,long stays andmost travellers take in ity, but there islittletolure visitors into tunistic vegetation, exudeadecayingnobil- abandoned orgreen withmossandoppor- somegutted andlonial-era shophouses, 64km southeast of KL.Itscrumbling co- emban isthelow-key amere statecapital, overshotEasily en route elsewhere, Ser- % SEREMBAN After Melewar’s Raja death,thetitleof motivatedpolitical instability bygreed. the 19thcenturyitsuffered theunrest and bilan wasrich intin,andsoformuch of base. itsmanufacturingemphasis ondeveloping ingly diversified itseconomy,withspecial the largely agriculturalstatehasincreas- part of theFederation of Malaya in1948, with anarea of 6643sqkm.Becoming of themodernstateof Negeri Sembilan, fivethese districtsnowmake upthebulk Sungai Ujong wasaddedtotheunion,and controlled byaBritish Resident.In1895 were consolidated intoanewconfederacy Sri Menanti, Tampin, Rembauand Jelebu influence inthearea, andtheterritories of byincreasing theirish graduallyintervened state of SungaiUjong. Inthe1880sBrit- 19th century,particularlyinthenorthern half ofvalry continuedintothesecond the ofseverance politicaltieswithSumatra. tin-related wars from1824–32ledtothe ofSumatran chiefs, untilaseries protracted dipertuan Poetically named Furong (Hibiscus) in Poetically Like Selangor tothenorth, NegeriLike Sem- Selangor The civildisturbancesandinterstate ri- 06 NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Seremban NEGERI SEMBILAN••Seremban was taken onbyasuccessionof yang a low-key respite fromthetraffic. persona, Gardensaffording withtheLake city centre, adifferent develops Seremban Budaya ontheoutskirtsof town. Negeri, acomponentof theTaman Seni Minangkabau culture isattheMuzium city hall,buttheonlyreal access pointto adorn manyrecent buildings,such asthe roofsMinangkabau-style buffalo-horn may charactersChinese garlandingshopfronts. pounding fromstore speakers totheelegant personality,Chinese fromCanto-pop Yee; perhrRM3.50) King George V School George King colonial school elite, forSeremban’s the Church oftheVisitation into thecool,white interior of theCatholic with colonialfeatures. fromthe heat Flee nine originalstates of Negeri Sembilan. Negeri building. mostimposingcolonialis Seremban’s . Dato Sheikh Ahmad) Dato Sheikh Jln DatoHamzah) Dewan UndanganNegeri theing landmarkforcentralSeremban, astrik- Its wonderfulmultipleroof-points ARCHITECTURE Sights Library Internet Sembilan OCBC Moneychanger Centre Computer Minas HSBC Cyber Café Information gal) Hasa24-hourATM. as a high school.as a high Centre, JlnLintang;perhrRM3) or themore sober Mass inEnglishisheldonSunday at9am; tion, theneoclassical(1912) once theofficesof thecolonialadministra- of Directlytan Negeri southand Sembilan. &JlnDatoAbdulMalek) btwn JlnDatoAbdulKadir architecture opposite the a finemeldingof modernandtraditional Bukit; Bukit; Noisy gaminghall;eastoftheCarltonStarHotel( p222 ). Heading tothehillsbordering east Seremban’s centraldistricts areSeremban’s sprinkled Further south,theninepillars of (cnrJlnDatoLee FongYee &JlnDatoBandarTung- (50-52JlnDatoBandarTungaal) Hasa24-hourATM. h (State Mosque; Jln Dato Hamzah) (State Mosque;JlnDato Hamzah) closed tothepublic) (Shop LG25,groundfl,Terminal 1Shopping (64JlnYam Tuan) ofthe Locatednorth , westof Gardens, theLake , builtin 1920.Thepremier Wesley (Jln Za’aba) (Jln (1stfl,6JlnDatoLee Fong

(85a JlnYam Tuan) (perhrRM3; www.lonelyplanet.com , homeof thesul- (State Secretariat Bldg;(State Secretariat Methodist Church Methodist still functions State Library State represent the h 24hr) where Masjid Masjid

(Jln (Jln is (Jln (Jln (off some olddrums. dess of Compassion)isalsohere, aswell ofAn effigy Guanyin (theBuddhistGod- willbeanswered’. mean‘Your needs altar charactersWar). TheChinese above the chief amongwhich isGuandi(theGodof www.lonelyplanet.com government quarters. colonial district that nowmostly houses are attheedge of thegreen andtranquil The gardenscouples go intheevenings. andthe place wheretion reserve courting GardensareThe quaintLake recrea- atame LAKE GARDENS light hr) altar ofaltar the LieshengTemple Hotel (1km) Malaysia To Seri Kuala Lumpur(64km) Rumah NegeriSembilan(3km); Taman SeniBudaya(3km); Muzium Negeri(3km); To LebuhrayaTollway(2.6km); 23 21 4 1 3 2

Jln Lintang SEREMBAN

Its roof decorated with dragons,themain Sam Lee Jln 15

Ujong

Jln Sungai Jln

18 Munawir Tuanku Jln

25 Jln Tun Doktor Ismail Doktor Tun Jln is dedicated tothree Taoist idols,

Jln Dato Abdul Rahman Jln Dr Krishnan

Jln Tuanku Hassan Sungai

Jln Dato Sheikh Ahmad Temiang Jln Dato Lee Fong Yee 19 AC 1 17

4

Jamek Masjid Pond Jln Kapitan Tam Yeong Tam Kapitan Jln Seremban Chartered 5 Standard

Bank Jln Dato Bandar Tunggal Bandar Dato Jln 12 ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ

2 Recreation Maybank

Ground Jln Campbell Jln

Samuel Jln Dr Jln Berhala Tuan Yam Jln City Hall 24

Jln Dato Abdul Malek22 (Jln DrSamuel; (Jln 3

20

6 Abdul Dato Jln Jln Tuanku Antah Tuanku Jln Jln Dato Abdul Kadir Abdul Dato Jln

Jln Lt

Ad B

nan 7 h Bukit Jln 13 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Istana Besar...... Hutan RekreasiEntrance...... Dewan UndanganNegeri...... Sembilan InternetLibrary...... OCBC...... Moneychager...... HSBC...... Cyber Café...... (see25) Jln Taman Bunga Jln Dato Hamzah B2 Church oftheVisitation...... A2 Minas ComputerCentre...... day-

14 9 Jln Za'aba Jln To SriMenanti(26km); 10 Gardens Kuala Pilah(38km)

Lake

11

Dato

Jln Tetamu Kel 8.15am-1pm Thu,10am-12.15pm &2.45-6pmFri) Ujong; admissionfree; The MUZIUM NEGERI 1pm Thu,10am-12.15pm&2.45-6pmFri) admission free; the communist leaders. isinside Themuseum with gruesome post-capture portraitsof cover the Emergency (see p37 ), complete handicrafts andhistorical exhibits.Displays style of aMinangkabau palace,displays the buffalo horn. the buffalo on stylebased ing the hallmark curved-roof withashingle rooftraditional house show- is the ana Ma'a

Nearby and also on the museum grounds Nearby and alsoonthemuseum Taman Budaya Seni mor

Muzium Negeri Negeri Muzium

Jln

Rumah Negeri Sembilan Negeri Rumah

Jln

Tuan NEGERI SEMBILAN••Seremban Sing

h kat Haji 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 D3 B2 A3 A2 B2 A2

10am-6pm Tue, Wed,Sat&Sun,8.15am- 0 0 Jln Medan Medan Jln h

Yuri...... (see 16) Terminal 1ShoppingCentre...... Restoran Negeri...... Pasar Malam...... Hawker Centre...... Food Stalls...... Blossom Court...... (see16) Sun LunYikHotel...... Oriental Hotel...... Carlton StarHotel...... Allson KlanaResort...... Wesley MethodistChurch...... State Library...... Masjid Negeri...... Liesheng Temple...... Lake Gardens...... King GeorgeVSchool...... EATING SLEEPING a e eeainRsarn. B2 Kam KeeVegetarianRestaurant.. Jln (State Museum; Jln Sungai Ujong; JlnSungaiUjong; (State Museum;

Kel 10am-6pm Tue, Wed,Sat& Sun, (Arts &Cultural Park; JlnSungai (Arts il ing , alessornate , built in the , builtinthe D

Jln Pengh 0.2 miles 8

. ulu 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 400 m

16 Cantik

A3 B2 A2 A3 B4 A1 A2 A3 D3 A3 B2 B3 A1 C3 B4 221 NEGERI SEMBILAN SEMBILAN NEGERI NEGERI SEMBILAN Cantik; s/dRM340/360,poolsideRM360/380; rooms don’thave windows). andair-con (but noteshower, TV thatsome town centre rooms,allwith hassatisfactory ers, thismodesthotel onthefringes of the 222 sage andkaraoke facilities. themselves of thesteammas- bath,sauna, in thecentre of town,andguestscanavail the timeof writing,thissix-storey hotel is s/d RM50/60; r RM120; Ahmad; s/dRM84/110; accommodation if staying inSeremban. accommodation ifstaying toaimformidrangevisable andtop-end have charted It’smore aroundthose. ad- where wantonlocalsinfest reception; we in thecentre of townare sordidbordellos of thecheap flophousesSeveral Chinese only aboutanhourawaybybusortrain. beach Melaka atPortDicksonandeven are overnightto stay asKL,the inSeremban 20 minutes away,there isnoreal need hereconsider staying astheairportisonly Lumpur International Airport(KLIA) may somevisitorsAlthough arrivingatKuala Sleeping coction, duein partto generous additions of Minangkabau-style cooking is afierycon- Eating a opt forthepriciertwins). singles withfancomewithoutshower(so downside isthatit’sabove arestaurant and and centrallylocated budget hotel. The orienteering) andachildren’s playroom. tivities (fromarchery towall-climbingand and offerstaurants ahostof adventure ac- and Yuri(Japanese) res-Court (Chinese) hotel, theresort hasthe reputable Blossom turing thefacilities of aninternational-class Ensconced invast groundsandbroadlyfea- on ahilltotheeast of Gardens. theLake pool, thisprestigious four-star hotel isset With Malaysia’s largest lagoon-shaped Muzium Negeri, isinconvenient. 1km westof ontheroadto thebusstation are adequately furnished.Thelocation, midrangestandard comfort androoms Malaysiamulaic, buttheSeri provides Carlton Star Hotel Star Hotel Carlton Seri Malaysia Malaysia Seri Oriental Hotel Hotel Oriental Hotel Sun LunYik Allson KlanaResort ) Roomsare OKinthiswell-looked after NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Seremban NEGERI SEMBILAN••Seremban a a ) Thisnationwidechain isfor- ) With friendly Chinese own- WithfriendlyChinese (11 JlnTuanku s/twRM35/45; Munawir; ( % a (

% ( % 764 4181;JlnSungaiUjong;

) ( Underrenovation at 763 5735;19JlnTun DrIsmail; % 762 5336; 47 Jln Dato Sheikh 762 5336;47JlnDatoSheikh 762 7888;JlnPenghulu as )

and withricecooked incoconutmilk) served milk), (fish, meatorvegetables cooked incoconut dishes worthatryincludemasaklemak chili padi(atinyfirebomb of achilli). Local ket; JlnLee Sam) ket; Resort, JlnPenghulu Cantik;mealsRM40) Resort, Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2.30pmSun) JlnPenghulu Cantik;mealsRM30; Klana Resort, a straw. cious icedsoyamilk (RM1)–justpopin vendors on the streetsbagsof selling deli- 45 minutes). (RM7, last train around 10pm, Seremban and depart frequently KLSentral between muter trains, partof KL’scity railnetwork, rail line from KLtoSingapore. KTM Ko- liesonthemain north–southSeremban &Away There Getting and attheupstairs (onJlnTuankuAntah), the trainstation Minangkabau fare, canbefoundsouth of dishes (mealsaroundRM8)andsome spicy mostly Malay serving morning tonight), (generallyFunctional foodstalls openfrom QUICK EATS surrounds. dishes insmart,albeitratheruninspiring, meals (RM28)aswellotherCantonese populardimsum restaurantnese serves meals RM8).C Negeri Restoran RESTAURANTS Jln Yam Tuan; mealsRM10) The bustlingSaturday but recommended food. 2.30pm), withratherfadedmid-’90s décor (RM43,from11.30amto bar, Sundaybuffet rooms,teppanyaki counter,tatami sushi with achoice of fillingrotiandcurries. other wholesome Cantonese fare.other wholesomeCantonese dim sum;three forRM1),mockmeatand shaomai vegie springrolls(RM1),doufu(tofu) dishes, fromthecolossal options intown,choose Shopping Centre occupy thegroundfloorof the Yuri Yuri Kam Kee Vegetarian Restaurant Restaurant Vegetarian Kee Kam Blossom Court Blossom Court Plentiful fast-food and satay restaurantsPlentiful fast-food andsatay dendeng balado (thick, dry meat curry usually rendang (thick,drymeatcurryusually ( % Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (a kindof meatorshrimp dumpling entrally located Muslimrestaurant 762 7888 ext 3555; Lobby level, AllsonKlana 3555;Lobbylevel, 762 7888ext hasplentyof foodstalls. ( % ( % (Jln Lintang) (Jln 767 1190; 13 Jln Dato Sheikh Ahmad; Ahmad; 767 1190;13JlnDatoSheikh Oneof meat-free several 762 8888 ext 3333;1stfl,Allson 762 8888ext centre hawker (beef withchilli). (beef This celebrated Chi- pasar malam www.lonelyplanet.com . Lookoutfor ( Four private % (Jln Lee Sam) (Jln Terminal 1 763 5593; 60 763 5593;60 (night mar- h lunch .

Komputer Internet Komputer ban (RM2.10). change toaKTM Komuter traintoSerem- a busfromtheairporttoNilai(RM2)and Melaka (RM90)andSriMenanti (RM30). tions, egPortDickson muster taxis upstairs fordestina- distance counter terminal hasaleft-luggage Dickson viaLukut(RM3,onehour).The (RM30.50, sixhours). Bus67runstoPort 15minutes)every andKualaTerengganu six hours),KualaPilah(RM3.50,onehour, 1½ hours, hour),Kuantan every five hours, twoperday),Melaka (RM5.30, 20minutes),every (RM22.20, departures toKL(RM4.70,30minutes, the busterminal onJlnSungaiUjong include tiled Minangkabau roof. 1930s, thelater addition features ablue- open to the public).Originally builtinthe ace of of (not thesultan Negeri Sembilan Gardens isIstanaBesar attheT-junction.to thepolicestation SEREMBAN TOKUALA PILAH www.lonelyplanet.com dwellings andscampering chickens. by green jungle hills, fringed withsimple valleysurroundednestles inahighland disengagedhamletbird songthesleepy, Swathed inasilenceonlyinterrupted by Minangkabau immigrantsfrom Sumatra. firstovercapital, settled 400years agoby Pilahroad,istheoldroyal Seremban–Kuala Tidy andplacid Sri Menanti, 6kmoffthe % Menanti Sri Menanti. Lookoutfor culture aroundtheoldroyaltownof Sri penetrating theheartlandof Minangkabau thehillstotownofthrough KualaPilah, theroadmeanders fromSeremban, East and SriMenanti itself. the villages furthernorth,including asdo particularly finetraditionalhouses, at theturn-offtoSriMenanti, hassome The village of placed bymore corrugated utilitarian iron. thatch ofroofs re- buffalo-horn hasbeen thetraditional along themainroad,though bag perhr80sen/RM1.50; To reach fromKLIA,first Seremban take Just pastSriMenanti’s own tinyLake There’s internet accessat Transnasional buses 06 Terachi , 27kmfromSeremban

(per hrRM3; (

% h (RM35), KL (RM70), (RM35), KL(RM70), , theimpressive pal- 763 8798) Minangkabau houses Minangkabau 7.30am-9pm) h 9am-11pm) Kuntum Indah Kuntum Indah leaving from leaving from . Long- (RM25, (RM25, (small/big Pantai, next NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Seremban toKualaPilah NEGERI SEMBILAN••Seremban

0577; dm/dRM15/77,chaletRM108-126; 7pm) h Center puter Seremban. and endowedwith more personality than Kuala Pilahismoreshophouses, attractive Colourfully decorated painted withbrightly ships inthisstrongly Minangkabauregion. east of isoneof Seremban, themaintown- valley town40km Kuala Pilah,apleasant % Kuala Pilah (Sansheng Temple; JlnDatoUndang ) then a taxi (returnthen ataxi aroundRM20). take abusto Kuala Pilah(RM3.50)and themselves of theswimmingpoolforRM5. Saturday andSunday.Nonguests can avail byRM10orso on Note thatroompricesrise rooms,including14-bed maintained dorms. hasreasonably well- Lama, next toIstana upstairs. removenow amuseum; ifgoing yourshoes Kanthaswamy Kanthaswamy nificent one representing thelegendary 99 eachon 99pillars, manyof themcarved, wars. Thestructure offtheground israised British soldiers duringtheSungaiUjong olderpalacethatwasrazedby for aneven nails in1908asatemporary replacement ofpalace wasfashionedwithouttheuse Menanti. Arranged over fourfloors, the hardwood palaceisthecentrepiece of Sri by master craftsmen,thebeautifulblack sia, isimmediately insidethegates. man, thefirst kingof independentMalay- prominent grave of TuankuAbdul Rah- tinctive Victorian/Moorish pavilion. The which hasadis- (RoyalCemetery), Di Raja pound nexttothemosqueis views over thegardens. royal regalia. Climbtothetopfloorfor aswellkrisweaponryand dining table playroom, alarge diningroomandhuge bedchambers,and queen’s thechildren’s theking (clan) warriors. Insideyoucansee with deities.The intriguing Internet accesscanbe foundatthe To reach SriMenanti fromSeremban, Its few temples of note include the isthemag- Besar Just beyondIstana The two-storey towardsthemainroadin com- Back 06 10am-6pm Sat-Thu, 10am-12.15pm&2.45-6pmFri) , overflowing with colourandarrayed

Exuding regal anddesigned Exuding poise Istana Lama (73 JlnLister;perhrRM3) (Jln Melang; Melang; (Jln Sri Menanti Resort Resort Menanti Sri

(Old Palace; admissionfree; h main prayer hall Sansheng Gong hasa skilfully . as Makam ( Kuil Sri Kuil Sri %

luak Com- 6.30- 223 497

)

, ,

NEGERI SEMBILAN SEMBILAN NEGERI NEGERI SEMBILAN Tuan) The tiful signsaroundtownleadtothe hotel. by thesonorous6amcalltoprayer). Plen- and smallbalcony(butyoumayget woken floors, air-con, kettle, coffee minute TVs, and recently refurbished doubleswith tiled d/chalet RM50/95) Chinese hotels. TheDesaInn Chinese cheapbut ifyoudo,KualaPilahhasseveral Resident (1889–97)of Negeri Sembilan. dedicated toMartin Lister, thefirst British decorativeelaborate Chinese-style archway temple.Chinese Opposite thetemple isan fortheconstruction ofplot couldbeused a tion from1897theResidentthatthis the outsidewallcommemorates aninstruc- and wornfrescoes onthewall.Aplaque alongthefrontof thetemple lous carvings Guandi (Godof War);there are marvel- fierce-looking beardedidolinthecentre is cup of tea andtake youonasmalltour. The folkatthetemple mayofferChinese youa Guangxu, hangingjustinsidethedoor. The boat,fromthetimeof Qingemperor carved 224 Jln Dato Abdul Manap; d/fRM55/77; Jln DatoAbdulManap; Kuala Pilah, thebusstation 15minutes).(RM3.50, onehour, every In Indian aromas. burgers; RM1) andamedleyof Malay and burgers;daging (beef RM1.50), burger (from 35sen), the fragranceof satay 6pm dailywhenthe airbecomesheavy with Seremban (RM3.50). To reachSeremban Melaka, you (RM16.90) and (RM18.50), Kuantan Bahru departforJohor the Sansheng Gong.Buses hidden away behindthe archway opposite from indifferent service. There’s noreason toget strandedhere, There are regular fromSeremban buses For dinner,thelively China andMelaka. and thegravesite distance outsidetown,inthedirection Kempas, ofLubok isashort kalan by residents whobelieved thestoneshadpowertospontaneouslygrowtaller. butmanymonoliths evolvedoriginally intovillageshrines,worshipped usedasgrave-markers, but similarpairs(nottrios)ofmonolithshave beenfoundelsewhere. Scholarsthinktheywere isquitemegalithic stonesknownasthe‘sword’,‘spoon’and‘rudder’.No-one sure oftheirpurpose, about 100mofftheroad.This localherodied in1467andbesidehisgrave standthree 2m-high Pengkalan signindicates Kempas’ thegravetown a‘KompleksSejarah of About 23kmeastofCapeisthesmalltown Rachado GRAVE REMINDERS , near Desa Inn,kicksoffataround, nearDesa Rest House Rest NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Port Dickson NEGERI SEMBILAN••Port The buses that run along the coast hourly between Port Dickson and Melaka travel viaPeng- Dicksonand Melaka The busesthatrunalongthecoasthourlybetween Port hasOKroomsbutsuffers Kuala Pilah night market

( % a

481 4146;JlnBukit; ( ( % % ) offers clean banjo (egg 481 8033;745 288 7207) (Jln Yam(Jln is is opposite thebusstation. Thepostoffice be foundatthebusstation. Malaysia moneychanger hotel. Auseful can 38km south,andtransfer. tofirstneed take abustoTampin (RM3.20), the 16thcentury, diversions canfillafew days. views are rewarding andsomeabsorbing pointing andshallow forswimming,butthe on Malaysia’s surflist. The water isdisap- The beaches are very popular,butrank low Sights &Activities the shore. inoneofhoused themanyhotels along dents descendonthebeaches atweekends, Tanjung KLresi- Rachado). Tuan(Cape stretch of beach extending 16kmsouthto little interest, butit’sthegateway tothe Port Dickson(PD)isasmallporttownof % DICKSON PORT 6.5 JlnPantai; perhrRM3) Nearby you’ll findthe small for another kilometre to thelighthouse. theforest 2km and thenthrough reserve the Km16 marker; headdown theroadfor is near zards. The turn-offtothe lighthouse Sparrowhawks andGrey-facednese Buz- year,includingJapa-migratory birdsevery is astopoverThe reserve forover 300,000 trees including themighty Reserve Forest Rachado the an enjoyableuphill walkthrough in 1860andMalaysia’s oldest–concludes Melaka.across Selat –built Thelighthouse Sumatra, 38kmaway clear dayyoucansee (Rumah Api)offers fine,long views.Ona Originally built by the Portuguese inOriginally builtbythePortuguese For internet access,try 06 ,andjustoutsidethe Sheikh Sheikh Ahmad Majnun , 400m south of the Seri , 400msouthof theSeri , ajungleof towering Tanjung Tuan lighthouse www.lonelyplanet.com MDS Internet shorea leprosula. Blue Lagoon (3A Km Cape ,

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com view rRM230/260, Lagunadeluxe r RM280; paradisepd.com; Km3.5 JlnPantai; standard/deluxe ocean- are tranquil. cilities are shared things andonweekdays, along JlnPantai. Shower andcookingfa- fromtheroadupslopeback slightly con. Lookforthebluepainted shacksset ofcellent value,despite theabsence air- thishostel isex- and runbyfriendlystaff, shan Temple; JlnLama) smoky interior of theTaoist youcandelve although intothe son itself, rabbits andotherfurryfriends. teeming withcrocodiles,goats,peacocks, to 70kph–ostrich ridesandasmall farm ends only)–thebirdsreach of speeds up ostrich races(11amand3.30pmonweek- the localtintrade. town, orJuly).Builtin1847and7kmfrom (June Prayersprocession ney duringtheAnniversary son. Thegoddessperformsasimilarjour- on achariot processionaroundPortDick- Sri Maha Mariamman isconveyed atnight orOctober),theGoddess (September athiri down tothebeach. Atthefestival of on yourleftasyouheadouttheroad vibrantly painted reasonable value. this hotel fromthenationwide chain offers isn’t much bigger thanabeach towel,but 3798; Km5JlnPantai; dm/rRM7/25) the and assorted marinelife. (Tanjung Biru),withitspretty littlebeach www.lonelyplanet.com ing views over the bay.Activities include tions, thechild-friendly Corus has allur- slides and goodshallow andpaddling sec- poolwith waterEquipped withafantastic &SatRM140; Fri rates wellwithinreach. heftydiscountsdropluxuryroom weekdays and hotels full(exceptforhostels), buton room pricesrising and holidayperiodssee all thewaytoTanjung Tuan.Weekends are slungoutalongthelongstretch of beach conceivable every budget, Hotels, servicing Sleeping 14.5 JlnPantai; adult/childRM8/4; Seri Malaysia Malaysia Seri There’s inPortDick- notmuch tosee Corus Paradise Resort Corus Paradise Resort When yourchildren tire of thesand, Rotary Sunshine Camp Holiday Hostel HolidayHostel Rotary SunshineCamp Port Dickson Ostrich Farm DicksonOstrich Port was established toprotect wasestablished Fort Lukut as ( % . It’sback-to-back withthe Sri Maha Mariamman Temple Mariamman Maha Sri 647 6070;Km6;dSun-Thu RM120,

) The swimming pool ( % h 647 7600;www. corus

Fengshan Si ( 9am-5.30pm) % Clean, cheap 662 7496;Km as ( % Navar- (Feng- has 647 )

rooms facing the sea. Beer is served (percanRM6.50). rooms facingthesea. Beerisserved onthebeach.Fanand right roomsare large,withpricier 13 Telok dSun-Thu Kemang; &SatRM40)Cheap, RM30,Fri Kong Ming (Guangming) Hotel (Guangming)Hotel Kong Ming open foyer. views, five-a-side footballpitch and abreezy, tennis courts,amagnificentpool,beautiful lawns, withaprivate golfcourse,floodlit in huge landscapedgroundswithmanicured r RM220/280; rather old-stylefurniture. Coffee houseisopen 24hours. pool andsea-facingrooms, allwithsmallbalconyand a gym. eral goodrestaurants, anopen-airbarand open-air bathrooms.Alsoathandare sev- in wood,equippedwithfour-post bedsand including water styled chalets (onthesea), a large varietyof accommodationoptions, huge poolwithslides,atennis court,and greenery, there’s awater-sports centre, a signed andlushly planted withtrees and RM400/500; .com; Tanjung Biru,Km16JlnPantai; 3-/4-bedroomapt Selesa Resort Resort Selesa Lido Hotel El Cactus El Cactus Eating tai; mealsRM25; .com.my; Km5;dRM380; RM400; .guomanhotels.com; Km16JlnPantai, Teluk d Kemang; mounted atophalf aFiat 500Bambino, amusic system creativelyoutside seating, ortwo, with spot for dinner oranightcap (bottle of RM10.50), andawelcoming beer Corus, this isoneof PD’s few nonhotel bars children’s centre. bike rental forRM2perhourandalsoa andfullyequipped.There’scomfortable tideisatrumpcard.Roomsareat high hotel’s ownpalm-fringed lagoon thatfills sports. Therestaurants are goodandthe jungle-trekking, crab-hunting andwater ity apartment accommodation. ity apartmentaccommodation. beach. Thiswell-equippedresort offers qual- children’s playarea andasmallstretch of dens, swimmingpoolandpaddlingpool,a Ilhamhasspaciousgar-Forest Reserve, is at 1pm. Just along from the Kong Ming Hotel. is at1pm.JustalongfromtheKongMing a Also recommended: Ilham Resort Avillion Village Resort Avillion Resort Village Guoman Port Dickson Resort DicksonResort Guoman Port ) Beachfront; rooms are large and OK. Check-out time ) Beachfront;roomsare largeandOK. as NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Port Dickson NEGERI SEMBILAN••Port ( ( % as % as ) ( 012-646 3772;Km4,Lot 2674,JlnPan- Thisisanexclusive hotel, set % h 662 5273;Km13JlnPantai; dRM45-66; 647 4090; Km 8; superior/deluxe 647 4090;Km8;superior/deluxe ) 5.30pm-midnight) ) Minangkabau-style resort with resort ) Minangkabau-style Next to Cape Rachado Rachado NexttoCape ( % as 662 6800;www.ilhamresort ( % 647 6688;res@avillion ) ( % ( Beautifully de- Beautifully % South of the 662 5683;Km 662 7878;www

225 NEGERI SEMBILAN SEMBILAN NEGERI NEGERI SEMBILAN 226 dise Resort; mealsRM30) dise Resort; sports TV plusarelaxed atmosphere.sports TV menu (bonelesschicken fajitas RM15),live lounge musicand area, Latin pooltable, bottle RM95)andTiger (RM18). beer wine(per Drinksincludethehouse serve. reluctant to seem restaurant, staff although steak)cellent salmon –make thisapleasant vege andinternationaltables) dishes(theex- hon chai dishof (aChinese assorted cooked coconut milk), favourites like bay andawide-rangingmenu–Malaysian Dickson’s CoffeeHouse NEGERI SEMBILAN •• Port Dickson NEGERI SEMBILAN••Port Chinese dishessuch as Chinese nasi lemak Alfresco views over the ( % 647 7600;CorusPara- (rice boiledin loh beach. drop youoffwherever youlike alongthe KL (RM120). Melaka (RM30)and (RM80),Seremban in thecentre of fares town;taxi include isnexttothebusstation station The taxi writing youhave tofirst goviaSeremban. Lumut (RM22).ForMelaka, atthetimeof departures forIpoh (RM17.45,8.45am)and emban (RM2.80,onehour).There are also hours) departforSer- andhourlybuses adaygotoKL(RM6.50, twoSix buses &Around There Getting From Port Dickson town, local buses will From PortDicksontown,localbuses www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright thetermsand conditionsonour siteforalongerway ofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake

© LonelyPlanetPublications 227 MELAKA 227 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Pulau Besar Melaka AREA: 1652 SQ KM 1652 SQ KM AREA: „ Bidara Tanjung . par excellence

Tanjung Tanjung POPULATION: 705, 390 705, 390 POPULATION: „ Pulau Besar Pulau St Paul’s Church ( p232 ) St Paul’s Baba-Nonya Baba-Nonya historic town centre historic from Nonya delicacies to Portuguese Eurasian from Nonya delicacies to Portuguese Eurasian dishes and Buddhist vegetarian ), with delightful dis- p233 ( Museum Heritage house plays set up in a traditional Peranakan ) or the rocky headlands of p243 ( Bidara ( p244 ) and surveying the ruins of busy streets of Chinatown busy streets ( p235 ) ( p235 ), exploring its medley of Portuguese, p235 ( Dutch, Islamic and Chinese architecture Sampling Melaka’s famed cuisine ( p239 ), ), p239 Sampling Melaka’s famed cuisine ( Exploring the captivating sands of Exploring the white Scaling the modest heights of Bukit St Paul Wandering Melaka’s Wandering Sightseeing, shopping and delving into the TELEPHONE CODE: 06 06 TELEPHONE CODE: „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „ „

Beyond the city, there are worthwhile beach excursions to Pulau Besar and , Besar and Tanjung worthwhile are beach excursions to Pulau Beyond the city, there Under the Melaka sultanates, the city was a wealthy centre for trade with China, India, for trade with Under the Melaka centre the city was a wealthy sultanates, Modern Melaka that blew across Malaysia was swept up in the sudden economic boom „ plus the wildlife and theme-parkplus the wildlife attractions of . One of Malaysia’s most eagerly sought-after destinations, the small city-state of Melaka of city-state destinations, the small most eagerly sought-after One of Malaysia’s quickly to its namesake of visitors historic port they are droves city, where () lures and the alluring aro- world of heritage architecture multicultural intoxicating in an steeped local cooking. mas of distinctive Siam (Thailand) position on the Selat Melaka (Strait owing to its strategic and Indonesia, of Melaka).it appears today, and it is the basis for Malaysia as Melaka The were sultanates the soul of the nation. you’ll glimpse city is where sometimes said that this off during the ensuing eco- projects, which tapered land-reclamation Massive in the 1990s. the historic waterfrontnomic downturn, pushed that it endangered so far inland, however, Portuguese of the the traditional livelihood Malacca has a rich seam of fishing community. twin fruits of development: from those that this is under threat heritage, but many argue commercialisation and modernisation. Nevertheless, Melaka one of Malaysia’s most remains Proud of its multicultural heritage, plentiful museums and tourist experiences. rewarding assorted cultural attractions, Melaka is a tourist habitat M e l a k a MELAKA the Baba-Nonya (also called Straits Chinese (alsocalled Straits Chinese the Baba-Nonya with local and cametobeknown as settlersfollowed, whointermarried Chinese ofise enemies. protection from Siamese gifts fromtheMing emperorandtheprom- eunuch prince’,arrived inMelaka bearing Cheng Ho(see p234 ), the‘three-jewelled merchants fromallover theEast. spice islandsof Indonesia,Melaka attracted China andIndia,witheasyaccess tothe Melaka.the strategic Selat Halfway between soons andresupplying tradingships plying came afavoured portforwaitingoutmon- his newheadquarters. once more toMelaka, where heestablished in1398,forcinghimtoflee attack Siamese his piracyandotherexploitsprovoked a to Temasek (modern-daySingapore), where allegiance totheMajapahit empire andfled from Sumatra. hadthrownoff attention of Parameswara, aHinduprince other fishingvillage –untilitattracted the In the14thcentury,Melaka wasjustan- 228 History History To Port (30km) Dickson MELAKA

In 1405 the Chinese MuslimAdmiral In 1405theChinese Under Parameswara, Melaka soonbe- S Kuala Linggi

un Kampung To Seremban

g ••History MELAKA ai (35km) Ling

g Pengkalan i Kempas Tanjung Bidara China Lubok Masjid Tanah (Strait ofMelaka) Kampung Balik Batu Selat Melaka 5 Tanjung To KualaLumpur Pulau Upeh Kling Gajah Alor Kendong (95km) Berendam Melaka 19

Batu Lebuhraya Tampin 9 Tunggal Durian 1 NEGERI SEMBILAN

Pulau Besar

Ayer (Air) (Tollway) Molek Keroh Tunggal grew toovershadow Melaka. in thearea, such asIslamic DemakonJava, to continuetrading there, andotherports Muslim merchants fromArabia andIndia ily conquerMelaka, theycouldnot force cannonscould eas- cism. WhilePortuguese Francis Xavier strove toimplantCatholi- was constructed, andmissionarieslike St thefortressthe Portuguese, of A’Famosa where here-established hiskingdom.Under toJohor, toflee city, forcingthesultan in 1511 Alfonso deAlbuquerque tookthe and bythePortuguese, assault an outright took anumberof prisoners. Thisprompted and fleet laccans attacked thePortuguese after aninitially friendlyreception, theMa- wealth of thespiceandChinatrades,but the mid-15thcentury(see p31 ). solidated by thestate’sadoptionof Islam in powerful tradingstate. Itspositionwascon- Parameswara’s deathin1414,Melaka wasa ternal squabbles andintrigues,bythetimeof customs totheirownheritage. Despite in- people inMalaysia, theygrafted manyMalay or Peranakan). Thelongest-settledChinese Ayer Durian Tasik In 1509 the Portuguese came seeking the cameseeking In 1509thePortuguese Anjung Jetty Batu 5 M8 E2 Jasin Sempang 0 0 www.lonelyplanet.com Bekoh Rambai Sungai To Gemas(29km) To JohorBahru(160km); Sungai Nati Singapore (226km) JOHOR Sungai Muar 6 miles 10 km www.lonelyplanet.com aissance asatourist drawcard. aissance quiet backwater, quietly awaitingits ren- crop, Melaka returned againtobeinga century whenrubber wasanimportant Apart fromabrief upturnintheearly20th ofing commercialimportance Singapore. quickly supersededbytherapidly grow- and byotherStraitssettlements eclipsed underBritishHowever, ruleMelaka was for later expansionintothepeninsula. three Britishterritories thatwere thecentres pore, the formedtheStraitssettlements, today). (Bengkulu Sumatran portof Bencoolen ceded totheBritishinexchange forthe far, andin1824Melaka waspermanently in before destructive these policieswenttoo far-sighted founderof Singapore, stepped the tunately Raffles, Sir ThomasStamford ofevent Dutch controlbeingrestored. For- rivalling BritishMalayan centres inthe population toPenang toprevent Melaka and forciblyremoving Melaka’s Dutch they begandemolishing A’Famosa fortress selves andtheDutch. Accordingly,in1807 for fiercerivalryinMalaysia them- between of thepotential trademonopolyandsaw traders, were totheDutch policy opposed nies. TheBritishadministrators, essentially assumed administrationof theDutch colo- 1795, theBritish–Dutch allies–temporarily (see tuguese p235 ). acreole(Cristao), littered witharchaic Por- are andspeakKristang practisingCatholics Eurasians,manyofto Portuguese whom ence, whileMedan Portugisisstillhome most solidsuggestions of Europeanpres- buildings andchurches, which remain the donesia. InMelaka theybuiltfinepublic more energy inIn- intotheirpossessions peninsular trade,buttheDutch directed years. Melaka againbecamethecentre for The Dutch ruledMelaka foronlyabout150 hands aftersiege aneight-month in1641. port of theregion. Melaka intoDutch passed day Jakarta) asthekey developed European in Indonesiagrew (modern- andBatavia Melaka declinedfurtherasDutch influence from theIslamicpowerof AcehinSumatra. aswell ing Johor andNegeri Sembilan, fromtherulersrying attacks of neighbour- wasshortlived, asMelakaEast suffered har- Melaka, together with andSinga- When theFrench occupiedHollandin The periodof strength Portuguese inthe MELAKA dent everywhere, notleast intheMuslim Melaka’s multifaith culture evi- isdeeply and Indiantemples andIslamic mosques. tecture, Vic torian vestiges, Buddhist,Taoist andDutch archi- Portuguese shophouses, from itsrare compendiumof Peranakan culture. Thecity’suniquepersonality draws of Islamic,IndianandEuropean Chinese, inarichtive medley historyhascrystallised may have longsincewaned, butitsdistinc- own culturaloverlay. Melaka’s importance eachconquering Europeans, addingtheir port inSoutheastAsia, attractingwaves of the cityhadbecomegreatest trading and prosperity,bythe15thcentury guaranteed Melaka anenviableprestige of genuineseams character andhistory. skin andyouwillberewarded withrich theboxed(see text, p233 beneaththe ), peer trict iscompromisingitstraditionalcharms over-commercialisationthough of the dis- most traveller-trammelled area, andeven Malaysia. ChinatownisMelaka’s Delightful shot of thefecund multicultural traditionsof Melaka isapicturesque andsnap- tableau and historicaltreasures, thestatecapital One of thecountry’stop-drawerdestinations % MELAKA around town,see p242 and p243 city of Melaka,. aswelltransportoptions informationontransportto/fromthe tailed connect withDumaiinSumatra. Forde- at Tampin, 38kmnorthof town.Dailyboats tinations. TrainsdonotstopatMelaka but connections linkwithotherpeninsulardes- to KLandSingapore are plentifulandbus Expressnot handledomesticflights. buses overland, astheairportoutsidetowndoes travellers arrive anddepartfromMelaka is themainroutestate. through Most andKualaLumpur,linking Johor Bahru (North-SouthHighway),The Lebuhraya &Away There Getting test months. toNovemberyear, withSeptember thewet- 82%.Thereceeds the israinthroughout 21°C to33°Candaverage humidityex- The temperature inMelaka ranges from Climate Its strategic position on Selat MelakaIts strategic positiononSelat 06

229 MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA kan dishes to Portuguese cooking,restau-kan dishes toPortuguese finest cuisine. From characteristic Perana- lovers to someof canproceed Malaysia’s temples. to smilingbodhisattvas inChinatown’s worshippersChinese offering incense call toprayerthattravels sonorouslyover 230 To MasjidTranquerah(2km); Tanjung Bidara(30km); Port Dickson(94km) Chitty (100m) To Kampung

4 1 3 2 5

Jln Gajah MELAKA CITY

Having Melaka’s sampled food sights, Laksamana Kota Jln (Strait ofMelaka) Tengkera Jln Berang MELAKA •• Orientation ••Orientation MELAKA Melaka Selat

Jln Ong Kim Hoon AC

Jln K Jln Jln Ong Kim Wee

Jln PM 9 Sungai Melaka

a

Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock Cheng 40 Tan Tun Jln Jln Padang m 85 80

p 13 21 u 71 n

Jln PM8 Jln g

18 81 61

Jln Syed Abdul Aziz Abdul Syed Jln 1 Jln Empat 96 37

52

Hang Jln PM5 Jln

Jetty Jln Kubu 22 25 74

24 Jln Tan C

Jln PM4 Jln 77 20 Jebat To Hawk(2.5km); Lumpur (144km) Chinatown Melaka Sentral (2.5km); Kuala (2.5km); Tesco 93

Jln PM3 Jln Jln Portugis hay Y 91 36 Tuah an Hang Jln 86

68 Jln Quayside Masjid Jln 15 Jln 48 Ὀ Mahkota Melaka 95

10 Tan Chay Yan

12 Jln Tokong Jln 2 23 38

47

76 Jln PM2 Jln

Jln Hang Kasturi32

Glutton's Corner Hulu Kampung Jln Jln Graha Maju 42 39 73 98

31 Jln Kampung Jln

Kot Jln 14 a 5 9 B 17 58 41 94 11 33 Lg Hang Jebat 89 29 Shopping Jln Laksamana Complex Mahkota Parade 88 Town Square&

92

Jln Kee Ann Kee Jln 27 Pantai Fountain 8 St Paul Jln Pinang Bukit

16 Jln Merdeka Jln 19 34 Kampung Ὀ Ὀ 55 Pulau Melaka 28 Jln Gereja Morten Jln Kota 72 4 Public 90 an astonishing experience. thatmakesthe culturalmosaic Melaka such rant aromascitywideaddfurther colour to on foot, bicycle ortrishaw. to navigate toexplore andcompact enough Melaka isamedium-sized townthat’seasy ORIENTATION Bank

65

Jln Temenggong Jln Jln Bunga Raya 35 Jln Bandar Hilir Bandar Jln 3 87 83 56 Maybank

69 Jln Jln Bunga

Jln Ra

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6 75 Koon Jln 1 Jln 51

60 Bu Jln Tun Cheng

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45

Bank Jln Bukit China Bukit Jln

Jln Taman Melaka Raya (Jln TMR) (Jln Raya Melaka Taman Jln ka

97 7 lan Bandar Hilir 79 Jln Melaka Raya 5 Maybank 26 www.lonelyplanet.com

54 Jln

Jln Melaka Raya 12 Jln ὇὇ ὇὇

To Umbai&AnjungBatu; Parameswara Bukit China

To StJohn'sFort(2.5km); Laksamana Cheng Restoran deLisbon(3km)

Cemetery Jln Chinese

Medan Portugis(3km); Put (47m) eri Singapore(241km) D 53 Han San Pedro(3km); g Yong Chuan

Muar (45km); Li Poh Temple Tian 0.3 miles 500m

Ho www.lonelyplanet.com mosques. atmospheric Buddhisttemples and ancient Peranakan andantiqueshops, shophouses town tothewest islinedwithChinese shops.China- time hawker andsari stalls Melaka’s tinyLittleIndia,withitsnight- presence.guese Located furthernorthis only architectural remains of thePortu- Church deSantiago are andthePorta the aboverises Town Sq.Theruinsof StPaul’s fortofthe originalPortuguese A’Famosa, minders of thepresence of theDutch. Hall) andChristChurch are re- standout Dutch Sq) where (Town the oldStadthuys around TownSq(which isalsoknownas on theeastern sideof theriver, focussed OCBC Bank...... MPH Bookstores...... (see92) Mahkota MedicalCentre...... Internet Centre...... Immigration Office...... HSBC...... Sanduo Temple...... St Peter'sChurch...... St Paul'sChurch...... Putuo TCMTherapyCentre....(see22) Memorial...... Proclamation ofIndependence Porta deSantiago...... Poh SanTengTemple...... Naval Museum...... (see25) Maritime Museum...... Literature Museum...... (see33) Leong SanThong...... Kampung KlingMosque...... Museum...... (see33) History &Ethnography Hang Kasturi'sTomb...... Guanyin Temple...... Guangfu Temple...... Governor's House...... Association...... Eng Choon(YongChun) Museum...... Democratic Government ...... Cheng HoonTengTemple...... Cheng HoCulturalMuseum..... Chee Mansion...... Museum...... Baba-Nyonya Heritage Malaysia...... Architecture Museumof United OverseasBank...... Tourist Office...... Syarikat BukuThaiKuang...... Surf Zone...... Southern Hospital...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Bukit StPaul (StPaul’s Hill),thesite of The colonialareas of Melaka are mainly

31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B4 B3 B4 C4 C1 B3 C4 C2 B1 A1 B3 C1 B3 B3 B3 D3 A4 A3 B2 A2 A2 A2 B3 A2 B3 B3 B2 B3 A3 B3 B3 Wah Aik...... Villa Sentosa...... Sultan's Well...... (see26) Sultanate Palace...... ...... MoorthiTemple...... Sri PoyyathaVinayagar Capitol Satay...... Cafe 1511...... Bulldog Café...... Bayonya...... Yellow MansionHotel...... Travellers' Lodge...... Tony's Guesthouse...... Shirah's GuestHouse...... Seri CostaHotel...... Samudra Inn...... Samudera Backpacker’sHostel.. Sama-Sama GuestHouse...... Renaissance MelakaHotel...... Mimosa Hotel...... May ChiangHotel...... 1...... Malacca TownHolidayLodge Kancil GuestHouse...... Hotel Puri...... Hotel Orkid...... Hotel GrandContinental...... Hotel Equatorial...... Heeren Inn...... Heeren House...... Fenix Inn...... Emperor Hotel...... Eastern HeritageGuestHouse... City BayviewHotel...... Chong HoeHotel...... Century MahkotaHotel...... Baba House...... Aldy Hotel...... Xianglin Temple...... Wah TeckKiongTemple...... SLEEPING EATING Good range of titles. Parade, JlnMerdeka; 1st fl,Mahkota Syarikat Buku Thai Kuang Thai Buku Syarikat MPH Bookstores Bookshops INFORMATION selection ofEnglish-language titles. selection Parade, JlnMerdeka; Mahkota west of Melaka. Mahkota isacommercialarea inthesouth- struction atthetimeof writing.Plaza restaurant complexandmallundercon- Pahlawan,is Dataran anewshopping/ built onreclaimed land;alsointhisarea which areRaya, twocompletely newareas are Mahkota Melaka andTaman Melaka South of Melaka’s oldhistoricalquarter 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 69 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 C3 B3 C2 C4 C3 C4 C3 C4 A4 C5 C4 B3 C2 C2 B2 D4 D4 A3 C2 C1 C4 B3 B3 C4 C2 C3 C1 B2 B4 A3 B3 B2 A2 B2 C1 B3 B3 B3 Malaysia Airlines...... (see41) Luxury busestoSingapore...... (see41) Local BusStation...... Jin FuShin...... Ferries toDumai...... Dumai FerryService...... Orangutan House...... Malaqa House...... Complex...... Lim Trading...... Dataran Pahlawan...... Sound &LightShow...... (see27) Golden ScreenCinemas...... X-Tracts...... Kia KeeLiquorShop...... Geographér Café...... Vegan Salad&HerbsHouse..... UE TeaHouse...... Tart &Bakery...... (see14) Selvam...... Restoran Wuguzhan...... Restoran Peranakan...... Restoran Amituofoh...... Ole Sayang...... Nancy's Kitchen...... (see74) Malay FoodStalls...... Limau-Limau Café...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Mahkota ParadeShopping Restoran...... Jonkers Melaka Indian HawkerStalls...... Howard's...... Heeren House...... (see47) Harper's...... Discovery Cafe...... Coconut House...... Centrepoint FoodCourt...... ( % MELAKA ••Information MELAKA 283 3050;G73B,Groundfl, h ( % 9am-10pm) Reasonable 9am-10pm) Reasonable 282 0511;F59&60, h 10am-10pm) 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70

231

B1 C4 A4 B4 B3 B3 B4 B2 C4 B4 B3 C2 B2 A2 C3 C3 C4 A3 A4 D4 C4 A3 B3 C2 A2 B3 C3 A2 C2 MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA 30min RM3) See also 30min RM3)See p242 . Maestro, CirrusandPlusatits24-hourATM.Maestro, Persekutuan, JlnHangTuah) Visa/Plus. inChinatownhasa24-hourATMthe bridge thattakes square from Christ Church. square fromChrist andotherbumf. Diagonallyacrossthe maps ofMelaka .melaka.gov.my; JlnKota; the TownSq. residence, theStadthuys The imposingred townhallandgovernor’s Stadthuys p235. Melaka are taken in onthewalkingtour, Note thatmostof in thecentralsights &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS Police Tourist Office Tourist Information Tourist Post office Post Bank Overseas United OCBC Bank HSBC in Chinatownandnearthebusstations. Moneychangers are scattered about,mainly Money Southern Hospital Hospital General Melaka Centre Medical Mahkota Services Medical Zone Surf Centre Internet Café Geographér Access Internet Immigration office Immigration Office PoliceHotline Melaka Emergency 232 9am-12.15pm &2.45-5.30pm Fri) admission adult/child RM5/2; Visa, Maestro, CirrusandPlus). Visa, Maestro, stantial soliddoorsstantial andlouvred windows, With sub- est Dutch building intheEast. tobetheold- 1641 and1660 isbelieved medical.com; No 3, Mahkota Melaka, JlnMerdeka) Melaka, medical.com; No3,Mahkota 4426/4427, emergency2814068/4071;www.mahkota (Jln HangTuah) Hasa24-hourATMs(Jln (MasterCard, MELAKA •• Sights & Activities ••Sights&Activities MELAKA

(120 JlnTMR;perhrRM2.50) (Jln Laksamana)Thisisasmallpostofficeoff (Jln (Lg Hang Jebat) Thisbranchjustover (Lg HangJebat) ( ( % % (54 Jln Bunga Raya; perhrRM3.50) (54JlnBungaRaya; ( % ( 281 4803,1800-889483;www 281 4803;JlnKota; % ( % 281 6813; 83 Jln Hang Jebat; per 281 6813;83JlnHangJebat;

(Jln PM5) MasterCard, Visa, PM5) MasterCard, (Jln h ( 283 5888;169JlnBendahara) % 282 4958;2ndfl,Wisma ( 9am-1pm &2-5.30pm)Free % h 285 1999) , was built between , wasbuiltbetween (Town Sq; (Town 282 2344;JlnPringgit) (appointments 9am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, h % 8am-11pm) 282 6526; % 281 the interior. around ing andfineoldtombstonesstand isbeautiful,thewallsarethe setting impos- inruinsformorebeen than150years, but storehouse forgunpowder. Thechurch has and thechurch endedupasa eventually wasbuilt, alighthouse the tower,although UndertheBritishchurchdisuse. lost ofChurch at thebase thehill,itfell into the Dutch completed theirownChrist following theDutch takeover, butwhen the frontin1590.Thechurch wasrenamed to twostoreys, andatowerwasaddedto remains today. before beingtransferred where toGoa, it memorates theoccasion)forninemonths here of com- (amarblestatue the saint bodywastemporarilythe saint’s interred Xavier, andfollowinghisdeathinChina, church wasregularly visited byStFrancis from thesummitof BukitStPaul. The and offers fine,breezy viewsover Melaka Asia inEast lime testament toCatholicism Museum mildly interesting Literature Saturday andSunday.Upthehillis guided tours available 10.30amand2.30pm History & Ethnography Museum &EthnographyMuseum History clock tower. here Housed istheinformative buildings aroundtheTownSqandold and itsport-red themeextends totheother it istypicalof Dutch colonialarchitecture 5.30pm Sat-Thu, 9am-12.15pm&2.45-5.30pmFri) Sat-Thu, 9am-12.15pm&2.45-5.30pmFri), chapel, of theHill in 1521asthesmallOurLady captain Originally builtbyaPortuguese St Paul’sChurch ( ( admission RM2; replica of aMelaka sultan’s this wooden Housing aculturalmuseum, Palace Sultanate Fri) Fri) entirely withoutnails. of the original15th-century palace, built on descriptions, from the Museums, aswelltothe Museums, the History&EthnographyandLiterature cusing onMalaysian writers. Admissionto Stadthuys. h h , isincludedintheadmissionpriceto In 1556StPaul’s Church wasenlarged Democratic Government Museum Museum and theDemocraticGovernment 9am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, 9am-12.15pm&2.45-5.30pm 9am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, 9am-12.15pm&2.45-5.30pm St Paul’s Church h 9am-5.30pm Wed-Mon) (Bukit StPaul) (Bukit www.lonelyplanet.com Governor’s House Governor’s Malay Annals, palace ( h which has 9am-5.30pm is based isbased is asub- ( (Jln Kota; (Jln h , fo- 9am-

both avenerable andsacred site. much larger temples inChina,butitremains the temple’s fame,itcannotcompare with farers, placedtotheleftof Guanyin.Despite ofpray tothealtar Tianhou, goddessof sea- sion of black,goldandred. Worshippers also anexplo- within themaintemple hall,itself oftion. Arobedeffigy Guanyincan befound involvedwith theartisans initsconstruc- ing materials imported fromChina,along temple, withallbuild- laysia’s oldestChinese Goddess of Mercy. Datingto1646,thisisMa- fam ous temple, isdedicated toGuanyin,the Jiā ware’, multicoloured ceramicdesignsfrom mother-of-pearl inlay.Displaysof ‘Nonya VictorianandDutch designswithnese, of hardwoodsfashionedinChi- Chinese residence.Baba-Nonya Furniture consists ranged tolooklike atypical19th-century includes aguidedtour. Theadmissionfee add tothepresentation. made specificallyfortheStraitsChinese, www.lonelyplanet.com Malay this1920s While notanofficialmuseum, Sentosa Villa Hoon Teng Temple woodwork,the foritscarved Notable Cheng HoonTeng Temple RM8/4; ( in Chinatown,thiscaptivating inatraditionalPeranakanSet townhouse Museum Baba-Nonya Heritage 25 JlnTokong; % ngxī period shophouse(No8Heeren St)andhave sinceproduced Lim HuckChinandFernando Jorge are ontherestoration architects whoworked ofaDutch- VOICES FROMTHESTREET threat intherushtopaintheritagebuildingsgarishcoloursnameofconservation. the website www.malaccavoices.com. gorgeous bookofphotosandstoriesaboutthetown.Youcanlearntheirworkbyvisiting 283 1273;48-50JlnTun Tan ChengLock;adult/child heard themspeak. placeanditspeoplewouldbetold.AndweIn thehopethatstoryofanextraordinary listened atevery turn,atevery step. Tothelivinganddead.The pastandthepresent. temples, ruinsandcemeteries. Even tothemurmursandwhispersofemptyspaces. We as wesearchedouthiddencornersandabandonedalleyways. Listened tohousesand We beganbylistening tothevoicesofordinaryMalaccans. Welistened tothecity’sstreets, Lim andJorge’s wordsandpictures capture thatmanyresidents themagic fear ofMelaka isunder h andGuǎ kampung (village) called house 10am-12.30pm &2-4.30pmWed-Mon) Extract fromMalacca:Extract Voices fromtheStreet h 7am-7pm) ngdō (Qing Yun Ting; Green CloudsTemple;

ng provinces inChina, , Chinatown’smost museum isar- Cheng Cheng Villa

© LimHuckChinandFernando Jorge (2005). villasentosa; entrybydonation; turned with theMingemperor’s daughter oftan Melaka’s toChina re- ambassador In themiddleof the15thcenturysul- China Bukit Malaysia, churchThe oldestfunctioningCatholic in Church St Peter’s Sat-Thu, 2.45-5pmFri) far-flung partsof thecountry. ing ittheoccasionforatriphome from Malaccans flock here, many of themmak- Friday thechurch comesalive whenthe bell castinGoa(India)1608.On Good (You are theRock)above anda thealtar wordsTuesPetrusglass windows,theLatin settlers.Thechurchtuguese hasstained- built in1710bydescendantsof earlyPor- moreeven traditional wards, strollaroundKampung Morten with legions of visitors, somewell-known. After- which record congratulatory remarks from to thevisitors’ book,copiousvolumesof genuine a all, it’sanopportunitytowanderthrough Haji Abdul Ghani(wholived here). Most of late Tuan Haji Hashim BinDatoDemang honour awardedbyKingGeorge Vtothe old copyof theQuranandacertificate of cluding Mingdynastyceramics,a100-year- There’s avariedcollectionof objects,in- viaabridge. which isaccessed the house, member of thefamilywillshow youaround Kampung Morten, iswellworthavisit.A Sentosa Sentosa (Peaceful Villa; kampung Youcanalsoadd house. MELAKA ••Sights&Activities MELAKA St Peter’s Church St Peter’s Malacca: Voices FromThe Street, , ontheMelaka River in % kampung houses. 282 3988;www.travel.to/ h (Jln Bendahara) Bendahara) (Jln 9am-1pm &2-5pm

a 233 was MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA tory picked outbyratherfadedanddated examinationofa detailed Melaka’s his- treasures backtoEurope. Clamber upfor Melaka whiletryingtotransportMalaysian offthecoastof shipthatsank Portuguese huge re-creation of the mission RM2; h frt at f the of part first The &NavalMuseum Museum Maritime the city. target foroppositionforceswantingtotake source of water forMelaka andaprime Princess Hang LiPoh. Itwasanimportant MansorSultan Shah wife, forhisChinese Sultan’s Well ofGuanyin. Totheright thetemple isthe ages of theTaoist entityDaboGong,and Temple Treasures Mount)inMandarin, ShanBukit China,calledSanBao (Three positivemaximise feng shui. Atthefootof graveyards are often builtonhillsidesto but mostare nowinasorrystate. Chinese nate graves date backtotheMingdynasty, graves andcovering 25hectares. Someor- moreoutside China–totalling than12,000 the largest cemetery intheworld Chinese tobe two adjoininghills,formswhatissaid areaChinese sinceand,together ever with astheirresidence.established a Ithasbeen China(ChinaHill)was maidens, andBukit with heravastretinue, including500hand- thetwocountries.Shebetween brought relations toseal as abrideforthesultan, 234 a traditional Indianwedding ceremony. enoughtowitnessmight alsobefortunate celebrationwhenyouchar) inMay,aHindu man Festival (alsocalledPesta DatukChar- The besttimetovisitisduringthe der andseetraditionalMalay-stylehouses. it’saprettyMorten, inwhichtowan- district the archway withelephantsculptures beside ofChinatown;lookforthemetre northwest Berang,about akilo- lies westofJlnGajah Chitty,area oftown,knownasKampung who intermarried withMalaywomen.Their born Indians,offspring oftheIndiantraders has asmallcommunityofChitty–Straits- As wellastheBaba-Nonya,Melaka also CHITTY KAMPUNG MELAKA •• Sights & Activities ••Sights&Activities MELAKA Mutamariman Temple Kampung . Like was built in 1795 and contains im- was builtin1795andcontains h , a15th-centurywellbuiltby 9am-5.30pm) Maritime Museum Museum Maritime Flora de laMar, is housed inais housed Poh SanTeng Mariam- (ad- a nautical devices. nautical devices. like afeathered bird),plusanassortmentof the striking‘Kepala carved Burung’ (aboat exhibits featuring localvessels, including building nextdoorwithmore absorbing props. TheNavalcontinuesinthe Museum Senjuang) you here. willgetbus 17fromthelocalstation restaurants in and aroundthesquare. Town joying arelaxing ormealat the many beer breeze islovelystaged. Butthesea whileen- are whenculturalevents urday evenings and thesquare often empty,exceptonSat- fisheries. reclamation hasdamaged localfamily-run articles, somerelating tohowMelaka’s land advertisements andnews forculturalevents community officebulletinboarddisplays wasn’t completed untilthelate 1980s. aculturalfocus, and lendingthesettlement after atypical Portuguese ernment inthe1920s,butsquare, styled totheBritishcolonialgov-the settlement posite ). AFrench missionaryfirst proposed ago, manyof (see whomspeakKristang op- col andMalaysonial Portuguese 400years nity, descendedfrommarriages the between is theheartof Melaka’s Eurasiancommu- The small coast, is 3kmeastofRoughly thecitycentre, onthe Portugis Medan Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri-Sun) adult/childRM20/10; 1135; 51LgHangJebat; thisextensiveHo (Zhenghe), A lengthypaeontoMingAdmiralCheng Museum Cheng HoCultural Dutch de Santiago,theysparedPorta thesmall theBritish demolishedmostofAlthough St John’sFort Dutch rebuilt itinthe18th century), it dedicated (untilthe toStJohn theBaptist film presentationonChengHo. side). Theticket priceincludesa15-minute show isentertaining(despite itsgruesome in Africaare intriguingwhilethepuppet farer. Photographs of descendants Chinese voyages of theintrepid sea- Chinese-Muslim The In theopensquare area, thePortuguese kampung isunexceptional,however, St John’sFort . Originally a Portuguese chapel. OriginallyaPortuguese (Portuguese Sq). (Portuguese Portugis Medan kampung centred onthesquare

charts thetremendous (Bukit Senjuang, off Jln Bukit offJlnBukit Senjuang, (Bukit www.lonelyplanet.com mercado (market) museum h 9am-6pm ( % 283 to Pulau Besar see see to PulauBesar p243 . depending onthetide. Forscheduled ferries 1am to6amRM120),withdeparture times return(7am tomidnight ticket RM100, charter 10-person boatstoPulauBesar godown (river warehouses). Youcanalso islocated, pastoldwhere VillaSentosa Kota. Theboattravels toKampung Morten, the quaybehindtouristofficeonJln person RM40,min2people) 40 minutes,people) minimumeight alongtheMelakaboat cruises River (RM10, www.lonelyplanet.com Tour Aliastojoinhis popular contact the fascinatinglandscapearound Melaka, For somethingdifferent andtoexplore Tours Bike Parameswara Tours Trips Boat TOURS Tranquerah Masjid square, multitiered roof, the150-year-old Of typicalSumatrandesign,featuring a Tranquerah Masjid from thehilltop. the fortremain, butthere are fineviews a few wallsandcannonemplacementsof before theturn-offtoMedan Portugis.Only onahilltoptotheeastofstands townjust to Melaka, where hediedin1853. later in1819.Thesultan retired ford Raffles signed over theislandof Singapore toStam- is thetombof Sultan ofHussein Johor, who 2km towardsPortDickson.Initsgraveyard rvles Lde ( p238 ). Lodge Travellers’ ties surrounding town.Pick up isfromthe ations and delightful palm-oilandrubber-treethrough plant- are you?). For further information on the Kristang language, click on www.joanmarbeck.net. informationontheKristanglanguage,clickwww.joanmarbeck.net. are you?).Forfurther expressions include ofKristangareing thelanguage,butmanyspeakers SomeKristang fightingforitspreservation. andanincreasingspeakers preference forEnglishamongtheyoungergenerationsisendanger- populations liescattered inSingapore andelsewhere populationof inMalaysia. Itsshrinking ofthecreole Mostspeakers butsmallcomprehensible live tovisitorsfromPortugal. inMelaka, itpartially making Malay althoughitsvocabularyislargely fromarchaicPortuguese, extracted Kristangemploysagrammaticalstructure similarto whofirstcametoMelaka, the Portuguese bydescendantsof inMalaccaforhalfamillennium.Spoken the wordChristian)hassurvived The creole languageof Kristang (alsocalled Papiah Kristang,CristãoorCristan–derived from KRISTANG ( % 019-652 5029; [email protected]; per 019-652 5029;[email protected]; ( (Masjid Tengkera;(Masjid JlnTengkera) %

, athree-hour bike ride bong pamiang(goodmorning), 286 5468) kampung has dailyriver- communi- Eco Bike Eco Bike

from is plate ( the Dutch periodinMelaka isthe historic hub.Themostimposingrelic of TownSq,Melaka’s atthedelightful Start WALKING TOUR and admire the marvellous and admire themarvellous were each cutfromasingletree. Sitdown massive 15m-longceilingbeamsoverhead the floorof thechurch’s interior, whilethe Dutch andArmeniantombstonesstilllie in red laterite whenconstructed in1753. inHollandandfacedwithlocal Zeeland constructed from frompinkbricksbrought House ( Museum Heritage nacular canbegleaned fromthe courtyard houses. admit sunandrain–similarto Chinese The interiors openintoairycourtyardsthat Palladianas Chinese Baroque. and Chinese described influences inastylethathasbeen Dutch andBritish Chinese, terwork, fuse withtheirintricate tilesandplas- houses, typicalPeranakanearly 20thcentury.These during theshort-lived rubberboomof the tradersborn Chinese) whowere mostactive ferred address (Straits- forwealthyBaba St, thisnarrowthoroughfare wasthepre- FormerlycalledHeerenfor racingtraffic. Jln TunTan ChengLock,butwatch out (past Harper’s restaurant) andstrollalong Melaka River. Onthefarshore, turnleft 1904’. Queen the peopleof Malacca inmemoryof aGreat ing: ‘VictoriaRegina1837–1901.Erected by withaninscribedplaqueread-and affixed images of Victoria’sfaceinprofile, Queen Town Sq,emblazonedwithfourbas-relief mutu merseh(thankyou)and 1 ; p232 andcontem- theStadthuys ). Exit An intriguing insight intothelocalver-An intriguinginsight Walk westacrossthebridge over the Christ Church Christ ( 5 ; p242 ) andpick over itshorde of 4 ( 2 ; p233 ). PopintoMalaqa ; cnr Jln Gereja &JlnLaksamana) ; cnrJlnGereja MELAKA ••Tours MELAKA teng bong?(how fountain Baba-Nonya Stadthuys (3) inthe 235

, MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA Jonkers St(or JunkStMelaka), famedforits left onto Jln Hang Jebat, formerly known as Tun Tan ChengLock) The as ahotel, shrine notopentothepublic. ( from thestreet opposite istheCheeMansion impressive back classical-stylebuildingset The FortuitousSea’. Mountain, ‘Longevity emblazoned onthedoorliterally mean ( Puri Hotel antiques before continuingtotheelegant Leong San Thong the dignifiedLeongSanThong tique shops.Opposite Howard’s restaurant is Cross St),pastastringof restaurants andan- and walknorthupJlnHang (Third Lekir elsewhere inChinatown. the countryandpeople’–which yousee ters written onthebuildingmean‘Peace to charac-adorning thestonepillars. Chinese dragons gods onthedoors andthecarved to twoTaoist deities.Admire thepainted asmallshrine guildhall,containing Chinese 8 JlnLekir) 236 7 0 ; Another traditional house now serving nowserving Another traditionalhouse Backtrack alongJlnTunTanBacktrack ChengLock Duration Three hours Distance 2.5km Finish River Melaka TownSq Start WALK FACTS 115-117 JlnTun Tan ChengLock), 13 8 Eng Choon (Yong Chun) Association Chun)Association Eng Choon(Yong

MELAKA •• Walking Tour ••Walking MELAKA 7

Jln

Jln Tun Tan Cheng Lock Cheng Tan Tun Jln 9 , builtin1928.At thejunction,turn Hang 14 6 ὈὈ

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122 Jln Jln Gereja 25 Jln Kota 26 Centre TCM Therapy beyondwhichright, isthetempting all-white the . is transformedintoamarket of called stalls Sunday thestreet isforpedestriansonlyand bargains canbeelusive). OnSaturdayand atwill,but antique andcraftshops(browse Teng Temple ( temple,ebrated the Chinese women inMelaka. gruesome fashionforwell-to-doChinese of forboundfeet, oncetheheight shoes specialist manufacturer whocraftsdoll-like Jln Tokong) Guangfu Gong).Aheadisthe TempleKiong (14) ple of shrines,the smallChinese Tokong (Temple Street) andpastacou- (1000-arm) version. ofeffigy GuanyinisamodernQianshou flanked bytwoattendants. Thecentral hallistheTaoistthe second Jade Emperor, dhist Goddessof in Compassion. Seated ( the small,modernandpink reflexology. Furtheralongonyourleftis of foot massage (perhourRM38)anddoses happens tobejustthespotforarevitalising medicine–ing intraditionalChinese recently constructed ing effigies ofing effigies DaboGong, JinhuaNiang- shrine encapsulat- Miao), another Chinese ther aheadisthe the Hindudeity Vinayagar. fur- Slightly (20), datingfrom1781 anddedicated to Temple Moorthi PoyyathaVinayagar is theSri early mosquesinSumatra. Furtheralong a Moorishwatchtower minaret typicalof owes itsinspirationtoHindutemples, and Hinduarchitecture), inBalinese whichseen meru roof (stacked formsimilar tothat (19). Thishoarymosquehasamultitiered moved tootherareas. be famedforitsgoldsmiths, butmosthave funerary preparations. Thestreetto used red andgoldlanterns, papermoneyand to JlnTokongare shops selling theChinese Buddhist temple. Addingsplashesof colour follow thelayoutof atraditionalChinese grant Forest Temple), which endeavours to 13; GuanyinTang) dedicated totheBud- Continuing west,youwillapproach the Chinatown’s mostelaborate andcel- Hang here aright andheadupJln Kampung KlingMosque Continue easttotheKampung shoemaker’s shoponyourleft–a shoemaker’s Hang Kasturi’s Tomb(11)onyour Hang Kasturi’s 17; p233 ) isopposite themore Guangfu Temple andtheGuangfu ( ( 12 Sanduo Temple ; 134JlnHangJebat) Xianglin Temple ( www.lonelyplanet.com Guanyin Temple Wah Aik Wah ( Cheng Hoon 21; Sanduo specialis- Wah TeckWah 18; Fra- which which ( Putuo 16; 15; 56 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com 9am-12pm & 3-6pm Fri) 9am-12pm &3-6pmFri) Dutch bricks. occasional barberandwalls of distinctive mana), andtake inriverine views,bars, the the Melaka River (parallel withJlnLaksa- promenade brick clude yourwalkbyamblingalong the short of localbuildingtechniques andstyles.Con- ofMalaysia Museum Architecture St Paul andheadback to the of colonialism. domes wasoncetheMelaka Club,abastion grand buildingtoppedbyMogul-inspired tion daysisnoteworthy). Ironically,this the Japanese officer’sswordfromoccupa- tolookat(although perhaps notenough dependence. There’s toomuch toread and the historyof Malaysia’s progression toin- Restoran Restoran Melaka ters TheJonkers andornamentations. Western-style balustrades,balconies,shut- tiling, inlaidcoloured stones,carvings, decorative touches alongtheway–mosaics, (First CrossSt)andthebridge, notingthe Jebat. StrollbacktoLorongHang Jebat Hang (FourthCrossSt)toJlnHang Lekiu terior wallof themosquebackalongLorong and Guanyin. niang (whowomenentreat forchildren) www.lonelyplanet.com h Church topped bythefabulousruinsof steps leadingtothetopof BukitStPaul, andclamberupthe back totheStadthuys building. Memorial Memorial the way,ProclamationofIndependence inaBritish villaacrossfrom 1911,housed Palace ( is theSultanate Dutch after theirtakeover in1670. arms asthiswaspartof bythe thefortused IndiaCompany’s coatofthe Dutch East relic of thefortbearsthis solesurviving fortress, call.Curiously, butitwasaclose before thecomplete destructionof theold mayhave stepped in Raffles 1512. Stamford constructed byAlfonsodeAlbuquerquein fortressPortuguese A’Famosa, originally the maingate –andallthatremains –of the down thehillto Follow Jln Kota around the base aroundthe ofFollow JlnKota Bukit Backtrack andhangaleftalongtheex- Backtrack Traverse thebridge, crosstheTownSq To the east at the base ofTo theeastatbase Bukit StPaul There are steps fromStPaul’s Church 9am-6pm) ( 23; p232 ). ( 22; p241 ( 26; hasarange of excellentmodels admission free; (28) ontheeastern bankof ) Porta deSantiago(24) Porta is anoteworthy oldNonya is a museum chartingis amuseum

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( 9am-6pm Sat-Thu, Town Sq. The The Town Sq. 27 ; admissionfree; St Paul’s , once the RM26doublewithbalcony. and reception doublesasabar. Anglefor dipping pool,adownstairs commonroom and impressivepanelling. There’s a carved (dating from1918)withPeranakan tiling its businessfromasuperboldbuilding with shared shower) ar jungle ofis adelightful greenery, rooms(all mode. siesta Therear in serious courtyard home atthiseasy-going Chinatownhaunt fast; China;dmRM8,sRM18-22,dRM20-26, withbreak- Bukit Malim chapel,inmid-September.Malim andSingaporean Catholicsto procession ofMalaccan Jln TMR;sRM16-25,dRM18-30) Portuguese Settlement. Portuguese community inlateJunebythelightingofcandles Eurasian San Pedro, thisfestival iscelebratedbyMelaka’s Malacca TownHolidayLodge1 Malacca Budget stated. otherwise dorms willhave shared bathrooms,unless roomshavebelow. Generally showers and ratethe weekends; theweekday isquoted at theirtariff and top-endhotels raise keeps pricesquiteSomemidrange static. modation variesinquality,butcompetition Melaka’s growingbandof budget accom- SLEEPING Cruz Santa Festa Festival Boat Dragon Juan San Festa Pedro San Festa Easter andNationalDay(see Thaipusam p489 ). NewYear,holidays, includingChinese Melaka celebrates allthemajor Malaysian FESTIVALS &EVENTS fishing, handicraft andcarnivalfestivities; inlateJune.fishing, handicraft withcooking, Portugis, deSantiagotoMedan the Porta Peter’s Churchandnormallyincludeafloatprocessionfrom placeatSt tuguese fishingcommunity,celebrationstake Take bus17fromMelaka Sentral. most otherhostels, butthisisanOKchoice. dorms oradecorated commonroomlike Chinese poetandstatesmanQuYuan. commemorates thedeath,bydrowning,of3rd-centuryBC byadragon-boatraceintheStraitofMelaka, marked held outsideatStPeter’s Church.InMarch/April. dm RM10,dRM15-30) 26JlTukang Besi; 1980; www.sama-sama-guesthouse.com; Eastern Heritage GuestHouse Heritage Eastern o s Good Friday andEasterSundayprocessionsare GoodFriday ) This well-located guesthouse does does Thiswell-located guesthouse Sama-Sama GuestHouse MELAKA ••FestivalsMELAKA &Events (Festival ofStJohn)Justbefore theFesta Honouring thepatronsaintofPor- Honouring Thisfestival finisheswithacandlelight Relax andmake yourself at ThisJune/JulyChinesefestival, e good, the house is a isa e good,the house Itmaynothave

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237 MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA phone). or with twodozenspaciousrooms(noTV i 177 JlnParameswara; s/tw/dRM18/28/30; .com.sg/kancil; library, kitchen andfree movies. well, Shirah’s offers arooftop terrace, small bed) have ceilings.As balconiesandhigh facilities. Somerooms(onewithafour-post well asbike hire, internet accessandkitchen room andinformative bulletinboards,as and balcony. facilities. Pricierroomscomewithshower andkitchen curity. There’s laundryservice Samudra Innoffers comfort,valueandse- and helpfulowners (bothex-teachers), the Clean,quietandrunbyvery friendly Raya). southof Tamanhouse JlnTMR (Jln Melaka aboutthispopularandcomfyguest- thuse historic centre of Melaka, buttravellers en- Raya 1;dRM26-46; Raya Town SqfromMelaka Sentral. in bottlesthetoilet.Take bus17tothe tic. Quirksextend toabraceof fish fighting chunk of heritage andpricesare quite elas- RM23-45; 1;dmRM12,d Raya .ent.my; 207-209,2ndfl,JlnMelaka d/tr RM20/27) Take bus17fromMelaka Sentral. runs analcohol-free premises. onthe café dotted withflowers andplants.Thelodge vertigo-inducingrace upthe stepsisaboon, tidy commonroom.Thesheltered roof ter- mon areas are andthere’s wellmaintained, a pricier air-con roomshave shower. Com- have windowsandtiledfloors, butnoTV; RM24-45; 3;dmRM12,sRM18-35,d Raya .com; 348BJlnMelaka Malaccan houses. The road itself islethal Malaccan itself The road houses. along a road studded with picturesque fers spacious, secure lodgings(allwithfan) Tian Temple, of- guesthouse thispleasant has acafé. of Marilyn andElvis, CheGuevara, Monroe sake owner. The lobby,hungwithimages to popularitybyitstravel-minded name- nurturedrooms withfan),Tony’shasbeen long-stayers clingingtocheap rooms(all 238 a 1;sRM15-30,dRM25-35,trRM55; Raya 205b JlnMelaka rvles Lodge Travellers’ Samudera Backpacker’s Hostel Hostel Samudera Backpacker’s Tony’s Guesthouse Samudra Inn Kancil Guesthouse Kancil Shirah’s GuestHouse Shirah’s ) ) Very cleanandwell-looked-after hostel West of the smallTaoist Yong Chuan MELAKA ••Sleeping MELAKA ai a Backpacker-friendly, withsome ) Itmaynotbelocated inthe ) a Here there isacosycommon ( % )

( All roomsare cleanand ( 282 7441;samudrainn@hotmail % % ( % ( 226 5709; 214B Jln Melaka 226 5709;214BJlnMelaka % 688 0119; 24 Lg Banda Kaba; 688 0119;24LgBandaKaba; 281 4044;www.machinta 286 1041;shirahgh@tm ( % 283 4231; .my; 125-127JlnTun Tan Cheng Lock;s/dRM85/95; out iscomforting. clean. Thefamily-runatmosphere through- but showerroomsare newand otherwise The sinksare littlebigger thansoapdishes, (nophones).rooms, allwell-maintained well-managed hotel offers budget midrange onforever, goes thisfresh,that seemingly an attractive Chinatownbuilding anddeep barbecues Thursday nights. pressive. There’s wi-fi, arooftop Jacuzzi and shower rooms;common areas are lessim- equipped TV satellite boutique-style hotel has excellent,new opposite thefootof BukitStPaul, this out like ared, sore thumb atopabistro from Melaka Sentral. net access(perhourRM3.50).Take bus17 also bike rental (perdayRM10)andinter- owners are andhelpful.There’s pleasant withagorgeousdeep, gardenoutback.The islovely butthehouse with traffic, and .my; 27JlnKota;standarddRM110; a s/tw/tr/fRM50/60/90/130; mansion.com; 45JlnBandaKaba; Jln Tun Tan ChengLock;dRM68-88; Inn Heeren Midrange ChiangHotel May Chinese area.Chinese Gooddiscountsonrates. and enjoysagreat locationinabustling has clean,modern,fullyequipped rooms Somewhat blandandfunctional,thishotel worn. windowless, are getting abitdrab and a cool,interior courtyard.Rooms,many panelsand ranged withtilework,carved buildingisbeautifullyar-this elegantBaba In arowof restored Peranakan shophouses, Chong HoeHotel The familyroomoffers tremendous space. with shower)are windowless,socheck first. Somedoubles(all clean, withpolite staff. .com; 108 Jln Bunga Raya; rwithbreakfast RM98; .com; 108JlnBungaRaya; rooms, allwithshowerandmostair-con. placewithonlyeight(rathershabbilyfurnished) friendly sRM30-35,d/trRM40/45; lah; location. s RM25,dRM25-43; aa House Baba Yellow Hotel Mansion Aldy Hotel Aldy Hotel Hotel Mimosa Also recommended: ) A newMalay-run hotel, thisisvery Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ( % ( % ( 288 3600;[email protected]; 23 ( % a ( % ( % % 281 1216;[email protected] 283 3232;www.aldyhotel.com ) Small,simpleandclean.Fine 282 6102;26JlnTukang Emas; 282 2101; 59 Jln Munshi Abdul- 282 2101;59JlnMunshi 282 1113;www.mimosahotel ( a rooms withspotless % www.lonelyplanet.com ai ) Well-run,cleanand 283 8885;www.yellow a ) Housed in Housed ) Standing a a ) ) Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com RM139; .net/heerenhouse; 1JlTun Tan ChengLock;dwithbreakfast wood. Goodpromotionalrates are offered. with bedsandotherfurniture madeof teak- coffee- andtea-making facilities,andcome Rooms are fullyequippedwithsatellite TV, Merdeka catering mainlyto Malay guests. smart three-star hotel southwestof Jln ment prices rise duringholidayperiods. ment pricesrise bars, andtennis andsquashcourts.Apart- two large swimmingpools, restaurants and plus anamplerange of facilitiesincluding hotel hasarange of suites andapartments, Parade shopping complex,thisresort-style of reclaimed waterfront southof theMahkota fered; goodchoice. access (perhourRM2.50).Discountsof- and agoodcropof terminals forinternet rooms(mostwithwindow),comfortable drinking water oneach floorandclean, less placewithpolite management. There’s Jln TMR;dRM128; the same name is in the foyer (see nameisinthefoyer(see the same p241 ). beds) andcleanshowers. Apopularcaféof traditional furniture (somewithfour-post look theriver, withpolishedfloorboards, in all)thisformer Theairy,cleanandlovelysights. rooms(six and withinrange of toplocalrestaurants and in theheartof Chinatown,onthewaterfront wi-fi andshuttered windows. tiredbecome slightly buthave satellite TV, den (bothwi-fi areas). roomshave Standard and openingontoagorgeous courtyardgar- with beautifuloldcaneandinlaidfurniture, itselaboratemanor house, lobbydecked out creation isasuperbrenovated Peranakan and Hotel Puriisoneof them.Thiselegant www.lonelyplanet.com with live music. also ahealth spa,restaurant andlounge tea-making facilitiesandminibar. There’s All roomshave video,coffee- and inhouse hotel. located modernhigh-rise Centrally & SatRM188; 1-bedaptSun-Thu RM168,Fri JlnMerdeka; mahkota.com.my; .com; 138 Jln Bendahara; rwithbreakfast RM250; .com; 138JlnBendahara; ai Jln Tun Tan ChengLock;d/fwithbreakfast RM110/305; Mahkota; rRM145; Mahkota; Century Mahkota Hotel Hotel Mahkota Century Hotel Orkid Orkid Hotel Seri Costa Hotel CostaHotel Seri Fenix Inn Hotel Puri Puri Hotel o a ) Chinatown has some fine buildings, Chinatownhassomefinebuildings, ) Lodginghere positionsyouright as Heeren House Heeren

( ( % % ( % ai a ) 281 5511;www.fenixinn.com; 156 Occupying a huge section Occupyingahuge section 282 5588; www.hotelpuri.com; 118 282 5588;www.hotelpuri.com; 282 5555;www.hotelorkidmelaka ) ( Amodern,cleanand %

) godown 281 6666;JlnPM 8,Plaza ( Very newandspot- ( % % 281 4241;www.melaka 281 2828;www.century largely over- a ) .com; JlnParameswara; dRM410-490; and restaurants. video.with inhouse There’s afitnesscentre all roomscomewithbath,fridge andTV tached. Upperfloors have goodviewsand carbuncular extensiondeserted eyesore at- establishment agreat option–despitethe around RM80toRM100)make smart this .com; Jln Bendahara; rwithbreakfast RM398; .com; JlnBendahara; [email protected]; Jl Bendahara; dRM470; [email protected]; JlBendahara; tre, tennis courtand wi-fi access. pool, ladies-onlyaqualityfitnesscen- presentation iscrisp.There’s aswimming iswell-mannered andtheoverallstaff hotel rates ataroundRM218).The usually start elegant choiceandpromotional (weekday discounts make thisanattractive andquite cuisine at RestorandeLisbon ( p240 ) in Kristang hunt down Portuguese-influenced also thehomeof Eurasianfood; Portuguese – is thebestinMalaysia.laksa Melaka is cooking; theclassic Nonyadishof Melaka – nesian influence)isacelebrated school of (Nonya; prepared here Indo- withasalty multicultural DNA.Peranakan cuisine Melaka’s food mirrors thecity’seclectic, EATING GrandContinental Hotel Top End RM210; hotels.com.my; 20JlnTun Lanang;dwithbreakfast Sri (which hasregular live music). the squashcourtsorsinkadrinkinpub offthelobby,buildupasweatin midnight) the tasteful Famosa Lounge (open11amto over Relaxin Melaka andfive-star service. beds,longviews with comfyRenaissance decorated andfurnished roomsequipped offers Renaissance rise spacious,tastefully Plush andwellmanaged, theeleganthigh- speaking lift.Fish forpromotionalprices. tuitous extraisthegratingcomputerised kidney-shaped poolanddanceclub.Agra- invigorating edge, withsportsbar,smallish Renovated in2006,thishotel hasafresh and tional rates make itgoodvalue. and there’s alackof charm, butpromo- as rwithbuffet breakfast RM250; Abdullah; 123 JlnMunshi Hotel Equatorial Equatorial Hotel City BayviewHotel Emperor Hotel Emperor Hotel o is ) Excellent promotionalratesExcellent (doubles Renaissance Melaka Hotel Hotel Melaka Renaissance ) It’s inthecharacterless north ( % ( ( % % 284 0777;[email protected]; MELAKA ••Eating MELAKA 282 8333;www.equatorial

283 9888;www.bayviewintl ( % 284 0088;www.ghi as ( % ) 284 8888; as as Good 239

) )

MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA specials with10varietiesof veg (RM5). (RM5.50) plusFridayafternoon vegetarian ened bread), chicken tandoori meals set Kubu; mealsRM10; its charms. The deeply set interiorits charms. is in- set Thedeeply town Peranakan restaurant andsoakup atthisspaciousand airyChina- a table & dinner;mealsRM13) Melaka Raya 3;mealsRM15; Raya Melaka cheap curries, band of and localpatronsorderingtasty noodle soup;RM4)andmore. soup(vegetablegie ducklamee duckin wholemealbread roll(RM3),veg-seaweed andsour‘veggie chicken’to sweet (RM8), themenuruns for thelocalguesthouses, veggie dishesandcleansurrounds.Handy ing forinexpensive organic Chinese-style livers carrion-free caloriesifyou’re search- vegetarianChinese healthfoodeatery de- Restoran Amituofoh Restoran Restaurants encounter. curry’isworthan rice, butthefiery‘devil Medan and Portugis–it’smostlyseafood 240 Tan ChengLock;mealsRM18; expensive home-cooked Peranakan cuisine. has agreat reputation foritsexcellentandin- h lunch &dinner) byvoluntarydonation; BandarHilir; Mahkota, wholemeal bread buns. vegetables, lunches and brown-riceset offers arange of healthyuncooked, crisp in Chinatown,thishealth-consciousspot corner fromtheBuddhistGuanyinTemple prices andreliable standards. avariety of Nonyadishes atdecent serving permitted). foodawayisnotand cutlerytaking conditions (youmustwashyourownplates theretion ifyouwish, otherwise are few Youmaymakeon thehouse. acontribu- ously breaks therulesbyproviding food gift of philanthropist–gener- aChinese This Buddhistvegetarian restaurant –the that there’s nosuch thingasafree meal. h Vegan Salad&HerbsHouse Bayonya Peranakan Restoran Ole Sayang Restoran Wuguzhan Restoran Selvam Selvam breakfast, lunch&dinner) 10am-10pm Wed-Mon) MELAKA ••Eating MELAKA ( % ( % Conventional wisdomdictates 281 9223;3JlnTemenggong; mealsRM8; ( h % 292 2192;164JlnTMR;mealsRM15; roti canai 10am-4pm Fri-Wed) 10am-4pm Fri-Wed) 283 1966;198JlnTMR;

Famed Nonya restaurant ( %

This authenticeatery ( 292 6426;2-20JlPM9, Plaza ( Kept busybyitsloyal % h % h (flaky, flatunleav- 282 1918;256-257Jln lunch &dinner) 284 5001;107JlnTun lunch &dinner) ( % 282 9466;22Jln Around the h h breakfast, This Book lunch dishes onthemenu. There’s alarge range of chicken andfish (Saturday andSundayRM35)are popular. dinners(Monday toSundayRM35)andset lunchestroduced byagorgeous lobby.Set Fri, 11am-midnightSat&Sun) Fri, Lock; mealsRM30; sive winelist. and atopromanticdiningchoice. Impres- unhurriedandintimateoughly ex perience finely crafted ambience. Howard’sisathor- allcontribute toa and unobtrusive service cuisine (lobster bisque,roastrackof lamb) check tiledfloor,flavoursome international linen, elegantfurniture, black-and-white- gis; mealsRM50; curry (RM10). Try thechilli crabs (RM20)orthedevil atthisrestaurant.dishes atoutdoortables Malay-PortuguesePortugis andsample takeSaturday evenings atripouttoMedan an interior courtyard. from nut tree proudlyintothesunlight rises offerings.other tasty Thenamesake coco- slow-roasted shoulderof pork(RM25)and roastchicken rosemary selection, (RM22), restaurant. Themenuboastsapopularpizza phere upstairs anddownatthisbar-cum- there’s oodlesof invitingspaceandatmos- sounding like but aCheratingguesthouse, RM45; hind Medan Portugis. Lisbon). It’sonthestreet immediately be- Malay-Portuguese meals(like Restorande This placehasacosy,localatmosphere has prawns, broccoli andcauliflower steepedin prawn chowder (RM15) ispregnant with Thecolonialan international selection. large and array of dishes,seafood Chinese of toa food,from Nonyaspecialsthrough choice the nailonheadwithatantalising Harper’s (norelation totheauthor)hashit theexcellent menu.ceiling andperuse measurea linen-drapedtable, upthehigh with overhead fansbattlingtheheat.Sitat atmosphere, it’sidealforromanticmeals, history andstyle. Strongoncharacter and River, diningatHarper’s is amatter of both godown perch overlooking theMelaka RM40; Restoran deLisbon Restoran Harper’s San Pedro Howard’s Coconut House h h lunch &dinner) lunch &dinnerWed-Mon) ( % ( ( % % h h 282 8800; 2 & 4 Lg Hang Jebat; meals 282 8800;2&4LgHangJebat; ( 286 8727; 5 Jln Hang Lekir; meals 286 8727;5JlnHangLekir; 284 5734;4JlnD’Aranjo; lunch &dinner) % 2pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 2pm-1am 282 9128;128JlnTun Tan Cheng

( % Enjoying aglorious www.lonelyplanet.com It’s acheesy name, 284 8067; Medan Portu- 284 8067;Medan OnFridayand Uncreased h dinner)

snacks fromRM2.50; breakfast RM6; Tun Tan ChengLock;mealsRM8; restaurant here maybeclosed. time thisbookwenttopress the weheard lunches. Atthe foodandset and Portuguese caffeine. Alsoonthemenuare Peranakan delivers powerful,hand-shakingbursts of andtherichis delectable AikChongcoffee other trendy arrivals,buttheapplecrumble late brownie).Thecaféismore than staid apple-crumble pieandicecream (orchoco- tea/coffee withfast slotfortheRM6set hotel of name,make thesame thisabreak- bread; RM2.50). and apple pies(RM3.50), applepies(RM3.50) (RM2.50),pine- tarts blueberry andcheese asmallrange ofdoes bite-size snacks,from relaxing Malay-run Chinatown snackshop RM15). or theNonyachap choy (mixed vegetables; andlocalspices;RM17) sauce in tamarind for thefishgerang asam(snappercooked a hollowed-outbun.ForNonyadishes, aim in a rich mushroom-scented soup,allserved www.lonelyplanet.com from SoutheastAsia andaNonyamenu. screens, amishmash of decorative objects original tilesalongthewall,lovely carved is thishigh-ceilinged Peranakan café,with HeritageNext totheBaba-Nonya Museum feasting. great funandachance forsomegregarious Dininghere sauce). into scorching is satay and vegetables which youcookbydipping stickladenwithrawmeat celup: asatay veg-kebabs (andthatelusive speciality upvery moreish meat-and serves tol Satay one of thecheapest outfitsintown,Capi- Limau-Limau Café Cafés net access (per half-hour RM3). net access(perhalf-hour milk shakes (RM6.50toRM7.50)orinter- to RM6.90),fruitjuices(RM4RM5), Take sandwiches(RM3.90 forsalads, aseat interiorrooms andapleasant courtyard. this quietcaféextendsseveral through dark-coloured ceramicsandanartytwist, Lock; cappuccinoRM6.90; meals RM8) Capitol Satay Capitol Tart & Tart Bakery Bakery & Tart Tart 1511 Cafe Heeren House Heeren kaya (coconut-cream jamspread on Usually packed tothegillsand ( h %

( h breakfast, lunch&dinner) 286 0151;www.café1511.com;52Jln % ( ( % % 8.30am-5.30pm) 281 4241;1JlTun Tan ChengLock; ( % 283 5508; 41 Lg Bukit China; 283 5508;41LgBukit 698 4917;89JlnTun Tan Cheng

i 282 1181; 45 Lg Hang Jebat; 282 1181;45LgHangJebat; ) h Decorated with 10am-6pm Thu-Tue) Thissimple, Inthe satay Nancy’s Kitchen onabloodlessdiet. ter RM17)forthose dishes andveggie options(vegetarian plat- supplementedweek, withinternational Nonya specialsmenu(RM20)appears every in itscool,centralcourtyard.Adifferent andterrific homemadefoodserved setting ers Melaka recommended ishighly forthe shop inanoldNonyabuilding,theJonk- h ing insteameddumplings. fast, lunch&dinner)SimpleChinesecoffee shopspecialis- h (near JlnTMRroundabout) hara) Teck AnnPharmacy Also lookoutforChinese (RM1); hotorcold,it’sareal thirst quencher. street vendors water-chestnut forsweet tea (RM1), soyamilk(RM1)orstopbyChinese sugar-cane Fordrinks,quaff tarts. juice strips; 250gmRM26)andNonyapine apple bread sticks;40sen), onthestreets include Eats Quick Eats UE Tea House asomewhatshakyallure.maintain River, late closingandoutsideseating mediocre, butthelocationnearMelaka strollandthefoodis things ataserious Jebat; mealsRM20; Jebat; h Indian hawker stalls Indianhawker the night-time rice-flour, withvegetables; stuffed RM3). the andchilliegg paste inasoft RM2) or sleeve; the Nonyapopiah Western dishes. Forcheap snacks,sample clude cafés andrestaurants. will rate asMelaka’s largest mall,and in- Pahlawan Dataran colossal onJlnMerdeka of writing(due toopenAugust2006),the favourites. Underconstructionatthetime 1st floorhastheusualMalaysian hawker the foodcourtonthe ern fastfood,though down theroadismostlyacentre forWest- time ofglasses chrysanthemumtea (RM1). Also recommended: Jonkers Melaka Restoran Restoran Melaka Jonkers Café Discovery The Mahkota Parade shopping complex Bulldog Café Outdoor hawker venues include theday- lunch &dinner) lunch) Serves cheapNonyasetlunches. lunch) Serves breakfast, lunch&dinner; inLittleIndia,andthebusy pai tee(crispycone-shapedmorselsof Centrepoint food court foodcourt Centrepoint (20 Lg Bukit China;mealsRM8; (20LgBukit (15 Jln Hang Lekir; mealsRM8; (15JlnHangLekir; h (145 Jln Bendahara; mealsRM10; (145 JlnBendahara; Nonya, Chinese, Thaiand Nonya, Chinese, (58 JlnBungaRaya) (3 Jln Bunga Raya; mealsRM10; (3 JlnBungaRaya; noon-5pm) (lettuce,beansprouts, . MELAKA ••Eating MELAKA rougan i

pharmacies such as ( % (Jln Munshi Abdullah) Munshi (Jln A caféinacraft ) The staff take The staff 283 5578;17JlHang youtiao (fried (dried meat serving tall tall serving Malay stalls Malay (Jln Benda- (Jln h break- 241

;

MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA 7pm) .my; 83 Jln Hang Jebat; largeTiger.my; 83JlnHangJebat; beerRM17.20; mosquito repellent. is generally eitherat8.30pmor9pm.Take it’s quite good theatre. TheEnglishversion strongly nationalisticangle;nevertheless, lit uptopresent Melaka’s historyfroma The soundsystem boomsandtheruinsare lar formof touristentertainment. evening de Santiago,thisisMelaka’s mostpopu- Parade, Jln Merdeka; tickets RM6) tickets Parade, JlnMerdeka; of peach wine). from tequila toThunderbird(apotent kind everything shopflogging away Chinese Lock; by local artistCharles Cham, including art and T-shirts. Branches allstock work 242 per 30minutes. ice rounditalloff.Internet accessisRM3 RM8) andlaid-back, butprofessional, serv- local andWestern dishes(mealsaround choice Atasty of toJJCale. Chuck Berry gnarledclassicsfrom through as heeases applaud resident artist-musicianMrBurns amidthethrongsand yourself withabeer Seat isagodsend. war cornershophouse, andlate hours,outside seating inapre- threads), assorted bric-a-brac andcrafts. lamps, coins, range of antiquefurniture, porcelain,old tial. Shops are stocked withanimpressive town. Pricesare isessen- andhaggling high St) andJlnTunTan ChengLockinChina- tique shopsalongJlnHang Jebat (Jonkers Take themanyan- timestrollingthrough SHOPPING Sound &LightShow ENTERTAINMENT by theMelaka River. Large, smartbarinanoldcolonialbuilding Café Geographér DRINKING cheap, butit’sbursting withcharacter. the gillswithantiquesandreplicas –it’snot huge to shopinanelegantbuilding stuffed h Thu-Tue) 1am Wed-Sun) Golden Screen Cinemas Golden Screen X-Tracts aaa House Malaqa LiquorShop Kee Kia Orangutan House shows 8.30-9.15pm) This isanatmospheric, quaintoldtake- h MELAKA •• Drinking ••Drinking MELAKA These bright and colourful shops sell andcolourfulshopssell bright These 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat&Sun) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri,

( % Thisventilated, breezy barwith 284 3271;JlnLaksamana;CarlsbergRM8) songket (silkwoven with gold ( ( % % (Son etLumiere; adult/childRM10/2; (59 Lg Hang Jebat; (59 LgHangJebat; Held nearthePorta

281 6813;www.geographer.com 281 4770;70JlnTun Tan Cheng (82 Jln Bunga Raya; (82 JlnBungaRaya; ( % hasfourscreens 281 0018; 2nd fl Mahkota 281 0018;2ndflMahkota h h 10am-6pm h 10.30am- 10am- . A Hang Jebat Thursday). (closed Tan Tuesday)and12Jln ChengLok(closed captions. Otherbranches are at96JlnTun printed T-shirts (RM30)withlight-hearted 8.30am, butit’sbesttobookthedaybefore. the wharf.Same-daytickets are after onsale well asa and entertainmentculturalfacilities,as plex of cafésandrestaurants shops,salons, will rate asMelaka’s largest mall:avastcom- Pahlawan Dataran colossal onJlnMerdeka (scheduled toopenlate August2006),the price fromRM180toRM2000. beaded slippers forwomen,rangingin who fashionsgorgeous handmadeNonya (his apprenticeship beganattheage of six) Mr Limisasecond-generation craftsman Century Mahkota Hotel. Century High-speed High-speed Boat ( to/from Melaka, although There are currently nodomesticflights Air from PortDickson. andjust94km224km fromJohor Bahru THERE&AWAY GETTING Melaka is144kmfromKualaLumpur, Johor Bahru (RM14.60, 3½hours),Johor Ipoh Bahru mately hourly),KL (RM9.40,two hours), pore (RM16,4½hours, departures approxi- to Chinatown.Frequent headtoSinga- buses cost aroundRM15, oryoucantake bus17 the northof intotownshould town.Ataxi Tesco in offJlnTunRazak, onJlnCempaka, veniently located opposite ahuge branch of isincon- bus station modern long-distance Melaka thehuge, well-designed Sentral, Bus PM2, PlazaMahkota) at theDumaiFerry Service six hours) inSumatra. Tickets are available to Pekan (oneway/return Baru RM120/210, citizens of mostcountries.Ferries also run is avisa-free entryportintoIndonesiafor from Dumaiat10.30amand1pm. return RM80/150,1¾hours). Boatsreturn twice dailyat9amand3pm(oneway/ trip fromMelaka toDumaiinSumatra % Lim Trading Under constructionatthetimeof writing 282 9597;JlnMerdeka) padang ferries ( % andotherticket officesnear for sportingevents. 292 6812;63JlnTokong)

( % has an office inthe hasanoffice www.lonelyplanet.com 281 6766) ( % Malaysia Airlines Malaysia 286 1811;G35Jln make the Busy

Cempaka, Peringgit Jaya) Cempaka, the LavenderMRT (see station p584 ). Singapore orfromanagent operatingoutof booked in attheLavenderStbusstation p239). (see Mahkota Hotel 1.45pm) fromtheCentury part dailytoSingapore (RM20,4½hours, Taxis fromMelaka costaroundRM40. north-south linefromKLtoSingapore. north of Melaka atTampin onthemain restaurants. for hotels inMelaka, amoneychanger and counter also anaccommodationreservation at Melaka isRM2perbag.There is Sentral Muar (RM3.90,onehour).Luggage deposit Kuala hours) (RM33,eight and hours), Bharu Kota (RM39.40,10hours), (RM14.50, 4½hours), (RM21,six Kuantan Jerantut (RM16.70,five hours), Mersing tures forButterworth (RM33.35,twohours), 1½ hours). There are alsolessfrequent depar- (RM25, sixhours) (RM5.50, andSeremban www.lonelyplanet.com there are alsoafew bike-hire outfitsaround and hotels for aroundRM10 aday; houses andonto Medan(40 sen) Portugis(80 sen). ping complex, to Taman Melaka Raya town, pastthehuge Mahkota Parade shop- utes fromMelaka tothecentre of Sentral 15min- ice istownbus17,runningevery easily explored serv- onfoot,butauseful 9km northof thetowncentre. M Melaka’s Berendam, airportisatBatu AROUND GETTING The nearest trainstation Train RM120). Kuala LumpurInternational Aiport(KLIA; (RM90), Mersing (RM200),KL(RM130)and (RM200),Seremban (RM100), Johor Bahru rates: Whole-taxi PortDicksonstation. Taxis leave bus fromthelong-distance Taxi Try system requiresone-way traffic patience. of Ifdriving,Melaka’s insuranceandtax. Wira 1.5Lautomatic;pricesare inclusive per day(permonthRM1900)foraProton Car-hire pricesbeginataroundRM168 Car From Singapore, toMelaka buses canbe Bicycles canbe hired at someguest- Hawk ( % Luxury buses 283 7878; 52 Jln Cempaka, Taman283 7878;52JlnCempaka, Seri .

( ( % % 441 1034) 645 3218) is38km also de- elaka is elaka is the Forest; admissionfree) adult/child RM4/2; is of neighbouring Asean countries.Alsohere from all13Malaysian states,aswellthose park thathasexamplesof traditionalhouses utes), willcostaroundRM20. ora taxi on townbus19fromMelaka (RM1,30min- AyerKerohestry museum. canbereached 250m canopywalk,picnicareas andafor- part landscapedparkwithpaved trails,a the modation functioningon theislandwas with junglewalks. and thehillyisland iscloaked ingreenery water isalittleclearer thanonthemainland here isforthecleanwhite-sandbeaches. The during WWII,butthemainreason tocome and reminders of theJapanese occupation weekend getaway, withafew historicgraves Melaka and5kmoffthecoast,isapopular The smallislandof southeastof Pulau Besar, % PULAU BESAR lushly landscaped includethe Sights on weekdays. deserted eral contrived touristattractions,largely Keroh (alsospelledAirKeroh) hassev- About 15kmnortheastof Melaka, % Ayer AYER KEROH AROUND MELAKA town, includingJinFu Shin Sanctuary and Reptile adult/child RM7/4; RM5/3; per dayRM6; surcharge 1amand6am. between trip anywhere aroundtownwitha50% within thetown,butyou’llhave tobargain. about RM30,orRM10foranyone-waytrip ageing mods.Bythehourtheyshouldcost ers, gaudyparasolsandbells–abitlike plasticgarlandsofwith flashinglights, flow- are becomingincreasingly kitsch, festooned the olddrivers iskeen andtheirvehicles popular touristoption.Competitionamong At thetimeof writing,theonlyaccom- Taxis should costaroundRM10fora Taking toMelaka’s streets bytrishawisa AirKeroh Hutan Rekreasi 06 06 Chandek Kura Resort Taman Malaysia/Asean Mini h AROUND MELAKA ••AyerKeroh AROUND MELAKA 9am-6pm) h 9.30am-7pm) h h , part secondary jungleand , partsecondary . Themainattractionis 9am-6pm) 9am-6pm) Melaka Zoo Melaka ( % . ( % (Air Keroh Recreational Recreational (Air Keroh Butterfly Butterfly the and 232 0033;adult/child , alarge theme (55 JlnParameswara; 295 5899;chalet d/tr

( ( % % 232 1350; 233 2239;

243 MELAKA MELAKA MELAKA turn RM100; depart fromtheAnjungBatujetty the jetty. and avanferrying gueststotheresort from the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow, orresell it. See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake andTradition of Custom The square isalsothesite of theMuseum colourful arrayof gailypainted shophouses. and grassy esque townof AlorGajah isthecharming Melaka, thehubof thesmallandpictur- On theroadtoKualaPilah,24kmnorthof RM118/138; 244 © LonelyPlanetPublications 5468) tering aboatfrom Umbai, southeastof Melaka. kilometresis several pasttheoldpierat 6.30pm (lastboatreturns at7pm).Thejetty at 8am,10am,12pm,2.30pm,5pmand rites. Ask aboutthetombs inthemuseum ding customs,bridalgiftsandceremonial exhibits amodestcollectionof Malay wed- such as tocharterneed aboatfromenterprises inMelaka.on JlnKota FromUmbaiyou’ll Thu, Sat&Sun,9am-12.15pm2.45-5.30pmFri) hour bylocalbus2fromMelaka. Boats (adult/child RM12/9,25minutes) Pulau Besar canalsobereached bychar-Pulau Besar You canreach eitherjettyinlessthanan , fromthejettybehindtouristoffice AROUND MELAKA •• Alor Gajah ••AlorGajah AROUND MELAKA BoatServices Azrin as h , bordered Square bya Alor Gajah 24hr) ) , withgoodair-con chalets . Parameswara Tours

(RM1; h ( % 9am-5.30pm Wed, 019-3077775; re- ( % 261 0492) , which ( % 286

RM100, chaletsSun-Thu &SatRM150; RM130,Fri Tampintween andMelaka, viaAlorGajah. Tai Lyebus26(RM2.30),which travels be- Alor Gajah toMelaka. busstation Take the quick inspection. square; someonemayescortyouover fora situated intheprimaryschool justoffthe of Britishsoldiers killedin1832,which are costs RM6. ResortorKampung Batu Balik dara Beach jid Tanah, fromwhere toTanjung ataxi Bi- chalet guesthouses. pung BalikBatuare simplebeachside several the colourful,friendlyMalay village of kilometresout several alongthebeach. In swimming poolandrestaurant. Beach Resort Beach Resort to thebeach. ricepaddiesandfarmstogetroads through requiringmain highway, youtotake back beach.a pleasant It’swellawayfromthe of Melaka onthewaytoPortDickson,is Tanjung Bidara,about 30kmnorthwest % TANJUNG BIDARA a

quiet andrelaxing resort withasmall There dailyfromthe are buses several Buses 42and47fromMelakaBuses gotoMas- There isbudget accommodationstrung The mainbeach area isat 06 ( % 384 2990;twSun-Thu &Sat RM70,Fri www.lonelyplanet.com Tanjung Bidara as Kam- ) ,