CHAPTER 5

Archeological & Historic Resources ike its counterpart west of Greenfield, the eastern section of the Scenic Byway is steeped in regional and local history. With the retreat of the L glaciers 12,000 years ago, Native Americans (Squakeag and Pocumtuck) began to occupy the area. They hunted, fished, and traded in the area near the Millers and Rivers. They cultivated the floodplains and created foot paths throughout north central . One such pathway became an east- west trail from Athol to Greenfield. The Europeans from the Valley later used this trail to settle the northern interior of and for commerce by horse and cart. Later, entrepreneurs from the cities in eastern New England built the Fifth Massachusetts Turnpike west from Leominster to Greenfield via Athol along much of the original pathway that had been created by these first Americans

Over time this original Native With the arrival of the automo- American footpath was changed bile and its increased use, the road and improved to accommodate from Greenfield to Williamstown, new modes of transportation and was officially opened in 1914 as infrastructure – stagecoaches, the Mohawk Trail, one of the first wagons, trains, automobiles and tourist highways in the country. bridges. The road that is known The eastern section which today as the Mohawk Trail was followed county roads and the moved at different times and has Fifth Massachusetts Turnpike been part of various roadway through the villages of Athol, improvement projects. Conse- Orange, Erving, Millers Falls, and quently, it is difficult to give a Turners Falls to Greenfield was brief summary of its development added to the Mohawk Trail later. without describing these other road In 1953, the State designated a development projects. portion of Route 2 from Greenfield to Erving, and in 1994, Route 2A in Orange and Athol was added Chapter 429 AN ACT DESIGNATING A PORTION OF THE STATE when the Mohawk Trail earned the HIGHWAY KNOW AS ROUTE 2 AS THE MOHAWK TRAIL designation as a Scenic Byway. Be it enacted, etc., as follows: For the eastern portion of the Mohawk Trail, tourist amenities That portion of the state highway known as Route 2, like the Pequoig Hotel in Athol, beginning at the junction of the highway know as U.S. Route 7 on roadside cabins in Erving, and the the Main Street in the Town of Williamstown and extending Weldon Hotel in Greenfield were easterly through the Town of Greenfield to the junction of the built in the late 1800s and early state highway known as Route 63 in the Town of Erving shall be 1900s to accommodate people who known and designated as the Mohawk Trail, and suitable markers came to see the sites, explore the bearing said designation shall be erected and maintained along picturesque hillsides and water- said highway by the state department of public works. ways, and spend time in the area. Approved June 1, 1953 In 1932, the road was modernized By the Massachusetts Legislature. and re-routed around Millers and

76 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Turners Falls crossing the Connecticut River on the French Archaeological King Bridge. The new road run- ning from Erving through Gill was Resources called the French King Highway. While people started calling Native American the road the Mohawk Trail in the early 1900s, the State officially Use of Area designated both the east and west Native American residents of the sections as the Mohawk Trail in area included the Pocumtucks in 1953 through an act of the legisla- the Connecticut Valley at ture making it a modern tourist Deerfield, just south of Greenfield, highway from in Erving to and the Squakeags, the southern- Williamstown. That same year, most group of the Western Route 2 was constructed to bypass Abenaki in Northfield north of Gill downtown Athol and Orange. Ten and Erving. The two tribes hunted, years later, Route 2 was extended fished and cultivated maize along from the western end of the French the Millers and Connecticut King Highway to Interstate 91 by- Rivers. passing downtown Greenfield. Little or no information about The portions of the Mohawk Trail prehistoric sites and artifacts is that run through the downtowns of available along the eastern Byway Athol and Orange and follow High corridor, so only general descrip- and Main Streets through down- tions and locations are included in town Greenfield are now Route this report. However, because the 2A. Squakeags and Pocumtucks estab- The history of the eastern sec- lished villages in Northfield and tion of the Mohawk Trail Scenic Deerfield respectively, Native Byway region is a significant Americans made a significant con- component of the Corridor tribution to the region and Management Plan. The region’s ultimately to the creation of the history shaped the roadway. Its Byway. It is their knowledge of unique glacial, Paleo-Indian activ- the region for hunting, gathering, ity, European settlement pattern, fishing and trapping that estab- and natural, architectural and lished the trail system that became industrial resources play a signifi- the pathways and roads that were cant role in helping residents and later used by European settlers. visitors alike to enjoy and under- The routes were used for stand the area. Consequently, it is commerce and laid the foundation important to preserve these assets for the Mohawk Trail along the for future generations. Millers and Connecticut Rivers This chapter provides insight that is now the Scenic Byway. into the development of the area prior to, during and after the con- struction of the Mohawk Trail. It Architectural and is intended to help tell the story of the Byway and aid communities in Industrial determining how best to use and Resources develop the Mohawk Trail in the This portion of the chapter identi- future. fies important locations and prop-

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 77 erties in each town within the mile- the economy and included the ver- wide Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway nacular row houses for factory study area (1/2 mile on each side workers and the grand homes of of the Byway). Tables with the factory owners. Architectural significant historic areas and prop- styles range from simple Cape, erties in each community are Greek Revival and Federal style included in the appendices. Prop- structures to more ornate Queen erties listed in the chapter and the Anne, Empire and Italianate build- appendices are designated accord- ings. A wide inventory of these ing to the definitions in the State architectural styles can be seen Resister of Historic Places, 2006, along or near the Byway. which are defined as follows:

NRIND:National Register of History of the Individual Property NRDIS: National Register District Communities along NRMRA:National Register the Scenic Byway: Multiple Resource Area (refers to community-wide or area-wide European designation that includes Settlement to the nomination of both individual and district properties). Present NRAD:National Register Each of the towns – Athol, Orange, Archaeological District Erving, Wendell, Gill, Montague and Greenfield – along the eastern Water power provided by three portion of the Scenic Byway have great rivers, the Millers, interesting histories that are inter- Connecticut and Green, and woven and present a truly unique numerous small tributaries enabled and fascinating story of the Byway towns along the Byway to become and north-central Massachusetts. prosperous industrial communities. Their stories are intertwined with From Athol to Greenfield, dams the Millers and Connecticut Rivers and large mill buildings were con- and their tributaries, which have structed. Prior to the construction always been the focal point for set- of the railroads, the Byway was the tlement and industrial development principal means of transporting for these communities. goods to, from and through the Native Americans – the area via horse and wagons. Pocumtucks and Squakeags – es- The mills and dams of the tablished trails along these water- Byway region were 18th Century ways where access to fish and monoliths of industrial develop- wildlife provided food and cloth- ment. The prosperity of the indus- ing for their tribes. Later Europe- trial era was visible on the main ans settled the land and established streets and neighborhoods of the communities along the rivers be- communities along the Byway. cause of the hydropower for their Three and four-story commercial/ mills, good farm soils, and forest industrial buildings were prevalent resources in the region. In modern in the larger communities where times, the rivers, forests, working the rivers powered the mills. The lands, and mountains still sustain residential development reflected the communities along the two rivers and their tributaries by

78 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield providing scenic, recreational, and families arrived in 1735 from tourist opportunities. Hatfield in the Connecticut River TURNPIKES This section discusses the sig- Valley. As Europeans proliferated, Turnpikes were designated nificant events and remarkable his- they improved the trails along the through an act of the toric structures that reflect the and Mill Brook and Massachusetts Legislature. region’s development and shaped established settlements in the As the Commonwealth grew the the communities along the Byway. highlands. Legislature named and Early on, residents voted to es- appropriated funds to improve tablish a saw (1736) and grist Athol roads across the State. For the purpose of this study, the (1737) mill and by 1760 a gristmill Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway was located on the Millers River Parts of the Mohawk Trail (MTSB) begins at the intersection near Freedom Street. included the Fifth of Routes 2, 2A and 202 in Athol Athol’s fortunes shifted from a Massachusetts Turnpike which east of downtown. Historically, poor agrarian economy during the ran from Leominster to Athol has played an important role Federal Period (1775-1830). It be- Greenfield and the Fourteenth for the Byway as an economic came a significant regional trans- Massachusetts Turnpike which center; it is located between portation center with the opening went from Greenfield to and the Connecticut River of the Fifth Massachusetts Charlemont. Valley and it is on the Millers Turnpike in 1800, which followed River, which powered the town’s Templeton Road, Main and industrial development. Chestnut Streets, South Athol Prior to the Colonial Period Road and an abandoned road to (1675-1775), Athol (originally Millers River Crossing and South known as Pequoig) was occupied Main Street. Parts of the Turnpike by the Squakeag, the southernmost later became the Mohawk Trail. group of the Western Abenaki. The population of Athol grew The Squakeag settled in Northfield steadily from 848 in 1775 to 1,325 to the northwest and visited and in 1830. Dispersed, upland, agri- occupied sites in Athol primarily cultural settlement continued near to hunt and fish near the Millers the town center as the Village of River. The tribe created trails Athol developed and an industrial along the river west to Millers focus emerged along the Millers Falls and north and south to River. A paper mill was built in Northfield, Royalston, and 1810, a cotton mill a bit later, and Petersham. Many of these foot- a scythe shop in 1815. Very little paths became the basis for the road of the rest of the town was farmed system that the Europeans would and remained unimproved and in develop for trade and commerce. wood lot. As Europeans moved to the After 1800, a small commer- area, the Squakeag sold1 their cial-residential center developed lands and moved north to trade near the 1773 meetinghouse and with the French and live among the area became the junction for other Abenaki tribes. Captain two turnpikes. Later, this would Zachariah Field purchased six- be known as Uptown Common. square-miles in 1720 which be- came Athol. The land was laid out The Early Industrial Period in 1732 and its first five colonial (1830-1870) brought many changes to the Village of Athol. 1. Frequently, Natives “sold” their land to Service on the and repay debts incurred through the fur trade. Massachusetts Railroad was estab-

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 79 industrial activity intensified along Mill Brook and the Millers River. At Athol Village further west on Main Street from Depot Village, institutional, commercial and resi- dential development grew. By the end of the period, Depot Village rivaled Upper Common as the town’s commer- cial and residential focus. Textile, boot, machine tool, wood and paper manufacturing located be- tween River and Main Streets in the east and between Main and South to the west. Exchange Street linked Main Street to the Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad depot. lished in 1849 connecting the town From 1870-1915 (Late Athol Depot restoration in 2007 – with Millers Falls, Brattleboro and Industrial Period), the Springfield, built 1872 Boston. Athol’s population grew, Athol and Northeastern Railroad doubling in 40 years. Manufactur- opened for service (1873) and an ing expanded, drawing immigrants electric streetcar service connected to town, and agriculture remained Athol to Orange (1884). Athol’s steady. The ethnic diversity of im- population tripled from 3,517 in migrants brought new churches – 1870 to 9,783 in 1915. Agricul- St. Catherine’s Roman Catholic tural employment remained con- Church in 1855 and St. John’s stant, while manufacturing contin- Episcopal Congregation in 1866. ued to grow. Settlement shifted from Upper Depot Village expanded fur- Common to Depot Village after ther as industrial development in- the rail connection of 1849 and as tensified along the Millers River

The Millers River Bank, now the Athol Savings Bank The Historic Pequoig Hotel

80 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield and a retail commercial center as the Town library (1918), the grew around Main and Exchange Memorial Building (1924) used for Streets. The most significant in- the Town Hall, the Athol Savings dustrial growth occurred on the Bank (1928), the York Building Millers River east of the Chestnut (1930), and the Garbose Building Street crossing, where major (1926). machine tool manufacturing facili- ties located in the 1880s and early Significant Architecture and 20th Century. Historic Sites in Athol Commercial in-fill and re- The Uptown Common area in placement occurred on Main and Athol is an example of fine resi- Exchange Streets. It included the dences with a traditional town landmark 1894 Pequoig Hotel, an green. impressive four-story brick build- Today, former residences also ing, and the Millers River National house shops and professional Bank, a three-story, brick offices. The Uptown Common Romanesque building – both at the area is an active mixed-use intersection of Main and Exchange neighborhood. Streets. Residential development The 1773 meeting house is proliferated throughout the town located just east of the common on center providing infill, creating Route 2A. It was remodeled in neighborhoods, and extending the 1847 to accommodate the town village boundaries. hall, which was on the second By the mid-1920s, as transpor- floor. Baptist services continued tation shifted to the automobile, until 1901 when the building was the Mohawk Trail was established sold to the Town. From 1921 to making possible auto touring from 1957, the building served as the Boston to the . The Woman’s Club. Since 1957, the Trail traveled through downtown building has housed the Athol Athol (Templeton Road-Main Historical Society. Street-South Main Street) and Uptown Common – Town Green connected with Route 32 to Petersham and Barre. In the mid- 1930s, newly constructed US Route 202 (Daniel Shays High- way) connected travelers to the Connecticut River Valley in Holyoke and Westfield. By 1940 a new Route 32 bypassed downtown Athol connecting with Route 202 to the west. Athol’s population growth be- gan to slow. From 1915 to 1940, the Town’s total population grew by only 14 percent, increasing from 9,793 people (1915) to 11,180 (1940). Significant civic and institutional buildings from the period include buildings in the downtown Main Street area, such

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 81 next to the Athol Librry and across Main Steet from the YMCA. This is a core area of historic buildings that serve the public in govern- ment, education and recreation.

Orange The Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway bisects the Town of Orange. It runs through Orange Center and West Orange and parallels the Millers River much of its way through town. Historically, with its location on the Millers River, extensive forest resources, and the establishment and modernization of its trails, roadways and rail lines, Orange has played a significant role in Franklin County Just west of Uptown Common, as its eastern employment and Athol’s first meeting house (1773.) Further west on the Byway, population center. across the Millers River from the Prior to the 1600s, native oc- large mills (Starrett Mill – Main cupation probably occurred pri- Street and Chestnut Hill Avenue), marily in the lowlands adjacent to there is factory housing on the hill- the Millers River, particularly in side. The mill buildings are mas- the vicinity of the villages of West sive and dwarf the vernacular ar- Orange and Orange Center. Due chitecture of the houses. to the terrain of the area, which is Further west on Main Street generally hilly with some low- (Mohawk Trail) in Athol’s town lands, native horticulture was lim- center travelers will find a New ited to the Millers River floodplain England streetscape with a railroad which also served as hunting and depot (just off Main Street on fishing grounds. South Street), town hall (Memorial By the early 17th Century, Building) and library, commercial Orange probably still had a moder- buildings (e.g. Starrett and Cooke ate sized native population since Blocks) and a number of more colonial settlement did not occur mills (near the Veterans Memorial until the mid-18th Century. The Park on Freedom Street). town may have been the rough di- The Memorial Hall Building is viding point between the territories the Athol Town Hall. It is located of the Pocumtuck of the TABLE 5-1 National Register of Historic Places and Districts in the Athol Study Area Designation and Name of Feature Location Date Date Built NRIND (11/17/1978) Pequoig Hotel 402-428 Main Street 1895

NRIND (6/16/1987) Old Town Hall - Athol Town Hall 1307 Main Street 1828

82 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Connecticut River Valley and the ened to accommodate wagons and Nipmucs of central and central coaches traveling to surrounding western Massachusetts. Also, the towns. The only documented in- Squakeags (the southern most dustrial facilities at the time were a group of Abenaki) traded and sawmill and a tannery established visited the area. All of the tribes by Nathan Goddard in c.1760. intermarried and shared the Settlement in Orange was an out- Algonquin language family. growth of settlement in Athol and The lack of early settlement is local settlers relied heavily on thought to be due to both the large Athol for supplies because of supply of higher quality farmland Orange's limited economic base. in the Connecticut River Valley In 1783, Orange was formed and the continued use of resources from portions of Athol, Royalston, by Native American communities, Warwick, New Salem and Erving. which they defended vigorously. The Town's first meetinghouse The primary east-west trail was was established in North Orange. along the Millers River with the In 1790, the first dam was built on north-south route traversing the the Millers River attracting new lands between Lake Mattawa and settlement and industries to Orange Tully Pond via an Orange Center Center. A bucket mill, sawmill fordway. and gristmill were the first of sev- Orange and neighboring towns eral prosperous industries, while were first settled by Europeans agriculture remained the predomi- during the Colonial Period be- nant land use. Eventually, com- tween 1675 and 1775. Settlers mercial and industrial employment practiced subsistence farming, in Orange Center transformed the grazing and hay production. The social, economic, and physical average farmstead was one shape of Orange, which incorpo- hundred acres and included a rated in 1810. house, barn, small garden, and Agricultural land was aban- orchard. Some eighty percent doned in the outlying areas, while (80%) of the forested land was new houses were built in clusters cleared for pastures and fields. along the Millers River and its Homes tended to be dispersed tributaries where small dams and across the hilly terrain and along mills were established, e.g. waterways, following the natural Putnam Mill on Moss Brook. A lay of the land, forming village gridiron street system was adopted centers like North Orange, Tully, for Orange Center and neighbor- and West Orange.2 hoods developed. Civic and insti- Like Athol, the early economy tutional buildings were erected as of Orange was farming. Gener- the population grew. Stagecoach ally, everything was made in the lines carried mail and passengers home – cloth, woolens, soap, around town and tollhouses dotted cheese, honey and sausages. the landscape. New roads and Maple sugar production was intro- turnpikes linked the Town to the duced by the Native Americans region for trade opportunities. and continued by the colonists, Early manufacturing in Orange who planted sugar maples along included a scythe shop (1803) and the edges of roads that were wid- forest products from nearby land 2. Franklin County Commission, 1992. including pails, bedsteads, and

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 83 boxes. Also, cloth, woolens, hides, manufactured goods from the bricks, earthenware, caned chairs, Connecticut River Valley. and iron works such as fireplace Rapid industrial development fixtures and candlesticks were followed the opening of regional manufactured. Factories requiring railroads in 1848 and later, during raw materials were built directly the Civil War (1863), sewing on the river’s edge and the need machine factories flourished. New for new transportation systems in- industries in Orange Center in- creased. Roadways extended cluded the woodworking and furni- throughout the growing Town. ture industry and various machine During the 1840s (Early shops. In the 1840’s, palm-leaf Industrial Period, 1830-1870), the hats were manufactured, and in railroad was developed and Orange 1845, a third of all the boots and Center became the town’s geo- shoes produced in Franklin County graphic, civic and commercial cen- were made in Orange. In 1865, ter. Several rail lines connected chair manufacturing employed one Orange to other regions. The hundred (100) men and women major east-west rail link from and represented the dominant Boston to Mechanicsville, Troy manufacturing industry. Some and Albany, New York, passed smaller mills were absorbed by through Orange Center. A trolley larger industries, like the New line between Orange and Athol Home Sewing Machine Company, connected passengers to the which built a large mill complex “Rabbit Railroad” to Springfield. on the site of an abandoned Finally, the Vermont and wooden pail factory in 1867. Massachusetts Railroad at Millers Company founder John Wheeler Falls traveled to Brattleboro with a was regarded as the Town’s most branch to Greenfield. Depots were prominent industrialist once the established along the Mohawk machines became a home neces- Trail at Orange Center and West sity. Also, an affluent residential Orange. With its proximity to district developed along Prospect Greenfield, Orange became a Street with a commercial district major hub for the distribution and along East Main Street. trade of raw materials and locally

84 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Grout Automobile Company

Between 1870 and 1915 (Late made Tapioca, and two tool plants, Industrial Period), Orange grew by (1903 and 1908). 157% to a total of 5,379 due to the The Grout Automobile expansion of the New Home Company, reputed to be the first Sewing Machine, Rodney Hunt, automobile plant in America, was and Chase Turbine companies. established in 1899 and produced Orange Center continued to be the one car a day. This early steam- center of economic and civic activ- powered machine was road tested ity. The commercial district re- on inclines like Walnut Hill and mained along East Main Street upper Mechanic Street, and with multiple story blocks on reached speeds of thirty (30) miles North-South Main Streets. The per hour. It received a gold medal civic focus centered on Prospect award for steam engine design at Street. Later in the period, consid- the Philadelphia Automobile show. erable expansion of industry arose By the Early Modern Period along East and Streets (1915-1940), the Town's major with residential development on growth had passed even though South Main and Walnut Hill there were spurts of economic de- Streets. North of the river, a more velopment in the late 1920's and modest residential district devel- 1930's. Thousands of acres of Former Minute Tapioca factory oped on Mechanic Street and West Main with a secondary village at West Orange. For most of the period, Orange's manufacturing economy was dominated by the New Home Sewing Machine Company, Rodney Hunt Machine Company (founded 1873), Chase Turbine, and a cluster of furniture manufac- turers. In the late 1880s, Orange began to attract new industries – a modern box factory, a shoe factory (1887), the Leavitt Machine Company (1890), Whitman Grocery Company (1894) which

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 85 Transportation modes shifted. The Athol-Orange trolley line was abandoned (1925) and county highways became regional auto roads. The primary east-west axis became Route 2 (now Route 2A and Mohawk Trail) through Orange Center to West Orange. The primary north-south highway was Route 122 following South Main Street. Orange Municipal Airport was located along East River Street at “The Plains” in 1935. By the mid-1920s, agriculture was no longer a primary industry. Wheeler Mansion (1910) – former abandoned farmland in town had Orange’s growth and economic an Eastern Star Home; now a reforested naturally. The Orange stability depended on manufactur- private residence State Forest was set aside for hunt- ing like Rodney Hunt. Later in the ing and recreation on three tracts 1920s and ‘30s, the Minute of land at the Town’s western Tapioca Company was a leading edge. Public parks like Butterfield employer manufacturing the des- Park were integrated into residen- sert food for worldwide distribu- tial neighborhoods to alleviate the tion. Another important firm was density of worker housing. Inter- NRG Industries (formerly the est in the rural landscape grew and Orange Foundry), which produced people were attracted to places like rough iron castings and wood Orange for recreation. The rail- burning stoves. roads and newly established auto After the 1940s, manufactur- routes such as the Mohawk Trail ing began to decline from its high- showed off the natural beauty and point earlier in the century. As architectural quality of the Town. roadways and auto travel competed Putnam Hall

86 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield with the rail system, small, re- gional industries gave way to lar- ger, centrally located plants in other parts of the country. As re- gional highways were expanded and improved, trucking moved goods more efficiently over long distances and automobiles became the primary mode of travel to com- mute to new job centers and for vacationing. Passenger rail service in Orange ended in the late 1950s. Orange Center expanded for a time, but soon housing began to spread to subdivisions on former agricultural land.

Significant Architecture and Historic Sites in Orange Downtown Orange has the vestiges of a historic mill town. Mills, Church (1900), Orange Savings Mill Buildings, Millers River and, commercial structures and residen- Bank (1874), Mann Block (1892– Scenic Byway tial neighborhoods are located on 1954), Wheeler Mansion (1910), both sides of the Millers River and most of the commercial build- along the Scenic Byway (Route ings on East Main Street. 2A) as well as on North and South To the south of the Byway and Main Streets, which cross the across the Millers River on South Millers River and the Mohawk Main Street (Route 122) Orange’s Trail in the center of town. town center is surrounded by resi- Travelers will discover exam- dential neighborhoods. The New ples of all types of commercial, in- Home Sewing Machine complex stitutional and residential architec- (three and four-story brick build- ture. The Eastern Star Home (now ings built in 1885), the Butterfield a private residence), the Wheeler School, originally the Orange High Memorial Library (1912), Putnam School, and the Congregational Opera House (1877), and the Church are located in this Minute Tapioca factory are all neighborhood. located directly on the Byway. The Universalist Church and Erving Center School (1890) are located From earliest times, Erving has next to each other and across from been an important transportation Town Hall (1900) and the Orange corridor to and from the central Historical Society on North Main highlands of Massachusetts and the Street. Other sites of interest in- Connecticut River Valley. It is clude the Fire Station on Water located between the two regions on Street, located near the World War the Mohawk Trail (Route 2). Each I Memorial Park on the north side day, thousands of travelers journey of the Millers River. through Erving on Route 2, experi- Other historic buildings in- encing one of America's historic clude Center Congregational highways and the rural landscape

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 87 TABLE 5-2 National Register of Historic Places and Districts in the Orange Study Area Designation Name of Feature Location Date Built NRDIS (4/27/1989) Orange Center Historic District NRDIS Orange Universalist Church 31 North Main St 1833 NRDIS Whipple Block 2 West Main Street 1844 NRDIS Orange Town Hall 6 Prospect St 1868 NRDIS Putnam Opera House Hall 7-9 West Main Street 1877 NRDIS Orange National Bank 12 North Main St 1881 NRDIS New Home Sewing Machine Company Foundry West River Street 1883 NRDIS Mattawa Block 17-21 West Main Street 1888 NRDIS New Home Sewing Machine Co. Storehouse West River Street 1892 NRDIS Central Congregational Church 93 South Main Street 1892 NRDIS Orange Masonic Block 9-13 South Main Street 1892 NRDIS Central School 32 North Main Street 1894 NRDIS Central School 32 North Main St 1894 NRDIS New Home Sewing Machine Co. Tumblers Bldg. West River Street 1898 NRDIS Wheeler Mansion 1910 NRDIS Orange War Memorial Park South Main Street 1932 Peace Monument – “It Shall Not Be Again” 1934

of a small New England town. Mohawk Trail) presents an expan- Route 2 through the Farley sive view across the Connecticut Flats contains one of the last re- River Valley to the Berkshire maining sections of a late eight- Hills. West of Farley, the present eenth century county highway, the Route 2 and Mohawk Trail reveal Fifth Massachusetts Turnpike. a broad prospect down the Millers Here, the Mohawk Trail has a River Valley. Route 63, which scenic, winding quality where intersects with the Scenic Byway, forest and road meet the river’s is home to several historic farm- edge and a panoramic view of the steads with panoramic views of Connecticut River Valley from the fields, rolling pastures, and the provides a Connecticut River Valley. spectacular western gateway for The Town of Erving is unique the town. in the region. It combines an in- Because Erving is situated on dustrial heritage with large tracts steep slopes overlooking the of protected forested and recrea- Connecticut and Millers River tional lands minutes from the Valleys, several of its scenic road- Byway. The Erving State Forest ways offer sweeping vistas across offers scenic forested roads and river lowlands. The western end pathways to Laurel Lake and ver- of historic Old State Road (original dant foot trails to Hermit’s Castle.

88 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Laurel Lake’s shores are home to steep slopes and sandy soils were several historic 1920s summer no match for the high quality agri- cottages. Northfield Mountain’s cultural lands prevalent in the hiking and skiing trails are a few Connecticut River Valley. miles north of the Mohawk Trail During the Colonial Period on Route 63. (1675-1775), Native American There are six historic bridges camps may have been established in Erving’s three industrial villages near Ervingside as part of the large – Erving Center, Farley, and population that occupied Deerfield, Ervingside – and on Route 63, East Greenfield, and Northfield during Mineral Road, and Route King Philip’s War in the 1600s. 2/Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway. In 1751, the Honorable John In addition to the historic and Erving, Esq. of Boston purchased scenic qualities of the Mohawk eleven thousand and sixteen Trail and the French King Bridge (11,016) acres of land, called the viewshed, Erving’s three villages “Great Farm” or “Erving’s Grant.” have important features including The property became the Town of homes constructed before 1915 Erving along with smaller grants that are historically significant and made in the 1730s to Clesson, historic mercantile and commercial Quincy and Hacks. buildings. During the Federal Period Prior to European settlement, (1775-1830), the Commonwealth Native Americans established a improved the east-west roadway foot path (later the Mohawk Trail) by establishing the Fifth through Erving along the north Massachusetts Turnpike in 1799. bank of the Millers River and a It followed the present Route 2A in north-south route from Montague Athol and Orange, Routes 2 and to Northfield (later the first county Old State Road in Erving. In road in Franklin County. 1732, Erving Center, the highway ran now River Road) along the over Prospect Street, with a toll- Connecticut River. A secondary gate at the eastern end, and then path from Erving Center followed along Gary Street. In Ervingside, Mountain Road to Northfield and the turnpike traveled through the Poplar Mountain Road went from Paper Mill complex crossing the the 5th Massachusetts Turnpike to Millers River on Paper Mill Road Northfield Farms and the ferry to Montague. crossing to Gill. All were used for Colonel Asaph White moved trade among the tribes of north- to Erving in 1801 to supervise central Massachusetts. turnpike construction from Archaeological sites are thought to Greenfield to Leominster. He built have existed in the vicinity of the first documented structure in Ervingside, and along the Millers Erving Center, a log house. In Historically, the Turnpikes, River where fish were plentiful. 1803, he also constructed the first which were established by the It is likely the Erving area was dam across the Millers River for a State to generate revenue, were occupied by either the Squakeag or sawmill. Within a few years, located on County highways. the Pocumtuck tribes, since the others moved to the area, attracted The State discontinued the Town was situated near the border by an abundance of waterpower Turnpikes between 1830 and between these two groups. Colo- and timber, and the proximity to 1850, because travelers avoided nial interest in Erving during the transportation routes. During the using them due to the tolls. period was limited – the Town’s next one hundred years, wood

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 89 shops and mills became common The abundance of lumber, in town as woodworking became waterpower and transportation the primary industry. helped Erving and Orange to Erving’s organization was lin- develop a strong woodworking and ear along the river valley. The furniture industry. By 1855, Erving Center and Holton Erving Center was home to the Cemeteries were established in Washburn’s chair shop, Baker’s 1814 and 1815, respectively. In chair seat millworks, Trask’s 1820, the first schoolhouse was match woods plant, and Stone’s built behind the store and post piano case factory. After the Civil office in Erving Center. The Town War, Ervingside became an was incorporated in 1838. economic hub with manufacturing Agriculture was a major indus- at the Millers Falls Tool Company try only on the western edge of (1868) and by1870, the town’s town, where soils were comprised total population was five hundred of glacial floodplain and lake de- seventy-nine (579). posits. Also, Erving practiced sub- During the Late Industrial stantial lumbering activity to Period (1870-1915), the growing support its woodworking dominance of furniture centers in industries; five sawmills were in nearby Orange and Gardner use by 1830. provided competition and probably In 1810, records show one the impetus to change from hundred sixty (160) people – the furniture to paper mills in Erving. least populated town in the In 1883, a new mill opened at County. In 1830, with four Farley, on the Wendell side of the hundred eighty-eight (488) Millers River, and stimulated residents, Erving ranked second residential growth north of the smallest. river. In Erving Center, civic and During the Early Industrial commercial activities focused Period (1830-1870) Erving’s along the Mohawk Trail, population and economy grew as residential growth extended north railroad construction brought new along Keyup Brook, and industrial commerce and inhabitants to town. activities extended towards the east East-west routes expanded with the near the former Stone Piano Case arrival of the Vermont and Works (now Stoneville) with the Massachusetts Railroad in 1848, Erving Paper Mill (1902). Eight and the creation of a rail depot in years later, the Erving Paper Erving Center. In 1850 the Company expanded the Stoneville Vermont and Massachusetts mill with a brick addition. The Railroad extended its service to Washburn & Heywood Chair Northfield, and in 1867, hooked Company was the dominant firm into the New London and in the dwindling furniture industry. Northeastern Railroad, which came For the period, commercial north from Amherst and hooked in construction included the Stick to the Vermont and Massachusetts Style railroad depot and an line. Italianate store in Erving and the The opening of the railroad Millers Falls Company (1870), a stimulated industrial expansion at large mill, was built in Ervingside. Erving Center, including Erving’s population grew by one Washburn’s pail factory (1844). hundred and two percent (102%),

90 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield the fourth highest rate in the County. Most of the growth occurred in the first five years in Ervingside, and in the final fifteen years near the new paper mills at Stoneville and Ervingside. The Early Modern Period (1915-1940) saw changes in transportation as highway improvements were made for the benefit of local and tourist automobile traffic. The east-west Mohawk Trail became Route 2 from Athol to Greenfield. It included a bypass around Ervingside via new concrete bridges over Route 63 and the New England Central Railroad and the “monumental” Art Deco-style French King Bridge (1931) across the Connecticut River. The north- Erving Center is located Freight Depot south highway through Ervingside directly on Route 2 west of became U.S. Route 63. Orange. An historic freight house, Civic and commercial which was built between 1851 and activities remained in Erving 1875, and later was restored, is Center and expanded along the located in Erving Center. Its Mohawk Trail tourist highway owners sell antiques, curios, and including several restaurants and a operate a deli with coffee, concrete block garage near the sandwiches and ice cream. French King Bridge. During the Next to the freight house, there period, Farley gradually declined is a small passenger depot which and upland recreational cottages at was built in 1898 by the Vermont Laurel Lake were built in the and Massachusetts Railroad and 1920s. last used for passengers in 1959. Erving grew by fourteen The depot had long been the percent (14%), the third highest Whistle Stop Restaurant, but is growth in the County. Most of the currently the Box Car Restaurant. growth was associated with paper The earliest surviving mill expansion. By 1940, the residences in Erving date from the Town’s population totaled one Early Industrial Period. Erving thousand three hundred twenty- Center still contains a number of eight (1,328). Greek Revival and Italianate cottages, and one Gothic Revival Significant Architecture and house with board and batten siding Historic Sites in Erving on the hill above the village center In Erving, the Erving Paper along Prospect and Highland Company (1909) is located in a Streets and Flagg Hill Road. Of large mill building south of Route the several churches only the 2 on Papermill Road next to the Erving United Church of Christ Millers River. (1842), a Greek Revival structure

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 91 TABLE 5-3 National Register of Historic Places in the Erving Study Area Name of Feature Location Date Built Erving United Church of Christ 2 East Main St 1842 B & M Railroad Freight House Main Street 1851 - 1875 V & M Railroad Station and Waiting Room Main Street 1898 Erving Paper Company Business Office Main Street 1870 Erving Town Hall and Fire Station East Main Street 1927

still stands near the Mohawk Trail across the Millers River to drive in Erving Center. through the villages of Millers In Farley, there is a cluster of Falls and Turners Falls to residential vernacular architecture. Greenfield. Each drive presents a On Bridge Street, visitors will find mix of scenery and architecture. an iron-truss bridge that crosses On Route 2 through Gill, the Millers River to the Town of travelers will see spectacular views Wendell (1889). The houses that as they cross the Art Deco French are located in Ervingside date after King Bridge (1932) high above the 1850 and are Italianate structures. confluence of the Connecticut and Of special note is an asymmetrical Millers Rivers. It is possible to Italianate villa. experience the grandeur of the Most of the historic residences French King Bridge from two in Ervingside and Farley, as well different perspectives. One can as many in Erving Center and walk out on the bridge and view Stoneville where Erving Paper is the Connecticut River below with located, date from the Late Vermont and in Industrial Period (1870-1915). the distance or take a boat ride on The majority of the structures are the “Quinnetuket II” that departs Queen Anne or Stick-style from the Northfield Mountain workers’ houses built before 1900. Recreational and Environmental Of special note in Farley are three Center off Route 63 in Northfield. substantial homes from the 1890s, one Queen Anne style, the other Wendell Colonial Revival. Also, of special The Town of Wendell is named for interest is the wide range of a Judge Oliver Wendell (1733- housing types in Ervingside, 1818) of Boston and was including a few Stick Style and incorporated in May 1781. Colonial Revival homes, several Wendell’s 31.6 square miles are Queen Anne houses, and simple dominated by a complex of side hall workers’ cottages. moderate to rugged uplands that At Ervingside, travelers have create a dramatic backdrop for the the option of following the Scenic Mohawk Trail. The undulating Byway across the French King hills for the most part are forested Bridge across the Connecticut and depending on the season River into Gill and then onto provide travelers with views of Greenfield, or taking the original gorgeous spring mountain laurel, roadway of the Mohawk Trail deep greens and hazy blue summer

92 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield vistas, vivid fall colors, or Town of Montague3 wondrous white winter landscapes. The Town of Montague is nestled The Mohawk Trail barely to the south of an enormous passes through Wendell at Wendell irregular bend of the Connecticut Depot, and then parallels the River. Gill is to its north and Millers River in Erving. The Greenfield to its west across “New Millers River is the Wendell/ England’s largest River.” The Erving town line. Most of the long town’s landscape includes a scenic views travelers see looking combination of rolling hills, fertile south from the Trail are of farmland, and five villages. Two Wendell’s forested uplands. of the villages, Turners Falls and Millers Falls, are located on the Montague Connecticut and Millers Rivers, Until the 1930s, when Route 2 was respectively, and are within the re-routed over the newly Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway constructed French King Bridge corridor. Each has a long history between Erving and Gill, as a mill town. Montague was at the heart of the Today, Montague has a Mohawk Trail. The roadway population of 8,470 with the traversed northern Montague majority of residents living in passing through the villages of Turners Falls and Millers Falls. Millers and Turners Falls. It was The Town is conveniently located the primary mode of transportation near the major transportation (until the railroad) for all routes of the Mohawk Trail manufactured goods produced in (Route 2) and Interstate 91 and is the two mill villages. served by the Turners Falls Travelers wended their way Municipal Airport. Montague through Ervingside on Prospect, prides itself on a lively arts Moore and Lester Streets across community. The Town was the Millers River on Bridge Street, incorporated in 1754. down Main Street in Millers Falls, Given the excellent fishing along Millers Falls Road to the opportunities offered by the center of Turners Falls at 3rd Street Connecticut and Millers Rivers as and Avenue A, and then east on 3rd well as the hunting resources of the Street over the power and Montague Plains and surrounding Connecticut River to Greenfield woodlands, it is believed the Town via a bridge onto Turners Falls of Montague was the site of Road to High Street. (The bridge extensive Native American settlements. over the Connecticut was a th suspension bridge known as the Until the late 17 century, White Bridge. It was replaced large numbers of Native American after the 1936 Flood by the people congregated at the falls on “temporary” bridge we still use the Connecticut River, at the native today.) All along the way they stopped to enjoy meals, find 3. Much of the text is a condensed lodging, view the massive mill version of the history of Montague developed from the Town of buildings, and take in the historic Montague website and the architecture of each village. Reconnaissance Study of the Massachusetts Historical Commission.

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 93 village known as Peskeomskut, With the decline of industry in and at Millers Falls during the the latter half of the 20th century annual spring spawning runs of came the increase of residential salmon and shad. and suburban growth, particularly Europeans came to Montague in the five villages. Industrial in the early 18th century and settled development in the 1990s was in Montague Center, the oldest of concentrated within the Airport the Town’s five villages. They Industrial Park located between farmed its surrounding river Turners and Millers Falls. lowlands. Lumbering was also a Revitalization efforts in part of the economy with the Turners Falls began in the 1980s, Sawmill River powering the mills. with restoration of the streetscape About a dozen buildings survive and planning for the development from this period, most notably the of the Great Falls Discovery Root Tavern on Old Sunderland Center. Farming and forestry are Road, built in 1739. At the time of still widely practiced in Montague, the American Revolution, there and the rivers that once provided were 575 residents of Montague. power for industry continue to play Steady growth continued an important economic function throughout the 19th and into the through recreational activities and early 20th centuries, with the tourism. population of the Town of Montague reaching 7,925 in 1915. Millers Falls The Turners Falls Company began Initially known as “Grout’s generating hydroelectric power in Corner,” the Village of Millers 1904 and went on to construct the Falls was founded in the early Cabot Station hydroelectric plant 1800’s as a farm community by in 1915, which is still in operation Martin Grout. The village today. In 1936, the Town acquired developed and prospered in the and expanded the existing private mid to late nineteenth century due airport on 185 acres on the original to its strategic location on the Mohawk Trail, making it the Mohawk Trail, at the juncture of largest airport in the state at the major railroads and near to cheap time (Turners Falls Observer, hydropower provided by the Powers Blocks January 19; 1962). Millers River, which fostered the growth of industry including the Millers Falls Tools Company and the Millers Falls Paper Company. The architectural character of downtown Millers Falls is largely defined by the rebuilding campaign that followed the “great fire of 1895.” Fire destroyed all but one of the buildings on Main Street. The commercial and industrial community implemented an immediate recovery by rebuilding the commercial center of Millers Falls. Today, most of the historic structures on Main and

94 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Bridge Streets are of the late women and children were Victorian period, reflecting the slaughtered in their beds or post fire building campaign. drowned in the river while trying One example of this to escape. It is believed that few architectural heritage is the Ward Native Americans lived in Block, described as “the best Montague after this time (Pressey; example of a wood framed 1910). Victorian Mansard building in The area by the falls was town and a focal point of Millers shared by the Pocumtuck Falls.” Others are the Equi and Confederacy, the Mohawks,the Powers Blocks. Narragansetts, the Nipmucs, the Millers Falls is surrounded and Wampanoag, and the Wabanaki embraced by hills. There are tribes because of the abundance of narrow side streets are defined by fish – in particular salmon and stone walls and close-knit shad spawning in the spring. In neighborhoods, which include recognition of the tragic nature of many late Victorian style homes the massacre, the Town of with “gingerbread” detailing, Montague, as part of its 250th church steeples and the Millers anniversary, joined with River which forms the village’s representatives of various Native northern boundary American tribes on May 19, 2004 Although Millers Falls has in a Reconciliation Day ceremony. experienced a long period of In 1865, John Alvah Crocker economic decline following the purchased the Upper Locks and departure of the traditional Canal Company and began the industries, it is currently creation of Turners Falls as a undergoing a revitalization. The planned industrial community. He community effort focuses on built the power canal and dam on upgrading the physical elements in the Connecticut River and the village – the commercial marketed both industrial and home streetscape and restoration of sites in the village. historic facades. Most important Avenue A was laid out as a to the Millers Falls revitalization wide commercial street flanked by are the contributions of community narrower streets designed to residents in annual beautification accommodate housing for mill campaigns and special events that workers. Almost all of the bring the community together and architecturally significant attract tourists traveling along the buildings in Turners Falls date Mohawk Trail. from the late 19th Century, including the Keith Paper Mill Turners Falls (1871), Colle Opera House (1874), The largest of five villages, Crocker Bank Building (1880), Turners Falls derives its name Esleeck Manufacturing (1895), and from a massacre in Gill that several churches. occurred on May 19, 1676. Although Turners Falls never Captain William Turner, quite experienced the scale of accompanied by 150 men, development envisioned by descended upon an Indian Crocker, it grew significantly and encampment at the falls. Between prospered well into the 20th two and three hundred men, century. In one industrial

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 95

The late 19th century also saw growth and change in the downtown area, as commercial enterprises, as well as entertainment and social institutions developed. Commercial buildings were erected during the 1870’s and 1880’s, and consisted largely of three and four story brick buildings with storefront entrances at grade and professional offices and tradesmen housed on the upper floors. Downtown Turners Falls was a vibrant place at the turn of the century. From 1895-1934 an electric trolley ran up Avenue A on its route from Greenfield to Montague Mills along the Connecticut River and Millers Falls. The Grand promotion, prepared by the Trunk Hotel was among the most Turners Falls Board of Trade, prominent buildings on Avenue A. Turners Falls was referred to as the There were taverns, as well as the home of the white coal Colle Opera House, which was (hydropower). built in 1874 and served as a During the period 1868 - 1897, vaudeville theater seating 1,000 several mill developers were people. As the endpoint of log attracted by the cheap power drives down the Connecticut available in Turners Falls. The River, Turners Falls also earned most notable was the John Russell notoriety as a frontier town, where Cutlery Company (1868), then the lumbermen celebrated, drinking largest cutlery company in and brawling at one of the many America. Best known for its taverns and bars. production of the Bowie Knife, the Cutlery employed 1,200 people at its peak. Other industries that figured prominently in the early development of Turners Falls were the Montague (1871), Keith (1871), Turners Falls (1897) and Marshall (1895) paper companies, the Turners Falls Cotton Mill (1874) and Turners Falls Power Company (1885), the forerunner of Western Massachusetts Electric Company and FirstLight Power Resources.

Gill Montague Bridge and Dam

96 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Today, many outstanding examples of late 19th century architecture survive in the Turners Falls Historic District which is listed on the National Historic Register. The Town of Montague has also made a concerted effort to preserve the village’s architectural heritage as part of its on-going revitalization effort. Prime examples of the preservation focus include the adaptive reuse of the Colle Opera House building and the restoration of the Cutlery Block and Crocker Building. These current projects build on earlier successful restoration efforts of the Shea Theater and Great Falls Discovery Center. These efforts have Colle Opera House – 1874 preserved Turners Falls and Byway and contribute extensively contribute to the cohesive to the historic and scenic nature of character and architectural the drive that people experience integrity of this late nineteenth Driving through Millers Falls century New England industrial on the historic Mohawk Trail, one village. exits Route 2 onto Route 63 encountering the residential Significant Architecture and neighborhood of Ervingside and Historic Sites along the Original following the road across the Mohawk Trail Millers River (Bridge Street) to As an alternate experience, “downtown” Millers Ralls motorists can drive the original Bridge and Main Streets have Mohawk Trail through Ervingside, recently been landscaped and across the Millers River to Millers repaved. The new streetscape Falls, following Millers Falls Road emphasizes the historic to the Village of Turners Falls architecture of the commercial along 3rd Street and across the center, while the large trees lining Connecticut River on Canal Street the roadway add to the village’s and Turners Falls Road to the rural quality and neighborhood. intersection with Route 2A/High Further along Route 63, the Street. historic Mohawk Trail follows Originally, the Mohawk Trail Millers Falls Road. It travels west ran through the Villages of Millers uphill to the area of pitch pine Falls and Turners Falls. The two forests and grasslands. The road communities were bypassed once skirts the Montague Plains Route 2 was constructed and Wildlife Management Area to the became the “new” Scenic Byway. south and the Turners Falls Airport A good portion of each village in the north. falls within the half-mile wide As the traveler nears Turners corridor south of the Scenic Falls, the road wends its way

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 97 through a residential area, and then descends a hill that with many large historic homes that overlook the Connecticut River below. Near the bottom of the hill, the historic Trail follows 3rd Avenue where historic mill housing can be seen. Third Avenue crosses Avenue A, which is Turners Falls' main street and downtown commercial area. The village is a quintessential New England hamlet full of historic buildings – Crocker Bank Building – 1880 row houses, theaters and opera houses, quaint storefronts, Gill churches and hotels. Gill lies north of the irregular bend Today, the village is going of the Connecticut River across through a renaissance of sorts as from Montague. Fall River artists and restaurants have begun separates Gill from Greenfield and to move to the area and to restore the French King Bridge is the the buildings. Also, the town’s eastern gateway from Commonwealth has restored the Erving. mill complex at the southern end Originally part of the Deerfield of the Gill-Montague Bridge for grant, Gill was incorporated in the Great Falls Discovery Center, 1793. The town is named in honor which is operated in conjunction of Moses Gill, a member of the with the US Fish and Wildlife Massachusetts Executive Council, Served. The Center tells the story who became Lieutenant Governor of the Connecticut River. rd in 1794 and Acting Governor in Further along 3 Avenue the 1799 when Governor Increase historic Mohawk Trail travels Sumner died. Gill died in 1800, across the Connecticut River, first leaving the state without a crossing the power canal, near the governor for the first and only time Esleek Paper Mill complex and in its history. then over the bridge to Greenfield.

Great Falls Discovery Center – Russell Cutlery 1870. Montague Town Hall – Russell Cutlery 1870.

98 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield TABLE 5-7 National Register of Historic Places in the Turners Falls Study Area Designation Name of Feature Location Date Built NRDIS (5/10/1982) Turners Falls National Historic District Russell Cutlery Avenue A 1870 NRDIS Keith Paper Mill Canal St 1877 Colle Opera House Avenue A 1874 NRDIS; Preserv. Crocker Bank Block 52-54 Avenue A 1880 Restri. (11/23/1998) NRDIS Esleeck Paper Manufacturing Co. Mill Canal St 1896 NRDIS Turners Falls Power Company Canal St 1885 NRDIS Russell Cutlery Factory – Great Falls Discovery Center and Montague Avenue A 1870 Town Hall Buildings Avenue A 1870 NRDIS Gill Montague Bridge Avenue A 1937 NRDIS Shea Theater Avenue A 1927

The town is on the eastern Gill was an important north periphery of the Greenfield south junction of regional Native highlands at critical juncture of American trails in the Connecticut Connecticut River which was an River Valley. Trails led to fishing important native fishing area at grounds at Turners Falls and Riverside north of Turners Falls. Barton Cove in Riverside. Gill also encompasses Barton Occupation probably concentrated Cove and a portion of the on the Connecticut River Connecticut River known as the floodplain in the general vicinity Narrows. These recreation areas of Riverside village. are within the Mohawk Trail The Mohawk attack of corridor. Pocumtuck settlements in 1664 The Mohawk Trail traverses resulted in the destruction of a southern Gill as it parallels the number of villages including that Connecticut River. Riverside was of Peskeomskut which reputedly developed as the “suburban” was located on both sides of the district of Turners Falls after Civil Connecticut River floodplain in the War. Two Art Deco bridges cross vicinity of Turners Falls. the Connecticut River – the Gill- Colonial settlement was Montague Bridge connects scattered and short-term. At least Riverside to Turners Falls; the two homes were established prior French King Bridge to Erving. to the outbreak of King Philips' Gill appears to have been one War (1675). They were reputedly of the most heavily populated erected on two separate lowland areas in the Connecticut River locations situated on the Mohawk Valley. The local native Trail in Riverside and near the population, most likely affiliated southern end of River Road. Both with the Pocumtucks, was centered were abandoned after the war. in Deerfield in the 17th century.

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 99 During the Colonial Period hat production probably begun in (1675-1775), native villages were the late 1820's. The town was situated on the present sites of the noted for its rich grazing and villages of Turners Falls and tillage soils, early on developing a Riverside in 1675 and 1676. reputation for corn and rye crops. Riverside was the site of a native Excess production was sent defensive palisade reputedly overland to Boston via the situated on Fort Hill. Most of this Mohawk Trail or to other river population was killed or dispersed towns to the south. in the course of the colonial attacks During the Early Industrial on the Pocumtucks in 1676. Period (1830-1870), Main Road However, substantial permanent continued as the primary road to colonial settlement did not take Gill Center from Turner Falls place until ca.1776. while Connecticut River ferries West Gill Road remained as provided transportation to primary north-south regional route Northfield. No railroads were ever from Greenfield with an alternate constructed through the town. loop to Grassy Hill and Gill’s population slowly Connecticut Valley as Main Road declined, reaching a low point of from Turners Falls. 635 in 1865. The heart of town Native occupants sustained was Gill Center, although the themselves with fish caught at development of Turners Falls Turners Falls, crops grown on (1867) led to the establishment of floodplain agricultural plots, Riverside across the Connecticut hunting and captured colonial River in Gill. livestock. Colonial residents The economy remained almost probably maintained economic entirely agricultural. Benjamin pursuits in crops, lumbering and Barton is reputed to have made hunting. experiments in raising silk cocoons Colonial settlement of Gill in the early 1830's. A small began in earnest during the Federal tannery (employed two men), Period (1775-1830). A meeting woodenware shops (employed house was established at Gill three), and the home production of Center (1794) and secondary palm leaf hats (180 women) were connector roads were built to West also important. In 1865, Gill led Gill and Bernardston. Other the county in butter production. highways of the period included A suspension bridge was improvement of Main Road as the constructed in 1878 over the primary axis to Turners Falls with Connecticut River between Mountain Road around Mt. Pisgah Turners Falls and Riverside, while and Barney Hale Road to Barton the ferries continued to operate to Cove. Connecticut River ferries and from Northfield and Gill were operated to Northfield from during the Late Industrial Period River Road (Stratton’s Ferry) and (1870-1915). Otter Run meadows. By 1830, the As a result of the development population reached 864. of Riverside and the Mount Gill’s economy was Hermon School, Gill was one of agricultural with small saw and the few towns in the county to grist mills established on Fall report a rising population. The River and Dry Brook. Palm leaf town reached a high of 1,082 in

100 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Gill-Montague Bridge entry from the Gill side of the Connecticut River

1895. After 1895, however, this founding of the Mount Hermon advance stopped, and by 1915 the School in 1881 increased the number of residents stood at only town's population and opened up a 951. new market for farm and dairy Several factors gave Gill an products. The whole place, the economic boost in the Late Greenfield Gazette noted in 1892, Industrial Period. In the 1860s, "bids fair to become quite popular with the re-establishment of the as a resort of city people." Connecticut River log drives, Holmes, Wood & Co. established a The most significant new sawmill at Riverside which five development of the period years later were incorporated as occurred at Riverside, which began the Turners Falls Lumber to be built up as a suburb of Company. Turners Falls. Houses and In the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, cottages in the Italianate, Stick and the Turners Falls Company was Queen Anne styles began to be established and, like Holyoke, the built in 1870's and 80's. Village of Turners Falls was laid Development at Riverside out as a planned manufacturing continued through the end of the city. With the completion of a period, with Colonial Revival suspension bridge connecting houses in the 1890s and after the Turners Falls and Riverside in turn of the century. The only 1878, Riverside rapidly grew into commercial building erected in the favor among the businessmen of town was an Italianate/Queen Turners Falls as a place of Anne store (ca. 1875) at Gill residences. At the same time, Center. Turners Falls became an important During the Early Modern market for Gill farm and dairy Period (1915-1930), there were products. In 1880, Gill was fifth in significant improvements of the the county in egg production. The east-west corridor from Greenfield

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 101 TABLE 5-4 National Register of Historic Places in the Gill Study Area Designation Name of Feature Location Date Built George Howland Tavern - Old Red House French King Highway 1760 Turners Falls Lumber Company Office 17 Riverview Drive 1872 Johnson, Curtis House 25 Riverview Drive 1869 NRDIS (5/10/1982) Turners Falls Historic District Gill Montague Bridge Avenue A 1937 NRDIS (7/9/1975) Riverside Archaeological District

to Boston with improvements to Merit for the most beautiful steel Route 2 and the Mohawk Trail bridge in its category. bypass around Turners Falls (1931). This included two Art Significant Architecture and Deco concrete and steel bridges, Historic Sites in Gill one over the Connecticut over Mostly woodlands and farms can French King Gorge and at Turners be seen along Route 2 through Falls Dam, and a short span over Gill. However, the community of Fall River. The suspension bridge Riverside has a number of was destroyed in the early 1940s significant historic homes that are when it was disassemble and sold enjoyable to find. Probably the for scrap during World War II most wonderful is the panoramic (built by Robling Company). view that motorists see of Turners Gill’s population hovered in Falls across the Connecticut River the 900's during the Early Modern by traveling along Route 2, period. Riverside remained a crossing the historic Gill- suburb of Turners Falls with Montague Bridge to the village, or commercial development stopping at the pull-off on the associated with the Mohawk Trail south side of the Byway to see the (Route 2). Gill Center remained Connecticut River, dam, canal, the town’s civic focus. Mount bridge and village in one sweeping Hermon campus continued to grow vista. In spring, the falls over the and dairy and truck farming dam are spectacular. prevailed. Approximately a dozen houses Very little residential of the Federal Period survive in construction occurred in the Gill. Most of these are capes, period. The Slate Library (1921) a reflecting Gill’s late settlement and small concrete block building, was incorporation. The few houses of built at Gill Center. The most the period tend to be located in the spectacular and sole identified northern half of the town, with artifact of Gill’s engineering and examples noted on Main Road at industrial history is the French Gill Center, Grassy and Barnard King Bridge, completed in 1932 as Hills and Mount Hermon. Most part of the Route 2 improvements. houses were built later than 1800, At its completion it was awarded if not after 1825. The finest house the American Institute of Steel of the period is a gable-front side- Construction Annual Award in hall plan at Gill Center, ca. 1825.

102 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield Gill retains its original Native American population meetinghouse (begun in 1795 and throughout the Plantation Period completed in 1805). The present (1620-1675). Native American Greek Revival appearance of the trails that crossed the area were meetinghouse dates from an 1848 improved as regional remodeling in which a two stage transportation routes. The local belfry and spire were added. Other Native Americans traded with the institutional activity included the colonial residents in Deerfield, and organization of a Methodist society participated in the English fur in 1803, with a meetinghouse trade network that had been (demolished) built in 1826 at Gill established by William Pynchon of Center, and the construction of the Springfield in the late 1630s. With first schoolhouse in 1793. Three the improvement of trails and schoolhouses stood in the town in trade, however, the epidemics that 1830 struck the lower valley Native American settlements in the late Greenfield 1610s and mid 1630s are believed Like Athol, the Mohawk Trail to have resulted in sizeable Scenic Byway East begins or ends, population losses in Greenfield. depending on travel direction, at Originally, Greenfield was part the rotary located at the of the 8,000 acre Deerfield land intersections of Route 2, Route 2A grant, which at that time was and Interstate 91 in Greenfield. considered to be the northern Historically, the Town of frontier. During the Colonial Greenfield has been the regional Period (1675-1775) the Native economic center for Franklin American population declined County due to its location south to dramatically. The main economic north between Northampton, pursuit of the local settlers was Massachusetts, and Brattleboro, crop and livestock production. Vermont, and east to west between Colonial agriculture was Boston and North Adams, concentrated in the fertile Massachusetts. lowlands. Greenfield’s role as a terminus The boundaries of the town midway along the entire Scenic were established between 1753 and Byway (Athol to North Adams) 1793 when Greenfield was set off strongly influenced the from Deerfield and Gill was set off development occurring along the from Greenfield. The Town was Byway as it became the major incorporated in 1775. economic center for Franklin During the Federal Period County. (1775-1830), Greenfield grew with As early as the Contact Period the expansion of manufacturing (1500-1620), Greenfield was at the that developed and thrived along crossroads for numerous Native the Green River. The area of American travel routes. The Greenfield known as Cheapside existence of an abundance of river (added from Deerfield in 1896 and and agricultural resources suggests named after its river port that there were extensive Native counterpart in London) became a American settlements in the area. terminus for river shipping in The Greenfield area continued 1802. It was a major distribution to be occupied by a substantial point for cloth, molasses, rum, tea,

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 103 and sugar, as well as manufactured ascend. The eastern section of the goods, particularly for the metal original Mohawk Trail between industry and edged cutting tools. Athol and Greenfield followed The J. Russell Company, the first local roads and the Fifth factory in America to mechanize Massachusetts Turnpike which ran hand-processes in the production north of the Millers River through of fine cutlery, was constructed Orange and Erving, crossed the here. Between 1776 and 1790 Millers River at Ervingside and Greenfield’s population doubled to Millers Falls, traversed northern 1,498, exceeding that of Deerfield. Montague passing through Turners In 1846, significant Falls, and crossed the Connecticut improvements to the north-south River to enter Greenfield via rail corridor changed the focus of Turners Falls Road. the economy in Greenfield. Its Greenfield’s industries population grew by 133% during boomed during the 1915-1920 war the Early Industrial Period (1830- years. The postwar depression 1870). In 1855, Greenfield had the took its toll, and population growth highest foreign-born population of came to a sudden halt. Between any town in Franklin County. 1925 and 1935, the population Greenfield’s population also grew made modest gains. The economic during the Late Industrial Period base of the town continued to grow (1870-1915) as the railroad system during this period led by continued to expand. Greenfield Tap and Die. Precision Greenfield developed a toolmakers and machine shops did prominence in the tap and die well. Wooden products also industry, which would, by the remained a major Greenfield early 20th century give the town staple. It was the headquarters for worldwide fame. The completion the New England Box Company; of the Hoosac Tunnel in 1876 the Rugg Manufacturing Company dramatically increased rail traffic was the nation’s largest maker of and prosperity in Greenfield by wooden hay rakes, and Charles R. establishing a rail line from Field Company which made Fitchburg to Albany via a branch wooden baby carriage parts. of the Vermont and Massachusetts Greenfield’s location along a Railroad, which was built in 1851. number of major transportation In 1880, a new rail yard was routes, particularly the Mohawk constructed in East Deerfield, Trail, helped it to become an which further increased traffic. At important town for manufacturing. the junction of the Vermont and In the early 1930s, the Byway was Massachusetts, Connecticut River, re-routed around Montague when Turners Falls Branch, and New the French King Bridge was built Haven and Northampton railroads, (1932) and Route 2 was Greenfield became the northern constructed through Gill and did hub of the Connecticut Valley. not bypassing downtown Rail and streetcar service was Greenfield. High and Main Streets the dominant mode of no longer were the principal route transportation until the early 1900s for through traffic on the Trail. In when the primary east-west travel 1963, Interstate 91 was corridor, Route 2, was improved constructed. and the automobile began to

104 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield View of Greenfield from Poets Seat.

Significant Architecture and now a senior housing residence Historic Sites in Greenfield and is surrounded by historic As motorists cross the Fall River homes and neighborhoods on both bridge into the Town of sides of High Street. Structures Greenfield, the small community located in this area are part of the of Factory Hollow is to the north High and East Main Street Historic of Route 2. Historic factory District. housing and remnants of a dam As the oldest reinforced and mill on the Fall River can be concrete building in seen (two cottages from the 1820s Massachusetts, the Weldon Hotel are visible from the Trail). Further west, the Mohawk Trail follows Route 2A into downtown Greenfield, Franklin County’s largest community and County Seat. Route 2A/High Street parallel a ridge that separates downtown Greenfield from the Connecticut River to the east and includes Poet Seat Tower and Highland Park. The High Street Cemetery, established in 1768, is at the corner of High and Silver Streets. Beyond the more commercial section of High Street, motorists will find large historic homes and the Weldon Hotel, which was built in 1905 to accommodate travelers on the Mohawk Trail. The Hotel is The Weldon Hotel – 1905

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 105 Main Street looking east

is architecturally significant and is churches, a post office, courthouse, listed on the Massachusetts and fire station, Greenfield Public National Historical Registers. Library once Leavitt-Hovey house Also, the Hotel and marks the (designed by Asher Benjamin and beginning/ending of the East Main/ built in 1798), movie theater, town High Street National Register common, and commercial District. buildings line the thoroughfare, At the intersection of High, which is part of the Main Street Crescent and Main Streets, the Historic District. Mohawk Trail takes a right Buildings of particular note on following Route 2A and Main Main Street and around the Town Street through downtown Common at the intersection of Greenfield, a quintessential New Main Street and Bank Row England streetscape. Historic include: one of Asher Benjamin's homes with professional offices, earliest commissions, the Coleman Greenfield Town Common at Court Square

106 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield TABLE 5-5 National Register of Historic Places in the Greenfield Study Area Designation Name of Feature Location Date Built Obed Hastings House 17 Factory Hollow Road 1700 Factory Hollow Mill Bell Tower 12 Factory Hollow Road 1830 NRDIS (10/13/1988) East Main - High Street Historic District Weldon Hotel 54 High St 1905 NRDIS (10/13/1988) Town Common/Main Street William Coleman - J. H. Hollister House 36 Bank Row 1797 First Franklin County Courthouse 15 Bank Row 1813 Pond, Frank A. Block 19-21 Bank Row 1874 First National Bank and Trust Co. 9 Bank Row 1929 Town Hall Court Square 1848 NRDIS (10/13/1988) Main Street Historic District Garden Theater Block 353-367 Main St 1928 Leavitt - Hovey House 402 Main St 1797 Second Greenfield Fire Station 412 Main St 1936 Allen Corner Block 351 Main St 1827 Greenfield Masonic Block 375 Main St 1896 U.S. Post Office - Greenfield Main Branch 442 Main St 1916

House (1797, 36 Bank Row); the Historic first Franklin County Courthouse (1813, 15 Bank Row); and the Preservation Tools First National Bank of Greenfield (1929, 9 Bank Row), which is Massachusetts Historical being restored by the Franklin County Community Development Commission Support Corporation. and Resources Encircling the Town Common The Massachusetts Historical are the first County Courthouse Commission conducts a program (1813), First National Bank of called "On the Road" which is Greenfield (1929), Town Hall designed to assist local historical (Second Court House, 1848), and commissions and local historic Coleman House (1797). district commissions. The Today, the Common hosts Massachusetts Historical many activities – a farmers market, Commission’s Director of Local a monthly antique car display in Government Programs is available the summer, and political rallies. to visit communities, discuss local historic preservation issues, and offer ways to resolve problems.

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 107 In addition, the Massachusetts historical commissions are Historical Commission’s established by a vote of the town Preservation through Bylaws and or city government. They serve as Ordinances is a guide for cities local preservation advocates and as and towns that are concerned about an important resource for protecting their historic resources. information about their This guide provides basic community's cultural resources and information on the tools that are preservation activities. available to cities and town for protecting their historic resources. National Register of The guide also details examples Historic Places Listing where each of the tools has been The National Register of Historic successfully implemented. Places documents and records the

nation's important and Massachusetts Circuit irreplaceable buildings, sites, Rider Program structures, objects, and districts The Massachusetts Circuit Rider worthy of protection. It is a listing Program is a partnership of of buildings, structures, sites, Preservation Massachusetts and objects and districts significant in the National Trust for Historic our nation’s history, culture, Preservation. The program architecture or archeology that are provides three part-time worthy of preservation. It is a professionals who are available to federal designation, administered meet with individuals in by the Secretary of the Interior communities across the state who through the Massachusetts are looking for assistance with Historical Commission as the State historic preservation related issues. Historic Preservation office. The Circuit Riders are equipped to Based on local and state surveys, bring the programs, services, nominations to the National knowledge and resources of both Register are generally initiated by Preservation Massachusetts and the local historical commission, the National Trust for Historic which works with MHC staff to Preservation to aid in community prepare the form. Nominations are based preservation activity then reviewed by the MHC State statewide. Contact the Circuit Review Board at a public meeting Riders at circuitrider@ and forwarded to the keeper of the preservationmass.org. National Register for approval. Listing on the National Local Historical Register of Historic Places Commissions recognizes the value of our nation's historical and cultural heritage and Local historical commissions provides a basis for making provide important support and informed planning and assistance to willing private development decisions. A listing property owners. A local historical on the National Register places no commission is the municipal constraints on what owners may do agency responsible for ensuring with their property when using that preservation concerns are private funding. The National considered in community planning Register is not a design review and development decisions. Local program; however, it does provide

108 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield limited protection from state and report is then submitted to the local federal actions. It is also an governing body for approval of the eligibility criterion for matching local historic district ordinance or state and federal restoration and by-law. Once a local historic research grants, as well as certain district is established, a local federal tax benefits for certified historic district commission is rehabilitation projects. appointed to review all applications for exterior changes to State Register of Historic properties within the district. This Places Listing design review process assures that changes to properties will not The State Register of Historic detract from the district's historic Places is a master list of designated character. The review criteria are historic properties in determined by each city and town Massachusetts. It provides an and are specific to each local added measure of protection to historic district. listed properties. Properties are listed on the State Register if they are: listed in or determined eligible Architectural for listing in the National Register Preservation Districts of Historic Places; within local An architectural preservation historic districts; local, state, and district (also referred to as a national landmarks; state neighborhood conservation district archaeological landmarks; or or an architectural conservation properties with preservation district) is a defined area in which restrictions. The State Register additions, major alterations, serves as a guide for developers demolition and new construction and state agencies in order to are reviewed. An architectural determine whether a state funded, preservation district bylaw protects permitted, or licensed project will the overall character of an area by affect historic properties. The State regulating major alterations and Register review process ensures demolitions, and by ensuring that that listed properties will not new construction is completed in inadvertently be harmed by keeping (scale, massing, street activities supported by state pattern, setback and materials) of agencies. the existing buildings. An architectural preservation district is Local Historic Districts an alternative to a local historic A local historic district is district for areas where some established and administered by a alterations have already occurred community to protect the but protection of the overall scale, distinctive characteristics of streetscape and historic buildings important areas, and to encourage is a priority. new structural designs that are compatible with the area's historic Transportation Corridor setting. Prior to the establishment Protection Bylaw of a local historic district, a district study committee is appointed to (Overlay District) conduct a survey of the area and to A transportation corridor prepare a preliminary report for protection bylaw can be a zoning local and state review. A final or a general bylaw that seeks to

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 109 preserve historic and scenic significant building may characteristics of transportation commence. The delay period is corridors. It may be written to intended to provide the local preserve specific features of the community and the building owner roadway corridor. Characteristics with an opportunity to preserve or that are worthy of preservation move the threatened building. may include roadside land uses, While a demolition delay bylaw natural and man-made resources cannot prevent the removal of the along the roadway, curbs, building indefinitely, often this sidewalks, trees and stone walls. process provides an opportunity A transportation corridor for alternatives to be fully protection bylaw can be tailored to explored. The demolition delay the needs of the community. It bylaw defines the categories of the may operate as an overlay district buildings that are subject to that prohibits certain uses or review. Most communities adopt provides architectural and sign demolition delay bylaws based on standards for a specified area. age such as all buildings 50 or 75 years or older. In addition to age, Scenic Vista Overlay some communities include specific District categories such as all properties listed on the National Register of A scenic vista overlay district Historic Places or State Register of is a zoning bylaw that helps to Historic Places. protect rural and scenic character and viewsheds. A scenic vista overlay district bylaw is limited to Adaptive Reuse Zoning specific areas in a community that Adaptive reuse zoning is have scenic or landscape values adopted to provide new life for worthy of protection. vacant or underutilized historic Communities may want to structures. Generally the existing consider adopting a scenic vista zoning bylaw is amended to overlay district bylaw to allow for expand the allowed uses or the review of the visual impacts allowed densities in certain associated with development such districts in order to provide new as tree removal, buildings, road opportunities for redevelopment. and lighting. In some cases these These zoning amendments provide types of bylaws are written to limit opportunity for the reuse of the scenic protection to specific buildings for which the original elevation or topographical criteria use is not longer economically in order to preserve scenic viable. An example is the reuse of qualities such as mountains, hills vacant or underutilized mill and rolling terrain. These types of buildings, generally zoned for bylaws are sometimes referred to industrial uses, to be rezoned for as hilltop, slope, ridgeline or high commercial, residential or mixed elevation protection bylaws. uses.

Demolition Delay Bylaw Downtown Revitalization A demolition delay bylaw is a Zoning regulation that invokes a delay Downtown revitalization period and a public review before zoning encourages uses, building the demolition of the potentially types and transportation modes

110 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield compatible with historic referred to as an easement or downtown environments. covenant) restricts present and Downtown revitalization zoning is future owners from altering a typically used to promote compact portion of a property or specific development, back lot or off-site feature of a historic building, site parking, mixed use developments, or landscape. The specific pedestrian friendly environments resources to be protected are and dimensional or parking relief. detailed and documented in the In addition, it encourages preservation restriction. rehabilitation of historic buildings Preservation restrictions are by allowing new uses the enabled under Massachusetts dimensional relief necessary to General Law Chapter 184 Sections preserve historically significant 31-34. Preservation restrictions structures. Downtown must be held by a government revitalization zoning can be used agency or non-profit, and can be to enhance economic activity by executed for a specific period of encouraging new businesses to time or in perpetuity. Although, in locate in historic commercial order for the Preservation areas. Restriction to be in perpetuity it must be approved by the town Certified Local (otherwise it is applicable for a Government Program thirty year renewable period). They are recorded at the The Certified Local appropriate Registry of Deeds and Government Program is a unique run with the property when it is partnership that provides a close transferred. The restriction is integration of federal, state, and enforced by the holder. local preservation activities.

Communities that have enacted historic preservation legislation are Tax Credits eligible to apply to the Federal Credits Massachusetts Historical Under the Federal Rehabilitation Commission for certification. By Tax Incentive Program, owners of extending state and federal commercial properties that are programs at the local level, the listed on the National Register or Certified Local Government are within a National Register Program allows communities to Historic District may deduct 20% participate directly in the review of the cost of a major restoration and approval of National Register project on their taxes. Restoration nominations. Certified local must be significant, exceeding the governments are eligible to greater of the adjusted basis of the compete for at least 10 percent of buildings or $5,000, and work can the federal funds allocated to be phased over a five-year period MHC. when there are architect’s drawing and specification prepared for the Preservation Restrictions work. Restoration work must follow the Secretary of the Preservation restrictions can be Interior’s Standards. The program executed to protect historic is administered through the architecture or landscape features Massachusetts Historical from future alterations. A Commission (MHC). A 10% tax Preservation restriction (also

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 111 credit is also available for certified local governments, commercial buildings that are not municipal planning and listed in the National Register but community development offices, were built before 1936. regional planning agencies, state agencies, educational institutions, Massachusetts Historic and private non-profit Rehabilitation Tax Credit organizations. The types of The Massachusetts Historic projects eligible for funding Rehabilitation Tax Credit is a include: the completion of cultural recent addition to the preservation resource inventories; the toolkit. A certified rehabilitation nomination of significant project on an income-producing properties to the National Register property is eligible to receive up to of Historic Places; the completion 20% of the cost of certified of community-wide preservation rehabilitation expenditures in state plans; and the completion of other tax credits. There are restrictions, types of studies, reports, an annual cap, and selection publications and projects that criteria that ensure the funds are relate to the identification and distributed to the projects that protection of significant historic provide the most public benefit. properties and sites. The MHC certifies the projects and allocates available credits. Massachusetts

Preservation Projects Sources of Funding Fund Through the Massachusetts for Preservation Preservation Projects Fund, 50% Projects matching grants are available to qualifying properties listed on the State Register to ensure their Massachusetts Historical physical preservation. These funds Commission Survey and are subject to availability through Planning Grant Program the State Budget process. When available, funding is available for The goal of the Massachusetts the restoration, rehabilitation, Historical Commission’s Survey stabilization, and documentation of and Planning Grant Program is to historic and archaeological support efforts to identify and plan properties owned by municipalities for the protection of the significant or nonprofit organizations. The historic buildings, structures, applicants also have the option of archaeological sites and landscapes applying for up to 75% of the total of the Commonwealth. The project cost if they are willing to program is a federally funded, commit an additional 25% toward reimbursable, 60/40 matching an endowment fund for long-range grant program which supports preservation and maintenance of historic preservation planning the property. The types of projects activities in communities funded under this program range throughout the state. Qualified from the acquisition of an applicants include all local endangered property, to the historical commissions and local restoration of an historic building, historic district commissions, to research projects such as

112 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield historic structures reports, are subject to local comment and archaeological data recovery approval. If residents do not feel projects, or study of innovative the Community Preservation Act is preservation techniques. working as they expected, they can repeal it. “The acquisition and The Community preservation of historic buildings Preservation Act and landscapes” is one of the three core community concerns that the The Community Preservation Act funding from the Community provides an opportunity for local Preservation Act can be used to communities to fund projects address. A minimum of 10% of related to local historic sites. The the annual revenues of the fund Community Preservation Act is must be used for each of the three statewide enabling legislation to core community concerns. The allow cities and towns to exercise remaining 70% can be allocated control over local planning for any combination of the allowed decisions. All of the decisions uses, or for land for recreational related to this program are local. use. This gives each community Communities must vote by ballot the opportunity to determine its to adopt the Community priorities, plan for its future, and Preservation Act. Once adopted have the funds to make those plans the local legislatures must appoint happen. a committee to develop plans for the use of the funds. These plans

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 113 ISSUES AND RECOMMENDATIONS Issues • There are few locations (Great Falls Discovery Center, the Upper Valley Visitor Center, and French King Bridge, Musem of Our Industrial Heritage etc.) along or very near the Byway where the traveling public can access information about the history of the Byway Corridor. • There is no indication along the Byway Corridor of the significance of the route as an historic Native American travel and trade corridor. • Many of the historically important locations along the Byway lack historic markers. Such locations include: the Uptown Common and Athol Center Historic Districts; individual structures in Orange such as the New Home Sewing Machine Company complex; Erving Village Center Historic District; Wendell Town Common Historic District; Millers Falls and Turners Falls Historic Districts; and Factory Hollow in Greenfield. • There is no signage marking the natural (Great Falls area) and cultural (extremely significant fishing area for Native Americans and European Settlers) elements of Turners Falls/Gill area. • There is little information about bridges and historic mill structures for easy public reference. • Few of the private properties from the Auto Touring Era are on the National Register of Historic Places (e.g. Weldon and Pequoig Hotels). • Many of the historic Auto Touring Era structures are in disrepair and not designated for the public view. • Many structures from the Auto Touring Era are in danger of being lost due to a lack of financial viability and the need for repairs. • There are limited preservation programs and financial assistance available to help private, for-profit business owners maintain or restore their historic properties. • The history of the Byway as an auto-touring route has not been documented in a comprehensive manner. • The industrial heritage of the Byway is not highlighted or interpreted. • There are no signage, tourist, or mapping programs that highlight the Byway and its history and promote its communities. • The Byway travels along two of New England’s major rivers – the Millers and Connecticut –through a very scenic rural landscape, and near premier recreational lands, yet no cohesive promotional effort has been made to attract vacationers, tourists and recreationists to the area. • Some historic resources are in need of maintenance to increase their attractiveness to tourists. • Not all of the Towns in the Byway Corridor have active Historical Commissions. In addition, some of the historical data provided by Towns for MHC’s Massachusetts Cultural Resource Information System (MACRIS) is incomplete and out-of-date. Recommendations • Communities should actively work with property owners to identify significant historic structures and develop plans to assist in their restoration and/or preservation. • Sponsor a MHC “On the Road” workshop as a first step to identifying ways to help private property owners and towns maintain historic structures and landscapes. FRCOG could take the lead and sponsor this educational meeting intended to provide information to the Byway communities about tools and methods for preserving their historic resources. The information would be specifically targeted to the Byway communities and would particularly highlight resources for properties that are privately owned. • Construct informational kiosks at strategic locations to make more historical information available to the public. Several issues could be addressed in this manner, including the following: − The significance of Native American to the Byway Corridor as an important route. − Historic information pertinent to specific locations. − Historic information on the Auto Tour Era as pertinent to specific locations. − Information about the industrial development of the Mohawk Trail corridor. • Install individual historic markers at specific significant locations to benefit the public, particularly along the

114 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Eastern Section — Athol to Greenfield following: (markers and signs should be of a uniform nature to allow for consistency throughout the Byway Corridor) − Historic mill sites in Athol, Orange, Erving, Ervingside, Millers Falls, Turners Falls and Greenfield. − Markers on the six historic bridges over the Connecticut and Millers Rivers. − Historically significant cemeteries along the Byway. • Install markers or signs for individual structures if historic significance along the Corridor such as bridges, houses, and cemeteries. Markers and signs should be uniform to allow for consistency throughout the Byway Corridor and with the design used for the Mohawk Trail West. • Implement a plaque program along the Byway in order to recognize the owners of historically significant Byway structures and also to educate the public about the architectural resources along the corridor. • Develop several driving tour guides with different Byway themes − Industrial Era (1800s). − Native American Route. − Auto-Tourism Era (early and mid 1900s). • Help the local Historical Commissions to take the lead in sponsoring an educational meeting for the Massachusetts Historical Commission “On the Road” program. This meeting would provide information to Byway communities about tools and methods for preserving their historic resources. The information would target Byway communities and properties that are privately owned. • Support the implementation of preservation restrictions or conservation restriction on historically significant structures along the Byway. Work with willing land owners to permanently protect important historic resources and landscapes. • Work with Byway communities and property owners to develop new National Register of Historic Places, Districts or Sites or expand existing districts or sites. • Identify potential National Historic District nominees and to develop the information needed for nomination packets and/or set funding needed to complete nomination paperwork. • Work with the Massachusetts Historical Commission to complete an Auto-Touring era architectural survey report for the eastern portion of the Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway • Work with willing property owners to seek grant funding to complete the National Register nomination packages for the properties that are worth of recommendation. • Work to protect and preserve important archaeological sites along the Byway. • Encourage local historical commissions to alert and educate property owners to the federal tax credits that are available for restoration work that occurs on properties listed on the National Register of Historic Places. • Assist private owners to secure grant funding, tax incentive and other financial benefits for historic preservation. • Remind MassHighway to work actively with the Massachusetts Historical Commission and local Historical Commissions to ensure that Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway road projects preserve historic resources. • Towns along the Scenic Byway Corridor should support active Historical Commissions to assist in the documentation and preservation of historical resources. The Commissions should seek grant funding or volunteer assistance to update the historical resource survey sheets for submission to the MHC and inclusion in the MACRIS system. • Encourage local town Historic Commissions to complete inventory forms for all historic properties within the Byway study area.

CHAPTER 3: Archeological & Historic Resources 115